__3D printed filament dry box__


An enclosure for one spool of filament featuring desiccant cages and hygrometer for reducing and monitoring moisture on hygroscopic filament. Rewind system with locking mechanism for when the spool is not in use. Check out [the videos](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsfHs_I52mk&list=LLMvNnP9oAQl5IApL8XBQIkQ)!

Make sure to check the advantages and disadvantages first, and follow instructions on [the project page](https://mihaidesigns.com/drybox/).

__Printing:__
>* Print one base (filename starting with "print one base.")
>* Print one lid (filename starting with "print one lid.")
>* Print all 40 shared files (some are identical)


DXF files included for laser cutting windows.


See the [BOM list](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ia3ImaCrxpdLvES7OI8j2lGvnmtfEvpncn1Ds7_c1f0/edit#gid=0) for required parts.

Licensed under CC https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/


If you like my projects, you can support my work on [Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/mihaidesigns)! 😎

No supports needed, supportless, FDM.

Mihai's DryBox

pick one base. front and side angled windows (default).stl

front_panel.dxf

side_panel.dxf

__This is the new version V3, of Marsgizmo Filament Bunker__

This is a solution to keep your 3D Printing Filaments dry.
It is designed for 3D Printing.

Please ignore the wrong part names (currently not possible to rename them). 
After download, you'll get the correct parts and names.


This new version is compatible with both containers (Narrow and Wide).

__Check the added pictures for more details__


See the quick assembly in [my video](https://youtu.be/Es-HM-d71WA)
Here's also the [previous video] (https://youtu.be/w2T6HxC_8cE)

____________________________

__What do you need to make it?__

For each individual Filament Bunker, you need (more details below):
> 1 x cereal container
> 4 x bearings
> 1 x about 50cm (20”) of PTFE tube
> 1 x PTFE connector (for 4mm OD PTFE tube)
> 50 grams (1/2 cup) of Silica beads
>  1 x Hygrometer
> 3D Printed Parts (1 x Main Body, 1 x Silica Lid, 1 x Cylinder 1 and 1 x Cylinder 2). No supports needed for printing.


____________________________

__Where to buy the additional parts?__
The following are my affiliate links.

There are 2 cereal containers (Narrow and Wide), check the above video to distinguish the differences:
> Narrow Container: with big handgrips can hold Spools of 60mm width and 200mm in diameter (usually 750g Spools) 
Get them from here (not available in all countries): [link] (https://geni.us/pSLAo)


> Wide Container: can hold Spools of 68mm width and 200mm in diamerter (usually 1Kg Spools, e.g. Prusament, etc.).
Get them from here (not available in all countries): [link] ( https://geni.us/nrcXpYG)


The volume of both containers is 4 liters (16.9 Cups, 135.3oz).
DO NOT GET the smaller versions!


Using regular 608 ZZ (or 2RS) skateboard bearings: 
> pack of 10: [link] (https://geni.us/uLMvbQ)
> or pack of 100: [link] (https://geni.us/OiChoH)



PTFE tube and connectors. I recommend 3mm ID / 4mm OD, but you can also use regular 2mm ID / 4mm OD
(ID - Inner Diameter, OD - Outer Diameter)
> 3mm ID / 4mm OD: [link] (https://geni.us/NIfXBG4)
> 2mm ID / 4mm OD: [link] (https://geni.us/4YjDen)
> PTFE M10 Connector: [link](https://geni.us/JQRSNXl)

Silica Beads: 
> the best are Molecular Sieve beads [link] (https://amzn.to/3jljvU9)
More details about [which method is the best](https://www.sorbentsystems.com/desiccants_charts.html)
> silica beads with no markers: [link] (https://geni.us/ktHdsU)
I recommend using silica with no color markers, the ones which are blue or orange are [slightly toxic](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel)

Hygrometer (the square version, not round): [link] (https://geni.us/gAhF3)
Dimensions: 46mm x 27mm / 1.81 x 1.06 inch.



____________________________
__Printing details:__

> - no supports needed!
> - can easily be printed from PLA (try to use quality PLA), otherwise go with PETG.
> - 0.2mm layer height for better quality, but also 0.3mm layer height works fine (lower quality)
> - 3 perimeters (for strength)
> - 100% infill (there’s a very tiny difference in overall quantity)
> - you need in Total around 67 grams on PLA, for one complete set.
> - you can print is on small beds like Prusa Mini 18x18cm (you only need to rotate the Main Body 45 degrees)
____________________________

__Check my other videos:__

[my Youtube channel] (http://youtube.com/marsgizmo)
[my Instagram channel](https://www.instagram.com/marsgizmo)



____________________________
License Type = CC BY-NC-SA 
(CC Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike)
[marsgizmo](https://www.marsgizmo.com)

marsgizmo Filament Bunker V3

__ This is the Main Body for the marsgizmo Filament Bunker__
It is designed for 3D Printing.

> 👉 [check it here in my video]()

[my Youtube channel] (https://www.marsgizmo.com)
[my Instagram channel](https://www.instagram.com/marsgizmo)

____________________________
__3D Print Settings:__


____________________________
License Type = CC BY-NC-SA 
(CC Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike)
[marsgizmo](https://www.marsgizmo.com)


Main Body v5.stl

Marsgizmo Filament Bunker v3 - Cylinder 2.stl

This Lightsaber has a removable collapsing blade that can be printed separately in a different color. The hilt is designed with a screw on cap which allows the blade to be inserted after its printed. The hilt is 209mm long with the cap installed but it expands to over 950mm in total length with the collapsing blade installed! 

Its designed to be printed with a ,4mm nozzle, with a line thickness of .43, so the blade will be two shells thick. The test print can be found [here.](https://thangs.com/3dprintingworld/SwordSaber-Test-Print-23601)

**Links to the filament I used(aff):**
[Galaxy Black](https://amzn.to/3Cu2xKt)
[Lipstick Red](https://amzn.to/3jH1Fti)

**Video**
[Intro](https://youtu.be/xN0H9npkkP4)
[Troubleshooting](https://youtu.be/YQV4PYJPhx0)


**Collapsing Lightsabers**
[ROTJ Single Extrusion]( https://thangs.com/3dprintingworld/Collapsing-LightsaberPNP-23596)
[ROTJ Dual Extrusion]( https://thangs.com/3dprintingworld/Collapsing-Lightsaber-Dual-Extrusion--34803)
[Vader’s Dual Extrusion]( https://thangs.com/3dprintingworld/Collapsing-Sith-Lightsaber-dual-extrusion-28319)
[Leia’s Dual and Single](https://thangs.com/3dprintingworld/Leias-Dual-Extrusion-Collapsing-Lightsaber--25509)
___
**Support and Licensing**
If you would like to help support more free models please consider joining my Thangs [Membership](https://than.gs/u/35786?plans=true) 
To get permission to sell physical copies of my models, consider joining my [Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/3dprintingworld)


Collapsing Sith Lightsaber

COLLAPSING-LIGHTSABER-SITH.stl

It's the Torture Toaster!  The guys at Edge of Tech challenged me to make a torture test that would be fun and interesting, and this ridiculous thing is where I ended up :)  This will test your print tolerances, overhang handling, and most of all, your bed adhesion!  No supports required, though!  It's not as torturous as it sounds, though, and with a little perseverence you'll get it printed! :D

Find more of my stuff (and support me!❤) at https://www.patreon.com/clockspring3D

Find Edge of Tech at:  https://youtube.com/theedgeoftech


Clockspring3D Torture Toaster

I designed my own 20mm x 20The Images are from a print on my Ender 3.
mm x 20mm Calibration Cube in Tinkercad so I had my own test print for reference.
I call it the CHEP Cube.
It’s become a popular print for many people and it’s fun to see where it turns up.

CHEP Cube

CHEPCube.stl

HT-FRT adapted for milspec lowers.  Every part has been updated.

For a basic milspec lower with the sear block hump above the standard safety, print these files:
    1_block - wide - remix.stl
    2_plate - remix.stl
    3_safety - mirrored_2x_wide - remix.stl
    4_pin.stl
    
If your lower does not have the sear block hump and you want a bit more engagement, print these instead of their reciprocal above:
    1.1_block_wide - remix.stl
    3.1_safety - wide - remix.stl
    4.1_pin.stl
 
Use a spare Bolt Catch Spring.

This requires a milspec lower, a "milspec" semi-auto FCG, and a 'standard' full-auto BCG.  The 'plate' file will replace the disconnector and disco spring.

I printed these with eSun PLA Pro, but any quality PLA+/Pro should be fine.  Use a high number of perimeters, and high percentage of infil (grid, lines, rectilinear, or similar).  I used 6 perims and 60% line infil.

If your BCG is stiff to pull back, it is dragging on the hammer because the plate is slightly too tall, and doesn't allow the hammer to retract far enough.  Referencing [plate_adjust.png](https://i.imgur.com/OLunfE5.png), file or sand a *little* bit off in the red area, test fit, and repeat until the BCG doesn't drag.


CC BY-SA

HT-FRT milspec remix

1_Block - wide - remix.STL

1.1_Block_-_wide_-_remix.STL

3.1_Safety_-_wide_-_remix.STL

1.1_Block_wide_remix.step

3.1_Safety_wide_remix.STEP

3_Safety_-_mirrored_2x_wide_-_remix.STL

3_Safety_mirrored_2x_wide_remix.STEP

This gearbox is stackable and u can build this up to the moon. 

Video: https://youtu.be/McfVmBNaNuA

PLANETARY GEARBOX - Unlimited Gear Ratio

This gearbox is stackable and u can build this up to the moon. 

Video:

Body1

Body14

Body16

A Simple CNC Machine - DIY Laser Engraver
Check the building tutorial here: https://howtomechatronics.com/projects/simplest-cnc-machine-with-minimum-parts-possible-diy-laser-engraver/

Simple CNC Machine - DIY Laser Engraver

Distance Nut m3

Y GT2 belt

MGN15H Linear rail

MGN15H block

Side plate 1

Micro switch_Micro switch

GT2 Idler Pulley

Support bracket

Side panel 1 - rail support

GT2 Pulley - Parametric_GT2 Pulley - Parametric

Y mounting plate

Stepper NEMA 17 -  20mm shaft_Stepper NEMA 17 -  20mm shaft

Side plate 2

Laser Module 5.5W

X GT2 timing belt

Y mounting plate 2

Main mounting plate

Y idler pulley support

This is a PTFE tube cutter with measurement scale for short pieces to put in a Creality Hot End or a Prusa Mini. You slide in the PTFE up to a specific length and then cut it.
Or slide a long section in and it's held at both ends so you can get a clean straight cut.

I use an exacto knife to cut the tubing in the slot but you can use any razor blade as well.

It's also 100 mm long so you can use it to mark filament when testing for E-Step calibration of the Extruder.

You can also print this in 2-Colors to make it easier to read the numbers. There are two files; a top section and a bottom section. You can find them here:
Two-Color Top Section: https://bit.ly/3jOk8E7
Two-Color Bottom Section: https://bit.ly/3xBw3Kw

More details are here: https://youtu.be/pQlZoMF0CVE

CHEP PTFE Cutter and Measurement Tool

This is a PTFE tube cutter with measurement scale for short pieces to put in a Creality Hot End or a Prusa Mini. You slide in the PTFE up to a specific length and then cut it.
Or slide a long section in and it's held at both ends so you can get a clean straight cut.

I use an exacto knife to cut the tubing in the slot but you can use any razor blade as well.

It's also 100 mm long so you can use it to mark filament when testing for E-Step calibration of the Extruder.

PTFECutter.stl

It takes about 4 hands to properly solder: two hands to hold each of the wires, one for feeding the solder and the final for holding the iron. The solder helper allows a mere two-handed mortal to solder effortlessly. 

The tool itself is simple. Two spring loaded clamps hold the wires near each other and a knob when spun dispenses solder right at the joint. Unlike flexible arms soldering stations, which need to be sat on flat surfaces, the solder helper is handheld and can be used on the go. 

The solder dispensing mechanism relies on a drive gear that is commonly used in 3D printer extruders. An adjustable smooth idler pushes the solder against the drive gear. The tension of the smooth idler can be increased or decreased through tightening or loosening an M5 bolt, respectively. This ability to change the tension of the idler allows for solder as small as 0.5mm to as large as 3mm to be dispensed. Solder is stored in the handle or pulled right off a spool depending on how mobile you need to be. 

Soldering large diameter wires requires a lot of heat, which can cause the clamps to soften if the insulation gets too hot. For this reason, the following heat resistant filaments are recommended:

Pro Series ABS: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-abs?aff=7480
or
Pro Series PETG:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-petg?aff=7480

A small amount of support is required for printing since there is an overhang present on the clamps.

Supplies are linked below:

625-2RS Bearings (x3): https://amzn.to/3F1FTdD
0.8x6x15mm Springs – or similar (x2): https://amzn.to/2ZCLnLu
Drive Gear (x1): https://amzn.to/2Y7NDKz
Low Profile M5 x 30mm Bolt (x1)
Low Profile M5 x 15mm Bolt (x1)
M5 Nuts (x2)
M3 x 20mm Socket Head Cap (x1)
M3 Nut

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

Soldering Helper

It takes about 4 hands to properly solder: two hands to hold each of the wires, one for feeding the solder and the final for holding the iron. The solder helper allows a mere two-handed mortal to solder effortlessly. 
The tool itself is simple. Two spring loaded clamps hold the wires near each other and a knob when spun dispenses solder right at the joint. Unlike flexible arms soldering stations, which need to be sat on flat surfaces, the solder helper is handheld and can be used on the go. 
The solder dispensing mechanism relies on a drive gear that is commonly used in 3D printer extruders. An adjustable smooth idler pushes the solder against the drive gear. The tension of the smooth idler can be increased or decreased through tightening or loosening an M5 bolt, respectively. This ability to change the tension of the idler allows for solder as small as 0.5mm to as large as 3mm to be dispensed.
Solder is stored in the handle or pulled right off a spool depending on how mobile you need to be. 
Review the pictures for assembly. 
Supplies are linked below (affiliate links are present):
625-2RS Bearings (x3): https://amzn.to/3F1FTdD
0.8x6x15mm Springs – or similar (x2): https://amzn.to/2ZCLnLu
Drive Gear (x1): https://amzn.to/2Y7NDKz
Low Profile M5 x 30mm Bolt (x1)
Low Profile M5 x 15mm Bolt (x1)
M5 Nuts (x2)
M3 x 20mm Socket Head Cap (x1)
M3 Nut


All-Components-Solder-Helper.stl

Designed by Tom Short and uploaded as permitted under the Creative Commons Attribution license.

The most ergonomic open-hardware keyboard on the Internet is yours for the making. Be warned: Detailed assembly instructions are not available for this keyboard, and I recommend it for experienced keyboard builders. 

The Dactyl ManuForm may look wild, but it's really just an Ergodox-style keyboard, warped and bent into a hand-cradling, comfortably-tented configuration. This is the 5x6 version, which actually has four rows of six keys under each finger.

You'll need one each of the Left, Right, Left Bottom Plate, and Right Bottom Plate. If you have access to a laser cutter, the designer recommends cutting bottom plates from the included DXF files from 3mm acrylic. Otherwise, print the STL bottom plates from the stiffest material available.

In addition to the printed parts, you'll need:
56x Cherry MX-compatible switches. I used Kailh Box Jade - https://amzn.to/3a3MNAc
56x Diodes - I used 1N4148 - https://amzn.to/3qOE9fW
52x Cherry-compatible keycaps, 1u
4x Cherry-compatible keycaps, 1.25u
10x 5mm-long M3 screws - https://amzn.to/2KIdnpV
10x M3 heat-set inserts - https://amzn.to/3oeWPnk
2x Arduino Pro Micro - https://amzn.to/3oii7Am
Rubber feet - https://amzn.to/2Nozi6u
Solid-core wire
Solder and soldering gear
Note: These are affiliate links

For more information, including the Clojure scripts used to generate these STL's, visit the repository at https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard

The Dactyl Manuform is copyright 2017 Tom Short, based on the Dactyl by Matt Adereth. The code used to generate these models is licensed GNU GPL and the models themselves are licensed Creative Commons Attribution NonCommercial Share-Alike.

Dactyl-ManuForm 5x6 Mechanical Keyboard

right-5x6.stl

3D printed AMS stacking stand. Fits the Bambu Lab AMS (for P1P and X1 series 3D printers)

> [Quick presentation video](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/__9SEiFJhKI)

**Compatibility (updated)**
Fits the 3 different versions of the AMS units. However, the fit for the older version (3 large gaps on the sides instead of 4) is slightly offset and the bottom box will protrude out a bit.

**Materials**
- about 500g of filament
- optional 10x404mm metal rod/pipe (such as an aluminum pipe) cost me about $2 at the hardware store
- optional two M3 grub screws 6-12mm long and compatible Allen (hex) key (you can find them in sets on Amazon for $10-20), OR use long normal M3 screws, like M3x30 or M3x40 and only screw in a quarter of the length
- optional felt pads for the bottom AMS unit for easier sliding

**Printing**
There's an optional small test-fit part that can be printed first for checking potential fitting issues. Let me know so I can add more files with different clearances or different rod diameters.
Pick either the decorated version or the plain version. 2 files need to be printed and they are pre-oriented, no supports required.
I prefer PETG, 2 perimeters, 12% cubic infill, and a good amount of brim. Takes close to 15 hours to print with the Generic PETG profile.

**Assembly**
Cut the metal rod to 404mm long, then insert it in both printed parts.
Fit the AMS unit at the top.
Screw in the two grub screws at the back alongside the rod to lock it in place.

If you like CAD modeling, I posted a [90-minute video with the entire workflow for creating this model](https://youtu.be/lQgtJk67J3Q).

Licensed under [CC BY-NC-SA 4.0](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/) (in short: you may use, adapt, and share these files non-commercially with attribution and under this same license).

AMS stacking stand for Bambu Lab P1P and X1 #ThangsBambuContest

AMS Stand 10mm rod - decorated left.stl

I recently started building my Voron 0.1 and one of the most frustrating aspects was the poorly labeled bags the hardware came in. Decided to make a small hardware organizer for the 0.1. 

There are 20 drawers for the 20 items listed under hardware in the BOM. There is a tiny slot for magnets (the same one used for the V0.1) that can be glued into the roof allowing you to have a small place to set a screw while working. 

Was very happy with the end design and wanted to share for anyone else that may be interested. 

Voron 0.1 Hardware Organizer

Voron 0.1 Hardware Organizer.stl

Explore an intricately designed 3D model of a desk organizer at thangs.com under the category of devices. Crafted with great precision by the talented designer Henryshop3dforu, this 3D model represents a perfect balance between functionality and aesthetics. This model is an ideal inspiration for anyone interested in adding a touch of organization and style to their workspace. This desk organizer 3D model offers a user-friendly organized system to keep all your essentials like stationary, papers, and devices at arm's reach, reducing clutter, and aiding in productivity. The images provided give a comprehensive view of the Space-friendly, compact design, sophisticated look, and clean lines. This impressively detailed 3D model of a desk organizer is a testament to the limitless possibilities of 3D modeling. For a closer look at this desk organizer 3D model, visit our website thangs.com, and discover the limitless possibilities of 3D modeling today.

Desk organizer

Desk organizer A.stl

A metric gage able to measure:
Bolts from 4-50mm in 2mm increments
Bolts from 5-100mm in 5mm increments
It also features nut recesses and bolt through holes from M2 to M12

Metric Bolt Gage.step

A space for your allen wrenches in the gridfinity setup. 2 blocks. Thanks, Zack!

Allen Wrench set gridfinity Allan

**NEW VERSION HERE:** [Creality Box Rotated Logo](https://than.gs/m/917355)

Introducing the Creality Box, a 3D printable model that lets you show your appreciation for Creality, one of the leading brands of 3D printers and accessories. This box features the Creality logo on the top and a base with 9 compartments to store and organize your tools and gadgets. It also has a latch and handles for easy opening and carrying.

The Creality Box is compatible with all the Tool Box Base with Divider models I designed, such as the ones with 2, 3, or 6 compartments. You can swap the base to create your own customized Creality box with different sizes and layouts. It will also be compatible with the future bases that I will design.

The Creality Box is a 3D printable model that you can download and print with any 3D printer and filament. It is easy to print and use, and you can print it in any color you like. You can also print it in different colors and combinations to match your Creality printer.

I created this box as a tribute to Creality, after winning a Creality K1 on the #crealityvidschallenge contest. I wanted to share my gratitude to Creality with the 3D printing community.

Download the Creality Box today and celebrate your love for Creality with this awesome box!

This is a REMIX and is protected by the Copyright Law. By downloading, YOU HAVE NO RIGHT to sell any digital files or print models of my designs without original designer explicit written consent.

To sell them legally, message the original designer.

Hope you like it! Any advice, or recommendation is welcome! Happy Printing!

I would be very grateful if you print it and put it on social networks to tag me at [@Frikarte3D](https://www.instagram.com/frikarte3d/)

If you tag me and have a private account or I don’t follow you, please send me a message so I can see your post and appreciate your work.

Creality Box

DISPLAY ONLY - Creality Box Frikarte3D.stl

Creality Box Logo R Inner Part Frikarte3D.stl

It holds 22 ciggs and has a sliding top that's locks in with a click.

I recommend printing with stronger materials. I used Carbon Fiber PC, but you can print with any other durable filament to avoid layer splitting. 

Easy prints, requires no support.  

Cigarette Case 

Cigg Case 2.stl

Cigg Case.step

Cigg Case PLA.stl

CiggCase Lid PLA.stl

Make your own super cool automated kinetic sand art table step-by-step. Including smart LED lighting.

You can see a video of it doing its thing and build instructions here: https://youtu.be/Lng_AsmfBfU

It is incredibly captivating to be beside this simple DIY wooden table as the steel ball magically carves out an endless and ever changing series of beautiful geometric patterns in the sand.

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

■ 12v Nema 17 stepper motors (x2): https://geni.us/StepperMotor
■ GT2 Timing belt (3m was used in the video): https://geni.us/TimingBelt5m
■ 5mm bore idler, 6mm or 10mm width, 20 teeth (x2): https://geni.us/6mmIdler5mmBoreToothed
■ 5mm bore idler, 6 or 10mm width, toothless (x4): https://geni.us/6mmIdlerWheel5mmBore
■ Elegoo Arduino Uno (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoUno
■ Nuts, bolts and screws (See list below): https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
■ M2.5 x 6mm bolts (for securing Raspberry Pi) (x4) - https://geni.us/PiBolt
■ Stepper drivers - TMC2208 (x2): https://geni.us/TMC2208
■ Contact switch (x3): https://geni.us/ContactSwitch
■ Arduino CNC Shield (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoCNCShield
■ Magnets, I used three x 15x3mm and one countersunk 20x7mm all high strength: https://geni.us/CountersunkMagnet https://geni.us/N52Magnets
■ 30mm 5V Fan (x1): https://geni.us/30mm5vFan
■ Micro SD Card 8Gb or higher for Raspberry Pi (x1) - https://geni.us/Micro-SD
■ Neopixels/WS2812b on a 30 per meter roll. - https://geni.us/5mWS2812B30m
■ 12mm momentary push button (x3): https://geni.us/MomentaryPush12mm
■ Some filament for the printed parts (I used PLA, including the wood infused LumberJake from 3D Jake) - https://www.3djake.com
■ Wiring blocks - five wires (x2) and three wires (x2). I used the Wago 221 series - https://geni.us/Wago221
■ Mini360 Buck Converter (x1): https://geni.us/Mini360
■ Faux leather fabric (enough to cover the surface): https://geni.us/FauxLeather
■ Steel ball - 20mm:
■ Sand (I used around 600g):

To make a table frame which measures roughly 80 x 60cm:
■ 40cm long linear rail with block - MGN12H (x2): https://geni.us/LinearRail400mm
■ 60cm long linear rail with block - MGN12H (x1): https://geni.us/LinearRail600mm
See www.diymachine.co.uk for instructions on how to build a larger or smaller version.
■ Arduino Nano (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
■ Electrical wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
■ 12v power supply - 2A or greater (x1): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply2A
■ Barrel Connector - Female (x1): https://geni.us/FemalePowerBarrel

■ Pocket hole jig: https://geni.us/PocketHoleJig

Nuts, bolts and screws needed:
■ M5 x 20mm (x6)
■ M3 x 8mm (x18)
■ M3 x 12mm (x19)
■ M3 nuts (x6)
■ M2.5 bolts for Pi (x4)
■ Short wood screws (x45)
■ Optional pocket hole screws (x24)

Quantity of 3D printed parts required:
BaseBoardMount.stl (x1)
BeltGrip.stl (x1)
ComputerCase.stl (x1)
ComputingLid.stl (x1)
ControlPanel.stl (x1)
GRBLCase.stl (x1)
GRBLCaseLid.stl (x1)
IdleSupport.stl (x2)
LED-Corner.stl (x4)
MagnetMount.stl (x1)
MotorBaseLeft.stl (x1)
MotorBaseRight.stl (x1)
PowerPanelCase.stl (x1)
PowerPanelLid.stl (x1)
WireLoop.stl (x4)
X-CarriageMount.stl (x2)
==========

DOWNLOADS:

Code, and wiring diagrams can be found and downloaded from here:
https://www.diymachines.co.uk/kinetic-sand-art-coffee-table-self-drawing

==========

SAY THANKS AND SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL:

Provide continual and dependable support through Patreon:
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/diymachines

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Kinetic Sand Art Table

Full assembly exported as STL. Includes both wood, glass and 3D portioned parts.

Sand Art Table (135).stl

Makes hotend tubes 25mm to 55mm long.

Print with 0.4mm nozzle and typical settings.

[Step-by-step instructions](https://mihaidesigns.com/ptfe-tube-jig/).

**BOM:**
- 1 M3 square nut (thick or thin)
- 1 40mm M3 screw (socket head, fully threaded)
- Printed parts (typical printing settings)
- 4mm OD, 2mm or 1.9mm ID (Capricorn XS)

**Tools:**
- Cutter
- Power drill
- Small Philips (+) screw bit or screwdriver

Pre-supported, pre-oriented, built-in supports.

Check my other projects at [mihaidesigns.com](https://mihaidesigns.com/).

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