Make your own super cool automated kinetic sand art table step-by-step. Including smart LED lighting.

You can see a video of it doing its thing and build instructions here: https://youtu.be/Lng_AsmfBfU

It is incredibly captivating to be beside this simple DIY wooden table as the steel ball magically carves out an endless and ever changing series of beautiful geometric patterns in the sand.

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

■ 12v Nema 17 stepper motors (x2): https://geni.us/StepperMotor
■ GT2 Timing belt (3m was used in the video): https://geni.us/TimingBelt5m
■ 5mm bore idler, 6mm or 10mm width, 20 teeth (x2): https://geni.us/6mmIdler5mmBoreToothed
■ 5mm bore idler, 6 or 10mm width, toothless (x4): https://geni.us/6mmIdlerWheel5mmBore
■ Elegoo Arduino Uno (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoUno
■ Nuts, bolts and screws (See list below): https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
■ M2.5 x 6mm bolts (for securing Raspberry Pi) (x4) - https://geni.us/PiBolt
■ Stepper drivers - TMC2208 (x2): https://geni.us/TMC2208
■ Contact switch (x3): https://geni.us/ContactSwitch
■ Arduino CNC Shield (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoCNCShield
■ Magnets, I used three x 15x3mm and one countersunk 20x7mm all high strength: https://geni.us/CountersunkMagnet https://geni.us/N52Magnets
■ 30mm 5V Fan (x1): https://geni.us/30mm5vFan
■ Micro SD Card 8Gb or higher for Raspberry Pi (x1) - https://geni.us/Micro-SD
■ Neopixels/WS2812b on a 30 per meter roll. - https://geni.us/5mWS2812B30m
■ 12mm momentary push button (x3): https://geni.us/MomentaryPush12mm
■ Some filament for the printed parts (I used PLA, including the wood infused LumberJake from 3D Jake) - https://www.3djake.com
■ Wiring blocks - five wires (x2) and three wires (x2). I used the Wago 221 series - https://geni.us/Wago221
■ Mini360 Buck Converter (x1): https://geni.us/Mini360
■ Faux leather fabric (enough to cover the surface): https://geni.us/FauxLeather
■ Steel ball - 20mm:
■ Sand (I used around 600g):

To make a table frame which measures roughly 80 x 60cm:
■ 40cm long linear rail with block - MGN12H (x2): https://geni.us/LinearRail400mm
■ 60cm long linear rail with block - MGN12H (x1): https://geni.us/LinearRail600mm
See www.diymachine.co.uk for instructions on how to build a larger or smaller version.
■ Arduino Nano (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
■ Electrical wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
■ 12v power supply - 2A or greater (x1): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply2A
■ Barrel Connector - Female (x1): https://geni.us/FemalePowerBarrel

■ Pocket hole jig: https://geni.us/PocketHoleJig

Nuts, bolts and screws needed:
■ M5 x 20mm (x6)
■ M3 x 8mm (x18)
■ M3 x 12mm (x19)
■ M3 nuts (x6)
■ M2.5 bolts for Pi (x4)
■ Short wood screws (x45)
■ Optional pocket hole screws (x24)

Quantity of 3D printed parts required:
BaseBoardMount.stl (x1)
BeltGrip.stl (x1)
ComputerCase.stl (x1)
ComputingLid.stl (x1)
ControlPanel.stl (x1)
GRBLCase.stl (x1)
GRBLCaseLid.stl (x1)
IdleSupport.stl (x2)
LED-Corner.stl (x4)
MagnetMount.stl (x1)
MotorBaseLeft.stl (x1)
MotorBaseRight.stl (x1)
PowerPanelCase.stl (x1)
PowerPanelLid.stl (x1)
WireLoop.stl (x4)
X-CarriageMount.stl (x2)
==========

DOWNLOADS:

Code, and wiring diagrams can be found and downloaded from here:
https://www.diymachines.co.uk/kinetic-sand-art-coffee-table-self-drawing

==========

SAY THANKS AND SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL:

Provide continual and dependable support through Patreon:
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/diymachines

Buy me a coffee to say thanks: https://ko-fi.com/diymachines

SUBSCRIBE:
■ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3jc4X-kEq-dEDYhQ8QoYnQ?sub_confirmation=1

INSTAGRAM: https://www.instagram.com/diy_machines/?hl=en
FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/diymachines/

Kinetic Sand Art Table

Full assembly exported as STL. Includes both wood, glass and 3D portioned parts.

Sand Art Table (135).stl

**Mini Planetary Egg Container**

This egg shaped container prints-in-place and uses a planetary gear stage on the bottom which allows it to open 4 times faster than its turned. 

This a scaled down version of the original [Planetary Egg Container]( https://social.thangs.com/m/53994), I have increased the clearances before scaling it down so they are the same as the original size. 

Its just over mm tall, scaled down .625% of the original. Even though it has the same clearances as the original it’s much harder print. The first layer has to be perfect, no stringing, with perfect layer seams.  

**How it works**
The bottom outside shell is the ring gear, the outer top shell is the carrier, and the inner shell is the sun gear.  Rotating the bottom shell  while holding the top shell results in the plant gears rotating inner shell at a 4:1 ratio.  36 teeth of the sun, divided by 12 teeth of the planet, plus one.

**Print instructions**
Prints in place with no supports. I printed it with a .4mm nozzle at .2mm layer heights but a smaller nozzle would make it easier to print as it would give more walls, smaller seam, and more cooling time.  There is a 3mm hex hole in the sun gear to free it up the gears if necessary. 

**Remove the brims** 
There are four built in brims attached to the sun gear that will need to be removed, I did so easily with side cutters

Printed on the [Muldex]( https://github.com/3dprintingworld/MULDEX) rep-rap IDEX printer with [Sunlu Rainbow PLA](https://amzn.to/3vGZDkf)

#MakerMadness
___
**Support and Licensing**
If you would like to help support more free models, or get permission to sell physical copies of my models, consider joining my [Patreon]( https://www.patreon.com/3dprintingworld)___
**Support and Licensing**
If you would like to help support more free models please consider joining my Thangs [Membership](https://than.gs/u/35786?plans=true) 
To get permission to sell physical copies of my models, consider joining my [Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/3dprintingworld)



Mini Planetary Egg Container

**Planetary Gear Print-in-Place Demo**
I expect to incorporate planetary gearing into future projects but I wasn’t real familiar with their design. It’s amazing how they work but they are actually quite confusing as you can achieve different output ratios from the same gear set.  I created this model as a demonstration unit to better understand how they work by having a physical example to hold. 

**Size**
The gears are module 1, both the sun and planet gears have 12 teeth and the ring gear has 36 teeth. 
Ratio: 3:1 or 1:4


**Demonstration**
If you hold the carrier and turn the sun gear, you get at 3:1 speed reduction.  This ratio is a result of  the 36 teeth on the ring gear divided by the 12 teeth on planet gears.  If you wanted further reduction, you would make the sun gear smaller then the plant gears. 

If you hold the carrier and turn the ring gear, you get a 1:4 speed increase on the sun gear. The is because the much larger diameter ring gear is moving faster than the smaller sun gear. The equation works out to be the 36 teeth of the ring gear divided by the 12 teeth of the planet gear plus 1. 

If you hold the sun gear and spin the ring gear and the carrier, there is no reduction and it acts like a bearing 


**Print instructions**
Designed for a .4mm nozzle, .2mm layer heights, no supports at 100%. 

Printed with Protoposta’s [High Five Blue]( https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/metallic-htpla-v3-highfive-blue?aff=113)(aff.)

Printed on the [Muldex]( https://github.com/3dprintingworld/MULDEX) rep-rap IDEX printer.
___
**Support and Licensing**
If you would like to help support more free models, or get permission to sell physical copies of my models, consider joining my [Patreon]( https://www.patreon.com/3dprintingworld)





Planetary Gear Print-in-Place Demo 

**Planetary Gear Print-in-Place Demo**
I expect to incorporate planetary gearing into future projects but I wasn’t real familiar with their design. It’s amazing how they work but they are actually quite confusing as you can achieve different output ratios from the same gear set.  I created this model as a demonstration unit to better understand how they work by having a physical example to hold. 

**Size**
The gears are module 1, both the sun and planet gears have 12 teeth and the ring gear has 36 teeth. 
Ratio: 3:1 or 1:4


**Demonstration**
If you hold the carrier and turn the sun gear, you get at 3:1 speed reduction.  This ratio is a result of  the 36 teeth on the ring gear divided by the 12 teeth on planet gears.  If you wanted further reduction, you would make the sun gear smaller then the plant gears. 

If you hold the carrier and turn the ring gear, you get a 1:4 speed increase on the sun gear. The is because the much larger diameter ring gear is moving faster than the smaller sun gear. The equation works out to be the 36 teeth of the ring gear divided by the 12 teeth of the planet gear plus 1. 

If you hold the sun gear and spin the ring gear and the carrier, there is no reduction and it acts like a bearing 


**Print instructions**
Designed for a .4mm nozzle, .2mm layer heights, no supports at 100%. 

Printed with Protoposta’s [High Five Blue]( https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/metallic-htpla-v3-highfive-blue?aff=113)

Printed on the [Muldex]( https://github.com/3dprintingworld/MULDEX) rep-rap IDEX printer.
___
**Support and Licensing**
If you would like to help support more free models, or get permission to sell physical copies of my models, consider joining my [Patreon]( https://www.patreon.com/3dprintingworld)





License: Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs
CC BY-NC-ND
***
***Sculpt by @ChelsC423***
Lord Nibbler (born 274 BCE), often known simply as Nibbler, is a Nibblonian who has existed since the beginning of time. He was discovered on the planet Vergon 6 by Bender, Fry, and Leela, just before that world's destruction.

Nibbler -Futurama

P U T I N is garbage, and so are his 
 mortal sympathizers. 

You have one very limited life on this planet and you use it to spread hate? Such Edge Lord Troll Bots.

War Crimes Criminal

This model was designed by knickers. I've reposted it as permitted by the Creative Commons Attribution license.

The attached files are for a V-Twin engine. Print each part individually, or an "all parts" model to get the whole thing at once. The engine.scad file can be used to generate new configurations!

Original description:
Kinetic visualizer pistons for a more discernibly active extruder, inspired by extruder visualizers from other designers. Reciprocating Engine built to attach to your direct dive extruder motor. Can also attach to any motor which has screw holes in the corners.

The engine block is held in place by circular tabs that press fit into the screw holes of standard NEMA 17 stepper motors. The fit should be tight so the assembly holds itself in place securely. If the mounting tabs don't fit in your motor, edit the tab size in Thingiverse Customizer.

The crankshaft requires a neodymium magnet to hold itself to the stepper motor shaft, 8 mm diameter by 3 mm tall.

Kinetic Extruder Visualizer Engine

Ready-to-print V-Twin extruder spinner with tight tolerances.

v-twin-all-parts-0.2mm-tolerance.stl

Make a strategy that defies gravity with this kinetic tile for Hextraction, the hackable, 3D-printable board game. Warning: It'll put your eye out.

When a ball enters the Launcher Tile, its effect activates - pull back the spring-loaded pusher and release it to fire the ball into the upper-left or upper-right edge. Positioning is important - since almost every tile is designed for balls to enter the TOP edges, very few will work if you start at the wrong end of the ice-cream cone. Prepare by stocking the pool with extra Asterisks, Pachinkos, Gears, "illegal" basics, and other compatible tiles. The Flipper Tile actually DOES work with the Launcher, provided the flipper is pointing in the other direction.

For the strongest launch, brace the tile against the board with one hand, while using the other to launch. The snappier the release, the stronger the launch. PLEASE don't let kids play with this tile - while it shouldn't be powerful enough to injure anyone, accidents do happen. You also don't want your vile offspring firing pencils out of this thing.

The Launcher Tile has a print-in-place mechanism - simply print the tile with supports enabled on the build plate only. Don't use PLA or composites - you need the lowest friction possible. After printing and cleaning up, use a Q-tip or toothpick to apply a plastic-safe grease to the slider track, and use tweezers to install a [McMaster 9044K11 extension spring](https://www.mcmaster.com/9044K11/) on the pegs below. Depending on your printer's support interface settings, you may need to thin the pegs down with a craft knife to fit the spring.

Also, don't forget to print the rules card - this uses a triggered effect to fire the ball!

Fusion 360 source: https://a360.co/3LWqEXA

All of my Hextraction tiles have a built-in sacrificial support under each notch - remember to snap it off after printing. Enable the brim if these detach from the bed. 

Hextraction is a 3D-printable, modder-friendly board game designed by me, Zack Freedman of Voidstar Lab. In addition to tiles, you'll also need [10mm steel balls](https://amzn.to/3MqpN30) or [3/8" slingshot ammo](https://amzn.to/41Hs5PG) and [a game board](https://than.gs/m/856439). To learn the rules and how to get started, [watch the Hextraction video](https://youtu.be/Iqz7ZDdP25A)!

Hextraction is absolutely free - it's free of charge - all of my models are here on Thangs, commercial use allowed. It's free-form - you can play with any number of opponents, even zero. It's free to modify - you can create your own tiles and configure your own board.

For more information, visit https://playhextraction.com.

Hextraction Launcher Tile (NOT FOR KIDS!)

Launcher Tile.stl

Shadow box art set from the iconic planet Tatooine from the Star Wars universe. It consists of 5 numbered plates. 

I've used the following colors:
- Plate 1: Geeetech PLA Black
- Plate 2: Sunlu PLA Plus Grey
- Plate 3: 3DJake ecoPLA Yellow
- Plate 4: Tinmorry PLA Matte Orange
- Logo: Geeetech PLA Black + 3D Jake ecoPLA Ultra-Satin Silver (multicolor)

The colors are just guidelines, you can get creative with the color scheme for a personal touch.

I've also added an additional Star Wars logo that you can attach to the shadow box.

You can find the box to display this set [here](https://than.gs/m/854759)

**Print settings**
_Plates_
- No supports
- 100% infill
- Arachne wall generator recommended

_Logo_
- Supports
- 100% infill
- Arachne wall generator recommended

_ALL The Crafty Maker designs are protected by Copyright Law. By downloading, YOU HAVE NO RIGHT to sell any digital files or reproductions from those files. If you want a commercial license to LEGALLY SELL 3D prints, you'll need a The Crafty Companion subscription._

Star Wars Tatooine Shadow Box (A)

Plate 1.stl


**Mini Planetary Gear Print-in-Place Demo**
This is a mini version of the original [Planetary Gear Print-in-Place Demonstration unit]( https://social.thangs.com/m/47634) I made previously. I really liked the original version so I thought I would make a lower profile version about the same weight as a benchy so it could be used as a test print or for filament color samples. This version is only 19g about a third of the original size. 

**Size**
The gears are module 1, both the sun and planet gears have 12 teeth and the ring gear has 36 teeth. 
Ratio: 3:1 or 1:4

**Demonstration**
If you hold the carrier and turn the sun gear, you get at 3:1 speed reduction.  This ratio is a result of  the 36 teeth on the ring gear divided by the 12 teeth on planet gears.  If you wanted further reduction, you would make the sun gear smaller than the plant gears. 

If you hold the carrier and turn the ring gear, you get a 1:4 speed increase on the sun gear. The is because the much larger diameter ring gear is moving faster than the smaller sun gear. The equation works out to be the 36 teeth of the ring gear divided by the 12 teeth of the planet gear plus 1. 

If you hold the sun gear and spin the ring gear and the carrier, there is no reduction and it acts like a bearing 


**Print instructions**
Designed for a .4mm nozzle, .2mm layer heights, no supports at 100%.  This version has tighter clearances than the original so it will work better at a smaller scale. It is a little more difficult to print so verify your; first layer height, extruder calibration, and the size of layer change blobs.  

Printed with Protoposta’s [Mermaid's Tale Metallic Teal HTPLA](https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/all/products/mermaids-tale-metallic-teal-htpla?aff=113)(aff.)

Printed on the [Muldex]( https://github.com/3dprintingworld/MULDEX) rep-rap IDEX printer.
___
**Support and Licensing**
If you would like to help support more free models, or get permission to sell physical copies of my models, consider joining my [Patreon]( https://www.patreon.com/3dprintingworld)


Mini Planetary Gear Print-in-Place Demo


**Mini Planetary Gear Print-in-Place Demo**
This is a mini version of the original [Planetary Gear Print-in-Place Demonstration unit]( https://social.thangs.com/m/47634) I made previously. I really liked the original version so I thought I would make a smaller version of the same concept that uses a similar amount of filament as a benchy so it could be used as a test print or for filament color samples. 

**Size**
The gears are module 1, both the sun and planet gears have 12 teeth and the ring gear has 36 teeth. 
Ratio: 3:1 or 1:4

**Demonstration**
If you hold the carrier and turn the sun gear, you get at 3:1 speed reduction.  This ratio is a result of  the 36 teeth on the ring gear divided by the 12 teeth on planet gears.  If you wanted further reduction, you would make the sun gear smaller than the plant gears. 

If you hold the carrier and turn the ring gear, you get a 1:4 speed increase on the sun gear. The is because the much larger diameter ring gear is moving faster than the smaller sun gear. The equation works out to be the 36 teeth of the ring gear divided by the 12 teeth of the planet gear plus 1. 

If you hold the sun gear and spin the ring gear and the carrier, there is no reduction and it acts like a bearing 


**Print instructions**
Designed for a .4mm nozzle, .2mm layer heights, no supports at 100%.  This version has tighter clearances than the original so it will work better at a smaller scale. It is a little more difficult to print so verify your; first layer height, extruder calibration, and the size of layer change blobs.  

Printed with Protoposta’s [Mermaid's Tale Metallic Teal HTPLA](https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/all/products/mermaids-tale-metallic-teal-htpla?aff=113)(aff.)

Printed on the [Muldex]( https://github.com/3dprintingworld/MULDEX) rep-rap IDEX printer.
___
**Support and Licensing**
If you would like to help support more free models, or get permission to sell physical copies of my models, consider joining my [Patreon]( https://www.patreon.com/3dprintingworld)


If you’re in continuing education or community spaces with heavy foot traffic, it’s likely you’re stowing your backpacks and laptops under desks or conference tables to avoid tripping hazards. Bag Hooks are nothing revolutionary and there’s quite a few on Thingiverse and STL sharing sites, but I have yet to see a heavy duty bag hook. Not to mention it’s a gnarly shape that catches quite a few eyes and gets the dialog going on additive manufacturing.

This bag hook accommodates table thicknesses of 0.75"-1.75". While there is a fair amount of flex under load, I have yet to exceed 60lbs (27kg) with CF reinforcement. If your bag weighs more than 60lbs, perhaps it belongs on the ground - or on wheels!

3D Printed Bag Hook

BagHook_V2.STEP

For the pure joy of complex topology. Could also be used as decorations, sound diffusion panels, or just to show off your new gradient filament! 

There is a “Hex Tile” set and a “Square Tile” set. Each set includes six unique patterns derived from mathematic triply periodic minimal surfaces. If you place identical tiles side-by-side, the pattern will be consistent across all tiles.

See here for videos: 

Hex Tiles: https://youtu.be/P0FsVcHb5zI 
Square Tiles: https://youtu.be/mxjWssml6T4 

Download both sets:

Hex Tiles: https://than.gs/m/955066 
Square Tiles: https://than.gs/m/955067 

Models shown are printed with SliceWorx PLA Matte Gradient.

AI generated description:

Feast your eyes on the "Topology Hex Tiles" 3D model by DaveMakesStuff. Perfect amalgamation of math and art, this model is aimed for the lovers of intricate topology. Explore myriad potentials of decorative use such as wall adornments or sound diffusion panels. Or simply flaunt the stunning results of your gradient filament with these complex designs!

Our package includes six unique hexagonal tiles, each one inspired from the mathematical concept of triply periodic minimal surfaces. Unveil the sheer wonder of symmetrical consistency with an arrangement of identical tiles. Captivate your audience with an immersive pattern that never breaks.

For a practical demonstration of this model's build, refer to the video included in the package. Drive your creativity even further by downloading both our Hex and Square tiles sets. Models showcased in the images are printed using SliceWork PLA Matte Gradient. Immerse into the joy of complex topology with our 3D print model on Thangs.com! Our detailed images will provide you with thorough visual references. 

Fall in love with the mesmerizing world of 3D model crafting. Let the Topology Hex Tiles inspire your next artistic feat. Explore more on Thangs.com!

Topology Tiles – Hex

FK S Hex Tile 2.stl

This full-sized, anatomically-correct 6-piece female pelvis model includes the sacrum, 5th lumbar vertebrae, left and right hemipelvis, and proximal portions of the left and right femur. An optional stand base is also provided.
See here for video: https://youtu.be/djYy23eG_EU
To assemble you will need 16 1/4” x 1/8” strong cylindrical neodymium magnets. To use the display base, you will also need an 8” section of ¼” square keystock.
Here are considerations for assembly:
•	Before inserting magnets, clean out the magnet anchors with a 1/4” drill bit to remove any imperfections, allowing the magnets to sit properly.
•	Ensure that you insert magnets with polarity oriented to allow proper connection of bones.
•	You may need to use glue to secure some of the magnets in place. CA glue works well.
Except for the sacrum, all bones are oriented in reasonable positions for printing.
The sacrum is a very difficult bone to print no matter how it is oriented, so you will need to position this according to your experience, preferences, and set-up. The bone pictured in the model was printed upside down, with ample support at the bottom.
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical correctness; however, the following small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for 3D printing:
•	Some areas of bone have been thickened to support the magnet anchors.
•	Thin parts of the medial sacral crest have been thickened or removed to improve printing strength and quality.
•	With the exception of a few centimeters at the top and bottom, the spinal canal and the complex tunnels of the cauda equina have been filled in to allow for better printing strength and quality. 
Development of this model was initiated and guided by Health Allies, a small regional Osteopathy clinic in Orange NSW, Australia with 4 practicing Osteopaths from various Universities across Australia. The model will be used for visual learning purposes, from patient education in the clinic, to assisting with continuing learning with other medical professionals.

Resources: https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3DPX-015843 


6-Piece Magnetic Female Pelvis Model

Do Not Print.stl

Perseverance.obj

Body

Body-2

Body-3

Body-4

Body-5

Body-6

hazcams_front

hazcams_front-2

hazcams_front-3

hazcams_front-4

hazcams_front-5

hazcams_front-6

hazcams_front_cover

hazcams_front_cover-2

hazcams_rear

hazcams_rear-2

hazcams_rear-3

hazcams_rear-4

hazcams_rear-5

hazcams_rear-6

hazcams_rear-7

hazcams_rear_cover_l

hazcams_rear_cover_l-2

hazcams_rear_cover_r

hazcams_rear_cover_r-2

hazcams_rear_wiring

microphones

Wheels_objs

Wheels_objs-2

Wheels_objs-3

suspension

suspension-2

suspension-3

suspension-4

suspension-5

suspension-6

suspension-7

arm.001

arm.001-2

arm.003

arm.003-2

arm.003-3

arm.003-4

arm.002

arm.002-2

arm.002-3

arm.002-4

arm.002-5

arm.002-6

arm.002-7

arm-2

arm-3

arm-4

arm-5

arm-6

arm-7

arm-8

arm.004

arm.004-2

turret_obj

turret_obj-2

turret_obj-3

turret_obj-4

turret_obj-5

turret_obj-6

turret_obj-7

turret_obj-8

turret_obj-9

turret_obj-10

corring_drill

corring_drill-2

cover_02

cover_02-2

cover_03

cover_03-2

hinge

PIXL_cover_01

PIXL_cover_01-2

PIXL

PIXL-2

PIXL-3

turret_obj.002

turret_obj.002-2

turret_obj.002-3

turret_obj.002-4

turret_obj.004

turret_obj.004-2

turret_obj.006

turret_parts

turret_parts-2

turret_parts-3

WATSON

WATSON-2

WATSON-3

WATSON-4

lab-2

lab-3

Joining the Star Wars Original Trilogy planet shadow boxes is this awesome Endor shadow box. Depicting the 2nd Death Star being built high in the sky.

I've used the following colors:

- Plate 1: Geeetech PLA Black
- Plate 2: PolyMaker PolyTerra PLA Army Dark Green
- Plate 3: Prusament PLA Galaxy Green
- Plate 4: Geeetech PLA Black
- Plate 5: FormFutura EasyFill ePLA Turquoise Blue
- Plate 6: 3DJake ecoPLA Pastel Green
- Logo: Geeetech PLA Black + Geeetech PLA White (multicolor)

The colors are just guidelines, you can get creative with the color scheme for a personal touch.

It consists of 6 numbered plates.

I've also added an updated Star Wars logo that you can attach to the shadow box. This version has a sturdier hook to attach to the box.

You can find the box to display this set [here](https://than.gs/m/854759)

**Print settings**
_Plates_
- No supports
- 100% infill
- Arachne wall generator recommended
For smooth top finish you could use ironing or print, on smooth buildplate, face down.

_Logo_
- Basic supports with top Z distance of 0.24
100% infill
- Arachne wall generator recommended

_ALL The Crafty Maker designs are protected by Copyright Law. By downloading, YOU HAVE NO RIGHT to sell any digital files or reproductions from those files. If you want a commercial license to LEGALLY SELL 3D prints, you'll need a The Crafty Companion subscription._

Star Wars Endor Shadow Box (A)

Plate 4.stl

Logo.stl

**This is a full remix of the Fancy Hextraction Game Boards by Zack Freedman.**


-
-
-

**It has come to my attention that the Goals.stl  gutters are slightly too wide (by 0.45mm each side) This may cause issues with balls going down the outsides. 
Fixed version is now uploaded GoalsFixed.stl Please redownload if you have the old version. 

If you have already printed, but not glued the goals, and don't what to re-print the full goal piece again. I have added GutterSideLeftFix.stl and GutterSideRightFix.stl. These are both adjusted so that they will line up with the old Goal.stl. Only print 1 of each and place them just before the goal. The end with the L or R should go closest to the Goal piece as that's the end I adjusted.  Ignore this if you haven't printed anything yet. Only print these if you printed the old Goals.stl and do not want to re print the fixed GoalsFixed.stl version.

Sorry about that!! Worked fine for me so didn't really question it. Hopefully its a small enough amount that most who have already printed and glued should work. Perhaps a bit of force inwards on the outer two sides as you glue may be enough? However I'd just print the fixed version to be sure.
Sorry again!**

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This remix changes lots things, features that I wanted for my game board, these include: 
1. Full gutters.
2. Easy to print with no supports. 
3. Use less filament.
4. Prints quicker.
Compared to a full board with gutters it is all of the above, however with all the extras it may end up using more filament. But I'm not totally sure on this as I haven't bothered to do the math.

I wanted a board that was quick and easy to set up, and would pack up for travelling securely.  That holds everything needed all together. (except for the tiles)

It also adds a few new things:

**Full Gutters**
All gutters travel down a "pipe" on the outsides of the game board, and end up in the middle section in-between the two goals (see photos, the area with the crosses). This allows some tiles that pick up the ball from the play area gutters to still be used, without picking up the out of play gutter balls.  
The exception to this is the top middle gutter, which funnels back into the middle channel gutter. 
(Some of the photos will show an older version that funneled balls back into the 2 outermost channels)

**Custom Height**
The standard height of the game board is 5 from on ramp to goal. With this version its easy to print any height you wish. The side gutters are modular and reversible (same file for left and right sides). For each extra row of height just print 5 extra gutters, 1 single row 5 plate and 2 side gutters. 
I printed a 6 high as shown in the photos, and the instructions below are for a 6 high board. 

**Ball Holders**
The ball holders are a convenient way of storing the balls. When removing from the back of the board, don't fully unscrew the bolts. Do it just enough to release it from the board and the balls will stay in the holder. 
They also double as a ball dispenser for each player. Fully unscrew one end, and unscrew the other end almost fully, so to act as a foot, and the balls will all roll down as you take a ball. (see photos)

**Dice Holder**
Will fit a max size of 2x15mm dice, for single player mode. The bolt on one end serves to hold the dice in place securely, and also allows for smaller dice to be placed in it.  

**Coins and Holder**
These can be used to keep track of how many wins you have had for those that are extra competitive! 
Or they can be used in a new "game mode" where you place 3-5 coins in each goal. Whenever a ball goes in a goal collect as many coins as there are balls that made it into the goals this turn. This encourages multi ball plays as you get coins for all balls, from both goals, that go in that turn. 
Once a ball/s have entered the goal, coins have been collected, the game board is reset as usual, but with less coins in the goals.  Keep playing till a player has greater than half the coins, they are the winner! 

**Printable Spanner**
While not strictly needed as finger tight for all bolts is fine. I included them as kids found it hard to do/undo the bolts without it. 
They are also used as a spacer in the back legs when detached and bolted to the back for travel/storage, without them the legs do not hold as securely, so I would recommend printing 2 just for this reason. 


**Print Settings**
All files are in the correct scaling and orientation recommended to print them.
All parts are design to be printed easily without supports. 
I used 0.2 layer height, 2 perimeters and 15% gyroid infill. 
With the exception of the Bolts, Spanner and BackMounts that I did with 3 perimeters, and 40% infill.
The main goal area (Goals.stl) is quite large and on my printer, an Ender 5, it needed to be rotated 45 degrees to fit. 
I have included the goals cut in half for smaller printers, then just glue the 2 halves together. However I have not printed them to see if it works. 

**How many to print**
This remix includes all the files needed except for the Plates. Grab them from the original. Or I used the plates for small printers here:  https://than.gs/m/860793
If like me you wanted to print the 6 (or more) tile height version (6 tiles from On ramp to Goals) then you will also need the plate single row found here: https://than.gs/m/857242

**For the 6 tile high version**
BackMount.stl x 16 (If not printing dice holder or coin holder use less as appropriate) 
BallHolder.stl x 4 - Suggestion only, each holds 9 balls and a total of 4 will be able to fit on a 6 Height board. If not using the dice or coin holders 2 more spots could be used for extra ball holders. 
BoltFeet.stl x 2  - I find these work better for the feet. You can use all of this type or all of the hex type, or a mix of both.
BoltHex.stl  x 16 - If printing everything, if not use less as appropriate. 
Coin.stl  x 10 - Optional
CoinHolder.stl  x 1 - Optional
GoalsFixed.stl  x 1
Gutter.stl  x 22
GutterHalf.stl  x 3
GutterLegMount_L.stl  x 1
GutterLegMount_R.stl  x 1
GutterSides.stl  x8
GutterTopMiddle.stl  x 1
Leg.stl  x 2
LegExtention.stl  x 2
OnRamp.stl  x 2
Spanner x 2  (While not technically needed they are used as a spacer so when the legs are screwed into the back the bolts are able to tighten correctly.)


**Assembly**
For assembly I found it easiest to glue together in the following order. 

1. Depending on what configuration of plate you used, glue them together first.
2. Then glue all gutters and half gutters to the base plates.
3. Next glue all the side gutters on.
4. Then glue the left and right leg supports, on ramps then the top middle gutter.
5. Lastly the Goals.

If you printed the mounts for the legs and ball holders (BackMounts.stl) glue these in next. 
For these make sure that the bevel is facing outwards from the ball holders. (see photos) 

1. Glue the 4 on closest to the goals
2. Using the ball holder, screw one end into one of the BackMounts that were just glued. 
Screw an un-glued BackMount into the other end of the ball mount. 
3. Mark out with pencil or just scratch a small mark where to line up the BackMount to. Take the ball holder off and glue the BackMount to the board lining it up with the mark you just made. 
4. Glue them on carefully one by one, double checking first to make sure measurements are correct.
5. The next row of 4 should be 1cm above the last row, making sure the tabs are facing correctly. (see photo)
Again checking carefully mark out where the last row should go by spacing it out as done for the second row. 

That's it! ~ you are ready to play Hextraction!

Thanks for checking out my remix! If there are any issues let me know. This is my first time ever uploading a 3D printing file! I hope you enjoy!

Super Fancy Remix of the Hextraction Game Board

5-15 Plate.stl

ALLDONTPRINT.stl

Coin.stl

BallHolder.stl

BackMounts.stl

GutterHalf.stl

Gutter.stl

GutterSides.stl

GutterTopMiddle.stl

GutterLegMount_L.stl

GutterLegMount_R.stl

DiceHolder.stl

CoinHolder.stl

BoltHex.stl

BoltFeet.stl

LegExtention.stl

Spanner.stl

OnRamp.stl

LegFixed.stl

GoalsFixed.stl

GutterSidesLeftFix.stl

GutterSidesRightFix.stl

BoltFeetLong.stl

Goal_Left_SmallPrinters.stl

Goal_Right_SmallPrinters.stl

Shadow box art set from the iconic planet Hoth from the Star Wars universe. It consists of 4 numbered plates. 

I've used the following colors:
- Plate 1: Sunlu PLA Plus Grey
- Plate 2: Sunlu PLA Plus White
- Plate 3: 3DJake ecoPLA Pastel Blue
- Plate 4: Tinmorry PLA Sky Blue
- Logo: Geeetech PLA Black + 3D Jake ecoPLA Ultra-Satin Silver (multicolor)

The colors are just guidelines, you can get creative with the color scheme for a personal touch.

I've also added an additional Star Wars logo that you can attach to the shadow box.

You can find the box to display this set [here](https://than.gs/m/854759)

**Print settings**
_Plates_
- No supports
- 100% infill
- Arachne wall generator recommended

_Logo_
- Supports
- 100% infill
- Arachne wall generator recommended

_ALL The Crafty Maker designs are protected by Copyright Law. By downloading, YOU HAVE NO RIGHT to sell any digital files or reproductions from those files. If you want a commercial license to LEGALLY SELL 3D prints, you'll need a The Crafty Companion subscription._

Star Wars Hoth Shadow Box (A)

These ten minimal surface ornaments and spheres can be used for decoration or just as a way of appreciating the beauty of mathematical minimal surfaces.

See here from video of printed ornaments and cross-sectional views in Cura slicing: https://youtu.be/xwHfo-ngRqM 

A minimal surface can be thought of as a surface that is stretched as tightly as possible within the edges that hold it in place. The shape of a soap bubble that forms within a wire frame is an example of a minimal surface. These ornaments and spheres are derived from a special kind of minimal surface known as a “triply periodic minimal surface (TPMS),” a minimal surface that can be tiled infinitely in all three directions.

Files for each selected TPMS are provided as a “Sphere,” “Ornament,” and in some cases, as “Ornament Support.” Files are named for the type of TPMS and the mathematician credited with their discovery.

“Sphere” files are 60mm diameter spheres of each TPMS.

“Ornament” files are also 60mm diameter spheres but include pilot holes for at top for small ½ inch eye hooks. In some cases, additional geometry has been added to strengthen the area around the hook. The exception to this is the “Schoen F-RD(r)” and “Schwarz CLP” in which the geometry of the TPMS sphere already provides a means of hanging the ornament and the addition of a hook is not necessary.

“Ornament Support” files have built in supports for the upper portions of some of the more complex shapes. This allows you to reduce the amount of support you need to set up, but you will still need to set up supports for the base of the ornament.
You will need to set up additional support for each file, and expect to do some post-print cleanup.

See here for more information about these and other TPMS: http://facstaff.susqu.edu/brakke/evolver/examples/periodic/periodic.html

This model is submitted to the November 2021 "DIY: Don't Buy 3D Modeling Challenge" in the "Holiday DIY" category.

#custom, #thangs3d #pdo #minimalsurface #topology #math #mathart #christmas #christmasdecoration #ornament 


Ten Minimal Surface Ornaments and Spheres

This file is for display purposes only! Do not print! 

Ten Minimal Surface Spheres.stl

Introducing the mesmerizing Hybrid Moon Lamp, inspired by the beauty of our celestial neighbor. This unique lamp incorporates actual NASA data, bringing the wonders of space right into your home. With its versatile design, you have the option to either screw the legs out and hang it from the ceiling or use the convenient leg holder to keep them safe when not in use.

To bring the Hybrid Moon Lamp to life, you'll need a lamp socket and a bulb. For an enchanting display, I recommend using a Multi-color LED bulb. Depending on your location, you can find suitable options through the following links:

EU Plug:
https://ebay.us/PRcPvm

US Plug:
https://ebay.us/hBRN1i

You support me by suing these Links! :D

Enhance the ambiance with the perfect bulb:

EU:
https://ebay.us/yB4Acp

US:
https://ebay.us/oTWuS1

You support me by suing these Links! :D

Print Settings:
To create this, you only need to print the numbered files. The additional files are included in case you require separate prints. When printing the Moon model, use a 0.4 mm nozzle or set a line height of 0.2 mm and a width of 0.4 mm. The domes can be challenging to print, but I recommend slowing down the layers at the top to 50% print speed (around layer 670). Achieve optimal strength by using 100% infill with concentric infill, or you can set your wall count to a higher value, such as 40. Basic white PLA works perfectly; I used Sunlu White PLA+ for my model. Avoid matte or glitter filaments as they may not produce the desired effect. No supports are required for printing.

For the legs and plate, no supports are needed. For a visually appealing result, try positioning the seam on the inside of the legs. Feel free to choose any color that suits your taste.

Enjoy the captivating beauty of your completed Hybrid Moon Lamp! If you find joy in this creation, please consider supporting my work by buying me a coffee at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/Ri0m0. As a struggling student, every contribution helps me continue my filament-fueled endeavors.

Check out my profile for more incredible lamp designs, or stay tuned for upcoming releases. Here are some other mesmerizing hybrid lamps you might like:

Mercury: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6062935
Pluto: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6058417
Sun: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036612
Mars : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036600
Jupiter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036586
Football: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036569
Asteroid Vesta: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036559
Basketball: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036547
Venus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6034731
Moon: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6034515

Each lamp combines the beauty of space with stunning design. Explore the universe of possibilities!

Please note that this design is provided under a non-commercial license.


Hybrid Hanging/Desk Moon Lamp

Darth Vader loves watching sunrises (and sunsets). Hates long walks on the beach, however.

In the early morning hours, before the galaxy awoke, Vader would venture to a secluded spot on a remote planet, far from the prying eyes of the Empire. As the first rays of sunlight pierced the horizon, he would watch as darkness gave way to a kaleidoscope of hues. The vibrant oranges, pinks, and purples painted the sky, and for a brief moment, Vader could almost forget the weight of his responsibilities.

Similarly, in the evening, after a grueling day of commanding his forces, Vader would retreat to the privacy of his meditation chamber. With its dimly lit ambiance, he would take a moment to reflect as the sun dipped below the horizon. The colors shifted and deepened, casting a soft glow that mirrored the turmoil and conflict within him. It was during these sunsets that Vader allowed himself a glimpse of the person he once was, before he became consumed by the darkness.

In these quiet moments, Darth Vader found solace and a connection to a world beyond his own. The sunrises and sunsets reminded him of the beauty that still existed in the universe, even amidst the chaos and destruction. They were a reminder of the light he had lost and the possibility of redemption, however distant it may seem. And as he stood there, entranced by the shifting sky, a flicker of hope ignited within the dark heart of Darth Vader.

Image prompted in MidJourney, prepped in HueForge.

I sliced this at a .08mm layer height.

Black to layer 7
Red to layer 14
Orange to layer 22
Yellow to layer 39


Star Wars (Inspired) "Sith Sunset to Sunrise" HueForge Darth Vader

This 16-piece, full-sized anatomical model shows the position of the brachial plexus nerves relative to surrounding bones, muscles, and arteries. See here for video: https://youtu.be/Uol33HA0QOc 

The brachial plexus is a network of nerves in the shoulder that carries movement and sensory signals from the spinal cord to the arms and hands. This model is designed for use as a clinical education tool, specifically for ultrasound guided nerve blocks and anesthesia for surgery.

The model can be used upright or in supine. You can print either shoulder or both. Use different coloured filament to emphasis structures.

The “Brachial Plexus” includes all roots, trunks, divisions, cords and branches, as well as proximal portions of the suprascapular and long thoracic nerve. The phrenic nerve is included as well, not because it is a part of the brachial plexus, but because it is a structure to identify and avoid when doing nerve blocks or surgery in this area.

The main structural pieces are attached with magnets. To assemble both sides with magnets, you will need 36   1/4” x 1/8” (6mm x 3mm) cylindrical neodymium magnets. www.kjmagnetics.com is a good source of magnets. Pieces can be glued together for permanent attachment.

The roots of the brachial plexus and phrenic nerve are attached via insertion holes in the intervertebral foramen. The brachial plexus and subclavian/axillary artery are also held in place by the clavicle.

The following pieces form the structural base:

•	Spine Base 
•	Right and/or Left Scapula Rhomboid Base 
•	Sternum Rib Base 
•	Right and/or Left Clavicle

The follow pieces are non-structural. Print the pieces and sides that you need.:

•	Head of Humerus
•	Anterior Scalene
•	Brachial Plexus
•	Phrenic Nerve
•	Subclavian/Axillary Artery

This is an advanced print requiring knowledge in setting up supports and post-print cleanup.

The “Spine Base” and “Scapula Rhomboid Bases” should be printed as provided. The remaining files are in a “suggested orientation,” you may need to reorient and prepare them according to your preferences, equipment, and skill level. In general, try to orient outer surfaces upwards so that the surfaces in contact with support structures are less visible in the final model. 

For pieces with contoured bottom surfaces and hard-to-reach support areas, try raising the model a few millimeters off the build plate and using “tree supports.”

Here are considerations for assembly:
•	Before inserting magnets, clean out the magnet anchors with a 1/4” drill bit to remove any imperfections, allowing the magnets to sit properly.
•	Ensure that you insert magnets with polarity oriented to allow proper connections.
•	You may need to use glue to secure some of the magnets in place, especially if using the smaller metric sizes. CA glue works well.
•	Expect to do some post-print cleanup with sandpaper and files.

Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical correctness; however, the following small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for 3D printing:
•	Magnet anchors have been added to allow insertion of magnets.
•	Some areas of bone have been thickened to support the magnet anchors and add strength
•	A portion of the posterior spine of the scapula has been enlarged to support the model in supine.
•	All neural structures have been thickened for strength and to facilitate printing.
•	The brachial plexus has been reshaped in some areas to allow for ease of printing and assembly. These alterations are within the range of normal anatomical variation. 
•	Anterior scalene is positioned slightly anterior to create more space in the interscalene triangle.
•	Groves have been added on the first ribs to facilitate proper positioning of the subclavian artery.

This project was done in collaboration with Eric Kramer and colleagues.

Eric Kramer is a nurse anesthesiologist and nurse practitioner with an interest in point of care ultrasound and ultrasound guided regional anesthesia. He is faculty for Nat

16-Piece Full Size Brachial Plexus Model

Full Model - Display Only.stl

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