Easter Bunnies

Happy Eyes Closed Bunny.stl

Christmas Gonk.stl

Festive Gonk droid, perfect for hanging from the Christmas tree 🎄 

Broken egg full of eggs Easter decoration

Will print happily with 1-5% grid infill and one wall (photo is 5% with 1 wall with adaptive layer height 0.1 to 0.3) making a quick print. 25% is "real egg" size.

Easter Bunny egg

BunnieOpen.stl

Aquarius symbol, nestable box (v2)

FORBIDDEN PSALM Tracker v2

Crew Roster v3 v1.stl

ZigZag Christmas Ornament

##Not to Be Sold
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

##About the Design
This is an elegant abstract sculpture masquerading as a Christmas ornament. It almost seems to change shape as you rotate it in different directions.

This ornament prints well with just a single perimeter. That makes it very light and lets the most light through is you use transparent/translucent filament. In fact, it positively glows. It also looks amazing printed with bichromatic or trichromatic filaments. 

The print shown in clear was printed with Matterhackers Transparent PLA. They were printed on an AnyCubic Mega S and sliced using Cura. I'll be adding pictures soon that show the ornament printed with Matterhackers Quantum Raspberry Gold and Translucent Blue printed on a Prusa MK3S+ sliced using PrusaSlicer.

##Resizing
These should scale up well, but I'm not sure how much smaller you could print them using a consumer FDM printer. Using a resin printer, you could probably print them much smaller.

##Print Time
About 5 hours

##Print Settings
The trickiest parts to print is the top of the stems. Using FDM, if you don't temp, speed, flow, and cooling right, the thin parts of the stem will melt as you print. Thinner walls help. If that's not enough, try increasing the layer height.

*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15 mm
* Wall thickness: 0.4 mm.

*Infill*
Using PrusaSlicer, you won't need infill. Just set top and bottom to 1 layer and minimum shell thickness to 0.15 mm. That will keep the ornament light (about 13 grams) and will let the most light through if you use translucent/transparent PLA. 

If you use Cura, I would use support blockers set to 1-3 layers high to add infill just in those areas that are unsupported.

*Speed*
With PrusaSclier, I used the default speed settings for my printer and generic PLA. In cura, I used:
* Outer Wall: 35 mm/sec
* Inner Wall: 40 mm/sec
* Travel Speed: 60 mm/sec

*Build Plate Adhesion*
I used a brim. With the supports, you shouldn't need a raft.

*Supports*
You will probably need supports for both bed adhesion and the overhang on the first few layers. You shouldn't need supports for the loop at the top. Adding them would just increase the chances the supports broke and caused the print to fail. If you get supports inside the ball, just add a support blocker.

* Support Structure: Normal
* Support Placement: Touching Buildplate
* Support Overhang Angle: 60 Degrees (Cura) and 67 (PrusaSlicer)

Spinning UFO pencil topper

Simple UFO pencil topper

Easter Bunny Container - Small Size - 72x66x144

Easter_Bunny_SMALL_Full_72x66x144.stl

Christmas ball (with a flat) nestable box (v1)

Easter Bunny with Basket

Easy to print Easter Bunny with a basket on its back large enough to hold a cadbury egg. Prints without supports on most printers

Pickle Christmas Tree

A pickle Christmas Tree ornament. 

No supports needed to print.

Bun-bun the Easter Bunny 

She has all your eggs but I'm not sure I trust her to deliver them in one piece!

Grand Kaleidoscope Christmas Ball

**ABOUT THE DESIGN**
Out of all my Christmas ornaments, I think this is my new favorite. I love looking at it from all angles, Each new angle reveals some new detail you couldn't see before.

It can be a little bit of a challenge to print, but if you follow the instructions I've provided below, you should get a clean, strong print at a reasonable weight. You will need to know your slicer app and your printer well to print this. I use advanced techniques and settings to print it. You'll also need to know your filament well.

**NOT TO BE SOLD**
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

**RESIZING**
These should scale up well, but I'm not sure how much smaller you could print them using a consumer FDM printer. Using a resin printer, you could probably print them much smaller.

**PRINT TIME**
About 7.5 hours.

**PRINT SETTINGS**
I strongly recommend using all my print settings on your first print. If you want to increase the walls, change the print speed, add infill, etc. after that, go for it. You might want to print this page.

*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15 mm
* Wall thickness: 0.4 mm
* Alternate Extra Layer: Yes
* Top/Bottom Layers: 2 

*Infill*
I use infill in select areas, but I do not apply infill everywhere. Adding it everywhere will greatly increase the weight of the ornament without any earl benefit. This is designed to hang from a tree, so it needs to be light. At the bottom of this section, I explain how to add infill to just one area using Cura. I don't know if you can do this with other slicers.

I use infill in the top of the stem and the loop to strengthen them. There, I added 100% infill using a support blocker scaled to 175% (in all axes) aligned to (0,0,100.2 mm).

I also added infill to areas where a part of the ornament started printing in free space without any support. In most cases, I added a very small area of infill (usually just 3 layers high) plus a single bottom layer to add strength to the infill. They act like bridges. The smaller bridges don't tend to print cleanly, they work really well and you'll never see them once the print is done – unless you print with transparent filament. For these bridges, I added 1 bottom layer and used 15% line infill. **In the global settings, I set “Extra Infill Wall Count” to 1.** To get to that setting, you'll have to temporarily set the global infill percentage above zero. Then, the option for Extra Infill Wall Count will appear. Set it to 1, then set the global infill percent to zero. The extra infill wall setting will be retained, though setting infill to 0 will hide it again.
Since I also add a support blocker that's 75 mm wide (see supports section), I make my bridges 85 mm wide on at least one side so I can still select them individually once the support blocker is in place.

Below are the exact settings I used for the bridges:

<table>
<tr>
<th>X Size</th>
<th>Y Size</th>
<th>Z Size</th>
<th>X Position</th>
<th>Y Position</th>
<th>Z Position</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>3.5 mm</td>
<td>0.6mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>22.2 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>3.5 mm</td>
<td>0.6mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>9.25 mm</td>
<td>23.7 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>3.5 mm</td>
<td>0.6mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-9.25 mm</td>
<td>23.7 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>3.5 mm</td>
<td>0.6mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>24.6 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>3.5 mm</td>
<td>0.6mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>9 mm</td>
<td>26.4 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>3.5 mm</td>
<td>0.6mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>-9 mm</td>
<td>26.4 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>3.6 mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>32.55 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3.5 mm</td>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>1.2 mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>46.35 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3.5 mm</td>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>0.6 mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>49.5 mm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>85 mm</td>
<td>3.6 mm</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>59 mm</td>
</tr>
</table>

To add infill (or extra walls, tops or bottoms) to just one area of an object in Cura:
1. Add a support blocker
2. Select the support blocker and scale and position it where you want the added infill. **Be sure to scale it first.** Cura scales blockers from the middle. Changing the Z size after you position it changes which layer the infill begins on.
3. Select “Per Model Settings” then select “Modify Settings for Overlaps”
4. Select “Select Settings” and check “Infill Density” then select “Close”
5. Set Infill Density to 15%.
6. Set Bottom Layers to 1.

*Speed*
* Outer Wall: 18 mm/s
* Inner Wall: 20 mm/s
* Top/Bottom Speed: 20 mm/s
* Support Speed: 30 mm/s
* Travel Speed: 85 mm/s

*Build Plate Adhesion*
I relied on the supports for build plate adhesion. 

*Supports*
I recommend using both traditional supports and adding cylindrical custom supports where the ledges come to a point. This means you'll have to set Support Placement to Everywhere, so I also used a support blocker scaled to 75 mm x 75 mm x 110 mm placed at (0, 0, 15 mm).

* Support Structure: Normal
* Support Placement: Everywhere
* Support Overhang Angle: 55 Degrees

The custom supports help prevent the model from wobbling or coming loose from the print plate in addition to improving the print quality at the point where they touch the model.

Double Winged Kaleidoscope Christmas Ball

Double Winged Kaleidoscope Ball - One Piece.stl

Winged Kaleidoscope Christmas Ball

**ABOUT THE DESIGN**
This is a new variation on my Christmas Balls with Integrated Stems and diamond patterns.

**NOT TO BE SOLD**
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

**RESIZING**
These should scale up well, but I'm not sure how much smaller you could print them using a consumer FDM printer. Using a resin printer, you could probably print them much smaller.

**PRINT TIME**
About 6.5 hours.

**PRINT SETTINGS**
The trickiest parts to print is the top of the stems. Using FDM, if you don't temp, speed, flow, and cooling right, the thin parts of the stem will melt as you print. Thinner walls help. If that's not enough, try increasing the layer height or even adding infill. Infill is counter-intuitive, but it means the hot end moves to a different part of the layer, giving the outside a chance to cool. 

*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15 mm
* Wall thickness: 0.4 mm
* Alternate Extra Layer: Yes

I had the best results using Cura setting the default width to 0.4 mm with an alternate extra wall. 

*Infill*
I would recommend adding 100% infill to the loop at the top of the ornament to make the loop stronger, but I wouldn't add infill anywhere else. It just adds weight.

To add infill (or extra walls, tops or bottoms) to just one area of an object in Cura:
1. Add a support blocker
2. Select the support blocker and scale and position it where you want the added infill
3. Select “Per Model Settings” then select “Modify Settings for Overlaps”
4. Select “Select Settings” and check “Infill Density” then select “Close”
5. Enter the amount of infill you want

*Speed*
* Outer Wall: 20 mm/sec
* Inner Wall: 20 mm/sec
* Top/Bottom Speed: 20 mm/sec
* Travel Speed: 50 mm/sec

*Build Plate Adhesion*
I relied on the supports for build plate adhesion. 

*Supports*
You will probably need supports for bed adhesion.

* Support Structure: Normal
* Support Placement: Touching Buildplate
* Support Overhang Angle: 60 Degrees

I also added a custom cylindrical support to either side where the bottom ledges intersect. This not only helps with printing the point of intersection, it help prevent the model from wobbling or coming loose from the print plate.

Easter Egg

Print your own since the real thing is so expensive now.
Print two halves and glue together in any color.
Also shown here: https://thangs.com/designer/Kwgragsie/3d-model/Egg%20Cup-616836?manualModelView=true

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