Balloon Holiday Wreath

DISPLAYONLY.obj

Articulated Print-In-Place Christmas Nutcracker v1

Nutcracker TOP.stl

Star Christmas Tree Ornament

**NOT TO BE SOLD**
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

**WHAT IS IT?**
This is a fun Christmas tree ornament that would also make a fun suncatcher if it's printed with transparent filament. It's reminiscent of a cross, a star (it actually has 8 points), classical western architecture, and more. Using my settings, it's a nice weight at 100% and extremely light at 75% and smaller.

**EASY PRINT**
If you use my settings, you shouldn't have any problems getting this to print. If you print this with your printer's default settings, you'll get a paperweight with a mushy top.

**RESIZING**
At 100%, the ornament is a nice size for larger trees – especially for the base of the tree where you'd expect larger ornaments. However, you can scale this down to 50% and still get nice prints. At that size, the ornament looks good on miniature trees. I haven't tried printing it larger than 100%.

**PRINT TIME**
With my settings, it will take about 4.5 hours to print at 100% scale. At 50%, it takes a little over an hour.

**COLOR-CHANGE PLA**
I used TTYT3D's quick color change PLA. If you print one ornament with it at 100% with it, you'll get a subtle color change. For a more dramatic change, like in the size comparison photo, print several ornaments at once. To go all the way from gold to blue, you'll need the estimated print weight to be at least 75 grams (4 ornaments at 100%).

**HOW DO YOU HANG IT?**
I've concealed attachment points one the back of one of the points of the star. Just tie a piece of coat thread to them to create a loop.

**PRINT SETTINGS**
You'll generally want to print this at the lower end of your PLA's temperature range. I print TTYT3D PLA at 180 degrees, which is well below their recommended temperature. Maybe my printer just runs hot, but that temp prints more accurately with less stringing.

*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15mm
* Wall thickness: 0.4mm and choose the “alternate extra wall” option so it alternates between 0.4 and 0.8mm walls with each layer (if you're using Cura – other slicers may not have this option). The alternate extra wall seems to prevent gaps in the print while minimizing the overall weight of the ornament. If you print below 75% scale, I suggest printing at 0.4mm without the alternate extra wall. I would also print without the alternate extra layer if you're using transparent filament.
* Top/bottom thickness: 2 layers for opaque filament, 1 for transparent filament
* Initial bottom thickness: 3 layers

*Infill*
This doesn't need any infill. Seriously.

*Speed*
You'll want to use slow printer settings to that the print is accurate and to reduce the pull on the thin arms of the topper.

* Overall: 60mm/s
* Outer wall: 40mm/s
* Inner wall: 50mm/s
* Travel Speed: 100mm/sec

*Build Plate Adhesion*
I printed with just a skirt and it worked well every time. If you have difficulty getting the details of the first layer to adhere to your bed, try adding a raft.

*Supports*
I added supports to get the outer points of the ornament to print better, but you can do without them. The supports I added made little difference in print time or the amount of filament used. I found that adding supports on the side with the attachment points (for strings) was problematic (attachment points broke before supports separated) and unnecessary (model printed fine without the supports). So, I added a support blocker to that corner. Support settings:

* Placement: touching Buildplate
* Overhang: 69 degrees
* Pattern: Lines
* Density: 12%
* Enable Support Brim: Yes
* Brim Width: 4mm

*Common Problems*
* Uneven print: Reduce print speed or try scaling the print up in the Z dimension only. Scaling disproportionately may impact how the ornament hangs.
* Mushy print: Reduce print temp, increase cooling, or print more than one ornament at a time. 

Ginger The Baby Dragon

License: Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs
CC BY-NC-ND
***
Patreon Sculpt, now FREE for you!
**Sculpt by @ChelsC423**

***If you would like to support us and receive exclusive to Patron models every month check us out here:
https://www.patreon.com/chelscct***

***If you would like to sell physical objects, please see the Chaos Core Partner tier on our Patreon***

Closed Lattice Christmas Topper

**NOT TO BE SOLD**
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

**WHAT IS IT?**
This is a topper for small to medium Christmas trees. It will work well on trees that are anywhere from about 4 feet (1.3 meters) up to 7 feet (2.3 meters) tall.

**CHALLENGING PRINT**
If you just got your first 3D printer and are looking for your first thing to print, this isn't it. Using the settings I recommend below, an experienced maker should be able to get a good print without many failed attempts. However, if you are not intimately familiar with the detailed settings in your slicer, add this to your favorites and come back when you have a little more experience. If it's frustrating, it's no fun.

If you're looking for an even bigger challenge, try my Open Lattice Christmas Tree Topper: https://thangs.com/designer/dazus/3d-model/Open%20Lattice%20Christmas%20Topper-472732?manualModelView=true.

**COMMON PROBLEMS PRINTING**
Assuming you use the print settings I recommended below, here are some common problems and possible fixes:
*Comes off bed:* Increase brim/raft size. Reduce print speed. Add more supports.
*Print looks rough:* Reduce print speed.

**PRINT TIME
With my settings, it will take 12-15 hours depending on the exact support and build plate adhesion settings you use.

**PRINT SETTINGS**
*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15mm
* Wall thickness: 0.4mm and choose the “alternate extra wall” option so it alternates between 0.4 and 0.8mm walls with each layer (if you're using Cura – other slicers may not have this option). The alternate extra wall seems to prevent gaps in the print while minimizing the overall weight of the ornament.
* Top/bottom thickness: 0.3mm

*Infill*
This doesn't need any infill. Seriously.

*Speed*
You'll want to use slow printer settings to that the print is accurate and to reduce the pull on the thin arms of the topper.

* Overall: 60mm/s
* Outer wall: 20mm/s
* Inner wall: 40mm/s
* Travel Speed: 65mm/sec

*Build Plate Adhesion*
You'll need to use either a brim or a raft. The base of the ornament is a thin, narrow circle. It just won't stay attached to the bed without a little help. I'd use an 8mm brim 8mm or a 15-20mm raft.

*Supports*
I used the custom support plug-in in Cura, choose the “freeshape” option whose icon looks like an extruded star, then chose “arch-buttress” from the drop-down. I attached overlapping supports to both the middle of the large and medium bulbs on all 4 sides. This results in a single support on each of 4 sides that makes contact with the ornament in 2 places. I used 20% gyro infill and a 1 layer wall. 

After the print was done, I found that the supports only just survived the printing process – and if they failed, the whole print would fail. I would now recommend using the “custom” option from the drop-down instead, making the walls 2 layers thick, scaling the width of each support to 150%, and reducing the infill to 8% gyro. Granted, I haven't tested this exact combo, but I know it'll be a lot stronger. The main difference in the “custom” vs. the “arch-buttress” is that the “custom” option provides good lateral support so sideways forces don't break the support in half. The new settings will add about 90 minutes to the print time. However, when this print fails, it generally does it after 75% or more has printed. Adding 90 minutes to the print may save you from printing for 9 hours only to have to start over.

I've attached screenshots from Cura so you can see both options.

If your slicer doesn't have an option for something similar to custom supports, you might try these settings, but I do not know if they will work:

* Overhang angle: 52 degrees
* Support wall line count: 2
* Support pattern: Gyro
* Support density: 8%
* Support placement: touching buildplate

If you do use them, add a support blocker to the center of the model to prevent supports from being added to the central shaft. There's no need for the supports there. It'll only add time to the print while giving you even more supports to remove when the print is finished.

Open Spiral Christmas Bell

**NOT TO BE SOLD**
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

**CHALLENGING PRINT**
If you just got your first 3D printer and are looking for your first thing to print, this isn't it. Using the settings I recommend below, an experienced maker should be able to get a good print without many failed attempts.

**COMMON PRINTING PROBLEMS**
Assuming you use the print settings I recommended below, here are some common problems and possible fixes:
* Mushy print: Reduce print temp.
* Comes off bed: Increase raft size. Reduce print speed.
* Print looks rough: Reduce print speed.
* Breaks during printing: Reduce print speed and print temperature. If you can, increase cooling. Add more supports.

**PRINT TIME**
With my settings, it took about 3.5 hours.

**PRINT SETTINGS**
*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15mm
* Wall thickness: 0.8mm. If you want to go thinner to reduce weight, consider using Cura's “alternate extra wall” option so it alternates between 0.4 and 0.8mm walls with each layer. That may prevent gaps in the print.
* Top/bottom thickness: 0.3mm

*Infill*
This doesn't need any infill. Seriously. 

*Speed*
You'll want to use slow printer settings to that the print is accurate and to reduce chance the bell is pulled off the plate curing printing.

* Overall: 60mm/s
* Outer wall: 30mm/s
* Inner wall: 40mm/s
* Travel Speed: 65mm/sec

*Build Plate Adhesion*
The first layer of the bell is just a thin circle. I've found that a raft works well to provide bed adhesion. It also separates more cleanly than a brim for this model. 

*Supports*
This print absolutely requires supports to keep the spiral arms from breaking. By setting the overhang angle to 45 degrees, you get support exactly where you need it: at the base where the arms touch the rim and then curve, and at the roof of the bell. It's a lot lower angle than you might normally use, but it's needed for this design.

* Support placement: Touching buildplate
* Support overhang angle: 45 degrees
* Support pattern: Gyroid
* Support wall line count: 1
* Support density: 10%

Basic B*tch Cute Container

BasicB.stl

Turkey Flexi Leg

License: Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs
CC BY-NC-ND
***
***Sculpts By @ChelsC423***

***If you would like to sell physical objects, please see the Chaos Core Partner tier on our Patreon***

***If you would like to support us and receive exclusive to Patron models every month check us out here:
https://www.patreon.com/chelscct***

Open Lattice Christmas Bell

**NOT TO BE SOLD**
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

**EASY PRINT**
If you just got your first 3D printer, this might not be the first thing you print, but it can be one of your earliest prints. Using the settings I recommend below, you should be able to print it with little difficulty.

**SUMMARY**
Here's a fun, quick, simple print to brighten up the holidays. The design is clearly a bell, but it also references Renaissance architecture. 

**COMMON PRINTING PROBLEMS**
Assuming you use the print settings I recommended below, here are some common problems and possible fixes:
* Mushy print: Reduce print temp.
* Comes off bed: Increase raft size. Reduce print speed.
* Print looks rough: Reduce print speed.
* Breaks during printing: Reduce print speed and print temperature. If you can, increase cooling. 

**PRINT TIME**
With my settings, it took about 3 hours.

**PRINT SETTINGS**
*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15mm
* Wall thickness: 0.8mm. If you want to go thinner to reduce weight, consider using Cura's “alternate extra wall” option so it alternates between 0.4 and 0.8mm walls with each layer. That may prevent gaps in the print.
* Top/bottom thickness: 0.3mm

*Infill*
This doesn't need any infill. Seriously. 

*Speed*
You'll want to use slow printer settings to that the print is accurate and to reduce chance the bell is pulled off the plate curing printing.

* Overall: 60mm/s
* Outer wall: 30mm/s
* Inner wall: 40mm/s
* Travel Speed: 65mm/sec

*Build Plate Adhesion*
The first layer of the bell is just a thin circle. I've found that a thin (4mm extra margin) raft works well to provide bed adhesion. It also separates more cleanly than a brim for this model. The raft only adds about 10 minutes to the print time.

*Supports*
I recommend printing with supports to ensure the roof of the bell prints cleanly. Ok, it doesn't show when it's hanging up, but I'm a perfectionist. With these settings, you'll only get supports where you need them.

* Support placement: Touching buildplate
* Support overhang angle: 71 degrees (this really is all you need)
* Support pattern: Gyroid
* Support wall line count: 1
* Support density: 15%

Open Lattice Christmas Topper

open lattice topper no supports.stl

Flowery Whatsit Ornament Suncatcher

*What is it?*
This is part of a series of designs that were originally intended as Christmas tree ornaments and I later found also made great suncatchers for any time of year (when printed with transparent filament/resin). This is the second in the series to be published.

Beyond that, what is it? Well, it's kind of a snowflake pattern (5 points instead of 6), kind of a star, kind of flowery, and bears a large resemblance to gothic architecture. Mostly, it's just a cool geometric design that I enjoy looking at.

*How to Hang it*
I've included two small, well hidden loops behind one of the arms so you can tie coat thread on them and hang it up. See the detail photo included above. They are really small and very well hidden.

**Print Settings**
You shouldn't need a raft or brim. 

*Print Time*
Depending on the wall thickness, these printed in 2-3 hours for me.

*Thickness*
If you want to use these as Christmas ornaments, I recommend trying to print this with 1 line (0.4mm) walls. As a suncatcher, it looks good with 1 or 2 line walls (I prefer 2). I needed to make the walls with 2 lines (0.8mm) to get a good print from the TTYT3D Silky Orange. I set the top/bottom thickness to 0.3mm.

You probably have your printer set up to print 1.2mm walls and top/bottom thickness. Don't use those settings for this design unless you plan to use it as a paperweight. If you forget to change them, cancel the print and start over.

*Flow*
I increased the flow to 110% for the outer walls and 105% for the inner.

*Infill*
This doesn't need any infill. Seriously. Don't add it unless you want to use this as a paperweight.

*Speed*
I print the first layer at 18mm/second. That makes sure that the complicated design gets good bed adhesion without a raft or brim. It also adds less time to the print and less clean-up than using a raft or a brim. If you have a cold bed, you might need the raft or brim anyway.

For all other layers, I use:
* 30mm/second outer wall speed
* 40mm/second inner wall speed
* 60mm/second overall speed

Whatchamacallit Ornament Suncatcher

###Not to be Sold
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

###What is it?
This is part of a series of designs that were originally intended as Christmas tree ornaments and I later found also made great suncatchers for any time of year (when printed with transparent filament/resin). This is the first in the series to be published.

Beyond that, what is it? Well, it's kind of a snowflake pattern (5 points instead of 6), kind of a swirl, and looks a little like an octopus, only with five legs. A pentapus? Anyway, other than that, it's just a cool geometric design that I enjoy looking at.

###How to Hang it
I've included two small, well hidden loops behind one of the arms so you can tie coat thread on them and hang it up. See the detail photo included above. They are really small and very well hidden.

###Print Time
Depending on the wall thickness, these printed in 2-3 hours for me.

###Print Settings
*Thickness*
If you want to use these as Christmas ornaments, I recommend trying to print these with 1 line (0.4mm) walls. I had good luck with that in the Hatchbox Transparent Red, but I needed to make the walls with 2 lines (0.8mm) to get a good print from the TTYT3D Silky Red. I set the top/bottom thickness to 0.3mm.

You probably have your printer set up to print 1.2mm walls and top/bottom thickness. Don't use those settings for this design unless you plan to use it as a paperweight. If you forget to change them, cancel the print and start over.

*Flow*
I increased the flow to 110% for the outer walls and 105% for the inner.

*Infill*
This doesn't need any infill. Seriously. Don't add it unless you want to use this as a paperweight.

*Speed*
I print the first layer at 18mm/second. That makes sure that the complicated design gets good bed adhesion without a raft or brim. It also adds less time to the print and less clean-up than using a raft or a brim. If you have a cold bed, you might need the raft or brim anyway.

For all other layers, I use:
* 30mm/second outer wall speed
* 40mm/second inner wall speed
* 60mm/second overall speed

Spiral Tree Topper

Small trees need love, too! this topper is just under 200mm tall and weighs under 25 grams. I was able to print it in just 4.5 hours.

It requires no infill and no supports.

I designed it so I could print it in one piece on my printer (Anycubic Mega S). After adding a raft, it comes in at just 4.6mm shorter than the theoretical maximum of my printer. 

This is based on my Spiral topper, but it's been recreated from scratch with no boolean operations. I wanted to create a cleaner mesh. 20 hours later, I had a design ready to test. It printed beautifully the first time.

**Print Settings**
* Layer Thickness: 0.15mm
* Walls: 0.4mm (1 line)
* Top/Bottom: 0.45mm (3 layers)
* Infill: None
* Supports: None
* Raft: Yes
* Print Speed: 60mm/sec
* Outer Wall Speed: 30mm/sec
* Travel Speed: 80mm/sec

I used a raft with an 8mm margin (default in Cura is 5mm) to get good adhesion. Without a raft, the base makes very little contact with the buildplate. The raft worked perfectly. The ornament was locked in place without any wobble for the entire print, but when I went to take it off, it required no effort to remove the raft from the buildplate or from the ornament.

In theory, you can probably print it in vase mode, but when I sliced it that way in Cura, it didn't slice right. So, I printed it normally.

Small Spiral Topper.stl

Spiral Teardrop Christmas Ornament

Spiral Teardrop.stl

Picture Frame Christmas Ball Ornament

Version of the ornament with no built-in supports. I recommend printing the version with built-in supports before trying to print this version.

Large Modular Spiral Christmas Ball.stl

Christmas Teardrop Ornament 5

Use this version if you want to create your own supports. I recommend printing the version with built-in supports first.

Festive

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Balloon Holiday Wreath

Articulated Print-In-Place Christmas Nutcracker v1

Star Christmas Tree Ornament

Ginger The Baby Dragon

Closed Lattice Christmas Topper

Open Spiral Christmas Bell

Basic B*tch Cute Container

Turkey Flexi Leg

Open Lattice Christmas Bell

Open Lattice Christmas Topper

Flowery Whatsit Ornament Suncatcher

Whatchamacallit Ornament Suncatcher

Spiral Tree Topper

Spiral Teardrop Christmas Ornament

Picture Frame Christmas Ball Ornament

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