Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5157156.

Modified these two HTC Vive tracker mounts for my purposes.

Vive Tracker Limb Mount: enlarged strap holes to fit 1 inch Velcro cinch straps and reverted to original design that uses a M4 screw for the stabilizing pin

Belt loop: modified to allow a more rigid belt to slip through

Parts:
Velcro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TGX0HK/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000TGX0HK&linkId=23a2f61d3e3038aee5606c64a3886cef (affiliate link)
M4-0.7 x 8mm screws: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M4-0-7-x-8-mm-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-2-Pack-12278/203540102
1/4"-20 x 1/2" hex bolts: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-20-x-1-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Bolt-5-Pack-812190/302007774
5/16" washers: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-Stainless-Steel-Flat-Washer-5-Pack-800351/204276463

Vive Tracker Mount Remixes

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5127628.

Remixed this to remove camera mount. I might add a different style mount at some point later.

Used original CAD file for the X-axis cover from Creality as a base, but it worked fine for me when I printed it out (including x-axis end-stop mount).

Edit: ended up using this camera mount that goes on the right side of the x-axis: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3147295/

 Ender 3 X cover for Cable guides (REMIX)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5021688.

Took this filament sensor mount and remixed it for my needs and combined many of the other mods.

<ul>
<li>Increased clearance between 608 bearing and switch so it doesn't get triggered when no filament is entered</li>
<li>Added hole for zip tie from [thing 4813860](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4813860)</li>
<li>Added clip from [thing 3449930](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3449930)</li>
<li>Moved filament channel closer to the frame so it enters the extruder straighter</li>
<li>Made the switch hole a bit tighter of a fit</li>
<li>Made the key a tighter fit</li>
<li>Made the holder for the bearing a tighter fit (increased OD slightly to prevent wobble)</li>
</ul>

Got it perfect based on my Ender 3 (regular) and the switches I used.

The roller switches I used were this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283228402439 (6 pc TEMCo Micro Limit Switch Roller Arm Subminiature SPDT Snap Action LOT)

The bearing is a regular 608-2RS skateboard bearing.

Ender 3 Filament runout sensor super duper remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5127641.

Modified this gantry adapter bracket for the BCZAMD brand direct drive kit that has slightly different dimensions than the PrinterMods one.

BCZAMD 3D Printing Upgrade Parts Ender 3 Direct Drive Extruder Conversion Kit  ~$18:(Affiliate link):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GXCCB2K/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B08GXCCB2K&linkId=4abff6b55c08fad1a8c4267a60376549

Used:
Hero_Me_Gen5_Base_4.stl
5015_Dual_Radial_Fans_Dual_Ducts.stl
BLTouch_Wing_Medium.stl
and this gantry adapter (MDD Bracket Fix.stl)

Using the stock hotend and MK8 nozzle.

I also remixed this extruder mount that uses a dual-gear extruder instead of the stock single gear extruder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4523499

Hero Me Gen5 Gantry Bracket for BCZAMD MDD Kit

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5127620.

Remixed this, fixed the spacing for the mounting holes (I think it was 0.5mm short) and added an x-axis cable chain attachment.

Worked with a $10 dual gear extruder that I bought from eBay (not sure of brand).

The original creator wasn't kidding about it being a tight fit.

MDD adapter for Winsinn dual gear extruder compatibility with HMG5 with cable chain (REMIX)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5201387.

Simple remix of these two things. Modified to fit 35mm thick door. STEP file included so you can easily modify it to whatever size door you have. Snug fit, but slightly looser tolerance than the previous quick change mount (which was the exact width of the plate).

HTC Vive Lighthouse Door Mount + Quick Release

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5135748.

Remixed this so it can be mounted on the top bar of my Ender 3, since I have the spools of filament on a shelf above it (and using a direct drive mod).

This is based on my other remix with tighter tolerances for the roller switch: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5021688

Runout Sensor for 2020 rails top mounted version (REMIX)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3604203.

Made a quick remix of this for my use case. Added mounts for a MOSFET with 42mm by 52mm mounting holes and a LM2596 buck converter. Also made room for a Y-axis damper (physically tested with [thing:3143102](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3143102), also tested in CAD with [thing:3488452](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3488452) which should fit). Changed internal fan to 40x40x20mm and added a spot for a 40mm intake fan. Moved Pi to the corner so all ports are accessible and changed its mounting to standoffs instead of posts.

Also included front feet to print out that fit under the extrusion if you didn't have any (like me).

Thanks to Mvieleers for the excellent design.

Products that I used (affiliate links)
SKR 1.3 w/ TMC2208 drivers (~$38): [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160)
or SKR 1.3 board ($22): [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160)
MOSFET ($12 for 2, only used 1): [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160)
TMC2208 drivers ($22 for 5): http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cbGvRtw0
LM2596 buck converter ($0.69): http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/9CDnpkc
Heatsinks for the Pi, SKR, and stepper drivers ($6): [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160)
Noctua NF-A4x20 5V fan ($15): [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160)

Alternate sources:
MOSFET (~$3): http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/caKv4TYM
TMC2208 drivers ($19 for 5): [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDP8XBS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07WDP8XBS&linkId=d998bcfbb403c004847d3248d1cdb160)


Edit 6/2/2019: added a version Box_Left_4010.stl that fits the stock 10mm-thick 40mm case fan.

Edit 8/12/2019: added a version with thinner walls 2mm instead of 4mm as suggested by user mellda (Box_Left-thin.stl, Box_Right-thin.stl). Currently untested but should work fine and save some time printing.

Edit 4/11/2021: noticed that Thingiverse messed up the URLs and it doesn't seem to let me fix them

Edit 6/17/2021: added a version Box_Left_4010-thin.stl for the stock 10mm thickness fan and 2mm thick walls

Edit 6/19/2021: fixed some holes in the thinned out versions (v2)

Edit 6/21/2021: fixed ears on the thinned out cases (Box_Left-thin_v3 for 20mm thick fan, Box_Left-4010-thin_v3 for 10mm thick fan)

Ender 3 SKR 1.3 case w/ MOSFET, buck converter, and y-damper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3444529.

Needed a "smart button" to easily turn on/off some lights via Home Assistant, and I had this arcade button left over from a Google AIY Raspberry Pi voice kit. The hole diameter is 28 mm, so it should fit regular sized arcade buttons. Designed to fit a Lolin V3 ESP8266 board.

These are the ESP8266 boards that I used:
[AliExpress.com Product - New Wireless module CH340 NodeMcu V3 ESP8266](http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cGhlYGou) (affiliate link)

Button that should work (haven't purchased one to test yet):
https://amzn.to/2H8OC1S

If I get around to it, I would probably redesign it to have threads, so it would screw together. Right now, you either need to have short cables or hot glue/sugru/super glue.

2/25/19: added a v2 version with threads, edit: added a v2b bottom part that has a small standoff to make inserting the USB cable easier

3/4/19: added a v3 bottom that is easier to line-up when screwed together, and it has a cutout on the bottom so you can use a coin to turn it

ESP8266 Arcade Button

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3875040.

Quick and dirty remix of this Alexa wall plate adapter. All credit goes to bkahan, I just measured my wall plate and made it the right size. Feel free to use this as a reference to fix the original thing and I can delete this one if you want. Tested on an Insignia USB outlet and a standard GFCI outlet and it fits. Added holes so you can run USB through the bottom if you have a USB outlet like mine.

Also obligatory warning to use this thing at your own risk. Take the necessary precautions when working on power outlets, and of course there is a risk when using 3D printed plastic compared to the UL listed, self-extinguishing faceplates that you can buy at the store.

Amazon Echo Dot Outlet Mount (Remix)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4862208.

Remix of [this cup holder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1667376) and this Miata phone holder from GrabCad: https://grabcad.com/library/na-mazda-miata-cup-holder-cell-phone-mod-1

I don't have the OEM ashtray that the GrabCad phone holder was made for, so I remixed these two together to use the clips for the cupholder design to secure the phone holder.

Designed for a Pixel 4 XL with this Spigen case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TDSTZXL/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07TDSTZXL&linkId=ab14754eee2866297960ee07586a4e9e (affiliate link) but I included the STEP file so you can modify it to fit whatever phone you have. The Pixel 4 XL with case is approximately 80mm x 165mm.

The holder can be rotated so the charging port is at the front or the back: just move the two clips to the other set of holes.

Pixel 4 XL NA Miata Phone Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4293904.

I'm upgrading my PowerSpec Ultra 3D to get rid of the proprietary board and to upgrade to silent stepper drivers. The stock, closed-source firmware is also missing a lot of features like basic PWM fan control, z-offset, PID tuning, etc. And the WiFi board stops working if you update to the latest FlashForge Dreamer firmware. This may work with other FlashForge Dreamer clones from Qidi, CTC, Dremel, Wanhao, etc. with modification. I'm not sure if anything will fit the newer PowerSpec Ultra 2.0 3D printer.

<h1>Parts:</h1> <i>(affiliate links)</i>
<ul>
<li>SKR 1.3 board and 5x TMC2208 drivers: <a href=https://amzn.to/34Ujtcq>https://amzn.to/34Ujtcq</a></li>
<li>or SKR 1.4 board and 4x TMC2208 drivers: <a href=https://amzn.to/3cV4GRG>https://amzn.to/3cV4GRG</a></li>
<li>2x M3 Thermistors: <a href=https://amzn.to/2XXr7l6>https://amzn.to/2XXr7l6</a></li>
<li>2x MK10 heater blocks: <a href=https://amzn.to/3cDMeN9>https://amzn.to/3cDMeN9</a></li>
<li>10 pack JST 2-pin connectors: <a href=https://amzn.to/2zJELhn>https://amzn.to/2zJELhn</a></li>
<li>2 pack LM2596 buck converter: <a href=https://amzn.to/3daVhFP>https://amzn.to/3daVhFP</a></li>
<li>4 channel relay board: <a href=https://amzn.to/3d3ncHF>https://amzn.to/3d3ncHF</a></li>
<li>MOSFET: <a href=https://amzn.to/2NkYc3L>https://amzn.to/2NkYc3L</a> (optional, in case you want to use another 24V power supply instead of upgrading, 2 pack, only need 1)</li>
</ul>

Edit: switched to a SKR 1.4 Turbo because it was only $1 more than the 1.3 (but with 4 drivers instead of 5).

<h1>LCD:</h1>
Switched from the color touchscreen from the original Ultra to a 12864 LCD from an Ender 3. Note that other 12864 LCD boards may have a slightly different layout. I had to drill a hole in the Ultra's case for the encoder shaft to fit through.

I included two files: "12864 LCD for PowerSpec flush.stl" for the screen fitting flush against the case and "12864 LCD for PowerSpec inset.stl" where the screen is 4mm inset from the case because I found that the encoder stuck out on the PCB too much. I would recommend printing the inset one for the PowerSpec Ultra 3D and use the flush model if you want to modify it for other 3D printers.

<h1>Motherboard:</h1>
Switched from the FlashForge DriverBoard Rev F to a SKR 1.3. Print out four "PowerSpec_Ultra_to_SKR_StandOffs.stl" and use the original M3 screws to screw the printed adapter to the original standoffs. I put some electrical tape on the head to make sure it doesn't short anything on the bottom of the SKR. Then secure the SKR to the new wider standoffs. This should also fit other MKS Gen L and some SKR boards that use 101.85 mm x 76.10 mounting holes. I recommend screwing in the screws before you install it in order to make the threads.

<h1>Pi/Relays/Buck converter</h1>
I added a file "PowerSpec_Ultra_pi_mount.stl" which mounts to the existing standoffs that were used for the CoreBoard. It allows you to mount a Raspberry Pi (tested with a 3B), LM2596 buck converter, and 4 channel relay board <strike>(currently not tested, but I will update when it arrives)</strike>. The bracket lets the Pi's network port sit flush against the cutout for the USB Type-B port. The Pi's USB ports are blocked, but I use the GPIO pins on the Pi to connect to the SKR board, and I wired the buck converter to the test pads on the bottom of the Pi for power. You can cut out the side of the case with a Dremel or just use the bracket as a reference for your own design if you need access to all of the ports on the Pi.

Edit: added "PowerSpec_Ultra_pi_mount_v2.stl" which should fit the 4 channel relay properly (65mm x 45mm mounting holes). I also added "5mm_Standoff_for_Relay_Module.stl" to lift the relay board away from the screws that hold in the bracket.

<h1>Hardware things to note:</h1>
<ul><li>Had to change from thermocouples to thermistors (which mandated different heater blocks as well, since FlashForge uses M4 threads for the thermocouple instead of M3 that most thermistors use). <strike>Someone mentioned that you could use the M3 thermistor instead of the grub screw on the stock heater block, but that seemed like a bad idea.</strike> 
 Edit: the grub screw is M4 and on the bottom of the block, so it wouldn't work anyway. (unless they meant the M4 grubs screw above the heater block that holds in the throat which would probably be too inaccurate).</li>
<li>With the above heater blocks that I ordered, I had to widen the hole for the heater cartridge with a 1/4" drill bit, the original diameter was slightly too small. They're also not mirrored, so one had to be upside down, so make sure to screw in the grub screw for the one that would be blocked by the cooling bar assembly.</li>
<li>I also found this M4 thermistor connector that you might be able to use if you don't want to change the heater blocks and if you have a thermistor that fits in it: <a href=https://www.ebay.com/itm/M3-M4-Thermistor-Hot-End-Screw-Type-Thermistors-For-3D-Printe/392200661436>https://www.ebay.com/itm/M3-M4-Thermistor-Hot-End-Screw-Type-Thermistors-For-3D-Printe/392200661436</a></li>
<li>The heated bed thermistor wiring is white (signal), green (ground), yellow (ground), blue (5V) and is just a standard 100K thermistor, so I just used white/green.</li>
<li>The end-stops are red, black, green, black, but I just used red/black for signal/ground.</li>
<li>EX1/EX2 on the FlashForge board are green (ground), orange (24V), black (ground), red (24V) - green/orange are for the heater cartridge and the red/black are for the hotend fan</li>
<li>The motherboard cooling fan's positive/negative on the 2-pin JST were wired backwards from what the SKR uses. The same goes for the orange/green JST connector for the part cooling fan. I would recommend buying a pack of 2-pin JST connectors to use with the fans and end-stops.</li>
<li>I had to set MAX_BED_POWER 215 in Marlin otherwise bed heating would fail. Apparently this is due to the printer's underpowered PSU/low resistance bed, and it is recommended to upgrade to a 450W or higher. Edit: I ended up just using a spare 350W 24V power supply and a MOSFET. Previously, heating would fail if I tried to heat the extruder and bed at the same time, and the bed would struggle to get higher than 60C. Not sure how the stock firmware manages to do it, since I used to be able to do 100C without any issue.</li>
<li>I inverted the direction on the right extruder in Marlin. Also, I had previously swapped the red/yellow wires on the stepper motors on X/Y/Z to invert their direction using hardware instead of software (when I just used the stock board and TMC2208s in standalone mode), so you might have to invert these in software.</li>

</ul>

PowerSpec Ultra SKR Upgrade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3945531.

Made this thing to put an Amazon Echo Dot (3rd Generation) on my old Staples shelf system ("ClosetMaid Shelftrack Elite Bookshelf Kit").

The slots for the shelf are approximately 18.91 mm x 3.25 mm and spaced 6.91 mm apart, so maybe it will fit other shelf systems.

Edit 10/30/19: fixed a random fillet

Echo Dot 3rd Gen Shelf Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3941427.

Made this thing to put a Google Home Mini on my old Staples shelf system ("ClosetMaid Shelftrack Elite Bookshelf Kit"). Kind of flimsy due to the small size, but it was a quick design/print. Of course, this is intended for the old Google Home Mini and not the new Nest Mini that can already be wall-mounted.

The slots for the shelf are approximately 18.91 mm x 3.25 mm and spaced 6.91 mm apart, so maybe it will fit other shelf systems.

Edit 10/31/19: added a stronger version that is only one piece.

Google Home Mini Shelf Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4430478.

Remixed this excellent design by Sarek27 because the original was a little bit too tight of a fit for my printer/Joy-Cons. It's a simple Joy-Con holder so they don't knock around when in transit which prevents them from scratching each other or draining the battery.

Changes:
<ul>
<li>Adjusted the size of the rails so the Joy-Cons will have a looser fit</li>
<li>Made the case and rails a bit taller so I could include detents at the top of the Joy-Con rails that lock them in place using the Joy-Con latches. This might make it hard to unlock them if you have fat fingers, but it prevents them from sliding around when in storage (without needing to make the rails too tight).</li>
<li>Changed from disc magnets to 4mm cube magnets (I used Buckycubes)</li>
<li>Removed Switch logo because I was too lazy to move it up vertically so it would be centered</li>
</ul>

Included three versions:
<ul>
<li>joycon-case_bottom_taller-nohole.stl regular M3 nut (pause at layer and drop in)</li>
<li>joycon-case_bottom_taller-hole.stl: regular M3 nut (drop in after printing)</li>
<li>joycon-case_bottom_taller-tnuthole.stl: fits a M3 T nut (made for 2020 extrusion) because I had a lot more of the than regular nuts. Fits this style T nut: <a href=https://amzn.to/2MBBX9e>https://amzn.to/2MBBX9e</a> (affiliate link)</li>
</ul>

The top (joycon-case_cover.stl) wasn't modified except for changing from disc magnets to cube magnets. There was an error in the mesh when I modified it that makes it look like one of the holes is filled, but it prints fine when sliced.

I used M3-.5 x 22 mm Metric Socket Head Cap Screw from Home Depot to secure the hinge: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M3-5-x-22-mm-Metric-Socket-Head-Cap-Screw-3-Pack-844488/204283591

Joy Con box with magnetic cover (REMIX)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867083.

Remixed this remix of a Raspberry Pi Zero USB dongle for GPIO pin access and heatsink. The main addition are two stand-offs for USB headers that I found on AliExpress (10 pcs for ~$3, see diagram). I had to lengthen the design by 3mm to fit this (and left out the camera connector to help sturdy the connector and because I don't have a camera ribbon cable for the Pi Zero). Designed for the Pi Zero W, since the CPU is moved slightly compared to the non-W Zero. OpenSCAD files are included (please excuse the less than elegant edits, I'm not good with computer). I used M2.5x8 screws to secure the Pi and some tiny laptop metric screws for the USB header (M2x3 I think).

4/20/18: Added STL/SCAD files for Raspberry Pi Zero 1.3 (non-W version with camera connector).

These are the USB headers that I used:
[AliExpress.com Product - 10 pcs USB Male Connectors to DIP Adapter Plate Converter 4 Pin for 2.54mm PCB Board](http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qHvfPHm) (affiliate link)

Raspberry Pi Zero USB Dongle Case Modified Again

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2869900.

Remixed this remix in order to fit my 40/41mm Zenni lenses (SKU 450014) as well as to make it fit over the recent Gear VR lens adapter mod.

Designed to fit over this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2837804 (based on v3.2).

Mirror the design horizontally and print for the right eye. I had to make a shim for the edges with a little bit of electrical tape for it to fit snugly, but this may vary based on your printer. Printed following the original guidelines of flat side down, with supports (for >46 degrees), and 2 shells.

Printed and tested, and it works well for me with my -6.00 prescription lenses.

Edit 8/21/19: user Mackshot says that this also works for the Vive Pro and HP Reverb!

<b>Edit: 4/23/20: ended up switching to this thing from im_a_bus_yo</b>: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920352/comments by extruding it a bit further to fit over the Gear VR lenses
It also works with the 40mm adapter from Hooi:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3777572

The file is named "vive_gearVR_adapter_43mm.stl". All credit goes to Hooi. It seems like Thingiverse doesn't let you attach flies to comments anymore. I would have posted it as a comment otherwise.

HTC Vive VR Optics Remix for Gear VR lens mod

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3579237.

Modified this stand to fit my Baofeng UV-5R, since it was a little bit wider (about 54.5mm) than the UV-5RA. It's a tight fit, but it doesn't fall over if you have a long antenna. Included STEP file because there's probably a lot of different UV-5R models with slight differences.

BaoFeng UV-5R Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3437706.

Simple remix to mount this filament sensor to an Ender 3 (affiliate link):
http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b9Ef3TZQ

I just used a 30mm M3 bolt to attach it. Print standing up without supports.

3/24/19: added a v2 model with a single mounting hole which allows it to pivot.
5/5/19: added a v3 model that allows the cable to face down (should print fine standing up)

Filament Sensor Mount for Ender 3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2844928.

I had an ARRIS SURFboard SB6183 cable modem and it would constantly lose connection and require power cycling to fix. I took a Dremel tool to the case and put a small fan on it, and the problem was solved. 

I upgraded to a SB8200  (AKA CM8200) and wanted a solution that looked a bit better, so I designed this thing to replace the side of the case and be able to mount a PC fan to the modem. Used M3x8 screws. This also fits the SB6121 and other modems with a similar design. It does not fit my original SB6183 (different shape and the heatsink is on the other side).

Took 12V power from the other side of the board.

6/21/18: Fixed an error with the feet, an edge that didn't line up properly, and added a 120mm version.

[ARRIS SURFboard SB8200 DOCSIS 3.1 on Amazon](https://amzn.to/2Hf79vt) (affiliate link)

ARRIS SURFboard Cable Modem Fan Mod

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3404563.

Lowes had a DeWalt 68-piece screwdriver kit on sale for $7.49. https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-68-Piece-Screwdriver-Bit-Set/1000086083

Simple remix of these two things to mount the bits holder from DeWalt kits onto a standard pegboard. 

DeWalt Bits Pegboard Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4777959.

Simple remix of this hanger to fit a 3rd generation Honda CR-V (may fit other vehicles).

Please tip the original designer and understand all safety concerns (use at your own risk).

Car Seat Headrest Hanger for Honda CRV

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4603594.

Remixed this X-ACTO cap to fit my type B "No. 2" aluminum handle (model X3002) with a #18 chiseling blade. The handle/blade that this cap is designed for is pictured on the right and is a bit bigger than the standard No. 1 handle. The cap that comes included with the No. 2 handle isn't big enough to cover the #18 blade.

X-ACTO's list of blades/handle compatibility: https://www.bciimage.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/X-ACTO-KNIFE_BLADE-MATRIX.pdf

The #18 blades I use (Amazon affiliate link): https://amzn.to/2RRtVeY
X-ACTO #2 handle: https://amzn.to/3mJy6b2

This blade/handle combo is great for removing prints from the bed.

X-ACTO X3002 #2 handle and #18 blade cap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4657320.

Made this to replace a missing plastic piece on an old TV mount from Best Buy. The piece is marked as [05] in the diagram and clamps on the metal tubes. I used a 1/4 in.-20 x 3/4 in. Hex Button Head Stainless Steel Socket Cap Screw (SKU # 753396) and a zinc nut (SKU # 655414) from Home Depot. The nut is a tight fit, and I used a vise to fit it in.

I only replaced one set of clamps. I would recommend testing the TV mount with a dummy weight like a sandbag if you're unsure about this part. Use at your own risk.

Tags: SANUS SYSTEMS Milestone AV Simplicity SLF3 6903-002006

Simplicity TV Mount Clamp

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4587068.

Designed this cover to fit over the adjustable slots of my bidet that the bolts go through.

Previously, it would be difficult/gross to clean and require removing the seat cover and bidet otherwise gunk would build up.

Link to the bidet that I use (Luxe Bidet Neo 320): https://amzn.to/3lPqzqH (affiliate link)

But it looks like it would fit other models from Luxe Bidet like the 110, 120, and 185 (not tested).

Luxe Bidet Neo Bolt Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3478520.

Quick remix to hold this 4 piece socket adapter set from Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-high-visibility-socket-adapter-set-62851.html (1x 1/4" drive, 2x 3/8", and 1x 1/2").

Socket Adapter holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3069030.

Remix for the LoLin V3 ESP8266 (NODEMCU) board with standoffs and cutouts for the pins.

Edit: also added a thinner version where the pins stick out and the standoffs are on the other side.

These are the ESP8266 boards that I used:
[AliExpress.com Product - New Wireless module CH340 NodeMcu V3 ESP8266 $2.38](http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cGhlYGou) (affiliate link)

Amazon: [2pcs NodeMcu Lua V3 Development Board ESP-12E CH340G $8.99](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YPS666/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B071YPS666&linkId=1af8ade28484de6a6527a18795edf969)

NODEMCU LoLin V3 ESP8266 Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2916303.

Followed the advice from [this thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2095862) for a PWM fan speed controller and mount.

I purchased a different PWM controller and have a different printer, so I designed this for its power switch and potentiometer. I wired it to the stock blower fan, but you could also add a separate fan if you wanted. It comes with a three-way switch, but I only needed on/off.

This fits on the right side of the printer below the SD card/USB port and uses an existing screw to keep it in place. The switch was a tight fit, and I had to use a vise to press fit it.

Link to the PWM controller on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10V12V24V30V-120W-PWM-500HZ-Adjustable-Volt-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-CCM2-Overload-short-Circuit-Protection/32795025535.html

I mounted the controller board to the bottom alongside the other components with a simple bracket (that also holds an upgraded Trigorilla MOSFET based on [this thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2219235)).

PowerSpec Ultra PWM Fan Switch/Speed Controller

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3504036.

I printed out a Hero Me Gen2, and the old camera mount (that clipped on) would stop the x-axis endstop from activating. I made this remix to simply attach the camera to the screws behind the QR code sticker on the Ender 3. Had to buy some M3 x 45mm screws from Home Depot for $1.24, since the stock screws were too short. I also needed 2 washers on each screw because the new ones were slightly too long.

This is just a replacement arm, print out the original's camera parts to hold the actual camera board.

Bonus: if you have an extra stepper motor damper, you can use it on the camera.

3/21/19: added a flipped model in case you want the camera slightly higher up rather than lower.

Ender 3 Pi Camera Mount for Stepper Motor

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3515835.

Remixed this by remaking it in Fusion 360 and got rid of the unneeded screw holes that were left over from the original. I also cleaned up the geometry in the process. Thanks to intmanofawesome, CHEP (Elproducts), builditfull, DrStreet, and the other remixers of this thing.

This one is extended so the filament spool won't hit the x-axis.

Included STEP file so others can easily modify this to fit their needs (angle, extend it more, etc.).

Ender 3 Side Spool Holder Extended (cleaned up & removed holes)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3352266.

This is a work in progress for those of us who use Sonoff Basics combined with regular light switches to make it into a cheap smart WiFI switch. Here is a video that explains it: https://youtu.be/ab472a40-co?t=369 Basically, you're wiring your regular light switch to the low-voltage GPIO on the Sonoff. Then the light switch controls the relay on the Sonoff which controls the lights.

I printed out the model and it fits my Sonoff Basic perfectly. I know that there are multiple revisions. This one was designed for "Sonoff Basic R2 V1.0" but looks like it would work with the newer version. I haven't tested whether it fits well in an electrical box yet, but I don't see why not.

Please take the necessary precautions when working with high voltage, and use this thing at your own risk.

Link to buy Sonoff Basics on Amazon (affiliate link): https://amzn.to/2SMushj

Edit 1/29/19: I put it in a single-gang junction box and it fits. Had to trim down the built-in button, but that's it. Also, make sure that the ground wire isn't going to short anything out.

Sonoff Basic Decora Light Switch Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987327.

Designed to fit these parts (via AliExpress, affiliate links):
[New Wireless module CH340 NodeMcu V3 Lua WIFI Internet of Things development board based ESP8266 $2.38](http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cGhlYGou)
[10PCS HC-SR501 Adjust Infrared IR Pyroelectric Infrared PIR module Motion Sensor Detector Module $9.38](http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cURc8VSC)

Amazon: [2pcs NodeMcu Lua V3 Development Board ESP-12E CH340G $8.99](https://amzn.to/3iLYsX4)

While everything fit perfectly, I was not able to get it to work properly. I think there was too much radio interference between the ESP8266 and the PIR sensor.

1/28/19: added STEP files and user mkolar got it to work!

Here is a forum post discussing ways to reduce interference: https://www.letscontrolit.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=671

NodeMCU ESP8266 PIR Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4374534.

Simple stand to store a TS80 soldering iron vertically. Designed to be printed in TPU or some other flexible filament, so it will be a tight fit. Included STEP file in case you want to try making one with looser tolerances.

TS80 Soldering Iron Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4157828.

Remix of [this excellent mount made by ElmoC](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4108274). The original one (for my use case) could have used some more angle to tilt it away from a wall, and I used a less aggressive angle to adjust for the house's siding, so it would tilt the camera up a small bit.

I only changed it to a 25 degree angle and 5 degree tilt (instead of ~7.8 degrees) and I removed the bottom lip.

Amcrest AD110 Doorbell Siding Mount 25 degree remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4496564.

Simple holder for Arm & Hammer Fridge-N-Freezer baking soda pack to hang on a vertical separator in my GE chest freezer. Mine just has a vertical divider (not a basket) that this clips onto.

Old General Electric 5 cubic foot model FCM5HDMAWH circa 2001

Chest Freezer Baking Soda Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3055206.

Accidentally fried a LED module, so I remixed this clock for 7 modules instead of 8, and now it also was printable in 1 part for me.

Print facing down. I made the first layer smaller (0.2mm) because the original size was too thick and the LEDs weren't visible even at the max brightness. Now it's visible even on the lowest intensity.

The LED segments fit snugly inside. I didn't have any spare Wemos D1 Mini boards, so I just used a LoLin v3 and glued it in the back. I removed the pin headers from the LED modules and soldered directly to the back of the board.

Original: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867294
8 panel extended remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2951932

ESP8266 LED Clock 7 Module Version

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168775.

Made this a while ago for a small project that uses a Teensy 2.0 board and an  <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063678K/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00063678K&linkId=16dccbbc5254008a26dab6b36e9b091b">M-Audio foot pedal (Amazon)</a>, so I can use it for push-to-talk in games or on Discord. The foot pedal just uses a standard 1/4" jack and acts as a digital switch on the Teensy board which then sends a joystick button press when it's held down. These are the 1/4" jacks I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063678K/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=poptartingcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00063678K&linkId=16dccbbc5254008a26dab6b36e9b091b The Teensy 2.0 has 25 digital inputs so you could easily make a larger box with more inputs.

I found that a lot of the cheap USB foot pedals on Amazon wouldn't work the way I wanted. The one I bought would only do a single key press when held down.

Teensy 2.0 case with 1/4" Jack for Foot Pedal

Took this filament sensor mount and remixed it for my needs and combined many of the other mods.


Increased clearance between 608 bearing and switch so it doesn't get triggered when no filament is entered
Added hole for zip tie from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4813860
Added clip from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3449930
Moved filament channel closer to the frame so it enters the extruder straighter
Made the switch hole a bit tighter of a fit
Made the key a tighter fit
Made the holder for the bearing a tighter fit (increased OD slightly to prevent wobble)

Got it perfect based on my Ender 3 (regular) and the switches I used.

The roller switches I used were this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283228402439 (6 pc TEMCo Micro Limit Switch Roller Arm Subminiature SPDT Snap Action LOT)

The bearing is a regular 608-2RS bearing.

Remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3357097

Ender3_Filament_Guide_and_Sensor_v4.stl

Made a remix of this GPS case for an Acxico NEO 8M (UBLOX NEO-M8N) that I bought from Amazon (affiliate link): https://amzn.to/2Yy3ceB

Remixed from this model from user doppiozero on thingiverse for a NEO 6M: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805983


The case has openings for the microUSB port, serial pins, and SMA connector. Uses 2x M3x12mm screws to secure.

NEO-8M M8N GPS Case

Neo8M-Top_v2.stl

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Ender 3 SKR 1.3 case w/ MOSFET, buck converter, and y-damper

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Google Home Mini Shelf Mount

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Raspberry Pi Zero USB Dongle Case Modified Again

HTC Vive VR Optics Remix for Gear VR lens mod

BaoFeng UV-5R Stand

Filament Sensor Mount for Ender 3

ARRIS SURFboard Cable Modem Fan Mod

DeWalt Bits Pegboard Adapter

Car Seat Headrest Hanger for Honda CRV

X-ACTO X3002 #2 handle and #18 blade cap

Simplicity TV Mount Clamp

Luxe Bidet Neo Bolt Cover

Socket Adapter holder

NODEMCU LoLin V3 ESP8266 Case

PowerSpec Ultra PWM Fan Switch/Speed Controller

Ender 3 Pi Camera Mount for Stepper Motor

Ender 3 Side Spool Holder Extended (cleaned up & removed holes)

Sonoff Basic Decora Light Switch Adapter

NodeMCU ESP8266 PIR Case

TS80 Soldering Iron Stand

Amcrest AD110 Doorbell Siding Mount 25 degree remix

Chest Freezer Baking Soda Holder

ESP8266 LED Clock 7 Module Version

Teensy 2.0 case with 1/4" Jack for Foot Pedal

Ender 3 Filament runout sensor super duper remix

NEO-8M M8N GPS Case