So, a short week on design here. Still working on printing a bunch of MultiBoard stuff (I'll have one or two designs there in a bit, but that's for a bit later. Also working on cleaning up the A1 Mini Extruder head that filled itself with plastic. For that I need a work surface that I'm not going to worry about getting oil or grease on, can catch parts that are cut off or break off, and hopefully will discourage the cats in the house from knocking pieces off the surface on to the floor. It's not going to prevent that from happening , cats are after all persistent, eh? Slowing it down a bit is appreciated.
So the surface I grabbed is a 2x2, 3/4" piece of plywood that I picked up some 7 years ago and used it for building a printer on back then. It's been sitting against a wall since then, mostly, and I figured that the board would be a good working surface for now. However it doesn't have any way to keep cats from knocking things off, and I can't make use of the solution I set up for the coasters by using a piece of double-stick tape to hold the holder for them in place. This project requires a bit more flexibility.
So I really need a short wall that attaches to the side of the plywood. At some point I'm going to put this board back into storage, so I'm going to be adding a hole edge to protecta hole for carrying and hanging the board, but that can wait.
Print 2 of the 'corner' pieces for each corner you want the edge banding on for your board. Each 'corner' piece is 200 mm long end to end, and will extend beyond the corner (in the miter) by 5 mm, so you end up with a piece that covers 190 or 195 mm of an edge. Another at the next corner, etc. The length of a 24" side is 24X25.4, or 609.6 mm, and we've covered 380 of that, leaving 229.6 mm to go. Add another edge piece, and we have covered 39.6 mm. The insert pieces are then used to fit between corner pieces on an edge, so we will need 2 of them, They need to cover 19.5 mm each, add 10 mm for the miter, and we get 29.5 mm with a bit of space for clearance between parts.
I'm presuming that if you're in the US, you have a 1.5" hole saw, perhaps a paddle or Forstner bit some place, and know how to use it, so I've added a hole insert for that size hole. This is approximately a 38 mm hole so if you are doing this with metric lumber, you may find it easier to scale that up to fit a 40 mm hole, I'd say change the x and y measurements to 49.6 to give yourself a bit of clearance, though the chamfers designed in may be all that you need.
Obviously slice and dice with any decent CAD program if you need different running measurements for a side. Say for example you want to set this up on a 2'x8' panel, or 2'x4' panel. The design is intended to be printed upside down, and should not need any supports when printed that way. For the 'corners' the pieces will print diagonally on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini. I organize the corner pieces into squares just missing the miter cuts on each. If you are printing corners on a printer with a bed with over 200 mm of x and y, you may be able to turn off collision avoidance, and fit corner pieces with the surfaces of the miters together to create a total of 4 of these.
The holes for mounting are sized for #8 wood screws. Since this is plywood, (I assume this will work for one or more of the various particle and OSB panels as well, just haven't tested,) I advise drilling for those screws into the edge, rather than letting your screws split this wood. That said, I'll leave that to you. No fastening holes are provided for the hole liner. I'd advise using some variety of adhesive for that. The design includes a void at the top corner of the surfaces expected to be on the lumber, and filling that with a decent wood glue, and providing enough on mating surfaces to create a bond to the board then letting the glue cure should provide a solid connection. I'll leave it to you to decide if you want to mix in some wood dust to give the solution a bit of extra grip.
In time I may design and add cat protection wall segments to reduce the chances of one of the kitties (we have 3, one of which really enjoys knocking things off of tables etc, but all of them are subject to this tendency over time) actually having any luck clearing the pieces off the surface.
The 'lip' at the edge of the board then becomes a 4mm step, 10 mm wide, each edge chamfered down by 2 mm. The bottom edge should protrude about 2 mm below the attached board, extend out 5 mm, and has a 1 mm chamfer.