Printception Large Vase

large-vase.stl

Professional Ender 3 v2 Extruder Motor Knob

Ender 3 and 3v2 or others using same motor. This is my X-Large version Extruder Motor Knob.

You can find my other matching knobs in my profile:
Drawer Knob:
Belt Tension Knob Covers:
Screen Knob: 
 
Print Settings
Rafts: No
Supports: No
Filament: Hatchbox MATTE PLA Black/Ash Grey


Creality K1 Extruder motor heat shield with air vents

K1 - ExtruderHeatShieldVented.stl

Creality K1 Extruder motor heat shield

K1 - ExtruderHeatSheild.stl

Tronxy X5SA direct drive with 10x15 cable chain

Tronxy X5SA dual gear direct drive

Flexi Extruder Toy

Extruder Toy Nozzle.STL

Creality E-Fit Cable Housing

I designed this to fit the Creality E-Fit direct drive extruder upgrade.

This fits over the top, keeping the hot end wires and fan wires stationary while the X axis moves. A zip tie slot at the top secures the cables in position.

I printed in resin because of the awkward dimensions but you may be able to make an FDM version.

Creality E-Fit 5015 Cooling Fan Adapter

I created this adapter to mount a 5015 to the E-fit direct drive extruder kit from Creality.

Prints with no supports and very little filament. Use the existing bolts in the kit to mount the adapter then use M3 bolts to mount the fan to the adapter.

This is tested and works but I am no fluid dynamics expert.

Show me yours if you print one!

@kwerkshop on Instagram

HMG7.2 Sovol SV01 BMG Mirrored Mount.stl

This STL is a component of the Hero Me Gen7 Printhead assembly for 3D printers.

**Hero Me Gen7 is a modular printhead platform for 3D printers with excellent part cooling and the most compatibility across printers, hotends, extruders, ABLs, and other components.**

 The Hero Me Gen7 is all about choice and personal preference. If you have been upgrading your 3D printer, you've made choices about what is important to you, Your choices are likely going to be different from everyone else. When choosing a hotend, extruder, and ABL combo (not to mention fans and accelerometers), where are you going to find a printhead platform that will accommodate all your selected components (which could be a rare combo), for your specific 3D printer AND provides part cooling that gives you great print results. **This is what the Hero Me Gen7 is all about!**

Think of the Hero Me platform as lego blocks for printheads, there are mounting parts for each component (hotend, extruder, fans, ABLs, etc.) that stack and mount to a core Base. Component specific mounting parts can be interchanged for another of the same type. So, should you change your component selection(s) in the future, you do not have to start over, you simple replace the single STL mount that is matched to the new component. There is no need to yet again go looking for a new set of mounting hardware that was not likely to have been designed to work with each other in the first place.

So to give you choice and fulfill your personal preferences in 3D printing, the Hero Me Gen7.3.2 now supports over 100 3D Printer models (plus clones), 46 Hotends, 34 Extruders (over 45 mount options), 17 ABL Sensors (34 mount options), 35 Part Cooling Duct options, 12 Cable Management options, 11 ADXL345 mounts, and 4 LED bar mounts (among many other options). Gen7.3.2 supports most of the popular 3D printers and components available. 

If you know your 3D printer model, hotend, fans, and optionally an extruder, ABL sensor, ADXL345 accelerometer (for Klipper), and any other options for your printhead assembly, you can scan through the Hero Me Gen7 Release 3.2 folder, or use the Thangs Advanced Search.  Be sure to set the creator filter to: ‘MediaMan3D’ then search for ‘HMG7’ which should bring up all the STLs. You can refine your search from there by component, brand, etc.

If you find that you have a 3D printer model or component that is not yet supported, send me information and preferably a STEP or STL (or link) if you know of one for the X carriage of that printer or the component and I will create a mount for it. Send to: MediaMan3D@gmail.com

If you want Hero Me documentation… The Hero Me Gen7.3.2 folder of STLs on Thangs is organized into sub-folders by component category, with sub—sub-folders for type and brand with well defined filenames to make it easy to find what you need. If you want documentation to help you select and assemble the Hero Me Gen7 for your specific 3D printer, you can get a membership plan here on Thangs.  You will get a detailed 56 page parts selection and illustrated assembly guide along with assembly videos, private Discord server access (with over 2,000 Hero Me users), technical support, and much more, You also get exclusive access to new STL releases 30 days before being posted to Thangs, and other STL libraries. Check out the membership plans here:  [https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d](https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d)

nozel half2(optimized for printing).obj

this nozzle is for water cooling the shaper of the industrial extruder for extruding poly carbonate pipe 

Ender 3 Dual Direction Filament Guide

DUAL_GUIDE_ROLLER_SUPPORT_ARM.stl

Ender 3 series PTFE-to-Creality Direct Drive Extruder Arm Conversion

Since humidity is an issue in my area, I use Rubbermaid 21 cup dry boxes with a reverse Bowden setup on all my printers to minimize the filament's exposure to the air. My Ender 3 Pro is setup for direct-drive extrusion. The stock Creality extruders (plastic and aluminum) don't have a threaded inlet for a PTFE fitting. I'm not content with using a stop at the top 2020, which leaves a good amount of filament exposed, subject to getting brittle, causing breakage. I designed this glue-on conversion for the Creality extruder arms and will work with any PTFE fitting that use the M6 threaded ends.

My top-most criteria was to have it strengthen the plastic version of the Creality extrusion arms, hence the thickness or height of the conversion piece. I also wanted to make sure torque on the PTFE fitting, while the hotend was traversing the X-gantry, wouldn't cause the conversion to loosen up or break due to flexing.

I decided to tap the threads instead of designing them in. Ample reinforcement has been added around the hole so that tapping won't break into the infill. With this method the size and shape of the threaded hole is guaranteed regardless of the filament used and the accuracy of the printer.

If you don't have an M6x1.0 tap, and aren't interesting in acquiring one, you can make one by:

1 - filing two opposing grooves along half the length of an M6x1.0x10+mm screw with a jeweler's file

2 - running it in and out of the hole a little at a time, until the threads are cut all the way through the hole.

15% infill with a Grid pattern is ample as long as you use at least 4 walls (perimeters) I recommend 6. 5-minute epoxy and small hobby clamps will secure the conversion piece to the topside of the extruder arm, which should be done with the arm removed from the extruder. Make sure no epoxy gets into the PTFE threaded area or in the filament hole of the arm. Leave overnight to fully cure.

The two extruders shown are the plastic model that comes on the Creality Ender 3 series and the red anodized aluminum one (on my Ender 3 Pro) that comes with the Creality direct drive kit.


extruder

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Creality K1 Extruder motor heat shield with air vents

Creality K1 Extruder motor heat shield

Tronxy X5SA direct drive with 10x15 cable chain

Flexi Extruder Toy

Creality E-Fit Cable Housing

Creality E-Fit 5015 Cooling Fan Adapter

Tronxy X5SA dual gear direct drive

View 510 new models

View 26 new models

Ender 3 Dual Direction Filament Guide

Ender 3 series PTFE-to-Creality Direct Drive Extruder Arm Conversion

Extruder Pal

UMO+ feeder bowden clamp cap extra strength

Macian's Orbiter v1.5 Mod for the CW2

Biqu H2 - 5015 Fan and Bltouch Mount + Duct

Extruder Mount Bracket for 2020 Extrusion