I designed this for the Cheng Liang P360W24V power supply, commonly offered with Creality's Ender 3 printers, for a stand-alone mount off the printer. It should fit other 'thick as a brick' printer power supplies of similar design.
Print Settings

Printer brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3

Rafts:
No

Supports:
No

Resolution:
0.20 mm

Infill:
15%

Filament brand:

Any

Filament color:

Any

Filament material:

PETG

Notes:

Suggested bed placement is the legs on their sides and the bottom of the center bracket lying on the bed. Supports for the holes may or may not be needed, depending on how your printer handles bridging over holes. If you're slicing with the Cura app, tree supports would greatly help if needed.

The holes in the center bracket are designed to allow an M4x12 machine screw to slide through. The holes in the legs are just deep enough for this size screw and will be a tight fit, so take your time and don't over-tighten as you cut threads with the screw. Of course you can use an M4x1.0 tap if you've got one. Alternately, you can skip using mechanical fasteners and glue the assembly together. Epoxy, cyanoacrylate, and any other glue or solvent designed for plastic will make a permanent connection.

I used PETG, what I use for all my functional designs. Any non-flexible filament will work. Be mindful of shrinkage variance in the other filaments since my design was tailored for PETG.


Free-Standing PSU Stand

Free-Standing PSU Stand Legs v3.stl

I picked up a Lina Nail Lacquer Shaker from Amazon about a year ago to mix up paints I use in scale modeling. At the time I was interested in resurrecting old bottles of Testors enamels, which this unit failed miserably at doing. Shortly after I invested in an extensive supply of Vallejo paints. While this mixer did a better job, the flawed holder design needed to be revamped--the rubber straps are prone to breaking after a few uses. 

My design isn't a remix of anyone else's, but it is heavily influenced by onebitpixel's "Paint Bottle Holder for Paint Shaker": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1619909. It is specifically designed for Vallejo 17ml Model Color and Model Air bottles, but I imagine will work just as well with any other brand that uses the same capacity bottle.

My clone mixer has a square shank that needs to fit into a recess in the bottle holder. The inner circumference of the holder is 24.5 mm, which make for a good grip on the bottle without marring the label or making it difficult to insert and remove.


Place the holder on the buildplate on its end. Add support for the shank overhand and the hole. Cura's Tree Support work very well here. Use a brim if your buildsurface and printer need it. 

I print all my functional designs in PETG. The thickness of the 'arms' is dependent on the more flexible nature of PETG over PLA, so I can't attest to whether the holder will work or last long in PLA, or even PLA+. ASA and ABS will also work.

Resolution: 0.20 mm
Infill: 15%, Cubic or Gyroid
Walls (Perimeters): 4
Top/Bottom Layers: 4
Brim: If your print bed needs it
Raft: No


Vallejo 17ml Bottle Holder for Robart Style Paint Mixers

Since humidity is an issue in my area, I use Rubbermaid 21 cup dry boxes with a reverse Bowden setup on all my printers to minimize the filament's exposure to the air. My Ender 3 Pro is setup for direct-drive extrusion. The stock Creality extruders (plastic and aluminum) don't have a threaded inlet for a PTFE fitting. I'm not content with using a stop at the top 2020, which leaves a good amount of filament exposed, subject to getting brittle, causing breakage. I designed this glue-on conversion for the Creality extruder arms and will work with any PTFE fitting that use the M6 threaded ends.

My top-most criteria was to have it strengthen the plastic version of the Creality extrusion arms, hence the thickness or height of the conversion piece. I also wanted to make sure torque on the PTFE fitting, while the hotend was traversing the X-gantry, wouldn't cause the conversion to loosen up or break due to flexing.

I decided to tap the threads instead of designing them in. Ample reinforcement has been added around the hole so that tapping won't break into the infill. With this method the size and shape of the threaded hole is guaranteed regardless of the filament used and the accuracy of the printer.

If you don't have an M6x1.0 tap, and aren't interesting in acquiring one, you can make one by:

1 - filing two opposing grooves along half the length of an M6x1.0x10+mm screw with a jeweler's file

2 - running it in and out of the hole a little at a time, until the threads are cut all the way through the hole.

15% infill with a Grid pattern is ample as long as you use at least 4 walls (perimeters) I recommend 6. 5-minute epoxy and small hobby clamps will secure the conversion piece to the topside of the extruder arm, which should be done with the arm removed from the extruder. Make sure no epoxy gets into the PTFE threaded area or in the filament hole of the arm. Leave overnight to fully cure.

The two extruders shown are the plastic model that comes on the Creality Ender 3 series and the red anodized aluminum one (on my Ender 3 Pro) that comes with the Creality direct drive kit.


Ender 3 series PTFE-to-Creality Direct Drive Extruder Arm Conversion

I wanted a better, more water-resistant and dust-proof connection between my Power Bank external battery pack and my Akasa Action Sports Camera on rides. The battery pack sits in the rear webbed pouch of my saddle bag, a few inches away from the camera. The cover and plug will help in making this a water and dust-resistant setup. 

Power Bank 25800mAh External Battery Pack (Amazon):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TSHW85D

Both the cover and the plug should be printed standing on their open bottoms on the bed. If you're using Cura you will want to use Tree Support on both, with or without a brim as needed. 

The cover will be a snug fit, with the middle tab useful in removing the unit when it's time to charge the pack. A USB cable will be a worry-free snug connection. The plug isn't as snug, so you may want to increase the size by 101% in your slicer if you care. Silicone sealant over both connections will make then water-tight, semi-permanant, attached to the removable cover.

I used PETG for durability and heat resistance to outdoor riding temps in my locale. PLA/PLA+ might work, but if your area gets really hpt in the warmest parts of the year, it might be better to go with a higher temp filament. ASA, ABS, and Nylon would also work well, but you may need to adjust the sizing in your slicer to compensate for shrinkage. 


Cover and USB Plug for Power Bank External Battery Pack

Power Bank Cover v2.stl

I needed to come up with a retainer for the general purpose open camera mount provided with my camera to prevent the camera from falling out on rough roads. I've dropped a camera twice before, lost a camera the second time! The solution I came up with slides over the raised brass insert housing on the bottom of the mount, and is secured with a M6 bolt. I went with a nylon 1/4-20 x 1/2" bolt (couldn't find one shorter locally) and two thick nylon washers as spacers. (The longer than needed bolt may come in handy should I decide to add a feature to the mount later on.)

The best orientation in the slicer is for the bottom of the retainer to be placed on the bed. In Cura I suggest using Tree Support. A brim or raft is also recommended.

Resolution: 0.20 mm
Walls: 2
Infill: 15%+, Gyroid
Support: Yes, Tree support recommended
Raft: Your choice
Brim: Your choice
Filament: PETG, ASA, ABS


GoPro Clones Open Mount Camera Retainer.stl

I needed to mount my Akasa Action Sport Camera above and beyond my underseat bag so that the Power Bank battery could be placed in the rear pouch of the bag and a short USB cable could be run from the battery to the camera. So I designed this simple 130 mm extension that connects GestoPlastico's (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2598431) seat rail clamp to the camera mounting hardware. The extension rests on the bag for added support.

Slicer Settings:

Resolution: 0.2+ mm
Walls: 4+
Infill: 45%+, Gyroid
Support: No
Raft: Your choice
Brim: Your choice
Filament: PETG, ASA, ABS


GoPro 130mm Straight Extension

I needed to mount my Akasa Action Sport Camera above and beyond my underseat bag so that the Power Bank battery could be placed in the rear pouch of the bag and a short USB cable could be run from the battery to the camera. So I designed this simple 130 mm extension that connects GestoPlastico's (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2598431) seat rail clamp to the camera mounting hardware. The extension rests on the bag for added support.

The wife and I have found the grip area on the reservoir lid to be so shallow that we occasionally drop it when removing and replacing, sometimes into the reservoir. This tab is just large enough to grip between thumb and first finger.

Use 5-minute epoxy to secure the tab to the grip area of the lid and allow to cure overnight before using it.


Reservoir Tab for Keurig K-Duo Coffee Maker

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5442293.

I purchased four **Steadyrack** wall mounting bike racks that have been a godsend. However, there is one design flaw, found this Spring when I came to realize I hadn't thought to check front tire pressure throughout the winter. The entire weight of the hung bike rests on the thin edge of a plastic-coated sheet metal hoop. When tire pressure is below optimal the hoop deforms the tire, potentially causing permanent damage to the thread and casing. This slide in place cradle gives the tire ever increasing contact with the tire as pressure drops, protecting the tread and carcass from damage, and this design may work with other manufacturer's wall racks.

Resolution: 0.2+ mm
Walls: 3
Infill: 65%, Gyroid
Support: Yes
Raft: No
Brim: Yes
Filament: I printed mine in PETG. ASA, ABS, Nylon. PLA/PLA+ wouldn't be a good choice if the racks are kept in an environment subject to freezing cold and hot temps.

Tire Saver for Steadyrack Bike Rack

My **Bikase Elasto Beetle Phone Bag** (https://bikase.com/product/elasto-beetle-phone-bag/) tends to squirm to a side, regardless of how tight I make the securing Velcro bands. I saw on Thingiverse a bag support that fits the formed contours of a modern top tube. My Specialized Hard Rock, however, has a classic design round tube main triangle, so I designed a similarly support that fits the top tube diameter, as well as the width of the bag. The FreeCAD drawing is included if you want to tweak the dimensions to fit your frame and bag.

Top Tube Diameter: **28.79 mm**
Bag Width: **87.5 mm**

Resolution: 0.2 mm

Infill: 15%, Triangles

Raft: No

Brim: Maybe

Supports: No

Filament: PETG, ASA, ABS, Nylon


Top Tube Bag Support for Bikase Elasto Beetle Phone Bag

My **Bikase Elasto Bettle Phone Bag** (https://bikase.com/product/elasto-beetle-phone-bag/) tends to squirm to a side, regardless of how tight I make the securing Velcro bands. I saw on Thingiverse a bag support that fits the formed contours of a modern top tube. My Specialized Hard Rock, however, has a classic design round tube main triangle, so I designed a similarly support that fits the top tube diameter, as well as the width of the bag. The FreeCAD drawing is included if you want to tweak the dimensions to fit your frame and bag.

Top Tube Diameter: **28.79 mm**
Bag Width: **87.5 mm**

I picked up a Wyse think client to use as an alternative to a Raspberry Pi for running OctoPrint. Until I was sure I this device would meet my needs, I used only components I already had: a 4 GB SoDIMM to replace the 2 GB unit within, an external HDD, a D-Link USB 2.0 powered hub, and a Logitech webcam.  Everything worked well, but I needed a smaller footprint for where this ensemble would be put to work.

This holder is designed to straddle the device with the dimensions of the external HDD and USB hub in mind. I've included the STEP file to allow for dimension change for your accessories.

Resolution: 0.2 mm
Infill: 15%
Walls/Perimeters: 4
Support: Brim recommended
Filament: PETG, ABS, ASA, Nylon

Print on its side. If you have any doubts on bed adhesion add a brim or use tabs on corners.  The STEP file is included to adjust dimension for your particular accessories.

Dell Wyse Dx0D Thin Cient Accessories Holder

Dell_Wyse_ Assess_Holder_v1.stl

Back in ‘75 I purchased an expensive Italian road racing bicycle. I've long since sold off the bike, but kept some of the components that I upgraded before then, such as the Universal Model 61 center pull brake calipers and levers. The gum rubber used in those brake lever hoods, same as the ‘gumwalls’ in tires of that era, deteriorated within a few years due to UV exposure. The levers are sturdy and stiff, with a lot of leverage and throw, perfect for cantilevers. 

You can still purchase NOS(New Out of Stock) OEM hoods, for $50-85 USD on the specialty market, but why bother when in a few years they will look disgusting and need to be replaced? One solution is to design and print a top half hood, then wrapping with handlebar tap. I sacrificed an old 26"x1-3/8" inner tube to create a very tight cover (I would use a slightly larger tube--this was all I had to work with) that would hold the the printed top hood to the lever body, and cover up the up the side lever screw head and threaded end. 

I was surprised at how comfortable the printed piece made the brakes levers. I hope this helps you keep a well made pair of vintage brake levers in use long after the the OEM gum rubber hoods are gone.
 

Included file formats: STL, STEP, FreeCAD

Resolution: 0.2 mm
Infill: 15%
Walls/Perimeters: 3
Support: Raft (to preserve curved bottom and sharp edges)
Filament: PETG

I printed mine in PETG, more durable than PLA in the sun. ABS, ASA, Nylon would also work well. Surprisingly comfortable printed in a hard filament. Flexible filaments like TPU would give some cushioning. 

Universal Mod. 68-61 Brake Lever Hood Replacement

Universal_Brake_Level_Hood_v5.stl

This is for the Humorous.P Plastic Shower Caddy from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083S4P829

The product is available online and at some department stores in the US. The bottom hooks are useless, so I designed a "J" hook that snaps onto the recessed area.

Print Settings

Printer brand: Creality
Printer: Ender 3 V2
Rafts: No
Supports: No
Resolution: 0.28
Infill: 10%, Lightning fill (Cura)
Filament brand: Longer
Filament color: White
Filament material: PLA

Notes:
I suggest 3 walls if you are using the Lightning infill. If you are not using Cura for your slicer, you probably don't have the Lightning infill option, but maybe something similar. Use the most minimalist infill option, then. You could also trying printing with no infill and add another wall.

I suggest a brim of 5 mm with a 0.18 distance if your printer bed tends to have adhesion issues when printing thin or small models.


Shower Caddy "J" Hook

This is for the Humorous.P Plastic Shower Caddy from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083S4P829

The product is available online and at some department stores in the US. The bottom hooks are useless, so I designed a "J" hook that snaps onto the recessed area.

Activity related to collaborating with others on models

Likes, comments, and activity from your community

A roundup of models that we think you'll like

For when we think someone might have posted your content as their own

New content from your premium memberships

Emails and messages from designers you follow

RetiredGuru