Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4403017.

There are newer versions of this thing here:

Ender 3 & CR10 version    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943125
Ender 5 version    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4945681

Background

Although I really enjoy my Hydra Fan Duct design both my Ender 3 Pros have exclusively 4010 ducts with a Bowden system. I therefore thought they may be better suited with a more Compact Lightweight system that provides some expansion\versatility but keeps the base unit to a reasonable minimum. I have since expanded the concept to use 5015 fans and the ability to mount with the 5015 fans to an Ender 5 (the X axis timing belt needs to be replaced to achieve this on the Ender 5).

Manta Compact Duct System

There is a newer version of this thing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943125

The Manta compact duct system is based on a 3010 Hot End Fan(similar to the V6). For this reason it also incorporated standard and Volcano versions of the V6.

The 3010 fan being smaller can be a little more noisy ( I have used reasonable quality ball bearing fans rather than hydrualic and therefore are quite good) but due to its size it sits above the heater block much closer to the heat sink and therefore hopefully is much more efficient than the stock 4010 cooling fan again like the V6.

There are 2 sets of  work in progress BL Touch brackets for a starter. The first includes integral mounting bosses and slotted mounting plates for both the Stock & V6 versions of the 4010 duct base mounts. Secondly I have included a WIP Fixed Universal bracket for the BL Touch which will work with both 4010 & 5015 fans. I have printed prototypes for these but not as yet installed to confirm mount heights. The universal bracket has its own set of Direct Drive standoffs and WM clips which have been adjusted to take into account the additional bracket depth.

The system includes.

1.Stock & V6 base 4010 & 5015 low profile ducts for the CR10 and Ender 3 (Ender 5 5015 ducts only).
2.Tool Change options including Stock Direct Drive, BMG Direct Drive, Dual Gear Direct Drive and standard Bowden.
3.Easy external face height adjustment of fans up to 6mm.
4.Wire Management\cable Tidy options.
5.Clear viewing window of nozzle whilst printing.
6.Includes V6 Volcano ducts for 5015 fans (8.5 mm taller).
7.I have uploaded a Duct Base comparison chart to offer some explanation. Just in case this does not get updated please check the thing files themselves for available options.

Installation

1.I have also uploaded some basic installation guides for both the stock & the V6 versions. The guides only cover the basics to get started with the system. Please comment or message if you require further information. There are also uploaded images for BL Touch offsets and nozzle dimensions off the build plate.I have also uploaded a step file of the full system if anyone wants to create any derivatives.
2.You will need various M3 hex bolts ranging from 6mm long to 16 mm and some M3 Brass thermal inserts. The quantities of each will vary depending on which parts of the system you adopt. The inserts I used were:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01GO4O0OW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3.The 3010 fans used: 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DB59XP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4.M3 Bolt set Used: 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JNDYL2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5.All parts marked WIP in front of the file name have been printed but not yet installed. I did have one previous comment that the BMG tool head flexed a little due to the small web, this can easily be increased but may interfere with the BMG access hatch.
6.Being a compact system some areas are quite tight therefore greater patience is required with the wire management to reduce cable breakage.
7.For the Ender 5 5015 versions to work you need to replace the X axis drive belt, connecting it with cable ties rather than the exiting cleats to provide clearance for the ducts. I have uploaded an image\explanation of how I achieved this on my Ender 5.
8.I have printed and tested prototype parts for 5 printers including 4010, 5015, stock, V6 and V6 volcano versions with both Bowden & Direct Drive tool heads. Clearly with so many variations I may have missed something on the ones I have not tested but hopefully not anything major.
9.I have undertaken some basic CFD testing with Simscale and have uploaded some images of the results which I have used to optimise the duct designs.
10.When using a Volcano Heater Block you will have to rotate the block by approximately 5 to 10 degrees to clear the lower pulley mount on the mounting plate. I would suggest keeping the heater cables to the existing side of the block also.
11.IF using the Creality dual gear extruder you will need to replace the tension bolt with a bolt with a traditional hexagonal head and use a spanner sidewise to tension in this orientation.
12.The Direct Drive Duct Bases can also be used for a Bowden set up has the RH fixings for the WM Upstand are identical to both base types.

Printing
1.The majority of the parts print without support (the base ducts print upside down) except for the rear duct mounts which unfortunately require some support. I have included some sacrificial layers in some of the holes in the mounts which will need cleaning in addition to the supports.
2.The WM Upstand and Clips will require either a very slow print speed or a raft due to their small footprint.
3.It is suggested that parts be printed in the orientation uploaded.
4.I have included 2 sizes of Wire Management clip but there is also a rib on the inside of each clip which can be shaved if further cable space is required.
5.The ducts print without support on their backs but there is an integral support within the 4010 ducts which will require cleaning off immediately below the lower front fixing boss which needs cleaning off prior to insertion of the 4010 fan (see uploaded image of duct).
6.Printed with White, Blue, Red & Black Amazon Basics PETG on an Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5 and my Hypercube.
7.I have included 2 sizes of clamp for the V6 versions has the tolerance can differ to different filaments and printers. They are very small parts so will not take long to create a test print of each.
8.All the base ducts print upside down do make sure your build plate is clean to provide a neat finish.
9.All parts printed with Amazon Basics PETG with 3 perimeters, 30% infill @30mms.

Update:05\0221

Links to High res images of BLTouch offsets
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oxlwlosd6ghoup2/BLT%20Build%20Plate%20Offsets%20V2%204010.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ne2kw3ogqz9nzx/BLT%20V2%20Bracket%20Offsets.jpg?dl=0

Update:29\09\20 Uploaded Step File for the 5015 V2 Ducts with larger duct apertures.

Update 08\08\20 Uploaded V2 version 5015 ducts for both the V6 Standard & Stock Versions. The V2 versions have a slightly larger duct aperture to allow more air volume with the 5015 fans.

Update 12\07\20 Uploaded a Stock Only BL Touch Bracket which is 3mm shorter than the universal bracket on a members request. This will not fit the V6 versions. Please remember to adjust the offset in your firmware by 3mm if using this part.
WIP BLT Bowden+M3 Sockets V3_Stock Only

Update 01\06\20: Uploaded WIP Universal BL Touch Bracket for both 4010 7 5015 Fans. The Direct Drive Standoffs will require some support. Printed prototypes but not yet installed working BL Touch Height to be confirmed. Also uploaded a revised WM Upstand V3 which a more material around the base to provide a better finish\retention when inserting the M3 thermal insert.

Manta Compact Fan Duct & Tool Change System

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4008436.

Ender 3 CR10S Multi Direct Drive Extruder with Tool Free Adjustment

This thing is more about creating a flexible Direct Drive extruder assembly which allows for relatively easy swapping out of extruder head types and hot end maintenance rather than trying to reinvent the wheel regards producing the perfect fan duct. This is primarily a single 4010 or 5015 fan duct. I have only tested the 5015 duct which seems to work well.

This thing is ideal for those who want to tinker or test various extruder types but does not want to have to rebuild the assembly every time. The thing is also much kinder on to the fan, heater wiring with less continuous change. 

Quick animation of the set up here: https://youtu.be/UpRedjqkhzA

Therefore in this thing I have designed a standard mounting bracket and duct base which accepts a variety of Extruder head types, including a BMG\Clone, Stock Extruder, the Creality dual gear extruder and an optional head for replicating the standard Bowden Tube set up. Each head is located with 4 M3 bolts. The short length of Bowden Tube between the extruder and the hot end may differ slightly depending on the set up.

I have also included a tool free retention knob to the side fan to make height adjustment much easier and quicker. The front fan assembly includes a pivoting fan fascia which allows a little more control in terms of directional air flow and provides the oppurtunity for quick print fan cowl customised add ons. The front assembly can also be pivoted to provide much greater access for hot end maitenance. The pivot control is also tool free with an adjustment knob. I have also found it is useful to be able to focus the front fan air flow on the heater block when wanting to cool it down.

A lot of Direct Drive Extruders have the majority of cables exiting the extruder to the left of the Extruder Head. It therefore seems logical to reroute the heater cartridge & thermistor cables in the same direction to provide much neater cable management.

Therefore this design is based on mirroring the hot end heat block so the heater cartridge and thermistor cables exit to the left leaving the right of the assembly visually clear and giving much greater access for maintenance. To achieve this I inverted the heater block. Counter sinking the holes to make sure the retention screw heads did not conflict with a wrench when changing the nozzle. I also included a washer to the thermistor retention screw to aid retention and trimmed the silicone shoe to adjust for the reorientation. There is more detail in the uploaded Installation Guide.

I generally do not use levelling sensors but have included a fixing detail in each duct and a mounting bracket. The design of these are based on previous designs based on community input. Therefore please treat these has WIP until confirmed acceptable.

Installation

Has mentioned in an earlier paragraph I have uploaded a fairly detailed illustrated guide which also includes a base BOM.

Printing

All parts can be printed without supports if printed in the orientation uploaded. I have also included a break away stability foot to the Bowden Bracket Head part rather than have to include a raft.

All my prototypes were printed in BQ Red, White & Green PLA but would recommend printing in PETG if available. Printed on 2 x Ender 3 Pros and an Ender 5. Uploaded images have been taken with the thing installed on a CR10S.


Ender 3 CR10S Multi Direct Drive Extruder with Tool Free Adjustment

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242.

Hydra Fan Duct & Tool Change System for Ender 3 Ender 5 & CR10

See Below for Updates, V6 Edition Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4253359

Firstly many thanks to AlfaBarion for suggesting such an incredibly clever name for this thing.

This is a Multi Headed beast with ease of hot end access, adjustment and serviceability.

In this thing I have:

1.Designed a system with easy swap out of various types of tool\extruder head without having to replace the duct system (The short length of Bowden tube required may vary dependant on Extruder Head selected).

2.The Hot End can be fully accessed by just removing the front Heat Sink Fan.

3.Cooling Fan Duct height adjustment is front facing and therefore much easier to adjust and access. This also results in a smaller fan duct which can be assembled prior to insertion.

4.I have included multiple cable routes to aid overall wire management.

5.Robust Fan duct design with integrated ratchet system to provide a firm secure fixing detail with no duct vibration.

Water Test Video: https://youtu.be/gS-2Cuk-qaE

Levelling Sensors

iAM_B3nFPS Has created a great centre mounted BL Touch Bracket which fits the Hydra at this link: 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4158695

I do not use any levelling sensors but have included a support bracket for the BLTouch based on members previous comments. This should be treated has WIP until confirmed acceptable.

Installation

I have included in the files two installation guides + BOM for the Ender 3 and Ender 5. The Ender 3 guide should be sufficient for the CR10 & CR10S. I will update these if I can think of any further additions. Please comment if you require any further information or that I have made a mistake.

Printing

1.All parts do not need any supports except for the 4010 fan ducts (small amount of support to reduce duct footprint).

2.The Bowden Cable clip may require a raft due to its small footprint.

3.I have designed in some sacrificial layers above some of the nut sockets in both mounting plates to aid bridging.These will require piercing and cleaning off prior to assembly (refer to the installation guides).

All parts printed in PETG @ 0.2 layer, height, 30%-40% infill and 3 perimeters.

Filament

White - BQ Petg
Red - Amazon Basics Petg
Blue- Prima Select Sky Blue Petg

Links to useful & cool accessories\Remix

1.Junction Box  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062301

2.Spacers\Helpers  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062291

3.Nut Holder     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062284

4.iAM_B3nFPS - Hydra Fan Duct Heat Creeper Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4155280

5.sychr - LED Bar -  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4120567

6.Briefer - Reinforced BMG Head: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4257849

7.Latic - Linear Rail Adapter with "hidden" BL Touch https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4227001/comments/#comment-3388857

8.There is also Shenkoe`s Larger Remix Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4134044

9.Shater`s chain link remix    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4429281/comments

10.Jrows`s Side and Rear Mounts for BLV Ender 3/Pro 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4429898/comments

11.Hairing`s fabulous fan cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628942

12.newsphreak`s Hydra Base Ender 3 V2: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707481

13.Poblopuablo`s adapter for the orbiter extruder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4705904

Update: 23\12\19
1.Increased cable route between front adjustment screws particularly for when using 4010 fans. Uploaded\upgraded both versions of side and rear mounting plate to version V1_2.
2.Included link to Water test Video.

Update: 03\01\20
1.Uploaded additional base units with a revision to allow M3 self tapping brass thread inserts instead as an alternative to the standard pilot holes. If you think you will be removing the front fan frequently locating on a thread rather than wearing a pilot hole will provide greater longevity. All files with thread insert at the end of the label. The inserts are for the front facing fan only and not for all inserts. The majority of fixing are M3 Nyloc based. Link to the inserts used on Amazon UK:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D1L36RM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2.Uploaded a variation of the Bowden Head Plate with a bracket to connect to a cable chain. This part requires some support under the chain shelf. Design based on the following thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749930

3.Also removed one of the cable tie slots on the Ender 5 Rear Base Unit for threaded inserts version due to it potentially being a stress point on the part.

14_01_20 Link to 150mm bridging attempt with a 0.8 mm nozzle on a CR10S.
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwetRuJoFJo

19_01_20 Uploaded a new set of 5015 & 4010 ducts with a reduced duct aperture to focus the air flow. I have not tested these yet (printing now)so please treat has WIP Parts with narrow after the duct type and hand).

30_01_20 Uploaded step file for tool heads + base @ 100mm centres

10\02\20 Uploaded step files for the narrow version duct

05\04\20 Uploaded work in progress files for Base ducts for both Ender 3 & 5 which have all M3 brass inserts rather than M3 Nylocs. I have printed parts but not yet tested on a printer. I would recommend using a M3 tap to clear inserts prior to use. I have also integrated some sacrificial layers on the rear base units which will require cleaning out prior to use. All files named V4_allserts.

Inserts used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PMZCP23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

06\04\20 Uploaded revised all insert files. I have reverted back to the original duct fixings position has the screw heads conflicted with the front fan.  All files named V5_allserts.

08\04\20 Removed Base Duct versions with M3 thermal inserts has the plastic around the duct retention fixings cracked repeatedly under pressure. 

30\04\20 Uploaded WIP revised 5015 & 4010 Narrow Fan Ducts (MK6). The 5015 fans have a 25 & 35 degree variants. The ducts print at 45 degrees (as per uploaded orientation) with a small amount of custom support to aid the nozzle overhang (see uploaded images for this and the recommended position off the build plate).

01\05\20 Uploaded a spacer\helper for the 2 5015 MK6 variants to help setting the nozzle height off the build plate.

05\05\20  Uploaded CFD Analysis images of the Original Narrow & Mk6 5015 Ducts 

04\08\21 Uploaded Duct Base Step File for both Ender 3 & 5 with no thread inserts (original design).

Hydra Fan Duct & Tool Change System for Ender 3 Ender 5  CR10

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4337266.

There is a newer version of this thing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4403017

I have reclassified this as WIP:

1. The tool heads are quite close to the rear pulleys which I need to change.
2. The Clamp for the V6 variants requires some modification.
3. I have now developed a 5015 fan version which requires incorporation.
4. Beta testing an Ender 5 5015 version.

Background

Although I really enjoy my Hydra Fan Duct design both my Ender 3 Pros have exclusively 4010 ducts with a Bowden system. I therefore thought they may be better suited with a more Compact Lightweight system that provides some expansion\versatility but keeps the base unit to a reasonable minimum.

Therefore this compact duct system which is based on a 3010 Hot End Fan(similar to the V6).

Only for 4010 fans and the Ender 3 the thing as a very minimal base duct whiuch can be expanded upon, adding weight with the various options. There is also options for tool change and a V6 version. The 3010 fan being smaller can be a little more noisy ( I have used rasonable quality ball bearing fans rather than hydrualic and therefore are quite good) but due to its size it sits above the heater block much closer to the heat sink and therefore hopefully is much more efficient than the stock 4010 cooling fan again like the V6. I have also included some work in progress BL Touch brackets for a starter for both the Stock & V6 versions. The system includes.

1.Stock & V6 base 4010 low profile ducts.

2.Tool Change options including Stock Direct Drive, BMG Direct Drive, Dual Gear Direct Drive and standard Bowden.

3.Easy front face height adjustment of fans up to 6mm.

4.Wire Management\cable Tidy options.

5.Clear viewing window of nozzle whilst printing.

Installation

1.I have also uploaded some basic installation guides for both the stock & the V6 versions. The guides only cover the basics to get started with the system. Please comment or message if you require further information. There are also uploaded images for BL Touch offsets and nozzle dimensions off the build plate.I have also uploaded a step file of the full system if anyone wants to create any derivatives.

2.You will need various M3 hex bolts ranging from 6mm long to 16 mm and some M3 Brass thermal inserts. The quantities of each will vary depending on which parts of the system you adopt. The inserts I used were:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PMZCP23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3.The 3010 fans used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DB59XP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4.M3 Bolt set Used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JNDYL2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5.All parts marked WIP in front of the file name have been printed but not yet installed. I di d have one previous comment that the BMG tool head flexed a little due to the small web, this can easily be increased but may interfere with the BMG aces hatch.

Printing

1.The majority of the parts print without support (the base ducts print upside down) except for the rear duct mounts which unfortunately require some support. I have included some sacrificial layers in some of the holes in the mounts which will need cleaning in addition to the supports.

2.The WM Upstand and Clips will require either a very slow print speed or a raft due to their small footprint.

3.It is suggested that parts be printed in the orientation uploaded.

4.I have included 2 sizes of Wire Management clip but there is also a rib on the inside of each clip which can be shaved if further cable space is required.

5.The ducts print without support on their backs but there is an integral support immediately below the lower front fixing boss which needs cleaning off prior to insertion of the 4010 fan (see uploaded image of duct).

6.Printed with White, Blue, Red & Black Amazon Basics PETG on an Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5 and my Hypercube.

Update:04_05_20 Uploaded V6 Clamp bracket which was missed off on the original upload.

Update:06\05\20 Revised and uploaded all 4010 ducts after undertaking some CFD testing. The air flow on the V1 ducts tended to focus to the rear of the nozzle. The V2 version corrects this issue.

Compact 4010 Duct System for the Ender 3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774121.

Jan 2020: It may be worth checking out my latest design - Hydra Fan Duct & Tool Change System which IMHO is far better in a lot of ways than this Hero Me remix. Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242

Update:16_01_20

Uploaded revised RH & LH 5 degree duct V2.6 with increased elevation to air flow. Member request and untested\protoyped so please treat WIP.

Update:17_08_19

Uploaded revised RH 5 degree duct V2.5 which allows more clearance for the heat & thermistor cables.

Update:16_08_19 B
EZABLTouch Plate_V1 incorrect hand - have uploaded EZABLTouch Plate_V2

Update:16_08_19
Uploaded a WIP fixing plate for a EZABL sensor. This was a member request with a 18mm mounting hole specified. Never used one so this is definitely work in progress. All comments welcome

Update:04_08_19
Uploaded 5015 Ducts (Straight & Offset) with BL Touch mounting panel and mounting plate. I do not own a BL Touch so this design was based on 3D models so definitely WIP. I have increased the thickness of the Duct mount to the base unit to make it even more robust on the LH duct. You may now need to use M3 x 10 mm to fix to the base unit. You will require 2 x M3 x 6 mm bolts to mount the BLT fixing plate to the duct and 2 x M3 x 6 mm bolts to mount the BLT to the fixing plate. The fixing plate allows for 6 mm height variation.

Update:28_07_19
Uploaded M3 spanner-nut holder to help fix 5015 fans if long nosed pliers are not available.

This is a remix of my previous Hero Me remix which works with the BASARABA INNOVATIONS USA  Direct Drive upgrade kit for the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro & CR10S.

This remix involves the base unit (2 versions), Dual 4010 fan duct and the dual 5015 fan duct. The dual fan duct also has 2 versions one straight and one offset to 5 degrees to clear the motor.

The parts in this thing are based on the standard stock hot end only at this time.

The Remix 2 duct fan are compatible with these base units but I have revised them with hopefully better air flow and improved seating for the 5015 fans so may be worth reprinting.

I am waiting for my UK supplier to attain stock of the Ender 5 direct drive kit so I am unable to provide an Ender 5 version at this time.

All parts were rebuilt from scratch in Fusion 360.

Apologies in advance if any of the items below are included in another remix I have not spotted.

In this remix I have:

1.Created a sturdy 3 point fix solution for the base to the mounting plate integrating the direct drive motor spacer within the base units themselves

2.Extended the wire management of the fans, hiding cables, with a cable channel & cap across the hot end fan and a restraining clip to the main cable feeds.

3.All parts included can be printed without supports.

4.Included 2 base versions. The base 2 version does the same job has Base 1 but allows exit of the cabling to the right of the motor instead of the left which will help assembly if using the 4010 fans but does make the wiring loom less visually elegant. Usage should be solely based on personal preference.

Printing and Installation Notes

1.Please refer to the direct drive upgrade kit documentation for basic installation guidance, if unsure please contact and I will attempt to explain any specific installation issues.

2.I have uploaded an installation guide for each base unit for referral.

3.Please be careful when manipulating fan duct wires. Most lost cost fans have very delicate soldering and can easily break. I have re soldered many wires during the prototyping of this thing. I have found the Creality branded fans to be much more robust and better performance than other unbranded items.

4.I have noticed that the LH duct can conflict with Ender 3 Heat Bed cable retention housing at the extreme rear left. This must be something inherent with the original thing because the duct footprint as only changed slightly. Just be aware of this if printing anything which is placed to the very rear left hand corner.

5.If you are using the standard plastic stock extruder head you will need to snip off the cable shroud clips adjacent to the bowden tube nozzle to clear the new cable tie retention detail. If you are using an upgrade aluminium head this does not have any cable clip and will clear the base part.

Print Settings

Prototypes printed with Tronxy Orange PETG

0.2 resolution, 3 perimeters, 30 % infill, 245C @ 35 mms on an Ender 3 Pro\ Ender 5

Ender 3 CR10S Hero Me Remix 3 For Basaraba Direct Drive Upgrade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4945681.

This is a remix of my Manta Compact Cooling Fan System. This version is only compatible with the Ender 5. The Ender 3 version is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943125

This Remix includes:

1.Reduced system parts list from 67 down to just under 30 parts.

2.There is now only one universal duct base for all variants including V1 & V2 versions, all fans, hot ends and tool head types. This will hopefully reduce user confusion when selecting relevant parts.

3.The parts have been optimised further for faster printing and stronger print orientation.

4.Includes two work in progress BL Touch mounting brackets. Although I own various levelling sensors yet rarely use them. Therefore the included brackets are a WIP starting position for others to develop for their own personal requirements. I have not tested either of these parts.

5.V6 style hot ends now mount from the front allowing easier maintenance and swap over and a much simpler Ender 5 base mount.

6.Bowden and Direct Drive assemblies can be swapped out without removing the Duct Base from the gantry mount.

7.Integrated, mechanically fixed fan shrouds for both the Stock & V6 style Hot Ends.

8.Improved the 4010 fan output via larger apertures which have reduced air restriction further..

Brief Video of the Ender 3 Version in action here: https://youtu.be/jBxMxrer-ss

Installation

1.I have uploaded an Installation guide and BOM. I have also included Fusion & step files for any bespoke tweaks or remixes.

2.If using 5015 ducts you may have to acquire a new timing belt similar to the MK1 version and use cable ties to retain the belt rather than the stock brass ferrules which will be in the way of the 5015 fan itself rather than the duct. You may be able to squeeze or bend the stock ferrule to accommodate this but I cannot guarantee this. I personally prefer using the ties has the belt tends to twist slightly less IMHO. A dual 401 fan set up will not probably need any change and should clear the stock ferrules (see uploaded images & Installation Guide).

3.I have used a slightly smaller Heat Sets\ Thermal Inserts in this thing because some of the remaining\retaining walls were quite small. Therefore I have included a 4.25 ID hole x 5mm deep for a 5mm OD x 5mm long M3 Heat Set.

4.Inserts Used(Amazon UK link:) 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01GO4O0OW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5.Which fans ? I usually use a ball bearing based fan rather than a hydraulic fan, they tend to last longer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DB6132Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DB59XP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WINSINN-Turbine-40x10mm-Brushless-Bearing/dp/B07RNPJ1YS/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3JYCYIXTSSQ9W&dchild=1&keywords=4010+fan+24v&qid=1631619142&qsid=258-6274311-6130410&s=computers&sprefix=4010%2Ccomputers%2C163&sr=1-7&sres=B07L2WTH7H%2CB087TG5KH4%2CB07B7GBYPR%2CB07RNPJ1YS%2CB07R97Z

Printing:

1.No parts require support. There are however, various integrated supports and sacrificial layers that will require cleaning off after printing (refer to the Installation Guide and the Part Preparation section).

2.All parts were printed with PETG, 30 to 40% infill with 3 perimeters.

Manta MK2 Duct & Tool Head System Ender 5 Version

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943125.

Update:18\10\21 Uploaded some 5010 fan ducts which are 8.5mm longer to allow for a Volcano Hot End. These are definitely WIP. I have not printed, installed or produced any CFD simulations at this time. The parts are extended at the duct so the standard base and support arms should work with these parts. I stress very much work in progress.

Update:31\08\21 Noticed a very very slight discrepancy with the Duct Base for the V1 hole centres, only 0.15mm which the hole tolerance should allow but tweaked them and uploaded anyway.

Update: 30\08\21 Uploaded additional Direct Drive Heads for the Sherpa Mini & Orbiter with WM upstands and rear fixing for the Mini (see uploaded images). Updated the BMG Direct Drive due to miss alignment with the filament path.

This is a remix of my Manta Compact Cooling Fan System. This version is not compatible with the Ender5. The Ender 5 version can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4945681

This Remix includes:

1.Reduced system parts list from 67 down to just over 20 parts

2.There is now only one universal duct base for all variants including V1 & V2 versions, all fans, hot ends and tool head types. This will hopefully reduce user confusion when selecting relevant parts.

3.The parts have been optimised further for faster printing and stronger print orientation.

4.Includes two work in progress BL Touch mounting brackets. Although I own various levelling sensors I rarely use them. Therefore the included brackets are a WIP starting position for others to develop for their own personal requirements. I have not tested either of these parts.

5.V6 style hot ends now mount from the front allowing easier maintenance and swap over.

6.Bowden and Direct Drive assemblies can be swapped out without removing the Duct Base from the gantry mount.

7.Integrated, mechanically fixed fan shrouds for both the Stock & V6 style Hot Ends.

8.Improved the 4010 fan output via larger apertures which have reduced air restriction further..

Brief Video in action here: https://youtu.be/jBxMxrer-ss

Installation

1.I have uploaded an Installation guide and BOM. I have also included Fusion & step files for any bespoke tweaks or remixes.

2.I have found that the upper left thread stand off on the Ender 3 mounting plate can vary between units. I had to drill out the stand off on 2 units to fix the relevant bolt. The Duct base should have sufficient location with the other 3 bolts if you do not wish to do this. I have based my design on the original Creality step files for the V1 and measurements from my my own V2 as a base for the design.

3.I have used a slightly smaller Heat Sets\ Thermal Inserts in this thing because some of the remaining\retaining walls were quite small. Therefore I have included a 4.25 ID hole x 5mm deep for a 5mm OD x 5mm long M3 Heat Set.

4.Heat Sets used (Amazon UK):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01GO4O0OW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5.Which fans? I usually use a ball bearing based fan rather than a hydraulic fan, they tend to last longer.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DB6132Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DB59XP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WINSINN-Turbine-40x10mm-Brushless-Bearing/dp/B07RNPJ1YS/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3JYCYIXTSSQ9W&dchild=1&keywords=4010+fan+24v&qid=1631619142&qsid=258-6274311-6130410&s=computers&sprefix=4010%2Ccomputers%2C163&sr=1-7&sres=B07L2WTH7H%2CB087TG5KH4%2CB07B7GBYPR%2CB07RNPJ1YS%2CB07R97Z

Printing:

1.Only the Rear Mounting Plate requires slicer support. There are however, various integrated supports and sacrificial layers that will require cleaning off after printing (refer to the Installation Guide and the Part Preparation section).

2.All parts were printed with PETG, 30 to 40% infill with 3 perimeters.



Manta MK2 Duct & Tool Head System

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3054659.

Update 24\11\19: Uploaded Days only version of base. I have not test printed this so still WIP.

Update: There is now a revised version available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3243260

This is  a remix of my Pill Box with AM PM Apertures. In version 2 I have included:

1.Spring tension to the lid. The tension is achieved by using 1-4 springs from cheap Biro or press release pens (4mm OD x 20mm ish).

2.Ratchet system to provide a tactile response.
The Ratchet is a separate insert so can be removed if undesirable or not suited to user. The lid tension will still work without the Ratchet.

3.Integral travel clasp. Low profile or a hooked version available for download.

Print Settings

1.All things printed at 0.2 resolution. No support is required except for Clasps.

2.Clasps, Bolt and Ratchet Inserts are better printed with increased perimeters and infill to increase strength. I have also printed prototypes in PETG. I have used 30% infill and 3 perimeter walls.

3.Some wear may occur with the small ratchet steps on the underside of the lid after time. This may result in less audible clicks to ratchet but the lid tension will still work (I will look at this further for the next version).

4.The Clasps will require support and a raft to be printed on their side to maximise strength.

5.The ratchet insert should be printed flat.

Assembly Instructions (also see images for assembly instructions).

1.Obtain 2 x 4mm OD x 20mm springs.

2.Place Body and Lid face down.

3.Insert Ratchet with correct orientation to slot, Ratchet is asymmetrical  and can only fit one way. Make sure the wedge shape is to the bottom.

4.Align springs with circular recesses in the Base & Liner. This is quite fiddly, thin nosed pliers will help.

5.Gently press on liner plate while compressing springs joggle Ratchet insert into alignment.

5.While holding down Liner Plate, screw in fixing bolt. Fully tighten using screwdriver or
coin.

6.Insert either type of Clasp into pivot slots on the base top face. 

7.Rotate clasp and force over Base rim to fasten. Shave material off the Clasp retention grip to reduce severity.


UPDATE: 11\11\18 - I have not tested\printed the following update so technically version 
2_2 is WIP.
 Files included in Version 2_2:

AMPM_Label OnlyV2_2.stl
Bolt_V2_2 LH Thread.stl
Lid_V2_2 LH Thread.stl
Main Body_V2_2_No_AM_PM.stl
Main Body_AMPM_V2_2.stl

1.On request I have reversed the thread in the lid and the bolt so it rotates in the opposite direction to the lid rotation ( Great Idea by Mr_Tantrum !).

2.Seperated AM PM lettering from main body so it can be either printed on a dual extrusion machine or printed separately and glued afterwards if you have the will to do this.


Updsate: 12_11_18
1.Changed Lid_V2_2_LH Thread.stl because it was incorrect Now V2_3


Pill Box with AM PM Apertures V2\V2_2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3912249.

IMPORTANT UPDATE\NOTICE:

Having spent a lot of time, effort and probably twice the price of a Nimble I still cannot get this to work effectively due to the flexing of the core considerably negating the applied retraction. I am therefore abandoning this thing until as such time I can find something suitable to make work effectively. I have uploaded my more recent side mounted stepper mounted design which uses the speedometer cable below, the design allowing the speedo cable to be cut down to 500mm. But I will not be supporting this any further. The additional uploaded file are purely for anyone that may want them for future reference. cable link: 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ANLKCP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4-5mm Coupling used in side mounted version: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PC3RV79/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link to video of side mounted speedometer cable design: https://youtu.be/p3_mwdY8ywI

This is a Direct Drive Extruder design which uses a flexible drive shaft to reduce the weight of the Extruder Head. The things works as described but I am leaving the status has WIP for now for further print testing. I will upload some samples when I have tested more thoroughly.

After disappointing results with my own and the Basaraba Direct Drive Upgrade kit due to a lot of ringing- noise artifacts due to the additional inertia of the added motor weight on the Ender 3. I decided to experiment with a flexible shaft drive based on inexpensive readily available components to see if I could improve the print quality.

Overall I have been pleasantly surprised in comparison to previous attempts. Due to the flexing of the shaft there are definitely some quirks with this extruder but nothing some good slicer settings or firmware offsets should be able to remedy. The majority of artefacts seen in tests to date relate more to Retraction and cooling settings. There is less evidence of noise through inertia.

I have uploaded a video to YouTube of the thing in operation, link below:

https://youtu.be/XW-WkwuptpY

Components

1.Although most components can be found on Amazon or elsewhere there is a small amount of simple fabrication required, so this thing is not totally Purchase & Print.

2.I have used the axle, spacers and bearings from an old Nema 17 stepper motor to create the Extruder Head Shaft assembly. This requires some filing and cutting to length so a Hacksaw, file and preferably a bench vice (not essential) is required. I have uploaded a fabrication sketch for the axle fabrication based on a 5mm shaft removed from a redundant stepper motor.

3.The cost of components are from £16.50 upwards (including mounting bracket but excluding filament, nuts and bolts) dependant on how long you want to wait for delivery. The fundamental requirements are a 4mm OD flexible shaft (similar to those used in a Dremel multi tool) preferably with at least one 4mm flat head or spigot coupling to the end and a fairly rigid PU tube with an ID of 5mm and an OD of 8mm. You will also require 2 x 4mm to 5mm shaft couplings and a stepper motor 90 degree mounting bracket. For those who do not have or want to purchase the angle bracket I have uploaded a plastic printable version.

4.I have used the same base design has previous Hero Me remixes so most recent base and ducts should be compatible.

5.Unitil I have completed an installation guide for this thing I have uploaded the guide for the DIY Direct Drive which as a similar assembly for reference.

6.On my Ender 3 I cut the PU tube down to 790 mm long and trimmed the flexible shaft to 750mm long(do not attempt to shape the end of the shaft after cutting, you will destroy it and it will not fit in the coupling). The fin on the spigot end of the flexible shaft will need to be cut off and a 12mm long flat filed on the shaft to help prevent the shaft revolving in the coupling. If using with a CR10S I would suggest (not tried) a tube length of 990mm and a shaft length of 950mm.

7.I will upload an Installation guide when complete. Please comment if there are any immediate queries.

BOM

1.These are the actual components I have used, you will be able to find less expensive, single purchases with longer delivery times if suits.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PB2QXZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CN5SGJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PK7HL8F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASHATA-Mounting-Bracket-Anti-rust-Accessories-default/dp/B07TFTG1CY/ref=sr_1_24?crid=2LGWSSHV6MYWD&dchild=1&keywords=stepper+motor+mounting+bracket&qid=1594064159&sprefix=stepper+motor+mounting+bracket%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-24


Print Settings

1.All things except the flex drive bracket will print without supports.

2.I have printed the components at 40% infill, 3 perimeters with Tronsky Orange PETG & PrimaSelect Light Blue PETG. Average printing temp was 240C with a bed temp of 70C.

3.I have uploaded 2 versions of the Flexible Drive bracket. One as an additional support pad to allow for interim supports in your slicer to reduce the likelihood of the PETG based supports warping.
4.I have included some sacrificial layers to various holes in most parts to aid bridging when printing. These will require cleaning out prior to assembly.

Operation

Due to the flexing of the shaft there are a few quirks with this thing. I am still testing and have no specific overall conclusions at this time.

1.Retraction - Due to the flexing of the shaft the retraction needs to be higher to compensate. Therefore although a high retraction is set in the slicer the actually received retraction at the extruder head is still much lower. I am still testing this.

What Next?

1.Reducing the overall weight of the extruder assembly, perhaps using a single 5015 duct arrangement and single body duct\bracket if achievable.

2.Extensive slicer tweaking to offset the flexing of the drive shaft.


Flexible Shaft Direct Drive for Ender 3  CR10S

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3881061.

Update:19\06\20 Uploaded Step File.

Jan 2020: It may be worth checking out my latest design - Hydra Fan Duct & Tool Change System which IMHO is far better in a lot of ways than this Hero Me remix. Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242

Update 04_10_19

Uploaded a Bridged 5015 duct with BL touch Mount, included BL Touch and EZABL fixing plates. I do not use levelling sensors so these are all WIP.

Update: 26_09_19
Re uploaded Direct Drive Bracket Base System 2_V1 with the correct print orientation.

Update: 26_09_19
Re uploaded X Cap_V1 with the correct print orientation.

This is a combined remix of napfkuchen`s fabulously simple Direct Extrusion Mount and my own series of Hero Me Duct remixes (thanks to HiccupHater for making me aware of this).

In this remix I have:

1.Increased rigidity of the direct drive mount and made it compatible with a revised version of my Hero Me base designs.

2.Improved wire management to Duct Base Design.Revised base to suit the direct drive mounting bracket.

3.I have also included a version of the revised Direct Drive Mount just for the Stock Fan assembly.

4.Included a revised X carriage End Stop Cowl with integral junction box to tidy up Extruder extension cables and sockets. 

This bracket is only compatible with the 5015 fan duct design at the moment. Due to the sideways mount of the extruder stepper motor I will have to design a new angled 4010 duct to make sure it clears the stepper and allows room for cables.

I do not use levelling sensors but there are other variations which you may want to try (purely work in progress) which are uploaded to my previous 2 remixes at the following links:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774121

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3744260

Installation

1.I have uploaded a fairly detailed PDF installation guide with the things which should cover most details but please contact if I have missed anything. The sequence of assembly in the guide is just a personal preference - the extruder motor & head can easily be attached prior to the Duct Base Unit if preferred.

2.CR10S owners. You made need to add an additional 1mm washer to the hot end when attaching to the base plate to allign the nozzles and short length of Bowden Tube. I noticed n my CR10S that the mounting bosses are slightly smaller than the Ender 3 M3 mounts.

3.I have uploaded 2 versions of the Assembly (see uploaded images). System Base 1 & 2. Both versions basically do the same job. The Base 1 unit wraps over the front fan assembly and therefore hides the fan\heater cable better but is slightly more fiddly to install. The base 2 assembly are separate in front of the front fan and therefore slightly easier to manipulate cables and parts during installation.

Notes on Print Quality

Although my test prints so far have been quite good. Due to the side mounted design the results are better IMHO than other direct drive upgrade kits I have previously purchased. However, the increased weight of the direct drive assembly does cause some minor artefacts to the surface quality in comparison to the original Bowden configuration. I have tested with the stock fan arrangement and even braced the printer to the wall but additional surface noise is still evident.

Therefore to summarise this is an ideal and inexpensive option (free except for a few bolts and stepper extension cable) for someone who wants to try direct drive printing, print alternative materials and print faster but do not expect higher print quality results than an existing Bowden set up (see uploaded comparison print samples image). At the time of publishing I have only tested with PLA.

If anyone can resolve the artefact issue with the direct drive I would be very keen to know how. I have tried lots of different things including retraction\jerk speeds, extensive slicer settings, belt & pulley tightening and general speed & retraction settings. I do however have a direct drive printing very well on my heavily braced (10 mm threaded  bar) CR10S. This may be the obvious answer, that and a second Z drive as per the CR10S

Print Settings

1.All parts printed with Tronsky Orange PETG @ .02 layer height, 3 perimeters and 30% infill on a Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5 and CR10S.

2.The Direct Drive Bracket does require supports, all other parts can be printed support free.


Direct Drive & Hero Me Remix 4 for Ender 3 & CR10S

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3445696.

Pill Box with AM PM Apertures V4 - It's More Personal!

There is a variation to this thing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3655391

The main focus of this remix was to address some annoying little details and improve some tolerances. I have also included additional decals to offer a larger range of customisation. Please refer to V3 for more information.

Link to V3: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3243260

1.I have revised and simplified the support for the base components, it is now faster and more stable to print.

2.Applied chamfers to the Day Insert Trim rather than rads so the part can be printed inverted without support.

3.Included Directional Arrows to Lid

4.Improved tolerances.

5.Introduced additional decals.In addition to the stencil decals I have included some solid versions which can be used with a slicer pause method to create dual colour prints on a single extruder. The Day decals and Top Decal should have a change of colour at 0.3 mm. The lid at a change of colour at 3mm. There are plenty of  videos on Youtube available to explain this process I would recommend for Cura the video by CHEP - Filament Friday and Fugatech for a tutorial using Simplyfy 3D. I have also included blank decal plates for individual customisation.

Assembly Notes

Although I have included a 3D printed decals for the AM-PM apertures it can be hard to achieve a satisfactory print at this level of detail and would recommend using a 2D printed decal and glue or use double sided tape to adhere within the provided recess in the top of the base\body. This option will provide a much more clean and professional looking result.

Please see the exploded render for a guide to the general assembly of the components.

Please note all threads are left-handed (Day Decal Clip and the fixing bolt threads).

The Day Decal threaded trim works fine but due to it being a 150mm 3D printed thread there is a tendency to bind a little on first application. I would suggest using a little vaseline on the inside of the trim thread to help to thread the first time. After the thread is naturally cut by its opposite counterpart the assembly is much easier.

To reduce the play in the lid and ratchet the tolerance between the Fixing Bolt Base and Ratchet Collar has to be quite tight. Therefore I have included various ribs and tabs that can be sanded or shaved if there is any larger variation in printer tolerances.

In some of the example images, I have used a gloss photo paper and inserted a transparent binder cover in front to protect the artwork\decals. I basically taped the acrylic to the back of the gloss paper and carefully cut both of them out at the same time with a scalpel.

Important - The Ratchet Collar can be positioned in 2 ways but has an odd number of teeth.Therefore it is important to align the ratchet with the ratchet cog correctly.

Print\Slicer Settings

Where required I have included custom supports which break away after printing to provide a better finish (Body, Clasp & Fixing Bolt. Therefore you do not need to select\click support in your slicing software.

I printed the Fixing Bolt, Nut, Clasp, Ratchet Collar and Ratchet in PETG to provide greater resilience. Although the components perform fine in PLA I also found that the PETG Ratchet Prong flexed much better than in PLA which was much more rigid. I also printed these components with 4 perimeters and 30% infill. In my tests the PLA version appeared to work fine so PETG may only be required for extra longevity.

The 3D printed decals were printed at 0.1 resolution @100% infill to provide some visual density in a fairly thin component.

All other comps were printed at 0.2 resolution @15% infill. I did however partially print the lid with 0.1 resolution on the angled finger grips to reduce any terracing effect.

Update 19\03\20
Inserts de jour téléchargés dans Français Stencil


Update 17\03\20
Inserts de jour téléchargés dans Français


Update 17\03\20

Uploaded bolt without support structure.

Update 09\06\19

Included clasp with no supports for anyone having slicer problems with the clasp with integral supports.

Update 23\02\19
Uploaded Ratchet Cog and Bolt with slot to fix\set cog orientation. Please note, bolt will need to be inserted after lid is in position with base.

Update 11\04\19
Uploaded Standard and XL base parts without integral support
Base_XL_No_Support_V4
Base_standard_No_Support_V4

Update 06\06\21

Uploaded Both Base Units with sacrificial layers so they can be printed without supports by using just bridging. The bridge is 55 mm wide so therefore requires quite good part cooling. I have therefore also included a bridging test piece to check bridging ability prior to printing the full base part (see uploaded image). The sacrificial layers are 0.4 mm thick therefore a layer thickness of 0.2 mm will achieve the best bridging results.

Bridging Test Base_V4_2.stl	563 kb	
Base_V4_EX_2 Bridging.stl	2 mb	
Base_V4_2 Bridging.st


Pill Box with AM PM Apertures V4 - It's More Personal!

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3744260.

Jan 2020: It may be worth checking out my latest design - Hydra Fan Duct & Tool Change System which IMHO is far better in a lot of ways than this Hero Me remix. Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242

06\01\20 Uploaded 4010 fan ducts to fit new 2019 version fan.

09\12\19 Please Note: Creality seem to have changed the design of the 4010 fan and the size of fixing. Therefore until I have had chance to revise the 4010 duct may not fit with newer machines or replacement fans..

Update:29_09_19
Uploaded Ender 5 Base Fusion File

Update:15_09_19
Revised Ender 3 - CR10 base - Modified Hot End Fan Location holes.

Update:10_09_19 B
Uploaded Fusion Base file

Update:16_08_19 B
EZABLTouch Plate_V1 incorrect hand - have uploaded EZABLTouch Plate_V2

Update:16_08_19
Uploaded a WIP fixing plate for a EZABL sensor. This was a member request with a 18mm mounting hole specified. Never used one so this is definitely work in progress. All comments welcome

Update:04_08_19
Uploaded 5015 Ducts (Straight & Offset) with BL Touch mounting panel and mounting plate. I do not own a BL Touch so this design was based on 3D models so definitely WIP. I have increased the thickness of the Duct mount to the base unit to make it even more robust on the LH duct. You may now need to use M3 x 10 mm to fix to the base unit. You will require 2 x M3 x 6 mm bolts to mount the BLT fixing plate to the duct and 2 x M3 x 6 mm bolts to mount the BLT to the fixing plate. The fixing plate allows for 6 mm height variation.

Update:26_07_19
Uploaded 5015 Ducts V2_4 RH & LH. Improved the seat to create a much firmer seat\fit.Revised the duct vanes to provide more directional air flow over nozzle.
Uploaded 4010 Ducts V2_4 RH & LH. Revised the duct vanes to provide more directional air flow over nozzle.

Update:17_07_19
Uploaded 5015 Ducts V2_3 RH & LH. Increased the size of the duct retaining flange to create a much firmer seat\fit.

Update:16_07_19
Uploaded 5015 Ducts V2_2 RH & LH. Rotated fan to improve fan cable management and reduce size of part. Fractionally condensed space between fans.

Update:14_07_19
Uploaded a 1mm & 2mm Leveling Spacers\Helpers

Update:14_07_19
Uploaded torture test images.

This is my second remix of kelokeras & Mediamans Hero Me Fan Duct. This remix involves the base unit, Dual 4010 fan duct and the dual 5015 fan duct. 
Update: Below: I do not use any form of levelling sensor so at this time I have not considered these options. 

 ratherbe_flyin has made a bracket for the BLTouch mount which he tells me `works perfectly` at the following link:

 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3780708

The parts still use the original locking part but the Base units will only be compatible with the duct parts in this thing. 

The parts in this thing are based on the standard stock hot end only at this time.

All parts were rebuilt from scratch in Fusion 360.

Apologies in advance if any of the items below are included in another remix I have not spotted

In this remix I have:

1.Created a 2 point fix solution with only one tab to provide a robust fixing solution that does not rely on very tight tolerances to create rigidity and over strain parts.The parts facilitate a standard M3 Pan Head x 10 mm bolt without any trimming with scalpels or knifes.

2.Extended the wire management of the fans, hiding all cables, with a cable channel & cap across the hot end fan and a restraining clip to the main cable feeds.

3.All parts included can be printed  without supports ( I have integrated a break away foot to the 5015 duct RH & LH ducts to retain stability when printing).

4.Two part fan duct solution removes retaining cross bar, increases nozzle visibility and slightly reduces weight.

Printing and Installation Notes

1.Please refer to the original thing for basic installation guidance, if unsure please contact and I will attempt to explain any specific installation issues. I will upload a exploded view of parts later.

2.Please be careful when manipulating fan duct wires. Most lost cost fans have very delicate soldering and can easily break. I have re soldered many wires during the prototyping of this thing. I have found the Creality branded fans to be much more robust and better performance than other unbranded items.

FYI I have purchased these which appear genuine and low cost if you can allow the delivery time. Link:https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MBCM645/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3.The Dual 5015 installation at best can be described has finicky. You will need to clip the WM cap into the base unit with the Left Hand fan cables in place before inserting\fixing the Left Hand Fan. After inserting the Left Hand Fan you can then draw the excess cable through the WM Cap. Make sure that the soldered fan connections are not strained.

4.I have included a basic 1.5 mm pilot hole to retain the 4010 fans with the stock M2 bolts that are used with the original assembly. I have found that the 4010 fans are a snug fit and I have not used the original bolts at all. It may be best if wanting to use the stock bolts to thread the holes prior to assembly with the bolts.

5.With the Ender 5 base installation I found that just using the top rear fixing bolt was sufficient in addition to the lock plate. If you wish to use the lower rear fix as well, use a M10 x 6 mm bolt, the lower hole is shorter so not to conflict with the duct fixing holes.If you have any problems with this please contact..

6.I have noticed that the LH duct can conflict with Ender 3 Heat Bed cable retention housing at the extreme rear left. This must be something inherent with the original thing because the duct footprint as only changed slightly. Just be aware of this if printing anything which is placed to the very rear left hand corner.

Print Settings

Prototypes printed with Tronxy Orange PETG 

0.2 resolution, 3 perimeters, 30 % infill, 245C @ 35 mms on an Ender 3 Pro\ Ender 5

Hero Me Remix 2 with Robust Assembly & Extended Wire Management

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4777606.

Update:30\08\21 Uploaded CAD Files in Fusion 360 & Step Formats.

Update 22\05\21

Uploaded Step files for Linear Rail Mounting Plates.

Update 06\04\21

Uploaded a revised Mounting Plate for the V1.5 Orbiter Extruder with a reinforced\ more robust WM Upstand.

Update 31\03\21

Based On feedback by TheOML I have uploaded a revised BL Touch Bracket which is 5mm longer. This part is untested. It will require a small amount of support to print effectively. WIP.

Update 31\03\21
Uploaded a revised Mounting Plate and Adapter Plate for the V1.5 Orbiter Extruder. The Extruder hole Mounts slightly conflict with the existing Duct Base mounts so I have had to design an additional adapter plate to overcome this short term. Long term I will design a specific mount for this but this will mean printing a new Duct Base to suit. I have tested this arrangement on another prototype printer but not specifically the MK2 conversion so please treat this as WIP. 

Update 25\03\21
I have revised the Duct Base with a side access slot to allow the easier removal and insertion of a Bowden tube clip & collar. I have installed and tested this and insertion and removal are relatively easy with a small terminal screwdriver or similar tool. I had to slightly move the WM clamp fixing centre so I have also updated that part has well. Revised duct base step file also included. Revised the rear fan cable tray to insert the RH fan cable more easily. Minor design tweaks to improve print quality

This is my second Core XY conversion kit for the Ender 5 with Linear rails.

Test Print Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8vL2GeMYMQ

Previous version here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650517

As per the previous version a big shout out to Scott3D for his fabulous work on the Hypercube Evo which I have taken the belt tensioner detail from and a massive thanks to barnabyQ for his Ender 5 Pro 3D model over on Grabcad. This made things so much easier.

The major difference with this version is that I have placed the hot end assembly closer to the linear rails so there is much smaller cantilever from the nozzle to the linear rail. This should result in reduced inertia. The hot end assembly in this version is also very bespoke reducing the size. The belts are also immediately below the linear rails which should also help speed of printing.

Other Improvements:

The Linear rails mounts although additional parts allow for much direct easy mounting than mounting directly to the extrusions.

Includes an optional Extrusion motor mount to it to be sited in the middle of the side frame. In addition to making it much easier to change filament as opposed to the rear of the frame, being centrally mounted allows the bowden tube to be slightly reduced which is always a good thing.

Includes a set of vertical wire management ducts to tidy up the messy stock cabling. Designed in two parts to allow printing on the Ender 5 build plate. There is also a second upper duct which can be used with the stock metal motor mounting plate if preferred

Optional Direct Drive Stock Extruder plate.

I have designed an offset fan shroud for a V6 compatible heat sink which allows a BL Touch to be mounted at the front but still mostly clear of the front facing 3010 heat sink fan. There are also alternative cover plates for without any sensor and one with an offset down stand potentially for a LED light source and wiring.

The firmware changes were relatively simple, there are only a few comments to tweak. I did however have to invert the direction of the X & Y motors. Uncommenting Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES & Z_HOMING_HEIGHT stopped the Z axis from trying to drop to clear when homing. I have included my config file within the upload for reference.


The conversion will easily allow for the stock 220 x220 build volume and allows for the full 235 x235 dependent on duct design. I have not yet designed a 5015 fan duct set.

I have since attached a Optical End Stop to the X axis to tidy up all the cables. I had to extend a 1 metre cable to do this and provide a separate power feed to a spare 5v pin on my BTT E3 Mini board.

I have also remixed a fixed variant of my Slim Display Housing to sit inboard of the Ender 5 Frame here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650597

I have uploaded step files for the Duct Base, Bowden Tool Plate and XY joiners for customisation.

Installation

1.I have classed this has WIP because I have not yet been able to provide a detailed installation guide. I have however included a high res annotated screen grabs for the assembly and a sample BOM for the parts in the upload to get you started. Please comment or message me for further technical information.

2.The Bill of Materials is only indicative and the relevant parts could be purchased much more cost effectively at the likes of Aliexpress. I had most of the parts in stock so personally this conversation cost very little.

3.The forward idlers are created by removing the front to M5 2020 frame fixings and replace them with a 80mm threaded bar. This is a very simple but strong foundation for the front idlers. I have not seen any side effect in rigidity terms but you may want to attach some additional corner brackets if concerned about the rigidity of the frame overall.

4.With XY joiners there is no perfect print orientation due to the stress by the belts on both axis. I have therefore included 4 x 40 mm long M3 tie bolts which fasten across the print grain to help reduce any potential delamination of the layers. I have found out of experience any many prototypes with my HEVO that this little mechanical indulgence is well worth it in terms of longevity.

Printing

1.All parts print without supports except for the Bowden Tool Plate, which may require some custom supports under the wire management port if it is printed vertically as uploaded. The tool plate will print fine horizontally just not quite the same surface finish. There are some sacrificial layers across some holes to help bridging which will require cleaning through.

2.Due to the belt tension applied these parts need to be printed quite strongly. Therefore I have printed all parts with at least 30% infill and 3 layers. I would suggest all parts near to the hot end and bed should be printed in PETG whilst others will be fine in PLA if sufficient layers and perimeters are adopted. The black parts are ABS, the ABS parts were printed with no cooling and a 10 layer brim to reduce warping.

3.Printed with Amazon Basics Yellow PETG @2.5 layer height, 40 mms on various 
printers. Black parts Verbatim Black ABS, 2 layer brim, no part Cooling (except bridging), 50% infill, 3 perimeters.

Quick Tips

1.The Belt Tensioner assembly is much easier to put together with the printer on its front and therefore facing the parts laid flat. Leave a reasonable amount of spare belt for tensioning before trimming the belt.

2.Use a M3 tap to clear all the plastic from the thread inserts prior to assembly, it makes life much easier.

3.The thermal inserts I have used have an average OD of 5.2 mm. Therefore I use a 4.7mm insertion hole. Smaller inserts may require a smaller hole size. They are listed in the BOM.






Ender 5 Core XY with Linear Rails MK2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984187.

Update:01_11_18

Uploaded f3d file.

Update:17_08_18

New version available at the following link:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3054659

Circular Pill Box with:-

1. AM\PM apertures.
2. Ridged lid for Arthritic grip.
3. Slotted centre screw to adjust tension
4. Lid ratchet detail to stop at individual apertures (requires further refinement). 


Update: 05\07\18 - Revised Base\Body design


1. Removed Base perimeter detail that sometimes binds with outer rim of lid.
2. Modified central node detail to facilitate revised ratchet detail and removed existing ratchet detail (Still to be finalised).
3. Included linear divisions between days on outer perimeter.
4. Removed closed lettering & icon due to limits of clarity with some printers.


Pill Box with AM\PM Apertures

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3527185.

SD Card adaptor housing for the Creality Ender 3 Pro

There is a compact SD Card Adaptor Housing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537808

Please note if you have customised the bed type or bed position to lower than stock the adjacent Bed levelling adjustment bolt may conflict with the top of the housing. With the standard set up the bottom of the bolts clears by at least 10 mm (see uploaded images).

This thing attaches to the Ender 3 Pro via the top front screw to the right of the printer and at the end of the 40\40 base extrusion using the existing bolt.
1.The thing includes an aperture to allow access to the USB port.
2.Storage for 1 x SD & 1 x Micro SD card and a card orientation symbol.
3.Cable tie apertures to help tidy ribbon cable

I used the following Micro SD to SD card adaptor:

Amazon UK site:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C84YKVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tv-auto-20

International Site:
https://www.amazon.com/LANMU-Extension-Flexible-Monoprice-Raspberry/dp/B01D9JIUU0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549048389&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=LANMU+Micro+SD+to+SD+Card+Extension+Cable&psc=1

Assembly:
1.Insert adaptor into housing.
2.Tidy excess ribbon cable with an elastic band.
3.Fasten with cable tie if necessary.
5.Carefully insert Micro SD jack into appropriate slot.
6.Fix to lid via 1 x existing hex bolt to end of 40\40 extrusion.

Printing:
1.The main body is printed vertically and does not need any supports. I have also included a break away foot pad to aid stability when printing so it does not need a raft.
2.Body printed @ 50 mms 0.2 resolution and 20 % infill on a Ender 3 Pro..

Creality Ender 3 PRO SD Card Adapter Housing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2936870.

My Collection of mostly remixes\upgrades for the Zonestar P802QR2. I have uploaded a Obj and 3DS file with all the relevant 3D models included if anyone wants to improve them further . The things can be found at the folllowing links

Update:30\05\18 
1.Added Version 8 Sketchup File
2. Added MK2_1 Motherboard Enclosure Revisions
Update:01\06\18
3. Included SU file for Z axis anti rotation packer
Update:09\07\18
4. Included Fan Duct File and link
Update:14\07\18
5. Included Aliignment Jig File and link
6. Included Extruder Cable Cover File and link
Update:03\08\18
7. Included X Axis Mounts link
Update:24\08\18
8. Included X Axis Extruder Mounts link
Update:01\09\18
9. Included Large Motherboard link
Update:01\09\18
10. Included Cable Hoops link
Update:16\09\18
11. Included 60m Fan Duct link
12. Included RH Extrude Mount + Tensioner
06\10\18
Update:13\12\18
13.Included Y Axis Belt Tensioner

1.Filament Guides:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2936866
2.Motherrboard Enclosure:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3014565
3.PSU Cover
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2936831
4.Spool Holder
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2936817
5.Z Axis Lower Brace
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2936798
6.Z Axis Upper Brace
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2936787
7.Thumb Wheel
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2936875
8.Z Axis Anti Rotation Packer
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2941767
9.Fan Duct
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2996536
10.Nozzle Allignment Jig
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003981
11.Extruder Cable Cover
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3004261
12.X Axis Mounts
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3026964/edit
13.X Axis Extruder Mounts
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3065295
14.Large Motherboard Enclosure for a 120mm Fan
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3078715
15.Simple Cable Hoops
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3078781
16.60mm Fan Duct
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3103756
17.RH Extruder Tensioner Assembly
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3140628
18.Y axis Belt Tensioner
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3281526


Collection of upgrades for the Zonestar P802QR2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3243260.

Pill Box with AM PM Apertures V3 - It's Personal!

There is a newer version of this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3445696

This beast is getting more complicated but hopefully, it ticks more boxes. In this remix I have:

1. Integrated a series of removable trims to allow the personalisation of the Pill Box lid and body with either 2D or 3D printed decals. In addition to the uploaded 3D print decals I have included a jpeg template and a multiple layered Photoshop fiile (PSD) within the files to be used to overlay your own 2D printed decals.  The separate clips and 3D Decals also offer a greater variation to colour palette options when 3D printing without the need for a dual extrusion printer.
2. Included a much more robust and hopefully longer lasting Ratchet assembly. If you like whizzing the thing around with an enjoyable click like Mr Tantrum this is the Pill Box for you!

3. Included an XL body which is 10 mm deeper than the standard or V2. For users with a lot of daily meds.

Assembly Notes

1. I have still included 2 apertures in the ratchet collar\body to allow for spring tension if preferred ( In V2 I used 2 x springs from standard Biro pens). The revised Ratchet assembly does perform much better and therefore the springs are not absolutely necessary but tension from a single spring does improve the tactile feel.. The receiving holes for the springs are now more regular and retaining spring insertion is much easier than V2. I have included 2 spring apertures but a single spring is sufficient and much easier to assemble. The Ratchet works better if the fixing nut is not set too tight.

2. Although I have included a 3D printed decal for the AM-PM apertures it is very hard to achieve a satisfactory print at this level of detail and would recommend using a 2D printed decal and glue or use double sided tape to adhere within the provided recess in the top of the base\body. This option will provide a much more clean and professional looking result.

3. Please see the exploded render for a guide to the general assembly of the components. I may upload an assembly video at a later date.

4. Please note all threads are left-handed (Day Decal Clip and the fixing bolt threads).

5. The Day Decal threaded trim works fine but due to it being a 150mm 3D printed thread there is a tendency to bind a little on first application. I would suggest using a little vaseline on the inside of the trim thread to help to thread the first time. After the thread is naturally cut by its opposite counterpart the assembly is much easier.

6. To reduce the play in the lid and ratchet the tolerance between the Fixing Bolt Base and Ratchet Collar has to be quite tight. Therefore I have included various ribs and tabs that can be sanded or shaved if there is any larger variation in printer tolerances.

7.  In the example images, I have used a gloss photo paper and inserted a transparent `binder cover` in front to protect the artwork\decals. I basically taped the acrylic to the back of the gloss paper and carefully cut both of them out at the same time with a scalpel.

8. Important - The Ratchet Collar can be positioned in 2 ways. To make the Ratchet work in alignment with the base the collar should be positioned so the Ratchet Prong is near the Clasp aperture (see uploaded image). I will modify the Collar to be asymmetrical in a later revision.

Print\Slicer Settings

1. Where required I have included custom supports which break away after printing to provide a better finish (Body, Day Decal Trim, Clasp & Fixing Bolt. Therefore you do not need to select\click support in your slicing software.

2. I printed the Fixing Bolt, Nut, Clasp, Ratchet Collar and Ratchet in PETG to provide greater resilience. Although the components perform fine in PLA I also found that the PETG Ratchet Prong flexed much better than in PLA which was much more rigid. I also printed these components with 4 perimeters and 30% infill. In my tests the PLA version appeared to work fine so PETG may only be required for extra longevity.

3. The 3D printed decals were printed at 0.1 resolution @100% infill to provide some visual density in a fairly thin component. Decal layer thickness is based on multiples of 0.4 mm.

4. All other comps were printed at 0.2 resolution @15% infill. I did however partially print the lid with 0.1 resolution on the angled finger grips to reduce any terracing effect.

5. To achieve the ratchet assembly configuration I have had to rationalise printing angles which have resulted in the integration of some custom supports. This is, unfortunately, a percentage waste of plastic and does partially increase print times compared to V2 - perhaps I will look at this in V4!

Clearly more complicated than V2 but again hopefully ticks a lot more boxes. It will be great to see some personalised makes.


Update:29\11\18 Uploaded an additional Ratchet Collar with a slightly thicker arm to improve the clicking sound when rotating ratchet.


Update:21\12\18
Uploaded Day Insert Trim without supports

Update:29\12\18
Uploaded Revised Lid (V3_1) which includes rotation direction arrows.

Update:19\02\19
Included `Pets Pills` Top Decal


Pill Box with AM PM Apertures V3 - It's Personal!

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3259429.

Please note this is not compatible with the new CR10 V2 version

This is a housing to hold a Micro SD to Standard SD Card adapter for the Creality CR10\CR10S

1.This is primarily a cosmetic remix which includes larger and more fluent radii to soften the form further. I have not changed any of the internal details.

2.I have also included a break away foot\pad to the things which allows the thing to be printed vertically without a raft.

3.Similar to the earlier version to make the seating of the SD adapter snug to the housing I have included some interference points on the inside face (see image) these can be shaved if required to allow for any variation in different printer tolerances.

4.The things are the same but one has CR10S graphics and the others just CR10, CR10 Mini, Mini or Ender 3.I am not sure if the Ender 3 has the same control box but i have uploaded a version just in case but obviously untested.

The SD card adapter I used is at the following link:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C84YKVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Update: 07\12\18 Uploaded an additional CR10S thing with a different font

Update: 10\04\19 Removed Ender 3 from Thing title

Update: 30\12\19 Uploaded version with CR10v2 graphics



SD Card adapter housing for the Creality CR10\CR10S\Mini V2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3519227.

Please Note this fits the Ender 3 Only This does not fit the Ender 3 Pro

In this remix I have revised the SD Card adapter housing for the Creality Ender 3 to include an integrated fan cowl shield and removable debris guard.

Update:28\06\20

Uploaded Step File


Update: 28_05_19

In response to a Thingiverse user request I have Uploaded a revised body with no USB aperture for when using with Octoprint.

This thing attaches to the Ender 3 via the 2 front screws that attach the motherboard lid (the existing screws work fine).

1.The thing includes an aperture to allow access to the USB port.
2.Storage for 1 x SD & 1 x Micro Sd card and a card orientation symbol.
3.I have included 2 cable knockouts (you may need side cutters to cut\trim these) to the right hand side of the unit for USB access for any Octoprint requirements.
4.I have included to sizes of grille, the skinny version is quite delicate

I used the foillowing Micro SD to Sd card adapter:

Amazon UK site:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C84YKVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tv-auto-20

International Site:
https://www.amazon.com/LANMU-Extension-Flexible-Monoprice-Raspberry/dp/B01D9JIUU0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549048389&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=LANMU+Micro+SD+to+SD+Card+Extension+Cable&psc=1

Assembly:

1.Insert adapter into housing.
2.Inserted and push in end stop until adapter is snug. Insert following the direction arrow to allow ratchet to work.
3.Tidy excess ribbon cable with an elastic band leaving 50mm to allow the end to be folded by 90 degrees.
4.Attach debris guard to shield.
5.Carefully insert Micro SD jack into appropriate slot.
6.Fix to lid via 2 x existing M3 hex bolts.

Printing:

1.The main body is printed vertically and does not need any supports. Dependent on build surface it may need a raft, all my prototypes worked fine without any raft.
2.Body printed @ 50mms 0.2 resolution and 20 % infill (Ender 5).
3.Grille printed @ 30mms, 0.12 layer height, 100% infill.
4.End stop printed @ 30mms, 0.12 layer height, 20% infill.

Ender 3 SD Card Adapter Housing with Fan Cowl\Shield

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4894561.

Update 20\07\21: Uploaded Blade Duct with a notch to the left hand side to clear the heater cables in a stock hot end configuration. Based on sketches from a fellow member but not personally tested. I have not undertaken any air flow simulation for this update but the resultant restriction to the duct is fairly minimal.

Update 18\07\21: Uploaded step of parts including my modified V6 adapter mount.

This is a revised X Carriage Mount and fan duct for the Prusa Mini and clones. Apologies in advance if there is already something similar on Thingiverse that I have not noticed.

This thing IMHO improves the part cooling of the Hot End by providing focused symmetrical cooling to either side of the nozzle rather than the stock design pushing air to the rear of the nozzle and in some instances cooling the heater block rather than the part.

The Mk1 design cools quite well but a lot of the focus is not centred to just below the nozzle. After 30 plus test designs and CFD simulations this version provides much better focus to the target without too much air restriction. I am currenting printing 3D Benchies @ only 60% fan speed with sufficient part cooling.

The design includes a removable Blade Duct assembly to allow for ease of changing and maintaining nozzles. The assembly is based on a M3 thermal insert and a M3 x 8mm hex bolt. To achieve this design I also had to modify the Pinda Mount Bracket to clear the left hand duct. 

THIS VERSON IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THE V1 AND ALL PARTS REQUIRE 
REPRINTING.

In the Duct Base Mount I have replaced the rear square nut cavity for the Pinda Mount with a M3 thermal insert in the Base mount because the slot made the part weak and was continually splitting.

In my tests\porotypes the parts fit very snuggly and there is no air bleed. If this is not the case after printing with these parts a small amount of Vaseline or similar on the connecting faces will probably cure this.

I have only tried this with my V6 based variation but cannot really see why this should not work for the stock setup. So untested with the stock heat sink and nozzle arrangement.

The parts do not need support if printed in the uploaded orientation except for the Blade duct which requires some custom supports to the duct apertures around the central fin.. There are some some surfaces that push the boundaries of draft angles but these are inherent of the original prusa design parts and not of choosing or design.

The test print so far IMHO are much improved and both my water nozzle tests and the 32 Sim Scale CFD simulations I have undertaken have the air flow right in the ball park just below the centre of the nozzle which is usually a good indictor to suggest good part cooling rather than cooling the nozzle or heater block.

The following test is to visually confirm the air flow of the part cooling fan duct design is directly below the nozzle in support of the theoretical Simscale CFD tests undertaken during the process of this design.

Link to V2 water test: https://youtu.be/plF7qLFFh5Q

Link to M3 Thread Insert Used (Amazon UK Site): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07LBR79VH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link to Pleomin`s remix for a Bondtech heat break:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4947021/comments#comment-5704246

Prusa Mini Detachable Cooling Duct Assembly V2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3325862.

I received a roll of TPU for Christmas and was inspired by Biolooks Air Duster to produce my own set of Air Dusters. I am really into photography so the fine tip duster will be great for Camera and Lens cleaning.

In this design I have:

1.Included an integral thread to both Bellows and cap to provide a strong relatively airtight seal.
2.Sculpted bellows to make them easier to squeeze. Included some ribs to maintain bellows shape.
3.Included an all in one piece design.
4.Provided two types of interchangeable caps for fine and general use.
5.Included to sizes of bellows.
6.Uploaded bellows with two different wall thicknesses - 1.6mm & 1.2mm dependant on print capability and required stiffness of bellows.

Print Settings

1.No Supports required.
2.Bellows printed with 2 perimeters @ 0.2& 0.3 resolution @ 40mms. I set the slicer to have no infill for the majority of the part but included an 80% infill to the top of the bellows and thread area.
3.TPU used: Sunlu White TPU 1.75mm. The Sunlu prints well but due to the type of filament I noticed that the pre wound TPU stuck to itself and did cause some problems with extruding the TPU. I found unwinding and rewinding the filament a little more loosely helped. 
4.Caps printed @ 0.2 resolution with 20%-30% infill.

I found that the 1.6 mm bellows @ 0.2 resolution printed much better than the 1.2 thick versions and created a greater force when compressed although stronger hands are required. The 1.2 versions printed Ok but struggled a little in terms of print quality on the overhangs\angled elements. The TPU on all versions prototypes printed worked has designed. I printed the bellows prototypes on a wahhau Duplicator i3 Plus due to it being a direct drive printer and the caps on a Creality CR10S.

Air Blower\Duster for Electronics\Camera\Computer\Hobby

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4253359.

I have classed this has WIP because although I have tested the assembly in a mock up to prove the parts work. I have not yet installed on any of my printers has they are too busy printing Face Shields at the moment. I have also included a step file for those that want to tweak the design.

This is a remix of my Hydra Fan Duct to allow the mounting of a V6 Hot End. Please note this thing is the Duct Bases for the Ender 3\CR10 & Ender 5 combined with the V6 Heat Sink Clamp, BL Touch Brackets & Tool Heads. The various ducts can be found at the original thing at the following link: Due to the V6 Heat sink having to move 5.5 mm forward to clear the stock mounting plate\thread inserts the previous Hydra Duct Bases and Tool Heads are not compatible. The original Hydra Ducts will fit this remix.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242

General

1.I have retained the M3 socket based connectivity to provide continuity with the original thing.
2.The V6 nozzle is 5.5 mm forward than the stock nozzle, this is due to the heat sink clearing the stock mounting bracket and not the duct base design.
3.I am not sure how the pointless oversized connector that comes with the thermistor cable of the E3D V6 original version will work in context to the wire management routes, I still need to try this. I may use a long lead and another thermistor if this is an issue. There is quite a lot of space just above the heat sink to the left so I do not envisage this being a big problem.
4.The BL Touch brackets are based on the one I have but may not be the correct height for all. They may need further personal modification to suit. Perhaps a slotted version for adjustment.

Hardware

In addition to the items listed in the original Hydra Installation Guides BOM you will need in addition 2 x 20mm long M3 Hex Bolts and M3 Nylocs to fix the 2 parts of the Heat Sink clamp together. You will also require an additional 2 x 12 mm long M3 Hex bolts and Nylocs to fasten the V6 Clamp to the Duct Base. If using the BL Touch brackets a further 2 M3 x 8 mm - 10 mm long Nylocs will be required.

Printing

As per the original the parts do not need any support. I have however included some sacrificial layers within the horizontally printed nut sockets to aid bridging. These will need the hole cleaning prior to assembly ( refer to original thing installation guides). The second BL Touch mount may require a raft to provide stability when printing vertically.

My general print settings were 0.2 layer height, 3 perimeters @ 30% infill.
Printed with SunLu Yellow PETG & BQ White PETG on a Hypercube Evo & Ender 3 Pro.

Update 02\04\20
Revised awkward detail for better printing on the Duct Rear Base for Both the Ender 3 & 5. Replaces Version V6B with V6C

Update 10\04\20
Uploaded a series of parts with M3 Brass thermal inserts rather than Nylocs ( parts with allserts @ the end of the file name). I have included 2 versions of the front clamp (front clamp 3) has the nyloc version is still the more robust due to the location of the nuts. This is still WIP I have prototyped the parts successfully but not yet installed. Inserts used below:

Update 04\07\21 Uploaded step files for the Ender 5 Base Ducts.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PMZCP23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Useful Links to Derivatives:

1. joinatividad` V2 Remix  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4652005


Hydra Fan Duct & Tool Change V6 Edition

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650517.

This is a Core XY conversion kit for the Ender 5 with Linear rails

There is a MK2 version here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4777606

Big shout out to Scott3D for his fabulous work on the Hypercube Evo which I have taken the belt tensioner detail from and a massive thanks to barnabyQ for his Ender 5 Pro 3D model over on Grabcad. This made things so much easier. Also to fellow Thingiverse member the_cook for inspiring me to use the rails.

I have spent quite a long time developing the XY joiner parts and they seem to be holding up well. One of the largest hurdles was conceiving a simple but strong assembly for the forward Idlers ( all parts are available form Amazon). I could probably tweak the belt tension further but its a balance with a Core XY machine.

I struggled with the stock stepper motors particularly with the dual Y motor which got incredibly hot , nearly to PETG melting and caused a lot of layer distortion in the first print. I have since replaced both with standard Creality 42-40 and all is good and running really cool.

The firmware changes were relatively simple, there are only a few comments to tweak. I did however have to invert the direction of the X & Y motors. Uncommenting Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES & Z_HOMING_HEIGHT stopped the Z axis from trying to drop to clear when homing. I have included my config file within the upload for reference.

The hot end mounting plate is universal with 5 back fixing holes and 4 forward fixing holes. I have included also for an optical end stop which is going to be my next job to help tidy up the Ender 5s messy wire management. I have uploaded a step file of the mounting plate for ease of adaption to other hot end designs.

The conversion will easily allow for the stock 220 x220 build volume and allows for the full 235 x235 dependent on duct design (My Manta design looses about 5mm at the front and side with 5015 fans, should be Ok with 4010 fans there is plenty spare at the rear. There is also a small height gain of approximately 5mm.

I have since attached a Optical End Stop to the X axis to tidy up all the cables. I had to extend a 1 metre cable to do this and provide a separate power feed to a spare 5v pin on my BTT E3 Mini board.

I have also remixed a fixed variant of my Slim Display Housing to sit inboard of the Ender 5 Frame here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650597

I have been printing with this for about a week now and generally the design is holding up well and the prints are good quality. Caveat, my Ender 5 printed well prior to the conversion but the new set up does appear to allow for faster print speeds whilst retaining quality. I have printed several prints in excess of 6 hours with no problems.

I do get some slight bearing noise from the Y axis from my inexpensive Aliexpress Linear Rails but this is no different from my high quality roller bearings on my HEVO due to the lateral tension of the belts. I will obviously monitor this. May have the belts a little too tight. With my brief Core XY experience I would consider this normal on the Y axis.

Edit:23\01\21

This was not a linear Rail issue, the noise was coming from the forward idler pulleys. This threw me a little because it was only occurring on the Y travel but of course in Core XY terms this is when both forward pulleys are rotating opposite to each other. Anyway I have since replaced the forward steel washers with nylon ones (M5 x 15 x 1mm ) and the travel noise has completely gone away. Well worth the effort, this can be achieved with just loosening the belts and replacing the washers individually in situ.

Installation

1.I have classed this has WIP because I have not yet been able to provide a detailed installation guide. I have however included a high res exploded infographic for the assembly and a sample BOM for the parts in the upload to get you started.

2.The Bill of Materials is only indicative and the relevant parts could be purchased much more cost effectively at the likes of Aliexpress. I had most of the parts in stock so personally this conversation cost very little.

3.The forward idlers are created by removing the front to M5 2020 frame fixings and replace them with a 80mm threaded bar. This is a very simple but strong foundation for the front idlers. I have not seen any side effect in rigidity terms but you may want to attach some additional corner brackets if concerned about the rigidity of the frame overall.

4.With XY joiners there is no perfect print orientation due to the stress by the belts on both axis. I have therefore included 2 x 50 mm long M3 tie bolts which fasten across the print grain to help reduce delamination of the layers. I have found out of experience any many prototypes with my HEVO that this little mechanical indulgence is well worth it in terms of longevity.

Printing

1.All parts print without supports. There are some sacrificial layers across some holes to help bridging which will require cleaning through.

2.If adopting the optional Optical end stop there is a bridging detail that requires trimming with a knife or hacksaw (see the infographic) - do not use side cutters it may split the part, I can confirm this from experience !

3.Due to the belt tension applied these parts need to be printed quite strongly. Therefore I have printed all parts with at least 30% infill and 3 layers. I would suggest all parts near to the hot end and bed should be printed in PETG whilst others will be fine in PLA if sufficient layers and perimeters are adopted.

4.Printed with Amazon Basics Yellow PETG @2.5 layer height, 40 mms on various 
printers.

Quick Tips

1.The Belt Tensioner assembly is much easier to put together with the printer on its front and therefore facing the parts laid flat. Leave a reasonable amount of spare belt for tensioning before trimming the belt.

2.Use a M3 tap to clear all the plastic from the thread inserts prior to assembly, it makes life much easier.

3.The thermal inserts I have used have an average OD of 5.2 mm. Therefore I use a 4.7mm insertion hole. Smaller inserts may require a smaller hole size. They are listed in the BOM.

4.Do not overtighten the belts, they can stand quite a lot but it may reduce the print quality.


Test Video Here: https://youtu.be/GUwfUaiC5Nc

Update 02_01_21: 
Uploaded Forward LH\RH Idler Guards.




Ender 5 Core XY with Linear Rails

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2837159.

This is a Picture frame to Frame a Mini light Box and 3D printed Lithophane image. Mini Light Box can be purchased here:https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0767LGTZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is inspired by Ryborg`s frame but completely remodelled in Fusion 360 and SU18 to produce a totally clean model.
I have included corner section model in both Fusion 360 and SketchUp (V8) within the files to allow model ratio to be changed through scaling individual sides and then mirroring component to make frame to suit.

Picture frame for Mini Lithophane light Box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3397146.

This is a SD card adapter housing for the Creality Ender 5. This thing includes:

1.Integral clips which locate into the 2020 extrusions so there is no requirement for any additional fixings.

2.Integrated clip to Lid to stop any transverse movement.

3.Holes for cable ties to help tidy ribbon.

4.Integrated storage slots for both SD and Micro SD cards.

5.Card insertion symbol and USB symbol.


The SD Card Adapter Used in links below:

Amazon UK site:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C84YKVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tv-auto-20

International Site:

https://www.amazon.com/LANMU-Extension-Flexible-Monoprice-Raspberry/dp/B01D9JIUU0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549048389&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=LANMU+Micro+SD+to+SD+Card+Extension+Cable&psc=1
Printing Instructions

1.Both things do not require any support but due to the printing orientation they both need rafts.

2.Printed @0.2 resolution with 20% infil (some images were printed @.01 resolution).

Useful Links:

Chris2527 published a infill adapter insert for a micro SD: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4589935

Update:22\04\19
Uploaded a version of the lid without an Ender logo

Update: 22\05\20
Uploaded Step Files

SD Card adapter housing for the Creality Ender 5

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3145802.

This is a remix of an earlier design but using a third less plastic and providing an alternative aesthetic (a third less including custom supports).
The Remote stand has been designed to house the following

Samsung Standard TV Remote
Samsung Smart Remote
Sky TV Remote
Fire TV Remote
Generic Blu-Ray Remote
Mini Bluetooth Keyboard
Additional Cavity for other Remote or Key Fob.

I have also included a model with integrated supporrts to support the front and rear bands when printing. There is also an uploaded a model without supports if you would prefer to apply your own custom supports.

Printed on a Creality CR10S @ 0.2 resolution, 15% infil, no additional supports required if using the model with intergrated supports. A little cleaning of of upper areas of apertures where there is some bridging may be required.


TV Remote Stand\Holder 2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4425580.

This is a remix of my compact dual 4010 duct assembly for the Hypercube Evolution. My third version which includes:

1.Improved & reduced size ducts.
2.Reduced mass to mounting bracket.
3.Additional extended Ducts, BL Touch Mount & WM cable grip for a Volcano Hot End.

Original Features:

1.The overall width of this things is only 6 mm wider than the original Scott3d assembly so therefore should not offset too much build volume. The position of the X endstop adds to this making an overall reduction of approximately 10mm
3.The fan ducts are based generally on my recent Hydra Duct design.
4.The offsets for the BLTouch are x= 22 y= -37. There are two brackets, one allows for use with the provided springs.
5.This can be used in conjunction with my revised XY Joiners at this link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4245532

6.The other components required can be found at the original thing here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4222420
I have included a step file if anyone wants to use this has a base for their own design.
Printed in Amazon Basics Red PETG on and Ender 3 Pro.
M3 thermal inserts used:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PMZCP23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Useful Accessories:

I remixed this great thing by kulfuerst with a scallop in the right hand side to allow more clearance for the heater cables in some of my compact 4010 fan duct designs. I also included an additional amount of material to the top edge of the duct to provide some additional strength when clipping. It may be better to attach the fan prior to clipping to the heatsink has the fan fixings will reinforce the part
I have found the additional clip enhancements for the Dragon provides improved grip to the V6 heat sink. I have not yet tested sufficiently to comment on the longevity of the part but if the fan is doing its job printing in PETG or stronger should be sufficient.
Its not totally necessary but does help stop the RH duct being pushed out asymmetrically

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4426090

Printing:

1.All parts do not require additional support although in 2 things, the BL Touch mounts and the main Duct Base I have for ease integrated some built in support which will need removing when printed (see uploaded images).
2.The ducts are printed at 45 degrees. You may require a raft to provided additional stability dependent on settings ( all my prototypes printed fine without a brim or raft).
3.Printed @ 0.2 layer height @ 30mms with Amazon Basics Red & Black PETG.

Hypercube Evolution Compact Dual 4010 Duct V3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4609997.

Update: 02\09\21 Uploaded a Plain Body part with a revised step detail to make the top bridging more reliable. The step detail is based on a 0.25mm layer height. Therefore for the best results print this part at 0.25mm or set your slicer to print the last 5mm at 0.25mm layer height.

Update:18\10\20 Uploaded WIP bodies with a slotted lower fix if there is any variation with the print or Printer assembly. I stress these are work in progress I have not printed or tested. There may be some slight cleaning of the bridge to the slot post print.

Update: 12\11\20 Uploaded larger Plain Body & Packer (XL Versions) which increases the body depth by 5mm to allow for longer ribbon cables. This is WIP I have not tested this version.

This is a revised version of my Compact SD Card Adapter for the Ender 3 Pro & V2

I am quite pleased with the evolution of this thing, the design is much better than the previous in many ways:

1.Single unibody design which is faster to print.

2.Hinged hatch makes ribbon cable tidying much easier and much less strain on the onboard card socket. USB connector access via hatch also.

3.Much more effective and simpler attaching to the printer using only one M3 x6 mm hex bolt.

4.Right hand side hole knock out for a right angled USB Cable.

5.SD Card storage slot.

6.Simple adapter retention.

7.Transverse rebate detail which allows a clean break for dual colour printing to aid further customisation.

Installation

1.I have included a brief Installation Guide within the published files but this thing basically hooks onto the edge of the front panel and fixes using the adjacent M3 board cover screw on the underside of the printer. This provides a very simple but very effective fix.

2.There is a small packer\hook which holds the adapter in place and also acts as a stop for the card storage slot. This really only needs to be held in place during assembly. It will be retained by the printer`s body. A small amount of double sided tape to hold in place during assembly may make life a little easier.

3.Adapter used with this thing, select the shorter\130 mm version : 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0855DBVXF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Printing:

1.No supports required, print in the orientation uploaded.

2.Printed with PLA @ 0.2 layer height, 25% infill. I printed @ 30mms to provide a good finish.

3.Printed on my Ender 3 V2 with:
Amazon Basics Silver PLA
Eryone Orange PLA
Prima Value Dark Grey PLA
Amazon Basics Blue PLA
Amazon Basics Black PLA

4.The dual colour separation height for the main body is 53.6 mm.

Ender 3 Pro V2 Compact SD Card Adapter Housing V4

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3860166.

This is a pivoting Oiler for the Ender 5. Primary features are:

1.Dual pivoting bracket to allow Oiler to move with filament when spooling.

2.Screw on top cap to retain filament and sponge.

3.Simple fix to 40 x 20 extrusion.

Installation Notes:

1.You will need the following:

2 x M3 Nyloc Nuts
2x M3 x 12 mm Hex Bolts (10mm will work but better with 12mm long bolts). 
2 M3 x 1.5 mm Washers
2 x M4 x 10 mm Hex Bolts
2 x 10 x 5 M4 T-Nuts - these are the type of T Nut which can be inserted within the slot and rotated rather than inserting from the end of the extrusion. If you do not have any of these spare I have also uploaded a plastic version of the T-Nut which will be sufficiently strong for this purpose only. I have used the uploaded plastic version on my prototype. You will need to thread the plastic T-Nuts with a M4 Bolt prior to assembly.

2.Make sure the M3 pivot bolts are left fairly loose so to allow the oiler to move easily when the spool is moving.

3.Cap\Body thread made need a bit of lubrication on first assembly to help first time.

4.The M3 washers are used has a simple bearings to help the pivots rotate.

Print Settings:

1.All parts printed on Ender 3 Pros with PLA, generally printed @ 25% infill and 2 perimeters. The Plastic T-Nuts and Slotted Pivot Bracket were printed @ 100%, 3 perimeters @ a 210 C to aid strength.



Pivoting Oiler for Ender 5

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4222398.

This is a motherboard enclosure & TFT display case that I recently designed for my Hypercube Evolution Build.

The Board was originally designed for the BigTree Tech SKR V1.4 board and the BBT 3.5 dual mode TFT.

I have also included various lid designs and a set of removable access ports which means technically that things do not need disconnecting to install but that will be a big ask.

The design includes a SD card adaptor housing for ease and protection of the board mounted Micro SD reader.

These things are very personal so I have uploaded step files to allow others to use has a base design for their own derivatives.

A beast to print @ over 25 hours ! With stuff like this big is best! Plenty of room for revision and cable management. Printed with Amazon Basics Red PETG on an Ender 3 Pro.

M3 thermal inserts used on this thing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PMZCP23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



PCB & Display Enclosure for 3030 Extrusion SKR V1.4 & 3.5 TFT

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4222420.

This is a compact dual 4010 duct assembly for the Hypercube Evolution.

1.Please note: I use sensor less homing for the X Axis so therefore to date have not included any allowance for an optical end stop. I am not totally happy with the current arrangement so will be looking at the inclusion of a traditional\optical  end stop in the future.

2.The overall width of this things is only 6 mm wider than the original Scott3d assembly so therefore should not offset too much build volume.

3.The fan ducts are based generally on my recent Hydra Duct design.

4.The offsets for the BLTouch are x= 22 y= -37. The bracket allows for use with the provided springs.

I have included a step file if anyone wants to use this has a base for their own design.

Printed in Amazon Basics Red PETG on and Ender 3 Pro.

M3 thermal inserts used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PMZCP23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hypercube Evolution Compact Dual 4010 Duct Assembly

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4624670.

There is a newer version of this thing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4635067

Update:18\10\20 I had noticed some differences with the alignment of the touch panel on the BTT display with my various units. I have therefore offset the fascia panels of my original design by 1.9 mm to be in alignment with the BTT schematic of the display which I am hoping is correct. All parts ending in V1.1. 

This is a Display housing for the BTT 35 TFT E3 & Stock Ender 3 & 5 Displays which includes a pivot function to aid viewing angles. Ideal for work areas with awkward lighting or when the printer is installed at a higher elevation like a shelf.

In addition to pivoting this housing also includes:

1.Storage for an additional Standard & Micro SD Card.

2.Access to the onboard display USB socket.

3.Onboard Display Reset Button.

4.I have also included a basic side panel that just as a slot to the onboard SD reader if you do not wish to use a SD Card Adapter.

5.Display Housing Design for the Ender 3 & 5 stock Display

6.Display Housing Design for the Ender 5

7.Ribbon Clip to tidy the Ribbon Cable and prevent snagging.

Installation Notes

1.The Ender 5 version will require an longer ribbon\serial cable compared to stock. 400 mm is spot on..

2.I always suggest using a SD card adapter to protect the onboard SD card reader from wear & tear. knacker the onboard reader and its a new board! For the BTT TFT35 I use this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C8EDHE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3.I will try and upload a more in depth Installation guide when time allows.

4.The holes for the T slots are M5 but M4 will also work if more readily available.

5.You will need 7 x M3 thermal inserts:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01GO4O0OW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6.If using the card adapter insert into the board before assembling the housing. Likewise insert the reset button before assembling the housing.

7.Use grease rather than oil to lubricate the 3D printed threads. You may need to use the Pivot Knob as a Tap the first time used to free\clear the thread.

8.On an Ender 3 V2 you may need a longer ribbon cable or cable extension to achieve the full 90 degrees pivot.

9.Make sure all the bridging on the inside of the Reset Button is clear or it may bottom and not function correctly.

10.I have included some slots in the back of the base under the cable apertures for cable ties to help wire management. It is worth inserting the ties first before fixing the base panel to the assembly.

11.You will need various M3 Hex Bolts including 6 mm, 8 mm and 10 mm.

12.With the Pivot Knob tightening from plastic to plastic faces the knob grips quite easily so the knob does not need to be over tightened to arrest the pivot.

13.There does appear to be some movement between the display circuit board & the actual touch screen panel. I have noticed that due to this one of my display menus are slightly offset. I am not sure what to suggest here other than tweaking the position of the touch panel if the screen appears to be offset.

Printing

1.All Casing elements printed @ 0.2 layer height, 25% infill and 2 perimeters. Smaller pieces and both knobs 100% infill. 

2.Print the Base Panel & Extrusion Mount with at least 3 perimeters and 30% Infill. Personally I used 4 perimeters and 30% infill to maximise rigidity and reduce any potential flexing.

3.As per previous designs there are some sacrificial layers to holes to help bridging, they will need clearing prior to assembly.

4.The Upper panel as a integrated support foot to help stability which will need removing with side cutters.

5.To take advantage of the BTT LED illumination for the Control Knob you can dual colour print the knob with Clear PLA at the base. You may need to enlarge the Lower Panel hole a little to maximise the LED illumination.

Printed with AMZ3D Black PLA
Amazon Basics Blue PLA
Eryone Orange PLA
Amazon Basics Red PETG

Printed on my HEVO, Ender V2, Ender 5 & CR10S.

The matching SD Card Adapter can be found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4609997




Pivoting Display for Ender 3 - Pro  - V2 - Ender 5 - BTT 35TFT & Stock

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4635129.

Update:27\10\20:
Revised the main body part with an additional 0.5 mm clearance to the Card Adapter apertures to allow for any bridging distortion.

Having upgraded my CR10S with a BTT 35 TFT I was frustrated that the existing Control Box Limited the accessibility of some of the ports and therefore features of the Display.

I therefore designed this console to allow access to the Display USB & SD Card Reader and the Onboard USB\ Micro SD Reader but also to incorporate 2 x SD Card Adapters to save wear & tear on the respective integral Card Readers.

I have also included 2 x SD storage slots into the display frame.

Installation:

1.I have included a basic installation guide within the thing files but basically the LH side of the display frame is retained within the existing Control Box Display aperture and fixed with one of the existing M4 bolts currently holding the PSU to the control box.

2.Having the hinged Lids it is much easier to access but still be careful with inserting the SD Adapters particularly the Onboard Mic SD so not to damage anything.

3.BOM\Links to suggested SD Card Adapters in the Installation Guide.

4.Make sure the bridging where the SD Card Adapters are retained is even, clean up if sagging. If the Readers are a tight fit remove the 2 runners printed on the opposite side to the bridging to ease the fit. It should preferably be snug but if the interference is too tight it may split a very long print!

Printing:

1.Main Body printed @ 40 mms / 0.25 layer height / 2 perimeters with 20% infill which took approximately 6.5 hours.

2.Display Frame printed @ 30mms /0.2 layer height / 2 perimeters with 20% infill.

3.Control Knob printed with 100% infill. @ 20mms.

4.No supports are required but I have included an integrated foot to the main body to reduce the risk of warping. This will need removing prior to assembly.

5.Printed with AMZ3D Black PLA and Amazon Basics Yellow PETG. The main body does not need to be PETG it was just to match the rest of my CR10 livery.

6.The main M4 fixing hole does have a sacrificial layer to aid bridging which will need cleaning out prior to assembly. The sacrificial layer is set to 0.25 layer height so if you print at a different layer height there might be some slight stringing but should still print with an acceptable finish.

7.For the best finish I would suggest printing to the uploaded orientation

8.I have included a blank step file of the hinged lid for personal customisation.

9.There are linear rebate details in both the main body and the display frame which will allow a clean print break for dual colour printing if further personalisation is desirable.

CR10 Display Console for the BTT 35 TFT E3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4514948.

This is a variation on my Compact dual fan assembly which includes a direct drive mount instead of a Bowden feed.

I have only produced a bracket for the Creality Dual Gear Extruder so far. I have included a step file for the relevant parts if you wish to modify to suit your own preference of extruder.

The basic mount can also be used for a Bowden system if the direct drive mounting bracket is removed and used as per the V3 design.

You will require various size M3 nuts and bolts and 15 x M3 Thermal Thread Inserts for the base mounting bracket. The inserts used:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01GO4O0OW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To use the direct drive mount you will need to reprint the base unit for this to work as the V2 or V3 are not comapatible. The V6 and WM clamps are compatible from the V3 version.

Printed on an Ender 3 Pro with Red Amazon Basics PETG. Printed with 30% infill, 3 perimeters @ 0.2 layer height.

Hypercube Evolution Compact Dual 4010 Direct Drive Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4635067.

30\10\20 Uploaded missing top & Bottom Panels for the BTT version.

This is a remix of my Pivoting Display Housing but I have redesigned with a much slimmer profile.

The original can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4624670

This is a Display housing for the BTT 35 TFT E3 & Stock Ender 3 & 5 Displays which includes a pivot function to aid viewing angles. Ideal for work areas with awkward lighting or when the printer is installed at a higher elevation like a shelf.

In addition to pivoting this housing also includes:

1.Storage for an additional Standard & Micro SD Card.

2.Access to the onboard display USB socket.

3.Onboard Display Reset Button.

4.I have also included a basic side panel that just as a slot to the onboard SD reader if you do not wish to use a SD Card Adapter.

5.Display Housing Design for the Ender 3 & 5 stock Display

6.Display Housing Design for the Ender 5

7.Ribbon Clip to tidy the Ribbon Cable and prevent snagging.

Installation Notes

1.The Ender 5 version will require an longer ribbon\serial cable compared to stock. 400 mm is spot on..

2.I always suggest using a SD card adapter to protect the onboard SD card reader from wear & tear. knacker the onboard reader and its a new board! For the BTT TFT35 I use this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C8EDHE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3.I will try and upload a more in depth Installation guide when time allows.

4.The holes for the T slots are M5 but M4 will also work if more readily available.

5.You will need 7 x M3 thermal inserts:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01GO4O0OW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6.If using the card adapter insert into the board before assembling the housing. Likewise insert the reset button before assembling the housing.

7.Use grease rather than oil to lubricate the 3D printed threads. You may need to use the Pivot Knob as a Tap the first time used to free\clear the thread.

8.On an Ender 3 V2 you may need a longer ribbon cable or cable extension to achieve the full 90 degrees pivot.

9.Make sure all the bridging on the inside of the Reset Button is clear or it may bottom and not function correctly.

10.I have included a slot in the back of the base under the cable apertures for cable ties to help wire management. It is worth inserting the ties first before fixing the base panel to the assembly.

11.You will need various M3 Hex Bolts including 6 mm, 8 mm and 10 mm.

12.With the Pivot Knob tightening from plastic to plastic faces the knob grips quite easily so the knob does not need to be over tightened to arrest the pivot.

13.There does appear to be some movement between the display circuit board & the actual touch screen panel. I have noticed that due to this one of my display menus are slightly offset. I am not sure what to suggest here other than tweaking the position of the touch panel if the screen appears to be offset.

Printing

1.All Casing elements printed @ 0.2 layer height, 25% infill and 2 perimeters. Smaller pieces and both knobs 100% infill.

2.Print the Base Panel & Extrusion Mount with at least 3 perimeters and 30% Infill. Personally I used 4 perimeters and 30% infill to maximise rigidity and reduce any potential flexing.

3.As per previous designs there are some sacrificial layers to holes to help bridging, they will need clearing prior to assembly.

4.The Upper panel as a integrated support foot to help stability which will need removing with side cutters.

5.To take advantage of the BTT LED illumination for the Control Knob you can dual colour print the knob with Clear PLA at the base. You may need to enlarge the Lower Panel hole a little to maximise the LED illumination.

Printed with AMZ3D Black PLA
Amazon Basics Blue PLA
Eryone Orange PLA
Amazon Basics Red PETG

Printed on my HEVO, Ender V2, Ender 5 & CR10S.

The matching SD Card Adapter can be found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4609997

Slim Pivoting Display Housing for the Ender 3 & 5

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3959782.

This is specific to the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro,  currently some BMG cloned extruders conflict with the Z screw and therefore cannot be used unless mounted with an additional angle bracket.

This is a simple wedge fillet or spacer that will offset the mounting of a BMG Clone extruder by 4 degrees allowing it to be mounted to the stepper motor in the correct orientation without an additional angle bracket.

Although a simple solution you will need 3 x M3 x 40mm machine head hex bolts has the stock bolts that come with the cloned extruders will be too short.

The gear that is fastened to the stepper motor needs to be moved another 6mm so it is approximately 9.5 mm from the motor edge rather than the suggested 3.5mm. This will bring the top of the gear to virtually the top of the motor shaft.

I printed these (you will require a pair) in PETG with 3 perimeters and 40 % infill. I also printed the slope \ angled element with a 1.2 mm layer height to increase the accuracy of the angle.

Ender 3 BMG Clone Offset Mounting Wedge

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3200401.

Remix of davidreeb`s excellent 1st Gen Echo Show stand. 

This remix has been completely reworked in Fusion 360. I have increased width to allow for 
the larger 2nd gen unit and revised shape to reduce plastic content and print time.
Due to the very robust bass drivers in the 2nd gen unit I would recommend attaching some felt pads to the base to reduce potential vibration transfer.


Printed at 0.2 resolution and 20% infill, no support required.

Echo Show 2nd Generation Adjustable Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3035490.

Pebble Time Round Charging Cradle

For you people that are lucky enough to still own a working Pebble Time Round this is another charging cradle to sit the watch upon whilst charging.
A cantilevered ribbon design with integral cable management.

Printing


1.The cantilevered design is quite springy and therefore I suggest using a 20% minimum  infil percentage. It prints well at 0.2.

2.This thing will print without support but it may not a with a very good finish on the lead edges. I recommend using either custom supports or the integrated custom support model included. The model with the break away integral support provides a good finish but does increase the plastic usage and print time.

Pebble Time Round Charging Cradle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4461496.

Now compatible with the Ender 3 V2

This is a remix of my Side Mounted Spool Holder which prints faster and is easier to assemble.

I have uploaded 2 variations they both effectively do the same job, one uses slightly less plastic.

I have slightly changed the mounting angle for ease of assembly and printing but the spool position is exactly the same as the previous version.

You will need 3 x M5 x 12-16 mm Bolts + Nuts to attach the stock Ender 3 spool holder to the thing. You will also need 2 - 4 M4 x 10 mm Bolts + T nuts to fix into the side 2020 extrusion.

Printed with Amazon Basics Orange PETG, 235C, 70C Bed,.05 resolution, 40mms, 30% infill and 2 perimeters with a 0.8 nozzle. For a 0.4 nozzle increase the perimeters to 3 and print @ 0.2.5 - 0.3 mm layer height.

Update:17\08\20 Uploaded new versions with all M5 holes and increased clearance of existing holes. Included versions for the Ender 3 V2 which is 6mm higher. 

Ender 3 - Ender 3 Pro Side Mounted Spool Holder V3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3498676.

This is a remix of my Dyson accessory holder but designed to retain the node articulation but printed in one single print.

The V2 is probably more visually elegant and efficient to print - this version was has much a design challenge rather than trying to totally reinvent the thing.

Printing Instructions

Printed @0.2 resolution on a Ender 5 with a 0.4 nozzle and prototyped on a CR10S with a 0.8 nozzle. The thing was printed with 3 perimeters and 25% infill to provide some strength..

The connector node requires some custom support as it is not flat to the bed. The rest of the thing does not require any additional supports (see uploaded image).

Being one single print, prints times are quite long. The prototype printed with a 0.8 nozzle took 8 hours and the 0.4 nozzle version 17 hours. 

Dyson Accessory Mount/Holder V3 - Single Print

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4426090.

I remixed this great thing by kulfuerst with a scallop in the right hand side to allow more clearance for the heater cables in some of my compact 4010 fan duct designs. I also included an additional amount of material to the top edge of the duct to provide some additional strength when clipping. It may be better to attach the fan prior to clipping to the heatsink has the fan fixings will reinforce the part

I have found the additional clip enhancements for the Dragon provides improved grip to the V6 heat sink. I have not yet tested sufficiently to comment on the longevity of the part but if the fan is doing its job printing in PETG or stronger should be sufficient.

Printed :@ 100% infill with Amazon Basics Red PETG

V6 Dragon Hotend Fan Shroud with Heater Cable Clearance

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2870132.

A variation on previous designs. This is a Picture frame to Frame a Mini light Box and 3D printed Lithophane image or simply mount lithophane and use daylight to illuminate image. 
The revised model also reduces the amount of material\time required to print the `Finished part of the product.
The supoort frame will allow for 3-5 mm thick lithophanes but anything larger than 3mm the nipples on the inner face of mounting frame will require some trimming. Lithophane overall dimensions = 100 mm x 90 mm
Mini Light Box can be purchased here:https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0767LGTZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Flexible LIthophane Picture Frame

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5002555.

This is a travel case for a rotary pencil sharpener to prevent the graphite filings contaminating your Art Bag when traveling. The sharpener can be still used when inserted into the case. The lid may need cleaning now and again.

Printed with Amazon Basics Blue PLA. Due to the thread being quite large the rims may need a little post print cleaning. The parts do not require support.  

Rotary Pencil Sharpener Travel Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2760563.

Update: 22_03_18   File: BD62-3mm_22_03_18.stl

Raised base of duct an additional 3mm from the Build plate to allow greater clearance if using Bulldog Clips to hold glass plate down. Clip nearest to home may still require pulling off a little to totally clear nozzle in home position.

Cooling duct for Balco TouchWanhao Duplicator i3 Cooling Duct:40mm a remix of BliNDF123
 Wanhao Duplicator i3 Cooling Duct: 30mm and 40mm. The model was completely reworked in Sketchup.
In this remix I have:
1. Reconfigured mounting centres.
2. Externalised M3 bolt fixings to allow easier fitting.
3. Included M3 Bolt retention sockets to reduce the need for additional tools.
4. Angled walls in the skirt aperture slot to allow for printing without the need for support. Please note support is still required in the main section of the duct and the Nut recesses. I have also included the gcode with a customised support structure (Print Temp:200Bed:70x160 after).
The model will print vertically without support but with some deformation to the top and bottom edges of the skirt.
The M3 Bolts and nuts used are similar to the following:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AXM377I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AWDSTPS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The M3 nuts being small are a little fiddly to lock into the sockets. I found it was easier to attached bolt through the flange and pull the nut into position.
I have only yet printed in PLA+ but the duct ring is quite close to the extruder assembly so I will monitor to see if there is any distortion due to ambient temperature.


Balco Touch\Wanhao Duplicator i3 Cooling Duct:40mm

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2843332.

Simple open picture frame to hold a Lithophane 3D printed image (No light source - requires to be positioned near light i.e Placed on window Sill.

Fits Lithophane size 100mm x 90mm x 4 mm thick.

Support\stand components are bonded to rear of frame. Registration mark included within model to help align support brackets.

Open Picture Frame for Lithophane Images

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3967701.

Jan 2020: It may be worth checking out my latest design - Hydra Fan Duct & Tool Change System which IMHO is far better in a lot of ways than this Hero Me remix. Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242

Update:23\11\19

Uploaded Direct Drive Bracket V2 which includes a revision to the mounting frame to allow the stepper motor to be introduced to the assembly at an angle to feed the drive gear more easily into the BMG housing.

This a variation on my DIY Direct Drive Assembly to fit a BMG Extruder or similar clone.

I have printed and tested this thing on a CR10S and it seems to work fine. I have left the status has WIP because I may come back to this in the future. This is a bit of a quick project so I have not yet had chance to provide an in depth installation guide. The basic assembly is similar to the previous DIY Direct Drive and Hero Me Remix assemblies. I have also uploaded some images during assembly to indicate the general fixing bolt positions and sizes.

Due to what appears a quite large variation in tolerance in the various BMG Clone Extruders this thing may vary in ease of assembly. Currently, due to the collar around the Direct Drive Bracket it is not all that easy to insert the Motor gear at a 30 degree angle. Therefore if you really have to force the motor assembly into the extruder this thing may be a little difficult to assemble. I have 3 BMG clones and they are all different in tolerance. The one I used slides together very easily. I  may look at reducing the bracket collar to a single plate in the future.

This thing only contains the Direct Drive Bracket and the duct base. You will need to use a preferred set of ducts from one of my previously related things.... Links:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774121
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3881061/files

I printed these parts in Prima Select Light Blue PETG with 3 perimeters, 40 infill on an Ender 3 Pro & Ender 5.

Neither parts require support.

Please comment if you require further detail



Ender 3 & CR10 Direct Drive Assembly for BMG Extruder with Hero Me Remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3065295.

This is a set of extruder mounts for positioning the Extruder Assembles on the Zonestar P802QR2 X Axis Carriage. The advantages of this are:

1.Reduces the Boden Tube length by a third and therefore reduces stringing (see uploaded image of comparative stringing tests).

2.Makes it so much easier to change, add and remove filament.

3.Offers further options for positioning of spool holders.

4.Reduces clearance height of printer.

There are 3 types of mounts uploaded:

1.Direct Mounting - Hole fixings and aperture for fixing the Extruder Assembly directly to the modified X Axis mounts. This is the simplest mount but does position the assembly outlet tube below the outlet tube on the hot end. This will result in a slightly longer Boden Tube to allow for the bend radius.

2.Extended Plate - Straight - RH & LH extended plates are included to fasten to the mounts to elevate the Extruder Assembly outlet tube above the hot end outlet tube to provide a better bend radius for the Boden Tube.

3.Extended Plate - Angled - The same as item 2 but the extension plates are angled to improve bend radius to Extruder Assembly tube outlet. The angled mounts also allow for the spool holders to be sited to the rear of the printer.

Link to Cable Cover\Tube Clip:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3004261

Disclaimer:

Mounting the Extruder Assemblies to the X Axis carraige will add additional weight to the X axis. This therefore will apply greater strain to the Z axis stepper motors. So Far In the tests I have undertaken I have had no problems but with the Zonestar`s overall component quality being so poor its worth reiterating that this should be done at your own 
risk.

Print Settings:

0.2 Resolution, To provide a strong thing I printed with 3 perimeters & 30% infill. No support required other than the fixing bosses in the angled extension plates (this will print without support but a few custom supports will probably provide a neater fixing hole).


Update 25\09\18

Uploaded original Sketchup base file.


Zonestar P802QR2 X Axis Extruder Mounts

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3434039.

This is a remix of an earlier design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3408661

In this remix I have:

1. Value Engineered thing components to reduce the print time and plastic usage.

2. Redesigned assembly with all clip fits so the bolts, nuts & washer are no longer required.

Printing\Assembly Instructions:

1.The components are quite robust so multi perimeters are not absolutely essential. All nodes prototypes were printed in PLA with a 25% infill and 2 perimeters. The bridging collar was printed with 4 perimeters and 30% infill.

2.All parts can be printed without support but the Connection Collar may require a raft for stability depending on build surface (all my prototype parts were printed successfully without any rafts). I have integrated support for the top clip in the Bridging Collar to produce a better finish and reduce stringing. Both of these supports will need to be removed prior to assembly (see uploaded image).

2.Printed at 0.2 resolution on an Ender 5 & CR10S.

3.The Retention clip was printed in PLA but even greater flexing may be achieved with PETG.

In my prototype testing, this thing works has perceived, strong & resilient and is very much fit for purpose. However, if you think that your Dyson equipment may be handled very roughly I would recommend making the previous version which is slightly over-engineered and very solid. 

Update: 22\02\19

Re uploaded thing files with both Binary and ASCII versions

Update: 22\02\19

Uploaded  versions of thing files inspected in Meshmixer

Dyson V10/V8/V7 Accessory Mount/Holder V2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3665142.

Sample Filament Spool Holder for small and medium winding

Quite a lot of sample filament I have purchased have been quite a small diameter winding so I have found myself having to rewind due to my previously printed spool holders having a too large diameter.

This thing therefore as a small diameter basic spool with an extender and spacers to increase the width and diameter of the spool.

There is no ingenious modular concept at work here. I just needed a flexible spool holder after wrecking some new samples and thought I would use up some end of spools at the same time.

Printed @ 0.2 layer height (spacers 0.3), 5% infill, 2 perimeters and no supports.

Sample Filament Spool Holder for small and medium winding

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4566177.

29\09\20 There is a newer version of this thing here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4609997

Edit 17\08\20: Just to confirm this will fit the Ender 3 V2 as well yet please note the V2 firmware does not appear to provide any refresh options in the firmware therefore currently you will have to switch off the machine and on again to refresh the card reader with no physical card insertion change and to get around the SD_DETECT_PIN issue..

Inspired by scottyujan`s recent remix and a request by a fellow member jasonhallcross for a USB socket cover. I have combine both these ideas and remixed my thing with a clippable USB cover with a snap off end so it can either be used as cover or side USB access without leaving a visually awkward hole.

I have uploaded 3 covers, Front Entry Cover as per the original and two full cover caps one blank and the other with a USB symbol. I have also included the front cover with either the Ender Logo or plain.

This thing uses the same original back plate but you will need to reprint the front cover.

I have also included some integral support for the 2 forward clips to aid printing. These require removal with side cutters prior to assembly (see uploaded image).

You may find due to the end modification that the end clip is a little stiffer which is probably not a bad thing.

The front cover prints vertically. I have not had any printing issues with this but it may require a raft if any warping occurs.

Printed on a CR10S and My HEVO @ 0.2 layer height with 25%-30% infill for the body parts and 100% for the Lids. I printed the lids @ 20mms. The housing and back plate @ 30mms.

Also check out scottyujan`s You Tube video, its good to see some new younger content creators. Boothy

Update: 14\08\20 Uploaded new front housings and lids with further tweaks to clip fits.

Update: 13\08\20 Uploaded new front housings and Front Insertion Lid which includes a revised chamfer detail to improve bridging.

Creality Ender 3 PRO & Compact SD Card Adapter Housing V3

Multi-Disciplinary Professional Designer with 35 years contract experience primarily in Interior and Furniture Design. Since receiving a rebadged Duplicator Plus (Balco from Aldi) 3d printer from my wonderful wife for Christmas 2018 I am now using my design skills for personal 3D product creation

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