This collection features both whole and sliced icosahedrons. An icosahedron has 20 faces and is a polyhedron and platonic solid.

For customization, the Fusion 360 file is included with adjustable parameters for height and fillet. For optimal print quality.

Use the .STEP files for the best printing speed and quality.

Time-lapse:
https://youtu.be/LSr7FCykU78



Icosahedron Collection

Here is Green tree frog HD, this terrifyingly beautiful green tree frog, is an absolute must have, to either enjoy it's beauty or just terrify your family. This model is an upgraded re-sculpted version of the old green tree frog I did a while back, but utilizes a lot more knowledge and high grade software to really bring it too life. Print settings, supports needed, support type normal, support placement touching build plate, support overhang angle 60%, support density 8%, Nozzle size 0.4mm, layer height 0.1mm to really show the High definition in this model. Print speed 50ms, infill 15%, Infill pattern Grid, Wall count 4, 

Green tree frog HD

Green Tree Frog Hd.stl

**This is a full remix of the Fancy Hextraction Game Boards by Zack Freedman.**

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**_Would love to see some of your prints!  Thanks to those that have already uploaded photos!_ **

_Almost finished my Modular Game Board remix! follow me to see when it goes up!_

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This remix changes lots things, features that I wanted for my game board, these include: 
1. Full gutters.
2. Easy to print with no supports. 
3. Use less filament.
4. Prints quicker.
Compared to a full board with gutters it is all of the above, however with all the extras it may end up using more filament. But I'm not totally sure on this as I haven't bothered to do the math.

I wanted a board that was quick and easy to set up, and would pack up for travelling securely.  That holds everything needed all together. (except for the tiles)

It also adds a few new things:

**Full Gutters**
All gutters travel down a "pipe" on the outsides of the game board, and end up in the middle section in-between the two goals (see photos, the area with the crosses). This allows some tiles that pick up the ball from the play area gutters to still be used, without picking up the out of play gutter balls.  
The exception to this is the top middle gutter, which funnels back into the middle channel gutter. 
(Some of the photos will show an older version that funneled balls back into the 2 outermost channels)

**Custom Height**
The standard height of the game board is 5 from on ramp to goal. With this version its easy to print any height you wish. The side gutters are modular and reversible (same file for left and right sides). For each extra row of height just print 5 extra gutters, 1 single row 5 plate and 2 side gutters. 
I printed a 6 high as shown in the photos, and the instructions below are for a 6 high board. 

**Ball Holders**
The ball holders are a convenient way of storing the balls. When removing from the back of the board, don't fully unscrew the bolts. Do it just enough to release it from the board and the balls will stay in the holder. 
They also double as a ball dispenser for each player. Fully unscrew one end, and unscrew the other end almost fully, so to act as a foot, and the balls will all roll down as you take a ball. (see photos)

**Dice Holder**
Will fit a max size of 2x15mm dice, for single player mode. The bolt on one end serves to hold the dice in place securely, and also allows for smaller dice to be placed in it.  

**Coins and Holder**
These can be used to keep track of how many wins you have had for those that are extra competitive! 
Or they can be used in a new "game mode" where you place 3-5 coins in each goal. Whenever a ball goes in a goal collect as many coins as there are balls that made it into the goals this turn. This encourages multi ball plays as you get coins for all balls, from both goals, that go in that turn. 
Once a ball/s have entered the goal, coins have been collected, the game board is reset as usual, but with less coins in the goals.  Keep playing till a player has greater than half the coins, they are the winner! 

**Printable Spanner**
While not strictly needed as finger tight for all bolts is fine. I included them as kids found it hard to do/undo the bolts without it. 
They are also used as a spacer in the back legs when detached and bolted to the back for travel/storage, without them the legs do not hold as securely, so I would recommend printing 2 just for this reason. 


**Print Settings**
All files are in the correct scaling and orientation recommended to print them.
All parts are design to be printed easily without supports. 
I used 0.2 layer height, 2 perimeters and 15% gyroid infill. 
With the exception of the Bolts, Spanner and BackMounts that I did with 3 perimeters, and 40% infill.
The main goal area (Goals.stl) is quite large and on my printer, an Ender 5, it needed to be rotated 45 degrees to fit. 
I have included the goals cut in half for smaller printers, then just glue the 2 halves together. However I have not printed them to see if it works. 

**How many to print**
This remix includes all the files needed except for the Plates. Grab them from the original. Or I used the plates for small printers here:  https://than.gs/m/860793
If like me you wanted to print the 6 (or more) tile height version (6 tiles from On ramp to Goals) then you will also need the plate single row found here: https://than.gs/m/857242

**For the 6 tile high version**
BackMount.stl x 16 (If not printing dice holder or coin holder use less as appropriate) 
BallHolder.stl x 4 - Suggestion only, each holds 9 balls and a total of 4 will be able to fit on a 6 Height board. If not using the dice or coin holders 2 more spots could be used for extra ball holders. 
BoltFeet.stl x 2  - I find these work better for the feet. You can use all of this type or all of the hex type, or a mix of both.
BoltHex.stl  x 16 - If printing everything, if not use less as appropriate. 
Coin.stl  x 10 - Optional
CoinHolder.stl  x 1 - Optional
GoalsFixed.stl  x 1
Gutter.stl  x 22
GutterHalf.stl  x 3
GutterLegMount_L.stl  x 1
GutterLegMount_R.stl  x 1
GutterSides.stl  x8
GutterTopMiddle.stl  x 1
Leg.stl  x 2
LegExtention.stl  x 2
OnRamp.stl  x 2
Spanner x 2  (While not technically needed they are used as a spacer so when the legs are screwed into the back the bolts are able to tighten correctly.)


**Assembly**
For assembly I found it easiest to glue together in the following order. 

1. Depending on what configuration of plate you used, glue them together first.
2. Then glue all gutters and half gutters to the base plates.
3. Next glue all the side gutters on.
4. Then glue the left and right leg supports, on ramps then the top middle gutter.
5. Lastly the Goals.

If you printed the mounts for the legs and ball holders (BackMounts.stl) glue these in next. 
For these make sure that the bevel is facing outwards from the ball holders. (see photos) 

1. Glue the 4 on closest to the goals
2. Using the ball holder, screw one end into one of the BackMounts that were just glued. 
Screw an un-glued BackMount into the other end of the ball mount. 
3. Mark out with pencil or just scratch a small mark where to line up the BackMount to. Take the ball holder off and glue the BackMount to the board lining it up with the mark you just made. 
4. Glue them on carefully one by one, double checking first to make sure measurements are correct.
5. The next row of 4 should be 1cm above the last row, making sure the tabs are facing correctly. (see photo)
Again checking carefully mark out where the last row should go by spacing it out as done for the second row. 

That's it! ~ you are ready to play Hextraction!

Thanks for checking out my remix! If there are any issues let me know. This is my first time ever uploading a 3D printing file! I hope you enjoy!




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** If you downloaded prior to 9th November 2023 please read below and re download. 
It has come to my attention that the Goals.stl  gutters are slightly too wide (by 0.45mm each side) This may cause issues with balls going down the outsides. 
Fixed version is now uploaded GoalsFixed.stl Please redownload if you have the old version. 

If you have already printed, but not glued the goals, and don't what to re-print the full goal piece again. I have added GutterSideLeftFix.stl and GutterSideRightFix.stl. These are both adjusted so that they will line up with the old Goal.stl. Only print 1 of each and place them just before the goal. The end with the L or R should go closest to the Goal piece as that's the end I adjusted.  Ignore this if you haven't printed anything yet. Only print these if you printed the old Goals.stl and do not want to re print the fixed GoalsFixed.stl version.

Sorry about that!! Worked fine for me so didn't really question it. Hopefully its a small enough amount that most who have already printed and glued should work. Perhaps a bit of force inwards on the outer two sides as you glue may be enough? However I'd just print the fixed version to be sure.
Sorry again!**

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Super Fancy Remix of the Hextraction Game Board

5-15 Plate.stl

ALLDONTPRINT.stl

Coin.stl

BallHolder.stl

BackMounts.stl

GutterHalf.stl

Gutter.stl

GutterSides.stl

GutterTopMiddle.stl

GutterLegMount_L.stl

GutterLegMount_R.stl

DiceHolder.stl

CoinHolder.stl

BoltHex.stl

BoltFeet.stl

LegExtention.stl

Spanner.stl

OnRamp.stl

LegFixed.stl

GoalsFixed.stl

GutterSidesLeftFix.stl

GutterSidesRightFix.stl

BoltFeetLong.stl

Goal_Left_SmallPrinters.stl

Goal_Right_SmallPrinters.stl

தமிழ் எழுத்துக்களுடன் பகடை
A unique non-Isohedral die with every letter of the Tamil Alphabet on its faces. 
Note that this die is based on pyritohedral 36-hedron, which has two types of faces, however the die is still almost fair because the areas of the faces were balanced in such a way that they have practically the same probability of being landed on.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/tamil-alphabet-d36-polyhedral-die

Tamil Alphabet d36 Polyhedral Die

tamil.stl

Christmas tree puzzle

print in place
no supports
20 percent infill

Christmas tree puzzle

egle.STL

if you want any of these files just contact me on discord username there is kami2kaz or hmu on telegram @Kami3kaz $20

glock switch read description 

Gits_backer_collar_Single.stl

A simple desk stand for iPad / iPad Pro / Android Tablets

2 models with slightly different rake angles - 60deg & 65deg.

iPad / iPad Pro / Tablet Desk Stand

iPad Stand 65deg.stl

**Description**
     The SpaceX Ship “Starship S24" and Booster **“SuperHeavy B7"** model is a highly detailed 1:200 scale reproduction of the rocket currently under development for SpaceX's space transportation missions. The model consists of several pieces printed separately, which are easy to print and assemble.

**Dimensions**
     The finished model dimensions are approximately 25cm high and 9cm wide for the Starship S24, and 35cm high and 8cm wide for the Booster B7.

**Printing**
- There are 31 pieces to print, including 13 pieces for the Starship S24 and 8 pieces for the SuperHeavy B7 booster. 
- The total printing time for the entire model is approximately 30 hours.

**Choosing your base configuration**
     There are multiple configuration options available for this model, depending on your printing and assembly preferences. More help in the assembly and printing guide.

    Assembly configurations

- Complete assembly of the model with the **"Base_Stack_Black"** stand
- Two-part assembly with the Starship on the **"Base_V_SS_Black"** stand and the SuperHeavy on the **"Base_V_SH_Black"** stand for a more dynamic display. Whatever your choice, the model is easy to print and assemble.

**Settings**
- For infill, 10% is sufficient for a decorative object, and you can also use PrusaSlicer's "Lightning" infill settings. 
- For some parts, supports will be necessary.

**Printing**
- For a better final result, I recommend printing the Jonction_Block last so that you can adjust their size according to your print and have a better fit during assembly. 
If some parts are loose or don't fit, you can change the scale by +/- 1% in the slicer to get a better fit. 
- The parts are positioned in the optimal direction for printing. 
- For the base, it is recommended to print with 4 perimeters to avoid visible infill.

**Post Printing**
- You may need to sand the junction areas between the parts for a smoother finish.
 Additionally, I recommend using glue for better strength and durability.
- Use the assembly guide for assembly and printing advice.

Starship

SH_Raptor_Black_x1.stl

Explore an extraordinary 3D model presented on Thangs.com. Designed by the imaginative Free Heathen Workshop, this model, known as "The Hard Boiler Automaton," showcases a steam power robot spaceship that instills a sense of excitement and curiosity for fans of science fiction and hobbies & games. This novelty 3D model has been made for painting and offers infinite possibilities for detail and creativity. The eccentric steam-powered design and spaceship theme provide a whimsical and enthralling addition to any hobbyist or game enthusiast's collection. Enjoy the fusion of technology and creativity with 'The Hard Boiler Automaton,' and embrace the endless fun it offers. Whether you plan to use it in projects like Darkstar or Beacon of Doom or have it as a unique standalone piece, it is accessible to all for enjoyment and exploration. Take a dive into the world of designer Maker Millwright and let the journey of creativity begin.

FHW The Hard boiler Automaton

FHW_ The Hard boiler Automaton.stl

cheeky low poly Spaceship remixed from bugman_140's lowest poly anything :P

low poly spaceship.stl

Hey,
congrats on discovering my Jupiter Ceiling Lamp, designed using genuine NASA data!

Here's how to print it, but you'll also need to acquire a few additional items: a lamp socket, a bulb, screws with a diameter of 6-8mm, suitable wall plugs ("dübel" in German), or ceiling-appropriate glue.

Jupiter (the shade):

    Print it solid with no supports to maintain the lithophane effect.
    Set the layer height at 0.2mm and width at 0.4mm.
    I recommend using concentric infill at 100%, or set the wall thickness to about 100mm for a similar outcome, which is my preferred method.
    I'll provide the Cura Profile I used for printing. Import it, but verify that the layer width and height are correctly set, as they sometimes do not import accurately.

Plate and Cylinder:

    Print these components using your preferred profile; they do not require supports.

Assembly:

    Refer to the last image for a guide on the internal assembly. You can slightly compress the cylinder to fit into the plate's hole.

For mounting the lamp to the ceiling, you will need:

    3 screws: Choose screws with a diameter of 6-8mm, along with the corresponding wall plugs ("dübel").
    Alternative Method: If you prefer not to drill, you can also opt to securely glue the plate to the ceiling.

Parts for Assembly:

Bulb I use:

EU:

https://ebay.us/yB4Acp

US:
https://ebay.us/oTWuS1

Enjoy illuminating your space with your new ceiling lamp!

Scaling the Lamp:
Feel free to adjust the size of the lamp as needed. The shades in this post are designed to fit onto the socket provided. Indeed, the Jupiter shade is also interchangeable with the other lamp designs that will be introduced soon.

Why is Jupiter labeled Incorrect?:
Please note that I've positioned Jupiter's 'Great Red Spot' at the top for aesthetic reasons, though it's traditionally on the southern hemisphere, rendering this depiction astronomically inaccurate.

Common Problems and Solutions:

    Slicing Jupiter Model Error:
        Problem: An error message appears when attempting to slice the Jupiter model.
        Solution: Slightly scale the model, for instance to 100.1%, and try slicing it again.

    Plate Doesn't Fit:
        Problem: The plate does not fit properly.
        Solution: Incrementally scale the plate in the X and Y directions until it fits perfectly.

Make sure to use the appropriate screws and wall plugs for secure ceiling mounting, or alternatively, use a strong adhesive for a drill-free installation. Always test the fit after each adjustment for optimal assembly.

Jupiter Ceiling Lamp

Jupiter 200mm incorrect.stl

Hey,
congrats on finding my Jupiter Night Light, crafted with authentic NASA data!

Here's how to print it, but note you'll need to purchase a lamp socket and a bulb separately.

Jupiter (the shade):

    Print it solid with no supports to preserve the lithophane effect.
    Set the layer height at 0.2mm and the width at 0.4mm.
    Use concentric infill at 100%, or alternatively, set the wall thickness to about 100mm, which is my preferred method for the same result.
    I'll upload the Cura Profile I used for printing. You can import it, but please double-check that the layer width and height are correct, as they sometimes import incorrectly.

Plate and Cylinder:

    These can be printed with any preferred profile and don't require supports.

Assembly:

    The last image demonstrates the internal setup. The cylinder can be slightly compressed to fit into the plate's hole.

Parts for Assembly:

EU Socket:
https://ebay.us/PRcPvm

US Socket:
https://ebay.us/hBRN1i

Purchasing through these links supports my work!

Bulb:

EU:
https://ebay.us/yB4Acp

US:

https://ebay.us/oTWuS1

Enjoy your new lamp!

Additionally, you can scale up the lamp size if desired. The shades featured in this post are compatible with the socket of this lamp. In fact, the Jupiter shade can be mounted onto both the mentioned lamps (more details coming soon).

Common Problems and Solutions:

    Issue with Slicing Jupiter:
        Problem: An error occurs when slicing the Jupiter model.
        Solution: Scale the model up by a very small amount, such as to 100.1%, and try slicing again.

    Plate Doesn't Fit:
        Problem: The plate doesn't fit as intended.
        Solution: Adjust the scale of the plate in the X and Y directions until it meets your requirements.

Why is Jupiter Labeled Incorrect?:
The 'Great Red Spot' of Jupiter is typically located in the southern hemisphere. For visibility on the lamp, I've positioned it at the top, leading to an astronomically incorrect depiction.


Jupiter Night Light

Introducing the NASA moon lamp with a perfect 3.6cm diameter hole for a tealight, designed by Mihovec Design and available on Thangs.com. An epitome of innovation in the Arts & Entertainment category, this 3D model is designed using the authentic NASA CGI Moon Kit for a highly realistic representation of our celestial neighbor. Your model will mirror the lunar surface for a fascinating conversation piece in any setting.

Create your very own moon lamp with the placement of a tealight to illuminate the intricate moon craters, equipping you with a special light source that reflects the allure of the moon. The use of foggy high-brightness LEDs is recommended for a scattered radiating light, similar to the effulgence of the natural moon, enhancing the overall appeal of your 3D printed NASA moon lamp.

Navigating the process of 3D-printing your moon lamp model is simple, with detailed instructions and tips provided, such as printing without any supports. Furthermore, Mihovec Design encourages experimentation with customizations, including the use of a particular LED color for a unique glow.

Adorn your home with this captivating piece of art and entertainment, or win the admiration of your friends and family by gifting them this extraordinary 3D printed moon lamp. From the careful detailing of the moon surface to the soothing glow of the LEDs, this model exudes a charm that can transform any setting.

The versatility of this 3D model allows it to be used in various settings and events, enhancing its appeal to 3D printer enthusiasts, space lovers, and DIY hobbyists. Tap into the creative blueprint of the NASA moon lamp designed by Mihovec Design on Thangs.com, the trusted platform for 3D models. 

For personalized design requests or commercial use permissions, contact Mihovec Design directly (mihovecdesign@gmail.com). Happy printing!

Keywords: 3D model, NASA moon lamp, Mihovec Design, Thangs.com, 3D printing, Arts & Entertainment, DIY project, Tealights.

NASA MOON LAMP WITH TEALIGHTS

Moon, 3.6cm diameter hole, Mihovec Design.stl

https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/detail/as08-17-2670

Dark side of the moon - Apollo 8

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3886181.

This is my take on Unicron in planet form. Made to be hung from string or fishing line.
I would print scaled up 150% or larger, Bigger the more detail you get!!
 It split in half so it can be printed flat on build plate.
set wall thickness to 1.2 if using .4 nozzle . and support to 70% over hang. 
If you like this model check out my others and maybe give a follow.
 I would love to see some pictures if you print it on a larger print bed mine is only 220mm x220mm
.Come on CR-10 and JG Aurora ownersmax it out 320x320mm!!

Transformers UNICRON

For the pure joy of complex topology. Could also be used as decorations, sound diffusion panels, or just to show off your new gradient filament! 

There is a “Hex Tile” set and a “Square Tile” set. Each set includes six unique patterns derived from mathematic triply periodic minimal surfaces. If you place identical tiles side-by-side, the pattern will be consistent across all tiles.

See here for videos: 

Hex Tiles: https://youtu.be/P0FsVcHb5zI 
Square Tiles: https://youtu.be/mxjWssml6T4 

Download both sets:

Hex Tiles: https://than.gs/m/955066 
Square Tiles: https://than.gs/m/955067 

Models shown are printed with SliceWorx PLA Matte Gradient.

AI generated description:

Feast your eyes on the "Topology Hex Tiles" 3D model by DaveMakesStuff. Perfect amalgamation of math and art, this model is aimed for the lovers of intricate topology. Explore myriad potentials of decorative use such as wall adornments or sound diffusion panels. Or simply flaunt the stunning results of your gradient filament with these complex designs!

Our package includes six unique hexagonal tiles, each one inspired from the mathematical concept of triply periodic minimal surfaces. Unveil the sheer wonder of symmetrical consistency with an arrangement of identical tiles. Captivate your audience with an immersive pattern that never breaks.

For a practical demonstration of this model's build, refer to the video included in the package. Drive your creativity even further by downloading both our Hex and Square tiles sets. Models showcased in the images are printed using SliceWork PLA Matte Gradient. Immerse into the joy of complex topology with our 3D print model on Thangs.com! Our detailed images will provide you with thorough visual references. 

Fall in love with the mesmerizing world of 3D model crafting. Let the Topology Hex Tiles inspire your next artistic feat. Explore more on Thangs.com!

Topology Tiles – Hex

FK S Hex Tile 2.stl

This is a heart on the planet Mars to be made as a planet lamp. This was done with the Makers Tools on the Creality Cloud mobile app. Worked a treat to design, and as soon as I have time, it will be awesome to print out.
The print went well with no supports and just a brim on the base. I have tested with a torch for the image but have some LED bases ordered to light this up nicely and give it something to sit on.
Printed in Esun Fire Engine Red PLA+ until I ran out (stupid mistake on my part) and finished in Peak Green Esun PLA+ this has made for a weird looking lamp but I’m happy. Only thing I would suggest that I missed in slicing is the Z seam placement, I let it auto hide mine but it is all aligned ( albeit on the side) but it is still a bit annoying.
A cool print regardless and will be fun in my sons Galaxy themed room I hope someone else gets some joy from this. Original at https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/65350fd9f9b64ae4d5a05224
Print took just over 6 hours on the K1 with default settings, took around 154g of filament and was click and go.


Heart of Mars (Creality Cloud Tool).stl


This is a simple desk organiser or organizer for the Americans. It ties a few key designs together along with a spot for my pencil sharpener (The one used in the images was not the original thus the jank mod) a rubber (eraser for the Americans) and a Norris Math set which is a common instrument set here in Australia. This is cut into 2 pieces marked left and right as well as a whole if you have a large enough bed. 
Externally printed parts that make this up are:
Pen Holder originally uploaded @ https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/652e5a6206d6cf3ae6afd1b0
The Micro/SD/USB Rotating Organiser (Organizer) are from  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4874570 by Texas_In_FPV with a massive shout out for a favourite design of mine and one of the first things I printed that needed bearings.  These need 2x 608zz each to rotate. (Side note my wife and I constantly refer to these as the USB Darlek’s from Doctor Who.
  To glue the 2 halves together in my case as I’ve printed V1.0 I had a soldering iron to make some clearance, so I just did a plastic weld. Otherwise, I would use superglue or another preferred glue option. Printed easily in imported orientation and I’ve done mine in a part roll of PLA and a bit more of another roll in PLA. Printed on the Creality K1 Normal Profile at 3x3 at 10% infill.

Revisions:
V1.0 – Initial Sketch, design and prototype completed, printed as 2 halves, and found some clearances were insufficient.
V1.1 – Added 0.4mm onto 2 of the tight clearances with good results & remodelled the sharpener position around the sharpener I've used.


Desk Organiser (Organizer) 

Desk Organiser 1.1.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5347660.

This is a stand compatible with the AXM Space Shuttle orbiter with open payload. It is based on the actual stand for the Atlantis attraction at Kennedy Space Center, with the same degree inclination of 43.21 degree.
It's a simple design of only two pieces. Now you can display your AXM Shuttles. Enjoy!

Update as of May 8, 2022: Version 2
Both supports now are beveled and a third component has been added. The bottom section is glued to both vertical supports, making it easier to put the Shuttle model on top of the stand.

Final update as of May 17, 2022: Version 3
Now you can use magnets instead of glue. All three stand components have perforations for magnets. The magnets to be used need to be 2 mm in diameter and 1 mm in depth.

3D stand for AXM Space Shuttle

**Start making money by selling 3D printed models. Sign up to the PrintStart3D Thangs Membership to sell my models in your shop and more!**

For more content visit me on Instagram: www.instagram.com/PrintStart3D

Thank you so much for the support <3

Discover our 3D printed Skull with Brain model at thangs.com, an intriguing piece in our Arts & Entertainment collection. Designed by PrintStart3D, this unique 3D model allows you to bring a touch of artistic science into your space. It's not only aesthetically appealing, but also an easy print, not requiring any supports. 

This skull and brain model is separated into two halves, which can be printed laying flat for best results. Furthermore, we've thoughtfully designed pins that will assist in lining up the two halves accurately. 

I would recommend adding a brim to print the brain easier!!

Visit our homepage or delve into the PrintStart3D's portfolio to see more details of this 3D model. This complex yet accessible 3D print is sure to captivate your interest and spark conversations. Elevate your 3D printing adventure today by engaging with this fascinating intersection of art and biology. Experience the

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