Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2396310.

This is modeled after a tool that I saw in an old 1960's electronic hobbyist magazine the other day, with a few slight improvements. Component lead bending tools are nothing new on here, but this adds a level of precision to your bends. Simply place the points of the caliper in the two holes in to which you are going to install your component, place the part in the middle of the gap on top and bend the leads around the edges. For extra precision you can install a screw in the hole on top of the slide. Then, you can tighten down the slide so it can't move while you bend your leads. No more guessing how far apart you need to bend the legs of your resistors or any other axial leaded discreet component. 

Component Lead Bender Caliper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4342635.

One of the ears on the battery cover of my Amarox Wireless BBQ Meat Thermometer broke off, so I whipped up a model in FreeCAD and voila. This is an older model than what is currently available on Amazon, but someone out there might have this same model. 

Print Advice:
I suggest printing this in the orientation presented. Yes, it will require extensive supports, but it is necessary for strength so that the tabs don't break when flexed. Also, due to the small footprint in this orientation, I recommend a brim of 7mm. I printed it in PLA, but due to the fact that it will be near a barbecue grill, you might want to opt for ABS, PETG or even PLA+ might work better.



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**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [Newest] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me. **If you print this, it would really help if you'd post a 'make' so that others could find this model**.* 


Amarox Wireless BBQ Meat Thermometer Battery Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935427.

A friend of mine works for Walmart and, over the years, has received several "associate appreciation" pins. He asked me if I could print him a display for them and drew up a quick sketch of what he wanted. 

There are two versions of the roof. One has a provision for hanging, while the other does not. You can choose whichever version you like. If you go with the hanging version, you will need to print the keyhole, as well, and then glue it flush with the roof, creating a pocket into which a screw can slide. 

The pieces are designed to slide together. The fit is snug enough so that glue should not be necessary, but you can of course glue it if you'd like. 

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*Another Sketchup Model - Debunking the Myth that Sketchup is Useless in 3D Printing*

Wal*Mart Associate Appreciation Pin Display

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2153681.

My friend is a die hard Alabama Football fan, so as one of the first models I printed on my new Tevo Tarantula was this die that I designed for him in Sketchup. I have printed it three times, with this being the best print I've gotten so far. I need to print a fan shroud, I think. Anyway, I thought I'd share this with y'all. If you print it, be sure to share your photos here!

Alabama Crimson Tide Dice

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3704537.

I needed a rack in my shop where I could offer customers free bumper stickers supporting our 45th President of the United States in his bid for re-election in 2020. This is my solution. 

By the way, before I get this childish, asinine comment... POS stands for "*Point of Sale*". 

This rack is customizable, so if you don't support Trump - I guess it takes all kinds :) - you can customize it to use with any stickers you'd like. 

The rack is designed so that it works in both standing and hanging orientations. Both text plates are the same 100 x 45 x 2mm size. The upper plate also serves to hide the hanging screws. I have included a blank plate that you can use for your own text as you see fit.



**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [Newest] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me. **If you print this, it would really help if you'd post a 'make' so that others could find this model**.* 


Bumper Sticker POS Display Rack With Swappable Inserts

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2800114.

The standard equipment on the Tevo Tarantula leaves quite a bit to be desired.  I noticed that the stock x-axis motor mount was flexing when I would tension the belt, so I decided to create a more sturdy mount for that motor. I have seen a couple of versions of this here on Thingiverse, but my design is more solid and, in all probability, like most of my designs, over-engineered. 

To install this, you will need the following hardware:

8x m4 x 10mm screws (4 of which come with the standard mount)
8x m4 T-slot nuts (4 of which come with the standard mount)
4x m3 x 35mm screws
7x 4mm washers (you cannot fit a washer on one of the eight m4 screws)
4x m3 washers
2x 5mm nylon spacers (one of which is used on the standard mount)


Installation should be obvious from the CAD drawing and is similar to the standard mount with the exception of the front plate. All four m3 screws go through both halves of the mount into the stepper motor. The idler pulley is sandwiched between the two halves of the mount with a 5mm nylon spacer on either side of the pulley. The m4 screws go through the plates so that the t-slot nuts are on the inside, with washers between the screw and the plates. 

There are two "top" plates here. Version 1 is the strongest, but I found that it interfered with the mounting of the oldham coupler and the z-axis drive rod, so I modified that to version 2. You may want to print the v2 top plate if you think your rod is going to get in the way :) 

I went through four designs when modeling the top plate, so in the photos of this installed, I have not yet replaced the (intermediary) v2 plate with the (final) v2 - I simply removed the two outer mounting screws, so... go by the CAD drawing and not the actual photographs.

In the photo I've uploaded of my [test tower](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2790496), you can the vast improvements with each modification I've made. From left to right, the first tower is prior to my latest upgrades. The second tower is after installing the [no-sanding oldham coupler](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2568712) (not my design). The third tower is after installing this upgraded motor mount.

X-Axis Motor Mount, Strengthened

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4279173.

Yet another fringe case, one off product that no one may never have need for. This time we are replacing the choke rod bushing on a Yamaha YG450D generator. The original is a rubber piece, so you might could print this in TPU or other flexible material. I just used PLA and it works fine. In addition to this piece, you will need an o-ring to hold the part in place. The o-ring I used is 4mm inside diameter by 1.45mm thick. Just put the bushing in place through the mounting plate, slide the o-ring up into the groove to hold it in place and run the choke rod through the bushing. Easy peasy. 


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**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [Newest] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me. **If you print this, it would really help if you'd post a 'make' so that others could find this model**.* 



Fringe Case #3 - Yamaha YG450D Generator Choke Bushing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2189538.

I printed a model and it came out with some blobs and what one site calls zits. My piece looked identical to the photo here - https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits

A quick trip through Sketchup and I created a small barrel to print to see if I could troubleshoot the trouble. Wouldn't you know it... the barrel prints just fine! Meh... maybe someone else can use this to test their print settings....

For dimensional tests, the barrel should measure 13mm tall, 10mm around with 10.5mm diameter rings

Test Barrel

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2238612.

I like the use of the clear acrylic panels for the mainboard and for the LCD control board. I like to see my electronics (mechanical workings, too). The problem with this, though, is that the sides are exposed. That is very bad for electronics, especially when working with metal tools - forceps, Xacto knife, feeler gauges, calipers, etc... Several times I have come close to shorting out the board by a stray tool or two. My solution? A wrap around. This is designed for ease of use as well as installation. Simply remove the rear plate and slip the wrap around the hex stand-offs. The wrap is hooked on the edges so that it holds itself in place once the rear plate is reattached. The left side is left open for easy access to the SD card and there is a slot at the top (or bottom, depending on how you orient the wrap) for the control wires. 

Tevo Tarantula LCD Control Wrap-Around

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3049960.

I'm not really sure what this is called, but what it does is attaches the metal pole to a pool vacuum head, as you can see in the photo. 



**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [**Newest**] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me.*


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*Another Sketchup Model - Debunking the Myth that Sketchup is Useless in 3D Printing*

Pool Vacuum Handle Connector

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2083995.

While building a [breadboard trainer lab](https://www.instructables.com/id/Breadboard-Training-Lab/) I needed a way to mount a Texas Instruments MSP430 Launchpad development board. At the time, I didn't have 3d printer, so I built this out of wood. I have now modeled this for 3d printing. Hopefully someone else will find this useful. 

MSP430 TI Launchpad Carrier

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2497842.

Customized version of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:47956

Created with Customizer! http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=47956

This was created to allow for one standard light switch, one standard dual outlet and one outlet/USB combo unit for use with my [Outlet Junction Box](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2498123)

My Customized WALLY - Wall Plate Customizer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281737.

I have been using the [silicone molds for Egg Painter Mini posted by @ANicolai](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2673317) but I noticed that the marker hits the edge of the larger pad when it gets close to that end. To solve that problem, I trimmed the edge of the pad down at an angle with an X-acto knife and it worked much better. So... to that end, I have recreated mold_a with a built in bevel. While I was at it, I added a curve to the indention to help grip the egg better than the flat did. 

Modified Mold for EggBot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3558094.

This simple cap is designed to fit a self-inking "Paid" rubber stamp, but it should fit any small stamp measuring 22.5mm x 52.5mm. The fit is really snug, but that was what I wanted. If you want a looser fit, I'd recommend printing at either 101% or 102%.

I know that this is a simple model, but it is my first attempt at moving from my 10 year de facto default SketchUp to FreeCAD, so be nice. 



**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [Newest] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me. **If you print this, it would really help if you'd post a 'make' so that others could find this model**.* 


Cap For "Paid" Self Inking Rubber Stamp

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2222739.

I have been using the small binder clips to hold the sheet of glass down to the heatbed, but today while installing an aluminum plate, I noticed that the LPA fan duct was hitting the rear clips, thereby raising the x-axis gantry the smallest bit, throwing off the levelness. Boy, talk about a run on sentence! lol

I made these to solve that problem - only to find out that my glass is FAR from level. Anyway, these are designed with 3mm glass in mind, but you can scale them up or down to fit your particular application. I would suggest 60-100% infill for strength... they're small so the higher infill shouldn't use any negligible amount of filament.

Minimalistic Tevo Glass Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805815.

I used to use empty creamer cups to mix paints, but I use those faster than we can drink coffee, so... here is my quick and easy solution. Depending on your settings, you can print half a dozen at a time in 20 to 30 minutes or so. 

The dimensions of the cup as posted are 10mm at the base, 15mm tall, and 15mm at the rim, with a 1.2mm wall. I included a scale model of a typical 2 oz. Plaid Apple Barrel / Folk Art acrylic paint bottle for size comparison... I was fresh out of bananas :)

Quick and Easy Paint Cup

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2998920.

We recently built a *Crash Bandicoot* Micro Blocks model kit, only to find that there was no base plate on which he could stand. That makes Crash more than a little unsteady on his feet. So what's a maker to do? I fired up **SketchUp** (yes, that's right.. SketchUp) and whipped up a quick 10x10 base plate for our hero to rest his weary legs. 

This should be compatible with all of the micro-Lego block kits including MicroBlocks, NanoBlocks, Diamond Blocks and LOZ. 

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*Another Sketchup Model - Debunking the Myth that Sketchup is Useless in 3D Printing*

10x10 Base Plate for Micro / Nano / Diamond / LOZ Blocks

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419300.

I printed KGeorge's original pill box and, while I got it to work, I thought it could use a few... enhancements.

For starters, and most obviously, I have made it double the width. With the original, I could only fit three tablets. Having been used to using an old Anacin tin, I needed more storage!

Next, I resized both pieces to allow for clearances where the two halves meshed. In the original, I found that I had to size the bottom half up by 102% to allow the top to even think about sliding on. 

Third, I resized the magnet holes. Once again, I added the necessary clearances, but I resized them to fit the 4mm x 2mm magnets that I had in stock. 

Finally, and this will probably only apply to me, but I cut two recesses into the bottom to allow for two additional magnets. The purpose of this is this... I carry a front pocket wallet with magnetic closure. My old Anacin tin, being metal, would stick to that when I put them both in the same pocket. I wanted this pill box to be able to do the same thing, so... hence the additional magnets. Most people will leave those out and it won't affect anything one way or the other. 




**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [**Newest**] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me.*


---
*Another Sketchup Model - Debunking the Myth that Sketchup is Useless in 3D Printing*



Pill Box with Magnets - Enlarged

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2189603.

Do you have an Omnibot 2000 robot - http://www.robotsandcomputers.com/robots/omnibot2k.htm - whose arm is just hanging limp at his side? More than likely, the problem is a broken arm joint. You can see where this common-failure part breaks in the second and third photos. I glued mine back together long enough to make a silicone mold from which I then cast a functional, albeit ugly, replacement years ago. Now that I have a 3D printer... why not use it for something useful? 

This replacement is identical to the original with one exception - the top part is designed with more material to aide in strength. In the photos, I guess I should point out that the purple piece is the printed replacement whereas the grey piece is the original.

This is an impossible piece to locate and as far as I know, there are no other sources for either the joint itself or a 3D model. I am offering this to the public for the time being at no cost, but I reserve the right to pull this from the marketplace at any time. You are free to print this for your own use, but the sell of the file or the finished piece is strictly forbidden. 

If you do find this model helpful, a tip would be greatly appreciated!

Omnibot 2000 Arm Joint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3741032.

This is a simple pole mount for an AcuRite 01525 Personal Weather Station. One end is shoved up the sensor's hole... while the other end slips over the pipe's shaft. ;)

I believe the metal pipe I am using is 1-1/2" OD.I have included holes for use with the screws supplied with the station to secure it to the mount. There is also a hole in the lower portion for use with a 5mm screw to help secure the mount to the pole. 

I suggest using PETG since this will need to survive the heat and the cold; dry spells and rainy seasons; fire and ice... well, maybe not that last one. 



**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [Newest] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me. **If you print this, it would really help if you'd post a 'make' so that others could find this model**.* 

AcuRite 01525 Personal Weather Station Pole Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2938601.

Instead of holding my x-axis cables out of the way with a string - like I had been doing, I whipped up this quick little zip tie bracket. This fits down in the slot of your frame and is held in place with a single 4mm screw and a t-slot nut. There are two holes that allow you to run one or two zip ties over the top, or you can run one zip tie through both holes as I did in the photo. Nothing fancy, but this is a quick print that gets the job done!

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*Another Sketchup Model - Debunking the Myth that Sketchup is Useless in 3D Printing*

Zip Tie Bracket for 20mm T-Slot Frame

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4618947.

Sometimes you just need a simple test object. Maybe your printer is acting all wonky, but you don't know whether it's only on spheres, cylinders or cubes. This simple test object fills all your test object needs. Straight lines or curves? X-axis? Z-axis? Y-axis? This will solve all you test needs. It might even solve world hunger. Well... maybe not, but are you willing to risk it? 

Cylinder-Sphere-Cube Test Object

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3775096.

Summary

This is a replacement trigger for the wand used on a Craftsman pressure washer, model # 919.769020. It could possibly fit others. The original broke at the point where the trigger lock mounted. Since I have never figured out why you'd want to lock the trigger **closed** (locking it **open** I could understand) I just modeled this without that weak point. 


**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [Newest] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me. **If you print this, it would really help if you'd post a 'make' so that others could find this model**.* 




Craftsman Prerssure Washer Replacement Wand Trigger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4804440.

Dust Cover for HardDrive Docking Station
by RebelTaz

I bought [this SATA docking station on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1Q2J3Q) (model # RX303-PU3-35B by Rosewill). For less than $15, i cannot complain. It works great for both 2.5 and 3.5' drives. The only problem I had was that, with no drive in it, there is nothing to keep dust out of the connectors. And I've gt dust to spare around this place!

Anyway, this is just a simple little cover plate to keep dust out. 

In print settings, I said 100% infill, but I actually printed this with 0.4mm walls and 9999 bottom layers, thereby making infill irrelevant. I find this gives a better print that any amount of infill on prints like this. 


---
**NOTE**
*Due to either a Thingiverse bug or (more likely) shadowbanning, my models no longer show up under the [Newest] listings. If you want to see more of my models, please be sure to 'follow' me. **If you print this, it would really help if you'd post a 'make' so that others could find this model**.* 



Dust Cover for HardDrive Docking Station

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2790496.

What do you do when a 20mm cube just won't do? Why, you print the Test Tower! The Test Tower is 20mm wide by 20mm deep by 60mm tall. It features 1.2mm walls and a 1.2mm base - perfect for printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and either 0.1mm or 0.2mm layer heights. But there's more! Every Test Tower comes complete with X and Y axis designations engraved into their respective sides 0.4mm deep. 

Use the Test Tower to show off your z-wobble or missing layers. Perfect for calibration or just as a unique addition to your common test cube collection. 

Order today and you can print a second Test Tower for **FREE** ... just pay additional filament and handling costs. 

20x20x60 Test Tower

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