Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3917736.

Over the years I have accumulated many of these wall socket voltage transformers. These are handily little things that can be easily repurposed. The problem is they get all tangled in a box. This Transformer Wire Winder will keep them without tangles and prevent damage to the wire. Also, if you travel, they make it much nicer to put in your suitcase.
The arrow on the ‘face’ is something I could not resist. IMHO winding the wire always in the same direction helps preserve the wire. Also, I like the ‘face. If you do not want to see the face do not make a color change at the 3rd layer during printing.
The Winder has a PLUG SIDE and a BLANK SIDE. The 2 sides need to be epoxy glued together, which is made easy with the 3 indexing pins. Splitting the Winder into 2 parts avoided printing with supports.
The 110-volt connector is designed like a wall socket, there is an internal gradual pinch the grabs the pins.
I suggest printing at a 0.2-layer height. PLA or PETG works fine.
Also, if you want to be super organized, color-code your transformers i.e. red 5 volts, black 12 volts - use your imagination.


Transformer Wire Winder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3380839.

UPDATED 5/2/2019 - I have included more tray types and changed the names of the trays so hopefully they will be easier to understand. The trays are divided by height 16 mm or 24 mm. The 16mm size is 1/3 size and the 24mm is 1/2 size. The 'pockets' indicated the number of separate compartments in each tray. "SS" indicates the tray has sloping sides - for easy one-finger removal of small parts. I have also slightly changed the sloping sides so they work better.

If you have a different tray system than eSun these will still work. eSun is an average size spool so the trays should fit if you do scaling with your g-code slicer. Print the 16mm size and then determine how much you want to change the size.

Also, I suggest you print these at 0.35 layer height (for Prusa MK2.5) or 0.3 layer height (for Prusa MK 0.3). The quality will be very good and the print time greatly reduced.

UPDATED 2/17/2019 - to include trays with a sloping slides

This is not a true remix but and enhancement of a great thing by ElmoC #2141153. I needed more storage for small parts, and I needed easy access. Small parts in a large bin are not easy to use! The trays are categorized as 1/2 height or 1/3 height,  0,1, or 2 dividers each, and sloping sides (SS). No 'SS' in the name indicates there are straight sides.

I have updated the files on 2/17/2019. The sloping side allows you to use one finger to reach in and grab single or multiple items and slide them out without a tool.

The drawers with no dividers have a center pole to grab for easy lifting. I found the 'no divider' drawer very good for Allen wrenches and small wires (I have my spare bed thermistors stored in this tray).

The trays are make with Fusion 360 and are optimized for printing at 0.2 layer height.

Spool Drawer Divider V2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4157315.

9/1/2021 - Added 2 new files. There are two new versions of the screw. Each has a label for the type of USB connector. My tired old eyes have a tough time telling USB C and USB Micro.

3/15/2021 - Version 2
   I have added an additional version of the wire winder. Version 2 has detents along the screw and the cup. This causes a slight drag that is helpful if you want the wire to be semi-permanently wound. You can still unwind the wire if you want. The amount of drag can be adjusted by the tightness of the screw. The version 2 files are all in 3mf format and set to print PETG on a Prusa MK3 but can easily be changed to your printer and filament choice.

There are 5 sizes to accommodate all size wires. Can be used to shorten or store USB or power cords, even lamp cords. Nice for traveling. 

The design offers very nice, finished prints with no elephant foot. Short print times and 5 sizes. The sizes are labeled for diameter and height (numbers are in mm). The screws are all the same size and are easily tightened by hand or with a quarter-size coin. Tightening the screw will not pinch the wire.

The screws are ACME type and are designed to offer smooth twisting.

This makes a nice gift.


Wire Winder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2728693.

I have remixed this cyclone THINGIVERSE 1447214, to use on my CNC machine. I needed connections for standard 2.25-inch vacuum hoses a small capture container with a wide mouth.

I made the cyclone from PLA with 6 layers and 30% infill. It is overbuilt and five layers with 20% should be enough. The remaining parts where 20% and 5 layers. The PLA makes nice threads, but they need working together for a smooth fit. The mason jar threads fit perfect with the peanut butter jars on the first try.

The mason jar was a remix from CANNING JAR LIDS - THINGIVERSE 19105. I chose canning jars because they are readily available in grocery stores in durable translucent plastic. Mine comes from peanut butter jars. I have made an adaptor for small and large jars, so you can choose the size jar for your needs.

This cyclone does not attach at the base (which is an advantage) and so needs to the hanger. The hanger is printed from PETG, 5 layers 20% infill.

The vacuum part took 70 hours to print and is the only part needing supports. Printing time: cyclone part 30 hours, hanger 20 hours, jar adaptor 6 hours. It is a long print; be for me it was worth it.


Cyclone dust collector - low profile

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3635673.

This not really a remix but an addon for an already great project.

I shorted the handle and added the metric number to the top. I also included a blank top handle for those who like to guess.

To make the hex key holders you will need to go to EJ160's great thing #2630599 for the rest of the parts.

These hex key holders are first class, the hex keys fell like real professional tools.



Ultimate Allen/Hex Key Screw Labeled Handles

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858676.

The idea of this project is to keep the filament dry and dust-free for many months after it has been removed from the shipping bag. I have some filament colors and types which I seldom use, and this keeps them in perfect condition.

3-6-2019 UPDATE 
I have been using a packaged drying agent for over a year with reliable results.  See:
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BEEVDVK/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This brand has exceptionally durable bags - they have some cotton fibers in the paper, and they are easy to recondition buy putting in the microwave for 40 minutes on the defrost setting - do not use regular heat. You will notice the bags swell up during the warming because the water vapor is given off. I then keep the reconditioned bags in a Ziplock bag. I have bought some color indicator desiccant which comes in plastic bags, and this does not work well. When you warm the bags, the plastic becomes brittle, and you end up with loose desiccant.

3-4-2019 UPDATE:

The cereal containers are 21 cup size and can be found at Amazon here:

https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-LEPUSEMTE469-711717429496-Container-Everyday/dp/B00XJRMW5M/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?


UPDATE 9-15-2021 - The clear containers are no longer available I use the slight cloudy model (see above) and they are clear enough to see inside.


CLEAR CONTAINERS   --   https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Modular-Storage-Canister-1840750/dp/B00BEUDWIC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?

6-11-2018 UPDATE 

   I have noticed that eSun spools vary in width. They use the same bolted together plastic and the bolts are tight but there is a variation. Because of this I am advising against using the eSun cross bar STL files. These files have detents that are supposed to give the correct spacing for the side roller pieces. If you use eSun filament I suggest you use the standard cross bars but glue only on one side - leave the other side free to move in and out. 

Filament SyStem is now at version 2. There are no major changes, I just made the desiccant holder a little smaller to accommodate a less expensive version of the Rubbermaid 21 cup dry storage container. The version with transparent plastic is called the Zylar Container the cloudy plastic version is called “Dry Food Container.”

However, you can use any plastic dry storage contain, any size and any brand. Since I only use eSun and 3D Mars printing filaments, I do not know the sizes of other spools. 3D Mars measures 67x200mm eSun 62x200mm. If you use larger spools, then you will need a larger container in which case my 3D printed parts will work just as well. You should try to make the container as small as possible to avoid dead air space.

What is the difference? Well, the Zylar containers cost about 40% more and are not sold at discount type stores like Wal Mart. The Zylar is a better-quality plastic that is more flexible, clear, and has a see though lid. I am not sure any of these qualities are necessary for this application. They seem to be made from the same injection machine, but the less expensive version is about 5mm shorter. This may be from contraction of the plastic after molding.

The less height means that V1.0 of the Filament SyStem will not fit. So, I have made minor design changes. You can use V2.0 for the Zylar containers. There is no practical difference in the amount of descant space.

Also, with this version, I have added small detents on the crossbars that help in alignment for eSun and 3D Mars spools. The crossbars have eSun and 3D Mars added to the names. The regular crossbars are also included.

There are pictures of the filament end being placed into the hollow nut and then placed into the spool holder – I hope this explains how to use this option.



Filament Spool SyStem V2.0

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4269130.

The wet toothbrush drains on the countertop and creates a mess. This allows the drainage to be trapped preventing staining.

Oral B Vitality Tooth Brush Drain Tray

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4272774.

This a travel case and bush head protector for the Oral-b Vitality toothbrush.

I believe this will only work with the Vitality model (it does work with the old and new versions).

This case has been tested for over a year and has several advantages:

the friction fit upper and lower parts provide protection of the bush and on-off button during travel 

the fit is perfect if the alignment is correct - see picture # 2
 
the bush head is protected while charging

can be printed in a different color for different people


Oral B Vitality Toothbrush Travel Case

Oral B Vitality Tooth BrushTravel Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2769588.

Filament Spool SyStem V2 has been published. 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858676

This project was inspired by Henry Arnolds great thing #1332650 "airtight filament canister."
I made serveral modifcations mainly because the orginal Prusha M2 likes to be feed from the top.

I have inverted the Rubbermaid container and added a holder for bagged dessicant. The dead air space is small very small threfore only a small amount of dessicant is needed.

The opening for the filament is small and can be sealed when not in use. The object of the project is to creat a container that is loaded once and kept airtight until the spool is finished. You need one container for each filament spool.

You need to drill 3, 0.5 inch holes, which is best done with a special stepper drill (see attached picture). These bits are cheep at Harbor Freight.

It is best to load the dessicant bags into the holder before attaching it to the container. Also, be careful to place the spool cradle in the exact center of the 'lid.' What is the 'lid' and 'bottom' is reversed in this project since I am using the container upside down!

I have used these for 3 months and have made a few modifications along the way. The only problem I have had, is when doing a Z calibration and the extruder moves to the top of the frame, the filament will push up into the container and can slip over the edge of a full filament spool. This can be prevented by holding the filament outside the container.

The project can be printed in PETG or PLA with equal results. PLA tends to made slightly better screw threads. 

I also made my own 608 bearings using Thingiverse #2598427 by SiberK. For the
price of a jar of copper plated BB's from Walmart (about $7.00) you and your neighbors can have a life time supply of 608 bearings. Print the bearing with PLA and use the version with 5 balls.

The Rubbermaid clear container is a 21 cup size and can be bought at Amazon.com. The cloudy plastic version is cheaper and is sold at discount  stores like Walmart. The cloudy plastic version is slightly smaller and you will need to use my version 2 parts for it to work.

https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Modular-Storage-Canister-1840750/dp/B00BEUDWIC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2598427
608 bearing (4.5mm steel BB's) by SiberK is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1332650
Airtight Filament Canister by henryarnold is licensed under the Creative Commons 

Filament Spool SyStem

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4962696.

10-10-2021 I am making a test of the Oral B Pro 2 version. I do not have the toothbrush but have created it from pictures and dimensions. The test profile can be printed first to see if I have it correct.

This is a travel case for an Oral B battery operated toothbrush. Oral B does not provide any such case and simply putting it in your travel bag could result in damage or contamination.

Why a battery toothbrush? When I travel there are limited electrical outlets for the rechargeable toothbrush especially in the small bathrooms provided.

The brush heads are removed before placement in the case. There is provision for 2 brush heads. This toothbrush will work with all the Oral B toothbrush heads and all the heads will fit in this case.

This lid is fixed in place by friction fit.

Oral B Toothbrush Travel Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4602333.

4-12-2021 I have made some changes to the inside of the box to accommodate the newer version of the Firestick. The parts are listed as Version 2 (v2). There is also a test pattern that you can print to see if your version of the fire stick will fit the new openings.

This is a travel and storage case of an Amazon Firestick which turns a normal TV into a smart TV for internet access.

When traveling, this item is difficult to pack. Also, the parts if they are not kept together tend to get lost.

The USB power wire is fixed on a winder that allows you to unwind only the wire needed for connection to a power outlet.

Because of the fit, each part has a separate special compartment and a special orientation (take careful note of the photos). After the wire is wound, and placed in the case, the end needs to be placed as shown in one of the photos. See the last photo.

All the parts fit snug but not tight. 

You need two bolts M3x7 to M3x9 in size to connect the two sides of the wire winder.

You can also remove the batteries from the remote and keep them in the case.

Firestick Travel and Storage Box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4678554.

There is a version 3 of this design under thing:4930069.


The Ring surveillance camera system uses a device called a 'Bridge' to connect the lights with the router. Usually, this is mounted somewhere on a wall, which is not nice.

Ring Bridge Socket Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4972649.

This is an upgrade to the Kreg Pocket Hole jig. The Kreg device as shown is no longer sold but I am sure that many thousands were sold in the past. It does an impressive job but is cumbersome to use especially when you need to cut multiple holes.

My device will hold the jig in a perfect slide in fit and can be easily removed without tools. You can make multiple holes very quickly and accurately. The board width, length and height do not matter. Simply use a different mounting board for your needs. I am using a scrap 3/4-inch MDF.

The clamp is a Rockler Auto-Lock Track Clamp. I have made an object that will mount it to any flat surface. The Auto-Lock will then attach to my mount object and can be easily removed without tools. Other pressure type clamps will work. This just what I had around the shop.

A standard 2 1/4 shop vac hose will attach to keep the are dust free.

The objects are bolted together. You will need four 8-32 bolts and hex nuts. Two of the bolts 2.25 to 2.5 inches length and two 3/4 inches length. Twelve drywall screws.

Kreg Pocket Hole Upgrade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3301285.

See 'Spool Drawer Divider V2'   thing:3380839  -this is the updated version


This is a divider for the drawers of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2141153


The divider is thin enough that you can have 2 levels for each drawer. This is perfect for many small items like M3, M4, M5 nuts and screws etc.


there are various colors since this does not take much filament and I was using up my partial spools. Also, this will print very fast at 0.35 layers rather than the 0.20 layers. The layer detail is not needed for this project.


This may fit other eSun develped drawers.



eSun Spool Drawer Divider

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2864503.

This is a remake of alaubham 'Tap / Die Tray for 12 Piece Irwin Hansen Metric Set'. I added the small slots to make access to the parts and added a cover case. The cover was printed in PLA and the tray with PETG because that is what I had. I do not think the material makes any difference.

The 2.25" x 4.25" data-sheet is handy. I give the drill size for the metric taps. I got the information from engineering tables and rounded them. Most of us do not have the actual drills suggested so I picked something close but even the 'close' will not be something you have - just do the best you can without over boring the hole.

5-10-2021     As a request, I have made a metric and SAE cases. I have never printed these objects. They should be printed as shown.

Metric tap and die case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4397479.

This is a stand for hex keys. The handles were created by EJ160 and are available at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2630599.
I find it easier to store my handles in the open on my walls and then select the handles I need for the project and hold them in the desktop stand.
The wall holder attaches with a screw. I have made the screw slot for a standard drywall screw. The desk stands in printed in 3 parts and the legs slip into the ends.


Hex Key Handle Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4930069.

This is version 3 of a wall plug a module for the Ring Bridge. This keeps all the wires and pieces in one neat small unit that can attach to any wall outlet and still allow the other outlet to be used.

Ring Bridge Wall Plug V3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4845054.

This is a test templet for Fusion 360 and your 3D printer. When making objects with Fusion it is important to know if the nuts and bolts will fit. 
I printed this with both my MK2.5S with a 0.6 nozzle, and my MK3S with the Hemera upgrade (Bearmera), and the nuts-and-bolts fit perfectly. Your results may vary, and this is something you need to know. Also, this gives some idea as to how much clearance to allow.
The measurements are all for metric nuts and bolts M3 -M6. The holes are for exact fit bolt shafts and 0.4, 0.6 clearance. The next set of holes is for hex nuts and the final hole is for the bolt head. The M3 sometimes uses square nuts so I have included an M3 square nut hole.
I have included the Fusion 360 file so you can make variations as needed.
BTW, I did not do a color change for the lettering. I just touched the raised numbers with a felt pen.


Fusion 360 nut and bolt guide

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4596755.

This is a cover for the water cutoff valve. 

The handle is not centered on the actual valve so the cover can not be in place when the valve is closed, but this helps indicate the valve is closed and not open. It is normally open so the water in the house can be used.

Just mount the base to the wall and the cover slides over the base to cover the unsightly valve. When installing place the cover over the base so you have the correct spacing for the screw holes.

Water valve cutoff Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4396100.

PLEASE POST A MAKE

With years of rain running down the house downspouts, they shrink! They are too shore to reach the drainage pipe and water spills onto the ground.
To the rescue – the Drainpipe Extender.
I have 3 pictures:  1. Before repair 2. After repair before painting and gluing 3. Final result
This is a two-part plastic collar the fits around the end to the pipe and makes a proper connection. The object is in 2 parts for easy installation.
Gluing the parts together is best done with a construction adhesive that has polyurethane. This rather nasty ingredient will harden to a permanent bond, but before then is difficult to use. I have found the easiest solution is to paint the contact surfaces with the adhesive using a small disposable bush – I think they are known as Acid Brushes (see picture).
Paint the surfaces evenly with a thin layer and press together Unlike wood glue clamping is only needed to hold the pieces in place, they do not need a tight approximation. DO NOT wipe off the excess. The adhesive will harden to a chewing gum consistency in about 2 hours. At this point peel off the excess. Final hardening takes 2-3 days, and it is EXTREMELY hard.
I printed mine with PLA since it is in the shade. I also painted it white to match the adjoining plastic connector.

I have 2 versions 1. 45mm extension 2. 80mm extension


Down Spout Extension

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4580831.

This object will hold a Nintendo Switch so it can be used during car travel. The strap to hold the object to the car seat is: TFY Universal Car Headrest Mount Holder for Portable DVD Player

https://www.amazon.com/TFY-Universal-Headrest-Holder-Portable/dp/B00O0S97SE/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1CBDU30OZ3ZQZ&dchild=1&keywords=tfy+universal+car+headrest+mount+holder+for+portable+dvd+player&qid=1598494187&sprefix=tfy+universal+car+headrest+mount+holder+for+%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1

This object will help keep the kids happy and the parents calm on long trips

Please use my 3MF file - even if you do not have an MK3S printer at least use the support settings in the file. It will result in very easily removable supports.

Nintendo holder for car travel

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4918387.

This is a cleaner for the refillable K cups. 

The cups I use are listed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LHCCR92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Place the cup full of coffee grinds over the three cleaner blades and twist. This will remove about 95% of the coffee grinds and dump them into an empty yogurt cup (for later use in the garden).

This will avoid dumping the grands down the drain and makes cleanup much easier.

I prefer the reusable cups since i can choose the coffee I like and the is MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE.

I am including the coffee scoop I use the fill the K cups. It does not fill the cups to the rim but IMHO the coffee grinds expand when heated this allows for the expansion.



Keurig cup cleaner

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4918321.

Summary
This is a remix of two objects to make a ball bearing Polymaker spool hub. The thing files are: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3604939 & https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3652656

The SCAD ball bearing file was the 5-ball design that I made in a loose and tight fit, the spool hub was the six spoke design with a smaller inner diameter. I combined the two with Tinkercad to make the final object.

The new spool holder fits very well and runs extremely smooth.



Notes:
Print the object as presented in one file. Be sure to use 0.4 elephant compensation or the parts will all stick together.

PolyMaker Spool Hub

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4163687.

This is a snap fit box to store a Mach3 Razor. It is ideal for travel since it can hold 2 extra blades.

Mach3 Razor Travel Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3559874.

6/27/2019 - I made the clip very slightly thicker. I think it is an improvement.

The locking collar on the top of the hot end keeps the PTFE tube from slipping out. The lock is only effective when it is lifted away from the hot end. When down the tube is unlocked. The frequent ejection and retraction of the filament during printing can cause the PTFE tube to come loose if it is not locked in position.

To keep the lock working a small clip is placed between the hot end and the locking collar.


The small and easily printed part can save trouble in the future. You can buy them from Bondtech or just print your own using PET.

PTFE Lock Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3315352.

this is a remix (really just an addon for an already great project)

See "Spool Drawer Divider V2" - thing:3380839
updated version

spool drawer divider

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2958641.

This is a remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2933772 by MisterThief117.

The MisterThief did all the hard work, I just made some modifications so support material is not needed.

The changes I made were 
1. split the STL file so there was no overhange 
2. greatly decreased the overhange for the micro SD card holder.

Because there are 2 files it is easy to use different color filament, which makes it stand out.

I travel a lot and need something like this to keep my stuff organized and protected from damage. Also, if it 'stands out' I will not leave it behind.

You will need epoxy to glue the parts together. When you assemble the 2 parts put the Bottom Part down first. Cover the connecting edge with the glue, then put the activator part of the epoxy on the mating edges of the Top Part. Look directly down as you lower the Top to the Bottom and feel the indexing pins click into place. Hold firmly for 5 seconds.

The Samsung charger makes a friction fit so the Top and Bottom must make an accuate alignment. If any glue squeezes out you will nee to trim with a knife.

Good luck!  I made several and they all turned out great. Thanks Mr.Theif!


Samsung charger & Cable wrap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2277017.

This insert can not be found in the market, the fit is very nice

Ridgid Bandsaw table insert

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4518341.

9/2/2021 - I have made a small design change. The top will still too loose, so I increased the friction fit. The latest version number is 1.6. If you have printed the previous version, you need only to reprint the top part.

11/4/2020 - I have updated the clock case because it opens too easily especially when just thrown in with the clothes. I also recommend that you use five peripherals when printing as this will give a much more stable sliding fit to the case cap. the latest version is 1.5. If you question which version you have, look in the inside of the clock case bottom for the version number.

The slight recess in the top fits over the slightly protruding snooze button.



The Oregon projection travel clock is nice but there is no travel case. This is unfortunate because your clothes can press the clock buttons.

Clock Travel Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4918315.

This is a remix of two objects to make a ball bearing Polymaker spool hub. The thing files are:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3604939 & https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3652656

The SCAD ball bearing file was the 5-ball design that I made in a loose and tight fit, the spool hub was the six spoke design with a smaller inner diameter. I combined the two with Tinkercad to make the final object. 

The new spool holder fits very well and runs extremely smooth.

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4933265.

This is a Vesa mount for a Raspberry Pi case. 

The Raspberry Pi is mounted is a snap fit screwless case and then can be slid in
to a Vesa mount (100 mm). This allows the Pi to be enclosed with cooling features
before being placed in a Vesa mount. Also, the Pi can be removed and used elsewhere if needed.

The Vesa mount snap locks the Pi case in place but allows access to all the ports and gives good air flow. There are strain reliefs that, with the use of zip ties, can prevent removal of the HDMI, audio, and power plugs. A sideways removal of these plugs would cause severe damage to the Pi.

The Pi case came from Malolo's thing 3723561. Use the H20 version.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3723561

The object takes about 5 hours to print using PETG 3 perimeters 20% infill.
The built in supports need to be broken off to allow bending of the snap lever.

Vesa mounts require metric bolts, usually M4. Be sure your bolts are not too long, or you could damage your video display.

Vesa Raspberry Pi mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4596762.

This covers the pressure regulator valve. The slip-on cover is easily removed for access.

Pressure Valve Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4596744.

This covers the plumbing utility that gives access to the drain pipes.

I believe it is a code to have access to this cleanout port but the port itself is not nice looking and is often located in plain view. 

The cover base fixes to the wall and the lid slips over to cover the nasty looking pipe.

Drain Cleanout Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4012392.

This is an attachment for the Makita trim router for edge band trimming. It is designed to use with a 1/2" bit. The mounting plate allows for micro-adjustments to allow for a perfect trim. I use a bullnose router bit to avoid an edge caused by the straight bit.

For safety, the router bit is almost completely covered. There is a small opening that allows the shaving to escape.

To install, replace the router soleplate using the same screws.

If the amount of trimming is significant then I suggest you lift the motor end slightly and take several light passes before you do a final 'flush' pass.

This tool requires 2 hands to operate safely, therefore the routing object needs to be fastened down.

Please like and post a make!

Makita banding trim attachment

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2856345.

These simple to print and install parts will dress up your Prusa Bear Half Upgrade. The parts snap into place and do not need screws.

Prusa Bear rail caps

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881880.

When building with 20x40 V-Slot Linear Rail, and the project is completed, there is no way to add parts because the end of the rail is closed and a new nut can not be inserted. 

With the drop in nut any place on the rail can be accessed. The nut fits the slot but when turned it locks in position.

At first I had my doubts about making this. It is so small and it may be too weak. I was wrong on both counts. With my Prusa MK2.5, I was able to print a PLA part that was very exact and strong.

I make two versions. One uses an M4 bolt that self treads into the nut. The other has an insert area for an M3 nut. Both seem equally strong and certainly strong enough for  non structural applications.

This will only work with PLA, PETG does not print well. Also, you need to use '0.15 Optimal' setting on the 'PRINT SETTINGS' of Slic3r, perimeters is set to 7 and infill to 100%.

20x40mm Drop in Nut

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3891179.

7-15-2020 - update - some minor changes in the file and added a 3mf file that includes supports where needed and the setting for printing in PETG. Please use this file as it will make the supports VERY EASY to remove and the PETG setting gives a very nice print. If you find that very vigours use causes it to separate from the nozzle, put a small amount of polyurethane-based construction adhesive at each corner - no need to clamp.

My Ridgid vacuum nozzle scrapes the floor and is difficult to use but I like the size and shape.
I added a small clip-on base that adds wheels and makes using the vacuum more efficient and enjoyable. Slide the printed part to the back of the nozzle and clip the front for a firm attachment. The back and front of the printed part are different (the front is very slightly rounded and is marked with a small ‘F’). 


You will need 2, 608 wheel bearings. I suggest you make your own bearings with Thing:2598427 – the 5 ball design is the best.



Ridgid Vacuum Nozzle Wheels

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4874525.

change the connection sleeve to fit 2.25" vacuum systems

Festool D36 connection for 2.25" vacuum

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2810293.

I have built the Prusa i3 Bear Half  (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2562174)  
which is a Prusa i3 frame upgrade. Cutting the 20x40 to the correct length is critical to obtaining a square frame, but in actual practice such cuts are very difficult.

These shims will compensate for the minor variations in length of the 20x40 and will also soften the metal to metal joints.

these stl files were a variation of Isaac Norris nice thing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1729544) - thanks Isaac!

These are very easy and quick to print - no special setting, print several of each so you will have the selection needed for the build. I printed mine with PETG which gives just a little softness which PLA does not.

20x40 V-Slot shims

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2235318.

These are cable clips for the Prusa MK2 that fit the 8 and 10mm rods. In my option these are better than zip ties to the treaded rods.  Place the wires on the clips before placing them on the rods - it is much easier!

Prusa cable clamps

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4822452.

This is a funnel that fits paint thinner and brush cleaner cans. Normal funnels may be too large. This funnel is labeled for paint so it will not accidentally be used in the kitchen.

Paint Thinner Funnel

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3287854.

This is a wall mount for a wireless router. This router is very light and thin enough to fit behind a dresser (as in my case)

I am using this extra router as a wireless extension

I have it connect via ethernet to my main router, but it can also be used as an extension if connected via wireless

Tp-Link TL-WR940N wall mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4874513.

This is a remix of Droopas' very fine Festool D36 (diameter 36 mm) hose connector. 

I changed the end connections to fit a 2.25" standard US shop vacuum system. I only changed the connecting sleeve, the remaining objects are the same and will need to be downloaded from Droopas Thingiverse page.

The connection he devised is elegant! Very clean and workable with no restriction on the internal diameter of the hose. The retaining snap ring was printed with Polymax flexible filament.
.

Festool D36 2.25 inch hose connections

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2866095.

This is a cap for the top of the rails in the front section. I just makes the printer nicer. 

I is very easy and fast to print

Prusa Bear rail cap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2420157.

The extruder cable is the thickest and heaviest of the 3 Prusa cables and tends to sag with time. This will cause it to drag on the print bed and may loop over and catch the heater bed cable.

there are several fixes:
1. tie a string to the cable and support it from the Prusa stand cross beam
2. do the MK2S upgrade
3. print my cable fix

my solution is by far the best, IMHO. This is a final fix, and does not require removing wires or extensive rework. You just print the part, open the Rambo box (1 bolt to unscrew), cut the zip tie holding the cable at the Rambo box, slide in the support - from now on called the 'Dangle Preventer' - replace the zip tie, and place another zip tie around the cable and the Dangle Preventer*. Close up your Rambo box and you are done.

The Dangle Preventer will make you equipment look really great. Impresss your your friends when they come over to see what you got! I printed mine with PETG Black but would have prefered daisy yellow.

But wait there is more: if you print it now you can print a second one for the same cost and you will get a free subscripion to Thingiverse for 1 year!

*WARNING   ---   the Dangle Preventer is not an FDA approved medical device


Prusa Cable Support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3287725.

I developed this to mount the https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3245139 - Battery Holder

I put it inside a door, to save space and be handy

Ikea Skadis mount board

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3596785.

eSun makes a spool that can be split in half by removing two bolts. With my object, you can replace one half and have a Masterspool.

The bolts used are M6x34, you will need 2 bolts and 2 nuts to make the second spool since you will reuse the old bolts.

I suggest drilling the 2 bolt holes in the eSun spool with a 6mm bit. Although the hole is already very close to 6mm it is not exact enough for a smooth fit. Both sides of the eSun spool are the same. But the new printed side must recieve the bolt and only the eSun side NOT the new printed side can have the nut.


the masterspool dimenstions are:

Outer diameter 198mm
inner ring diameter - 102 
inner mounting hole 52.2 mm
outer flange thickness 5.6mm
internal width 46.7mm

the eSun conversion gives:
Outer diameter 200mm
inner ring diameter 102mm
inner mounting hole 52.5mm
internal width 46.7mm
outer flange thickness 5.6mm placement side  3.85mm on eSun side



eSun Masterspool

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4685458.

A star that can be hung or just place on a table. There is a small hole near the top of the star for a thread the size of a fishing filament. The hole is slightly larger on the backside than the front.

You can use scaling in the Prusa Slicer to make the star any size you want. The size in the .stl file is about right for use on a Christmas tree.

Christmas Star

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2220811.

This is a modifcation of prusa i3 y motor support by uwd888, published Jul 25, 2014 

the previous version does not fit the new Prusa i3 MK2 version from March 2017

Also this version has the advantage of not requiring the removal of the lower motor mount screw

Prusa i3 MK2 Y axis motor support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2691994.

This is a modified Original Prusa MK2 fan nozzle shroud.

The original fan nozzle did not fit well and also directed too much cooling toward the heated nozzle. This resulted in THERMAL RUNAWAY and lowering of the hot end temperature during printing.

I fixed my THERMA RUNAWAY ( and improved my PETG printing) problem by doing 3 things:
1. Using the newest firmware version 3.1.0 (Nov 2017) there is a thermal calibration for the PID. I did a calibration for 240 degrees (for my PETG filament) and a calibration of 215 degrees (for my PLA filament)  -  this calibration will help stabilize the temperature during printing
2. I changed the FILAMENT SETTINGS under the filament setting tab in Prusa Slic3r version 1.37.1 - for PETG the cooling is MAX 30% MIN 15% DISABLE FAN FOR FIRST 3 layers  - for PLA  cooling is MAX 80% MIN 75% DISABLE FAN FOR FIRST 3 layers
3. Replaced the fan nozzle with the version included here

Prusa  Original MK2 fan nozzel

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