Case for a RPi 3A or 3A+ with a 3.5" GPIO touchscreen.  It's perfect for a klipper / klipperscreen setup.  I used the display from this kit, but any 3.5" 480x320 GPIO module should work : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08864L7N3

The fan bracket is optional, but the kit came with a 25mm fan, so I figured I'd utilize it.  Just zip tie the fan to the bracket.

You'll need some M2x6mm or smaller screws to secure the RPi in the case.

Print parts as provided.  No supports are necessary as long as your bridging is halfway decent.

Raspberry Pi 3A with 3.5 inch GPIO LCD Case

RPi_3A_3.5LCD_Case.stl

The main model here is a reverse bowden and cable support bracket, which is needed to make the KP5L capable of printing reliably.  The printer as-shipped makes no accommodation for the filament path between the runout sensor and extruder, which leads to frequent print failures.  This mod deletes the filament runout sensor, but they're dumb gimmicks anyway.  You will need three M3x10mm bolts to mount the bracket, as the existing bolts are too long or short.  Print both parts as provided with at least 6 walls and 20% infill.

The bed cable strain relief is not strictly necessary for basic functionality, but it's STRONGLY recommended for safety.  Print as provided (yes, really) for maximum strength with normal supports on buildplate.

The 70mm leveling knobs are entirely optional, but who doesn't like a really big knob?  They require one M4 nut each.

I managed to get Klipper installed on my KP5L, and it works well.  Just follow these instructions for the KP3S, but use my config file (rename the to printer.cfg) and use the compile settings included in it.   https://3dprintbeginner.com/how-to-install-klipper-on-kingroon-kp3s/

I've also included start and end GCODE and screenshots of the Cura printer profile I created from scratch, since the manufacturer doesn't provide one.

Original factory firmware, in case you fuck something up and need to revert back to the original condition: https://archive.org/details/kp-5-l-original-factory-fw

The PTFE fitting was borrowed from spool2kool on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3374447

My full review of the Kingroon KP5L: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-HNlwXncwo

Kingroon KP5L Starter Kit And Klipper Config

Bracket.stl

BedCableStrainRelief.stl

LevelingKnob70mm.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4951083.

This height-adjustable fan duct and mount will work with the latest (titan) version of the Kingroon KP3S to allow you to use either the stock titan extruder or a BMG with a E3D V6, E3D volcano, NF smart, etc hotend.  Some additional M3 screws in varying lengths will be needed, but I wasn't really paying attention to what I pulled our of the spares jar.

Kingroon KP3S v3 adjustable fan mount for V6 or volcano - titan or BMG extruder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4981257.

I needed a simple, freestanding mount for a RasPi camera with decent adjustability and wasn't really happy with the options I found, so I mashed this up.  Not much to it, just print one base, one cup, one frame, and as many popcorn joints as you need. You'll need a M4 nut and bolt to attach the cup to the frame.  The frame was modified from the original to accept (I think) every variety of RasPi cam and the various generic knockoffs (except that big night vision one, obviously).

If you want a super-sturdy base, I also created this 1/2" NPT adapter so you can use a cast iron floor flange: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5024751

Raspberry Pi Camera Popcorn Joint Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4740484.

Made minor modifications to fit FragrantAbyss's filament guide to most Longer/Alfawise printers.  Also added cable clips to manage the extruder/Z cable bundle and the carriage cable bundle.  Cable clip borrowed from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3213464

Filament Guide and Cable Holder for Longer LK1 / Alfawise U20 U30

**Project moved to https://www.printables.com/model/160259-x5sa-to-vzbot-minimal-linear-rail-conversion-pooro**

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4976173.

The Tronxy X5SA is a very cheap printer with some pretty serious problems.  The factory belt path is far from ideal, the motor and pully mounts are trash, and the rollers are sloppy.

The VzBoT is an ambitious and comprehensive project that is capable of impressive performance, but is "a bit much" for some people - both in complexity and cost.

This is a simplified conversion to take the best bits of the VzBoT and apply them to the X5SA to end up with an accurate, fast, and not-too-complicated printer for minimal cost and effort.  The goal is Voron-class performance on a tronxy budget - a "Pooron", if you will. I will be reusing as much of the X5SA kit as possible, adding (hopefully) only linear rails (three 400mm MGN12 rails with H carriages), a non-terrible hotend, a raspberry pi, and some hardware.


All motion/structural components are borrowed from the VzBoT project: https://github.com/VzBot3D/VzBot  (old site: https://grabcad.com/library/vzbot-1 )

Carriage is the EVA v2.  Download and print the parts they provide based on your hotend/extruder/ABL needs: https://main.eva-3d.page/



THIS PROJECT IS STILL IN PLANNING PHASE.  Nothing has been assembled or tested yet.  Proceed at your own risk.



21-10-28: Uploaded a "blank" fan shroud for the Eva toolhead.  The shroud is very thin, and the inset logo left so little material that there were gaps.  It's entirely optional, but this logo-less version prints much easier and nicer.

21-10-25:  I have received the X5SA kit and rails, and I have printed all the printable parts.  Not counting the big corner braces (which are optional), you will need ~320g of filament.  Unfortunately, due to reasons, I will not be able to start assembly until after the new year.  I will update this page when the project resumes.

X5SA to VzBoT Minimal Linear Rail Conversion "Pooron V1"

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4748931.

EDIT: After several months, I noticed the printed washers had warped significantly.  Maybe it's PLA's tendency to do exactly that when under constant stress, or maybe it's the heat making its way through the neoprene.  Probably it's both.  In any event, I re-printed the washers in CF PC and so far so good.  PETG probably would have been fine, but I'm really loving CF PC for structural prints right now.  <b>The moral of the story is that PLA is no bueno for the washers.</b>



This is a "lift kit" to raise your heated bed to accommodate insulation or anything else you need to fit between the bed and the bed support frame.

I bought a cheap neoprene insulation pad on ebay and upon installing it, found that it hit the Y stepper in the back and the belt cover in the front. Also, the flat springs just sort of dug into the insulation by varying amounts, making for a sloppy and unreliable leveling process. Not good.

I made some simple wide washers to give the springs a solid surface to push against, so they don't dig themselves into the insulation. They're a little tight on the bolts, so you have to screw them on. This is by design, so they won't fall off when you flop the bed over to install it. Fiddling with the springs is difficult enough, no need to make it even more difficult.

I also made a Z endstop offset block and a pin to hold it in place. I found 9mm was perfect for my setup, but since other people may have other needs. I made versions from 3mm to 30mm in 3mm increments. Note that 12mm is the highest you can go with the stock bolts, and 15 is the max for the stock springs.  

It should go without saying, but just in case:   Whatever lift you install will subtract from the usable vertical print volume.  You'll probably want to change your settings so you don't try to send the gantry higher than it can actually go.

The offset block was specifically designed to fit the Longer LK1 / Alfawise U20 & U30, but it may fit other printers as well. Sorry, I don't have any others to test. Please feel free to modify them for your own device.

Everything prints without supports as provided, though the block and pin could definitely benefit from a brim.

Heated Bed Lift Kit for bed insulation - Longer LK1 / Alfawise U20 U30

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4740454.

This is a mashup of TempusEdaxRerum's clever dimpled vase-made desiccant cup, and mitchell_cj's equally ingenious screw-together model.  I found the dimple holes on the former to be a bit too big, and my cheap desiccant beads would occasionally fall out.  I also wasn't a fan of the snap-on lid.  The latter only had air holes on the top and bottom. Neither had a particularly efficient (printing-wise) base hole pattern.  So I combined the best features of each and added my own slotted bottom.  The slots are spaced to slice perfectly with a 0.6mm line width.


Thingiverse is being thingiverse and not allowing my to credit both sources right now for some reason, so here's direct links:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538528
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2843807


Slicing settings:

Vase mode, obviously.  It's called "spiralize outer contour" in Cura.  Set your line width to 0.6, your layer height to 0.28 (or thereabouts, depending on your ideal Z increment), and your flow rate to 140-150%.  Yes, this is overextruding, but that's what you want in a sturdy vase mode print.  You'll probably want to crank up your print head temp a bit to compensate for pushing that much filament (I went to 190C for PLA that normally prints at 180C).  Print slow - with my CR10 knockoff I printed at 40mm/s with 15mm/s for the first layer.  2 bottom layers is sufficient, but I print 3 just to give it a bit of extra rigidity.  Vase mode requires top layers be set to 0, and wall line count is irrelevant. 

Print one copy at 100% size, then print another at 105% size.  They should screw together perfectly.

Each half uses about 8g (2.5m) of filament and should only take 15-20min to print.  Fits in ~~any~~ *most* spool holes, and it's a great way to use up that last little bit of filament from a spool.

**EDIT:**  I found that one of my spools (TTYT3D silk) was just a bit too small to fit the 105% half of the cup.  I logged in to make a note of this, and saw that user Ashnak had already discovered this issue the hard way.  Sorry.

At 105%, the larger half is just a hair under 56mm in diameter.  If you have a spool with a hole smaller than that, you'll have to scale down the model to fit.  The key is to have a 5% differential between the halves.  So just scale down the big half until it fits your spool, and then print the small half 5% smaller than that.  For my TTYT3D spool, I printed the two halves at 95% and 100% and it fit.

Ultimate Vase Mode Desiccant Cup

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5023227.

This is just the original Filler stand with the feet shortened by 25mm to use less filament and look less weird when using shorter remixes like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4930977

Shortened Filler stand for short rollers

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4981082.

I had been using the elephant filament guide on my KP3S, but after building an enclosure, the filament path changed and the filament would work its way out of the guide from time to time.  This simple donut-style guide has no slot for the filament to escape out of.

The original donut was less than ideal due to where the filement entered my enclosure, so I made a modified (extended and angled) version as well.

KP3S "Donut" Filament Guide

Extended and angled version.  Probably not for everybody, but I needed these modifications due to where filament enters my enclosure.

Donut2.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743420.

I really liked CyfroN's fan housing.  I love how it's a single part that is easily and quickly attached/removed from the gantry plate without having to disassemble anything (unlike most other big fan mods).  But I felt it could use some minor improvements.

I added a cable/PTFE clip to the top, and a ABL mount to the right side.  I notched the top left part of the 40mm fan housing to make it easier to reach the top gantry plate screw.  I removed some material at the bottom right of the 40mm fan housing to leave more room for the hotend wires.  The front 5015 fan mounts were super wobbly, so I added some reinforcements.  And finally I just went around and leveled/trimmed/filled various parts of the model to make it as simple/quick to print as possible.

The cable clip screws on with a 10mm (or longer) M3 bolt.  The ABL mount requires a 6mm M3 bolt.  The included ABL bracket is for the PL-08N inductive sensor, but it should be trivial to adapt it for a bltouch or any other ABL device.


Print parts as provided.  Main unit and cable clip require supports.  After fiddling with tree support settings in cura for ages, I gave up and just did normal grid supports placed "everywhere".  This method does require you spend 10 minutes or so picking bits of support out of the blower ducts with some needle nose pliers, but otherwise it works flawlessly.

Dual 5015 + 40x20 fan shroud for Longer LK1 / Alfawise U20 U30

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4740469.

Remix of Drykill_23's filament guide.  I slimmed it down to use less filament and print quicker.  I also converted it to press into the end of a 2020 extrusion, so it would work on *any* printer that uses a 2020 upper cross beam, regardless of the Z screw mounting situation.  Installation requires no tools and no disassembly - though some printers have a press-in plastic end cap that you will need to remove.

Takes a standard 608 skateboard bearing, or you can print one.  I've had good luck with this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746804

You will also need a 25mm (or longer) M3 bold, nut, and a couple washers.

Generic Upper Filament Guide - 608 Bearing 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4740447.

Just like it says on the label, this is a gantry adapter plate to mount the Hero Me Gen 5 fan system on several Longer/Alfawise printers.  It has been tested to work with the stock Longer hotend, CR-10 hotend, and micro swiss hotend.  The plate clip is optional, but it really does snug it down on the gantry carriage.  

I'm also including a mounting plate for a PL-08N inductive leveling sensor that should fit all Hero Me gantry adapters.  You will need two 8mm long M3 bolts and nuts to mount it.

Hero Me Gantry Adapter and PL-08N Mount for Longer LK1, Alfawise U20, U30

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4749361.

I have a SLA printer on the way, and I didn't feel like paying almost as much for a curing station as I did for the printer, so I figured I'd make my own.  There's plenty of plans for DIY curing stations, but I figured I could remove the tedious "cover the inside of a box with something reflective" step if I started out with an enclosure that was already reflective inside.  

Enter the kirkland 3lb coffee can from my recycling bin.

At 140mm diameter by 190mm high, it's not huge.  But it's bigger than the print volume of the Weistek W5501 I ordered, so good enough.  I made a ring that fits on the top and screws into place with a pair of M3 bolts (basically just to hold the LED strip cable in place), a lid, and a convenient lid handle that attaches with an M4 bolt.

The lid just sits on top and is intentionally loose because I originally intended to wrap some aluminum foil around it.  But between the somewhat-reflective silver PLA I used and the overabundance of UV LEDs, I'm not even going to bother with the foil.  The clearance is there if you want to though.

I used this LED strip:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CBBDYRV

And this solar turntable:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085NFJYZN

Honestly, I'm not sure the turntable is strictly necessary.  Fancy curing stations use them because they usually only have a single column of LEDs.  With UV coming at the print from every angle already, I think the turntable is probably superfluous.  But I already bought it so I'm using it.

Capricorn PTFE tubing sticker is definitely optional.

CureCan - The UV Resin Curing Station In a Coffee Can

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4691136.

I modified JordiPF's tool holder to make it a single piece, and allow it to clip onto the frame without additional hardware.  For the clips I borrowed gino89's model from here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3237941


Print standing on one end with tree-style supports set for 85 degree threshold.

Clip-on Tool Holder for Longer LK1 / Alfawise U20

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4734607.

I liked the shorter mount and spool/holder that Br0tein made, but I wanted to be able to clip it on without having to partially disassemble my printer.  This gets the job done.

I also printed these bearings and they work great with this spool holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746804

Clip-on Top Spool Mount for 2020 Extrusion (Ender 3, Longer LK1, Alfawise U20, etc)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699220.

This is an adjustable arm for this 12" LED lightbar:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAAUCZ2

It clips on to a 20x20 extrusion - the sort used in most Creality printers and knockoffs like the Longer LK1 and Alfawise U20. You will need some 20mm long bolts (I used M3, but M4 will also fit) and appropriate nuts and washers.  Print with tree-style supports set for 85deg threshold. 

EDIT 1/15/21:  A couple people have tried to tip me for this.  While I appreciate the sentiment, I definitely don't deserve money for a remix that took maybe 10 minutes to make in tinkercad.  Please either tip the original creator (hillbille) who did the hard work, or pay it forward in some way.

Adjustable LED Light Bar Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5024751.

A simple adapter to connect a popcorn joint arm to a 1/2" NPT fitting.  This allows you use a cheap cast iron floor flange as a solid, sturdy, freestanding base.

EDIT:  Added a NPT-to-female-popcorn version in case your popcorn joint arm goes the other way.

Popcorn Joint to 1/2" NPT adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5023216.

This is just the original Filler stand with the feet shortened by 25mm to use less filament and look less weird when using shorter remixes like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4930977

Shortened Filler Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4711708.

I was tired of zip-tying my bowden tube to the hotend cable wrap and cutting them off every time I needed to change something, so I chopped these clips off of ZoltanKi's clip/mount.  I printed it light with 2 wall lines and 10% infill, and they barely weigh more than the zip ties they're replacing.

Bowden Tube Cable Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5023222.

Simply a removable-pin version of the roller for uncoiled12's "shortened and curved" filler remix.  This is much easier to print and requires no supports.

Short Filler Roller with Removable Pin

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4933376.

This is a quick and dirty (very dirty) mod for 3D_ONE's Mint Mount for the twotrees sapphire plus/pro.  It simply consists of some sloppily lengthened fan ducts and BLTouch mount.  Should fit the V6 version as well.  

I haven't actually printed it yet, so it may or may not fit.  My hope is that someone comes along and makes a less janky version before my NF smart arrives and I actually need it.


Volcano mods for Sapphire Mint Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4949183.

Quick and dirty remix of benjibigbro's V6 duct.  All I did was lengthen it by 8.5mm to work with a V6 volcano hotend.

V6 Volcano Fan Duct for Kingroon KP3S Titan Version

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