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RapidBurner v0.2 v8 Eibos Artemis Mount

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Neptune WindWarden Extruder Cover

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Sherpa micro magnetic quick change bowden 

sherpa micro backplate with magnetic coupler.stl

Direct Drive Sherpa Mini per Flying Bear Ghost 5

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Hero Me Documentation - Details.stl

Documentation Membership Details.stl

Safety clip (Clip de racor)

It is a safety clip for the pneumatic fitting or for a 4mm outer diameter quick connector for 3D printer.

The G-code is created with PrusaSlicer for Prusa mini with an ultra definition of 0.05 mm; but it can also be printed for Creatity and other printers that use Marlin, (if you have a glass bed with clamps, make sure before putting it on, to remove the front clamp on the left, to prevent the nozzle from colliding with it, when doing the first line of filament checking), since PrusaSlicer does it on the front of the hot bed, not like Cura, which does it on the left.

 

Il s'agit d'un clip de sécurité pour le raccord pneumatique ou pour un connecteur rapide de 4 mm de diamètre extérieur pour imprimante 3D. 

Le code G est créé avec PrusaSlicer pour Prusa mini avec une ultra définition de 0,05 mm ; mais il peut également imprimer pour Creatity et d'autres imprimantes qui utilisent Marlin, (si vous avez un lit en verre avec des pinces, assurez-vous avant de le mettre en place, que vous retirez la pince avant gauche, pour éviter que la buse n'entre en collision avec (lors de la vérification de la première rangée de filaments), puisque PrusaSlicer le fait sur le devant du lit chaud, pas comme Cura, qui le fait sur la gauche.

 

Se trata de un clip de seguridad para el racor neumático o para un conector rápido de 4 mm de diámetro exterior para impresora 3D. 

El código G está creado con PrusaSlicer para Prusa mini con una ultra definición de 0,05 mm; pero también se puede imprimir para Creatity y otras impresoras que usan Marlin, (si tienes una cama de cristal con abrazaderas, asegúrate antes de ponerla, de quitar la abrazadera frontal de la izquierda, para evitar que la boquilla choque con ella, al hacer la primera línea de comprobación de filamento), ya que PrusaSlicer lo hace en la parte frontal de la cama caliente, no como Cura, que lo hace en la izquierda.

Anycubic Mega S (Pro) X Carriage Sherpa Mini Carrier Plate V5 (Stock) Hotend


This started off as a basic project from the Video JJ Shankles did, that was until I found out the original Sherpa Mini Carrier Plates were for V6 or Volcano Linked https://www.printables.com/model/206014-anycubic-mega-s-mk4-x-carriage-mount-for-sherpa-mi & 
https://www.printables.com/model/473644-anycubic-i3-mega-s-sherpa-mini-volcano-extruder-mo , thus this Tinkercad Monstrosity was made.
It works well, has enough clearance and seems to be rigid enough to have no issues, I’ve only run it for 20 hours or so in testing but am loving my Triangle Labs Sherpa Mini and on this plate it works well. Images showing the voltages from the video for reference voltage to get good results.
Images of a quick wiring splice to allow for future mods which is just a JST 2.54mm XH-4A installed in place of stock extruder cable. In my case I left 40mm of stock cable on stock extruder to easily use in another future project.
X Carriage Base Mod - 	https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537449 
Config is on my GIT https://github.com/Tactical-Koala/AnycubicMegaProKlipper
Video discussing steps and some small issue may be coming in future, I’ll update here if I get to it.
BOM
Sherpa Mini Kit – Triangle Labs used in this case
 22g PETG or ABS preferred but works fine in PLA, I’m yet to have a PLA one get soft just went PETG as I had that loaded.
4 x M3 Heatset Inserts
In my case it was 3 x M3 x8mm to install to carrier as per X Carriage Build
2 x M3 x 16mm to install Sherpa Mini to mount.
2 x M3 x 16mm to install Cover plate over Carrier Plate as per standard build
53mm (est) Capricorn tube from Extruder to nozzle and 400mm Capricorn tube as reverse Bowden (not necessary in many configs)
Installation 
Print Carrier plate and all other pieces of X Carriage as wanted, insert all heat set inserts.
Remove old print head and install X carriage as per guide.
Uninstall old extruder, with machine off cut off old extruder plug ideally with a bit of extra length in my case 40mm but anything you can reconnect or solder is worth it. On cable coming from mainboard carefully solder on ensuring heatshrink is on wires the XH-4A or suitable for your kit. Shrinking down heatshrink when finished over connections.
Flip over printer, remove bottom and begin the process of adjusting stepper motor E0 on 0.0.2 Trigolla board. Many Youtube videos on this just be very careful as machine will need to be on during this step. Image taken from JJ Shankles Video on this I went with 0.52V on mine, a small screwdriver and a decent Multimeter is needed for this. https://youtu.be/GHtCsK7zlVs?si=IcIz4Qgw93iqvr9E Video Link of JJ Shankles.
Once voltage is set and you’re happy power down machine and reinstall base.
Install carrier plate and hotend, hotend, coverplate and installed onto carriage before installing Extruder worked best for me. Check Z Height and ensure that Capricorn tube from hotend is snug (Firmly) into the bottom of the extruder. In my case I ran the wires and the reverse Bowden tube roughly at this stage with some quick dirty tidying. Connect Extruder and start up machine.
 If running Klipper I have a base config in my GIT if running Marlin you may have to check extruder direction and potentially swap some pins around to reverse direction. 
Now you’re done with the installation, PID, Esteps (Rotation Distance) and the like will be needed but check the Z Height before doing anything else as it might now be slightly different. 
In slicer I had to change max Z height to 170 but you might be able to push a bit more.


Filament Roll Extruder Knob - Ender 3

Filament_Roll_Mid_Section.stl

Printception Large Vase

large-vase.stl

extruder

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