**Downloading** 
It's here! 
I loved working on this model, and it was quite a challenge.

_This is an instructional page ONLY!_
Please **download** this model at the link below:

https://buymeacoffee.com/pneulegend/e/343356


**Printing:**
Despite my best efforts to avoid it, the "Top" part as well as the "Lifting Ring" will need to be printed with supports. 

All parts were printed on Ender S1 Plus, but parts also fit on 220X220 build plates. 
I printed and tested parts with 0.4mm nozzle. 
Print the core halves and calibration ring first. The core halves are each flat on one side, designed to print lying down on the print bed. The calibration ring should be used to ensure the "outer" or body parts fit “snugly” over the core. If the calibration ring slides too freely over the core, adjust your X and Y values in your slicer software to compensate before printing jacket parts.

**Material:**
I used PETG for all parts. You can also use PLA (hilt only). 
I printed all my hilt parts at 100% infill to give weight to the hilt, but if you want to save on filament you can print with 2-4 wall lines and 15% infill.

**Blades:**
Blades should be printed in vase mode, at 0.9 line width. 
(I got best results printing slowly 25mm/s with 20% fan. But different filaments might have different results)

**Assembly:**
I have included a tutorial video for the mechanical top, the rest is pretty straight forward. Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions.

May the force be with you, always.

Rey Skywalker's Lightsaber (Working Emitter Blades)

Calibration Ring.stl

**Downloading**
This is an instructional page ONLY!
Please **download** this model at the link below:

https://buymeacoffee.com/pneulegend/e/343513

**Introduction:**
There are many “variations” of Kylo Ren's lightsaber. I tried to keep the details as close to the movie as possible. I also had to take some liberties with the details for better printing results.

**Assembly:**
I designed this model to assemble without glue, allowing for customization. The "core" part in this model is interchangeable with my other lightsaber models. Or you can choose to glue the parts together for a permanent result. 

**Printing:**
All parts were printed on Ender S1 Plus, but parts also fit on 220X220 build plates.
I printed and tested parts with 0.4mm nozzle.
No supports required
Print the core halves and calibration ring first. The core halves are each flat on one side, designed to print lying down on the print bed. The calibration ring should be used to ensure the jacket parts fit “snugly” over the core. If the calibration ring slides too freely over the core, adjust your X and Y values in your slicer software to compensate before printing jacket parts.

**Material:**
I used PETG for all parts. You can also use PLA (hilt only).
I printed all my hilt parts at 100% infill to give weight to the hilt, but if you want to save on filament you can print with 2-4 wall lines and 15% infill.

**Blades:**
Blades should be printed in vase mode, at 0.9 line width.
(I got best results printing slowly 25mm/s with 20% fan. But different filaments might have different results)

**Mini Blades:**
Mini blades have to be printed in vase mode. Set your line width at 0.6mm, or print with 0.6mm nozel. I found that using a small brim helps to keep the blade stable during printing.

**Hilt Guard:**
This part was tricky. I wanted to make it removable so that you can replace blades if they break, as mine always do. So, the hilt guard prints separately and in two parts.  KR02-01 and KR02-02. These two parts are threaded and meant to be screwed together after printing. Once they are screwed together tightly, you can use glue to attach it to the main hilt in the correct orientation. Once the glue has dried, you should be able to unscrew the KR02-02 part if you need to replace any blades. 

Just repeat the process for the other side. 


**Pommel:**
I printed to pommel with 100% infill to add weight to the back of the saber.


May the force be with you, always.



Kylo Ren's Lightsaber 

**Downloading**
This page is an instructional page ONLY!
Please **download** this model at the link below:

https://buymeacoffee.com/pneulegend/e/343517

**Assembly:**
I designed this model to assemble without glue, allowing for customization. The "core" part in this model is interchangeable with my other lightsaber models. Or you can choose to glue the parts together for a permanent and more robust result. 

**Printing:**
All parts were printed on Ender S1 Plus, but parts also fit on 220X220 build plates.
I printed and tested parts with 0.4mm nozzle.
No supports required
Print the core halves and calibration ring first. The core halves are each flat on one side, designed to print lying down on the print bed. The calibration ring should be used to ensure the jacket parts fit “snugly” over the core. If the calibration ring slides too freely over the core, adjust your X and Y values in your slicer software to compensate before printing jacket parts.

**Material:**
I used PETG for all parts. You can also use PLA (hilt only).
I printed all my hilt parts at 100% infill to give weight to the hilt, but if you want to save on filament you can print with 2-4 wall lines and 15% infill.

**Blades:**
Blades should be printed in vase mode, at 0.9 line width.
(I got best results printing slowly 25mm/s with 20% fan. But different filaments might have different results)

**Parts:**
The two hilts of Darth Maul's lightsaber are identical, so make sure to print  the following:

2X DM03-01 

2X DM03-02 

2X DM03-03

2X DM03-04 

4X DM03-05

4X DM03-06

1X DM03P2

1X DM03P3

1X DM03P1

The buttons have to be printed separately and glued on. 

May the force be with you, always.



Darth Maul's Lightsaber/Twinsaber

**Disclaimer!!! Do not use this to dispose of radioactive material :)**

An overcomplicated but interesting storage place for my classroom sticky balls.

Easy Print! 

No supports needed!

Some gluing and painting required. 

Use M3*30 (or longer) to secure hinge at the back.

***Inner diameter of barrel is 65mm/ Hight 105mm

Radiation Disposal Bin (***Do Not Use For Radioactive Disposal***)

Barrel.stl

**Downloading**
This is an instructional page ONLY!
Please **download** this model at the link below:

https://buymeacoffee.com/pneulegend/e/343522

**Assembly:**
I designed this model to assemble without glue, allowing for customization. The "core" part in this model is interchangeable with my other lightsaber models. Or you can choose to glue the parts together for a permanent result. 

**Printing:**
All parts were printed on Ender S1 Plus, but parts also fit on 220X220 build plates.
I printed and tested parts with 0.4mm nozzle.
No supports required
Print the core halves and calibration ring first. The core halves are each flat on one side, designed to print lying down on the print bed. The calibration ring should be used to ensure the jacket parts fit “snugly” over the core. If the calibration ring slides too freely over the core, adjust your X and Y values in your slicer software to compensate before printing jacket parts.

**Material:**
I used PETG for all parts. You can also use PLA (hilt only).
I printed all my hilt parts at 100% infill to give weight to the hilt, but if you want to save on filament you can print with 2-4 wall lines and 15% infill.

**Blades:**
Blades should be printed in vase mode, at 0.9 line width.
(I got best results printing slowly 25mm/s with 20% fan. But different filaments might have different results)

**Pommel:**
I printed to pommel with 100% infill to add weight to the back of the saber.
Use "Joiner Pommel" in this model if you want to join two swords. This joiner pommel has been altered to ensure the sword faces line up.

May the force be with you, always.


Ronin Collapsible Lightsaber (Collapsing Blade)

**Check out these customization packs:**   
**Rey Skywalker Lightsaber:** 
https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Rey%20Skywalker%27s%20Lightsaber%20%28Working%20Emitter%20Blades%29-1220065
**Kylo Ren Lightsaber:**
https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Kylo%20Ren%27s%20Lightsaber%20-1207497?source=All+Files
**Ronin Saber:**
https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Ronin%20Collapsible%20Lightsaber%20%28Customization%20Pack%29-1165101?source=All+Files
**Darth Maul Twinsaber:** 
https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Darth%20Maul%27s%20Lightsaber%2FTwinsaber-1183575?source=All+Files

**Introduction**
Most lightsaber hilts print standing up, making them prone to break along the layer lines. With my multi-part hilt design, I was able to avoid the fragility of layer lines while also allowing for customization.  _Tired of having the same boring lightsaber? Print a few extra parts and completely change your lightsaber into a new, iconic version. You can always switch back, too!!_ 

**Assembly:** 
I designed this model to assemble without glue, allowing for customization. However, you can glue the parts together for a permanent result. _Note, the lightsaber cannot be customizable once outer sleaves have been glued._

**Printing:**
All parts were printed on Ender S1 Plus, but parts also fit on 220X220 build plates. 
I printed and tested parts with 0.4mm nozzle. 
**_No supports required_**
Print the core halves and calibration ring first. The core halves are each flat on one side, designed to print lying down on the print bed. The calibration ring should be used to ensure the jacket parts fit “snugly” over the core. If the calibration ring slides too freely over the core, adjust your X and Y values in your slicer software to compensate before printing jacket parts.

**Material:**
I used PETG for all parts. You can also use PLA (hilt only). 
I printed all my hilt parts at 100% infill to give weight to the hilt, but if you want to save on filament you can print with 2-4 wall lines and 15% infill.

**Blades:**
Blades should be printed in vase mode, at 0.9 line width. 
(I got best results printing slowly 25mm/s with 20% fan. But different filaments might have different results)

**TwinBlade Mod:**
I designed a joiner pommel to allow two swords to be joined. This pommel is printed in two parts lying down and joined by a wedge to ensure maximum strength. Again, glue is not necessary, but glue can be used for a more permanent and robust result.

**May the force be with you, always.**

The Ultimate Customizable Lightsaber/Twinsaber (Retracting/Collapsing)

Front Guard.stl

Saber Core Part 1 .stl

blade1.stl

blade2.stl

blade3.stl

blade4.stl

blade5.stl

Core Custom 1.stl

Core Custom 2.stl

Futuristic-looking, semi-automatic disk launcher. Launches 10, 30mm disks in under 5 seconds.

Frame:
Model frame should be printed on its back (as shown in slicer photo), no supports required. For best results print with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2 resolution.

Trigger and Launcher:
Print with PETG at max wall-line count for optimal strenght.

Disk:
Print disk with 0.3mm or 0.2mm nozzle.


Please post your makes, and feel free to leave suggestions!

Thanks, Enjoy!!!

Nitro Disk Launcher

Nitro Disk Launcher Frame (Band Version).stl

Disk.stl

Middle Sleeve.stl

Pommel.stl

Rear Sleeve.stl

Saber Core Part 2.stl

Duel Pommel Part 1.stl

Duel Pommel Part 2.stl

Wedge.stl

Hi, I'm an English teacher currently living in Taiwan. I love creating interesting props and games for my classroom. 

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The Ultimate Customizable Lightsaber/Twinsaber (Retracting/Collapsing)

Kylo Ren's Lightsaber

Rey Skywalker's Lightsaber (Working Emitter Blades)

Rey Skywalker's Lightsaber (Working Emitter Blades)

Kylo Ren's Lightsaber

Darth Maul's Lightsaber/Twinsaber

Radiation Disposal Bin (Do Not Use For Radioactive Disposal)

Ronin Collapsible Lightsaber (Collapsing Blade)

The Ultimate Customizable Lightsaber/Twinsaber (Retracting/Collapsing)

Nitro Disk Launcher