Bartender shotglass, also known as a "Double Jiggler". The tall side is 2 oz and the short side is 1 oz.

-Print with the tall side facing down. 
-Designed to print without supports but you can use them if your printer does not have good bridge settings. 
-20 walls or 100% infill

To properly clean this shotglass, scrub with soap and water followed by a sanitizing soak in a bleach/water solution and finally allowing to air dry, this is a common and widly used method of sanitization. If you decide to print this, you adknowledge the proposed risks assiociated with consuming drinks that came into contact with a 3D printed part. For more information regarding the proper sanitization steps for 3D printed parts, the following article is an excellent paper published on the subject: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/373174194_Sanitation_Effectiveness_of_3D-printed_Parts_for_Food_and_Medical_Applications


Bartender Shotglass 1oz-2oz

Double Jiggler 1oz-2oz.stl

for holding the included cleaking test tube upright to allow dart to soak

Dart cleaning tube stand

3D printed screwdriver with a 3D printed locking mechanism. 

Yes It would be easier to go out and purchase a swappable bit screwdriver. But the manufactureres seem to think that I need to fit 800 other bits into the handle so the handles alwasy feel oversized to me. 

I needed a light duty screwdriver for makerspace work and general screwdriving needs. In the tests I have conducted with this tool, it can unscrew most bolts provided they are not stuck, I have also driven a coarse thread screw into a wooden board partway to start it for my drill. It works well for the materials it is made out of. Mine is PLA but PETG would work much better due to its higher layer adhesion.

All parts are swappable if something breaks and a "handle blank" file is included for those who wish to design their own handle. 




!!!IMPORTANT!!! 
This design will only function correctly with impact driver bits. The magnetless locking mechanism needs to use the notch from the impact bits in order to function properly. 

Materials:
1x M3x20mm flat screw
1x M3x16mm flat screw
1x M4x50 socket screw
2x M3 hex nut
1x M4 hex nut

Assembly: 
You will need one of each part that ends with "f". The handle blank is not required but if you would like to customize a handle you are more than welcome to. (I wanna see some meme handles.)

Please check the assembly file for where the hardware goes.
The M3x20 attaches the latch to the shaft, the M3x16 attaches the switch to the shaft, and the M4x50 attaches the handle to the shaft. 

Printing orientation suggestion included in pictured


Extra:
I personally use a variety box of makita impact driver bits: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085DZ9G14/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M3 flat screws:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3TY2FB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M4x50 socket screw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B1T8NPP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3D Printed Screwdriver (no magnets required!)

Screw driver assembly.3mf

This is a replacement plastic shell to contain the electronics included in this cheap no-brand universal projector remote:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VJGL88G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
(sometimes it is sold out. Look around and find one that looks similar, if it is under $20, it will probably work)

materials:
1 universal projector remote
4x M2.5x15mm bolts
4x M2.5 hex nuts
3x M3x10mm bolts
3x M3 hex nuts
2x AAA single battery holders (here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C2XT5C5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)

I have left detailed 3mf files to show where the hardware goes. This will not recieve a full writup but I will include a few things to take note of should you decide to build this for yourself.

- pay attention to the battery orientation. Running the voltage will not work. Battery orientation is correct in the render.

- you will also need to wire the batteries in  series. The wire leads coming off of the battery holders should go through the included holes within the remote body and travel down the channels to be soldered to the input power pads on the circuit board. 

Universal remote upgrade

Projector remote shell full.3mf

Bracket for mounting a RGB Splitter hub to a 2.5" SSD mount in your PC case. I didn't like how to magnets that came with this splitter would scratch up the black finish on the metal in my case when it shifted around. 

Uses M3 bolts and nuts. Simply remove the top plexiglass piece and remove the bolts that have the magnets on them and assemble it again but with M3 bolts and bolting it to the 3D printed mount.

RGB Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T58RVZ7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RGB Splitter Hub 2.5in SSD Mount

Bracket for mounting a RGB Splitter hub to a 2.5" SSD mount in your PC case. I didn't like how to magnets that came with this splitter would scratch up the black finish on the metal in my case when it shifted around. 

Uses M3 bolts and nuts. Simply remove the top plexiglass piece and remove the bolts that have the magnets on them and assemble it again but with M3 bolts and bolting it to the 3D printed mount.


I like challenging myself, this is one of my personal challenges I made for myself.

I wanted to design a Nerf gun in one day (1) using only what I have on hand  (2)without ordering any “specialty items” (I.e. O-rings), and (3) I could spend $10 at Walmart. This is what I came up with, a nerf gun based around an aluminum miller lite bottle. The piston on the inside uses PETG piston rings to seal against the walls of the bottle, and a one way valve so you can load a dart and the air will be drawn through the one way valve instead of pulling a vacuum behind the dart.  Print red parts in PETG and Grey and Blue Parts in PLA

Never designed a nerf gun before, but I’d say that this was a good test on the compression a 3D printed piston apparatus would be able to generate.

BOM:
1/2in dowel
15x M3x20mm button head bolts
15x M3 square nuts
3x M3x40mm button head bolts
+3 M3x20mm bolts and +3 M3 square nuts for each barrel extension

Optional: Petroleum Jelly for Piston Lube  

Miller Lite Nerf Gun

ML Nerf gun Assembly

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4909669.

Wassup fellow armchair engineers. 

This is a quest 2 interface cooler I designed. This is currently an industrial fan for your eyeballs. Your eyeballs are going to wish you were sweating your ass off when this thing is going full blast if only for some moisture. It is recommend to cover the inlet of the blowers with some tape or use the 7mm blower to CPAP adapter, if you can blink a lot I would recommend the 10mm. I'm working on a different version that will have adjustable airflow, just putting this here for my Beatsaber and Thrill of the Fight sweats, those homies could use it. I kinda doubt anyone will print this, people just want STLs to collect them I guess... 

Shopping list is down below, obviously if you have a different battery pack or USB extension cable that will be fine, I got this one based on the sole reason that its green. If you want to make an aliexpress list, drop it in the comments, I'm not making one sorry. 

 USB extension cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T96SMZD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anker Battery Pack (this one can charge a quest while its in use, highly recommend)
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Charger-Anker-PowerCore-20100mAh/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=anker+battery+pack&qid=1626395907&sr=8-8

VRcover Brand interface (I used one of their cool XG foam replacements, but the regualar ones will work too)
https://us.vrcover.com/products/cool-xg-foam-replacement-set-for-oculus%E2%84%A2-quest-2

Heavy Duty Velcro Stickers (Just cut up the "hook" side into strips and place them around the interface)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CEXPSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB splitter (if you are comfy with soldering you can always solder the fans together)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZSDJJD7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CPAP tubing (any CPAP tubing will work as long as it is 22mm)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087BC5PLK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5v blower fans (fans)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0899H1GZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8-in cable ties (amazon basics was sold out, try these)
https://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Trilancer-Adjustable-Organizer-Fastening/dp/B07JHJ354Z/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=8+in+reusable+cable+tie&qid=1626397026&sr=8-6

2x M5 x 50mm bolt
2x M5 nut
2x M3 x 20mm bolt
2x M3 nut


If you have questions about the build process, ask and I'll answer. I did not include build instructions because I figured I included enough photos. 

FAQ:
Q: Its too complicated.
A: That's not a Q but thanks, I don't care.

Q: How does it work?
A: Battery power fan. Fan push air down tube. Tube deliver air to face. Air cool face = less sweat.

Q: How difficult of a print is the interface?
A: It's tricky, chuck on a raft and full supports and it should turn out fine.

Q: How did you get the fans like that?
A: Great question ImmenseFiend, the two fans intakes are actually facing each other, the blower spacer has open areas for the fans to still suck in air and each fan is is less likely to eat fingers in this configuration.

Q: How much does it weigh?
A: Yer mom

Q: No seriously how much does it weigh?
A: About 230g, you could remove about 70g off of it by cutting the excess UBS cables and soldering the fans directly

Q: Will you make a video about this? 
A: Probably not, air is invisible so you'd have to take my word for it on if its actually working regardless. I could be persuaded into a 360 video and a beat saber expert plus with or without comparison tho. 

Q: Why are you doing an FAQ with yourself?
A: I prefer the interview format.

Q: Does this work with "XYZ headset"?
A: No but heres the link to the ducts I designed and used for this project so that you can design your own interface for your headset:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4910915

Because the thingivere remix option is broken, I was unable to provide the proper sources. I used this Quest 2 interface 3D scan in this project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650519

Oculus Quest 2 Ram Air Cooler

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4883598.

Have you ever wanted to have even quicker access to your sharpie? Why conceal it in your pocket when you can open carry it? Introducing the open carry sharpie holster!

BONUS! You too can also double carry (that is, if you prefer double fisting). Now with iconic phrases such as “come and take it” and “Hi-point? More like fine point”, you too can stay strapped AND let everyone know you’re the one packing ink.

Before printing, check with your local legislature to see if the open carry of magic markers is legal in your state. You may have to apply for a license.

Because we currently lack the technology to print in camouflage, make sure to print in black for maximum scary  


STL codes for Duals:
OG: No words
Q1: "Come and Take it"
Q2: "Hi-Point? more like fine point"

Belt sizes:
Woven: 10mm x 35mm
Leather: 6mm x 41mm

Also my apologies, I designed all of them backwards so now 

Sharpie Open Carry

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4976806.

These are some Oculus Quest 2 Grips that I made from a Deterrence Dispensed AR15 A2 grip file. I currently use a version of these controller cups on a gunstock design of mine and they are very comfortable to hold. At the moment the gunstock is not publicly available, sorry. The added Knuckle Strap is what attaches the controller to the grip on top of helping the controller stay in your hands. The Knuckle Strap is required for this accessory to work correct.

I am currently a Student and my school has a very strict "no firearms" policy in the 3D printing lab. Unfortunately they wont let me print and test this at the moment. However I have previously printed this on a personal printer and have played with it multiple times per week so I know that it works. 

The Knuckle Strap utilizes these 18-in reusable cable ties:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HSQHQSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the VRcover brand knuckle straps but have been unable to replicate the velcro/fabric knuckle strap cover that they use for. These can be a little scratchy without a cover, my current workaround is to use a hardhat sweatband cut in half:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXJMSWF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: you will need to remove the lanyard of your controllers in order to achieve proper fit, but the addition of the Knuckle Strap is a suitable replacement.

 

Quest 2 A2 Standalone VR15 grips (with integrated Knuckle Straps)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4874636.

I suck at soldering so I whipped up this terminal block thingy that anyone can add to their own models. I personally used it to construct DIY perks studio lights. I'll post my variation with the terminal blocks as well.

Materials: 
M3x10-ish bolt
M3 square or regular hex nut
20 AWG wire (max size, I don't know how much smaller I would go)

Instructions:
1) insert 20awg wire through one end of the bottom square hole running the entire length of the block and push it clear to the other side, this will be the wire connecting all of the other wires together.
2) pull the wire out the other side a decent amount.  
3) measure the length of the terminal block and strip that much off of the end of the wire.
4) pull the length of wire back through the terminal block from the opposite side. 
5) only pull it out enough to where you can see the stripped wire in every station.
6) insert a bolt to pinch the wire in the correct place.
7) strip, twist, and insert a new wire you wish to connect to a station in one of the circular holes on the face of the terminal block.
8) insert an M3 nut into the rectangular hole above the circular hole
9) bolt it down from the top and be careful not to tighten it so much that the wires start to excessively twist, just firm enough to ensure proper contact 

Terminal Block to integrate into 3D prints

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843174.

This is my design for a "Piber Optic" Raspberry Pi fiber optic indicator lights. This was mostly designed as a piece to integrate into Raspberry Pi cases so that the indicator lights can be seen from the outside without having to look though a vent or a cooling fan. Fits the 4b model and adds 3mm to the bottom of the pi. Due to the fiber optic cable being clear PETG filament,   the max distance you could likely send the light down the filament is about 9 inches. 

 You will need one "Piber Optic Mount" and one "Piber Optic USB side" to get the basic setup. I have included a very poorly designed V-slot mount designed for an M5 bolt with a T-nut on it, that can hold the ends of the clear PETG outside of the Pi case.

Fiber Optic Raspberry Pi LED Indicator Using CLEAR PETG

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4852139.

This is my take on pimping out this raspberry pi case. It's got heat sinks, a 5v fan, and my fiber optic indicator light design. 

If you are going to print this, you will still need the file called "Raspi7inch_Front.stl" from the original. If you don't plan on using the fiber optic indicator lights, you can use the "Raspi7inch_Case.stl" from the original as well. Basically, the only difference between my remix of the case and the original is that mine is slightly taller to accommodate the fiber optic indicator mounts and I made the side ports (USB-C, HDMI, etc) a bit easier to get into.


2020 mounts that I used:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4561701

Piber Optic indicator system:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843174

UPGRADE Raspberry Pi 7 Inch Touchscreen Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5186066.

Blank switch inserts for the center console of a 2nd gen Toyota Tacoma (2005-2015)

I designed this for my under-seat subwoofer install to have a clean bass volume adjustment knob. I have included STEP files to make it easier for you to customize your own. the one labeled v3 is the one I designed for my custom bass knob. 

The one labeled v1 is basically the bare minimum of structure to have it not wiggle around, if you have a large switch to install, I recommend starting with that one.

Printed with ESUN PETG at 245 and 80 degrees on a G10/garolite print surface
20% infill
4 walls, floors, ceilings.

I do not recommend PLA for vehicle mods. 

Tacoma 2nd gen blank switch (center console)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5322584.

You will need 4 of these neoprene drawer cushion pads. This is a pack of 300 but I use these in so many of my designs and they work wonders for getting things to fit snuggly together. They go inside the holes on the back of each part. 



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081QSH6KL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Corsair 5000D airflow 3D print accessories (Headphone and Link Cable organizers)

Corsair 5000D airflow VR accessories (Headphone and Link Cable organizers)

The stock ASUS Wifi antenna stand that comes with the 2t2r antenna is really not amazing. 

With this wide base antenna stand, you can kiss the days of your antenna falling over goodbye.

Optional magnet instructions:
on the bottom of the antenna stand, there are two "pockets" which you can slide a 15x3mm Neodymium magnet under each pocket and tuck it under the flap, pushing gently with a flathead screwdriver or Allen key.

I used chking's model of ASUS antenna to form a "negative" shape from the inside of his version. I wanted one a bit wider that I didn't need to bolt to a surface, so I used his model to cut out the shape of the antenna in a body in Fusion360 and used that body to create the hole for the antenna. Props to chking for nailing the geometry of the antenna because I was not looking forward to recreating it. Credit where credit is due, here's his model if you would like to check it out: https://thangs.com/designer/chking/3d-model/ASUS-Antenna-Mount-47950



Tags: ASUS Motherboard 3DPrinted TuffGaming WiFiAntenna Improvement CustomAntenna GamingAccessories TechUpgrade DIY WirelessGaming ASUSTuffGaming TechMod 3DPrintedParts TechEnhancement GamingInnovation CustomTech WiFiImprovement MotherboardUpgrade AntennaDesign PC Computers

ASUS Antenna Stand (with optional magnets)

The stock ASUS Wifi antenna stand that comes with the 2t2r antenna is really not amazing. 

With this wide base antenna stand, you can kiss the days of your antenna falling over goodbye.

Optional magnet instructions:
on the bottom of the antenna stand, there are two "pockets" which you can slide a 15x3mm Neodymium magnet under each pocket and tuck it under the flap, pushing gently with a flathead screwdriver or Allen key.

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