For the pure joy of complex topology. Could also be used as decorations, sound diffusion panels, or just to show off your new gradient filament! 

There is a “Hex Tile” set and a “Square Tile” set. Each set includes six unique patterns derived from mathematic triply periodic minimal surfaces. If you place identical tiles side-by-side, the pattern will be consistent across all tiles.

See here for videos: 

Hex Tiles: https://youtu.be/P0FsVcHb5zI 
Square Tiles: https://youtu.be/mxjWssml6T4 

Download both sets:

Hex Tiles: https://than.gs/m/955066 
Square Tiles: https://than.gs/m/955067 

Models shown are printed with SliceWorx PLA Matte Gradient.

AI generated description:

Feast your eyes on the "Topology Hex Tiles" 3D model by DaveMakesStuff. Perfect amalgamation of math and art, this model is aimed for the lovers of intricate topology. Explore myriad potentials of decorative use such as wall adornments or sound diffusion panels. Or simply flaunt the stunning results of your gradient filament with these complex designs!

Our package includes six unique hexagonal tiles, each one inspired from the mathematical concept of triply periodic minimal surfaces. Unveil the sheer wonder of symmetrical consistency with an arrangement of identical tiles. Captivate your audience with an immersive pattern that never breaks.

For a practical demonstration of this model's build, refer to the video included in the package. Drive your creativity even further by downloading both our Hex and Square tiles sets. Models showcased in the images are printed using SliceWork PLA Matte Gradient. Immerse into the joy of complex topology with our 3D print model on Thangs.com! Our detailed images will provide you with thorough visual references. 

Fall in love with the mesmerizing world of 3D model crafting. Let the Topology Hex Tiles inspire your next artistic feat. Explore more on Thangs.com!

Topology Tiles – Hex

FK S Hex Tile 2.stl

**This is a full remix of the Fancy Hextraction Game Boards by Zack Freedman.**

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**_Would love to see some of your prints!  Thanks to those that have already uploaded photos!_ **

_Almost finished my Modular Game Board remix! follow me to see when it goes up!_

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This remix changes lots things, features that I wanted for my game board, these include: 
1. Full gutters.
2. Easy to print with no supports. 
3. Use less filament.
4. Prints quicker.
Compared to a full board with gutters it is all of the above, however with all the extras it may end up using more filament. But I'm not totally sure on this as I haven't bothered to do the math.

I wanted a board that was quick and easy to set up, and would pack up for travelling securely.  That holds everything needed all together. (except for the tiles)

It also adds a few new things:

**Full Gutters**
All gutters travel down a "pipe" on the outsides of the game board, and end up in the middle section in-between the two goals (see photos, the area with the crosses). This allows some tiles that pick up the ball from the play area gutters to still be used, without picking up the out of play gutter balls.  
The exception to this is the top middle gutter, which funnels back into the middle channel gutter. 
(Some of the photos will show an older version that funneled balls back into the 2 outermost channels)

**Custom Height**
The standard height of the game board is 5 from on ramp to goal. With this version its easy to print any height you wish. The side gutters are modular and reversible (same file for left and right sides). For each extra row of height just print 5 extra gutters, 1 single row 5 plate and 2 side gutters. 
I printed a 6 high as shown in the photos, and the instructions below are for a 6 high board. 

**Ball Holders**
The ball holders are a convenient way of storing the balls. When removing from the back of the board, don't fully unscrew the bolts. Do it just enough to release it from the board and the balls will stay in the holder. 
They also double as a ball dispenser for each player. Fully unscrew one end, and unscrew the other end almost fully, so to act as a foot, and the balls will all roll down as you take a ball. (see photos)

**Dice Holder**
Will fit a max size of 2x15mm dice, for single player mode. The bolt on one end serves to hold the dice in place securely, and also allows for smaller dice to be placed in it.  

**Coins and Holder**
These can be used to keep track of how many wins you have had for those that are extra competitive! 
Or they can be used in a new "game mode" where you place 3-5 coins in each goal. Whenever a ball goes in a goal collect as many coins as there are balls that made it into the goals this turn. This encourages multi ball plays as you get coins for all balls, from both goals, that go in that turn. 
Once a ball/s have entered the goal, coins have been collected, the game board is reset as usual, but with less coins in the goals.  Keep playing till a player has greater than half the coins, they are the winner! 

**Printable Spanner**
While not strictly needed as finger tight for all bolts is fine. I included them as kids found it hard to do/undo the bolts without it. 
They are also used as a spacer in the back legs when detached and bolted to the back for travel/storage, without them the legs do not hold as securely, so I would recommend printing 2 just for this reason. 


**Print Settings**
All files are in the correct scaling and orientation recommended to print them.
All parts are design to be printed easily without supports. 
I used 0.2 layer height, 2 perimeters and 15% gyroid infill. 
With the exception of the Bolts, Spanner and BackMounts that I did with 3 perimeters, and 40% infill.
The main goal area (Goals.stl) is quite large and on my printer, an Ender 5, it needed to be rotated 45 degrees to fit. 
I have included the goals cut in half for smaller printers, then just glue the 2 halves together. However I have not printed them to see if it works. 

**How many to print**
This remix includes all the files needed except for the Plates. Grab them from the original. Or I used the plates for small printers here:  https://than.gs/m/860793
If like me you wanted to print the 6 (or more) tile height version (6 tiles from On ramp to Goals) then you will also need the plate single row found here: https://than.gs/m/857242

**For the 6 tile high version**
BackMount.stl x 16 (If not printing dice holder or coin holder use less as appropriate) 
BallHolder.stl x 4 - Suggestion only, each holds 9 balls and a total of 4 will be able to fit on a 6 Height board. If not using the dice or coin holders 2 more spots could be used for extra ball holders. 
BoltFeet.stl x 2  - I find these work better for the feet. You can use all of this type or all of the hex type, or a mix of both.
BoltHex.stl  x 16 - If printing everything, if not use less as appropriate. 
Coin.stl  x 10 - Optional
CoinHolder.stl  x 1 - Optional
GoalsFixed.stl  x 1
Gutter.stl  x 22
GutterHalf.stl  x 3
GutterLegMount_L.stl  x 1
GutterLegMount_R.stl  x 1
GutterSides.stl  x8
GutterTopMiddle.stl  x 1
Leg.stl  x 2
LegExtention.stl  x 2
OnRamp.stl  x 2
Spanner x 2  (While not technically needed they are used as a spacer so when the legs are screwed into the back the bolts are able to tighten correctly.)


**Assembly**
For assembly I found it easiest to glue together in the following order. 

1. Depending on what configuration of plate you used, glue them together first.
2. Then glue all gutters and half gutters to the base plates.
3. Next glue all the side gutters on.
4. Then glue the left and right leg supports, on ramps then the top middle gutter.
5. Lastly the Goals.

If you printed the mounts for the legs and ball holders (BackMounts.stl) glue these in next. 
For these make sure that the bevel is facing outwards from the ball holders. (see photos) 

1. Glue the 4 on closest to the goals
2. Using the ball holder, screw one end into one of the BackMounts that were just glued. 
Screw an un-glued BackMount into the other end of the ball mount. 
3. Mark out with pencil or just scratch a small mark where to line up the BackMount to. Take the ball holder off and glue the BackMount to the board lining it up with the mark you just made. 
4. Glue them on carefully one by one, double checking first to make sure measurements are correct.
5. The next row of 4 should be 1cm above the last row, making sure the tabs are facing correctly. (see photo)
Again checking carefully mark out where the last row should go by spacing it out as done for the second row. 

That's it! ~ you are ready to play Hextraction!

Thanks for checking out my remix! If there are any issues let me know. This is my first time ever uploading a 3D printing file! I hope you enjoy!




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** If you downloaded prior to 9th November 2023 please read below and re download. 
It has come to my attention that the Goals.stl  gutters are slightly too wide (by 0.45mm each side) This may cause issues with balls going down the outsides. 
Fixed version is now uploaded GoalsFixed.stl Please redownload if you have the old version. 

If you have already printed, but not glued the goals, and don't what to re-print the full goal piece again. I have added GutterSideLeftFix.stl and GutterSideRightFix.stl. These are both adjusted so that they will line up with the old Goal.stl. Only print 1 of each and place them just before the goal. The end with the L or R should go closest to the Goal piece as that's the end I adjusted.  Ignore this if you haven't printed anything yet. Only print these if you printed the old Goals.stl and do not want to re print the fixed GoalsFixed.stl version.

Sorry about that!! Worked fine for me so didn't really question it. Hopefully its a small enough amount that most who have already printed and glued should work. Perhaps a bit of force inwards on the outer two sides as you glue may be enough? However I'd just print the fixed version to be sure.
Sorry again!**

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Super Fancy Remix of the Hextraction Game Board

5-15 Plate.stl

ALLDONTPRINT.stl

Coin.stl

BallHolder.stl

BackMounts.stl

GutterHalf.stl

Gutter.stl

GutterSides.stl

GutterTopMiddle.stl

GutterLegMount_L.stl

GutterLegMount_R.stl

DiceHolder.stl

CoinHolder.stl

BoltHex.stl

BoltFeet.stl

LegExtention.stl

Spanner.stl

OnRamp.stl

LegFixed.stl

GoalsFixed.stl

GutterSidesLeftFix.stl

GutterSidesRightFix.stl

BoltFeetLong.stl

Goal_Left_SmallPrinters.stl

Goal_Right_SmallPrinters.stl

These ten minimal surface ornaments and spheres can be used for decoration or just as a way of appreciating the beauty of mathematical minimal surfaces.

See here from video of printed ornaments and cross-sectional views in Cura slicing: https://youtu.be/xwHfo-ngRqM 

A minimal surface can be thought of as a surface that is stretched as tightly as possible within the edges that hold it in place. The shape of a soap bubble that forms within a wire frame is an example of a minimal surface. These ornaments and spheres are derived from a special kind of minimal surface known as a “triply periodic minimal surface (TPMS),” a minimal surface that can be tiled infinitely in all three directions.

Files for each selected TPMS are provided as a “Sphere,” “Ornament,” and in some cases, as “Ornament Support.” Files are named for the type of TPMS and the mathematician credited with their discovery.

“Sphere” files are 60mm diameter spheres of each TPMS.

“Ornament” files are also 60mm diameter spheres but include pilot holes for at top for small ½ inch eye hooks. In some cases, additional geometry has been added to strengthen the area around the hook. The exception to this is the “Schoen F-RD(r)” and “Schwarz CLP” in which the geometry of the TPMS sphere already provides a means of hanging the ornament and the addition of a hook is not necessary.

“Ornament Support” files have built in supports for the upper portions of some of the more complex shapes. This allows you to reduce the amount of support you need to set up, but you will still need to set up supports for the base of the ornament.
You will need to set up additional support for each file, and expect to do some post-print cleanup.

See here for more information about these and other TPMS: http://facstaff.susqu.edu/brakke/evolver/examples/periodic/periodic.html

This model is submitted to the November 2021 "DIY: Don't Buy 3D Modeling Challenge" in the "Holiday DIY" category.

#custom, #thangs3d #pdo #minimalsurface #topology #math #mathart #christmas #christmasdecoration #ornament 


Ten Minimal Surface Ornaments and Spheres

This file is for display purposes only! Do not print! 

Ten Minimal Surface Spheres.stl

These interlocking tiles are derived from the recently discovered “Einstein Aperiodic Monotile.” An aperiodic tile covers two-dimensional space in such a way as to create infinite patterns that never repeat. Until recently, the existence of an aperiodic monotile was purely theoretical. But here it is!

Tiles are provided with or without an embossed Einstein face. Use the plain files to make your own remixes!

See here for video: https://youtu.be/LX8urkEtsWk 

This tile set is an artistic interpretation of the real Einstein Monotile. There are a few caveats for the math purists in the room.

Firstly, the real Einstein Monotile tiling system (“The Hat”) is composed of mirrored versions of the same shape. In this design, the process of making the pieces interlocking results in the two versions looking quite different. Even though they look different, they are derived from the same reference geometry and so follow the same rules for tiling.

Secondly, the “Einstein the Monotile” has nothing to do with “Einstein the Physicist.” The word “einstein” is German for “one stone,” referring to the challenge of finding a single tile that would tile space aperiodically. In this design, the geometry needed to make the pieces interlocking just looked like Einstein’s messy hair, so I embraced the wordplay and went for it.

This shape was discovered in March 2023 by mathematicians David Smith, Joseph Samuel Myers, Craig S. Kaplan, and Chaim Goodman-Strauss. They refer to the shape as “The Hat.” You can learn more here: https://cs.uwaterloo.ca/~csk/hat/ 

The “face” is a remix from “Albert Einstein Support Free” by Thangs user “kk11243234567891”. 




Interlocking Einstein Monotile

Interlocking Einstein Monotile  1 with face.stl

Triply Periodic Minimal Surfaces (TPMS) are mathematically intriguing and aesthetically beautiful. Unfortunately, they are also difficult to make. This collection contains three different formats each of twelve triply periodic minimal surfaces that you can use to remix into your own math art designs.

See here for video: https://youtu.be/tMqM8IVBq7Q 

Unit Cell (thickened): These unit cells have been thickened to approximately 2.4mm. They print well on a resin printer, and most can be printed on an FDM printer as well. 

Unit Cell (surface): These unit cells are surfaces only and cannot be printed directly. They must be imported into an stl editing software such as Meshmixer to thicken, pattern, or modify as you like.

100mm x 100mm x 100mm cube: These cubes contain a matrix of tiled unit cells. They are surfaces only and cannot be printed directly. They can be sliced into different shapes and then thickened into printable models.

The following surfaces are included:

Schwarz’ P, Schwarz’ D, Schoen’s Gyroid, Schoen's Batwing, Fischer-Koch S, Schwarz’ CLP, Schoen’s I-WP, Schoen’s F-RD, Schoen’s F-RD(r), Fischer-Koch C(Y), SplitP and Neovius.

The SplitP and Neovius were formed using nTopology. The remaining surface were desinged in CAD using this resource: http://facstaff.susqu.edu/brakke/evolver/examples/periodic/periodic.html


TPMS Party Pack

TMPS Party Pack Display.stl

Experience the realm of art and 3D modeling with our spectacular Tesselated Vase 3D model on Thangs.com. Designed by Mels3D, this masterpiece beautifully captures the definition of tessellation in a practical and aesthetic object. The engaging, intricate design showcases a unique combination of math and art, resulting in an enthralling visual piece that radiates elegance and creativity. Its multifaceted and complex structure adds depth to the design, making it the perfect conversation starter in any arts and entertainment space. For authentic and distinctive 3D models, discover the Tesselated Vase on Thangs.com. This 3D model is also a perfect reference for those learning design appreciation and a must-have addition for collectors and enthusiasts. Explore the world of digital art, view stunning images, and download unique 3D models on Thangs.com. Dive into the immersive world of Mels3D and impress with this Tesselated Vase. Credit to the original description goes to the designer, Mels

Tesselated vase

#DIY #BACK_TO_SCHOOL
Going back to school?? do your math in style with this 3D printed abacus. This is the only 3D printable Abacus file with RESET button on internet. I had never used abacus in my school but saw my few classmates use one. So I did a lot of research and took suggestions from my friends to learn how to use it before designing it. It took me more then a week to design it LOL. I have added RESET button which makes it different from other abacus 3D file available on internet. Reset button clears the calculation in fraction of second and saves time while performing fast calculations.
     Abacus is an ancient calculating device with many versions originated and used worldwide. This is a Japanese version Abacus with 1-4 bead system and 13 digits (13 columns) which is commonly used in schools worldwide. Abacus is an acronym which stands for Abundant Beads Addition Calculation Utility System.
     This file is easy to 3D print each part separately and assemble later. Required a metal spring with diameter 4 mm<D<10 mm and with height around 6 mm. Spring can be obtained from push button ball pen .
NOTE : Super glue only non moving parts only after assembled.

#DIY #BACK_TO_SCHOOL #ABACUS #MATH

ABACUS 13 DIGITS WITH RESET BUTTON (1-4 JAPANESE VERSION)

Going back to school?? do your math in style with this 3D printed abacus. This is the only 3D printable Abacus file with RESET button on internet. I had never used abacus in my school but saw my few classmates use one. So I did a lot research and took suggestions from my friend to learn how to use it before designing it. It took me more then a week to design it LOL. I have added RESET button which makes it different from other abacus 3D file available on internet. Reset button clears the calculation in seconds and saves time while performing fast calculations.
     Abacus is an ancient calculating device with many versions originated and used worldwide. This is a Japanese version Abacus with 1-4 bead system which is commonly used in school and worldwide. Abacus is an acronym which stands for Abundant Beads Addition Calculation Utility System.
     This file is easy to 3D print each part separately and assembly. Required a metal spring with diameter 4 mm<D<10 mm and with height around 6 mm.
NOTE : Super glue only non moving parts only after assembled.

#DIY #BACK_TO_SCHOOL #ABACUS #MATH

ABACUS WITH RESET BUTTON (1-4 JAPANESE VERSION)

ROD FRAME-1

BEAD-1

ANSWER BAR-1

EXTERNAL FRAME_1-1

RESET BAR-1

LINK 1-1

BUTTON-1

LINK 2-1

SPRING-1

BACK COVER-1

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4034834.

Not much of a puzzle, really. Just turn the knob.

Print in place, fully assembled, no supports. Just be sure to have your tolerances dialled in and your slicer preserves the one-layer gap in the outer ring gears. After printing, remove core and separate ring gears with something sharp like a spatula or razor blade.

Update: Increased tolerances from initial version. Should print fully assembled but I'd still recommend printing core and shell separately for smoothest finish which is important for sliding.

Updated math, verified by reality...

Gear ratios relative to top (fixed) gear: (formulas included in scad)
P1 P2 R1 R2 S1=2P1 S2=2P2 Gear Ratio
8 5 34 20 16 10 1:50
8 6 34 23 16 12 1:28.75 (4:115=5x23)
8 7 34 26 16 14 1:21.6667 (3:65=5x13)

We can forget the fractional turns, since it must at least be a multiple of 50 (a whole number) giving us a lowest common multiple of 50x13x23 = 14950

So that 14950 turns of input knob gives:
14950/50 (299 turns of first layer)
14950x4/115 (520 turns of second layer)
14950x3/65 (690 turns of third layer)

By my reckoning, 14950 turns are required for a complete cycle, this is demonstrated in the [accompanying video](https://youtu.be/eBaYPAqvHD4). That's lower than it could be since all layers share a common factor of 5 in this case (probably due to having 5 planets).

Planetary Gear Puzzle Box

Slip on TPU covers for the foot pads on my [FlexiSpot E7 desk](https://bit.ly/FlexiSp). 61.25mm inner diameter, so you can do the math to scale this for different uses as well :)

Flexispot E7 Desk TPU Foot Covers

#DIY
This is part 2 of mathtoolz that I designed. These math tools are rule-shaped measuring 1.5" x 6". My ultimate goal was to create 3 of these rulers with different tools on them which cost literally cents to print. This tool has a protractor on it, along with important trigonometry equations to reference. I recommend printing this part at .1 mm layer height, as it needs as much detail as possible (I used .15 mm, which makes the lines on the protractor a little less visible). I also used PLA. Enjoy!

MATHTOOLZ (Part 2)

Hey there! I've got a cool new 3D printable wrap around ring that I think you're gonna love. It's got a fashionable design that wraps around your finger, making a bold and eye-catching statement. It's comfortable to wear, so you can rock it every day. The included file is a size  6 1/4 Numerical  (US), M alphabetical (UK), and 12 in European it can be scaled in your slicer to change size. That 16.7mm inner diameter is for anyone who needs to do the math on scaling.

Print Settings:
.08 - .1mm layer height or lower 
supports enabled
Enable Raft

Wrap Around Ring

Hey there! I've got a cool new 3D printable wrap around ring that I think you're gonna love. It's got a fashionable design that wraps around your finger, making a bold and eye-catching statement. It's comfortable to wear, so you can rock it every day. The included file is a size  6 1/4 Numerical  (US), M alphabetical (UK), and 12 in European it can be scaled in your slicer to change size. That 16.7mm inner diameter for anyone who needs to do the math on scaling.

Print Settings:
.1mm layer height or lower 
supports enabled
Enable Raft

A drawing aid featuring two sizes of triangles. Good when doing math and you want clean drawn geometry.

Triangle drawing aid - Geometry

Triangle.3mf

This prints as a 'negative' filament painting which means if you hold it up to a light, it serves as a lithophane as well. See the photos for both the effects with and without a back light! 

This was printed with a 0.2 nozzle at 0.04mm layer height. A 0.4 nozzle can work, if you've calibrated your filament settings. If you want to increase the layer height, you can do so in Hueforge, or if you're brave, doing the math and doubling the layer swap numbers. 

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.16mm

**Filaments Used:**
	PLA Sunlu Beige Transmission Distance: 8.2
	PLA META Sunlu White Transmission Distance: 9.6
	PLA+ Sunlu Grey Transmission Distance: 1.3
	PLA Siddament Black Transmission Distance: 0.2

**Swap Instructions:**
	Start with Beige
	At layer #18 (0.84mm) swap to White
	At layer #28 (1.24mm) swap to Grey
	At layer #38 (1.64mm) swap to Black for the rest.


Your filament settings and mine may differ in TD, so best to adjust yours according to your known TD filaments.

Grim Reaper - Dual Lithophane Hueforge Print

Sierpinski Support used for #3DPNSpeakerCover competition.
Sierspinksy: Beauty of math and art.

Manufacturing method: FFF / FDM

Vitamins: 
Cloth / Mesh / Material (essential / optional)
Fastening Screws 

Tools:
Knife and scissors for trimming cloth.
Screwdriver for mounting 

Printing Suggestions:
Printing face down.
Insert cloth at about 0.6 to 1.6mm.
(If cloth has a front then it must be facing down as well.) (Mount cloth to bed with painters tape or file/buldog clips)
Print with a filament swap. First same blue that is used in speakers or High Five Blue, then swap with the insertion of material to the same black as used on speakers. 

Post processing:
Trim cloth material.
Punch away hole bridges. (Or use as holders for mounting screws while assembling)
Mount covers.
Grab you beverage of choice and enjoy the new look of your speakers, with the satisfaction that you built it. 

Design goals:
Incorporate 3d printing quirks as design features. Why waste plastic on supports if it can be used as a design feature?
Even before Sophy Wong was introduced, I thought of inserting cloth ala Shorey Designs style.
Used tutorial dimensions as design constraints.
Tried to keep design stylish and compact enough to be used in a studio or entertainment room.
Also designed for easy printability. Uprights at least 1.2mm thick, overhangs at 60° and bridges not more than 10mm. Added bridges for mounting holes as well.
Minimize post processing. Single print. Minimize post assembly.

Printing with cloth / fabric / mesh:
Choosing a good material to 3d print on
https://youtu.be/4VRnlIG8To0
Demystifying 3D Printing On Fabric
https://youtu.be/nLHMsdrp1k0

Sierpinski Support used for #3DPNSpeakerCover competition.
Sierspinksy: Beauty of math and art.

Manufacturing method: FFF / FDM

Vitamins: 
Cloth / Mesh / Material (essential / optional)
Fastening Screws 

Tools:
Knife and scissors for trimming cloth.
Screwdriver for mounting 

Printing Suggestions:
Printing face down.
Insert cloth at about 0.6 to 1.6mm.
(If cloth has a front then it must be facing down as well.) (Mount cloth to bed with painters tape or file/buldog clips)
Print with a filament swap. First same blue that is used in speakers or High Five Blue, then swap with the insertion of material to the same black as used on speakers. 

Post processing:
Trim cloth material.
Punch away hole bridges. (Or use as holders for mounting screws while assembling)
Mount covers.
Grab you beverage of choice and enjoy the new look of your speakers, with the satisfaction that you built it. 

Design goals:
Incorporate 3d printing quirks as design features. Why waste plastic on supports if it can be used as a design feature?
Even before Sophy Wong was introduced, I thought of inserting cloth ala Shorey Designs style.
Used tutorial dimensions as design constraints.
Tried to keep design stylish and compact enough to be used in a studio or entertainment room.
Also designed for easy printability. Uprights at least 1.2mm thick, overhangs at 60° and bridges not more than 10mm. Added bridges for mounting holes as well.
Minimize post processing. Single print. Minimize post assembly.

Printing with cloth / fabric / mesh:
Choosing a good material to 3d print on
https://youtu.be/4VRnlIG8To0
Demystifying 3D Printing On Fabric
https://youtu.be/nLHMsdrp1k0

#3DPNSpeakerCover Sierpinski V2.stl

Robot_Tower_Building

#DIY
This is part 1 of the math tools that I designed.  In this project, my ultimate goal was to design something that costs cheaper than to buy it. As a plus, you don't have to go far to make it. This part is a flat compass. That's right! You don't need a compass. The way this works is that you need to pencils. One pencil starts at the center, and the other at wherever you want to specify your radius. To actually specify your radius, there is an inch wide and a centimeter side. To me, this tool will be even less frustrating than a compass since you don't have to constantly worry about your compass moving and therefore you messed up your circle. I printed this one with .2 mm which worked perfectly, however, I don't know whether other printers will print it the same way as mine did at .2 mm. Therefore, I think it would be best for others to print it at .15 mm, just to be on the safe side :)

Also - I added images of it so you could see how it works!

MATHTOOLZ (part 1)

#DIY
This is part 1 of the math tools that I designed.  In this project, my ultimate goal was to design something that costs cheaper than to buy it. As a plus, you don't have to go far to make it. This part is a flat compass. That's right! You don't need a compass. The way this works is that you need to pencils. One pencil starts at the center, and the other at wherever you want to specify your radius. To actually specify your radius, there is an inch wide and a centimeter side. To me, this tool will be even less frustrating than a compass since you don't have to constantly worry about your compass moving and therefore you messed up your circle. I printed this one with .2 mm which worked perfectly, however, I don't know whether other printers will print it the same way as mine did at .2 mm. Therefore, I think it would be best for others to print it at .15 mm, just to be on the safe side :)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4864525.

Easily customizable LED sign.

Modified Makkuro's customizable text box to have thinner top layer on the lid so LEDs inside can glow through better.

I added descriptions to the settings, along with recommendations.  I tested this on a 300mm x 300mm build plate, and in some cases still rotated the design 45 degrees in order to fit.

You only need the SCAD file on your computer. The included STLs are only for example, and not needed.  Tweak the settings, print, add LED tape lights, and hang on wall.

I did not enable the customizer, cause in my experience it hasn't worked in a long time.
Download OpenSCAD and read a quick tutorial on its use.  You want to turn on the parameter view to customize the sign (you should not have to modify the source code to do so).  Change settings, preview, render, export to STL.  If you turn up the quality, I highly recommend you first turn of the auto preview.  The Minkowski function used is very slow and CPU intensive.

After editing your text string, adjust/play with the font size to utilize you available print space. Next you want to increase the bubble radius until the letters flow together and the "hills" on the underside of the letters are decreased enough to give you room to pass the LEDs along the inner perimeter (beware this may increase the print dimensions).  Adjust the top layer thickness (in my experience 0.4mm allows you to see hot spot from the LEDs, while 0.6 and 0.8 allow for a nice even glow.  Any higher and your slicer will create an infill which will wreck the effect. Set the top layer adjustment, in accordance with your bubble radius (I haven't yet figured out the math that is necessitating this adjustment). Adjust the scale of the base as desired. I found 1x unnecessary, but 0.5x worked well and left plenty of room for the LEDs inside.
If needed, adjust the keyhole size and spacing.  I try to position the keyholes on a flatter portion.  
Adjust the quality if desired, but be prepared for slower previews and rendering.

In your slicer, turn off supports.  Print with the flat/text sides down. 15% infill is plenty. 
When printing the lid, set a filament change at the appropriate layer (In Cura I use the "Filament Change" plug-in) for the top layer thickness: 0.4mm=layer 3, 0.6mm=layer 4, and 0.8mm=layer 5.   I wound up turning on Z-hop to help prevent the nozzle dragging black filament across the white letter surface.  

In my tests I used a 0.6mm nozzle/line width.  White PLA for the start of the text layer on the lid, and black PLA+ for the remainder.  Wall was set to 2 in the parameters of the SCAD.  I some minor cases I had to use a 3D pen to fill in little holes where light was coming through where it shouldn't have.  The original version mentioned the possibility of adjusting the "wiggle" to 0.3 if you have trouble getting the lid to fit.  But you don't want the lid to loose, or it will fall off when hung on the wall.  

I used LED tape light on the inside perimeter of the base (low enough so the lid can fit into place).  The water proof (silicone covered) tape lights required hot glue to stay in place.  Putting them along the side walls offsets the light, so you don't see hot spots glowing through (which you may if you lay the lights down flay facing up).  I soldered additional pin connectors on, in order to connect with the existing LED tape lights already in my nieces' rooms.  I drilled/cut/sanded openings on the side of the base to pass the pin connector cable though.  (I'll be adding code to cut opening in the print, so they are less sharp, and won't cut the LED strip). I'm thinking of using black hot glue to cover any gaps in the cable opening (3D pen would be too permanent) to prevent light seepage.  

Note: The flatter Kenzie base was a test that is no longer an available option.  It was replaced by the "base scale" option.  


Customizable Light Up LED Text Sign

The .3mf files are just examples, the real party is in the .3fd files.  Crack open Fusion360 and use those to create your own parameterized miniatures trays.  

Use the FigFinity1xN.3fd file for a mini tray that is 1 GridUnit wide, and N units long. User parameters are documented in file, you'll likely only need to set the number of slots and the diameter of the base for you mini. Default is 1" for normal people, but 32mm is supported for those who need more grimdark.

The FigFinityNxN.3fd is used for rectangular trays, just specify SlotsLong and SlotsWide, and the file will do the math to cram as many sockets in as can fit. If you have bases larger than 38-ish-mm you'll need to use this. 

Please send feedback with any bugs found, just include the input parameters used for the 360 files. Happy to fix an post updates.

Shoutout grizzie17 for the Gridfinity Refined bin bases!

FigFinity - Gridfinity Miniatures Storage

FigFinity_1x5_1x6_25mm.stl

FigFinity_3x3_2x2_40mm.stl

Have you ever thought, “I wonder where I put my math book?" Or “where is a pencil!" With this school supplies container, you won't have to worry about any of these things! This container can hold folders, books, pencils, erasers, and just about everything else you need for school! In the very back it can fit about 3 folders, in the middle 3-5 schoolbooks, and in the front, there are three drawer for other school supplies. Next to the drawers there is a pencil sharpener, a circular pen(cil) holder, and a place to hold a 1’ ruler. When you attach the pencil sharpener, I suggest that you use ether very strong double sided stick tape or glue. I hope you like this build! 

Hight: 13
Width: 13
Length: 12 1/2

#DIY 


school supplies container 

school supplies container.stl

#3DPNSpeakerCover
this speaker cover is actually a mathematical rose. the floral pattern is actually a graphical representation of the equations r=4cos(2.5theta) and to r=3.4cos(2.5theta) they are overplayed to give the design some thickness. this rose could also be represented by r=tcos(2.5Theta) where 3.4=<t=<4. 

all those years of math pay off in their own way

EducationMath

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