Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4662560.

Modified Fillenium Malcon in TinkerCAD:
---------------------------------------------------
- added rear thruster stabilizers (if that's what the little vertical fins in the back are called)
- changed the angle of the forward wedges to be more realistic; the original Fillenium Malcon had them too skinny at the base.
- Widened the rectangular bit between the forwards wedges to be more realistic
- also ended up with a ton of model errors because tinkercad; however PrusaSlicer was able to automatically fix them (note: not with the NetFabb service); they are mostly smaller errors such as backwards faces.  (If anyone wants to undertake fixing up the model, good luck!) EDIT: I was able to fix the models with Windows 3D builder and have uploaded them.

I printed it at 120.03% (or 230.13mm tall), which makes it 1/150th scale. I have also painted it with acrylic paints to make it look even cooler.

The base/stand can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4662567

EDIT
------
I have added a version with the cut bottom like the original Fillenium Malcon by Aaskedall, as well as the missing piece if you wish to print it out and glue it to the flat spot on the bottom of the Malcon. 

Note: just so that everything is 100% crystal clear, the 'Fillennium Malcon improved' file is complete and does not have the flat part on the bottom, and thus you will have to print with supports. 
The 'Fillennium Malcon improved flat bottom' is the one with the cut rear portion to allow you to print it without supports. This pairs with 'the missing piece' file.

As an added note: all files have the ORIGINAL satellite dish (with the exception of 'the missing piece').

Fillennium Malcon Improved

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5175115.

I pretty much just took the model 660 uploaded, chopped it up, and put it back together so that the s-foils (wings) are in 'attack position', or the distinctive X shape that we all know and love from the movies.

I would recommend printing it a big larger than the model size, especially if you have a bowden setup, since the laser cannons are quite thin.

Star Wars X Wing, S-foils in attack position

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675177.

I needed a filament spool holder for my Ender 3 capable of holding two spools of filament. I also have my filament holder off to the side at an angle, so I decided to remix this design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4560579 to hold two spools of filament.

Hardware
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- 2 M5 * 16 bolts
- 2 M5 nuts

Edit
-----
If you do not have M5 * 16 bolts, shorter ones will not work (okay, M5 * 15 might). I have added a spacer if you have longer bolts. It is 1mm thick, but you should scale the thickness to make up for the difference in bolt length. For example, if you have M5 * 20 bolts, simply scale the thickness of the washer to (20 - 16 =) 4mm. This should go on the nut side of the holder, between it and the sheet metal part. It does not really have much to hold it in place, so I would recommend gluing it to the nut side part. (make sure to line up the flat parts)

Assembly
------------
Hopefully the method for assembly should be pretty straightforwards and intuitive, but just in case, here are some instructions.
I use the Prusa method (put bolt through, nut on other side, and screw down to pull the nut into the pocket) to get the nuts seated in the parts. 
Take the round half that has the holes of the bolts in it, and insert the bolts into it, so that they protrude out the back. 
Take this and put it into the hole in the sheet metal filament holder so that the bolts are sicking out the back.
Align the part with the embedded nuts with the bolts and screw it on the back.
These two parts should be clamping down on the sheet metal part. 
Before tightening the bolts all of the way, orient the parts so that the dovetail part that protrudes is vertically oriented. 
The roller has two nubs sticking out of its ends, and these fit into a pair of 608zz ball bearings (skate bearings, easily found in fidget spinners).
With the bearings on either end of the roller, it should be put into the pocket on the main part of the filament holder.
There are slots on either side to pass a zip tie through to secure the bearings and roller. This is optional. 
With the filament rollers assembled, the vertical slot on the end can be lined up with the dovetail on the round parts that you attached to the sheet metal holder and slotted down on. 
(apologies if the instructions are terribly confusing)


Creality Dual filament holder - adjustable for every angle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128376.

I liked the original design, but I wanted it to have the little pocket clip on the side like most pens, so I used Tinkercad to add one on. The top cap was also changed to have a bevel, and the parts have been split up into separate files.

EDIT: I have added a version with an improved clip and a more ergonomic grip design. This is labelled 'MKII' in the file. I ran out of black PLA, so  printed it in 3DWarhorse Blue PLA and spray painted it gloss black.

Note: I have confirmed that this also works with [Pentel EnerGel 0.5mm Needle Tip](https://www.amazon.com/Pentel-Refill-EnerGel-Liquid-Needle/dp/B003Z4ZXNW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pentel+energel+0.5mm+needle+tip&qid=1580066379&sr=8-5) ballpoint refills.

Bolt-Action Pen with Side Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4459852.

Changed the plaque so that it says 'Life, the Universe, and Everything' and has the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy symbol. Added a very shallow indent with more than enough tolerance so that the 42 sits in place and doesn't move around on the baseplate too much.

Hitchhiker's Guide 42 Life, the Universe, and Everything baseplate

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203346.

I used TinkerCAD to make the knife blade a comb, as I was unsatisfied with the other butterfly knife combs on Thingiverse.
I think these things are even better than fidget spinners, by a long way, in terms of fiddle-ability. It is so much fun to just flip it out and flip it back in.
A few people I have showed it to have commented that it does not have a latch, which is not something I overtook, given my limited design skills.

Here is a video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jcxnzy8UAPQ&feature=youtu.be

Assembly
--------------
--------------
 You will need: 
2x M4 x 16 bolts
2x M3 x 16 bolts
4x M4 nuts (recommend two locknuts)
2x M3 nuts

- The M4 bolts are used to fasten the blade to the handles with one M4 nut (recommended locknut) per bolt.
- It is important that the M4 bolts are not fastened too tight, otherwise the knife will not swing smoothly. I also used white lithium grease to help it spin smoother.
- The M3 bolts are used on the other end of the handles to fasten them together with the M4 nuts as spacers between the handles. The M3 nuts are put on the end of the M3 bolts to fasten the handles together.
- The small holes on the comb/knife blade are for pins. I used some ~3mm nails that I cut down to 12mm in length, and super-glued in place

Edit: I have added an assembly diagram of sorts.

Note: After getting a proper balisong trainer, I realized that this needs thicker tang pins that actually work well. (Future remix maybe; I don't want to invest more time in this project) I would also recommend printing with a high infill (as much as 100%) to make it heavier so that it flips better. Using locknuts for the bolts holding the blade on would be recommended, as they tend to loosen over time, and it would make it easier to make sure it is bolted together well without it being too tight and not able to flip.



CSGO Butterfly Knife Comb

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4459878.

This uses a ceramic magnet diameter 18mm and height 3mm.
Printed in 3D Warhorse blue PLA and a Silk Black PLA of another brand. Used the color change feature of PrusaSlicer to have the print pause at the right layer so I could manually switch the filaments. I printed two: One in blue with a silk black (silver) layer, and one in silk black with a blue layer.
The filament should be swapped just before the layer that bridges the gap over the hole for the magnet (3mm) and again just before the layer where the symbol starts (3.6mm). During the first color change, I inserted the magnet into the hole. This is not necessary, because the pert is open on the bottom to insert the magnet, this just insures that the magnet will sit flush inside of the part.

Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy Symbol Fridge Magnet

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4662567.

I modified the stand with a rebel alliance symbol from a drink coaster model here on Thingiverse (couldn't find it; sorry). The upper part was modified in TinkerCAD to fit better. I recommend printing it at 1% less than the Fillennium Malcon for best fit. 
Printed at 119.03% (FM model was printed at 120.03%, which is 1/150th scale).
Improved Fillennium Malcon Model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4662560

Fillennium Malcon stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4806338.

Created a stand for my make of nikoli2803's Imperial Star Destroyer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802061
Designed for my model printed at 300% scale. If you want to print it for your model, use the file Star Destroyer stand scaled.stl which is scaled to 100% scale relative to the original model. You can scale this to whatever scale your model is. Because of the way it holds your model, I would recommend printing it a few percent larger, but you don't have to. 

Imperial Star Destroyer stand

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