Sword-Saber Test Print

14K downloads · 5 years ago · This is a test print for the collapsing swords and Light Sabers. If you can print thing without the

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Description

This is a test print for the collapsing swords and Light Sabers. If you can print thing without the rings sticking together then you should be able to successfully print the full sword.

The test print is a total of 24mm high so I change retraction settings every 8mm. Then I compare the changes until I achieve the best result.

Each printer is going to be different but in my case I used a negative “extra restart” distance to reduce the size of the layer seam. Retraction distance/speed, wipe, coast, temperature, speed may also have an effect.

Discussions

jjscottypants3 years ago

Did you go up or down with the retraction settings? think I'm getting close just wanna see what you did.

3dprintingworld2 years ago

There are different settings; distance, speed, coast, wipe, extra restart distance.

PhoenixGod2 years ago

How do i make my own collapsable models? I want to know how you made this test print so I can try modelling my own version of It in blender myself. sorry if its a dumb question but I don't know how people make collapsable swords and stuff as there isn't any tutorials online

3dprintingworld2 years ago

I use Autodesk Inventor, its more similar to Fusion. No sure about blender but I'm trying to make some time to learn.

kevinespinoza7723 months ago

None of my shells fused together but neither do they stop themselves when extending, they simply fall through each other. I checked out your "Printing collapsible lightsabers and swords" with your recommendations but no luck. Any further advice?

3dprintingworld3 months ago

Its just a test to verify that they wont fuse. There is a newer test that measures at what clearance they fuse to give you a better idea of success. If no seams touch or there are no strings, then there shouldn't be a issue.

khaoskitty648 months ago

hey do i use supports or no i use a creality k1 with a 0.4 nozzle

3dprintingworld8 months ago

No supports

mohammedyahyaalikhan1 year ago

Hey I printed this and it wasn't fused but when I printed the actual sword, 2 layers fused and I used the same settings

3dprintingworld1 year ago

Two layers, what do you mean by that? Typically if this happens its because the test print was slightly attached but came apart because it was not very tall. Once printed at full height, its harder to separate. Or, the blades came loose from the bed. You will need good bed adhesion. Personally I like like a clean smooth PEI sheet for PLA.

sgtdes792 years ago

Hello. Thanks for making this great model! Have you tried printing these with scarf joints? I love scarf joints because you can barely see the seams. If so, what settings do you recommend in Orca Slicer 2.2.0? I'm using a Bambu A1 with Overture PETG.

I played around with the many different settings and I'm getting a lot of stringing on the inner arcs of the test print. Thanks for any help you can provide.

3dprintingworld2 years ago

I am aware of the setting but I have not tired it yet. I think I will in the near future.

Pi-Gy2 years ago

If I split up the blades, how do I assemble it?

laikster132 years ago

What setting should i use to print collapsing katana at 70 percent scale

3dprintingworld2 years ago

Scaling it down will make it harder, especially without reducing your nozzle size. I would get the replaceable blade version and print the blades separately in vase mode.