MiniPC Frame Clips (Octoprint Server)

USB Carousel (Holds 22)

Dog Food Measuring Cup (3/4 cup)

Igloo Cooler Handle

Rebar Corner Mount

This syringe is a non-functional halloween prop. It has no moving parts. The plunger piece prints separately from the rest of it. In my case it just snapped in nicely to the top, but this will vary depending on your printer calibration. If it is too loose, a bit of krazy glue or two part epoxy should do the trick. If it's too tight, you might need to do a bit of sanding. 
For the "needle" at the end I held a finishing nail with a pair of pliers, heated up the end of it with a lighter, and pushed it in to place.



Syringe (Halloween Prop)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4717789.

I've printed a few different phone stands off Thingiverse, but none of them seemed quite right. A lot of them seemed to be designed for smaller (older) phones, or maybe phones that aren't in cases, with hooks that wrap around the front but won't fit the phones that I have. Some of them just didn't seem stable. In the end, I designed this.

Features:

1) Rough textured surface where the phone sits to prevent it sliding off as easily
2) Hole in the bottom of the shelf so you can plug in a charger while it's sitting in portrait view
3) High back for stability with larger devices
4) Angled appropriately and only a small lip on the front of the shelf to accomodate a wide range of device thicknesses
5) Larger shelf to help accomodate thicker devices, and raised a bit so that charging cords can fit underneath it
6) Cutout on back at top - Probably useless, but I figured on smaller devices it might increase your chances of being able to access things at the back of your phone like buttons, camera, fingerprint reader, etc. Most phones will sit above the top of the back anyhow.
7) Circular cutouts on bottom to add optional TPU feet to prevent it from sliding around
8) Looks sweet! (subjective)

*UPDATE Mar 27, 2021* I added a "higher shelf" version to add more clearance for the charging cable. If you want to run the cable through the back instead of just directly through the bottom of the shelf, this one works better for that.

If you liked this design, please post a make!

Phone Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4370728.

When I was looking for a nozzle rack, I did find standalone racks, and racks that attached to other printers, but none that attached to the Anycubic i3 Mega. Since I have very limited space around my printer, it is convenient for me to have things attached to it... so here's a nozzle rack.

The one that I printed is the one that goes on the left side, and has numbered labels to show which nozzle goes where. The numbers are basically the nozzles that I have, and a couple that I intend to get. If you have different nozzles, you can optionally print the version with no numbers and find your own way to label it.

For the version of this rack that goes on the right hand side, I'm pretty sure it should work fine, but I didn't actually print it. To make it I mirrored the clip (which should be enough) and for the rack I mirrored the threads and the numbers (on the numbered version) and then mirrored the whole part bringing the threads and numbers back to the correct direction. I think that should do it.

I have designed this so that the clip stays on the printer all the time, but the rack can be slid out from the clip and removed. I thought that would be convenient.

The nozzles themselves actually thread in to the rack - I did this because I didn't want the chance of dropping the rack when I detached it from the clip, and dropping nozzles all over the place. The threads are M6 which works with the stock nozzles that fit this printer and most nozzles that I have seen.

Final thoughts: Probably a good idea to make sure your nozzles are fully cooled before trying to thread them in to the rack.

UPDATE Apr 2021:  I've added a version (numbered and not numbered) that attaches to the vents on the left side of the printer. If you need additional information (printing instructions, etc) check it out on PrusaPrinters. https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/64020-anycubic-i3-mega-s-nozzle-rack-vent-mount

Check out my other Anycubic i3 Mega accessories!
https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-anycubic-i3-mega-designs

If you like this design, consider a tip or post a make!

Anycubic i3 Mega Nozzle Rack (M6)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4976459.

NOTE: The "Download All Files" button is not including the low profile version (no reader) because of a Thingiverse bug. Use the individual download buttons for these ones if you need them.

This is a case that will hold ten microSD cards and a small USB card reader (or I guess technically eleven cards if you keep one in the reader). I designed it around the SanDisk model that I have. I believe it is model number SDDR-121-A11M and can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SDDR-121-A11M-MobileMate-Memory-Reader/dp/B000WR3Z3A/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=SDDR-121-A11M&qid=1632812261&sr=8-3

SanDisk does seem to have a few different models that look dimensionally identical.

I did try some other microSD cases before making this one, but I found that many of them had problems I wanted to solve. Details:

1. I opted for more clearance than some other cases. With some of them the cards fit too tightly. This one the cards just drop in. They are held in place by the lid when it is closed. (Just be sure to open it with the logo facing up)
2. I added a spot for a card reader. I really wanted this and couldn't find a case with this feature.
3. Threads together. I made it with large threads and, again, enough clearance that it should print well for (I hope) most people and thread together smoothly (It certainly does for me).
4. Numbered slots so you can keep track of which card is which, and maybe even make an index if you're feeling really organized.
5. Some of the existing cases are fussy about the orientation of the microSD cards when you put them in their slot. The slots in this case are just rectangular. It should fit in any way.
6. Knurled surface to make it easier to grip (and harder to drop) when opening and closing it.

FINAL NOTE: I just added a version that is lower profile that does NOT hold a card reader (it holds another card in the middle instead). This is based on the original design, so it really should work, but I have not printed it yet. If you print it, I'd appreciate a make and/or comment so others know it works and can see what it looks like.

If you like and use this design, please post a make and/or consider a tip!

https://youtu.be/S8tWIMPBNpI

microSD Card and Reader Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4690964.

This is actually three different precision screwdrivers that all look the same, but they are all a little bit different. They all use 4mm bits. They are:

1. A fully print in place screwdriver where the bit simply friction-fits in to the screwdriver. (This is quite finicky, I recommend the models that use magnets)

2. A fully print in place screwdriver where you need to pause the print to insert a magnet.

3. A screwdriver that takes a magnet and needs to be assembled and glued.


The spinning cap on all three screwdrivers is a print in place feature. Make sure your printer is well calibrated. You may want to print a partial screwdriver and test that you can free it up if you are unsure. If it does stick together, you may need to calibrate your extruder or adjust flow rate or something. You could also try adjusting horizontal expansion in your slicer. Temperature is also important. You need decent layer adhesion so the end of the screwdriver doesn't rip apart while you're torquing something which a hotter temperature helps with, but a hotter temperature can also make the print-in-place cap stick together more. Twist the cap to loosen, don't try to rock it.

For screwdriver #1: Friction fits like this are impossible to design in a way that it will work for everyone. It may take some messing around on your end with horizontal expansion, scaling, flow, etc. If the bit fits overly tight but can still physically fit, I actually think it's a good idea to just use it as is. It will loosen up over time, and you don't want it to loosen too much. Use a bit of lube and remove the bit with pliers at first if you need to. Print with or without supports.

For screwdriver #2: Be very careful when inserting the magnet. It may not just drop right in. It may need to be pushed a little bit and it may dislodge from your print bed if you aren't careful. Obviously you want to make sure it sits flush enough that the nozzle won't hit it on the next pass. Print without supports or put a support blocker in the section where the magnet goes. The print should be paused right before it draws the first hexagon so that the magnet can be inserted. With my slicer and print settings, this is right before layer #411, but it may be different for you if you use a raft or a different layer height or something.

For screwdriver #3: Supports don't matter for the handle, but the grip should be printed with supports. If you get elephants foot with your set up, or if you have problems with adhesion, use a raft. Drop the magnet in to the square hole in the grip, and make sure it gets properly seated in the round hole at the bottom. Then put a thin layer of glue all over the square post on the handle, and firmly seat it in to the grip. Wipe off excess glue. This is the model that has had the most testing. I took apart and reassembled a few laptops with this and had no problems with it breaking or anything.

All models are oriented in the position that I had luck printing in. Results are not guaranteed if you decide to rotate something. I printed everything at a 0.2 layer height with 60% infill.

In the versions that take a magnet, find a 2mm thick neodymium disc magnet with 6mm diameter. They are available all over aliexpress and ebay. I originally tried 1mm thick magnets, but they were pretty weak so I ended up stacking two of them.

https://youtu.be/nG_poF2dfok


Multi-Bit Precision Screwdriver (4mm bits)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4933255.

These are the parts I used to install a Trigorilla board (from an Anycubic i3 Mega S) in to a Monoprice Maker Select V1 that originally comes with a Melzi board. It should also work on the V2, the Wanhao Duplicator i3, and the Cocoon Create, as I understand these are all the same printer. The motherboard bracket will likely even work with other printers that happen to use the Melzi board (but probably not the backplate or SDRamps bracket). This allowed me to run the latest version of Marlin and solve the thermal runaway issue inherent to the original firmware.

The bracket is split in to two parts because as one piece it was too long to fit on my build plate. The two halves get attached together by attaching them to the included spacers using M3 screws. It actually wouldn't hurt for you to make some more spacers to glue on to other parts of the bracket to decrease the ability for it to flex when pushing down on the board.

Finally, there is a custom backplate that will give you access to the USB port on the Trigorilla board. I had to rearrange the positioning of the fan and the plug/switch to make everything fit. Also, the area I've repositioned the fan to allows it to move air across the stepper drivers.

Please look at my included "Conversion Info" text file for additional tips with this conversion.

UPDATE Sep 18, 2021: I have now added support for an SDRamps card reader. For those who may have downloaded the earlier version without the card reader mount, you only need to print the SDRamps.stl and reprint the front half of the bracket. Wiring details for the SDRamps has been added to conversion.txt. All other files remain unchanged.

Melzi to Trigorilla

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151952.

This is a bracket for installing two 2.5" hard drives or solid state drives in to a single 3.5" hard drive bay. Optionally, it can be used to mount one 2.5" drive on top and a 50x50x10mm cooling fan below it.

If you want a simpler bracket that takes less time to print, or a bracket for only one drive, or if you have some other requirement that this bracket doesn't meet, check out my other hard drive brackets at the following link: https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-hard-drive-brackets

To attach the drives to this bracket, the top hard drive will screw in from the side, and the bottom hard drive or fan will screw in from the bottom.

The holes on the side of this bracket for attaching it to the case are sized to allow you to self tap a #6-32 UNC screw. (The standard ones that are used with 3.5" hard drives, not the M3 screw which has a finer thread and is generally used for optical drives and 2.5" drives - although if you find the hole too small for the 6-32, you could try an M3.)

If you liked this design, consider a tip or post a make!

Deluxe Hard Drive Bracket (for one or two drives)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4222826.

This is inspired by another equipment box for the Anycubic i3 Mega on Thingiverse, but I've created it from scratch with a few notable design differences.

1) The whole thing clips together and then clips to the printer with proper working tolerances, and no glue or special tools required (My main point of making this).
2) The width of the box is pretty much exactly a quarter of the available space on top of the printer, so if you run out of space you can print up to three more (in theory) and they should all fit without leaving any wasted space. (untested)
3) The front of the bottom of the box is flat rather than angled leaving a bit more room in that direction.
4) More Attractive (IMO). Optional AnyCubic logo. (I have included a model with logo, and one without)

Assembly Instructions:

* Print the box and two clips
* Insert bowtie shaped post on clip in to corresponding hole on box, then rotate until the push-clip lines up with the hole.
* Push the push-clip in to the hole. Push carefully from both sides close to the clip. It might take a bit of force.
* Repeat for the other side
* Put the back hook on each clip around the top frame at the back, then push down on the front of the box/top of clip. At the same time you will probably need to help the clip around the front of the top frame by squeezing the front of it near the bottom.

UPDATE May 19, 2020: I have completed a redesign of this box which I think looks a bit cleaner. To be sure it works without actually printing the whole thing, I sliced small sections out of it and printed pieces of it to make sure the clips fit, etc, but I haven't actually printed the entire thing because I really don't need another box. I normally don't upload things that I haven't printed and tested in full myself. I've left the old parts so that you can use them if you want, and I've marked the new ones as "new untested". If you decide to take a chance on the newer stuff, I would appreciate it if you let me know if it works well for you.

UPDATE Sep 20, 2020: Finally got the word that my redesign works as well as the old one, and since I think it looks better, I've removed the old design. The white box in the pictures is the new version (no logo version)

UPDATE April 18, 2021: I've added a new variation of this box which I've called "Sideways box" for lack of a better term. It doesn't overhang at the back of the printer at all which makes it less likely that wires/bowden tube will catch on it during taller prints. I've also slightly modified the clips so that they fit a bit better.

***WARNING*** :  With this design (and anything that clips on to the top of your printer) be careful if you are going to be printing very tall things. It is possible for the wires or bowden tube to collide with the bottom of the clips or catch on things.

Check out my other Anycubic i3 Mega accessories!
https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-anycubic-i3-mega-designs

If you liked this design, consider a tip or post a make!


AnyCubic i3 Mega Clip-On Box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4432940.

This is a drawer to go in the 5.25" bay in the front of a PC. There are little nubs on the back side of the drawer that fit in to a slot on the mounting bracket to prevent it from accidentally being pulled out too far or tipped when nothing is mounted above it. It works quite well.

I have included two different mounting brackets which I've called "Double" and "Single". One is a two piece bracket that takes less time and uses less plastic to print, and the other is a single piece bracket. I recommend the double bracket in most cases. I've only included the single piece bracket because I think it will work better in cases that use a screwless quick-connect system, or cases that only allow you to put in screws from one side. If you have a screwless system, you may need to drill out the screw holes a bit larger to accomodate the post or whatever replaces the screws in your setup.

I recommend using #6-32 UNC screws, which are the standard size screw normally used to affix hard drives. *NOT* the finer thread M3 that are usually used to affix optical drives. I opted for the coarser screws because I thought they'd work better and be harder to strip when using them in relatively thin plastic. You still need to be careful about this.

Note: You can add a bit of lube to the nubs on the back of the drawer and the slots they fit in if it doesn't slide as nicely as you'd like. WD-40 or Superlube both work great.

UPDATE June 08 2020 : I've uploaded updated brackets. I didn't have any trouble with the old two piece bracket, so there is no need to reprint it if you have already printed the old one. The new one piece bracket, on the other hand, is much better. Changes are as follows: Both bracket types - added text to make orientation of the bracket easier and made the rail that holds the drawer less flimsy. It had a bit too much flex in my opinion. One piece bracket only - redesigned the bottom to make it less likely to cause the drawer to bind and not close properly if the bracket gets warped a bit when tightening it down.

If you like this design, consider a tip, or post a make!


5.25 Inch PC Drawer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653347.

Note: Most of the preview images were not correctly generated. To see them all, feel free to check out this design on Cults3d at:

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/wall-plates-variety-fusion-360

The important stuff:

This fusion file is set up to allow you to generate multiple types of north american wall plates, as well as single or multiple gangs, and oversize or undersize plates.

To choose the type, suppress all sketches (the icon looks like a square and a pencil) except "PlateBody" and whichever type of plate you want from the history in the bottom left.

To change gangs (or other parameters) go to the "Modify" menu and "Change Parameters"

Note that one of the limitations of how I made this is that all the gangs will be the same plate type. Also, I doubt that multiple gangs will work as intended unless you leave the plate width on "standard (69.85mm)"

Please note that because of the wide variety of plates that can be generated from this file, I have not had a chance to test all the different variations. Please let me know if something doesn't fit and needs to be adjusted. In particular, the "Single Receptacle" plate was designed from dimensions found online. I did not have any way to even attempt to test that one.

I have also included a few STL files that I have pre-generated in case you don't have Fusion 360, but if you want anything custom, you'll need it.

Additional:

This was made as kind of an experiment. I wanted to see how I could create a single fusion file that could generate a lot of different wall plate variations. I'm not sure if there is a better way to do this. You will notice when you first open the Fusion 360 file that there are a lot of warnings. This is normal as it is trying to generate all the different plate types at once, and they end up conflicting with each other. I was originally going to suppress all the sketches except "PlateBody" and then instruct people to unsuppress the sketch of the one they want, but it seems that Fusion 360 messes up and starts displaying things incorrectly if the file is saved with a bunch of things suppressed, so I had to leave everything unsuppressed.


** If you liked and used this, please post a make! It will help other community members see what variations people have had success with. **

Wall Plates (variety) - Fusion 360

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4879053.

FOR BEST RESULTS SEE PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS

This is a simple light shade made to fit my chandelier. I have included the Fusion 360 file so that it can be customized easily. My chandelier didn't come with shades, and although I like a lot of light, other people in my house complained that it was too bright, so this was my solution.

The center spikes are made in a way that they need to flex a bit so that they hold on to the center piece to keep the shade centered and attached.

Additional editing info: This is parametric. To change the dimensions, go to the "Modify" menu in Fusion 360, and "Change Parameters". To change the actual curve of the light, right-click and edit the sketch called "sides" which can be found either in the browser on the left, or the history at the bottom left. You can drag the points around to change the shape, or even right-click the curve and "Insert spline fit point" if you want more points to drag.

WARNING: Please be careful with this. I take no responsibility if you catch your house on fire or something. I'm using very low heat LED bulbs, and you should do the same, or select a material that will tolerate higher temperatures.

Light Shade (Parametric F360)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4857222.

There are a number of different types of devices for automotive use (phone mounts, GPS, backup cams, etc) that connect to a stand using a socket that fits over a 17mm ball. This is a replacement stand for those devices. I made it to replace one that had a suction cup on it in order to mount to a window. This one simply has a flat bottom so it can be attached somewhere with double sided foam tape.

I have included two versions. There is a single piece design that can just be printed and used, because I know some people prefer that, but I also wanted to make a two piece design because I'm a big believer in optimizing strength by orienting layer lines properly, and the two piece design allows you to print the base and the "arm" in different orientations to make them both as strong as possible. You will need to find an appropriate screw to attach the two pieces together. I just found a screw in my "spare screw bucket", so I'm not sure exactly what it is, but I recommend something with coarse threads. Screw length should be no more than about 12mm long (and not too short), and minor diameter should be about 3mm.

Automotive Mount (17mm ball)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4286527.

UPDATE (Apr 18, 2020) : I redesigned the "U-Bar" piece to be maybe a bit less like the original cast iron piece that I remember, but more attractive and just as functional.

UPDATE (May 5, 2020) : Fixed a slight misalignment with the captured bar in the "U-Bar" piece. I'm sure nobody even noticed it.

When I was a wee lad, my grandfather had a cast iron version of this puzzle in his livingroom. It became kind of a rite of passage that us kids would have to each complete the puzzle on our own without any help. I have now recreated it for the masses.

I looked online, and apparently this puzzle is called "Heart Breaker" or "Iron Heart". I found several variations of it. The idea is simply to separate the heart from the other piece (although since they print as separate pieces, I guess the goal for you will be to put them together.. unless you can find someone who knows how to put it together for you before you start)

This should obviously not involve any breaking or flexing of the material.. remember, this was cast iron.

I printed this with 50% gyroid infill at a 0.2 layer height with supports. I actually scaled mine down to 66% so that I could print both pieces together on the print bed... just remember that the smaller you make it, the more flex it will have which isn't great.

Post processing: Probably nothing on the heart piece. On the other piece, remove all the supports, and sand out the rough spots. The top bar should be loose and able to move around, but captured within the rings on the "U" part of it.

If you don't find this puzzle challenging enough, maybe hand it to an 8 year old :)

If you liked this design, consider a tip or post a make!

Heart Breaker Puzzle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4880719.

I converted my Anycubic i3 Mega-S to dual extrusion, and I was originally working on a guide showing exactly how I did it (since the way I did it is different from what I've seen posted already) but.... an entire guide is a lot of work and I'm not sure I'll get around to it. Until then, I'm just going to post this stuff separately in case someone can make use of it.

I bought a cheap MK8 extruder designed for a CR-10 from Amazon, and I used these pieces to mount it to the left side of my Anycubic i3 Mega-S. I've included two files to attach the motor/extruder itself, as well as some clips and a wire track that allows you to run the wires down the side of the frame and still have it look decent. See the pictures.

These are the parts I used:

Twotrees Stepper Motor Nema 17 Motor High Torque 1.5A (17HS4401) 42N.cm (60oz.in) 1.8 Degree

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08C268H2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1


Anpro MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament for Creality 3D Ender 3,CR-7,CR-8, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5

Amazon link (This is for a set of two, but very cheap):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07SX19Y65/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note that the extruder pack I bought no longer seems to be available, but if you do a search you'll see there are many companies selling what looks like exactly the same one and they're all fairly inexpensive.

Anycubic i3 Mega - MK8 Extruder Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4558867.

This is a cap to go over the bolts on a toilet. I noticed one of mine was missing, and I wanted a cap that I could install without unbolting the toilet, and that would stay in place. I designed this to thread on to the top of the 1/4 inch closet bolt holding the toilet down. This may not work for you if your bolts have been cut down too close to the nut.

Although 1/4 inch is the most common bolt size from what I've read, there are other sizes. I have included the f3d file so that you can modify it if necessary. It's also fully parameterized, so you should be able to easily change other things such as height, width, etc.

I did find that when I installed it, I had to force the cap down while turning it, although I seemed to have to do that more on one side of the toilet than the other. I actually suspect this is mostly because the bolts were not cut very cleanly. The important thing is, both caps seemed pretty solid once I got them threaded down all the way. Thread them on so they're fully seated and snug, but don't overtighten. They aren't too hard to strip.

If this design is useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!


Toilet Bolt Cap (Parametric - Fusion 360)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754566.

This is a holster for the Leatherman Wave or Leatherman Wave+ multi tool. I made it as two separate pieces so that each piece can be printed in the correct orientation to optimize for strength. Many of the other existing models are too weak and break easily because of where the layer lines are, and/or they require a lot of support. If something unfortunately DOES break with this one, you also have the added advantage of only having to reprint the clip OR the holster, rather than the whole thing.

The two pieces should slide together, and a couple of clips keep them from coming apart.

https://youtu.be/yublatQEc1E

Leatherman Wave(+) Multi-Tool Holster

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4347597.

I wanted a custom strike plate for an outside door that I have that was marking up the door frame because of how it was installed. It had to be longer than standard with a custom spacer. I did find some strike plates already on Thingiverse, but was having trouble making the modifications to them that I wanted and coming up with a good result, so I decided to just make my own parametric version where I could easily tweak the dimensions.

I have included two STL files. One should be standard dimensions, the other was the one I made for my own unique circumstance, so it is probably useless to anyone else. It is mainly included as an example of some things you can do by changing parameters.

I have also included the F3D file. If you want to make your own customized plate, you will need to download Fusion 360 (Free for personal use) and adjust the parameters in the F3D file and then export your own STL.

UPDATE July 18, 2020: Well, I walked too close to the door frame and my strike plate caught on my pants and tore off. Worked well up until then. It is only plastic after all. I added an optional third screw (updated f3d file) to help secure it better if you increase the length like I did (See the "extra long" model). 

Short instructions if you are unfamiliar with Fusion 360:

* Open "Strike Plate.F3D" in Fusion 360
* Click "Modify" (Top button bar)
* Click "Change Parameters" (near the bottom of the menu)
* Adjust any of those numbers, click OK, and see the result.

When you're happy with your result, right-click the top line in the browser to the left (It will probably just say "(Unsaved)") and "Save as STL", then click OK.

If this design was useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!

Strike Plate (Parametric - Fusion 360)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151947.

This is a simple bracket for installing a 2.5" hard drive or SSD in to a 3.5" bay. It is a somewhat minimal design. Designed to be relatively cheap without being overly flimsy. With the price of my material, it costs about 50 cents CAD. (Currently roughly 40 cents US)

Note that this is shorter than a normal 3.5" hard drive. There are certain (somewhat rare) situations where you need the entire length, and all three standard holes. If you need a longer bracket, or if you have other requirements that this bracket doesn't meet, check out my other hard drive brackets at the following link: https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-hard-drive-brackets

The holes on the side of this bracket should allow you to self tap a #6-32 UNC screw. (The standard ones that are used with 3.5" hard drives, not the M3 screw which has a finer thread and is generally used for optical drives and 2.5" drives - although if you find the hole too small for the 6-32, you could try an M3.)


If you liked this design, consider a tip or post a make!

Simple Hard Drive Bracket (short)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4604365.

This is a spool holder specifically designed for the AnyCubic i3 Mega-S. (And possibly the Mega Pro/Mega X?? .. Looks like they may use the same factory spool holder)

What this isn't: This isn't designed to be the smoothest rolling spool holder in the world. It doesn't have wheels or bearings or anything like that. I'm still kind of on the fence as to whether or not that stuff is even necessary. I've never really had problems related to that using the stock spool holder.

What this is: I was loaned a spool of AMZ3D filament, and found that the inner diameter of the spool was too small to fit on the stock spool holder. If you unscrew the post that the filament normally sits on, leaving the "arm" attached, this spool holder should attach to the existing factory arm and allow you to use spools with an inner diameter as small as about 30mm.

Things do fit together fairly snugly, and it may even be possible to use this without any screws (I didn't need them), but for extra insurance (or if it is looser for you due to printer calibration) I have included a screw hole to make sure that the square "attachment" piece stays on the arm, and another screw hole to make sure that the post stays on. You should be able to self-tap the factory screws that are normally used to attach the factory post to the arm in to the screw holes on this design. One screw goes in the left side (closest to your build plate), and one screw goes in to the top of the post once it is properly seated. You will notice that there is also a hole on the right hand side of the square piece. That one doesn't need to be used, and I only put it there in case someone wants to run a bolt all the way through with a nut on the other side. I think it is best to self tap the screws before putting it all together so that once you do put it together, you can just focus on making sure things are lined up correctly. A longer screw than stock would probably be preferable for the screw that goes in to the post from the top, if you have one.

Note that the metal hole that the screw is going through from the left is not threaded and doesn't need to be. Do not over tighten either screw. They don't need to be overly tight, and they will be fairly easy to strip if you aren't careful.

Check out my other Anycubic i3 Mega accessories!
https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-anycubic-i3-mega-designs

Anycubic i3 Mega-S Spool Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4529100.

This is the clip to hold up the shift boot on a 9th Generation Honda Civic SI.

UPDATE July 8, 2020: By request I've added a version with two catches instead of four. The one with four is really quite difficult to remove once it is clipped on (Which I see as a good thing?), the one with two should be easier.

If this thing is useful to you, consider a tip and/or post a make!


Shift Boot Retainer for 9th Generation Honda Civic SI

9th Generation Honda Civic SI Shift Boot Retainer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4550751.

Here is yet another style of drive adapter to mount 2.5" hard drives or solid state drives in to 3.5" drive bays (I've already made three other designs).

The reason I made this one is because I saw people making the stackable covid visors, and thought it'd be cool to have hard drive brackets that could be stacked for "mass production" with minimal support material needed.

With this design, you can print one bracket of any style with no supports. If you choose to stack them and print multiples, only the cutout for the SATA ports on the one piece adapters will need to be supported. (I actually haven't tested stacking them, but I don't see why it wouldn't work)

This design also takes less material and time than my other designs. I've included long and short adapters (long ones are sometimes necessary because some PC cases are designed in a way that you need the two furthest screws) and I've included both one piece and two piece designs. Personally I hate the two piece brackets, but I included them because they DO take less material and time to print. I just prefer the one piece brackets because you can just grab one and use it without spending as much time figuring out the correct orientation, and you never have to worry about losing half your bracket.

Only the long 1 piece bracket is pictured. I will post pictures of the others later.

**ALL my hard drive brackets are designed to self-tap #6-32 UNC screws (the coarser screws that are used to affix 3.5" hard drives, not the finer thread M3)**

Here are approximate printing times and material for each type (0.3 layer height) :

Short (2 piece) : 10g, 3.20m, 30 minutes
Long (2 piece) : 14g, 4.54m, 41 minutes
Short (1 piece) : 16g, 5.35m, 47 minutes
Long (1 piece) : 19g, 6.22m, 54 minutes

Here are my other HDD/SSD bracket designs if you are interested:

https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-hard-drive-brackets

If this design is useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!



Stackable Hard Drive Brackets

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151949.

This is a simple bracket for installing a 2.5" hard drive or SSD in to a 3.5" bay. It is a longer design than some of them and has all three of the standard screw holes found in 3.5" hard drives which is necessary in certain cases. 

If you'd like a bracket that takes less time to print, is shorter, or if you have some other requirement that this bracket doesn't meet, check out my other hard drive brackets at the following link: https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-hard-drive-brackets

The holes on the side of this bracket should allow you to self tap a #6-32 UNC screw. (The standard ones that are used with 3.5" hard drives, not the M3 screw which has a finer thread and is generally used for optical drives and 2.5" drives - although if you find the hole too small for the 6-32, you could try an M3.)


If you liked this design, consider a tip or post a make!

Simple Hard Drive Bracket (Long)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4963876.

I have been experimenting with the Klipper firmware on my Anycubic i3 Mega S and controlling my printer using KlipperScreen (https://github.com/jordanruthe/KlipperScreen). I got sick of having the screen just hanging from some cables, but I'm not yet at a point where I want to make a permanent change to my printer because I'm not sure if I want to stay with Klipper.

As a result, I created this temporary screen mount which allows me to mount my Raspberry Pi 3b and the accompanying screen that sits on top of it to the front of my printer, directly in front of the currently non-functional factory display. It hangs from the mounts for the Y axis rods. It is made to be functional, not look fantastic. There are definitely much nicer looking ways to mount the screen if you're looking for a permanent installation.

Note that I did need to rotate the screen in the OS in order to make it so I could orient the raspberry pi with the power cable facing down. Otherwise it would likely be on a collision course with the bed. Note also that if your LCD is too big, this may not be a good mounting option. I am using the following 4 inch LCD touch screen that I ordered from aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33035369560.html

Installation will require four M2.5 screws to affix the raspberry pi to the backplate (I used screws from an old laptop - this is a very common size for this application) and four M3 screws to affix the hanger pieces to the backplate. I just forced them in and used the screws to self-tap the plastic. Do pay attention to the orientation of the backplate (the arrow goes up) and which hanger goes on which side (marked with an L and an R). The screw recesses that fit over the cap screws for the Y axis mounts can be a bit tight. This is intentional. If you have trouble getting them to fit, push harder!



Screen Hanger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4550689.

This is an end piece for a "Bestway" brand A-Frame pool ladder. It fits on the end of the metal tubes to provide some cushioning so that the steel ladder ends don't damage the pool. I have included a picture of the ladder and the pool that it goes with so that you can hopefully match it up. I'm not sure what other models it may be compatible with. Designed to be printed in TPU or some other flexible material. Fit perfectly for me - tight enough that they won't fall off, but not ridiculously tight.

If this design is useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!


Bestway A-Frame Pool Ladder End (TPU)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4947397.

This is my Small & Simple Filament Runout Sensor (microSD card pictured for scale)

My goal was to create a general purpose filament runout sensor that was small, effective, good quality, and built around the cheap and common limit switches that I already had onhand (ordered from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001033375208.html).

This filament sensor has the following "features"

1) Uses common parts (common limit switch, two M3 cap screws)
2) Screw holes pass all the way through, so you can use longer screws to affix it to something, or shorter screws (9mm overall length) for a "floating" sensor.
3) Small, fast print. Anyone should be able to print this in a half an hour or less. I made it almost as small as I was able to - I did have a smaller version, but it was only held closed on one side which seemed kind of lame.
4) Internals are shaped so that the filament has a lower chance of getting "caught" when pushing it through (tapered cone to guide the filament to the exit hole).
5) Handy arrow on both sides to show the direction the filament should be passing through the sensor.

I printed this on my Anycubic i3 Mega, but I plan to use it with a printer I'm building out of an old Monoprice Maker Select. It should work with most printers though, especially if you know how to configure and flash firmware:

To make this work, you may need to make changes to your firmware, depending on your printer. The switch logic will depend on which pins you wire to. If your printer is already designed to use a mechanical limit switch, be sure to wire it correctly to avoid having to invert the logic in your firmware.

Another option is to use this with Octoprint. In this case it can (optionally) be wired to the GPIO pins on your raspberry pi.

Assembly is pretty straight forward. Put the limit switch in place on top of the two posts (careful not to break them), put the other half on the other side, and screw it together. I just forced the M3 screws in to the screw holes and used them to self-tap the holes, and they hold very firmly. You can do the same, or tap it if you'd prefer. Use M3 screws with an overall length no more than 9mm for a floating limit switch, or longer ones if you want to screw it to a bracket or something - you'll have to make this part yourself.


SS Filament Runout Sensor

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628818.

This is a clip to hold on a window screen.

As seems to be my custom, I made this design, THEN searched Thingiverse to see if someone else had already done it, and did find several similar things. I'm posting this anyhow, because I do think it has an advantage over the others that I found.

Most clips (including my original one) are one piece, and the barrel that the screw goes through is of varying lengths. I've seen them anywhere from no barrel, to a small barrel, to a very long barrel (mine fits in the latter category).

I decided to make mine in two separate pieces because it shouldn't really affect how it functions, and it has a couple advantages. First of all, you should be able to adjust the length of the barrel to work for your application within your slicer by simply scaling it in the Z direction to whatever length you need without affecting the look of the handle. (Be sure to subtract 3mm from the total length needed as this is the thickness of the part of the handle that fits over top of the barrel)

The other advantage is simply the fact that because they are two separate pieces, you don't necessarily need to print them in the same orientation. Changing print orientation can be done to optimize strength or cosmetics.

Without scaling this will replace a window clip that has a barrel approximately 32.2mm long.

Window Screen Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128589.

This is a simple cone-shaped tassel for the pull cords on blinds. My dog ate the originals.

If this design is useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!


Simple Cone Shaped Tassel for blinds

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4228731.

This is a replacement handle for the adjustable dish racks in Samsung Dishwasher model DW80K7050US. I'm not sure if they use these same handles in any other models. There are several of these throughout my dishwasher, and oddly, when I tried this handle in a few different spots, it was sometimes a perfect fit, sometimes a bit loose, sometimes a bit tight. There seems to be a bit of variation even within a single dish washer, which may explain why the originals were falling off. You may need to scale it up or down slightly depending on your printer settings, and dishwasher. Where the originals fell off, I found there is usually a bit of the original glue left over, and sometimes this needs to be removed for a good fit, and sometimes it is better to leave it alone. If it fits too loosely, you can also maybe use a bit of epoxy or something.

Be sure to print this in something that can take a bit of heat. I printed mine in ABS. I'm sure this is not foodsafe, but I didn't think it mattered considering it is a small part that isn't coming in to direct contact with food. You can use your own judgement.

I printed it in the orientation shown in the STL (smallest side down). This does require good bed adhesion .. use a brim or a raft or something if necessary. I oriented it this way to keep supports to a minimum and to eliminate the possibility of elephants foot affecting the inner diameter of the barrel.

This is actually the second version of this design. The first one had to be scaled to work, this one worked as-is for me. I've made it look a lot more professional and more like the original part by filletting the edges.

If this design was useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!

Samsung Dishwasher Dish Rack Handle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4898774.

Seadoo Latch-Cover (Part #291000165)

This is a replacement latch for the front cover (storage compartment) on earlier model Seadoo personal water craft. It was designed to look very similar to the original, but because TPU tends to have the required flexibility without the same elasticity as rubber (or at least that's how mine is) I have modified the design a little bit with those parameters in mind.

The square part that attaches this to the cover does fit very tightly. I had to seat the bottom, and then push the top in by squishing it down and pushing it inwards with a flathead screwdriver.

It also fits over the hooks tighter than my originals, but mine were so aged they were almost broken, so I'm not sure how it compares to the new ones in good condition. I made them a little tighter than I think would be ideal, because I'm expecting they may stretch a bit once they've been used for awhile.

This part should be compatible with the following Seadoo models:

1989-1993 Sea-Doo SP
1991-1992 Sea-Doo XP
1993 Sea-Doo SPI
1993 Sea-Doo SPX
1993-1997 Sea-Doo Jet Boat Explorer
2002 Sea-Doo Jet Boat Explorer


Seadoo Latch-Cover (Part #291000165)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4534024.

This is a replacement guide tube for the Bionicon C.Guide V.02 (Bicycle chain guide). I made it for a family member. His wore his out, and he found that the only replacement part comes from the UK. With the price of international shipping, it just didn't seem worth it, so I designed this replacement part. You will need to print two of them, and they should snap together (Make sure the two halves are lined up perfectly).

I printed it in the orientation shown in the STL at a layer height of 0.2 with no supports.

I printed it in Creality Black PLA, and I sprayed a bit of PTFE lube in it for good measure. It was only tested for about 5 minutes, so I don't really have any information on long term durability, but if it doesn't last, I expect it will be more about selecting a more durable material than any kind of design flaw.

If this design is useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!

https://youtu.be/eercC1dG4r0

Replacement Guide Tube for Bionicon C.Guide V.02

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4247678.

I bought a Remington dog crate at a garage sale. Unfortunately, some of the clips that hold it together were missing, so I printed my own. Based on my measurements compared to the measurements posted on Walmart's website, I believe I have the "medium" sized crate. I am not sure if these clips are interchangeable between the different sizes, or if they work with other models.

I take no responsibility for any harm that may come to you or your pet through use or misuse of this part.

UPDATE May 2nd, 2020: I have modified this part to look more like the original, and added some fillets so it looks a bit nicer. I've included a photo that shows the original part (top) compared to version 1 (middle - green), and version 2 (bottom - black)

If this design was useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!

Remington Dog Crate Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4879047.

This was made to mount a post/pole to the side of something. I used it to mount my weather station (AcuRite 01536) to a fence. The diameter of the pole I used was 26mm. Because I knew it was going to take a ton of plastic and I didn't want to risk it not fitting and having to re-print it, I made the hole diameter 28mm. It doesn't matter if it's a bit loose, as the screw in the center keeps the pole from rotating or moving around too much. I made this because the mount that came with the weather station would not accomodate the pole I chose, even though it DID fit in the bottom of the weather station.

Post/Pole Mount for Weather Station

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4738107.

This is a pulley cover for the rear Y axis pulley on the Anycubic i3 Mega (I guess it's a gear attached to a stepper motor, not exactly a pulley, but that's what everyone is calling it so we'll go with that)

I decided I wanted some pulley covers, and I found one that someone else made for the front, but not too many for the rear. I didn't like the look of the ones I did find for the rear, and the one I tried sat higher than I liked, and also didn't stay flat well because it was only held down on one side. This is a bit lower profile, and attached with two screws to help keep it lying flat.

Check out my other Anycubic i3 Mega accessories!
https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-anycubic-i3-mega-designs

Pulley Cover for AnyCubic i3 Mega (rear only)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4970314.

This is a replacement latch for a Sterilite Gasket Box. The ones I own are 54qt (51L), but from looking at pictures of other Sterilite gasket boxes, I think this latch is used on multiple models. It fits pretty tightly (tighter than the original) but it does work. A bit of superlube on the posts helps a bit. With the originals the little posts on the latches kept breaking, so now I can print replacements.

Please leave a comment if you use this on a different size box and it works (or doesn't).


Sterilite Gasket Box Latch

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4280644.

This is a box for a Gardner Bender GSW-41 switch that will mount to the AnyCubic i3 Mega. It mounts by clipping in to the hole for the voltage switch to switch between 110/220 volts. I figured most people set that switch once, and never use it again anyhow, and there is enough room to run wires in the gap between the outer case and the power supply.

I use it to switch my custom LED lighting on and off. I wanted to be able to run custom wiring in to the case so I could power the LED strip off the internal power supply, and it was in a convenient spot. I also didn't want to have to drill any holes or make any non-reversible customizations to my printer.

This box originally had a bottom to it, but in the end I decided to leave it with an open bottom for several reasons. 1) it makes the supports easier to remove, 2) you can't see the bottom anyhow when it is installed, 3) less material, 4) access to switch wiring if needed, and 5) the option to run wires out the bottom if desired.

I actually ended up running the wires that go out to the LED strip through the bottom of the box. You can see the ugly yellow wires in my picture. If you choose to run the wires this way, it can be made to look nicer with a small chunk of black wire loom (which is what I plan to do). Because my LED strip is stuck to my Z axis with adhesive, I also plan on putting in a couple bullet connectors behind the front of the Z axis where you can't see them so that I can easily disconnect the wiring in the event I want to remove the Z axis.

Please note that this is technically an AC switch. I didn't find a DC rating on it, so it may not be appropriate for this use. I used it anyhow, but I make no guarantees about the safety or reliability. That's on you.

I purchased my switch at Canadian Tire. The item number is 052-6974-0, but the same switch seems to be available on Amazon and at several american retailers. I don't see why a totally different switch wouldn't work, as long as it is designed to fit the standard 0.55" (1.39 cm) x 1.125" (2.85 cm) cut-outs.

Printed at 0.2 Layer Height with supports

Check out my other Anycubic i3 Mega accessories!
https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-anycubic-i3-mega-designs

If you liked this design, consider a tip or post a make!

AnyCubic i3 Mega Switch Box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151992.

Print sideways (current rotation) with no supports.

These mounts are designed to mount cables, devices, etc to a wall using nylon cable ties. Screw the mount to the wall through the middle, pass the strap through the slots on both sides, and around whatever you are trying to mount. For larger items, use multiple mounts. I usually far prefer these over the ones that just stick on with double sided foam tape, as they stay put.

The commercial mounts of a similar design are generally nylon, and because these are likely to be printed in weaker materials, and because 3d printed parts are generally weaker to begin with, I tried to build these a little bit more rugged than the ones you'll find being sold.

Surprisingly strong, even printed in regular PLA. That said, when screwing them down, especially if using the tapered-head screws, torque them down with a reasonable amount of force. You can certainly crack them in half if you go crazy.

Also, keep your material limitations in mind. PLA might not be your best choice if you're putting them somewhere that gets very hot.

UPDATE May 1, 2020: I removed the squared off version, as I have redesigned the rounded off one and I believe it is now stronger and looks better.

If you liked this design, consider a tip or post a make!


Cable Tie Saddle Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4529401.

I bought this "Summer Infant" gate several years ago. I actually use it as a pet gate rather than an infant gate. Overall the product is good quality and well designed, with the exception of the plastic latch. It was designed so that you can "lock" it to prevent your child from being able to pull the gate up to swing it open, but it was made from thin and brittle plastic, and I ended up breaking it within days of installing it. I decided my dog will probably never be smart enough or strong enough to lift up the gate, so I don't really need it to be able to lock in place anyhow, but the broken latch looked bad and had a sharp edge where it had been broken. I decided to design and 3d print a replacement piece to solve those issues.

If you happen to have the same problem with the same product, you will need to drill out the metal posts that connect the old latch to the gate, and find yourself some suitable bolts and nuts to replace them with. The top of the latch is a bit wider than the bottom, so your bolts will need to be slightly different lengths. Personally I just found two that were close, and cut them to size.

If this thing is useful to you, consider a tip and/or post a make!


Summer Infant Metal Expansion 6 Foot Wide Walk-Thru Gate (27284Z) Latch

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4516196.

This is a blank for a keystone wall plate. Printed and tested.

Printing in the supplied orientation without rotating it ensures that the part that needs to flex isn't flexing on a layer line. Rotating it will weaken the clip.

If this thing is useful to you, consider a tip and/or post a make!

UPDATE July 3rd 2020: Modified it so that supports aren't needed and adjusted some measurements. Fits nicer now too.


Keystone Wall Plate Blank

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4885258.

This is a replacement switch for the pictured hand warmer from "ihatethecold.com". The original fell off and got lost. This one will need to be attached with a small amount of glue. Be careful to only use a small amount and only where you need it. I used a "gel" type super glue. You could also probably use a small amount of two part epoxy.


Switch for hand warmer (ihatethecold.com)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4255344.

Not sure if this will be useful to anyone. It's the little cone thing that is part of the extruder that comes with the Anycubic i3 Mega-S. I lost mine for awhile, and made this replacement. When I tried to pull it out after finding the original, it broke on a layer line and I had to pick the pieces out, so fair warning.

Check out my other Anycubic i3 Mega accessories!
https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-anycubic-i3-mega-designs

If this design is useful to you, consider a tip or post a make!


Anycubic i3 Mega-S Extruder Filament Guide (cone)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4593690.

* PLEASE NOTE: This is the clip only. You will need to download one of these low profile cases: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1595429

This is a clip I created to attach my Raspberry Pi Zero W to the right side of my Anycubic i3 Mega-S. It works in conjunction with the low profile versions of the print-in-place case from Thingiverse user "Superrei" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1595429

I found this case to be quite nice, other than the fact that there was nothing to hold it closed, so it would hinge open on its own. It is for this reason that I wrapped the clip right around the case. It keeps it attached to the printer, and it keeps it closed. It fits around the section below the USB ports and above the HDMI port.

Please note that the Raspberry Pi Zero/Raspberry Pi Zero W are "explicitly not recommended at all" by the creators of OctoPrint since "severe performance issues were observed caused by wifi interference when bandwidth is utilized (e.g. the webcam is streamed), negatively impacting printing quality"

That said, I am not streaming from a camera, and I haven't had any problems. It's definitely slow to boot, but I just leave it on all the time.

Check out my other Anycubic i3 Mega accessories!

https://www.thingiverse.com/dtylerb/collections/my-anycubic-i3-mega-designs

Raspberry Pi Zero W Clip On Case for Anycubic i3 Mega

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