Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5867497.

A friend of mine recently challenged me to design and print a minimalist wallet based on a popular, yet pricey, one he saw online.  Even though there are plenty of these available to print already, i took the challenge to see if i could follow these strange little items down into the depths their respective rabbit holes.

Questions about the difference between a wallet and a card holder ... what kind of things do you really need to carry with you? ... is it just about forms of money? ... what do you want in your pocket? ... why not just use your pocket? ... does everyone have pockets? ... is a wallet just a portable pocket? ... no i have to stop ...

I did that, probably a little too much.  So I present to you 'TheSummit.'  A minimalist wallet that's definitely not borrowing design elements heavily form said popular minimalist wallet (mine rises higher anyway and avoids silly relationships to the word "fold".)

This design did present some challenges that needed to be accounted for, and from examples I've seen, some pitfalls to at least explain. 

1. Yes there are screws, and yes they are not counter sunk. The original screw version uses 14x M3 4mm machine screws.  You have to sandwich the elastic in between the two plates somehow.  It is doubled in places - and with sewing that can create some thickness - you want some strength to hold it all together. Pan head screws keep the screw holes small, and the area around the screw holes remains thick. The pan head screws also give it a unique design element of my own. 

2. Sewing things can be tough for those who have not, or do not, sew.  I tried to make it easy-ish and also strong (your cards and money are theoretically in there).  The elastic is easy to source and really not that bad to put together - BUT - if you want, you can get replacement elastics made for that popular wallet (which are surprisingly cheap) - and they should work on this one just fine. 

3. The wallet needed to be thin, and daily-use strong.  That's two things when added together that can be difficult to accomplish with printed objects.  I went through several iterations of thicknesses, and landed on what we have.  If printed with 50% infill, there should be no worry with the regular version being a front pocket wallet. I might choose the "Thick" version (which has a 1mm thicker base) if you want to put it in your back pocket or are active. I made both for my friend, who is an electrician, so he can choose. 

So here is the materials list: 

1. At least 400mm of 1inch or 25mm Elastic band - i used [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57HUWI?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) - which is also available at many stores in the US.  I was able to find both Black and White to open up more color variations. 
2. 14 M3 4mm pan  head machine screws (7 for each side) 
3. Strong CA glue if you decide to use the no-screw version. 
4. Needle and Thread to sew the elastic


To Make TheSummit: 

1. Sew the elastic bands.  one of the images above is a terrible MS Paint drawing that explains the method i found to work well, if not the best.  Refer to the drawing and the photos for reference.  Essentially - you can do this any way you want, but it should be a band that wraps around the two bases, with a perpendicular portion that acts to prevent cards from being pushed out the bottom.   The extra band around the outside is for the "money clip"  and is really optional if you don't want it.   The trick here is to take care to sew as neatly as possible (maybe more neatly than the example in my images) to keep the profile of the elastic as thin as possible.  If you want, you can purchase replacement bands for wallets of this type that will work, as the overall measurements of this wallet match...

2. Decide Thick or Thin, and Screws or no Screws - and print the corresponding parts in colors you choose.   I included the WALLET_STEPS.stp file, that is all the parts in one file.  You can use that to do customization or remix to your hearts delight. 

3. Once all parts are printed, slip the Base pieces inside the "T" shaped part of the elastic. IT should fit in the channels, and look like...well like the wallet bases just put on some tiny underpants. 

4. For the screw version - you may want to clear the screw holes with a 2.5mm bit for the bases and a 3mm bit for the covers - then attach the covers over the elastic onto the bases with the 14 M3 4mm screws.  

5. For the no screw version - Use good strong CA glue or epoxy - then assemble the Base and Cover for one side and clamp it when its aligned.  Here is where your sew-job is measured, as the cover will bow a little then settle under clamped pressure as the elastic seats. Once one side is cured, do the other.  This eliminates having multiple pieces slipping around. 

6 Lastly, slip the money clip over the band using the slots in the center of each end.  See the photos for reference. 

If i missed anything - hit me up int he comments - Good luck!  



TheSummit - A slim minimalist wallet - card holder/money clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5840622.

Do you have trouble with your pop/coke/soda habit?  

Does your significant other, roommate, friend, pet or other entity require assistance opening their refreshments? 

Do you get tasked with opening those bottles of carbonated drink or need to task others?  

Do you want a 50/50 chance that it will stop or get easier -- or just need a fancy new fridge magnet?

Well then - this is specifically for you!

Print the BOTL OPNR!

The BOTL OPNR helps you grasp standard 28/400 spec* plastic bottle caps, and it has magnets to stick it to your refrigerator door so you won't loose it in the kitchen junk drawer. 

The OPNR has an enclosed recess in each 'handle' that is 3.2mm in diameter and 6.4mm high - which should hold 3 or 4 6mm by 2mm round magnets - [these are the same ones that are used with the Gridfinity things](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJ9H31P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)

Print it in your filament of choice at a 0.2mm layer height - and pause the print at some point before layer height 6.6mm (around layer 32/33 for 0.2mm) and place the magnets in the recesses.  No glue should be required, but if you have a steel nozzle you may want a drop of glue to keep them in place. 

When done, you can marvel at the near magic of seemingly magnetically attracted plastic! impress your significant other, roommate, friend, pet or other entity! 



*many two liter bottles and bottles of other sizes that are commercially used to hold consumable liquids have caps that have a 28mm outside diameter. 

BOTL OPNR - the soda bottle helper fridge magnet!

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5817604.

This is a dead simple valet tray with a few pragmatic features.  Its light, low and thin.  There are two compartments with raised ribs on the bottom.  The ribs give it a little strength. They make it easier to get your fingers under flat stuff, and also help to separate items.

It solves the problem of: “where can i put this junk from my pockets,” dead simply.  

It only takes a few hrs to print on a decently fast printer, at 0.3mm layers and 15% infill. 

don't go crazy, this doesn't. 

Simple Easy Valet Tray - Catch All

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5817663.

I had promised some time ago that i would post my not-keyboard stuff...and as i dig back through my files I'm occasionally finding suitable things that aren't one-off ridiculous widgets that apply only to the silly problems i make for myself....

this is probably useful to other humans. 

There are a few of these cable port/cable grommets available to print, but i wanted to go bigger than the ones I found.  This one fits in a 2 inch (~51mm) hole so that outlet/mains plugs can easily pass through it - as well as any kind of cable you can imagine. 

I'm in the US, so a 2 inch hole saw is easy to come by, but non-us folks may need to find a 51mm - which appears to be a thing?

Anyway, i included a blank cap (Cap 1 is the Blank) and STEP files so you can make this do things that you want.  

There's also a split tube for holes that exist with wires already in them (i mean, that can happen to you too right?) ... so you can expand the tube and slip it over those wires without unplugging and pulling everything already routed out of the hole in your desk or table. 

The caps should seat in the tube with a nice click, but not so tightly that you can't take it out with a fingernail to route more wires. 

Print things and take pictures!

Spectacular Desktop or Table Grommet - Cable Port - 2 Inch or 51mm

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5807785.

This is a super-basic minimalist Key Holder / Key Organizer that i designed and have been using for the last year.  I know there are many choices available, but i feel like this one has two great selling points: 

1. Its as thin and small as i felt i could design it to hold multiple house and smaller keys and remain strong. It takes up the least amount of pocket-space while being strong enough for daily use...and i have been for at least a year. 
2. It attaches to your key ring with a metal D-ring that's positively attached to your hardware and keys (not a printed loop that could break more easily) that is also easy to source. 

I think its beautify simple and easy to print well. 

The Hardware: 
2x M3 machine screws - strong, but small enough to fit a wide variety of keys, the length is dependent on the number of keys, M3x16 fit 8 keys on mine. 
2x M3 nut (locking or standard) (keyholder v4.1_Side 2 - M3 Nut.stl)
Or -
2x M3x4x5 Heat set thread inserts (keyholder v4.1_Side 2 - Thread Insert.stl)
1x D-Ring Hangar - these are in the small hardware section of many stores, they are for attaching to the back of a painting or picture frame [or from amazon](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=d-ring+hangers&crid=2F99CTL00C719&sprefix=d-ring%2520hangers%2Caps%2C133&ref=nb_sb_noss)




Minimalist Key Organizer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4357993.

More to come as i get this all uploaded and sorted out

As I said in TheDroppelganger summary (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4271448) I love my Drop CTRL - and if i was a very rich man, i would own all the variants...but i'm not...so I did the next best thing and designed a handwired version of the Drop Alt 67% keyboard.  I also went with the high profile variant this time as well. 

My intention this time was to glue-up the individual parts; then sand and fill the print and paint it. I wanted it to look a little more finished, and to see if I could make it look like something I purchased. Let me know if it was successful. 

Parts List: Forthcoming

- Teensy 2.0 (available all over the place - amazon.com, pjrc.com)
- 67 switches of your choice
- Cherry Plate Mount TKL stabilizer kit 
- 67x IN4148 diodes - you can get 100 pack on Amazon for just a few dollars
- (Optional) 2x 3mm LEDs and appropriate resistors
- USB B Mini cable (for the teensy - other boards and controllers may have USB b micro, or USB C)
- 8x M4x12mm screws (socket insert cap screws) to attach the top to the bottom.
- Keycaps, i used DSA profile to keep the keyboard feeling small, lowercase legends help extend that feeling


My other stuff (mostly Keyboards) https://www.thingiverse.com/revere521/designs

TheAlternate - A Handwired 67 Key Mechanical Keyboard

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4280254.

Since I designed a designed a Filco - compatible keyboard case that emulates the shape of the Drop CTRL, it was logical to also just design one that was similar to the majestouch...so i give you TheFilclone!

My intention again was to glue-up the individual parts; then sand and fill the print and paint it. This is again based on the Phantom PCB (since that's originally a Filco replacement board), but rather than design a custom plate - this uses the many choices of commercially available plates.

This should mean that you can build a keyboard PCB - plate sandwich with the phantom and a corresponding plate, or with many other TKL PCB's and plates out there designed to fit in case layout similar to the Filco Majestouch, or just refresh you existing Filco with something custom.

I did put the LEDs in a non standard location, I still don't like the choice to place them in the row gap. 

I included all the files as STEP in the archive, so feel free to remix or modify to your heart's content. This also means that if you wanted to try to build a GoN NERD/NERD TKL, H87a, or the Kprepublic XD87 should all be able to fit - possibly with some small custimization to the model.

More to come as I sort this out, but the files themselves are ready to print.

Parts List:
1. Phantom PCB (mechanicalkeyboards.com)
2. 125 ANSI Aluminum Plate (mechanicalkeyboards.com)
3. Teensy 2.0 (available all over the place - amazon.com, pjrc.com)
4. 87 switches of your choice
5 .Plate Mount TKL stabilizer kit - i like the sentraq ones on amazon
6. 87x IN4148 diodes - you can get 100 pack on Amazon for just a few dollars
7. 2x 5mm LEDs and appropriate resistors
8. USB B Mini cable (for the teensy - other boards and controllers may have USB b micro, or USB C)
9. 8x M4x12mm screws (socket insert cap screws) to attach the top to the bottom.
    Keycaps

Assembly:

1. Print the top and bottom halves along with the small cable cover if you want.
2. Trim and file the edges to clean the print - especially the mating faces
3. Pin the halves together to form a full top and bottom. The halves are designed to be pinned with 1/8" brass rod - but you can use bamboo skewers as well.
4. Test your assembled keyboard for fitment and alignment - some trimming, filing, etc. will most likely be needed to get everything fitted nicely. (if you went with the Phantom - there are several guides on the internet and youtube for assembly)
5. Glue up the top halves and bottom halves (I just use gel superglue)
6. once its all dry, assemble the top and bottom to test fit again - this time i included M4 threads in the top to help keep the assembly tight, but don't over-torque the threads
7. Optional: Sanding and Painting
   * with the top and bottom all assembled and screwed together, sand all the faces with 320 grit sandpaper to remove any printing lines and blemishes.
   * Use sandable putty / moldable epoxy / automotive body filler to fill any voids (try not to fill the seam between the top and bottom.
   * Once dry, sand again with 320 grit, then 600, then 800 - repeat as desired to get the smoothness you want. PLA will clean up surprisingly nice this way.
   * once you are ready, separate the parts and paint with a few light coats of spray paint following the product instructions. I used Rustoleum painter's touch. It will adhere to plastic just fine and does not require primer.
   * allow everything to dry and reassemble the keyboard including the internal parts




My other stuff (mostly Keyboards) https://www.thingiverse.com/revere521/designs

TheFilclone  - A Filco Compatible 87 Key Mechanical Keyboard

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4271448.

I love my Drop CTRL - and if i was a very rich man, i would own all the variants...but i'm not...so I did the next best thing and designed a Filco - compatible keyboard case that emulates the shape of the Drop CTRL high profile.  

My intention this time was to glue-up the individual parts; then sand and fill the print and paint it.  I wanted it to look a little more finished, and to see if I could make it look like something I purchased. Let me know if it was successful. 

This is again based on the Phantom PCB (since that's originally a Filco replacement board), but rather than design a custom plate - this uses the many choices of commercially available plates.  

This should mean that you can build a keyboard PCB - plate sandwich with the phantom and a corresponding plate, or with many other TKL PCB's and plates out there designed to fit in case layout similar to the Filco Majestouch, or just refresh you existing Filco with something custom. 

I did put the LEDs in a non standard location, i don't like the choice to place them in the row gap.  I included all the files as STEP in the archive, so feel free to remix or modify to your heart's content...and put the LEDs wherever you want.   THis also means that if you wanted to try to build a GoN NERD/NERD TKL, H87a, or the Kprepublic XD87 should all be able to fit - possibly with some small custimization to the model. 

More to come as I sort this out, but the files themselves are ready to print. 

Parts List:
1. Phantom PCB (mechanicalkeyboards.com) 
2. 125 ANSI Aluminum Plate (mechanicalkeyboards.com)
3. Teensy 2.0 (available all over the place - amazon.com, pjrc.com)
4. 87 switches of your choice
5. Plate Mount TKL stabilizer kit - i like the [sentraq ones on amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQ3K8KD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
6. 87x IN4148 diodes - you can get 100 pack on Amazon for just a few dollars
7. 2x 5mm LEDs and appropriate resistors
8. USB B Mini cable (for the teensy - other boards and controllers may have USB b micro, or USB C)
9. 8x M4x12mm screws (socket insert cap screws) to attach the top to the bottom. 
7. Keycaps

Assembly:
1. Print the top and bottom halves along with the small cable cover if you want. 
2. Trim and file the edges to clean the print - especially the mating faces
3. Pin the halves together to form a full top and bottom. The halves are designed to be pinned with 1/8" brass rod - but you can use bamboo skewers as well. 
4. Test your assembled keyboard for fitment and alignment - some trimming, filing, etc. will most likely be needed to get everything fitted nicely. (if you went with the Phantom - there are several guides on the internet and youtube for assembly)
5. Glue up the top halves and bottom halves (I just use gel superglue)
6. once its all dry, assemble the top and bottom to test fit again - this time i included M4 threads in the top to help keep the assembly tight, but don't over-torque the threads
7. Optional: Sanding and Painting
a. with the top and bottom all assembled and screwed together, sand all the faces with 320 grit sandpaper to remove any printing lines and blemishes. 
b. Use sandable putty / moldable epoxy / automotive body filler to fill any voids (try not to fill the seam between the top and bottom. 
c. Once dry, sand again with 320 grit, then 600, then 800 - repeat as desired to get the smoothness you want. PLA will clean up surprisingly nice this way. 
d. once you are ready, separate the parts and paint with a few light coats of spray paint following the product instructions.  I used Rustoleum painter's touch.  It will adhere to plastic just fine and does not require primer. 
e. allow everything to dry and reassemble the keyboard including the internal parts


My other stuff (mostly Keyboards) https://www.thingiverse.com/revere521/designs

TheDroppelganger - A Filco Compatible 87 Key Mechanical Keyboard

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4175635.

This case is a remix of my handwired version, but designed to use imchipwood's PCB from here: https://github.com/imchipwood/dumbpad

The 'Large' version files are uploaded and reflect the pictures of the completed project - except in the photos you may see the reset switch on the 'top' of the pcb, but its been moved to the bottom along with the pinhole to trigger it. 

For both the 'Large' and forthcoming "Small" versions, you must flip the board over to move the rotary encoder to the right of the keypad.  

In this configuration for Large - i soldiered: 
On the 'Top' of the board (facing up) - the key switches
On the 'Bottom' of the board (facing down) - the diodes, jumpers (or resistors) for the LEDs, the remote led leads (had built in 220 ohm resistors), the 6mm tactile switch and the wiring for the rotary encoder

In this configuration for Small - i soldiered: 
On the 'Top' of the board (facing up) - the key switches, the rotary encoder, and 2x 3mm LEDs
On the 'Bottom' of the board (facing down) - the diodes, 220 ohm resistors for the LEDs and the 6mm tactile switch. 

See the photos for reference. 

The keyswitch Alignment tool can help you keep your switches aligned in a proper grid, if you have panel-mount ones like I did rather than pcb mount ones with the alignment pins.

I will try to put up more info on the parts i used as time permits - but I also included the stp files so you can change the design to suit your taste as well.  

UPDATE: I added the 'Small' version files and a few more photos of assembly.  Setting the feet, PCB and etc, are similar between the large and small versions with the exception of making remote placement of LEDs and the encoder. 

Parts List: 

1. Encoder Knobs:
a. You can print the big 50mm knob from the [handwired version](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4146042)
b. the really nice mxuteuk 35mm machined aluminum knob from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TY2YLX7)
c. the smaller Knob is one from radio shack that Ive had for a while, there are other examples you can print elsewhere on thingiverse
2. Keycaps are [YDMK SA Carbon blanks from Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PZRSZZS/)
3. LEDs:
a. on the 'Small' version I used [3mm low intensity red ones](https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-3mm-red-led-2-pack) -radio shack PN: 2760026
b. on the 'Large' version I used [Red LED assemblies from radioshack](https://www.radioshack.com/products/12v-led-assembly-with-6mm-holder-red?variant=20332063173)  I have a silly amount of old radioshack stuff.....
4. Diodes:In4148 - you can get a cheap 100 pack from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KJ91JZ/)
5.Resistors: 220 ohm, i have a cache of things like this again from radioshack (when the local one closed, i bought out the remaining contents of the parts bin....another story for another time)
6. Tactile Switches:any standard pcb mount 6mm ones you have about - from other projects, but you can also buy them in packs of 100 from Amazon and other places
7. Rotary Encoders:Here is a 10 pack of EC11's from [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D3DF8TK/)
8. Jumpers:Save some castoff from diodes or resistors
9. Pro Micros:[3-pack from Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXCTVQP/)
10. KeySwitches:I used Gateron clear-top greens, you can use whatever you like - i just had a bag of those on-hand. 
11. Screws:The case top screws are M4 hex insert machine screws, anything from 10mm to 16mm should work
12. The feet and PCB mounting screws are thread-forming screws from the scrap bin,  the holes are 3mm, if i remember correctly.  the feet should require 8mm or so, and the pcb ones should be 8-10mm (with a pan head large enough to just catch the edge of the pcb as seen in one of the reference photos)

I will upload my kemap and firmware hex file if there interest, but this is a QMK firmware board that is included in the build environment and [configurator](https://config.qmk.fm/#/dumbpad/LAYOUT)

Hit me up in the comments for any clarifications



My other stuff (mostly Keyboards) https://www.thingiverse.com/revere521/designs

Dumbpad - 4x4 Macro Keypad with Rotary Encoder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5622129.

Since my first published keybboard was The1987 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4221440)  and it's fairly popular, and its designed aroung the Phantom circuitboard and Teensy 2.0, which are no longer available, i felt it was time to take the design concept - and make something new!  good for all of us right?

I wanted to recreate this keyboard that pulled from 80's design styles - especially consumer electronics, PCs and video game systems. I still love the 80's grey everything that my 12 year old self drooled over and i needed to recapture it again.  So like the designers in the 90's - i took the successful 80's design, made it smaller and added some lighting and gadetry and called it the something something Lite!  Exciting!

the name was originally a play on the TKL (87 keys) and the 1980's ... but whats in a name...its the though that counts...not shamelsly plaing on the popularity off a thing while loosing a little of the meaning right?

i don't know, let me know what you think in the comments


Parts list:
* 67x Cherry MX style mechanical key switches
* A set of Keycaps - I used these awesome videoarcade themed ones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T9BJ34H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
* I had a Proton-C available, so the firmware is there if you have one, as well as a bottom case
* Or A Keeb.io Elite-C https://keeb.io/products/elite-c-low-profile-version-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-atmega32u4 or Elite-Pi https://keeb.io/products/elite-pi-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-rp2040
* 18x Ws2812B RGB LED Modules https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0J3UM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (way more than enough light, and no power issues)
* 1x 0.91 Inch I2C OLED screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L7QW7SR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
* 67x IN4148 diodes - i keep these around https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KJ91JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
* 8x M3x12mm pan head machine screws (to assemble the case)
* 2x M3x6mm pan head machine screws (to attach the feet)
* 8x M3x4x5 Brass threaded inserts (to heat insert into the TOP PLATE screw holes)
* Clear or White filament for the bottom of the case i used this
* Various wire, soldier, etc. etc.

The1987Lite - A Handwired 65% revision of The1987 TKL with OLED and RGB!

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5622541.

Is shrinkflation amusing yet?  Less 2187 for more...something

Since I recreated The1987, it followed suit that i should include this one as well.  Its the more modern design with a small sprinkle of cyberpunk. The name, again, was originally a play on the TKL (87 keys) and some future time ...assuming some industrious designer in the future looked back and wanted to capitalize on the popularity of the original(s).  Shamelessly playing on the popularity of a thing while is strictly the name of the game!

The instructions and parts lists for The1987Lite all apply to this case (except the screws and knurled inserts); including the wiring and firmware (no Proton-C though, i was finally out of them)

I like to chat, so comments!

Parts list:
* 67x Cherry MX style mechanical key switches
* A set of Keycaps  - I used some shine through ones I had laying around, they almost work
* A Keeb.io Elite-C https://keeb.io/products/elite-c-low-profile-version-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-atmega32u4 or Elite-Pi https://keeb.io/products/elite-pi-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-rp2040
* 18x Ws2812B RGB LED Modules https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0J3UM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (way more than enough light, and no power issues)
* 1x 0.91 Inch I2C OLED screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L7QW7SR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
*  67x IN4148 diodes - i keep these around https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KJ91JZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
* 8x M4x16mm pan head machine screws (to assemble the case)
* 2x M3x6mm pan head machine screws (to attach the feet)
* 8x M4x4x5 Brass threaded inserts (to heat insert into the TOP PLATE screw holes)
* Clear or White filament for the bottom of the case i used this
* Various wire, soldier, etc. etc.



The2187Lite - A Handwired 65% revision of The2187 TKL with OLED and RGB!

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4597617.

This is my Remix of the Mini UNTZtrument from Adafruit (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:409733)

I added a ProMicro mount - since they have the Leonardo boot-loader and similar pin-out. 

I also slimmed the case down a bit, since the micro is significantly smaller than the Leonardo was. 

The only addition to the existing instructions (https://learn.adafruit.com/mini-untztrument-3d-printed-midi-controller/3d-printing) is to use the TeeOnArdu board library in the Arduino IDE

I included my sketch, but its unchanged from the one on the Adafruit site

Mini UNTZtrument Midi Controller - Pro Micro Remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4225886.

Update: I plan on doing some revisions here to add a newer controller and firmware to eliminate the teensy 2.0 and the phantom pcb, since they are either out of production or nearly impossible to find. It will most likely be a handwired version utilizing the metal plate. If you want a fully printable handwired version there is also: [The2187Lite - A Handwired 65% revision of The2187 TKL with OLED and RGB!](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5622541)

As promised, this is another case for the modular system i described in: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4221440

This one is a more modern design, maybe with a little dash of cyberpunk, that's also a little more compact.  The2187 is the pretend future redesign of The1987, assuming some industrious designer in the future looked back and wanted to capitalize on the popularity of the original.

The instructions and parts lists for The1987 all apply to this case. 

Enjoy!


Update 1: I fixed the screw hole depth on the bottom halves so 8x M12x12mm screws will work better, Also if you have only M4x16mm - print 8 of the screw inserts and they can now be used as well




My other stuff (mostly Keyboards) https://www.thingiverse.com/revere521/designs

The2187 - A Modular Modern 87 Key Mechanical Keyboard

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5580026.

I have loved using my UltiPad (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4248565), used it every day since i first designed and prototyped it ... but it started to feel a little dated.  An since the UltiPad is one of my more popular projects..and since i'm a glutton for punishment... i present TheUltiPad Mark Two! (something, something, still not good at names...)

It still has the 23 key number pad with media controls (four extra buttons at the top), Two function keys for multiple layers, and the rotary encoder... but now it has under glow (as much as you want!) and a neat little OLED screen to describe the layer, lock keys (num, cap and scr) and the under glow RGB settings. 

The only hitch here, is I had some QMK Proton-c controllers sitting around waiting to do something, and i didn't realize that they are getting hard to come by...so i designed and built my prototype with the proton-c.  

So...I went back to the drawing board and redesigned the lower half to support the USB-C versions of the pro-micro.  

So now you have both, or either.  You get to pick, that's what i'm saying. 

I  uploaded the raw QMK firmware folder (just download revere521.zip.txt and rename it to revere521.zip) and place it in the keyboards folder of your local QMK build env. - then you can customize/change the firmware and recompile to your liking. 

There is a compiled hex (pro-micro) and bin (proton-c) if you just want to use what I compiled.  Both firmware works and has been tested, and its essentially exactly the setup for the original UltiPad - with updates and additions for the OLED and Neopixel LEDs. 

the only differences between the two are the proton-c version is setup for four (4) LEDs and the pro-micro version is setup for five (5).  


Otherwise: 
* The Keypad is the number pad as labeled
* The 4 top keys as PREV, PLAY, NEXT, STOP.
* The rotary encoder is Volume Up and Down, with the button as MUTE.
* The two bottom keys are setup as TT(1) and TT(2) (both a momentary and a toggle with double tap)
    a. Layer 1 sets all the numbered keys (0-9) as LCAG(1), LCAG(2), etc. and i use autohotkey as an app launcher for LeftCtrl, Alt, Win + a number
    b. Layer 2 sets all the numbered keys (0-9) as LCAG(A), LCAG(B), etc. and i use autohotkey as an app launcher for LeftCtrl, Alt, Win + a letter (a through j)
RGB Control:
* Fn + NumLock = changes the RGB Mode Forward (Alt + Numlock Reverse)
* Fn + Divide = changes the Hue forward (Alt + Divide Reverse)
* Fn + Multiply = changes the Saturation forward (Alt + Multiply Reverse)
* Fn + Minus = changes the Value forward (Alt + Minus Reverse)


Parts List:
* 23x Cherry MX switches of your choice
* There are recesses for Cherry MX Stabilizers but i am using it fine without stabilizers
* The [really nice mxuteuk 35mm machined aluminum knob](https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Aluminum-Potentiometer-Electric-KNOB-06-34SR/dp/B07TY2YLX7) from Amazon
* Diodes: In4148 - (Amazon or Aliexpress, or wherever) 
* EC11 Rotary Encoder - (Amazon or Aliexpress, or wherever) 
* Proton-C - you can read about it and check stock at various suppliers [here](https://qmk.fm/proton-c/)
* Pro-Micro USB-C - you can get these from Amazon, or get the original from Sparkfun - [i used these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DKBXMW6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
* 1.3 inch OLED I2C Display [i used this one](https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Serial-SSH1106-Display-Arduino/dp/B01MRR4LVE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=Z0QK6LBA9OGP&keywords=1.3+oled&qid=1666188552&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjY0IiwicXNhIjoiMi40MyIsInFzcCI6IjIuNTIifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=1.3+ole%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-3)
* WS2812B LED buttons - [I used these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DC0J3UM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
* Any USB C cable for the Pro Micro or Proton-C
* 4x M3x14mm pan head machine screws (to assemble the case)
* 2x M3x6mm pan head machine screws (to attach the feet)
* 2x M2x4mm machine screws to attach the Proton-C only (pro-micro must be affixed with glue or double-sided tape)
* 4x M3x4x5 Brass threaded inserts (to insert into the TOP PLATE screw holes) 
* Clear or White filament for the bottom of the case [i used this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNG4L9P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
* Various wire, soldier, etc. etc.

My other stuff (mostly Keyboards) https://www.thingiverse.com/revere521/designs


TheUltiPad MK2 - Now with OLED Display and RGB

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4258590.

As promised, this is another case for the modular system i described in:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4221440

This one is a minimalist design - to have a smaller footprint and profile than the other two.  Someone said 'Ya Basic' and this keyboard responded yep, that's a good thing. 

I still couldn't abide large unbroken rectangular planes, so I included some inverted fillets on the long edges to break up the monotony a little.   

The instructions and parts lists for The1987 all apply to this case.

I also included some standoffs and a plate brim so if you wanted, or already have, a standard Filco compatible TKL plate and want to use that rather than having a cutting service make you one. 

Enjoy!






My other stuff (mostly Keyboards) https://www.thingiverse.com/revere521/designs

TheBasic - A Minimalist 87 Key Mechanical Keyboard

I like to make my own stuff....and i like to share.   I have been 3d printing since 2015 when i purchased a Monoprice duplicator clone, and taught myself how to design and print.  I have training as an artist, and my discipline of choice is sculpture - so additive and subtractive modelling in a 3D space speaks to my aptitude and creative impulses.  I also love electronics, computers and machines, so my designs seem to fit into that niche....at least here.  Feel free to comment, post makes, and reach out!  I love to discuss making things. 


Check me out here too:
https://www.printables.com/social/406094-revere521/models
https://cults3d.com/en/users/revere521/creations
https://thangs.com/designer/revere521



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