Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4830265.

Check out  my other design for converting the Z-Axis to use dual lead screws and linear rods: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817790

https://youtu.be/EMDsv_4jz4s
https://youtu.be/bGszZp_2sEU

This is part of a series of mod designs for the Mega Zero V1, here are others mods I've designed:
- [MGN12 Y-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4903945)
- [Dual Lead Screw Linear Rods Z-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817790)
- [Sherpa Mini Direct Drive Mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843855) (not needed if using replacement gantry plate. See 8/31/2021 update notes below)
- [Magnetic Lead Screw Anti-Wobble](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790439)

**EDIT**

9/15/2021

- Updated gantry plate screw holes and nut fixtures. Tighter fit for M3 nuts so that they don't easily fall out when adjusting or disassembly. The belt clip gaps have been reduced so that the belt will be centered to the aluminum extrusion when belt is fully seated.

8/31/2021

- Updated Rail mount (left, right, and center). Print in default orientation with 3 walls, 30% infill. These have tighter tolerance and will sit firmly against the 2020 extrusion. Make sure to calibrate your flow rate prior to printing. Dimensional accuracy is very important. PETG is the preferred material.

- Added replacement stock gantry plates with Ender 3 mounting points and Manta Compact fan shroud gantry plate that's compatible with the first and second versions.
   - Print using 4 walls, 30-40% gyroid infill. PETG is a must.
   - Hotend adapter will also require 2 M3 nuts and 2 M3x22mm
   - [Manta Compact Fan Shroud](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4337266)
   - Sherpa Mini Mounting brackets for the first version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4937471
   - [Manta Compact Fan Shroud MK2](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943125)
   - When using the Manta Compact fan shroud, you'll need a new end-stop limit switch with a 50mm arm: AMZ Product ID: B07ZVJD1GC


5/5/2021
- Added X-Axis Linear Rail - MGN9H Block Mount - V3. It's a 3 point mount to further add rigidity. You will need an additional M5x6 button head screw. **I recommend using this over the other two versions.**

4/20/2021
- Added longer center L bracket for even visual appearance. There are three screw holes but using two should suffice.
- Added a thicker V2 MGN9H adapter block. It's 10mm thick and should be plenty rigid. Print this with 100% infill with 4 lines wall with support touching build plate for the notch between the two M5 screw holes.
- Added MGN9H dial gauge mount that has 9.5mm collar. handy for manually leveling the bed

**END EDIT**

This is part of my attempt to remove the use of v-wheels from the Anycubic Mega Zero. For this mod you will need the following parts:

**Needed Parts**
- (1) 350mm MGN9H - 300mm should work as well but 350mm is easier to align without risking the pillow block flying off the rail. If you buy cheap MGN clones, make sure to take them apart and clean the dirty grease and lube with lithium grease or other thin synthetic greases. I am currently using Krytox 105 since this is what I have on hand. Seems to work fine, but Krytox isn't exactly cheap.
- (6) M5 T nut with M5x6mm screws for the rail mounts
- (2) M5x6mm hex button head screws for the hot-end plate / MGN9H adapter. (3) M5x6mm if you are using V3.
- (4) M3x8mm hex socket cap screws for the hot-end plate adapter
- (10) M3x6mm hex socket cap screws for the linear rail

**Installation**
1) Disassemble the x-axis assembly and attach the pillow block adapter to the hot-end plate using 2 M5x6mm button head screws. Either pretap the M5 screw holes or increase the bore size using a 4.5mm drill bit. The holes are designed with 4.5mm bore size which should work if printing with PETG but there might be slight shrinkage with PLA.
2) Attach the M5 t-nuts and screws to the linear rail mounts. Make sure to place the x-axis belt on the 2020 extrusion before mounting the linear rail mounts.
3) Align the linear rails to the mount and use the M3x6mm screws to loosely screw down the rail in place. You want the screw cap to be flushed with the rail in order to slide the pillow block around and check for binding. Don't tighten it yet since you will need to make small alignment adjustments so that the pillow block doesn't rub against the x-axis to z-axis mounting plates on either ends. It's a very tight tollerance with only about .2mm gap.
4) Tighten the M5 screws for the linear rail mounting brackets.
5) Tighten the M3 screws to secure the rail to the mounting brackets. Continue to move the pillow block around during this process to make sure alignment hasn't changed.
6) Attach the hot-end plate to the pillow block using the 4 M3x8mm screws. Finger tight should be fine. Don't over tighten and don't use screws longer than 8mm. 6mm might work as well.
7) Rerun Z-offset calibration

Anycubic Mega Zero X-Axis Linear Rail

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4931111.

**EDIT**:

9/23/2021

- Added flexure lead screw bearing block alternative to the remixed bearing block. The flexure design allows room for the leadscrew tip to wobble and hopefully prevent the deflection force from translating into the x-gantry and cause z-banding patterns.

**End EDIT**


This mod swaps v-wheels for linear rails and supports dual lead screws. The lead screw mounts also feature a flexure design to help mitigate z-banding (modified from a design by [@amtech](https://www.thingiverse.com/amtech/designs) [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4806806](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4806806)

The mounting plate was remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4804383 by @djos_1475.

I assume that you are currently using dual lead screws already and if you are not then you will need to procure a secondary leadscrew and motor as well as research hot to connect the secondary motor. I am currently using an SKR Mini MZ and it supports 2 z-axis motors connected in parallel.

This mod does not support mounting the extruder on the x-axis. You will need to remount the extruder up top by the spool holder or swap to a direct drive. The stock motor cable should be long enough to reach (at least on my machine).

I don't have the dimensions for the Anycubic Mega Zero V2 but as long as the gap between the z-plates are 27mm then this will work.

**Testing comments**:
I've also made a mod that uses linear rods for the Z-axis (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817790). There are photos with test prints comparing the two. In short, I do think the linear rail is slightly better and more consistent. I am also using TR8x2 instead of TR8x8 lead screws (stock). Wobble is much more difficult to address with TR8x2 due to the aggressive pitch. I'm pretty happy with the result. As to which you want to try? It depends on your budget.

Other remixed parts included in project:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4797901 NEMA motor mounts 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3326157 Lead Screw support 


**BOM**:
(8) - [M3x20mm](https://shorturl.at/gmyBF) cap head screws (For securing lead screw assembly and MGN12 mount)
(8) - [M3 nuts](https://shorturl.at/gmyBF)
(20) - [M3x6mm cap head screws](https://shorturl.at/gmyBF) (For securing MGN12 to frame and MGN12 Mount)
(4) - [M5x40mm](https://shorturl.at/mCSX9) button head screws (For the spacers for the outer 2 wheels on each side, 4 total).
(2) - [MGN12H](https://shorturl.at/tyCG5) @ 300mm linear rails
(12) [M3 T-Slot Nut](https://shorturl.at/dknGH) (MGN12 Mounting - space them evenly)

Flexure Lead Screw Bearing Blocks:
(2) 688zz bearings
(8) M3x10mm screws - Use M3x8mm screws if you're not going to put the lid on top.
(4) M4 t-nut
(4) M4x30mm

Things to print:
(1) Z-Axis Linear Rail Plate - LEFT.stl
(1) Z-Axis Linear Rail Plate - RIGHT.stl
(2) Z-Axis Linear Rail Lead Screw Flexure.stl
(2) Z-Axis Linear Rail MGN12 Block.stl
(4) Z-Axis Linear Rail Spacers.stl
(1) Linear_Rail_25mm_Spacer.stl
(2) Motor_Mount_-_with_alignment_guide.stl

Lead Screw Bearing Blocks:
(2) Top_Bearing_Block_-_with_alignment_guide.stl
(2) Top_Bearing_Block_Cap.stl

OR

(2) Flexure Bearing Block Top.3mf
(2) Flexure Bearing Block Base.3mf
(2) Flexure Bearing Block Lid.3mf (Optional)


(2) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2368837 MGN12 alignment helper

All parts are to be printed in default orientation without support with 3-4 wall @ at least 30% gyroid infill. I recommend using PETG and of course PC-ABS if your printer is in an enclosure.

There is a sacrificial layer in the Z-Axis Linear Rail Plates for the M3 screws and nuts that mounts the lead screw assembly

When installing the MGN12 rail, make sure that there is a 25mm gap from the top of the Z-axis.

**Installation**:
1. Attach the flexure lead screw assembly to the backplates using M3 nuts and M3x20mm. This needs to be done first since you will not have access to the M3 screws once the plates are mounted.
2. Clean out the sacrificial layer in the Top Bearing blocks and insert M3 nuts into the slots.
3. Remove your lead screw.
4. Disassemble your X-axis and remove the wheels, metal spacers, eccentric nuts, and the M5 screws for the wheels. 
5. There are four M5 screws that are holding the metal plates to the 2020 extrusion. You will need to remove two of the inner M5 screws (one on each side) and reuse them later on the MGN12 mount block.
6. Using four Z-Axis Linear Rail Spacers and four M5x40mm screws and existing M5 nylock nutes, loosely attach the back plates to the metal plates. You are replacing the two outer wheels on each side with these spacers.
7. Add M3x6mm and T-nuts to the linear rails. Each rail will use six sets and you can even them out to your liking. Make sure to leave the rail lock nub so the MGN12 block doesn't fall out when mounting. You will most likely lose bearing balls if this happens. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH SUBSEQUENT STEPS.
8. Place the 25mm Linear rail spacer flushed with the top of the frame and attach your MGN12 rail. Once it's attached, you can use the MGN12 alignment helper to realign the rails and tighten them. Don't over tighten since the T-nuts will bend the v-slot. Finger tight should be fine. Repeat this step for the other side.
9. Remove the top 2020 extrusion and lower the loosely assembled gantry in place. Use a roll of 2-inch packaging tape support the gantry on the printer bed.
10. Attach the two printed Z-Axis Linear Rail MGN12 Block to the MGN12 block using four M3x6mm screws on each side. Don't forget to add the two M3 nuts on each of these.
11. Align the MGN12 block to the backplate and insert the two M3x20mm and loosely secure.
12. Using the two M5 screws removed in Step 5, attach the MGN12 mounting block to the metal plate.
13. Secure the rest of the screws to tighten the gantry in place.
14. Reinstall the top 2020 extrusion and the Bearing block. Make sure to align the outer marker of the bearing block to the edge of the 2020 extrusion.
15. Remove the old motors and install the new motor blocks and make sure to align the outer wall of the markers to the 2040 extrusion.
16. Slide the gantry up and down to make sure it's smooth and does not bind. Use the MGN12 alignment helper to adjust your linear rail.
17. Install your lead screw, double-check that all cables are reattached properly. Remove the stopper nubs from the linear rails. While homing, stay near the printer to turn it off at the first sign of an issue and readjust. Don't forget to calibrate your nozzle z-offset. 

**NOTE:** 300mm MGN12 will work perfectly with this with a few millimeters to spare if aligned properly (25mm from the top). I believe (I haven't actually tested this) 350mm will work as well but space will be very tight with the print bed. You won't need to have a 25mm gap at the top with 350mm rails, but you will need to make sure that you using stock print bed dimensions.

When reinstalling your lead screw, I've found that adding a 4mm ball bearing to sit between the lead screw and motor shaft does an amazing job with flexible couplers in stopping vertical compression and wobble issues. Check out this video for more details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zI-Fb8uTTKs


Anycubic Mega Zero Z-Axis Linear Rail

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817790.

Check out my other design for x-axis linear rail for the Mega Zero: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4830265

https://youtu.be/EMDsv_4jz4s

This is part of a series of mod designs for the Mega Zero V1, here are others mods I've designed:
- [MGN9 X-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4830265)
- [MGN12 Y-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4903945)
- [Sherpa Mini Direct Drive Mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843855)
- [Magnetic Lead Screw Anti-Wobble](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790439)

**EDIT 4**
8/9/2021
Added new design that uses a flexure lead screw nut mount created by @amtech [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4806806](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4806806). This should add built-in wobble compensation. When using this, also take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zI-Fb8uTTKs. It works when used in combination with flexible or disc couplers. It will prevent slopping issues.

You will need 4 m3x20 cap head screws and 4 m3 nuts to install the flexure plates. I am currently using this right now and the result is just as good as the add-on magnetic anti-wobble solutions. 

Print these parts with 3 walls and at least 30% gyroid infill. Make sure that your perimeter width setting is set to 0.45mm (this is the default on PrusaSlicer). This will result in 2 walls for the flexure arms. The original design is 0.43mm for the flexure arms and one wall is not strong enough for this mounting style.

It's very important to square your frame and mounted parts (NEMA motor and the top bearing blocks / linear rod mounts. Otherwise, this will skew the flexure alignment and render them useless.

**END EDIT 4**

**EDIT 3**:
8/5/2021
Added V4 and removed the rest of the old files. Fixed issue with lead screw nut alignment.

**End EDIT 3**

**EDIT 2**:

5/6/2021
Added LM8UU Mount V3 left and right. Lead screw nut has been moved up and space widen for compatibility with my [Compact Z-Axis Magnetic anti-wobble dampener V2](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790439)

If you are experiencing z-banding, consider giving this coupler a try. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922542 I've had really good results with this so far and it out performs a lot of cheap coupler solutions I've tried with bent lead screws.

**End EDIT 2**

**EDIT 1**:

Added LM8UU Mount V2 Left and Right that is one piece with slots for m3 nuts and m3x12mm or zip tie. The slot should be a good fit and fasteners not really needed. I personally prefer this design over the screwed-in halves.

Print with default orientation with support touching build plate only. I recommend 70% gyroid infill for PLA.

Also updated spacing with original LM8UU mount and narrowed the LM8UU slot.

**END of EDIT 1**

I did not include an extruder mount in the design since I am trying to reduce the weight on the gantry as well as the Z Axis. My extruder has been moved to the top using this piece: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3248350

The idea behind this is to get rid of the wheels on the Mega Zero (should work with Ender 3 as well) for the Z-axis and use LM8UU bearings and rods instead. The linear rods will be sitting to the side of the motors held in place by the motor mounts and top end-caps that also provide bearing support for the lead screws should you want to take that approach. The lead screw bearings are not needed and have been known to reflect wobble into the x-axis.

Is this swap necessary? Definitely not if you're happy with the current print quality. Personally, I really hate the eccentric nut adjustment, and also the wheels are fairly expensive compared to LM8UU or Drylin linear guides. At least in my case, when adjusting the eccentric nuts, I see it move the z-plate and the lead screw along with it. After swapping to this mod, I do notice a benefit to using TR8x2 instead of TR8x8. Prior with v-wheels and TR8x2, it was still difficult to get an accurate z-offset value. I think the v-wheels were not translating the micro-movements of the TRx2.

If you do not want to replace both sides, I do think it's worth printing for the non-extruder (right) side if you're only using one lead screw. With the wheel setup and just one leadscrew, there's a movement lag on the right side when the gantry moves up and down. The linear rod should allow for more responsive movement with less friction (in theory).

All parts were made by remixing a few items:
- The frame mount base plate https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4804383 by @djos_1475. I used the based plate shape.
- The motor mount uses @djos_1475's https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4797901. The center hole has been widen a bit more to make sure that any thick couplers will have clearance.
- The top mount / bearing block was remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3326157

**Dimensions:**
The lead screw and linear rods are parallel and 30mm from center to center. The lead screw nut mount is 12.25mm from the edge of the base, which puts the lead screw 13.50mm from the edge (edge to edge). The wheel spacer is 27mm, which means that there is a 3.5mm gap from the fame to the base of the z mounting plate (17mm from the edge of the frame to the edge of the lead screw, 21mm if we're measuring from the edge of the frame to the middle of the lead screw). The motor mount has the motor sitting flushed with the frame so it's 21mm to the center of the motor and should match with the lead screw.

**You will need the following parts:**
2x 380mmx8mm linear rod. I would not go shorter than 380mm.


**Frame mount:**
4x M3x6, 8 max - LM8UU Mount
2x M3x10 or 12mm for leadscrew nut

Above screws are not necessary when using V2 plates. The fit should be sign enough to hold the linear bearings in place.

4x LM8UU or Drylin RJ4JP-01-08
3x M5x40 for the non-extruder side since the spacer is 27mm to match the extruder side.


40% support infill should be fine. I recommend 70% gyroid for rigidity.

**Top Mount and bearing block (optional parts are needed if you want it secure lead screw):**
2x 688ZZ bearing - optional
2x M5x20 bolt (M4 Works)
2x M5 T-nut (M4 Works)
4x M3x8 - optional (4x M3 nut as well)
1x M3x6
1x M3 nuts

**Motor mount:**
1x M3x6
1x M3 Nut
2x M3x16
2x M3x8

40% support infill should be fine. I recommend 70% gyroid for rigidity.

**Spacer**
These are 27mm in length (for Mega Zero) and should match the current setup with the two 8mm spacers and wheel. You'll need to print 6. I recommend 50% or higher infill. You will need 3 new M5x40mm screws as mentioned above for the frame mount. Reuse the nylock nuts. These spacers are extra thick 14mm in diameter to sit over the groove created by the eccentric nut (that thing usually digs into the aluminum plate). 

**Secondary lead screw**
I swapped from using TR8x8 to TR8x2 and buying two new Nema 17 motors. The stepper wires are in parallel so you will need to increase the current for the z-stepper in Marlin. I am using SKR Mini MZ and the board has TMC2209 which has a peak of 2A. I am currently using 1.6A and each motor should be receiving 800mA.

Moving to TR8x2 will require a decrease in feed rate as the motor will need to do more work per revolution (from 400 to 1600 steps per rev from TR8x8 to TR8x2). You will need to decrease speed in order to maintain torque, or else you will experience slipping. Additionally, dual z-lead screws will require better couplers. A lot of people opt for flexible spider (aka jaw) couplers but I found that there is a lot of low quality sold on amazon and the good to great quality couplers are extremely expensive and harder to find. I have tested several solutions and helical and disc couplers should be avoided. While these are flexible, they also allow for compression which can cause slops and z-lag. What this means is that when the printer makes small movements upward or downward during a z-hop, one side could move more than the other. It really comes down to even friction (or lack there of) on both linear rods. This would be a problem with linear rails as well as you will have one side bind (I may be wrong but with the tight tolerance of linear rails, this would be more apparent). Spider, oldham, and solid couplers work well as there is no compression in the vertical position while allowing for lateral movement. I am currently using these 3d printed couplers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922542 which yield amazing results for being low cost and easily sourced. You should print these first and try them out before buying other couplers. It's also a good idea to shop around for quality lead screws as the cheap ones on Amazon and Aliexpress create a lot of headaches (not that their aren't good ones available for competitive prices, you might need to test out several). Good couplers really do compensate for this. 


**Alignment guide**

The motor mounts and bearing blocks have two notches on top. These notches are 40mm apart (outer edge of one to the outer edge of the other). Use this to align the motor mount and bearing block to match the Z-pillars.

Anycubic Mega Zero Dual Z Linear rod swap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4756591.

Pimoroni Trackball mount for Sofle Keyboard.

**EDIT 7/29**

Added short and wider mount with trackball offset for more comfortable finger placement. Comes in left and right-hand mount orientation.

**EDIT 7/24**

Added a shorter mount so that it clears the wiring pins. 4.75 mm shorter.

**END EDIT**

You  will need (4) M2 6+3mm Male-Female Standoffs and (4) M2 4mm Screws

For details on wiring and firmware: https://github.com/foureight84/sofle-keyboard-pimoroni

My other designs for the Sofle Keyboard:
Base: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4755855
Skirt: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754454
MCU and OLED Housing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4784085

Sofle Keyboard Pimoroni Trackball Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790439.

There's been a few of these popping up on Thingiverse and the idea is based on MirageC's work https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqSQhwqSzvg. I've gone and made my own for the Anycubic Mega Zero since the ones available so far are far too big.

Here's a video of these: https://youtu.be/MiLdzWd_OEo

They are meant for 16mm lead screw nuts. Let me know if you need 18mm mounting holes. I have been using this in combination with this [printable coupler](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922542).

This is part of a series of mod designs for the Mega Zero V1, here are others mods I've designed:
- [MGN9 X-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4830265)
- [MGN12 Y-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4903945)
- [Dual Lead Screw Linear Rods Z-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817790)
- [Sherpa Mini Direct Drive Mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843855)

**EDIT V3:**
Much thinner version for 6x3mm magnets. Overall thickness is 3.50mm. There are lips around the bottom of the magnet slots. The idea is to have these sides of the two halves facing each other with ball bearings in between. The lip will prevent the magnet from pulling one another apart during removal. 

I highly recommend printing these with PETG rather than with PLA. Also, the magnets can be difficult to insert. Use a flat thick metal tool placed over the magnet while pressing down with your thumb. It's designed to be a snug fit so that superglue is not needed and the magnets can be reused.

I've been using 1.5mm bearing balls and they have been working fine. 3mm balls are probably pushing it a bit. The larger the gap, the weaker the magnetic force and you will end up with the bottom half twist and cause estep loss. Make sure to lube as well, since that's a sign of binding caused by friction. The bottom shouldn't twist more than ~5 degrees at most. Pay attention that if there's twisting on one side then it should also occur on the other side. If one side twists while the other does not, then lube the twisting side.

You also don't need to use anti-backlash lead screw nuts. Just replace the brass nuts with POM nuts. 

**End EDIT V3**

**EDIT V2:**

Added a round version with 6 magnets per side. 4 will receive bearing balls and the two protruding without. The two magnets are meant to help the pieces realign / aid lateral movement instead of spin with the lead screw.

**END EDIT V2**


You will need: 

(12) 6x3mm neodymium magnets.
(4) 1.5 - 3mm ball bearing. I pulled mine from an LM8UU linear ball bearing guide.
(2) 8mm M3 nut for the lead screw.
(2) 8-10mm M3 nut for the top piece depending on the thickness of your Z bracket plate.

I haven't had a chance to test these since I am out of the right size m3 screws. They are intended to be screwed in directly and no need for m3 nuts. But in the meantime, if anyone else has available parts and wants to give them a try, please feel free and feedback would be greatly appreciated.




Compact Z-Axis Magnetic Wobble Dampener

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4937471.

This is a remix of the [
Manta Compact Fan Duct & Tool Change System](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4403017)'s direct-drive standoffs to support the Sherpa mini extruder.

 Manta Compact Sherpa Mini Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4903945.

This mod uses 2 MGN12 with 3 MGN12H carriage blocks to replace the existing Y-Axis linear rods on the Anycubic Mega Zero. The mod reuses all existing factory M4 nuts and mount locations to preserve bed height. If anyone wants to use 2 MGN12H blocks instead of 3, let me know and I will make an additional mount. However, I strongly suggest using 3 as it will insure bed stability.

You do not need to support the MGN12 rails. They are plenty stiff. Do not attempt to use MGN9 C/H. You'll be 3mm too short in the Z direction and the MGN9 rails are not as stiff and will require support.

**---Edit---**
**9/13/2021**
- Added djos_1475's Mounting spacer for the MGN12 rail mount. This is supposed to go under the 4020 extrusion to add additional support. See images https://imgur.com/gallery/9aTykbo

**9/11/2021**
- Added MGN12 Adapter block that supports heated inserts. For the best result use the brass inserts with a flat end like these https://shorturl.at/dfwNX (also see photo).

**---End Edit---**

This is part of a series of mod designs for the Mega Zero V1, here are others mods I've designed:
- [MGN9 X-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4830265)
- [Dual Lead Screw Linear Rods Z-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817790)
- [Sherpa Mini Direct Drive Mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843855)
- [Magnetic Lead Screw Anti-Wobble](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790439)

**BOM**:
(24) M3x8mm Hex Cap Screws - (8) for MGN12, (16) for attaching y-carriage adapter to MGN12H blocks.
(8) M3 Nylock nuts
(2) 400mm MGN12 Rails
(3) MGN12H Carriage Blocks
(12) [M3 Brass Heated Inserts](https://shorturl.at/dfwNX) for heated insert block version.

Reuse M4 nuts on the y-carriage and linear rod mount.

**Parts to Print**:
(2) Linear Rail Front Y-Axis.stl
(2) Linear Rail Back Y-Axis.stl
(3) Linear Rail Y-Carriage Adapter.stl

**Printing**:
All parts should be printed using PETG @ 0.2mm layer height with 4 walls and 40% gyroid infill. 

If you are planning on operating the printer in an enclosure then use a printing service such as Treatstock to print the parts using polycarbonate (ABS-PC / PC-ABS). Otherwise, PETG or ABS will work just fine. The screws will not conduct enough heat to warp the parts.

**Installation**:

- The MGN12 front and back mounts are designed to swap places with the existing linear rod mounts. Make sure to clean out the sacrificial layer before attaching the mounts to your MGN12 rails.
- Use an M4 tapping bit or an M4 screw to cut threads into the y-carriage adapter's M4 slots. These screw holes are on the raised ridges.
- When attaching the front and back mounts, make sure to check fitment. For my 400m MGN12, one side has an 11mm space from the last screw hole to edge, while the other has around 10.5 to 10.8mm space. The 11mm side should be facing the front as it will sit flushed with the mount. This might vary depending on where you are buying your linear rails. I don't know if there's a standard that these are cut. I recommend using nylock nuts to secure the MGN12 rails to the mounts to prevent screws from becoming loose due to vibration.
- Follow photos to correctly orient the y-carriage adapters when attaching to the MGN12H carriage blocks. The flat ends should be facing each other in order to maximize and preserve the bed's movement in the negative y-direction.
- Loosely secure the MGN12 rails to the frame.
- Attach the y-carriage mount and ensure squareness by pulling the bed all the way to the front and tighten a few M4 screws to secure and then the rest after.
- Slide the y-carriage back and forth making sure the MGN12H blocks are not binding. Tighten the M4 screws on either end of the rail mounts while continuing to check for binding. Do not over-torque. Finger tight should be sufficient.




AnyCubic Mega Zero V1 Y-Axis MGN12 Linear Rails

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843855.

Inspired by a design by [@calvin_megazero](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4841439) for a direct drive mount. This should be compatible with [@calvin_megazero](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4771559)'s remix for the [Petsfang fan assembly](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4771559).

https://youtu.be/bGszZp_2sEU

This is part of a series of mod designs for the Mega Zero V1, here are others mods I've designed:
- [MGN9 X-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4830265)
- [MGN12 Y-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4903945)
- [Dual Lead Screw Linear Rods Z-Axis](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817790)
- [Magnetic Lead Screw Anti-Wobble](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790439)

**EDIT 6/4/2021**

There was a slight clearance issue with the cable management tie-down point with the Petsfang shroud. I've uploaded a slightly modified version to fit should you want to use the Petsfang fans.

**END OF EDIT**

Use 2 M3 screws and nuts to secure Sherpa Mini to mount. I believe M3x8mm or M3x10mm will work.

To secure the mount to the plate, a 2mm width zip tie should work.

Print with the part on its side in order to not need support.

Anycubic Mega Zero Sherpa Mini Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754454.

This sandwich skirt was designed to snap on between the PCB and the bottom case layer. The intention is to improve rigidity and help prevent the PCB and switches around the edges from disconnecting. There are two sets, one for 8mm standoffs and another for 7mm standoffs.


This was made for version 1.1 of the PCB design using Kailh hotswap sockets (indents in the skirt allows it to slide over Kaillh mounts on the underside of the PCB).

My other designs for the Sofle Keyboard:
Base: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4755855
Pimoroni Trackball Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4756591
MCU and OLED Housing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4784085

Sofle Keyboard v1.1 Skirt

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4972731.

Lead screw bearing block using flexure designs to allow the lead screw some room to deflect and dampening that force from translating to the gantry and help mitigate z-wobble.

This mounts to the top 2020 extrusion. If you're using the stock lead screw then flip the block upside down.

Lid is optional. Use (4) M3x8mm screws if not using lid. (4) M3x10mm with lid

BOM:
(2) 688zz bearings
(8) M3x10mm screws - Use M3x8mm screws if you're not going to use the lid on top.
(4) M4 t-nut
(4) M4x30mm



Anycubic Mega Zero Lead Screw Support Bearing Block

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948107.

This is a remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4740153 for the Mega Zero v1/v2. It uses a tire gauge to help with manual bed leveling. This mounts to the x-limit switch slot. You'll need to remove the limit switch before mounting.

BOM:
[Tire Depth Gauge](https://shorturl.at/fjI39)

[Optional](https://shorturl.at/gmyBF):
(2) M3 Nuts
(1) M3x12mm
(1) M3x8mm 

Print using 3 walls, 30% gyroid infill, no support needed, default orientation. M3 screws and nuts are optional since the gauge will fit snug and will not move.

Anycubic Mega Zero Depth Gauge

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