Keep yourself company with a Dr. D-Flo action figure!

This high-fidelity model is easier to print with resin, but it makes a great torture test for filament 3D printers. 

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Dr. D-Flo Action Figure

Keep yourself company with a Dr. D-Flo action figure!

This high-fidelity model is easier to print with resin, but it makes a great torture test for filament 3D printers. 

[The Wera Joker Combination Wrench-Set (Metric)](https://amzn.to/3DHZluO) makes quick work out of tightening fasteners. A small metal plate beneath each of the jaws helps retain the bolt before you get it threaded - great feature for one-handed operation.  These wrenches also have small  teeth to limit the possibility of slipping.

This holder is _only_ for the Metric version.

**Installation**
There are two types of pegs that come with this project: 1. a notched peg and 2. a plain peg. The notched peg is the preferred mounting method because it locks the holder into place once it slides down. However, the notch peg's opening is only 2mm, so it is designed for use with sheet metal pegboards like this [one](https://amzn.to/3DJRbSu). If you have a wooden pegboard or one made out of thick material, then use the plain peg and some glue.

**Recommended Filament **
[Tough PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-tough-pla?aff=7480)

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

Wera Jocker Wrench PegBoard Holder

Wrench-Holder-Full.stl

Wera's [metric](https://amzn.to/3l0ULAp) and [SAE](https://amzn.to/3DIsTsi) hex keys are arguably the best in the business with their bright, easy-grip rubber sleeves and secure Hex-Plus technology.

This _1/4"_ pegboard mountable holder keeps these hex keys front and center. 

The holder uses [6mmx3mm magnets](https://amzn.to/3nGmJTL) to retain the hex keys. This design allows the keys to be removed in one quick motion (no lifting up and over). 

**Installation**
There are two types of pegs that come with this project: 1. a notched peg and 2. a plain peg. The notched peg is the preferred mounting method because it locks the holder into place once it slides down. However, the notch peg's opening is only 2mm, so it is designed for use with sheet metal pegboards like this [one](https://amzn.to/3DJRbSu). If you have a wooden pegboard or one made out of thick material, then use the plain peg and some glue.

**Recommended Filament **
[Tough PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-tough-pla?aff=7480)

**Printing Settings**
This model is fairly easy to print. Just use normal settings for your filament of choice and some support may be required for the notched peg. 

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

Wera Hex Keys Holder for Pegboard

Metric-Holder.stl

Mount 18 TTS holders and tools (shear hog, fly cutter etc.) to your wall with this massive organizer. 

4 through holes and 2 keyholes are used for mounting to the wall. 

**Recommended Filament**
[Tough PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-tough-pla?aff=7480)

**Print Settings**:
No Support required
100x270x270 mm print volume required

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

Massive TTS Holder (Wall Mount)

Mount 18 TTS holders and tools (shear hog, fly cutter etc.) to your wall with this massive organizer. 

4 through holes and 2 keyholes are used for mounting to the wall. 

Print Settings:
No Support required
100x270x270 mm print volume required

Form = function. A large bolt that can store many bolts inside of itself. Just a fun organizer for storing fasteners and other small tools or consumables laying around your garage. 

This is a modular system where an infinite number of nut blocks can be chained together with the joiner. 

Every 7th nut block is 16" away (on center) from the 1st, allowing for easy and sturdy mounting to studs in the wall.

**Recommended Filament**
[Tough PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-tough-pla?aff=7480)

**Print Settings**
0.4mm Nozzle
0.2mm Layer Height
15% Infill
No Support

Please note that you want the bolt to easily thread into the nut block. On the other hand, the cap should thread a little bit tightly onto the bolt. Please leave a comment on this model if the fitting is too tight or loose for either threading.

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

Modular Bolt Organizer 

Modular-Bolt-Organizer-Multi-part.stl

Raw STEP file of the best fitting 3D printable case for the iPhone 13 Pro. 

Add your logo or change this design in any way you see fit

Please respect the Creative Common License (no commercial use). 

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Customizable iPhone 13 Pro Case

Raw STEP file of the best fitting 3D printable case for the iPhone 13 Pro. 

Add your logo or change this design in any way you see fit

Please respect the Creative Common License (no commercial use). 

Spice up your living room or kitchen with these lattice lamp shades. These shades cast intricate geometric shadows that are sure to catch the attention of your guests. They are designed for E26/E27 lamp sockets and can be used with standard lamps or pendant lights, such as [these](https://amzn.to/3nCTKjE). 

There are four different lattice structures on this page – so make sure you explore all of them.

**Filament**:
These models are designed to be printed without support material, and therefore, filament that can bridge (i.e., print unsupported features) is a must. For this reason, a PLA-based filament is ideal. However, PLA exhibits very low heat resistance – softening at 60C. Tungsten bulbs, especially Edison bulbs, can reach temperatures more than 70C. Heat treatable PLA has similar bridging properties as normal PLA, but once annealed (heated to around 225F for an hour or so) it will achieve improved thermal properties. Therefore, [heat treatable PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/proto-pasta/proto-pasta-htpla-series?aff=7480) is always recommended for printing these lamp shades. It is also best practice to only use these shades with insulating plastic sockets (versus metal ones that will heat up). 

Print Settings:
- A 200x200 mm build area is required.
- Print with settings that allow your printer to bridge (low extrusion temperature, increased part cooling, etc.).
- Support is not required but can be used if you are having difficulties 

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

Cylindrical Lattice Lamp Shades for E26 or E27

IsoTruss-Cylindrical-Shade.stl

A 3D Printable organizer for your desk or workbench. Store your calipers, tape measurer, flash drives, SD cards (both full size and micro), and your writing utensils. A phone stand is integrated into the organizer, which is compatible with Mag Safe for wireless charging. Underneath the phone stand are three drawers for storing cables or small parts that would otherwise get lost. 

There are a couple different versions of this model. You can choose to have the cutout for the Mag Safe, but Android users may prefer to go without this feature. The other option is to print the organizer with accents or without. 

If you choose the model with the accents, then please note this model was NOT designed to be printed with dual extrusion. The accents need to be attached with super glue or a similar adhesive. The reasoning for this is because most people do not have access to dual extrusion or a printer with two extruders that can print a 120 mm x 235 mm x 120 mm (LxWxH) part. Examine the accents before gluing them down. The accent on the left side should match the radius on the back of the organizer and come to a point a with the accent that runs along the front.

My favorite filament for printing this model:
- [Grey marble PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/pro-series-pla/sk/MHW2R5AY?aff=7480)
- [Silky PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/mh-build-series/mh-build-series-silky-pla?aff=7480)


**Print Settings**
0.4mm Nozzle
0.2mm Layer Height
Support: Print Support for overhangs less than 55 degrees. 

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.


Engineer's Desk Organizer

Organizer-Plain.stl

The iPhone 13 Pro has been touted as the dream phone for photographers and cinematographers alike. With its three camera system and ability to record in ProRes at 4K this phone is great for vloggers and small video productions. However, the sleek design of the phone makes it impossible to mount common accessories needed to capture the perfect shot, such as LEDs, microphones or even a tripod. 

My 3D Printable cinematic case fills this void by allowing accessories with the standard 1/4-20 threading to be bolted to the case. Also, three cold shoe mounts allow microphones, handles and other large components to be securely attached to the phone.

To create this case, it is highly recommended to use a 3D printer that is capable of dual extrusion prints. The case was designed in such a way that the perimeter and the back of the phone need to be printed out of a flexible TPU filament and the infill of the sides need to be printed from a rigid material, like PLA. This blend between flexible and rigid filament allows for a rugged, shock-absorbing case that can support heavier accessories without the case flexing. 

If you only have a single extruder, then you can print the case out of TPU, but the 1/4-20 heat set inserts will not be able to resist high torsion forces. Also, large accessories secured to the cold shoe mount may lean. 

**Recommended filament**:
1. [Flexible NinjaTek Cheetah TPU](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/NinjaTek/ninjatek-cheetah-series?aff=7480) (95A recommended )
2. [Tough PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-tough-pla?aff=7480)

**Print Settings for Case Body:**
- Extrusion Width: 0.4mm
- Layer Height: 0.2mm
- Top/Bottom Solid Layers: 5
- Perimeter Layers: 2
- Infill 100%
- Seed: 2500-3500 mm/min
- Ooze Shield on
- Heated Bed: 50C
- Support: On

_Extruder 1 (Top/Bottom Solid Layers, Perimeter, and Support):_
- Flexible NinjaTek Armadillo TPU
- Temperature: 235C

_Extruder 2 (Infill):_
- PLA (or other rigid filament).
- Temperature: 205

_Support_:
Support structures are needed at the overhang that will wrap around the phone screen.


**Print Settings for Buttons and Camera Protector:**
- Single extrusion print out of PLA or any other rigid filament


**Other components needed:**
1/4-20 Heat Set inserts with 6mm length: https://amzn.to/2ZWSTS3 


**Assembly:**

A soldering iron is required to sink the threaded inserts into the phone case. The heat inserts should be inserted before putting the case on your phone!

The volume and power buttons are installed prior to inserting the phone. A small amount of super glue can be used to keep these buttons in place during assembly, but this step is not necessary.

The camera protector elevates the case off of the table to protect the protruding camera lens. This component is not a square and it matters, which direction you place it.

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

License: Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs


Cinematic Case for iPhone 13 Pro

Cinematic-Case-Main-Body.stl

Hands down the best 3D printable phone case for your iPhone 13 pro. I have been working on the design since the release of the phone, slowly tweaking it to get the fit just right.

**3D Printing Filament**
The case body should be printed out of [NinjaTek Cheetah](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/NinjaTek/ninjatek-cheetah-series?aff=7480) or any TPU with a hardness of 95A: 

The camera protector, volume rocker, and power button should be printed out a of a rigid plastic (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc.). My favorite is [silk gold pla](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/silky-gold-mh-build-series-pla-filament-175mm-1kg/sk/MAQNPYVJ?aff=7480)

This is not a dual extrusion print. Print the components separately 

**3D Printing Settings:**
Infill: 100%
Top/Bottom Layers: 3
Perimeter Shells: 2
Support: Yes - it is needed on the inside overhang - consult picture
Nozzle Diameter: 0.35 mm
Extrusion Width: 0.4 mm
Layer Height 0.2 mm

**Assembly**
THE CAMERA PROTECTOR IS NOT A SQUARE. IT IS SLIGHTLY LONGER FROM TOP TO BOTTOM WHEN HOLDING THE PHONE UPRIGHT

You can use a small amount of super glue to hold the buttons in place although this not necessary once that phone has been placed in the case.

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

iPhone 13 Pro Lattice Cases

iPhone-13-Pro-Case-Cascading-Triangles.stl

It takes about 4 hands to properly solder: two hands to hold each of the wires, one for feeding the solder and the final for holding the iron. The solder helper allows a mere two-handed mortal to solder effortlessly. 

The tool itself is simple. Two spring loaded clamps hold the wires near each other and a knob when spun dispenses solder right at the joint. Unlike flexible arms soldering stations, which need to be sat on flat surfaces, the solder helper is handheld and can be used on the go. 

The solder dispensing mechanism relies on a drive gear that is commonly used in 3D printer extruders. An adjustable smooth idler pushes the solder against the drive gear. The tension of the smooth idler can be increased or decreased through tightening or loosening an M5 bolt, respectively. This ability to change the tension of the idler allows for solder as small as 0.5mm to as large as 3mm to be dispensed. Solder is stored in the handle or pulled right off a spool depending on how mobile you need to be. 

Soldering large diameter wires requires a lot of heat, which can cause the clamps to soften if the insulation gets too hot. For this reason, the following heat resistant filaments are recommended:

Pro Series ABS: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-abs?aff=7480
or
Pro Series PETG:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-filament/pro-series-petg?aff=7480

A small amount of support is required for printing since there is an overhang present on the clamps.

Supplies are linked below:

625-2RS Bearings (x3): https://amzn.to/3F1FTdD
0.8x6x15mm Springs – or similar (x2): https://amzn.to/2ZCLnLu
Drive Gear (x1): https://amzn.to/2Y7NDKz
Low Profile M5 x 30mm Bolt (x1)
Low Profile M5 x 15mm Bolt (x1)
M5 Nuts (x2)
M3 x 20mm Socket Head Cap (x1)
M3 Nut

**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

Soldering Helper

It takes about 4 hands to properly solder: two hands to hold each of the wires, one for feeding the solder and the final for holding the iron. The solder helper allows a mere two-handed mortal to solder effortlessly. 
The tool itself is simple. Two spring loaded clamps hold the wires near each other and a knob when spun dispenses solder right at the joint. Unlike flexible arms soldering stations, which need to be sat on flat surfaces, the solder helper is handheld and can be used on the go. 
The solder dispensing mechanism relies on a drive gear that is commonly used in 3D printer extruders. An adjustable smooth idler pushes the solder against the drive gear. The tension of the smooth idler can be increased or decreased through tightening or loosening an M5 bolt, respectively. This ability to change the tension of the idler allows for solder as small as 0.5mm to as large as 3mm to be dispensed.
Solder is stored in the handle or pulled right off a spool depending on how mobile you need to be. 
Review the pictures for assembly. 
Supplies are linked below (affiliate links are present):
625-2RS Bearings (x3): https://amzn.to/3F1FTdD
0.8x6x15mm Springs – or similar (x2): https://amzn.to/2ZCLnLu
Drive Gear (x1): https://amzn.to/2Y7NDKz
Low Profile M5 x 30mm Bolt (x1)
Low Profile M5 x 15mm Bolt (x1)
M5 Nuts (x2)
M3 x 20mm Socket Head Cap (x1)
M3 Nut


All-Components-Solder-Helper.stl

Lamp shade with a hexagon lattice pattern. This shade will fit on E26/E27 Sockets. 

I used a pendant light socket like this one: https://amzn.to/3xy9UwY

Printable volume required: 250x250x200mm

**Filament**:
These models are designed to be printed without support material, and therefore, filament that can bridge (i.e., print unsupported features) is a must. For this reason, a PLA-based filament is ideal. However, PLA exhibits very low heat resistance – softening at 60C. Tungsten bulbs, especially Edison bulbs, can reach temperatures more than 70C. Heat treatable PLA has similar bridging properties as normal PLA, but once annealed (heated to around 225F for an hour or so) it will achieve improved thermal properties. Therefore, [heat treatable PLA](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/proto-pasta/proto-pasta-htpla-series?aff=7480) is always recommended for printing these lamp shades. It is also best practice to only use these shades with insulating plastic sockets (versus metal ones that will heat up). 


**Socials:**
[Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/c/drdflo)
[Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/dr.dflo)

Please note that affiliate links are present to support the creation of these models.

Lamp Shade with Hexagon Lattice

Lamp shade with a hexagon lattice pattern. This shade will fit on E26/E27 Sockets. 

I used a pendant light socket like this one: https://amzn.to/3xy9UwY

Printable volume required: 250x250x200mm

I printed this model without supports, but supports may be warranted depending on your printer's ability to bridge. 

This bracket accepts a cabinet magnetic catch - specifically this one: https://amzn.to/2RBl9pc

The bracket is designed to be mounted on the top or bottom of the aluminum extrusion above the door with m5 bolts and t-nuts. This connection is slotted to be able to position the magnetic catch at the right height. 

The catch can be glued onto the mount or bolted. To bolt it the following supplies are required:

M3 Heat-Set Insert: https://amzn.to/3py9p33
M3 Countersunk Bolts: https://amzn.to/3zcRVh6

The other end of the catch - usually a piece of steel - will bolt right on to the frame. Be sure to match both sides of catch up with each other. 

Please note: that this final model is slightly different than the one pictured after making a couple of upgrades. 

Magnetic Door Catch for Aluminum Extrusion Doors

This holder keeps the OpenBuilds Probe close to the router. It bolts on to 2020 aluminum extrusion with M5 nuts and T nuts. 

My probe wires stay are on the machine, so I don't need to store them with the probe. If you do, then I suggest this awesome model: https://openbuilds.com/projectresources/xyz-probe-plus-holder.355/

Dimensions:
60x60x19mm

Holder for OpenBuilds XYZ Probe

This holder attaches to 2020 aluminum extrusion via M5 bolts and T-nuts. It comfortably holds the OpenBuilds Interface at a 35 degree up towards you.

There are slight lips on either side of the holder to prevent the Interface from sliding off on either the left or right side. These lips are small enough that they don't interfere with the flashdrive or USB ports on the side. However, you may need a couple supports during the printing process. 

Approx. 165mm x 100mm

OpenBuilds Interface Holder

A light bulb made out of a Voronoi lattice structure with an addressable LED. The shadows created by this lighting fixture are awesome.

Please note that this will be incredibly difficult to print on a filament 3D printer, but could be accomplished if using a small diameter nozzle and water soluble supports. I printed mine on an SLS printer.

The bottom thread was a friction fit with the top of the bulb. Depending on your printer, you may need to do some sanding. 

The addressable LED was cut off a strand of LEDs (https://amzn.to/3uZQgsc). Because it is only 1 LED, this bulb is not going to be very bright, but it will provide cool lighting effects in a dark room. The LED was hot glued into place and wired to an Arduino. 

I have a video on programming these LEDs:
https://youtu.be/bdIij70_VN0 


Voronoi Light Bulb

Voronoi-Light-Bulb.stl

This holder organizers your endmills and ER11 collets while bolting to a piece of 4040 aluminum extrusion, like the one present on OpenBuild's Lead1010 router stand. The point of this design is to keep everything you need as close to the router as possible.

There is also a small tray for the collet nut wrench, allen key, and miscellaneous tools that need to be near the router. 

The right side of the organizer can hold 28 endmills with a 1/4" shank and 35 endmills with a 1/8" shank.

The left side of the organizer can hold 9 endmills with a 1/4" diameter. The extra space allows you to store V-bits and other large cutters. 

To prevent the cutters for getting damaged, this model comes with two covers for the left and right sections of the endmill storage. A cutout in the back of the covers allows them to be removed horizontally, so that you don't have to worry about clearing the endmills before moving the lid away. 

The component that bolts the organizer to the 4040 leg needs to be fastened to the organizer through M5 heat-set inserts and corresponding bolts. 

Print Settings:
20% Infill

Total Size: 200 x 150mm

Endmill and Collet Holder for Lead1010 CNC Router

Bit-Holder-1.stl

These stair clamps are for CNC routers with wasteboards that have m5 inserts. These clamps differ from other models because the stairs feature large steps (1/8" tall) that are angled in such a way to trap the opposite steps of the teeth - less slippage.

In addition to the clamp, a large m5 bolt is needed. 

3D Printing:
30% Infill
It is recommended to print the stairs and clamps on their sides to increase the resolution of the steps. 

Stair Clamps

3in-Stairs.stl

This jig is designed to be used with the ultra low-profile clamp. Before the bolts are tightened, the jig can be slid to force the stock material up against the face of the low profile clamps. This makes the most out of the small 1.5mm travel of the ultra low-profile clamps.

This jig is for use with CNC routers that have wasteboards/tables with M5 threaded inserts, like these: https://amzn.to/3wUoazT or aluminum extrusion with T-nuts. This jig will work for hole spacings of 10, 25, 50mm.

Dimensions: 175mm x 175mm

3D Printing Parameters:
30% Infill

Check out this video see my 3D printed work holding in action: https://youtu.be/cU-LR5Mn9fY

Low-Profile Sliding Right Angle Jig

This is a low-profile 3D printed clamp (1/4" tall) that presses into your stock material from the side when a 90 degree countersink bolt is screwed through it. 

The entire clamp is 1/4" tall, so it is great for thin pieces of stock material that need to be carved/machined on the entire top side.

This clamp is for use with CNC routers that have wasteboards/tables with M5 threaded inserts, like these: https://amzn.to/3wUoazT or aluminum extrusion with T-nuts.

The total movement of the clamp is 1.5mm. This isn't much, so it is recommended to pair this clamp with the low profile sliding right-angle jig. This jig allows you to press the stock material right up against the face of the material, then all 1.5mm of travel will translate to holding force. 

The arrow should point towards the stock material.

Materials:
It is strongly recommended to purchase this bolt from McMaster-Carr because its 90 degree profile is what actually forces the clamp forward when it is tightened: https://www.mcmaster.com/91294A211/ 

3D Printing Parameters:
-100% infill 
-Due to the small features and high clamping forces, it would be optimal to SLA print this model out of a tough resin 

Check out this video see my 3D printed work holding in action: https://youtu.be/cU-LR5Mn9fY

Ultra Low-Profile Clamp

A low profile clamp for securing wood and plastic to a CNC router's wasteboard while still having full access to the top of the stock. 

There are two version of this clamp, which differ based on how the the threading is added. This version uses a common M5 hex nut that is pressed into place with your finger. This is a cheaper and easier alternative than the second method of adding threading with a heat-set insert, but it is not as strong (the nut could spin if the bolt is tightened too hard).

The clamp is secured through M5 bolts, and therefore, your wasteboard must have threaded insets (like these: https://amzn.to/2TunKBK)

Model fits within a 135 x 35 x 25mm volume.

Materials required for assembly:
-1/4 x 1-1/4" Metal dowel x2 (https://amzn.to/3g4d2th)
-M5 Nut (McMaster-Carr: 90592A095)
-25mm M5 Bolt (McMaster-Carr: 93070A129)

3D Printing Settings:
-Can be printed without support. Highest infill possible is recommended for rigidity. 

The Toe clamp pairs wells with the Universal Right Angle Jig

Check out this video see my 3D printed work holding in action: https://youtu.be/cU-LR5Mn9fY

Low Profile Toe Clamp for CNC Router (Hex Nut Version)

Stubber-Clamp-Bottom-HEX.stl

Bolt this jig down to your wasteboard to quickly square up work. Combine this with a toe clamp and  you can securely grip your work with obscuring the top.

A long slot on each of the legs of the right angle allows for wasteboards with different insert spacings to be used. 

This piece is compatible with M5 bolts.

Part fits within a volume of 175 x 175 x 10 mm

Right Angle Jig for CNC Router

Bolt this jig down to your wasteboard to quickly square up work. Combine this with a toe clamp and you can quickly and securely grip your work. 

A long slot on each of the legs of the right angle allows for wasteboards with different insert spacings to be used. 

Part fits within a volume of 175 x 175 x 10 mm

A low profile clamp for securing wood and plastic to a CNC router's wasteboard while still having full access to the top of the stock. 

There are two version of this clamp, which differ based on how the the threading is added. This version uses a threaded insert that is pressed in by a soldering iron. The insert has a flange on to prevent it from getting pulled out of place. Compared to the second version, which uses a hex nut, the heat-set insert model can be tightened harder for further clamping force.

The clamp is secured through M5 bolts, and therefore, your wasteboard must have threaded insets (like these: https://amzn.to/2TunKBK)

Model fits within a 135 x 35 x 25mm volume.

Materials required for assembly:
-1/4 x 1-1/4" Metal dowel x2 (https://amzn.to/3g4d2th)
-M5 Het-Set Threaded Insert (McMaster-Carr: 97171A350)
-25mm M5 Bolt (McMaster-Carr: 93070A129)

Equipment Required:
Soldering iron for putting the heat set insert into place

3D Printing Settings:
-Can be printed without support. Highest infill possible is recommended for rigidity. 

The Toe clamp pairs wells with the Universal Right Angle Jig

Check out this video see my 3D printed work holding in action: https://youtu.be/cU-LR5Mn9fY

Low Profile Toe Clamp for CNC Router (Heat-Set Insert Version)

Toe Clamp Bottom

Maker and YouTuber - find me over at YouTube.com/c/DrDFlo

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