Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2223207.

On request ...
The model I assembled for my printhead design.
Feel free to use it for your own designs.
  

Titan Aero & Volcano model

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2297493.

This is a V6 partcooler for this [setup](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2268567)

I don't have a V6 anymore and won't test this. Should be like the Volcano one in the design mentioned and should be ok.
If not or remarks : leave me a comment.

You will need the following parts from the Volcano design (are in common) :
Belt plug (print 2 times with a 0,4mm nozzle due to the details !!) used to lock the GT2 belt
Aero top : sits on top of the carriage
Aero front design : front panel
Aero bltouch support 
Aero back with blower support : back panel with integrated support for a 50x50x15mm blower
Aero blower outlet : connection piece between back and shroud. Holds the blower in place  too.

All parts can be printed with a 0,6mm nozzle (or smaller of course). I used layers of 0,32 mm and 0,4mm, 3 bottom and 3 top layers, 50% infill and 5 walls.
All except blower outlet and the backpanel (due to the integrated M3 nylocks cavities) can be printed without support.
Blower shroud should be printed with a 0,4mm nozzle. I could redesign it with thicker walls if there is demand. But that will take some time now.

I'm not linked with the shop, but all parts that are near the hot end or can become hot, I print  now in [3dk-top](http://3dk.berlin/en/26-3dktop-heat-resistent). It is heat resistent to over 200°C. Works really well.

**20170902 **
Upon request : Made a version that has a bit more space between the hotend and the right leg of the shroud. Look for the file "Aero V6 shroud wider on the right.stl"

I highly recommend to print this in ABS.

**20171007**
Upon a remark about mesh issues, I made a thicker version marked V2. I checked that one for mesh defects

Partcooler for FT5 Aero setup with E3D V6

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2268567.

A redesign for the [Aero on the FT5](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2214799).
All parts are designed to limit as much as possible the need for printing support. 
I tried also to get the maximum flat area on the bed.
The partcooler with the 40mm fan can be reused from that design.

**Changes**
New front with a larger support area to attach a BLTouch, IR or inductive and other sensors (will post a new mount for the BLTouch optimized for the 8.3mm Z-distance to the nozzle for both Volcano and V6)
3 new backs 
1- just a back without anything extra
2-Back with new support for partcooler with 40mm fan as in the first design
3-Back with support for a standard blower

**Blower**
Blower sits in a seat integrated in the backpart (Aero_back_with_blower_support_v2.stl).
The blower is attached with the blower outlet part (Aero_Blower_outlet_v1.stl) : 2 bolts (M3 30mm) are needed. The nuts slide in the pockets in the backpart. The outlet part sits also in a pocket in the backpart.
Stepper has to be mounted before the blower is assembled!
There are 2 shrouds available : one for the Volcano, one for the V6. They are connected with bolts and nuts to the blower outlet part.

**Partcooler with 40mm fan**
The partcooler is mounted with 2 bolts&nuts on the 'back with partcooler support'.
See [previous design](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2214799) for pictures and STL.

**Attention**
I don't use a V6 anymore. I will **not** test this configuration. See for a compatible cooler [here](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2297493)

**Printing**
Support will be needed  for the back :
       -blower support for the pockets holding the M3 nylocks
       -Beltlocks
The Blower Outlet part will need more support. This should be quite easy to remove from the internal channel as it is quite large, short and accessible.
Print the partcooler shrouds vertically then I do not expect you will need support.Only the shroud with the 40mm fan needs a bit of support.

All parts in the pictures are printed in ABS with a 0,6mm nozzle, 0,32mm layer, 5 perimeters (I want a bit of extra around the bolts if I need to clear the holes), 3 top- and bottom layers, 50% infill
Pay attention for the belt lcks. Since the dents are quite small, this has to be printed with a 0,4mm nozzle (or smaller). Print the locks on their side with the dents in profile.

**Testing remarks**
20170501
Back(s), front, and BLTouch mount are ok.
I will modify the blower mount a little bit on two places : 
- the pin fixing the upper part has to be a little bit higher 
- I will make the connection to the shroud flat instead of with a small profile.
Shroud (at least for the Volcano) has to be a bit lower and more near and aside of the nozzle. It now blows too much on the Volcano itself.

I must say that I am a bit disappointed on the airflow the blower generates. This was better with the 40x40x25mm axial fan.On the other hand, the design is a little bit shorter and more compact on the back.

20170504
Added a new blower mount. Changes : larger outlet, thicker connection for fixing the shroud and an adjustment on the pin holding the upper part of the blower
Made a new shroud. Going back to my old model with two outlets on both sides of the block. Total surface of the air channels is at least the outlet surface of the blower with a larger chamber just before the split in 2 shrouds. The shroud should be printed outlets up and does not need support anymore.

20170505
Removed Work-In-Progress tag. Happy with the result. Go ahead.
The latest version of the shroud is doing its job well. The focus of the air beams is around 8mm under the nozzle and the flow is much better then with the first version.The overall section is better.

20180227
I got the remark that the belt cannot move freely. I recommend using my [X-pulley](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1958418) and [X-stepper mount&X-endstop](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253703)  as these go together. Sorry for any inconvenience by not mentioning this. See the extra pictures added. I do not use a cable chain neither.


FT5 aero setup for Volcano with partcooler

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2175802.

Small sliding hook to attach something (like a cable bundle...) to a top 2020-profile.
S3D factory file included.

Never thought this would be such a hit ... made a collection of different models I would find a use for.
Make your choice.

**30082017** added slider6
Slider6 has a round sliding head. Can slide and turn around 360°C.
I use it to attach the cable bundle to the printhead. It can slide from the left to the right and rotate to follow the movement and orientation of the cables.

Collection of sliding attachments for 2020 profiles

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2214799.

**Update 20170605**
To align the belt and give it a bit more room you will need to install the [FT8/FT9 parts](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2134668) and the idler on the gantry from [this design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2045169) 
Thank you "bustedparts" for the remark!

**Update 20170416**
Added an extra rib to the support for the partcooler. Had a 'small' issue myself when it broke off manipulating the partcooler a bit too much ... look for Aero Backplate V3.stl in the file list


-------------------------------------
This is a new header for the Titan-Aero upgrade on the FT5.
As the new combination is shorter, I designed a more compact header based on the old designs  : [back](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2157734) and [header](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2024355).
- base of the header is flush with the bottom of the stepper motor
- steppermotor is fixed as before to the backplate
- moved the connection front-back to the sides of the stepper with cut-outs for the cabling.
- connection front-back is more solid now to enhance rigidity
- BLTouch  is now mounted on an adjustable support attached to the frontplate.
- Adjustable (front/rear, up/down) partcooler designed for a 40mm fan with easier access to the mount (now on the back instead of bottom)

**Printing**
I printed all pieces with a 0,6mm nozzle, layers 0,36mm. All printed in ABS execpt the partcooler is in PC.
Support needed for the TOP-connector to the carriage and a bit for the partcooler.

**Assembly**
I used 4 M3x40mm bolts to fix the stepper to the backplane. This leaves enough room for the bolts from the Titan.
I made the holes in the partcooler a bit to small for M3-bolts as I cut M3 thread in it. If you want to use bolts&nuts, you will need to use a 3mm drill.
Both the BLTouch and the partcooler can be adjusted.

The assembly feels like one solid block. It is a big difference with the old setup.


FT5 E3D-Titan Aero Volcano combination

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2045169.

This is a revised and reworked version  from [this design](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1958418)
Differences : 
steppermotors are fixed with 4 bolts instead of 2 and adjusting the tension of the belt is now done at the side of the pulley instead of adjusting the stepper. Pulley support is fixed with 3 M5 bolts and nuts in the 2020-profiles.
This is a lot easier to manage and one can leave the belt attached to the X-axis all the time when working in that area. Just loosen the pulley support and leave the belt attached.



**Things :**
- Larger stepper support for the right side with the integrated cablechain support
- Stepper support for the left side
- One pulley support for left and right side
- conical piece to be mounted under the bearings.

- new support for the right X-pulley that fits better with the [Y-endstop](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2056683)

**20170816 - added 3mm X support **

Tip : Use [3d-Tool](https://www.3d-tool.com/en_free-viewer-download.htm) to have a detailed look on this thing

Belt redesign for FT5 Revision 2 (X-Y idlers)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2024355.

** 20170228 : Attention -- Possible issue when in a hot environment **
I ran in a tolerance issue when printing ABS. The top part of the printer was around 50°C and the thermal expansion caused step skipping due to grinding between the stepper motor and the 2020-profile. I've added some extra room (2mm) between the stepper and the 2020-profile with a new front and back plate. 
Unless you only print PLA, I strongly recommend to use files **FrontV2.STL** and **BackV2.STL** !!
Tested and works nicely now. See last picture for the added room between profile and stepper.

I made also a new **TOPV2.STL** for the cablechain mount. This one has, like the bottom piece, complete support for the bolts. 

_______________
A redesigned header for the FT5. Push once to the tip of your hotend to the back/front to see what I mean with rigidity.
Extra support for the bolts, extra ribs on front- and backside, higher bottom- and top part give extra rigidity to the header. Absolutely no play in Y-direction anymore.
The top part has the nylocks integrated. Nylocks fit quite tight (you don't want to loose them when everything is mounted) : use a bolt to pull them completely into their seat. (see pictures)
Bottom part has an integrated support for mounting a partcooler. If you have a Titan/Volcano you could use the [design](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934338) from the pictures 
Bolts to fix top part on slider are M3/12mm

Mounting is quite straightforward.

Tip : Use [3d-Tool](https://www.3d-tool.com/en_free-viewer-download.htm) to have a detailed look on this thing





New rigid header for FT5

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2533621.

The Duetwifi controller has an integrated webserver that supports an IP webcam.
I had an old S4 lying around that couldn't be used anymore as a phone but still had wifi.
I installed this [Webcam app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pas.webcam&hl=en) and that works fine!
So this is a first idea for a S4 mount to be connected on one of the 2020-beams of my FT5
Added a 45° version. Adjustment should be easier.

**Modifications**
 After a while the previous design showed cracks as the S4 was a bit too heavy.
Redesigned both connections. Principle remains the same. Increased the size of the balls from 15 to 20mm = 77% more surface and thus more friction. Changed the connector to a separate and thicker piece (lock) with 2 bolts.  
Lock has to be printed twice.
This one is ok for me now. 

I printed all the pieces in PETG with 20% infill with a 0,6mm nozzle :
- the holder standing up (no support needed) : 0,4mm layers
- both ball joints on their flat surface : 0,32mm layers
- the connection bar flat on the bed with support : 0,32mm layers
- locks : 0,32mm layers

Other hardware :
- 2 M3x14 to fix the holder on the small ball joint
- 4 M3x20 for the connection bar
- 12 M3 washers
- 6 M3 nylock nuts 
- 2 M5 bolts and nut for the connection with the 2020-beam

**Important remarks**
The S4 becomes quite hot when in use as webcam unless you take some measures that can help avoiding overtemperatures :
- remove backpanel (do not remove battery : held in place by the holder)
- select option in the webcam app to continue in background and switch the screen off (you don't need to see on the screen what is happening or do you ? ;)  )
- I will test if installing a small fan would be an option

An IP webcam should have a fixed IP address. For those who don't know the howto in Android :
- Connect to the wifi network you want to connect to
- go into wifi settings and do a long press on the wifi the phone is connected with
- choose second option : "modify network"
- select show advanced options
- change IP-settings from 'DHCP' to 'Static'
- enter IP address and gateway;


Samsung S4 Webcam holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187830.

After trying some of the 40mm shrouds available, I decided to design one for my own needs.
- Full access to the hot end. I do change nozzles often and don't want to remove the shroud each time.
- To be printed in polycarbonate or ABS. I got issues with other versions in these materials. Walls to thick to flex without damage. This one does it. No issues after several removal/installing actions.

Made to cut M3 thread in the holes. Or you'll need a drill to size it for M3.

The shroud is asymmetrical. Highest end should be on top.

**Print**
Version from the pictures has been printed in ABS (next one will be in PC)  
Nozzle 0,6mm, layer 0,32, support needed. I've printed it with the fan side on the bed.

S3D factory file added

E3D Heatsink 40mm fan assembly

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1958418.

Who has had issues already with the GT2 pulleys on Y and X? I did! I replaced these small bearings already several times and decided to finish that by using large ones.
In this design I used  F625ZZ (16mm x 5mm with flange). I mounted them both on a 25mm long 5mm bolt with flanges to the outside (see pictures).
What did I need :
2 pulleys for the Y-axis. 
New supports for the Y-steppers (I wanted to get rid of the the whole melamine piece under both Y-belt channels - no worries about the length of the rods : see picture)
Supports for the cablechain on the right side.

Whats special about the pulleys : while still warm, I screw the bolt in and create as such a thread that holds quite good
**The LEFT X-pulley : 2 pieces now**. I made a separate support for the bearing to allow nicer and more accurate printing 
One could also mount the Y-pulley supports upside down and leave the melamine base.

I replaced the bed support by an aluminium one made of standard 2mm thick profiles. 

Modified cablechain support items : 50mm instead of 60mm
Everything mounted and tested ...

See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2045169 for a revised version. In the revision belt tension adjustment is done with the pulley instead of the stepper





Belt redesign for FT5 using  F625ZZ bearings

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1937153.

The knob from a lid of a Le Creuset pot broke. Here is a new one.
I inserted a M6 nut in the knob. The M6 nut is 10mm between the flat sides of the hexagon and 5mm thick. There is 1mm room.
The trick is to pause the print when the cavity for the nut is complete.
have a look in your slicer and search the layer where the hexagon converts in a circle. It's just before the circle starts that you have to insert the following commands :

G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z20 ; raise nozzle 20 mm can be more. just adapt
M117 Insert nut ; message on the LCD
M0 ; pause - continue with the pushbutton on your LCD or via Octoprint
G1 Z-20 ; back to printing position
G90 ; absolute positioning

I added my G-code file. Made for a 0,6mm nozzle and 0,2 mm layers
Stop is here just before starting layer 63


Knob for the lid of a (Creuset) pot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2192067.

This is an improved version of [this thing](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187830)
I modified the air channel from the fan to the heatsink. It is a bit wider on the left and more then a bit on the right. The asymetrical setup is done as I want it to fit between the heatsink (of course) and [this BLTouch support](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934338).
The original version of the shroud works fine, but I wanted to reduce the resistance in the airchannel through the heatsink while still keeping the flex for easy removal/installation and keeping the Volcano completely accessible for nozzle changes.
The holes for the screws are made to cut M3 thread in it or to use self-cutting plastic screws. Of course you can use a 3mm drill ....

**Works out perfectly :)**. 
I've printed it in Polycarbonate (see pictures) and it has enough flex to be easily removed and enough bite and support to stay nicely in place.

Print settings used : 0,6mm nozzle, 0,32mm layers, support needed (but not that much)
I've printed it in ABS @240°C with bed @110°C and PC @310°C with bed @125°C



E3D Heatsink 40mm fan assembly (model3)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2454806.

I have a (very long eared) Afghan hound and a (long) bearded Schnauzer. The first drinks often and has constantly wet ears, the 2nd has always a wet beard which she tries to dry on my trousers ....

The Idea is the present only a small and constant quantity of water on a small surface to the dog.
A first test with a floating insert in a small bucket seems to work well.
So the path to a more designed version was just a small step.

Bowl and floating insert can be cleaned easily. Not tested yet, but should be dishwasher proof.
Insert weighs around 340 grams for a volume of 0,9 liter

**Dimensions** :
Diameter of the bowl is 210 mm, height is 120 mm
 
**Printing **:
I printed the parts in PETg which is considered safe for food. It is strong, has some flex and has a very good layer bond (Water- and airtight!).
S3D factory files are included. Especially the one for the floating insert uses some S3D features. I gradually changed infill from 10% to 25% (bottom to top) to have a smoother toplayer.
Nozzle used (my standard) : 0,6mm. 
Layer 0,48mm (but that's my choice... Don't need that detail)
Printing temperature : 270°C
Bed temperature : 70°C


Pictures of the bowl or a movie when in use will follow .

Should work also for spaniels, bearded collie ...
Water volume is around 2,5 liters

**Modifications**
20170728
Increased the internal diameter of the bowl a bit. Was a too tight fit for the floating insert...
New STL and Factory file for the bowl
Added a picture of the finished bowl.
Schnauzer still has a wet beard :( but not as wet as before, works very well for my Afghan Hound.


After a couple of weeks using the bowl, I'm very happy with the result.
As I printed it in black PETG and the bowl being outside the house (sunlight!) the advantages compared to open metal bowls or clear ones are :
- no green slimy algae forming in the bowl
- very easy to clean. Just daily passing with a brush. One sees that PETG is water repellent and remains very clean.
- 2,5 litres of water is enough for one day for the 2 dogs.


Waterbowl for long eared dogs like my Afghan hound

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2558690.

A new version for the S4 camera mount. This one uses a hinge to move the camera up and out of the way when manipulating the printer.
The rest is like [this design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2533621)

The arm is fixed with a M3 bolt & nut to the 2020 connector.

All printed wit a 0,6mm nozzle and 0,32mm layers in PETG

S4 IP-CAM mount for printer (2020 extrusion)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1972011.

**NEW Version with shorter nozzles download the V7**

With the close [BLTouch mount](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934338), I needed a new compact partcooler for my volcano.
I want to use large nozzles and change nozzles quite often. The heater block should be accessible for a good grip. Cooler has to fit between BLTouch and Volcano.

This is the result. Design may still change a bit. I did already some tests with good results.
This is the latest version with some improvements : inclination of the outlets, fixation block more robust.

I used a special part to fix the cooler from [this design](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1741653)

Added a 6th iteration : 
Moved the fan inline with the nozzles to get a more equal airflow through both nozzles. cleaned up/streamlined the initial model a bit, changed the support to give more freedom for adjustment in Y-direction.
Made it a bit longer to the back. Space enough in the FT5.
Picture is still from a beta version

Normally I can keep the bed temperature at 75°C, with the first tests of this cooler I got a thermal runaway from the bed after switching to 100% from layer 20 on (6mm). Same fan.

Trick :
put a layer of adhesive aluminium tape on the side of the outlets facing the hot end. The PLA-testversion didn't even move/flex after printing 3 hours@240°C.
Tape used for insulation purposes works great! 

Tip : Use [3d-Tool](https://www.3d-tool.com/en_free-viewer-download.htm) to have a detailed look on this thing

No nonsense part cooler for FT5 Titan Volcano BLTouch combination

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2607650.

I had an old clamp on lamp as the one shown in the picture and decided to give it a new life as magnifying lamp.
The lamp has been designed for a 100mm magnifying glass, a small [c&k toggle switch](http://www.ckswitches.com/products/switches/product-details/Toggle/7000/), 12V ledstrip and a 12V adapter as power supply.

**Printing**
Lamp body : I printed it with 0,4mm layers and a 0,6mm nozzle. Flat lamp top side down on the bed.
Connector : needs support. 0,2mm layers
Locking ring  with the broad site on the bed, 0,2mm layers. 
Switch protection with the flat side on the bed, 0,2mm layers. 

**Assembly**
see picture
Mount the magnifying glass using the locking ring. The ring should fit on the 3 tabs. Melt the tabs on the locking ring. Pay attention for the flat part on the outside diameter : should be directed towards the switch.
LEDs : I glued a strip to the vertical "wall" at the inside of the lamp body and some smaller strips of 3 LEDs each to the slope.
**LEDs do like the correct polarity very much!!** Look for the plus and minus signs on the LEDstrip !
The M3 screw and nut lock the connector in place and allow the lamp to be adjusted.
Pictures of the thing (being assembled) will follow.

Magnifying clamp-on lamp upgrade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3129143.

I had a Z-stepper wire broken at the connection part down on the left-Y bracket.
So I decided to rewire the whole thing and to install a cablechain.

I reused a cablechain I had (similar to [this one](https://www.banggood.com/10-x-15mm-Plastic-Cable-Drag-Chain-Wire-Carrier-Length-1000mm-With-End-Connectors-For-CNC-p-995512.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN))
The cablechain runs on a Alu 20x20 L-profile supported by 2 printed supports ('front support' and 'back support' items). These supports are mounted using one M3 screw and have a tight fit.
I used a 12 wire Lapp-cable with 0,5mm (numbered) wires. 1 to 4 are X-stepper, 5 to 8 are Z-stepper, 9 and 10 are endstop switches for X and Z and 11 and 12 are for the LED-strip.
The cable comes from [Conrad](https://www.conrad.be/p/lappkabel-0026105-geleiderkettingkabel-olflex-fd-classic-810-12-g-050-mm-grijs-per-meter-602996)

I reused the cable protection from the cabling under the bed to the controller board (13mm dia) and installed that on the X-axis. The parts 'locking x-rail' and 'x-rail' fit in the top slot of the X -axis.

The 'cable cover part' clicks on the Y-support bracket and covers the cableconnections.


See also this [video](https://youtu.be/bYSIVtoSAO4)

Stepcraft cablechain modification

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2908888.

My wife wanted a vase that would give a bouquet a nice presentation.
Watertightness was not an option but an absolute requirement ...
So this came out.
It can contain quite a lot of water (>2 litres / 0,5 gal) and she should be able to move the vase WITH the water without the vase breaking apart. Wife-proof so to say... ;)
The form of the vase is one of the supporting elements. The plastic I choose is PETG which I used already before in similar projects and has a good strength, layer adhesion and a tiny bit of flex. Wall thickness is another parameter.


My Wife's Watertight Vase

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2548411.

This is a more elaborated detection unit to be mounted on critical places in the printer like 
- Electronic box : detection of smoking/burning heated bed connectors, failing cheap PSU ...
- Printing area (enclosed)

The unit has an FC22 print with a gas detection unit on it like the MQ135 ( suitable for detecting  of NH3,NOx, alcohol, Benzene, smoke,CO2) , an NTC for overtemperature detection and a LED to signal fault conditions.
See detector specs [here](https://www.olimex.com/Products/Components/Sensors/SNS-MQ135/resources/SNS-MQ135.pdf)
Everything has a quite tight fit.
The holes for the NTC are placed so that they land on the 2 outer pins of the 6pin connector. Easy to solder like that!
I used standard network cable with one pair for the NTC, 2 wires for GND, 2 wires for Vcc, one for the LED and the remaining one for the Digital (or analog) out
Keep in mind that the detector module itself contains a heating element that draws 150mA (see specs). I didn't check the effects on PLA when mounted in the warm top section of an enclosed printer.

I printed this with a 0,6mm nozzle and 0,2mm layers in clear PC for the housing. The gas detector unit has also 2 LEDs on board : power on and alarm. These are visible through the housing.
Housing and mounting are screwed together using standard 16mm M3 screws. The bottom part has a smaller hole for the screws so they can be self tapping. 

** Modification 20170923 **
Cut out a hole on the bottom for easy access to the potmeter when using digital out.
Further documentation about this will be published on [Github](https://github.com/WalterSKW/SafetyProcessor)

** Updated [Github](https://github.com/WalterSKW/SafetyProcessor) repository 20170928 **
You can find the schematic diagram build on an Arduino Nano and the firmware on Github

Have a look on [Youtube too](https://youtu.be/euKyRw3iZ7g)

**20171110 : Added PDF version of schematic diagram to GITHUB**

**20171228 : Added PCB gerberfiles **

Smoke and overtemperature sensor for 2020 extrusion

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1991076.

When the chrome layer starts to peel off, this is the thing you want to print ;)
Knob is designed for an M6 bolt&nut.
Print with the hole down on the bed and pause just before the hexagon cut out changes back to a circle. Check this in your slicer and note the height or the layer number.
If you use a bolt, you will need to print the knob at a height of bolt length -15mm or -10mm depending on the STL you use. Add a couple of mm for safety.
I use Simplify 3D to slice and one can put an object at some height above the bed and then generate support. Modify support as needed and don't forget to remove all support under the hole where the bolt has to be inserted!  
I included 2 versions (see cross sections above) for different bolt lengths. Holes are 25mm deep. Bolt starts in the 15-5-5 version at 15mm, in the 10-5-10 version at 10mm. 

You could also use 2 versions with a nut and use a piece of (stainless) threaded rod


replacement doorknob for shower

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2184942.

This one fits for large heavy laptops. I use one for my Dell Latitude, my wife uses one for her Toshiba Satellite 17" ...
Made it in smaller pieces to be printed on smaller beds. The 2 hooks hold the parts together but a bit of cyanocrylate will fix it forever.
Both parts are connected with 3 x 4mm threaded rod with a 6mm brass tube to keep the parts at 270mm and to hide the threaded rods
Height of the hook is 26mm
I printed it in PLA with a 0,6mm nozzle at 0,4mm layerheight. 2 walls, 3 bottom, 3 top, 30% infill fast honeycomb,3600mm/min
You will have to clean up (a bit of filing) the locking part when using larger nozzles due to the wider tracks.

I added the S3D factory files as well
The 2 parts for one side should fit on a 200x200mm bed (see screenshot).


large laptop stand (dell latitude, toshiba Satellite 15-17inch)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2628548.

Several spacers to fill the gap...
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 mm

Spacers for NEMA17 steppers (back)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1870105.

The spoolholder is made with standard 10mm aluminium rods I had laying around.
Fits on top of the FT5 or on any other machine with 2020 CNC profiles.
Length of the ALU-rods determine size (obvious, not?), so you can make it any size ...
Angles are 60° 
Since only the feet are fixed on the profile, the holder can be easily disassembled if needed.

2 versions : one for 10mm rods, one for 8mm rods.
Added some 10mm clips to keep the spool in place.

Added a filament guide to keep the filament 'under control'. 
Modified the guide a bit 


Spoolholder for Folgertech FT5 (2020 extrusion)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101693.

I had a look at [this part](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2918227) but I wanted something that would print easier (less support) and accept easy to change adapters that could be designed as needed.

This one has a completely flat bottom and very little need for support. 
Magnets used are from [here](https://www.banggood.com/nl/20pcs-N50-10mm-x-3mm-Strong-Round-Magnets-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnets-p-984372.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN)  10mm diameter and 3mm thick.
You will need 3 for the base and 3 for every adapter.
Bolt is M6.

I made my own brush. Just print the part, use the hair from a cheap brush and glue it in the groove. After that cut it to length as needed. I made 3 different adapters with 3 different lengths.

Printed in ABS, 0.3mm layers and a 0.6mm nozzle.
I tried with several settings and types of bits on plywood. Works very well or even excellent.

Stepcraft HF500 Vacuum 32mm adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2569542.

An adjustable idler to be mounted using a 20x40x1,5mm edge profile on a 2020-beam.
The idler has a holder holding the 2 flanged F625FF bearings, a guide to lock the direction of the idler and a knob containing a wingnut to adjust the tension on the belt.

**Printing**
I printed this one in PETG using a 0,6mm nozzle and 0,2mm layers (could be thicker).
Support is needed for the knob.

**Mounting**
First insert a hex head M4x20mm screw in the bottom of the holder.. This should be a very tight fit in the cavity for the nut. Heating (and a bit of force) may help.
the bearings are mounted on a M5x30mm bolt&nut.Put a spacer between bearing and holder on both sides. Bearings are mounted with flanges to the outside (of course).
The guide is placed as shown in the pictures.
Insert the wingnut in the knob and fix the idler combination on the aluminum profile.

BTW . I used a bit of superglue to fix the guide to the alu. Orientation is set by the small notch.

added the drawing for the alu mounting profile (scale 1/1)


Adjustable Idler based on F625ZZ bearings

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2157734.

This is a redesigned backplate for the [rigid header](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2024355) with integrated beltlocks for GT2 belts.
Just put the belt through the slit, insert the lock and pull a bit : locked. push the belt and the lock unlocks.
No issues with getting the belt through the holes and locking them with tiewraps. The backplate will be even more rigid since the holes for the belt are gone.

Those who want to use the locks for their own design : the locks have an angle of 17,1°. I suppose you can neglect the 0.1°


**Printing**
I printed the backplate with a 0,6mm nozzle in ABS, 0,4mm layer for the part up to the beltlocks, from then on 0,2mm layers (due to the details of the beltlock). Infill 60% full honeycomb. Do check the support generated by your slicer (see picture). I included the factory file for S3D users.
The locking parts were made with a 0,4mm nozzle to get good teeth to hold the belt.

**Testing**
This combination has been tested and found good for use.The beltlocks hold firmly during a randomized X-movement pattern at different speeds and have withstand a lot of ABS printing in during the last days.

Stress testing with random moves @ high speed (240mm/s) in this [video](https://www.youtube.com/embed/UTPDHA3nD0Y)

Use the FT8 from this [design](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2134668) for a better alignment of the belt.






FT5 New back with integrated belt locks

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2211793.

This case is made for the MKS TFT32. Made for an FT5 but mounts on any 2020-profile based printer.
Back can be inverted (bottom-up).
Can be used simultaneously with the normal reprap-displays.

Back made in black ASA (warm area) , front in grey PLA.

The front-part, TFT and backpart are held with 4 M3 bolts. The nuts fit in the back.
Mounted to the frame using M5-bolts.

A bit of support needed openings for the SD and USB.

FT5 or 2020 support case for MKS TFT32 controller

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253703.

New FT8 : just for putting the right tension on the belt (and to carry the stepper of course) is a bit shorter since the endstop function has now a separate piece.

To fix the cable ends there are 2 new pieces.
A new FT9 on top of the stepper. Very small and leaving almost the complete surface of the stepper free as heatsink.
A new piece on top of the printhead.

I fixed the cable using the sliding attachments from this [design](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2175802)

A live view in this [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-7dIXSooKs)

**Printing**
I printed all pieces in ABS. This is important for FT8&FT9 since they are in contact with a hot stepper!
Nozzle 0,6mm, 0,4mm layers, 60% infill. A bit of support for the holes.

FT5 cablechain removal and new pieces

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3167336.

I saw the trap on youtube "mousetrap monday" and started printing Markus design.
I left it printing overnight and (yes I hate long prints) I saw in the morning that there had been a jam in the spool just when it was almost finished.....
So I started to redesign a single trap (half of the printing time and reduced risk in a total loss)
This is the result. 
It's just the body. Reuse the choker, arm and bolt parts from the original [design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911549)
Thanks to Markus for the optimized design! Thanks to this old French designer that once did the initial thinkering

So while the trap was still printing, I thought it might be a good idea to add a small pocket to put the bait in. See in the files section for the magical 'bait' word in the name.

I posted a small video [here](https://youtu.be/TMc94cF3s1s)

Printing :
I printed all the parts using a Volcano with a 0,6mm nozzle in PLA
- infill : 25% 
- no support. 
- Layers height :0,4mm 
- Extrusion width : 0,72mm.
- Top and bottom : 3 layers, 
- Perimeter shells : 3.

I used some 1mm rope I had laying around. Just an initial knot needed. The end locks very well in the slot.

Single mouse trap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253728.

To avoid Z-height differences between left and right side of the bed I set up an interlockiong mechanism between both threaded rods.

The pulleys are all made using F625ZZ bearings. Longer bolts through the pulley are M5x30 and are fixed in the 2040-profile.
You will need : 
a long GT2 loop that I ordered from [Adafruit](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1184)
2x500mm of 2020 profile to carry the rods
1x500mm 2040 profile for the steppers
2x straight metal stepper supports
4 x 100mm 2020 pieces to receive the 2 larger 2020 pieces and some corner pieces to fix all 20xx to the chassis
2 extra GT2 pulleys for the threaded rods (8mm internal diameter)
sufficient time and some engineering skills are recommended.

**Mounting recommendations**
Lower the Y-rails until they match with the top of the steel rods. Keep a couple of mm between the rods and the profile.
Install the rods with supports (and the bed!) without fixing them Don't forget to get the timing belts over the threaded rods on beforehand!!!
With the rods in place run the bed to the top position and fix the top supports to the 2020-profile.
Run the bed to the bottom position and align the supports AND the supporting 2020-profiles do this a couple of times until everything runs smooth.
Fix all supports.
Install the stepper.
Install the pullleys on the 2040 profile with a 80mm 2020 profile.
Run the long belt along its path. Loosen the locking screws on the GT2 pulleys on the threaded rods and adjust tension with one of the pulleys on the 2040 profile. DO NOT overtension!
Adjust both sides of the bed measuring from the bed to a point on the X-gantry.
Fix the locking screws of the GT2-pulleys.


A live view in this [video](https://youtu.be/0AtVLDhBhOI)

FT5 Locking Z movement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2551403.

A revised version of [this design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1870105)
Added : 
 - A second level for large 300mm spools
 - A number of inserts to fit with the inner spool diameter of ~50mm
 - Filament guides that clamp on the 10mm tube/bar.

Base and tubing is still the same as the previous version.

Spoolholder for Folgertech FT5 (V2)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2134668.

On demand : The parts supporting the X-stepper and the cablechain.
Not tested yet. I didn't have the time to do that yet.
I recommend to print them in ABS as the stepper can become warm or even hot.

I made 2 new versions of the FT8 and FT9: 
FT8-V2.STL : has now a cavity for the heads of the bolts holding the endstop
FT9.STL : cut out some plastic (insulation!) on top of the stepper to improve cooling a bit.

So printed and tested it. As a result I made a FT9V2.STL with a cavity for the bolts to the stepper. This allows to reuse the orginal bolts. You could also use the FT9.STL and use bolts that are 5mm longer as I did.

**testing**
FT8 : I will move the stepper a bit more to the back to give some more room between the returning belt (most to Y=0) and the back of the header.
FT9 : I made it in ABS and see that it is bending a bit upwards. So It needs to be a bit stiffer in the X-direction. 

Added 2 new versions. Better aligned then the original ones..."

Tip : Use [3d-Tool](https://www.3d-tool.com/en_free-viewer-download.htm) to have a detailed look on this thing

FT5 X-Stepper support (FT8 & FT9)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2358626.

Someone (no not someone) asked me to make a version for 3mm bearings 
This is a "redesigned" version of this [thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2045169)

Pauls Y-Idlers for 3mm bearings

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2259908.

On demand : a 50x50x15mm blower part cooler for the [Aero printhead](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2214799).
You will need 20mm more room to the right. That is the reason why I did this [project](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253703)
I didn't test it myself yet. Still waiting for the blower...
Spacer is 5mm which works fine. You should still be able to align the small gear properly with the large one. It works fine over here ...
Holes for fixing the blower are 2.5mm and meant for cutting M3 thread in it. If you don't want to do that, drill it to the desired diameter.
Recommended to use enough perimeters to get a good support around the holes and to be able to drill them if needed. Each perimeter with a 0,4 nozzle adds 0,5mm.

**This is a first draft and thus still a work in progress.**

Next version I plan will be with a removable nozzle. Could be removed when not needed or easily replaced by another nozzle for i.e. a V6 instead of a Volcano.

FT5 Blower partcooler for Aero

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187638.

Holder for an up to 250mm shower wiper.
Glued with tape to the wall.

**Print**
S3D factory file included for a 0,6mm nozzle.
Print it as shown in the pictures on a raft or a brim to stabilize it on the bed. No support needed then. Infill is not critical at all.

Holder for shower wiper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2918010.

I made a replacement door latch for my caravan.
The original part on the door wasn't a real good fit (angle issue) so I designed some at a 5°, 10° and 15° angle. Depends on how far the fixed part is away from the hinge.
Mine fits well now at 15°

The cilinder of the door part fits quite tight in the latch. So it is up to you (and depends a bit on your printer tolerances) to adjust this a bit using a file or sandpaper.

I printed this in ASA (UV-proof) with a 0,6mm nozzle, 20% infill and 3 perimeter shells.
I also used 2 processes in S3D : lower part with a 0,4mm layer height, upper part (latch and cylinder) with a 0,2mm layerheight.


Caravan door latch

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3091555.

This is a Z-probe for a CNC router. Basically I had issues with those cheap touchplates as I tended to forget to connect the wire to the bit...
So this is a design based on the microswitch one can find in the endstops for 3D-printers.
See the picture for the model.
(I you are looking for a model with a 'normal' microswitch : have a look [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115908))
I mounted 2 **RED** LEDs (in series with a 100 ohm resistor / Not needed on a Stepcraft machine - I removed the resistor). Connection is in parallel with the switch. 
**RED** leds because of the lower forward voltage (~1,6V). If you want another color like blue you should use only one LED (Blue : ~3,3V)
The switch is connected with the C and the NC contacts.
I used piece of spare 8mm steel rod between the switch and the bit.
To flatten the ends, I used my pillar drilling machine and a piece of sandpaper.

Printed with a 0,4mm nozzle and 0,2mm layers in clear PETG.

The height correction is approx 30mm (depending on the piece of steel rod you use)
The repetitivity is excellent. 10 probes gave 10 identical values.


Some video's
https://youtu.be/VvNJ-5EQj_M
https://youtu.be/08NVT6iv0V0
https://youtu.be/A3sQ0L70QQg
https://youtu.be/MQkDcnywv6I



Can be checked with a macro I wrote for UCCNC :

    // -----
    // Purpose : Check probe for repeatability
    // Author : WHu
    // -----
    // Date 		Version	Remarks
    // 20180825		1.0		Base
// -----
//
// 
double Zmin = -100; 		//Max.Z depth
double Feedrate = 200; 		//Feedrate for probing 
double retractheight = 20; 	//The retract height 
double MinimumZ= 1000000;	// Min measured Z height
double MaximumZ= -1000000;	// Max measured Z Height
double AverageZ= 0;			// Average Z height
double MaxDev=0;			// Max registered deviation
double Deviation=0;			// intermediate value, actual deviation
double MeasuredZ=0; 		// Actual measured Z height
int i=0;					// loop counter
//
for(i=0; i<10;i++)
{
	exec.Code("G31 Z" + Zmin + "F" + Feedrate); 	// Start probing 
	while(exec.IsMoving()){} 						// Wait until movement stopped 
	exec.Wait(1000); 								// Safety wait for the UC100 syncronisation 
	MeasuredZ=exec.GetZmachpos();					// read actual Z-height
	AverageZ= AverageZ + MeasuredZ;					// Add to average
	if (MeasuredZ<MinimumZ) MinimumZ=MeasuredZ; 	// New minimum value ?
	if (MeasuredZ>MaximumZ) MaximumZ=MeasuredZ; 	// New maximum value ?
	Deviation= Math.Abs(AverageZ/(i+1) - MeasuredZ);
	if (Deviation > MaxDev) MaxDev = Deviation;
	// Uncomment line below to show the intermediate value
	//MessageBox.Show("Probe[" + (i+1) + "]: "+ MeasuredZ+"\nMin value :"+MinimumZ+"\nMax value :"+MaximumZ+"\nMax Deviation :"+MaxDev); 
	
	double Zup = exec.GetZmachpos() + retractheight;//Calculate the new coordinate for the retract of Z axis
	exec.Code("G00 G53 Z" + Zup); 					//Retract the Z-axis 
	while(exec.IsMoving()){} 						// Wait until movement stopped  
} 
if(MaxDev<0.001) MaxDev=0;	// Absurd to show these values. Even 0.001 is just a gimmick for the Stepcraft ...
MessageBox.Show("Average value :"+AverageZ/10+"\nMin value :"+MinimumZ+"\nMax value :"+MaximumZ+"\nMax Deviation :"+MaxDev);




CNC Z-probe with a (small) microswitch

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2574740.

Another grinder holder. For the Bodum Bistro line double action pepper and salt grinder.
English and Flemish version ;)

Just print. Always ok.

Picture is from a fast, quick and dirty high speed print but shows the type of grinder it's made for.

Bodum Bistro Peper and Salt grinder holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494892.

This is an enclosure for a Duet Paneldue 5" **V2** display based on Davids [design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:656884). 
Meant to be mounted on a 2020-type profile.
Backpanel can be mounted upside down.
Top and bottom have ventilation holes.
Cabling goes through the backpanel.
Slot for SD card, USB connector is accessible, 2 holes in the front for reset and erase buttons.
Screws are all 3mm self tapping.

I made it in PETG and of course with my preferred 0,6mm nozzled Volcano ;)
Layers : 
Frontpanel : 0,4mm and 0,2mm for the first 2mm on the display side (use 2 profiles in S3D)
Backpanel : 0,4mm

No support needed.

Paneldue V2 5 inch display enclosure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1917673.

I didn't find a mount for the Escher3D's IR sensor on a E3D Volcano. Here is one now.
mounts between the fan an the shroud of the E3D cooler.
Still have to test is myself. Should be 2mm above nozzle.
Modified the initial design a bit. Optimized for printing with a 0.6mm Volcano nozzle ;)
Tested. 
Mount the fan shroud flush with the lowest fin of the cooler.

Since I got a number of questions on the sensor/config/board : here are some details.

in configuration.h :
'const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false;
'...
'#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE
'...
' #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // to be adapted to the your situation'
' #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -15
' #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -2
'...
'#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE

I used the probe on Marlin RC6 and an MKS GEN V1.4 board. MKS is RAMPS compatible.
See doc for probe on https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/



DC42 IR Sensor mount for E3D Volcano

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2159938.

Here are some files with random X-,Y- and XY-moves with different speeds.
Rename them to the extension **.gcode** before sending them to the printer/copying them on the sD-card
They don't print anything. They don't heat anything.
Max speed is 2400mm/min. 
Use the speed factor on the Marlin screen to increase or decrease speed.
The tests were intended to do empty moves in the X-Y plane to check/stress the moving parts on a printer (FT5) with a 300x300 bed. All moves fall within 10 - 250 coordinates in X and in Y.
Sequence : 
1- homing
2- move to X140 Y140 Z50 at low speed
3- run random sequence
4- homing

Random looks like [this](https://www.youtube.com/embed/UTPDHA3nD0Y) (only X)
The files with **LONG** in the name, well you may have guessed it, they take a long,long time to finish. Didn't test how long. Not patient enough.

For those who want to generate these files themselves within their own X-,Y-,Z- and speed limits: [download this excelsheet](https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByBx99gGAczrTVZTeFI5ZTdwYmM)


Random X-Y moves for a 300x300mm bed (FT5)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2619487.

Most can holders in a car are made for the 'normal' coke-like cans. Small cans and small (and high) bottles don't fit ...
This thing has an outside diameter of 80mm and is a bit wider then the standard can, but holds with the 8 springs inside the small cans and bottles nicely where you want them to stay.
Made for these car holders with build in 'springs'. Tested in my wifes Mercedes.

Made with PETG because of its flexibility. PETG can handle a bit higher temperatures then PLA. Didn't test it in a hot car yet.

**Printing**
0,4 mm layer height and 0,6mm nozzle.

Beverage can holder for small cans and bottles (car)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2006496.

A pepper and salt grinder holder to avoid spilling salt and pepper on the table.
Made for 65mm diameter grinders.
Printed in black HIPS.

Peper and Salt grinder holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2425167.

This is an antenna wall mount to easily mount/dismount the Alfa Tube UV Wifi - USB antenna.
See [here](https://www.alfa.com.tw/products_show.php?pc=2&ps=227) for the product.
The adapter is attached to the wall of the caravan. Antenna slides into the mount from above.

Printed in ASA (UV-resistant equivalent for ABS). 
Infill 15%, printed with a 0,6mm nozzle and a layerheight of 0,48mm.
4 shells, 4 top- and bottomlayers

Mounting :
Use 4mm self tapping stainless steel screws and a butyl based kit.
Best location is, of course, at the top where the antenna has a clear view.

Wall mount for Alfa Tube-U Wifi antenna

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4941458.

Extra LED lamp for a Melco embroidery machine. The lamp fits nicely in this support and can be glued on the support behind the presserfoot. I used double sided tape to fix it.
I printed vertically it in ABS, but PLA will do the job too. No critical settings.
Added 2 pictures to show the difference...
Ordered this lamp on Aliexpress : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33026222007.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dEOANJC

Melco Extra LED lamp

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2855813.

A driptray for an automatic Dettol soap dispenser.
I found it most irritating that the dispenser started when it detected movement nearby.
Printed this one in PETG

**20180415 **
This is for an older Belgian dispenser.
One for a newer type with a cut out on the back (Germany only?) you can find [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2862913)

Dettol drip tray

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1846339.

I wanted to replace the standard LED spots in the ceiling with LED ones. This mount replaces exactly the existing housing and accepts a square high power LED.
Meant for a Fendt Platin 2008.

Caravan FENDT LED replacement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2862913.

Added a 'German' version with a cut out at the back.
See 'BE' version [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2855813)

Dettol Drip tray (DE)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115908.

I made this version of the CNC Z-probe for a 'normal' microswitch.
See [the original design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3091555) for more info. 
It is the same thing. Only the bottom part has been modified to receive a larger microswitch.

CNC Z-probe with a (normal) microswitch

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2576710.

I hold the PC-covers on my printer in place with normal magnets from a hardware store meant for doors. See picture. After a while the plastic started cracking, so I designed this replacement.
The magnets are 25x15x7mm : magnet with 2 iron parts on both sides and a hole through them. See picture (again)

Made for 5mm bolts.
Put the magnet in the main part and push the pin from the upper part through the magnet and the bottom. Apply some heat to melt them together.

Happy again :)


Magnets for 2020 extrusion

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