The main problem an mostly all Creality printers is the tiny part cooling fan. It's not powerful enough to generate an airflow that'll allow you pushing your printing speeds beyond 50 mm/s, simply because the cooling will fail in critical regions such as overhangs.

Hence, I designed this mod in order to replace the stock blower fan with a 5015 radial fan, which produces a much better airflow. In fact, printing speeds of 100 mm/s even with 80% fan can be achieved easily.

Since the stock hotend shroud won't fit anymore, I also made a replacement for this. You can use it either with the decor piece or without.

**BOM**

You'll need the following items:

- 1 x 5015 radial fan (blower fan)
- 2 x M3 heat set inserts
- 2 x M3 washers
- 2 x - M3x25 bolts
- 1 x Nyloc nut M3
- 1 x JST SMR-02V-B (optional but recommended)
- 2 x crimping contacts BYM-001T-P0.6 (for SMR-02V)
- 1/2 x JST SMP-02V-BC (optional but recommended)
- 2/4 x crimping contacts BHF-001T-0.8BS (for SMP-02V)
- a decent crimping tool (such as the SN-01BM)

As for the JST SMP-02V-BC: you need only one to replace the part cooling fan, but two if you're going to refurbish the stock fan. Same goes for the crimping contacts.

The SMR-02V-B (the longer part) goes to the printer wiring, the SMP-02V-BC (the shorter part) goes to the fan.

Make sure you don't confuse the wires when assembling the JST connectors!
The yellow wire is +24V and the blue wire is GND. Likewise, the yellow wire from the printer goes to the red wire of the blower fan, blue to the black wire. If you accidentally mix them up, it will blow up your blower fan. 

**STL files**
If you're looking for the STL files only, have a look at my [Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/de/model/274961-blower-fan-mount-for-cr-10-smart) account.



Blower fan replacement for the CR-10 Smart

The main problem an mostly all Creality printers is the tiny part cooling fan. It's not powerful enough to generate an airflow that'll allow you pushing your printing speeds beyond 50 mm/s, simply because the cooling will fail in critical regions such as overhangs.

Hence, I designed this mod in order to replace the stock blower fan with a 5015 radial fan, which produces a much better airflow. In fact, printing speeds of 100 mm/s even with 80% fan can be achieved easily.

Since the stock hotend shroud won't fit anymore, I also made a replacement for this. You can use it either with the decor piece or without.

**BOM**

You'll need the following items:

- 1 x 5015 radial fan (blower fan)
- 2 x M3 heat set inserts
- 2 x M3 washers
- 2 x - M3x25 bolts
- 1 x Nyloc nut M3
- 1 x JST SMR-02V-B (optional but recommended)
- 2 x crimping contacts BYM-001T-P0.6 (for SMR-02V)
- 1/2 x JST SMP-02V-BC (optional but recommended)
- 2/4 x crimping contacts BHF-001T-0.8BS (for SMP-02V)
- a decent crimping tool (such as the SN-01BM)

As for the JST SMP-02V-BC: you need only one to replace the part cooling fan, but two if you're going to refurbish the stock fan. Same goes for the crimping contacts.

The SMR-02V-B (the longer part) goes to the printer wiring, the SMP-02V-BC (the shorter part) goes to the fan.

Make sure you don't confuse the wires when assembling the JST connectors!
The yellow wire is +24V and the blue wire is GND. Likewise, the yellow wire from the printer goes to the red wire of the blower fan, blue to the black wire. If you accidentally mix them up, it will blow up your blower fan. 



Blowe fan replacement for the CR-10 Smart

This model is the top lid which can take a Bigtreetech TFT 3.5 display and is meant to replace the DWIN display that comes with the Creality CR-10 Smart (Pro) printer.

I was pretty disapointed by the controlling capabilities of the original display, so I decided to replace it with the BTT-TFT 3.5.

To make the BTT-TFT fit perfect on the original bottom part which snaps onto the printer, I designed a new top lid. 

**Please notice:** _You have to make some cutting/grinding of the original bottom part and also remove the IDC shroud for EXP3 on the BTT-TFT 3.5 (as shown in the pictures)._

**Also:** The bottom part of the housing here is not meant for 3D printing as it may not be dimensionally accurate, except the outer dimensions, which I needed for modelling . 

BTT-TFT 3.5 Housing for CR-10 Smart (Pro)

This model is the top lid which can take a Bigtreetech TFT 3.5 display and is meant to replace the DWIN display that comes with the Creality CR-10 Smart (Pro) printer.

I was pretty disapointed by the controlling capabilities of the original display, so I decided to replace it with the BTT-TFT 3.5.

To make the BTT-TFT fit perfect on the original bottom part which snaps onto the printer, I designed a new top lid. 

Please notice: You have to make some cutting/grinding of the original bottom part and also remove the IDC shroud for EXP3 on the BTT-TFT 3.5 (as shown in the pictures).

BTT-TFT 3.5 Replacement Housing

This model is yet another (experimental) version of my Filament-Cutter base module, not using a servo.
It's meant to cut the filament by using pure mechanical force by "bumping" into the frame of your 3D printer.

To cut the filament, you'd need to position the punch somewhere near the frame or the 2nd part of the punch an move the X or Y axis slowly towards the punch. 
Where you place it totally depends on the geometry of your printer.

Be aware that I havent tested this model in real live myself, so if you give it a try, please drop me a note.

Filament-Cutter-Base-Module V3

This is a very simple print used to raise the Ender-3 (or similar clones using 2040 extrusions) to 100 mm. Very useful if you have a ton of stuff to cram below the printer.

Print these parts 4 times, 2 of them mirrored. It's best using ABS / ASA / PETG for the Outer and Inner parts. The Bottom part needs to be printed from TPU, if you don't have the ones that came with the printer, but can also be cut out from a rubber mat and glued it into the groove at the bottom. 

After printing, snap the Inner part into the Outer part, if you want, you can add a bit of superglue.

Please notice: When attaching those feet to your printer, it's supposed to be a very tight fit, so they won't slip.

Ender-3 Riser Feet 100 mm

This is a handy master spool for sample filament which holds together using strong Neodymium magnets and hence it's very easy to swap filaments.
To assemble it, you'll need two cylindrical Neodymium magnets 10x10 mm and two 10x2 as well as three dowel pins 3 x 16 mm.

It's best practice to glue the magnets and the dowel pins into the printed parts.
Before you glue the magnets in, make sure they are not repelling each other.

Sample Filament Master Spool using magnets

This is another housing for the **Adafruit Multiservo**, which is meant to be used to drive all the servos used on the SMuFF using the Multiservo option but can also be utilized in other projects where you want to drive PWM able devices such as servos or LEDs from a microcontrollers I2C bus interface.

It features the [Adafruit Multiservo](https://www.adafruit.com/product/815)  board, which uses the [PCA9685](https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/PCA9685.pdf) PWM driver IC to control up to 16 servos/LEDs, in contrast to the smaller [Adafruit FeatherWing](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2928) board, which can handle “only” 8 devices max.

The PCA9685 driver IC is an interesting gadget in the microcontroller environment, because it allows you to control up to 16 PWM devices without stressing the MCU and it's timers. PWM means, you can not only attach servos and LEDs but also PWM driven fans, or standard fans if you add a Mosfet to the driver output pin, if you need to.

The IC is controlled via the I2C interface/protocol, which only requires 2 wires for the communication (SDA / SCL). The I2C communication can run on low frequencies, which allows you to use software I2C if you can't use hardware I2C for some reason.

Wiring up the board as an external device is pretty simple, all you need is to provide the communication signals **SDA** and **SCL**, **GND**, **+3.3V** for the PCA9685 and **+5V** for the servos. This housing supports either a 6 wire round or a flat ribbon cable.

**Please keep in mind:** The +5V supply needs to be beefy enough to power all the servos in use. One servo can draw up to 2A of current, depending on the model you use. If you end up using all servos, you'll need an external 5V power supply that delivers enough current and also wires that are able to withstand such a high current flow without getting hot and/or catching fire. 

**Please notice:** On this housing you'll need to desolder/not to solder the capacitor and the 5V screw terminal to make the board fit inside.

For assembly you'll need 10 2.2 x 6.5mm self tapping screws.

The **STL files** can be downloaded from [Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/de/model/227300-housing-for-smuff-multiservo-option).

Housing for SMuFF Multiservo Option

This is another housing for the **Adafruit Multiservo**, which is meant to be used to drive all the servos used on the SMuFF using the Multiservo option but can also be utilized in other projects where you want to drive PWM able devices such as servos or LEDs from a microcontrollers I2C bus interface.

It features the [Adafruit Multiservo](https://www.adafruit.com/product/815)  board, which uses the [PCA9685](https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/PCA9685.pdf) PWM driver IC to control up to 16 servos/LEDs, in contrast to the smaller [Adafruit FeatherWing](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2928) board, which can handle “only” 8 devices max.

The PCA9685 driver IC is an interesting gadget in the microcontroller environment, because it allows you to control up to 16 PWM devices without stressing the MCU and it's timers. PWM means, you can not only attach servos and LEDs but also PWM driven fans, or standard fans if you add a Mosfet to the driver output pin, if you need to.

The IC is controlled via the I2C interface/protocol, which only requires 2 wires for the communication (SDA / SCL). The I2C communication can run on low frequencies, which allows you to use software I2C if you can't use hardware I2C for some reason.

Wiring up the board as an external device is pretty simple, all you need is to provide the communication signals **SDA** and **SCL**, **GND**, **+3.3V** for the PCA9685 and **+5V** for the servos. This housing supports either a 6 wire round or a flat ribbon cable.

**Please keep in mind:** The +5V supply needs to be beefy enough to power all the servos in use. One servo can draw up to 2A of current, depending on the model you use. If you end up using all servos, you'll need an external 5V power supply that delivers enough current and also wires that are able to withstand such a high current flow without getting hot and/or catching fire. 

**Please notice:** On this housing you'll need to desolder/not to solder the capacitor and the 5V screw terminal to make the board fit inside.

For assembly you'll need 10 2.2 x 6.5mm self tapping screws.

This is a housing for the **Adafruit Multiservo FeatherWing**, which is meant to be used to drive all the servos used on the SMuFF using the Multiservo option but can also be utilized in other projects where you want to drive PWM able devices such as servos or LEDs from a microcontrollers I2C bus interface.

It features the [Adafruit Multiservo FeatherWing](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2928) version, which uses the [PCA9685](https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/PCA9685.pdf) PWM driver IC to control up to 8 servos/LEDs, in contrast to the bigger [Adafruit Multiservo](https://www.adafruit.com/product/815) board, which can handle up to 16 devices.

The **PCA9685 **driver IC is an interesting gadget in the microcontroller environment, because it allows you to control up to 16 PWM devices without stressing the MCU and it's timers. PWM means, you can not only attach servos and LEDs but also PWM driven fans, or standard fans if you add a Mosfet to the driver output pin, if you need to.

The IC is controlled via the I2C interface/protocol, which only requires 2 wires for the communication (SDA / SCL). The I2C communication can run on low frequencies, which allows you to use software I2C if you can't use hardware I2C for some reason.

Wiring up the FeatherWing board as an external device is pretty simple, all you need is to provide the communication signals **SDA ** and **SCL**, **GND**, **+3.3V** for the PCA9685 and **+5V** for the servos. This housing supports either a 6 wire round or a flat ribbon cable.

**Please keep in mind:** The +5V supply needs to be beefy enough to power all the servos in use. One servo can draw up to 2A of current, depending on the model you use. If you end up using all servos, you'll need an external 5V power supply that delivers enough current and also wires that are able to withstand such a high current flow without getting hot and/or catching fire. 



For assembly you'll need 10 2.2 x 6.5mm self tapping screws.

The **STL files** can be downloaded from [Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/de/model/227278-housing-for-smuff-multiservo-option-featherwing).

Housing for SMuFF Multiservo Option (FeatherWing)

This is a housing for the **Adafruit Multiservo FeatherWing**, which is meant to be used to drive all the servos used on the SMuFF using the Multiservo option but can also be utilized in other projects where you want to drive PWM able devices such as servos or LEDs from a microcontrollers I2C bus interface.

It features the [Adafruit Multiservo FeatherWing](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2928) version, which uses the [PCA9685](https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/PCA9685.pdf) PWM driver IC to control up to 8 servos/LEDs, in contrast to the bigger [Adafruit Multiservo](https://www.adafruit.com/product/815) board, which can handle up to 16 devices.

The **PCA9685 **driver IC is an interesting gadget in the microcontroller environment, because it allows you to control up to 16 PWM devices without stressing the MCU and it's timers. PWM means, you can not only attach servos and LEDs but also PWM driven fans, or standard fans if you add a Mosfet to the driver output pin, if you need to.

The IC is controlled via the I2C interface/protocol, which only requires 2 wires for the communication (SDA / SCL). The I2C communication can run on low frequencies, which allows you to use software I2C if you can't use hardware I2C for some reason.

Wiring up the FeatherWing board as an external device is pretty simple, all you need is to provide the communication signals **SDA ** and **SCL**, **GND**, **+3.3V** for the PCA9685 and **+5V** for the servos. This housing supports either a 6 wire round or a flat ribbon cable.

**Please keep in mind:** The +5V supply needs to be beefy enough to power all the servos in use. One servo can draw up to 2A of current, depending on the model you use. If you end up using all servos, you'll need an external 5V power supply that delivers enough current and also wires that are able to withstand such a high current flow without getting hot and/or catching fire. 



For assembly you'll need 10 2.2 x 6.5mm self tapping screws.

I made this tool as a proof of concept. I was looking for a different method for the 2nd endstop on the [Filament-Cutter for LGX-Lite Extruder](https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/69552?source=mythangs), since the usual method (adding a switch to the tension lever) does not cut here.

So I decided to go with an optical sensor, which gets triggered by an encoder/flag wheel that is driven by one of the dual drive gears. This is the result and I quickly realized, it can also be used as an filament motion sensor.  I'm not using any filament motions sensors yet but I though it could be fun publishing it.

So, if you plan adding such an encoder to your extruder, feel free to give it a try and let me know the results.

**Please keep in mind:** I haven't tested this gadget on a real LGX-Lite and there might be an issue with the gear I've modeled. However the STEP file is included, so you can easily make some quick & dirty adjustments if needed.

Beside a couple of screws for mounting the optical sensor and the encoder itself to the LGX-Lite, you'll also need a flange bearing of type F623ZZ (ID: 3mm OD: 10mm height: 4mm), a M3 x16 bolt and a M3 (self locking) nut.

The encoder mount is split up into two parts for easier mounting. Attach the Encoder-Sensor-Mount part to the LGX-Lite first and bolt it down, then screw on the optical sensor. After that mount the Encoder-Gear-Mount (with the Encoder-Gear already mounted) and bolt that one down as well.

Here's a short video showing the device in action using a simple geared motor.

For using this gadget in Marlin, you'd have to recompile the firmware with these options enabled:
 
_#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM
#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR
_
For Klipper you'd need these settings:

__[filament_motion_sensor lgx_lite_encoder]
detection_length: _len_
extruder: extruder
switch_pin: _pin_
runout_gcode: FILAMENT_RUNOUT
__

Make sure you modify the detection_length and switch_pin accordingly.

**Credits**
Special credits go to Mad Hatman for the LGX-Lite model he has published on Grabcad. I had to make some modifications though, since the gears were not modeled very detailed (but I think that's mostly because it's based on the original Bondtech STEP file).

Filament-Encoder for LGX-Lite Extruder

Just as the other models in my Filament-Cutter collection, such as for the Orbiter 1.5, this is a remodeled version of the Filament-Cutter-Base-Modul. I made this model a bit smaller than it is in the Base-Module.

Please notice that in contrast to the other models I've published, this one is not meant for a specific 3D printer, it's more like to be used as a template. Although, the only thing else you'll need is a decent mount for your printer and your hotend. 

This model is a STEP file only, so you have the option to modify if to suite your needs.

Filament-Cutter for Bondtech LGX-Lite Extruder

This housing is a modification of my previously published model, the SMuFF Electronics-Case (SKR+Relay+Buck) New.

I had to modify this housing since the SKR E3 V3.0 is 4mm longer (2mm on each side) than its predecessors, the E3 V1.2 / V2.0/ -DIP V1.1.


**Please notice: Do not print this, if you intend using one of the older boards.
**
 

It keeps the controller, the Velleman VMA 400, Elegoo 4 or SMuFF mini relay board, the LM2596 or SY8205 buck converter and a display (DIY OLED, LeoNerd's OLED Module, BTT TFT 2.4, or FYSETC 12864 Minipanel) all in one place.

The display lid has to be printed flat and then bent to meat the upper angle. Right after it has been printed, let the bed cool down, then remove it from the bed, put it down on the bed again and heat up the bed to 5-10 deg. above the glass temperature of the material (60-70 deg. C for PLA, for example). Wait 10 minutes then bend the lower part until the gap closes.

This STEP files comes also with two lid templates for your own display integration.

Electronics Case (SKR+Relay+Buck) for E3 V3.0 controller

*Re-Upload for better visualization*

---

**Tiny-Touch NMPG**
This is a remix of my [Tiny-Touch](https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/30439) model. 
The NMPG appendix stands for "**N**o **M**agnets, **P**ure **G**ravity" ;o)
In order to achieve this, you have to print the parts with a layer height of 0.1 mm (or less).
Here's a video of the 1st version in action on [YouTube](https://youtu.be/L979JxKXjAA).

Changes made in V2 compared to [V1](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3833861):
-  needs no magnets
- slimmer body / flag
- slotted mounting holes
- IR sensor cap added (optional)

---
# **Wiring**
---
The basic wiring is shown in [this picture]
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PUr-svHrU30UUQ23uF6f7CsCJ9RxK8CM/view?usp=sharing).
If you want to know more about logic level conversion, [here's a nice article](https://next-hack.com/index.php/2017/09/15/how-to-interface-a-5v-output-to-a-3-3v-input/).


---
# **BOM**
---
To build the Tiny-Touch you'll need:
- 1 x 5V linear nano servo like the [Graupner Mosquito R](https://www.graupner.com/Servo-Mosquito-R/14001/) or [this](https://www.banggood.com/1-Pair-AFRC-D1015-1_5g-Pro-Micro-Linear-Servo-With-Optional-JST-or-JR-or-FUTABA-Plug-For-Indoor-3D-Small-RC-Airplane-p-1619739.html?rmmds=detail-topright-recommendation&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=520802) (make sure it's "R" not "L")
- 1 x standard IR endstop [like this one](https://www.roboter-bausatz.de/en/3d-printing/3d-printer-electronics/endstops/142/optical-limit-switch-with-cable-set-3-pin-50cm-for-cnc-3d-printer-or-doors?number=RBS10091)
- 1 x JST XH 4POS header [like this one](https://electronics.semaf.at/4-Pin-200mm-JST-Connector-Through-Hole?curr=EUR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkbDa-9al5AIVhuiaCh09cgsnEAQYAyABEgKLlfD_BwE)
- 1 x M3 x 25 mm bolt
- 2 x self tapping screws 2.9 x 9 mm
- 1 x self tapping screw 2.2 x 6.5 mm
- a couple of wires


---
# **Modders welcome**
---
The STEP file is included for those who need to add a custom mount. Therefore, the upper part of the mount is separated in the STEP file and it also contains some variations. 


---
# **Setting up Tiny-Touch for Marlin**
---
If you want to set up Tiny-Touch on Marlin (2.x), don't use the **BLTouch definitions**!
Here's a [really nice how-to](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/nxm865/guide_for_bfptouch_on_ender_3_v2/) on reddit made by user **cpxazn**. The how-to originally describes the [BFP-Touch](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290) sensor but it's the same as for Tiny-Touch.
Skip the hardware section and go directly to the **Firmware** section of this write-up. 
The only difference in the setup is the definition of the servo angles for deploying / retracting the probe. For the BFP-Touch these values are:

**#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES { 100, 155 }**

Whereas for the Tiny-Touch you'll need: 

**#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES { 170, 20 }**


Please follow the instructions step by step to the end and you'll be successful.

Tiny-Touch NMPG

SOLID

This is a wall mount for the QNAP RM-IR0004 remote control.

I've made this for testing the SMuFF.

Use the RM-QNAP-Logo* files for the multicolor version and arrange them in your slicer as usual.

QNAP RM-IR0004 wall mount (Single- and Multicolor)

*Re-Upload for better visualization*

---

This is just a simple standalone enclosure for the [LeoNerd's OLED module](https://www.tindie.com/products/leonerd/oled-front-panel-module/).

I've created this enclosure as an addition to the electronics enclosure of the SMuFF project.

Because this nice little module comes with all necessary features for I/O operations (128x64 display, rotary encoder, buttons, LEDs - red and green in main button -  and buzzer) and might be of interest for many other Arduino based DIY projects, I've decided to publish this enclosure as a separate thingy.

In the files you'll find the enclosure (STL/STEP) as well as a front panel template (STEP) for your own enclosure designs.The package also includes a model of the OLED Module itself (STL).
The Button Protector STL is pure optional may be used to protect a button from being press accidentally. Simply glue it onto the case if needed.

---

**Hint**
If you're using the LeoNerd's OLED Module within an Arduino (or similar MCU) project, please notice that you have to terminate the SCL/SDA lines with a pair of 2.2 - 4.7K pull up resistors.

---

**Library**
A decent Arduino library which simplifies the usage of this module can be found [here on my Github repository](https://github.com/technik-gegg/LeoNerd-OLED-Module-Library).

LeoNerd's OLED Module Enclosure

Enclosure

_Re-Uploaded model for better visualization..._

**This is...**
my latest addition for the SMuFF V6 as published [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4827853).

It's a Direct-Drive-Extruder mount for the BIQU-H2 extruder which also incorporates the Filament-Cutter as published [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4724991).
I've used it to update the SMuFF firmware for handling DDEs. 

More information about this project can be found [here](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/work-in-progress?authuser=0#h.ssx9ayceh6f4) or join us on [Discord](https://discord.com/invite/BzZ3rBf).

Here's a [video](https://youtu.be/9xR9MkAh_Ww) where you can see this Thingi in action printing a dual color 3D Benchy.

The included STEP file contains all parts you see in the overview image. Use this to mod either the BIQU-H2 mount or the Filament-Cutter according to your needs.

**Please notice:** All credit for the BIQU-H2 model goes to maker [3DE2016](https://www.thingiverse.com/3de2016/designs), who did an excellent job creating and publishing this model, which can be found [here on Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4808811) as well. 


SMuFF - DDE (BIQU-H2) mount with integrated Filament-Cutter for Ender-3

_Re-Uploaded model for better visualization..._

 
**Yet another DDE variation for the SMuFF...**


This one utilizes the Orbiter Direct Drive Extruder V1.5. 
The most significant difference to the previous published BIQU-H2 version is, that the Filament-Cutter sits below the extruder and hence, the SMuFF isn't forced to purge the filament in the extruder in order to release the 2nd endstop switch.

Although this model is meant to fit the standard Ender-3 extruder, I've replaced the fan shroud with a smaller one that needs a 30 mm fan but also comes in a more compact size and offers the option to mount a BL-Touch or Tiny-Touch to it, as well as a 50x15 blower fan for a more sophisticated part cooling.

A decent BL-Touch bracket is included, the Tiny-Touch mounts without a bracket directly.

The STEP file is included, so you're able to adopt this design to your specific needs but also to examine which part goes where.

# BOM
To build this you'll need:
- an Orbiter  DDE V1.5
- up to 15 threaded inserts M3 x5.7mm
- a 30 mm fan (24V)
- a 50 x 15 mm blower fan (24V, part cooling)
- a couple of M3 screws in various length (8mm, 10mm, 16mm and 20mm)
- a couple of self tapping screws (2.2 x 6.5 mm, 2.2 x 9.5 mm, 2.9 x 6.5 mm)
- a micro switch (12.8 x 6.5  x 5.8mm) 
- a compression spring (5.5 x 20mm, 0.5-0.6 mm wire diameter)
- a cutter blade
- a standard size Servo (i.e. AMEWI)
- a couple of zip-ties
- a couple of wires

# Please Notice
The Filament-Cutter uses the same components as the ones I've published before. Hence, if you need to know how it works, visit the [SMuFF website](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/work-in-progress?authuser=0) for more articles on this item. 

The mounting holes for the blower fan are supposed to fit the standard Ender-3 blower fan.

Also, in order to run this DDE on the SMuFF, it'll need an firmware update to version 2.32.

SMuFF - DDE (Orbiter) mount with integrated Filament-Cutter for Ender-3

## Yet another DDE variation for the SMuFF...

This one utilizes the Orbiter Direct Drive Extruder V1.5. 
The most significant difference to the previous published BIQU-H2 version is, that the Filament-Cutter sits below the extruder and hence, the SMuFF isn't forced to purge the filament in the extruder in order to release the 2nd endstop switch.

Although this model is meant to fit the standard Ender-3 extruder, I've replaced the fan shroud with a smaller one that needs a 30 mm fan but also comes in a more compact size and offers the option to mount a BL-Touch or Tiny-Touch to it, as well as a 50x15 blower fan for a more sophisticated part cooling.

A decent BL-Touch bracket is included, the Tiny-Touch mounts without a bracket directly.

The STEP file is included, so you're able to adopt this design to your specific needs but also to examine which part goes where.

# BOM
To build this you'll need:
- an Orbiter  DDE V1.5
- up to 15 threaded inserts M3 x5.7mm
- a 30 mm fan (24V)
- a 50 x 15 mm blower fan (24V, part cooling)
- a couple of M3 screws in various length (8mm, 10mm, 16mm and 20mm)
- a couple of self tapping screws (2.2 x 6.5 mm, 2.2 x 9.5 mm, 2.9 x 6.5 mm)
- a micro switch (12.8 x 6.5  x 5.8mm) 
- a compression spring (5.5 x 20mm, 0.5-0.6 mm wire diameter)
- a cutter blade
- a standard size Servo (i.e. AMEWI)
- a couple of zip-ties
- a couple of wires

# Please Notice
The Filament-Cutter uses the same components as the ones I've published before. Hence, if you need to know how it works, visit the [SMuFF website](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/work-in-progress?authuser=0) for more articles on this item. 

The mounting holes for the blower fan are supposed to fit the standard Ender-3 blower fan.

Also, in order to run this DDE on the SMuFF, it'll need an firmware update to version 2.32.

This model is a revised version of the Smart Filament Buffer.
In contrast to the first version, this one uses 3mm thick panels, which can be cut out from PVA using the supplied cutting stencils.
The Lid has been modified to take the new PCB, which you'll get here on [PCBWay](https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Smart_Filament_Buffer.html).


Smart Filament Buffer V2

This is an addition to my [Filament Cutter for E3D-V6 model](https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/49215) and is meant to fit on the Creality Linear Rails update kits (purple color).
It also contains a version of the mounting plate for the stock BL-Touch bracket (green color).



Filament-Cutter for Ender-3 (E3D-V6 Hotend) new Options

This is a split up Inlet-Guides model for SMuFF V6 which you'll need in case your going for more or less than 5 materials.
Simply remove or expand slices to the amount of tools you need and join them all together before you export to a STL file.

SMuFF V6 Inlet-Guides

This STEP file contains the base for a Filament-Cutter, which is being used for the SMuFF.
This base module allows you to create your own solution on hotends/extruders not covered by any of my models.
 

Filament-Cutter Base Module

This is a version of the Filament-Cutter for the SMuFF used on an Creality Ender-3 with an E3D-V6 hotend.


The latest version has improved on cable routing / mounting. Also, BL-Touch and Inductive probe mounts are sturdier now.


The front mount has got two additional M3 heat set inserts, in case you'd like to mount a different part cooling fan solution.
And now there's also an additional Filament-Cutter-Base STL that takes a M6 fitting only (no fitting adapter needed).

Filament-Cutter for Ender-3 (E3D-V6 Hotend)

This is a version of the Filament-Cutter for the SMuFF used on an Creality Ender-3 with an E3D-V6 hotend.

Housing for the WEMOS D1 as published [here](https://github.com/technik-gegg/SMuFF-Ifc2).

SMuFF-Ifc2 Housing for ESP8266 (WEMOS D1)

SMuFF-Ifc2 Housing for the ESP8266 (WEMOS D1)

Housing for the ESP32 NodeMCU / ESP32-DevKit as published [here](https://github.com/technik-gegg/SMuFF-Ifc2).

If you'd like to grab the PCB, you can get one [here at PCBWay](https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/SMuFF_Ifc2_PCB_for_ESP32_54c64dbf.html).

SMuFF-Ifc2 Housing for ESP32

Housing for the ESP32 NodeMCU / ESP32-DevKit as published [here](https://github.com/technik-gegg/SMuFF-Ifc2).

As the name says, a solution for the Filament Cutter (used with the SMuFF) on an Ender 3 and Microswiss direct drive combo.

**Please notice:** This model is kind of experimental, since I never tested it.


Filament Cutter for Ender-3 Microswiss Extruder

Standard size servo of type [AMEWI DC5821LV WP](https://amewi.com/AMX-Racing-DC5821LV-WP-Digital-ServoStandard-218kg) which can be used for modelling.

Model is supposed to be dimensional accurate. If it's not, let me know.


AMEWI Servo Type DC5821LV WP

Standard size servo of type [AMEWI DC5812LV](https://amewi.com/AMX-Racing-DC5821LV-WP-Digital-ServoStandard-218kg) which can be used for modelling.


AMEWI Servo Type DC5812LV

High Torque Micro Servo model [EL0510M from Hacker](https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/ditex-ecoline-microservo-el0510m.htm?shop=hacker_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=51000510&p=11670)...

Didn't find one online, so I made my own!

Model is supposed to be dimensional accurate. If it's not, let me know.

Hacker Servo Type DITEX EL0510M

High Torque Micro Servo from Hacker...

Didn't find one online, so I made my own!

Model is supposed to be dimensional accurate. If it's not, let me know.

DITEX EL0510M.stp

Small servo carrier for the SMuFF.

Please make sure you read my comments posted [here](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/work-in-progress?authuser=0#h.ssx9ayceh6f4) before you start building one.

SMuFF - Small Servo Carrier

Small Servo Carrier.stp

STEP file for YASL (Yet Another Shelf Lamp).

Here's a [video ](https://youtu.be/49lWYzhv3io) of the effects integrated.

YASL

STEP file for YASL (Yet Another Shelf Lamp).

YASL-Shades

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3709082.

# Introduction
This little thingy is yet another supplement to the [Smart Multi Filament Feeder project][1] (SMuFF) as published here on Thingiverse but can also be used with other MMUs.

If you've watched my videos of the SMuFF, you might have spoted the "Filamess" in one of them.

To get rid of this problem, I came up with yet another filament buffer.
But this one's not just an ordinary filament buffer, it comes with quite some features:

 - small footprint (327 x 210 x 55 mm)
 - different mounting options 
 - integrated unique filament run-out sensor
 - easy to load / unload
 - up to 1000 mm buffering capacity per filament
 - hinged or non-hinged 

Here you'll find two very short videos of the device: 
https://youtu.be/0ec92D4GgwU
https://youtu.be/mqZ_M43gkhc

# Options
You can build this device either with or without the filament run-out sensor. With please use M05.stl and without M05a.stl.
Mine was build to attach it perpendicular to a wall / cupboard (M02.stl/M03.stl). In order to mount it flat to the wall / cupboard you'll need M02a.stl and M03a.stl.
If you rather prefer not to mount it somewhere, please use the S01.stl (printed twice) and M02.stl printed twice instead of M02.stl/M03.stl for a stand version. 
As for the hinge (H01/02/02): You don't have to assemble it, if you don't feel like since the top lid is being held in place by four strong Neodymium magnets.

# BOM
Beside the printed parts above, you'll need the following items:
 - 6	Acrylic plates, 4 mm thick (Plate.dxf)
 - 14	M4 x 50 mm screws
 - 16	M4 nuts
 - 14 M4 washers
 - 4	Brass inserts M3 x 6 mm (inlet & outlet)
 - 4	M3 x 12 mm screws (inlet & outlet)
 - 1	Threaded rod M4 x 125 mm (Hinge)
 - 2	Self-tapping screws 2.9 x 6.5 mm (Hinge)
 - 8	Self-tapping screws 2.9 x 9.5 mm (Hinge)
 - 7	Self-tapping screws 2.2 x 6.5 mm (OLED and Prototype board)
 - 2	Neodymium cylindrical magnets 10 x 10 mm
 - 2	Neodymium cylindrical magnets 10 x 1 mm
 - 5	Steel balls 8 mm
 - 1	Piece of ferromagnetic tape 
 - 1	[Sensor PCB][3]
 - 1 	Arduino Nano V3
 - 1 	0.96" OLED (128x64 pixel, monochrome)
 - 5 	Linear Hall-Sensors A1326 LUA-T or SS495A
 - 3	Microswitches 6 x 6 x 10 mm
 - 1	JST-XH male/female connector (3 or 5 pin - later for future enhancements)
 - 	and of course some wires and cables

Well, that's it for now.

# Update 1
Uploaded the firmware code to my [Github repository][2].
If anyone is keen to make a PCB for the electronics, let me know.

# Update 2
Added two stencils (**Stencil-top.stl** and **Stencil-bot.stl**) which allow you to cut out the side panels from a [rigid foam board](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000326851073.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.ba763b297uJsxh&algo_pvid=62ee1904-64cc-48f6-b2d0-701581b0e4ef&algo_expid=62ee1904-64cc-48f6-b2d0-701581b0e4ef-17&btsid=0ab6f82215934122037115257e5c31&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_), for those who don't have easy access to a laser cutter.

Print out those stencils, cut 6 panels to size of 200 x 300 mm and use the stencils to drill the holes with a 4.5 mm drill and cut out the upper curvature with a stanley knife.


Video will follow.

# Update 3
I've designed and published a PCB for the SFB, which you can conveniently order on [PCBWay][3]. 
The updated [schematics][4], as well as the Gerber files for that PCB can be found within the SFB Github repository.


[1]: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431438 "SMuFF project"
[2]: https://github.com/technik-gegg/SFB "Github"
[3]: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Smart_Filament_Buffer.html "PCB from PCBWay"
[4]: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mWZ2pn_LwSKw48KuJCTX07_IEcR3iGDE/view?usp=sharing

SFB - Smart Filament Buffer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3206822.

This is a Duet 2 Maestro / WiFi / Ethernet enclosure, which I've designed as a standalone solution (as in: not mounted directly to the printer).
Originally designed for the new Duet Maestro, it can easily be used with the Duet WiFi or Duet Ethernet, since all the Duet boards share the same size and mounting holes (afaik).

The blower fan at the bottom is used for cooling down the stepper drivers and can be connected to either the "Always on" fan or to a PWM fan.

The lid was designed with a snap in feature for easy access to the internals.

The (4.3 inch) TFT case is mounted to the lid using 3 M3 x 10mm screws. It is detachable though, just in case one likes to mount the display elsewhere. 

For the connection to the printer I'm using DB25 / DB9 and MPX connectors/plugs, which allows me to swap controllers as needed. 

The DB25 connector connects with the stepper motors and the endstops. The DB9 connector connects with the hotend (heater, Z-Probe and fans). One of the MPX goes to the heated bed (if you use one), the other is meant for some LED-lights (or whatever you fancy). Take a look at the **"Connectors pinout"** PDF file for detailed information.


# UPDATE:
I had to redesign the snap-in latches on the lid. Made them separate parts now, which will snap in to the lid.
This way, you can print them with a different orientation, which makes them way stronger. On the other hand, if they break, you can simply replace them without the need to reprint the whole lid.
Please note: The latches are a real tight fit, so you have to insert them with a bit of force.
Also, print the lid without supports. It may block the snap-ins for the latches. 


# UPDATE:
I've added the STEP file, so others can remix the case for different LCD sizes and such.

The Duet 2 Wifi board I've used for modelling is missing though, since I converted it to STL for performance reasons. If you need the board for remixing, there's a decent model of it on GrabCAD made by **Phil Maddox**. You can find it here: [Duet2WifiPCB][] 
A model of the 5 inch display you'll also find there, made by **Morten Nielsen**: [PanelDue5][] 

[Duet2WifiPCB]:https://grabcad.com/library/duet-wifi-1
[PanelDue5]: https://grabcad.com/library/paneldue-5-with-pcb-version-2-1

Duet 2 Wifi / Ethernet / Maestro enclosure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4827853.

---
**I added all the STL files for V6 to my [Github repository](https://github.com/technik-gegg/SMuFF-1.1/tree/SMuFF-2.0-(Experimental)), which will be the source for all updates on STL files in the future.**

---
# Please visit the new [project website](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/home) where most of your questions will find an answer.
If that's not the case, please don't post your questions or comments in here but rather join us on [Discord](https://discord.com/invite/BzZ3rBf). Since a lot of makers are already there, chances your questions and/or comments will be heard and answered are pretty fair.

---
**If you clicked on Download and/or Collect, please make sure you also click Like... you know, it's for the stats which helps the distribution and eventually helps improving this project further... ;o)**

---

This is the latest iteration of the [SMuFF](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431438) and the successor of V3-V5. 
The modifications and benefits of this version have been documented in this [YouTube-Video](https://youtu.be/jrZbu9ZxIxE).


The BOM can be found [here](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/downloads/documents?authuser=0).


SMuFF V6 -  Smart Multi Filament Feeder with Bondtech Gears

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4667026.

# Another contribution to the SMuFF project
This thingy is a combination of an Filament-Wiper and a Purge-Bin for the Ender-3-Pro.
This is an alternative method for multimaterial / multicolor printing, if you don't want to use a purge tower (which mostly is waste of filament).

# How does it work?
Before a tool change the servo moves the arm into its position and the (tool change) GCode moves the hotend into the purge position (nozzle is sitting right over the tack). Then the tool change takes place and purges out a given amount of filament right onto the tack. When finished, the servo moves a few times back and forth to get rid of the purged chunk, which - hopefully - lands in the purge bin/tray.
The GCode then moves the hotend into the wipe position and the wiper cleans remains from the nozzle before the print continues.

# Not using the SMuFF?
The SMuFF has an dedicated servo for this (wiper) tool and supports it through its firmware. In case you'd like to use this tool without the SMuFF, you have to control it through your printer controller (i.e. Marlin) and add the code needed yourself. 

#BOM
Beside the printed parts you'll need the following:
- a Micro servo (i.e. MG90S) with a servo horn disc (24 mm)
- one brushing disc (Dremel, Proxxon), either brass or metal with an OD of 22 mm and a bore of about 2 - 2.5 mm
- one dovel  pin 2 x 20 mm (cut to size as needed)
- one tack (bare brass)
- one M3 x 25 mm bolt
- one M3 x 16 flat-head bolt
- two M3 locknuts
- two M4/M5 x 10 flat-head bolts (tray)
- two M4/M5 T-Nuts
- two M5 washers (about 1 mm thickness for tray)
- two disc magnets 10 x 2 mm (neodymium; optional for tray)
- a couple of self tapping screws 2.2 x 6.5/9 mm
- a couple of M3 washers (optional)

The two neodymium magnets are used to hold the tray in place. Those are optional but recommended because they ensure that the tray doesn't come loose while printing.

# Assembly
Is pretty straight forward. Nothing really complicated here, just look at the pictures and you'll get the gist.
**Hint**: Put some Kapton tape over the part where the tack sits so the purged out material won't stick to the printed part.
I'll maybe create a video on this topic sometime in the future.

# Mounting
The "P1" part is meant to replace the X-Stepper / endstop cover that ships with the Ender-3. Remove the original cover,  unscrew the endstop from it and screw it into the "P1" part at the very same position. Then use the original bolts to fasten the "P1" in place.

# As usual
All files for printing are contained in the ZIP file (the STL is just a dummy to satisfy the uploader). STEP files is included as well, just in case you want to mod it for your (not Ender3-Pro) printer.

# Video 
Here's a [short video](https://youtu.be/OtaQUjBxxpQ) of it in action (for demonstration purposes only).

# Hotend
Just in case you're wondering. On the Ender-3 I'm using an E3D V6 hotend which is mounted using the [solution of maker wingforce](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4357518). So if you're planning to equip your Ender-3 with an V6 as well, head over to this thingy and have a look. 

SMuFF Wiper + Purge Bin for Ender-3-Pro

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4724991.

# Yet another remix...
of my [Filament-Cutter](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650129). This one is explicitly meant to be used on a standard Ender-3-Pro (Creality) stock hotend.

**Please notice**: I'm using a MicroSwiss All-Metal kit (for better printing results) and the cutter was designed to match that. If you're still using a stock Creality hotend, you have to replace the fitting that screws on with some kind of collet.

Also: The spacer (the part that screws onto the carriage) will move your hotend about 17mm in Y-direction, so you may adjust your printbed size / offset accordingly.

I moved from the previously installed V6 hotend back to (more or less) stock hotend because of I felt the urge to reduce the length of the purged material (this is a drawback of using the Filament-Cutter). Due to the different sizes of hotends (and of course the slightly larger size of V1), I was able to reduce from about 200 mm down to 95 mm to avoid color bleeding and get nice color transitions ([here's a video on that](https://youtu.be/BZCdmnUz5Mw)).

So far, I'd say the Filament-Cutter is the right decision to use.
Although it wastes more filament because the cut-off remains in the heatsink/heatblock/nozzle until it gets purged out by the following filament, it makes tool swapping a lot less frightening (because of jams in the tube/heatbreak, which you have with bulged filament coming right out of the nozzle) and a lot more smooth and faster.

The BOM is mostly the same as in the Filament-Cutter V1 (except a couple of additional screws / bolts, which I'm sure you have lying around).
For the MicroSwiss All-Metal hotend you'll need a 23mm long PTFE tube into the cutter.

STEP file is included.

# UPDATE 1

Created a more stable junction between the Cutter and the Servo-Mount. You now need only one M3 x 30 mm bolt and nut to keep it in place.

# UPDATE 2

Made the Servo Mount a bit more stronger because the previous broke during operation due to the high forces.
I've also modded the Cutter base, which now is able to be combined with the 5-Way splitter I've designed. For those who don't use the splitter, there's an adapter for the standard M6 fitting included. Keep in mind: The adapter thread is left handed!


Filament-Cutter Ender-3 (Creality)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4556044.

This is my new submission for the [SMuFF project](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431438). 

This new case has got a bit more room for some of the features I've added recently, of which a 4 channel relay board for the **Shared Stepper feature** is one.

It has got space for up to two StepDown converters. One at least is used as the +5V (or +6V / +7V - whatever you need) power source for the servo(s) on the **Servo Variants**, because the SKR mini +5V rail isn't beefy enough to drive the servo(s) directly. 
The 2nd StepDown converter is optional and is not needed yet (but maybe at some point in the future).

On this case, the display cover is detachable, so you may replace it easily with a different one, say for a standard RepRap Full Graphics display.

It also has got a V-Slot rail mount, which will fit most of the 40x40 extrusions you'll find on 3D printers (i.e. Creality Ender, ...). 
If you'd like to use this type of mount, simply glue the V-Slot mount onto the case bottom. 

Please notice, that on V5 I've moved the servo pins from the endstop connectors **Y+** and **Z+** to the Y-Stepper driver socket by using an adapter, documented in the pictures above. Making the adapter will take just a couple of minutes.

This move was needed in order to attach some 2.2K pull-up resistors to the servo signal lines, which, because they are pulled up to +5V, needed pins which support the "Open Drain" configuration (in order not to fry the MCU).



New Electronics Case for SMuFF

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3877555.

# This is...
yet another addition to the [SMuFF](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431438).
It assembles a case for a different controller based on the SKR mini V1.1 board.

I've picked this board because it's pretty cheap and equipped with an 32-Bit STM micro controller. Besides, you can pick any stepper motor driver you like.

If you don't know what the SMuFF is, please head over to [that thingy](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431438) and have a look.

Be aware, that this thingy is pretty useless for anything else than the SMuFF.

For more details on firmware, assembly and such, please head over to [Github]
(https://github.com/technik-gegg/SMuFF-1.1) for the firmware and to [the Wiki](https://github.com/technik-gegg/SMuFF-1.1/wiki) for further instructions.


# UPDATE 1
For those of you using the **Servo Variant**, have a look at [this new case](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4556044)


SKR mini V1.1 case for SMuFF

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3833861.

# Newer Version Available
The next iteration of this thingy is [available here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4661556). Not sure if you can see it since it won't list in the "My Designs" collection... 


# Prologue
I badly needed a replacement for my inductive Z-Probe because inductance and a magnetic bed don't go well together.
So, quite a while, I was eyeing the [BFP-Touch][1] project from Bruno Porto but, same as with the original BLTouch, it was simply too big for my needs.

So I've decided to make my own version, which you can see [here in action][2]. In the first picture above, you'll see a size comparison between the Tiny-Touch, the Z-Probe I've used recently (left) and a standard LJ12A3-4-Z/BX inductive sensor (right). 

Although I myself wouldn't consider this thingy a "Remix", most (if not all) of the credit goes to Bruno and all the other guys who paved the way for this project.
Special credit goes to **Orcy Wagh**, who created the servo model over on [Grabcad][9].


# What is different?
In contrast to the BFPTouch, this thingy uses a [nano sized linear servo][3] to release / lock the flag, thus it doesn't need as much space as a micro servo.

![Size comparision](https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/6c/4b/ee/3b/11/large_display_20190902_082821.jpg)

# BOM
To build the Tiny-Touch you'll need:
	* 1 x 5V linear nano servo like the [Graupner Mosquito R][3] or [this][8] (make sure it's "R" not "L")
	* 1 x standard IR endstop [like this one][5]
	* 1 x JST XH 4POS header [like this one][4]
  	* 4 x Neodymium magnets 5 x 1.5 x 1 mm [like this one][6]
	* 1 x M3 x 20 mm screw
	* 2 x philips screws 2.9 x 9 mm
	* a couple of wires

# Assembly
There's not much to it. 
	1. print the parts first, then replace the 3 pin JST header on the IR endstop with the 4 pin version and also turn it upside down, so that the header points to the front.
	2. glue the Neodymium magnets onto the flag and the IR endstop, so that the magnet-pairs repel each other.
	3. insert the flag into the body and insert the screw from the bottom
	4. place the servo into it's compartment, then solder the 3 wires onto the JST header pins of the IR endstop (red: +5V, black or brown: GND, white or yellow: PWM signal)
	5. put the cap onto the M3 x 20 screw (optional)
	6. connect everything to your 3D printer
	7. setup and calibrate your 3D printer

#Connecting the Tiny-Touch 
There are tons of instructions out there on the interwebs on how to connect a BLTouch / BFPTouch to your 3D printer. Just follow those and you'll be successful.

**One important note though: Since the servo needs 5V for proper operation, the IR-Endstop signal pin will also output at a 5V level. If your 3D printers controller board is not 5V tolerant on port pins, you'll need either a voltage divider, a level shifter or a couple of diodes/resistors in between the signal pin of the IR endstop and the input pin of your controller board!
[Here's a great article about this topic][7].
Please make sure you don't kill your controller board when connecting the Tiny-Touch (if you do, don't blame me - I told you not to)!**

The basic wiring has to be like this:
![Wiring](https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/31/3c/33/d1/79/Wiring.png)

# Hints
 * If you don't have/ don't want to use the neodymium magnets, a simple ballpoint pen spring will do. There's a blind hole for it at the bottom. Just cut it to length and pull it over the M3 x 20 screw.
 * Make sure the parts of the assembly can move freely. If something gets stuck, the servo will eventually get hot while it's trying to get into position and might melt the plastic surroundings.
 * When the touch pin (screw) needs to be deployed/retracted, I found that the values 160 (deployed) and 60 (retracted) work best. You may have have to find out your own positions if those don't fit.
 * STEP-File is included, just in case you need to adopt the mounting holes.
 * Sometimes, the IR sensor doesn't recognize the flag depending on the material used. To overcome this issue, I've painted the top part with a black marker. 

# Testing
Did some testing with different probing speeds (on a Duet3D controller). Here are the results:

**150 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.053 0.048 0.057 0.048 0.051 0.053 0.046 0.055 0.048 0.048 0.061 0.055 0.046 0.048 0.048 0.034 0.053 0.053 0.055 0.046 0.053 0.048 0.051 0.048 0.063 0.044 0.051 0.055 0.051 0.055, mean 0.051, **deviation from mean 0.005**

**300 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.068 0.085 0.068 0.070 0.064 0.061 0.081 0.081 0.074 0.063 0.066 0.048 0.066 0.066 0.063 0.064 0.066 0.063 0.061 0.068 0.068 0.064 0.066 0.072 0.070 0.064 0.066 0.061 0.059 0.063, mean 0.067, **deviation from mean 0.007**

**500 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.087 0.094 0.091 0.087 0.091 0.089 0.085 0.081 0.074 0.083 0.091 0.096 0.093 0.089 0.081 0.087 0.081 0.078 0.078 0.089 0.089 0.085 0.081 0.083 0.087 0.085 0.083 0.081 0.083 0.087, mean 0.086, **deviation from mean 0.005**

**800 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.093 0.094 0.078 0.091 0.085 0.078 0.078 0.079 0.079 0.076 0.083 0.083 0.081 0.079 0.078 0.081 0.083 0.089 0.079 0.085 0.081 0.087 0.078 0.076 0.074 0.072 0.083 0.081 0.079 0.087, mean 0.082, **deviation from mean 0.005**

**1000 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.085 0.074 0.083 0.081 0.079 0.076 0.078 0.078 0.078 0.079 0.081 0.079 0.081 0.081 0.083 0.079 0.079 0.081 0.079 0.081 0.079 0.078 0.064 0.074 0.076 0.078 0.070 0.076 0.068 0.068, mean 0.078, **deviation from mean 0.005**

**1200 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.066 0.070 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.068 0.066 0.068 0.066 0.066 0.068 0.068 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.068 0.070 0.070 0.070 0.068 0.066 0.074 0.066 0.070, mean 0.068, **deviation from mean 0.002**

**1500 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.068 0.068 0.070 0.074 0.064 0.068 0.070 0.070 0.070 0.068 0.066 0.074 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.066 0.068 0.070 0.061 0.066 0.063 0.063 0.064 0.068 0.066 0.068 0.068 0.066 0.066, mean 0.067, **deviation from mean 0.003**

**1800 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.059 0.064 0.061 0.063 0.057 0.063 0.063 0.057 0.063 0.057 0.063 0.063 0.063 0.063 0.059 0.059 0.061 0.063 0.061 0.068 0.063 0.068 0.059 0.059 0.059 0.061 0.063 0.059 0.061 0.059, mean 0.061, **deviation from mean 0.003**

**2000 mm/min**
G32 bed probe heights: 0.061 0.061 0.063 0.049 0.057 0.053 0.053 0.051 0.048 0.048 0.053 0.046 0.049 0.049 0.051 0.049 0.049 0.049 0.049 0.049 0.048 0.049 0.048 0.053 0.049 0.049 0.042 0.051 0.044 0.048, mean 0.051, **deviation from mean 0.005**

Even though the deviation seems to get better with higher speeds, I think it's legitimate to say that the precision is somewhere in the range of 0.005 mm, which is not that bad.
Also, a probing speed of 800 - 1000 mm/min is totally ok for getting reliable values/distances (on a 32 bit board, that is). 

# Updates
 * Added a new flag which comes with pockets for the magnets. It's much easier just to slide them in than to glue them. 
![New Flag](https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/a5/ae/f7/63/1c/tiny_preview_20190901_071910.jpg)

[1]: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290 "BFPTouch"
[2]: https://youtu.be/L979JxKXjAA "YouTube"
[3]: https://www.graupner.com/Servo-Mosquito-R/14001/ "Graupner Mosquito R"
[4]: https://electronics.semaf.at/4-Pin-200mm-JST-Connector-Through-Hole?curr=EUR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkbDa-9al5AIVhuiaCh09cgsnEAQYAyABEgKLlfD_BwE
[5]: https://www.roboter-bausatz.de/en/3d-printing/3d-printer-electronics/endstops/142/optical-limit-switch-with-cable-set-3-pin-50cm-for-cnc-3d-printer-or-doors?number=RBS10091 "roboter-bausatz.de"
[6]: https://www.supermagnete.at/eng/block-magnets-neodymium/block-magnet-5mm-1.5mm-1mm_Q-05-1.5-01-N "supermagnete.at"
[7]: https://next-hack.com/index.php/2017/09/15/how-to-interface-a-5v-output-to-a-3-3v-input/
[8]: https://www.banggood.com/de/1_5g-180-Degree-Nylon-Gear-Digital-Linear-Micro-Servo-3_7V-5V-For-Micro-RC-Airplane-p-1529910.html?rmmds=search&ID=41322&cur_warehouse=CN
[9]:https://grabcad.com/library/micro-linear-servo-right-1 "Orcy Wagh"

Tiny-Touch - Smallest possible DIY BLTouch clone

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4662753.

# This is...

a mount for the SMuFF meant to be used on the top bar of a 2020 extrusion profile, which is being used for the frame of many 3D printers nowadays (i.e. Creality, BIQU, Anycubic, Artillery).

Not much else to say here...

For the STEP file, please visit my [GrabCad Library](https://grabcad.com/technik.gegg-1/models)

SMuFF Mount for 2020 Extrusion

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3804809.

This is yet another optical filament run-out monitor/sensor, which I've tried to make as small and lightweight yet reliable as possible.
I got it down to a size of 37 x 25 x 12.5 mm.

It features some very small Neodymium magnets, which are acting as spring replacement for the lever.

Here's a video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADsNyAwer2s

BOM:

4 x Neodymium disc magnet, 3 mm in diameter, 1 mm thick
2 x Philips screws 2.2 mm by 6.5 mm

Folks from the EU can get those magnets here: https://www.supermagnete.at/eng/disc-magnets-neodymium/disc-magnet-3mm-1mm_S-03-01-N

# Update
Added the STEP file in case you want to modify / remix it.

TinyRM - Smallest possible filament run-out monitor

Newly designed housing for the SMuFF controller.

This housing keeps the SKR E3 controller (-DIP/V2.0/V1.2), the Velleman VMA 400,  Elegoo 4 or SMuFF mini relay board, the LM2596 or SY8205 buck converter and a display (DIY OLED, LeoNerd's OLED Module or FYSETC 12864 Minipanel) all in one place.

Compared to its predecessor it's not as bulky and makes it quite more comfortable to work with.
One can put it on a desk (nearby the printer/SMuFF) or mount it to the printer using a gooseneck mount (HAMA fits best). 

The display lid has to be printed flat and then bent to meat the upper angle. 
Right after it has been printed, let the bed cool down, then remove it from the bed, put it down on the bed again and heat up the bed to 5-10 deg. above the glass temperature of the material (60-70 deg. C for PLA, for example). Wait 10 minutes then bend the lower part until the gap closes.
 
This STEP files comes also with two lid templates for your own display integration.

**Version 2 **
has been modified so that it can take a SMuFF mini relay board instead of the bigger Velleman or Elegoo relay boards and I've added a GoPro mounting bracket as an alternative  to the HAMA Gooseneck mount.

Electronics-Case (SKR+Relay+Buck) New.stp

New designed housing for the SMuFF controller.
 

Creator of:
- the SMuFF
- SFB
- SMuFF-Ifc
- Filament-Cutter
- Tiny-Touch
- YASL

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