The Ultimate Customizable Lightsaber/Twinsaber (Retracting/Collapsing)

Check out these customization packs:
Rey Skywalker Lightsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Rey%20Skywalker%27s%20Lightsaber%20%28Working%20Emitter%20Blades%29-1220065 Kylo Ren Lightsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Kylo%20Ren%27s%20Lightsaber%20-1207497?source=All+Files Ronin Saber: https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Ronin%20Collapsible%20Lightsaber%20%28Customization%20Pack%29-1165101?source=All+Files Darth Maul Twinsaber: https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Darth%20Maul%27s%20Lightsaber%2FTwinsaber-1183575?source=All+Files

Introduction Most lightsaber hilts print standing up, making them prone to break along the layer lines. With my multi-part hilt design, I was able to avoid the fragility of layer lines while also allowing for customization. Tired of having the same boring lightsaber? Print a few extra parts and completely change your lightsaber into a new, iconic version. You can always switch back, too!!

Assembly: I designed this model to assemble without glue, allowing for customization. However, you can glue the parts together for a permanent result. Note, the lightsaber cannot be customizable once outer sleaves have been glued.

Printing: All parts were printed on Ender S1 Plus, but parts also fit on 220X220 build plates. I printed and tested parts with 0.4mm nozzle. No supports required Print the core halves and calibration ring first. The core halves are each flat on one side, designed to print lying down on the print bed. The calibration ring should be used to ensure the jacket parts fit “snugly” over the core. If the calibration ring slides too freely over the core, adjust your X and Y values in your slicer software to compensate before printing jacket parts.

Material: I used PETG for all parts. You can also use PLA (hilt only). I printed all my hilt parts at 100% infill to give weight to the hilt, but if you want to save on filament you can print with 2-4 wall lines and 15% infill.

Blades: Blades should be printed in vase mode, at 0.9 line width. (I got best results printing slowly 25mm/s with 20% fan. But different filaments might have different results)

TwinBlade Mod: I designed a joiner pommel to allow two swords to be joined. This pommel is printed in two parts lying down and joined by a wedge to ensure maximum strength. Again, glue is not necessary, but glue can be used for a more permanent and robust result.

May the force be with you, always.