Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5200591.

This is a fan duct for the Mellow NF Sunrise Direct Driver extruder/hotend. It simply bolts on to the right-hand side of the aluminium block and allows adjustment up and down to cater for different nozzle heights (e.g. V6 or Volcano blocks).

Best printed in a heat tolerant material, e.g. HT-PLA, ABS, etc.

It will need supports touching build plate only.

Mellow NF Sunrise Fan Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5177421.

Wanted a comical pen stand, so Pink Octopus it is.

OctoPus Fountain Pen Holder / Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5149605.

Description
=========
I wanted to try a Direct Drive setup on the Flsun Q5 and came across the Mellow NF Sunrise v1.1 Dual Drive Extruder. It took some time to get the effector plate and the 5015 fan right so that overhangs were printing correctly.

This effector is ONLY designed for the Volcano option. For the Q5 you will also need the 24v option:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002562058108.html

This effector should work for any 40mm spaced Delta printer, including the Flsun QQS-Pro.

The Effector Plate
==============
This has been designed to take M3x5mm thread inserts (6 in total) to connect to the delta arms. As this is the part nearest the heat block and in contact with the heat sink, it needs to be printed in a heat tolerant filament. Testing has shown Heat Tolerant PLA, ABS and ASA are probably the minimum you will be able to print it with. It can be printed without supports.

The plate has been tested to 280C with only minor glazing of the surface. To go hotter will require a more heat tolerant filament.

Magnet Holder
===========
You can either re-use the magnetic mount for the Z-Probe, or use the included Magnet Holder which uses 2 flat top M3x8mm screws to screw the magnet onto the holder.

The included magnet holder uses a 20x10x3mm magnet. This needs to be a North pull magnet with countersunk screw holes. This is the one used here:
https://www.first4magnets.com/rectangular-c35/20-x-10-x-3mm-thick-x-3-5mm-c-s-n42-neodymium-magnets-4-2kg-pull-p3651#ab_1_1|ps_2_3391

As with the effector, the fan duct and the magnet holder need to be printed from a heat tolerant filament such as ABS, ASA, HT PLA, etc.

Construction
==========
Referencing the screw hole image and the stl of the whole unit:

1. Screw the magnet holder to the plate using 2 x button cap M3x8mm screws (A)

2. Position the plate onto the bottom of the NF Sunrise over the top of the Volcano hotend the flat top of the plate should go against the bottom of the hotend. The hotend wires should be routed through the top notch of the hole. 

3. Screw the plate onto the hotend using 2 x button cap M3x8mm screws (C)

4. Screw the fan shim against the hotend making sure the 3 holes correspond between the shim and the hotend using 3 x button cap M3x20mm screws (not shown)

5. Screw through the plate into the fan shim using 2 x button cap M3x8mm screws (D)

6. Screw the cable tidy to the side of the hotend and cable tie the wires from the heater, thermistor hotend fan and extruder motor to the cable tide

7. Mount the effector onto the printer arms with the fan notch pointing to the front

8. Screw the fan mount to the effector with 2 x button cap M3x8mm screws from the top (B)

9. Fit the 5015 fan into the fan mount and pass a button cap M3x20mm screw through from the left and fix with a nut to the right

10. Route the extruder motor cable up along the length of the main cable using cable ties and push sideways through a hexagon into the upper section of the printer. Remove the existing stepper cable (the one connected nearest the front of the printer) and replace with the cable from the new extruder cable

Printer Configuration
================
The following steps must be performed after switching on the printer:

1. Set E-steps to 725

2. PID tune

3. Delta Calibration

4. Z-Offset

5. Bed Levelling UBL

6. Load filament and print an XYZ cube to make sure it is properly configured

If you find that the extruder motor doesn't seem to be working or is making an odd noise, it's likely that it needs to be reversed. This can either be done in the firmware or by carefully switching the two outermost cable connectors. 

If you want to try and tackle ringing that you may see on some prints you can usually mitigate it by slowing down the print speed. Additionally, you may want to play with reducing the Jerk and/or Acceleration settings either on the printer or through your slicer.

Slicer Settings
===========
1. Set retraction to 1mm @ 25mm/s
2. Set extruder nozzle offset X to -7.0mm. In Cura:
Settings > Printers > Manage Printers > Select your printer > Machine Settings > Extruder > Nozzle Offset X

Materials Summary
===============
1 x Mellow NF Sunrise v1.1 Dual Drive Extruder, 24v, Volcano option:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002562058108.html

10 x Button top M3x8mm screws
3 x Button top M3x20mm screws
1 x Button top M4x20mm screw with nut
6 x M3 Brass inserts

Either:

1 x Stock magnet holder

Or:

2 x Flat top M3x8mm screws
1 x 20mmx10mmx3mm North Pull magnet with countersunk screw holes:

Notes
=====
The Mellow_NF_Sunrise_v3_5015.stl file is for reference only. You can't print it!

You will need to re-orientate the STL files before printing. The effector plate and magnet holder (if you use it) needs to be turned upside down. The fan shim and cable tidy should lay down flat. The fan mount can be printed as it is. The fan mount and the magnet holder should be printed with supports.



Mellow NF Sunrise Direct Drive for Flsun Q5

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5141248.

This is a remix to better allow thread inserts for those that switch out their dragon hotend frequently as threads in plastic tend to wear out quickly. I also beefed up the model surrounding the mount holes to better cater for the hot inserts.

This is to be used with the associated fan mount:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4949997

Or the original 40mm fan mount:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4734150

Dragon hotend adapter mount for CR-6 SE

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5101148.

Updates
======

2021-12-04 Released a dedicated 2 x 5015 version with better airflow:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5155154

2021-11-28 Added Adder v2. This new version has better placed fan mounting holes and increased airflow to the ducts. This does make the walls thinner, so if that is an issue when printing you can still use Adder v1

2021-11-28 Replaced the fan ducts with ones with better airflow

2021-11-28 Replaced the fan mounts with better side supports

2021-11-28 Added a slicer image to show recommended orientations for printing

2021-11-19 Added shorter versions of the v2 ducts for a higher than standard hotend

2021-11-19 Removed the v1 ducts as the v2 ones are much better

2021-11-15 Added v2 left and right ducts. These perform even better than the previous individual and multi duct.

Description
=========
When you just need more cooling.

I put this together to help with printing on the Creality CR-6 SE with a 0.8mm nozzle and a high flow hotend. This has helped cool large PLA parts printing at high speed.

It has been tested up to 185C while printing PolyCarbonate (PC) filament.

The cover is designed to take a single 5010 fan, two 5010 fans or a single 4020 fan. It also has a removable duct assembly if you want to add your own duct designs, lower the duct height (e.g. for a Volcano hotend) or to replace an existing duct if it breaks or warps.

The main cover can be printed in PLA or PETG (and ABS or ASA of course) as it's not coming that close to a high heat source. I printed it in PLA as PETG is a bit too flexible. The ducts need to be printed in a heat tolerant filament, e.g. PLA HT (High Temp), ABS, ASA, PC, PA-CF.

Unlike other covers, you can still use the stock hotend LED (if you find the blue light useful).

The design caters for hotends with either a 3010 or a 4010/4020 heatsink cooling fan.

It has been tested on a stock hotend as well as a Phaetus Dragon Hotend (E3D v6 heater block).

The tolerances for the duct mounts are quite tight, so some sanding/filing might be necessary for a good fit and to avoid damage when fitting.

All the parts should be printed with supports touching build plate only at an orientation show in the image listed. The main cover is best printed upright as it strengthens the parts more likely to break off. The image does not show the needed supports.

If you opt for the dual 5015 fans you will need to splice or make a cable that splits the output from a single to a double JST-XH connector for both fans to connect to the single socket on the daughter board.

Note: When fitting, you need to screw on the cover to the printer before fitting the fan(s) so that you can access the left mounting screw.

Fan Duct and Cover for the CR-6 SE

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5155154.

Updates
=======

2021-12-05 Uploaded a new cover with the right leg moved 2mm to the right for more even access to the hotend and to prevent the right duct from contact with a V6 heater block sock

Description
=========
When you just need even more cooling.

This is an evolution of my Adder cover and ducts which can be found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5101148

It is worth mentioning that the efficient airflow means that a lot of air gets pushed through the ducts with 2 5015 fans. For most prints you will probably only want to use 50% fan speed in your slicer. 100% is for large prints with a wide nozzle printing at speed. If you have the fan speed too high you risk poor layer adhesion and sometimes rapid cooling of the heater block which can force the printer to abort with a cooling warning.

I put this together to help with printing on the Creality CR-6 SE with a 0.8mm nozzle and a high flow hotend. This has helped cool large PLA parts printing at high speed.

It has been tested up to 185C while printing PolyCarbonate (PC) filament.

The cover is designed to take two 5010 fans. It also has a removable ducts if you want to add your own duct designs, lower the duct height (e.g. for a Volcano hotend) or to replace an existing duct if it breaks or warps.

The main cover can be printed in PLA or PETG as it's not coming that close to a high heat source. I printed it in PLA as PETG is a bit too flexible. The ducts need to be printed in a heat tolerant filament, e.g. PLA HT (High Temp), ABS, ASA, PC, etc.

Unlike other covers, you can still use the stock hotend LED (if you find the blue light useful).

The design caters for hotends with either a 3010 or a 4010/4020 heatsink cooling fan.

It has been tested on a stock hotend as well as a Phaetus Dragon Hotend (E3D v6 heater block).

The tolerances for the duct mounts are quite tight, so some sanding/filing might be necessary for a good fit and to avoid damage when fitting.

All the parts should be printed with supports touching build plate only, at the orientation show in the image listed. The main cover can be printed upright for a nicer surface finish. However, printing it upside down with supports makes for a much quicker print with the same strength, but with a poorer finish due to the supports.

With the dual 5015 fans you will need to splice or make a cable that splits the output from a single to a double JST-XH connector for both fans to connect to the single socket on the daughter board.

Note: When fitting, you need to screw on the cover to the printer before fitting the fan(s) so that you can access the left mounting screw.

Hotend Cover and Ducts for CR-6 SE

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4975364.

New and improved version with two blower fans now available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4979221

Description
=========

This is a completely new effector for the Flsun Q5 delta printer for mounting any v6 hotend that conforms to the E3D V6 standards using the grooved mount.

This includes the E3D V6 itself (tested), V6 clones (tested) and the newer Dragon (tested) and Dragonfly hotends (not tested) from Phaetus and sold through companies such as TriangleLab.

Additional mounts and components included for direct Phaetus Dragon hotend attachment (tested) (i.e. without the groove mount adapter), as well as a E3D Volcano hotend (tested).

This effector has been built from a blank sheet and has gone through several iterations to get to this point.

There are three major components:

The effector plate
-----------------------

This has been designed to take M3x5mm thread inserts (6 in total) to connect to the delta arms. As this is the part nearest the heat block and in contact with the heat sink, it needs to be printed in a heat tolerant filament. Testing has shown ABS and ASA are probably the minimum you will be able to print it with. It can be printed without supports.

The plate has been tested to 280C with only minor glazing of the surface. To go hotter will require a more heat tolerant filament such as PA-CF.

The two mounts
---------------------

The mounts attach to the effector plate using 2 M3x8mm and 2 M3x2mm screws. Both of these mounts support the heatsink by clamping to the V6 grooved mount using 2 M3x16mm screws. They need to be printed with a filament that is strong and that can repeatedly take threaded screws. This means PLA should be fine, normal PETG probably won't as it's too flexible. For best results, Carbon Fibre filled PLA or even better, CF filled PETG do best.

They do not have to be particularly heat tolerant as they only come into contact with the heatsink at the cold end of the grooved mount. They are also being cooled by the hotend fan.

Tolerances are important when printing these two components. Supports touching build plate are needed for one of the mounts.

As an alternative, Phaetus Dragon mounts have been included to provide a more stable platform for that hotend. Instead of the 3 screws needed, only one is needed to connect the two mounts. The groove mount must be removed from the Dragon hotend so that the 4 connecting screw holes are exposed.

Additional components
------------------------------

The  effector plate uses a modified fan connector used in:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4577330

While fan ducts from the originating connector will fit, they will reach below the height of the nozzle. I've included a couple of fan ducts that can be used with this system.

Separate Fan Ducts are available for the E3D standard hotend and the Volcano hotend configuration.

Hotend cooling fan duct modified from:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572660

Part cooling fan ducts from:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4577330
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2431261

You can either re-use the magnetic mount for the Z-Probe, or use the included Magnet Holder which will require 2 more M3 thread inserts and 2 more M3x8mm screws. The Volcano Magnet Holder will need an additional 2 M3 thread inserts. If you are reusing the magnetic probe you will need to add the Volcano spacer that is included to clear the nozzle. Using this will require 2 M3x16 screws.

The included magnet holder uses a 20x10x3mm magnet. This needs to be a North pull magnet with countersunk screw holes. This is the one used here:
https://www.first4magnets.com/rectangular-c35/20-x-10-x-3mm-thick-x-3-5mm-c-s-n42-neodymium-magnets-4-2kg-pull-p3651#ab_1_1|ps_2_3391

Separate Magnet Holders are available for the E3D standard hotend and the Volcano hotend configuration.

As with the effector, the fan duct and the magnet holder need to be printed from a heat tolerant filament such as ABS, ASA, etc.

Construction
==========

For a standard V6 hotend, print:
Flsun_Q5_Effector_Plate.stl
Flsun_Q5_Effector_V6_Blower_Fan_Mount.stl
Flsun_Q5_Effector_V6_Hotend_Fan_Mount.stl
Flsun_Q5_Effector_Fan_Connector.stl
Flsun_Q5_Effector_Magnet_Holder.stl
Flsun_Q5_Effector_Fan_Duct.stl

Substitute where necessary if you want to use a different hotend (i.e. Dragon direct parts, or Volcano parts).

Use appropriate filament as outlined at the top.

For the brass inserts you will need a soldering iron heated up to around 50C below the low point of the filament recommendation. Place the insert on the soldering iron tip and gently press into the appropriate hole (6 on the effector for the arms, 2 on the magnet holder). The inserts should be pushed into the 4mm holes until they are flush. Be very careful after pushing in the inserts, they will be very HOT for several MINUTES afterwards and can easily burn you. Do not twist the inserts as you push them in and be careful to not pull them out as you withdraw the soldering iron.

The order the components are put together matter, so to avoid having to unscrew them multiple times:

1. Screw the part cooling blower fan to the blower fan mount (hole down, fan out).

2. Screw the part cooling blower fan mount to the effector using 2 M3x8mm screws adjacent to the rectangular fan connector hole.

3. Screw the hotend fan to the hotend mount (fan label pointing into the mount).

4. Screw the magnet mount into the effector.

5. Insert the hotend through the effector from the bottom and push onto the blower fan mount.

6. Screw the hotend fan mount to the part cooling blower fan mount using 2 M3x16mm screws.

7. Screw a M3x8mm or shorter screw through the hole in the hotend fan mount onto the grooved hotend mount. Do NOT overtighten this as you will strip the created thread. NOTE: Using this screw is likely to mark the hotend.

8. Screw the hotend cooling fan mount to the effector using 2 M3x12mm screws.

Lastly, there is a zip tie hole on the part cooling blower fan mount to safely attach the cables to.

Printer Configuration
================

You then need to attach the new effector the the printer arms and connect the cables, bowden tube and clip. Once completed the following steps must be performed after switching on the printer:

1. PID tune

2. Delta Calibration

3. Z-Offset

4. Bed Levelling UBL

5. Load filament and print an XYZ cube to make sure it is properly configured

Materials Summary
===============

10 x M3 threaded brass inserts (6 x effector arms, 2 x magnet holder, 2 x Volcano magnet holder)
7 x Flat capped M3x8mm screws (2 x blower fan mount, 2 x magnet, 2 x magnet holder, 1 x hotend grub)
2 x Flat capped M3x12mm screws (2 x hotend fan mount)
2 x Flat capped M3x16mm screws (hotend mount)
2 x Button cap M3x12mm screws (hotend fan)
2 x Socket cap M2x8mm screws (part cooling fan)

1 x 4010 24v Axial Fan
1 x 4010 24v Centrifugal (Blower) Fan

1 x 20mmx10mmx3mm North Pull magnet with countersunk screw holes

Notes
=====

The fan ducts and connector will likely need some work to get a good fit with a little sanding or filing to get them to fit comfortably.

If you are building for a Volcano hotend and reusing the stock magnet holder, you will need to print the Flsun_Q5_Effector_v6_Volcano_stock_magnet_spacer.stl so that the Z-offset probe clears the nozzle incase it is hot.

Updates
======

2021-09-26 - Uploaded fixed mounts for:
 Flsun_Q5_Effector_Dragon_Blower_Fan_Mount.stl
 Flsun_Q5_Effector_Dragon_Hotend_Fan_Mount.stl

2021-10-11 - Added Volcano magnet spacer if reusing stock magnet holder

Flsun Q5 Universal v6 Effector

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4979221.

Updates
=======

2021-10-07 Added a Flsun Dragon bowden connector - see Notes section at the end
2021-10-11 Added Volcano magnet spacer if reusing stock magnet holder
2021-10-11 I've now tested the design with the plate printed with ABS printing Polycarbonate filament at 280C and it has held up perfectly with no deforming

---------

Flsun Q5 Universal v6 Effector - Double Blower
=========

This is my second completely new effector for the Flsun Q5 delta printer for mounting any v6 hotend that conforms to the E3D V6 standards using the grooved mount.

The difference this time, is that it's grown an additional blower fan for better part cooling. It's also simplified in the number of parts and construction.

This includes the E3D V6 itself (tested), V6 clones (tested) and the newer Dragon (tested) and Dragonfly hotends (not tested) from Phaetus and sold through companies such as TriangleLab.

Additional mounts and components included for direct Phaetus Dragon hotend attachment (tested) (i.e. without the groove mount adapter), as well as a E3D Volcano hotend (tested).

This effector has been built from a blank sheet and has gone through several iterations to get to this point.

There are two major components:

The Effector Plate
-----------------------

This has been designed to take M3x5mm thread inserts (6 in total) to connect to the delta arms. As this is the part nearest the heat block and in contact with the heat sink, it needs to be printed in a heat tolerant filament. Testing has shown ABS and ASA are probably the minimum you will be able to print it with. It can be printed without supports.

The plate has been tested to 280C with only minor glazing of the surface. To go hotter will require a more heat tolerant filament such as PA-CF.

The Cage
------------

The cage attaches to the effector plate using 4 M3x12mm. The cage supports the heatsink by clamping to the V6 grooved mount using 2 M3x16mm screws. It needs to be printed with a filament that is strong and that can repeatedly take threaded screws. This means PLA is fine, normal PETG probably won't as it's too flexible. For best results, Carbon Fibre filled PLA or even better, CF filled PETG do best.

It does not need to be particularly heat tolerant as it only come into contact with the heatsink at the cold end of the grooved mount. It is also being cooled by the hotend fan.

Tolerances are important when printing this components. Supports are not needed.

As an alternative, the Phaetus Dragon cage has been included to provide a more stable platform for that hotend. The groove mount must be removed from the Dragon hotend so that the 4 connecting screw holes are exposed.

Additional components
------------------------------

Separate Fan Ducts are available for the E3D standard hotend and the Volcano hotend configuration.

Hotend cooling fan duct modified from:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572660

Part cooling fan ducts modified from:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814127

Bowden connector created anew for the Dragon cage from:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1993384

You can either re-use the magnetic mount for the Z-Probe, or use the included Magnet Holder which will require 2 more M3 thread inserts and 2 more M3x8mm screws. The Volcano Magnet Holder will need an additional 2 M3 thread inserts. If you are reusing the magnetic probe you will need to add the Volcano spacer that is included to clear the nozzle. Using this will require 2 M3x16 screws.

The included magnet holder uses a 20x10x3mm magnet. This needs to be a North pull magnet with countersunk screw holes. This is the one used here:
https://www.first4magnets.com/rectangular-c35/20-x-10-x-3mm-thick-x-3-5mm-c-s-n42-neodymium-magnets-4-2kg-pull-p3651#ab_1_1|ps_2_3391

Separate Magnet Holders are available for the E3D standard hotend and the Volcano hotend configuration.

As with the effector, the fan ducts and the magnet holder need to be printed from a heat tolerant filament such as ABS, ASA, etc.

Construction
==========

For a standard V6 hotend, print:
1 x Flsun_Q5_v6_plate.stl
1 x Flsun_Q5_v6_cage.stl
1 x Flsun_Q5_v6_clamp.stl
1 x Flsun_Q5_v6_magnet_holder.stl
1 x Flsun_Q5_v6_fan_ducts.stl

Substitute where necessary if you want to use a different hotend (i.e. Dragon cage, or Volcano fan ducts and magnet holder).

Use appropriate filament as outlined at the top.

For the brass inserts you will need a soldering iron heated up to around 50C below the low point of the filament recommendation. Place the insert on the soldering iron tip and gently press into the appropriate hole (6 on the effector for the arms, 2 on the magnet holder). The inserts should be pushed into the 4mm holes until they are flush. Be very careful after pushing in the inserts, they will be very HOT for several MINUTES afterwards and can easily burn you. Do not twist the inserts as you push them in and be careful to not pull them out as you withdraw the soldering iron.

The order the components are put together matter, so to avoid having to unscrew them multiple times:

1. If using the included magnet holder, attach the magnet to the holder and then screw to the reverse side of the effector using 2 x M3x8mm screws. Otherwise, screw on the magnet holder from the original effector.

2. Screw the part cooling blower fans and the hotend fan to the cage using 4 x M2x8mm and 2 x M3x8mm screws. Use only two screws per fan and use the same holes for each fan (i.e. top-left and bottom-right), this prevents them from interfering with each other. Also take care with the fan cables and rotate and route as needed.

3. Screw the cage and fan ducts to the effector using 4 x M3x12mm button cap screws. This is done by putting the screws through the fan ducts and then through the plate and into the cage. If the fan ducts lift too much, there is a third hole on each one to screw directly into the plate using 2 x M3x8mm button cap screws.

4. Insert the hotend through the effector from the bottom and push onto the semi-circular groove mount. The heater block on the other side of the effector should point away from the magnet holder.

5. Fix the hotend to the cage using the clamp using 2 x M3x16mm screws. There is a T marked on the top of the clamp which should face up (i.e. Top) to ensure it grips the hotend groove mount correctly.

7. If the hotend is able to rotate, screw a M3x8mm or shorter screw through the hole in the hotend fan mount onto the grooved hotend mount. Do NOT overtighten this as you will strip the created thread. NOTE: Using this screw is likely to mark the hotend.

8. You will need to either solder the two blower fan cables together and crimp on a new JST SM 2.5mm female terminal, or make a 2 male to 1 female JST SM cable so that the single wires for the blower fan from the motherboard power both blower fans.

Lastly, there are zip tie holes on the cage to safely attach  and route the cables through.

Printer Configuration
================

You then need to attach the new effector the the printer arms and connect the cables, bowden tube and clip. Once completed the following steps must be performed after switching on the printer:

1. PID tune

2. Delta Calibration

3. Z-Offset

4. Bed Levelling UBL

5. Load filament and print an XYZ cube to make sure it is properly configured

Materials Summary
===============

10 x M3 threaded brass inserts (6 x effector arms, 2 x magnet holder, 2 x Volcano magnet holder)
5 x Flat capped M3x8mm screws (2 x magnet, 2 x magnet holder, 1 x hotend grub - optional)
4 x Button capped M3x12mm screws (cage)
2 x Button capped M3x8mm screws (cage - optional)
2 x Flat capped M3x16mm screws (hotend mount)
2 x Button capped M3x12mm screws (hotend fan)
4 x Socket capped M2x8mm screws (part cooling fans)

1 x 4010 24v Axial Fan
2 x 4010 24v Centrifugal (Blower) Fan
1 x 2 male to 1 female JST SM cable as shown

1 x 20mmx10mmx3mm North Pull magnet with countersunk screw holes

Notes
=====

The Copy_of_Flsun_Q5_Effector_V6*.stl files are for reference only, they cannot be printed directly.

If you use the Dragon cage I would strongly recommend using the Flsun Q5 Effector v6 Dragon bowden connector that I've added instead of a PC4-M10 connector. The one included prevents the bowden tube from moving about within the connector which can cause filament breaks and jams.

If you are building for a Volcano hotend and reusing the stock magnet holder, you will need to print the Flsun_Q5_Effector_v6_Volcano_stock_magnet_spacer.stl so that the Z-offset probe clears the nozzle incase it is hot.

Flsun Q5 Universal v6 Effector - Double Blower Fan

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4921536.

2021-08-03 - Improved the bottom part

Designed for the CR-6 SE, this helps guide the filament from a top mounted spool holder down to the runout sensor.

The bottom part fits over the filament runout sensor. The top part snaps onto the top left of the gantry structure.

PLA is fine as there's no stress on the parts.

Additional hardware:

2 x PC4-M6 pneumatic fittings, one for each part.

Be careful to have your x axis at bed level before cutting tubing to fit as it will have to extend that far as the gantry moves.

It's best not to use clips on either pneumatic fitting.

Because of the extra length of tubing needed, it does make it trickier to load the filament, but you can always pop out the tube by the runout sensor and push the filament through and then reattach.

CR-6 SE Filament guide for top mounted spool holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4940507.

This runout sensor holder for the CR-6 SE is designed to connect to the LGX Bondtech Direct Drive setup that connects the PTFE tube from the hotend to the runout sensor and then up to a top mounted spool. This uses two PC4-M6 pneumatic fittings.

It's a little odd as it fits front to back rather than left to right. This is to cater for the cables and reverse bowden tube coming from in front of the gantry to the left hand side (see photo).

Probably best printed in PLA for durability.

Additional components:

2 x PC4-M6 pneumatic fitting
2 x M3x8mm screws to attach the housing to the printer

No supports are needed.

CR-6 SE filament runout sensor adapter for Direct Drive LGX Extruder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4946487.

Remixed by putting it on it's side and removing 2 millimetres to give a flat base to print off. This can now be printed in the orientation in the STL file provided without any supports needed. 

Samsung Galaxy Watch  & Active 2  & 4 & Classic Charger Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4947002.

Updates:

2021-09-05 Modification to improve tolerances when fitting

-------------------------------

Easy to print (no supports needed) and very stable mounting platform for the Bondtech LGX Direct Drive configuration for the Creality CR-6 SE.

I found that the sample mount provided by Bondtech was not very stable and tended to rock back and forth when retracting. This mounting platform does not do this. It also leaves room for custom fan or hotend covers as it still exposes the bolts holding the stock hotend cover in place.

Best printed in PLA for durability (PETG tends to flex too much). You will need a short piece of bowden tube from the LGX extruder to the hotend. The rest of the setup and configuration is explained in the Bondtech post:
https://www.bondtech.se/2021/05/17/how-to-install-a-lgx-on-the-cr-6-se/

It has since been discovered that the vref for the extruder should be set no higher than 0.5 and not 0.8 as suggested on their site. Setting it above 0.5 will strip the plastic LGX gear when there is a filament jam due to a block.

You will need 2 M3x20mm (18mm should be fine too) bolts to attach the mount platform to the bottom of the extruder.

I have very successfully printed 83A TPE with this step with retractions disabled and the filament going directly into the extruder via a very short piece of PTFE tube.

CR-6 SE LGX Direct Drive Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4932174.

Updates:

2021-08-17 Added E3D_V6_Threaded_v2.stl which includes a hole to allow an M3 screw or grub bolt to hold the mount in position. Care should be taken when tightening to avoid damaging the heatsink thread, or to strip the grip from the mount material.

2021-08-15 Updated E3D_V6_Threaded.stl for better height adjustment, otherwise the official fan duct is too high

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is my take on mounting options for the official E3D V6 all metal hotend on the Creality CR-6 SE (and other models that use the same hotend).

There is a mount system for the Grooved mount used by any V6 hotend, plus a mount for the threaded E3D V6 heatsink.

The E3D V6 threaded mount is much preferred as it keeps the hotend assembly to the same height as the official one.

Threaded Mount:
-----------------------
For the threaded V6 mount you only need the E3D_V6_Threaded.stl. It is designed to match the height of the standard CR-6 SE hotend, so you can use the same fans and part cooling fan duct.

All that needs doing after building your hotend is to screw this on the top all the way down. 

It's tight, so you may need something to grip the heatsink as you screw it on.

Additional hardware:

2 * M3x8 screws

Grooved Mount:
----------------------
For the grooved mount, you will likely need all of the "Grooved" stl files.

Also provided is a replacement optical end-stop to cater for the longer hotend. You may not need this but it will ensure the hotend does not crash into the bed. This should be tested to ensure the optical sensor is triggered before the nozzle touches the bed. You can do this with the printer on and the stepper motors disengaged, then slowly lower the gantry to check the optical sensor is triggered.

I've also included a fan duct that I put together to cater for the lower nozzle tip. Better fan ducts exist that you could modify to fit, but the one included here is functional.

Additional hardware:

4 * M3x16 screws

Both Mounts:
-----------------
For both mount systems, you will need to do the following after fitting:

. Perform a PID tune. This is easily done through the Community Firmware
. Hot tighten the nozzle
. Re-home and recalibrate your z-offset
. Reduce retraction distance to 3mm or less if fitting an all metal hotend

Though the z-offset may not change much, it's still best to do it to avoid drilling the nozzle into the bed!

If the strain gauge (blue light) stays on after fitting, check that nothing is interfering with the hotend (e.q. stretched or caught wires). If it remains on, you will probably have to tune the strain gauge using the pot on the daughter board on the hotend assembly to cater for the different weight.

The grooved mount should work with other hotends with the same mount, such as the Phaetus Dragon and Dragonfly hotends, as well as others from Trianglelab, etc. However, I've not tested any of these.

All of the parts can be printed without supports with the orientation in the STL's, but the fan duct will turn out neater if you add supports touching base plate only.

The mounts can be printed using PLA as it should never get that hot at the top. The fan duct will need to be PETG/ABS or ASA to prevent warping. The optical end stop can be printed from PLA, etc.

If you use the full size V6 heater block you will need to rotate it 180 degrees for the official hotend cover to fit properly.

E3D V6 Universal Mounts for CR-6 SE

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4940492.

Updates:

2021-08-26 Added a repair part if the cover snaps so you don't have to print off a whole new cover. Requires an additional M3x8 nut and bolt, and probably a longer bolt to go through both parts and through the axis plate.

-----------------------------
Minor remix of the original v6 to help prevent the thin attachment from snapping.

I was working on the hotend a lot and the one screw attachment kept snapping meaning another long print for a new cover. I've remixed this to help prevent this from happening.

It's a bit less convenient to attach and remove (you have to unload the filament and pull the bowden tube from the hotend) but it is less prone to breaking now.

Many thanks to the original designer for such a great replacement/design.

CR-6 SE hotend cover with 4020 blower fan (and repair part)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4924422.

Updates:
------------

2021-08-18 Replaced barrel STL with corrected threads that were missing on the original I uploaded

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reworked all parts for a new design, improved tolerances and better leak proofing.

The section should work with the original design, however the barrel and cap may not fit well due to the changes made for this version.

This was designed using the Jowo #6 nib unit.

The printed parts do all assemble together, but make take a few goes to get the action smooth and may need a good grip to get traction. The tolerances are very tight requiring good dimensional accuracy from the printer.

The green pen is printed in silk PLA, the red in transparent PETG. Silk PLA works especially well, helping with rigidity and especially leak proofing.

No supports are needed, but a brim is essential to prevent the parts from falling over due to the very small footprint with the printer bed. Printing with 4 walls is recommended for rigidity and leak proofing of the section.

Open 3D Fountain Pen

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907658.

Yet Another Spool Holder. Just my take on a spool holder with bearings for a smooth ride. I didn't like any of the other hanging spool holders that I could find. I wanted to suspend the spool from a cabinet above my printers.

This one incorporates 3 x 608 bearings to allow the spool to turn freely. They are spaced to cater for the common spool widths, so there should be at least two bearings in use at a time.

It's been designed to limit bounce when filament is undergoing feed and extraction, which J shaped spool holders can suffer from.

Printed with tree supports (at 5%) for the bearing holes. 15% infill at most, and a layer height of 0.25.

Printed flat on a CR-6 SE.

Hanging Spool Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4949997.

Added a design for the Phaetus Dragon on the CR-6 SE for the original / E3D 30x10mm fan rather than the 40mm fan catered for in the adapter here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4734150

This should print orientated as the STL without the need for supports.

CR-6 SE Phaetus Dragon Hotend Fan Shroud (3010)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4945667.

Designed to keep your fingers busy. It can help distract you from feelings of stress and anxiety, or simply something to occupy your mind. There are many mechanical fidget cubes, which are excellent, but tend to be squeaky, rattly and prone to wear. This simple type of cube is easy to carry around and use without causing distractions for others.

I have a direct drive setup and am able to print using TPE which is excellent for this type of object. If you cannot print TPE, then TPU is a good substitute. The best infill is a simple one, such as Zig Zag at around 10% to give a good amount of squish.

If you don't have access to those filaments, then simple PLA is fine and will give a good tactile feel.

Orientation in the STL provides for a support free print. If you prefer a smaller or larger cube, just resize to your needs, but I'd suggest printing the one at the size provided first as it sits nicely in the hand.

Anti-Anxiety / Anti-Stress Silent Fidget Cube

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4924554.

This runout sensor holder for the CR-6 SE is designed to correctly line up to a bowden installed Bondtech LGX extruder.

The mount has an input housing for a PC4-M6 pneumatic fitting for top mounted filament spools. The output is designed so that a carefully cut length of PTFE tube can run between the sensor and the extruder as seen in the photo. This all leaves clearance to allow access to the LGX lever.

Probably best printed in PLA for durability.

Additional components:

1 x PC4-M6 pneumatic fitting
2 x M3x8mm screws to attach the housing to the printer

No supports are needed.

CR-6 SE filament runout sensor adapter for LGX Extruder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4896732.

This remix is for the CR-6 SE fitted with a BMG extruder as the arm needs to be repositioned.

This matches the height and angle of this mount for the filament sensor:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4765969

CR-6 SE Filament Roller Guide for BMG Extruder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4920704.

I had a spare all-metal hotend from my CR-6 SE, so fitted it to my Flsun Q5.

Alterations from the metal cage made to cater for the CR-6 SE hotend mount design. I recommend printing in PETG. The heatsink remains remarkably cool (tested heat block up to 260C) so there shouldn't be any warping. PETG gives the flexibility to move the cage and reinsert screws as needed to fit.

You will need to completely dismantle the existing Q5 hotend to assemble this. The only extra hardware I used were some screws:

2 x M3x16 ,m flat head screws to attach to the side of the cage
2 x M3x12 button screws to attach to the top of the cage
2 x M3x8 button screws to attach to the bottom of the cage through the effector plate

This should fit both the Prima 3D hotend as well as the Micro Swiss hotend.

Everything else fitted back into place as normal. I also fitted the heat block and sock that came with the hotend kit. I did not need to replace the part cooling duct.

Don't forget to PID tune, Delta level and Z Offset calibration for the new parts.

Tested successfully with PLA, PLA+, PETG and ABS.

Flsun Q5 Effector mod for CR-6 SE All Metal Hotend

Activity related to collaborating with others on models

Likes, comments, and activity from your community

A roundup of models that we think you'll like

For when we think someone might have posted your content as their own

New content from your premium memberships

Emails and messages from designers you follow

chirpy

Achievements

Seedling

Debutant

Mellow NF Sunrise Fan Mount

OctoPus Fountain Pen Holder / Stand

Mellow NF Sunrise Direct Drive for Flsun Q5

Dragon hotend adapter mount for CR-6 SE

Fan Duct and Cover for the CR-6 SE

Hotend Cover and Ducts for CR-6 SE

Fan Duct and Cover for the CR-6 SE

Flsun Q5 Universal v6 Effector

Flsun Q5 Universal v6 Effector - Double Blower Fan

CR-6 SE Filament guide for top mounted spool holder

CR-6 SE filament runout sensor adapter for Direct Drive LGX Extruder

Samsung Galaxy Watch & Active 2 & 4 & Classic Charger Stand

CR-6 SE LGX Direct Drive Mount

E3D V6 Universal Mounts for CR-6 SE

CR-6 SE hotend cover with 4020 blower fan (and repair part)

Open 3D Fountain Pen

Hanging Spool Holder

CR-6 SE Phaetus Dragon Hotend Fan Shroud (3010)

Anti-Anxiety / Anti-Stress Silent Fidget Cube

CR-6 SE filament runout sensor adapter for LGX Extruder

CR-6 SE Filament Roller Guide for BMG Extruder

Flsun Q5 Effector mod for CR-6 SE All Metal Hotend