Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1357140.

Update: 25/05/2021

-Hinged Extruder body 1.2 filament path after drive gear tapered for easier filament insertion
-Fitting block 1.2 alignment correction

Update:  30/10/2020

New Extruder with Hinged Lever for overall better reliability and ease of use.
Also new knob with thicker hub.

Hinged Extruder body.stl
lever.stl
manual feed knob.stl

Hinged Extruder.scad  for customization

NOTE: STL FILE INCLUDED IS FOR EXTRUDER GEAR DRIVE WITH 8MM OD (gear_diameter=8;)

PLEASE CHANGE THE VALUE in the first variable  in the SCAD file >>   gear_diameter    if you have a bigger drive gear. 

gear_diameter= [your gear OD size];




Update: 3/17/2016
Added Counterweight Suspension System for the Flying Extruder to minimize additional load on the stepper motors.  This makes the whole extruder virtually weightless.  Please print new_plate.  This moves the suspension point at the center of gravity of the motor and is adjustable.   Check out new files and video.  Thanks!

You will need a slightly longer bowden tube since you will raise the extruder. Get rid of the old knob and replace it with a M3x25mm screw and washer and cut a piece of rubber tubing to act as a spring to push the lever on to the filament.

----

Flying Extruder kit for the Kossel Mini.  Can be used with any delta as well.
See video below to see it in action.

I would like to give credit to WASProject of Italy for their Suspended Bowden from which I derived the design for this Flying Extruder. http://www.wasproject.it/w/bowden-sospeso-di-wasproject/﻿



DO NOT print plug.stl  It is used for the SCAD file, for "tapping" a 1/8 BSPT thread.  If your fitting is different, use this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:227192 to make a different plug.

SCAD files are included for your customization.
(Nema 17.scad file is from Johann's Kossel Mini files)

You'll need:
M3 x 16mm screws for the nipples
M3 x 35mm screw for idler adjust
M3 flat washer to insert in slot at back of extruder body
M3 nut to insert at bottom of back of extruder body (to mate with idler adjust screw)
M3 x 24mm x 3 screws for mounting motor
M3 x 12mm x 2 or similar course thread screws to fix plate to body
Clear epoxy or CA to glue fitting block to body
Bearing 16x5x5 for idler
Bolt M5 x 16mm for idler hub (A simple 5mm dia x 20mm rod will also do. I used a 5mm rivet)
3/16" ID x 100mm x 3 rubber tubing for suspending the plate to the nipples

If you like it and find it useful, I'd appreciate a small tip.   https://paypal.me/boksbox/1USD

Flying Extruder for Kossel Mini (Deltas)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4656443.

Rendered Tada3 's honeycomb lampshade to a customizable OpensCAD file

Feel free to customize the lampshade with your preferred dimensions
You can also download the .scad file to edit it using OpensCAD 
or the .xml file and upload to to BlocksCAD >
or edit directly here > 
https://www.blockscad3d.com/community/projects/1053562

base = true;  <-  change to false if you don't want to use it as a hanging lamp
base_hole = 20;  <- change hole radius with your hanging light socket
base_thick = 3;  <-  thickness of the lamp base
cylinder_radius = 75;  <- outer radius of the shade (minimum  = 60)
cylinder_height = 100;  <- approximate height of the shade based on the number of "cells"
wall_thickness = 10;  <- thickness of the cylinder wall
cell_thickness = 1;  <-thickness of each hexagonal cell (two cells side by side doubles this)
segments = 30; <- how many cells around the circumference of the cylinder 



Customizable Honeycomb Lampshade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1374248.

Compact Print Cooling Shroud for the E3D V6 or lite6.  

Fins inside shroud direct cooling air to nozzle. 
Heat block is coated with high-temp silicone rubber to insulate and protect the shroud from heat.
Also, the hotend cooling fan is installed to draw air out instead of blowing it into the heat-sink.  Much more effective cooling this way.
Printed in PLA. 

Blower for print cooling is 40 x 40 x 20 mm centrifugal type.  
The bracket fits regular Kossel Mini end effectors.  
SCAD file is included for your customization.
Hotend CAD mockup http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:341689
Thanks lXGaimMasterXl !!

Fan Shroud for Print Cooling

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5037013.
For 2 and 3mm drill bits
I needed a drill bit handle for enlarging small holes for something like this [Retrograde Clock](https://youtu.be/1zD8hInFHxw)

Requires
2 x 3mm x 12mm hex socket head bolts (allen bolts)e
1 x 3mm x 8mm hex socket head bolts
3 x 3mm hex nuts
3 x 3mm spring washers (optional)

Buy me coffee, https://paypal.me/boksbox

Pin Vise

2mm Pin Vise

Pin_Vise_2.0.stl

Pin_Vise_3.0.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4872711.

Those rails on walls of a tatami room are can serve as a sort of french cleat.  So I designed a hook that you can just plop on there.

I made a split-in-half version where you won't need supports but will have to glue the pair using superglue.  Holes are provided so you can insert alignment pins.  Use 5mm length of 1.75 filament as pins.  Whole unsplit version also inlcuded and needs support on the "hook" end.



Tatami Room Hook

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4965493.

Small access panel for drywall panels 9.5mm thick.

Cut out size is 80 x 120 mm

All stls are already oriented correctly and ready to print as is.

1.  Assemble the cover + tabs
Insert  1.75mm filament (alignment pins) into holes on tab,  leave about 1mm proturding at both sides. Align and insert the protruding pins on the holes on the cover.  When ready, remove and reassemble CA glue to bond permanently.

2.  Assemble frame + frame tabs
See image as for orientation of the frame tabs.  Apply CA glue to bond permanently.

3.  Installing the frame 
Insert the frame on to the drywall cutout.  Place the back frame inside the wall. Note the flat side of the back frame faces the drywall.  Align it with the frame and push the frame tabs to latch on to the back frame.

4.  Snap cover on.  
To remove cover, insert a flat screw driver in the cover cutouts and pry open.



Small Access Panel

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2122851.

Inspired by MontagueFlange's http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2118083 ,  for the longest time thinking about how to design a simple but elegant toilet paper holder, I finally made this.

Just cut a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe to length to hold the roll.  
Since there is only one screw, stick a double sided tape to the back of the brackets to prevent them from twisting when mounted.
Install as shown in the picture.

Enjoy!




Yet Another Toilet Paper Roll Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1481725.

Use a small diameter rod bent 90 degrees at one end (35mm) as spool holder.  Install bracket first then insert rod into bracket as shown in picture.  
Hub adapter is slightly larger than spool center hole and is designed so it can be sqeezed to fit snugly.  Print in pairs.

Included STL for bracket uses 1/4 inch rod with 15mm radius bend.  Mounting holes are for 3mm screws.
Included STL for hub adapter is for spools with a 52-56mm diameter center hole.

SCAD file included for your customization.


Spool Holder With Hub Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845128.

Simple twist design.

Shade for pendant lamp.  Fits Ikea Hemma Light Cord Set or other pendant lamp holders with nut mounting.  Included stl file has a center hole of 40mm diameter.

Included scad file is parametric.
You can customize it with Customizer. 
Or download the inlcuded scad file and edit with OpenSCAD.

Keiko's Pendant Lamp Shade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1657519.

Boom for the common photography lamp stand.

I used 1/2" curtain rod.   The ball size on the stand is 14mm.
SCAD files included for your customization.

You will need:  
M3x 24 bolt and nut for the clamp.
M3x10 bolt, washers and nut for the counterweight.

Fit bottle cap on counterweight piece and drill a 3mm hole in the middle of the cap.  Screw head side goes into the piece and nut goes to the cap.  Place washers on both ends.  Screw tightly before gluing to the boom.

Updated shade here >  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1766216


Boom for Stand Lamp

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1366031.

Belt Clamp with integrated Tensioner  for GT2 belts

Thanks to JC Doll with his algorithm for generating toothed pulleys as belt clips.  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:117987

OpenSCAD file included for your customization

M3 x 12mm allen cap screw x1
M3 nut x 1

Belt Clamp + Tensioner

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2635011.

Lamp shade to fit regular E27 bulb receptacle.
Included stl fits 3-1/2in or 88mm diameter receptacle base.

Print Shade.stl in Spiral Vase mode with 0.5mm extrusion width with no solid bottom.
Shade snap fits into Base.  Apply super glue to permanently fix.
Base goes between wall/ceiling surface and receptacle can fit in slot at the bottom of the base.
Use Customizer to change dimensions.  
OpenSCAD file included for your customization

Lamp Socket Shade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635648.

Update 7/31/2016:
I added a small piece (underbarrel.stl) to glue under the barrel to make it look more like the original.

--------
This is a 3D printed remix of RBguns' Stepup action rubber band gun.  His video can be found on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLb-8ofC3Zk
Trigger mechanism has been simplified.
Trigger springs forward naturally by the tension of the ammunition.  Trigger won't return when gun is empty. Time to reload.

This is a small gun so it won't hurt little kids.  Scale up for big boys.

Print parts.
Insert trigger into main body.  Make sure it glides smoothly.  Try with cover on.  Sand if necessary.  
Glue cover on and underbarrel.  

Feel free to modify or remix the model >  https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8AiODbNQrNw

Enjoy!



Mini Rubber Band Gun

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1321255.

For making polvoron, a Filipino sweet treat.
Just in time for Valentines.

Assemble as shown and glue rod to piston.

If you like it and find it useful, I'd appreciate a small tip. https://paypal.me/boksbox/1USD

Heart-shaped Polvoron Mold

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2168952.

Uses Philippine 1 Peso coins x 12 (24mm diameter) as weights.

Designed with OnShape. Customize using link below.
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/7b57fb6b9bd716bdca414cff/w/044e8e0a12365ccd392e7957/e/b972b38bb6e7b5e74de48ca8

Coin Fidget Spinner (Philippine 1 Peso coins)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1766216.

Lamp shade for common E27 lamp holder with 33mm diameter threaded end.

Print shade2.stl using vase mode with no top/bottom.
The shade will snap on to base2 to fit.   Apply CA glue to make it permanent.

Screw on to lamp holder.  

This is an updated shade for my boom lamp http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1657519

Lamp Shade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1381166.

Magnetic Mounting Tabs for Glass Printbed.   Goodbye clips!
Steel balls make single-point contact on glass for consistent positioning everytime.

STL file included is for the Kossel Mini: 
15mm aluminum extrusion 
13mm dia x 2.5mm x 6 neodymium magnets 
1/4 inch steel balls x 3 
170mm diameter sheet glass

Customize according to your own machine using the included SCAD file.

It is essential that only the steel balls should touch the bottom of the glass plate when mounted.  

Glue the balls and tab magnets first.  Install the tabs on your machine.  
The balls should be higher than the two magnets (plus a small gap) stuck to each other.
   
To make sure there is a thin gap between magnets, place a shim (2-3 sheets of paper) cut to shape to fit on top of the tab magnet. This ensures there will be a gap between the two magnets.  

Stick the second magnet on top of the tab magnet, sandwiching the shim.  
Try placing the glass on this setup.  The glass should be slightly higher than the balls, barely touching them. If not, add more shims.  

Then you can glue the glass on top of the second set of magnets.  When the glue dries and you remove the shims, only the balls should be touching the bottom of the glass plate.





Magnetic Glass Print Bed Holder Tabs

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1660307.

Customized version of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1657791

Created with Customizer! http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=1657791



My Customized Ambiguous Cylinder Generator

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1365661.

Update to my Kossel Mini Carriage http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:627955.  
Added more bulk to belt clips and "horns" for more strength.

It uses belt clip design by incorporating a reoriented JC Doll's GT2 Belt Clip - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:117987

You can cut all three open belts to uniform length and install it as if it were a closed belt. No zip ties, no clamps.

OpenSCAD file included but you have to get the other support files from Johann's github repository - https://github.com/jcrocholl/kossel

Thanks, Johann Rocholl and JC Doll, for sharing your designs.

Kossel Mini Carriage R2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5155377.

Version 2 of my https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:658855 
I love my Kossel Mini because it's really fast. So fast, the top frame shakes like a jackhammer. To eliminate excessive shaking, I made these brackets to mount cross-braces to stiffen the frame.

I wanted to use 15mm extrusions but they're too expensive just to be used for bracing, instead I used cheap 19mm (3/4 inch) curtain rods. 

Fits 15mm extrusions on 600x240 Kossel Minis. 


Allen caps for mounting for each bracket:
2x M3x8 for mounting on extrusion
2x M3x16 for the clamp
4x M3 nuts

Kossel Mini Cross-brace Bracket v.2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4888672.

Those rails (kamoi) on walls of a tatami room can serve as a sort of french cleat . So I designed a hook that you can just plop on there.

Hang up to three hangers fo space saving!

Tatami Room Hanger Bracket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4886481.

Adjustable belt tensioner for the GT2-2mm belt.  Uses belt profile to grip on to belt.
Just slip it in opposite faces and adjust tension by tightening screw.
Uses M3 x 30mm allen cap screw or longer and 3mm nut

Belt profile was generated using the straight belt module from https://www.youmagine.com/designs/parametric-timing-belt-generator
Thanks Jeff Hertzberg!



Simple As Posible Belt Tensioner

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:627955.

UPDATE:  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1365661

Modified Kossel Mini Carriage belt clip design by incorporating a reoriented JC Doll's GT2 Belt Clip - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:117987  

You can cut all three open belts to uniform length and install it as if it were a closed belt. No zip ties, no clamps.  

OpenSCAD file included but you have to get the other support files from Johann's github repository - https://github.com/jcrocholl/kossel   

Thanks, Johann Rocholl and JC Doll, for sharing your designs.

Kossel Mini Carriage

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103847.

A mold to make your own silicone rubber sock for the E3D V6/Lite6 heater block. Insulating the heater block keeps the nozzle temperature stable, unaffected by the part cooling fan and other external temperature changes.

Print with 1 wall. Left and right side version included with cutout to allow exit of thermistor / heater cartridge wiring.

Prepare the mold by lining the inside with scotch tape (silicone rubber won't stick to scotch tape). Cut out tape covering the hole for the nozzle and heater cartridge wiring window.

Prepare the heater block.  Wrap the heater block with teflon tape (used by plumbers, silicone rubber also won't stick to teflon).  Make sure to cover the nozzle as well.  Press the teflon  on the area around the nozzle to shape it more or less like the nozzle itself.

Fill mold about 2/3 full with high-temperature RTV silicone rubber. Make sure the corners are filled properly.
High-temp RTV silicone rubber is available in auto-parts shops and they come in tubes.  Buy the highest temperature rating you can get.

Push the block into the mold until the nozzle cone goes through the hole and nozzle nut hits the bottom of the mold.  Make sure the nozzle tip comes out of the hole at the bottom of the mold.  Excess silicone rubber will go up the top side of the heater block.  Use an oiled spatula to shape the excess silicone rubber on to the top of the block.  Let dry for at least 12 hours before removing the mold.  You may have to break it open if it gets stuck.  Let cure for 24 hours before using.

Make sure to remove teflon tape covering the nozzle tip before using.  
Recalibrate PID settings.

Cured siliicone rubber sock can be removed from heater block if necessary.



Heater Block Silicone Rubber Sock Mold

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4806876.

My SD card is so hard to grip and remove from my controller so II made this a quick and simple SD card grip.  Just super-glue it to one side and done! 

Simple SD Card Grip 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1478242.

Cowling to cool stepper motors.  
Orient fan to draw air out.
stl file is for 49mm Nema 17 and 40mm axial fan.
SCAD file included for your customization



Stepper Motor Cowling

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4849937.

Update:  Added parametric OpenSCAD file > SAP temp tower.scad
Customize your temperature calibration tower via thingiverse's **Open in Customizer** or open the scad file in OpensCAD.
Be sure to edit the gcodes to match your customized tower

----

Simple 5mm temperature calibration tower for PLA

Included modifier for PrusaSlicer to set tempratures at proper layer heights
Open, (edit according to your prefered temps and floor count), and copy the text in SAP_temp_tower_gcode_modifier.txt.
Make a new Printer Setting and paste the GCODE modifier in 
Custom G-code > Before layer change gcode
Save setting and slice the .stl

Your printer will print the model at the set temperature automatically.

Simple as Posible Temperature Calibration Tower

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3017872.

This is a cheap Chinese Porlex knock-off hand-cranked coffee mill.  

Hand cranking is nice but sometimes it gets tiring.
I made an adapter socket so you can use your cordless drill



Coffee Mill Drill Adaptor

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4600035.

Simple wall-mounted holder for the ubiquitous K-1028E 1000 in 1 universal a/c remote control (Chunghop)

Use 2 pcs 3~3.5 mm screws for mounting on wall.

Universal AC Remote Control Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2660672.

A 3D printable version of this > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTok6sfxWLE&t=106s

Parts will slide smoothly only if your extrusion / e-steps is properly calibrated. 

Feel free to tinker this >

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2GmMwLyzV8I

Sliding Tube Mousetrap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655077.

Bed leveling probe to attach to heater block.

M3x20mm screw and nut for clamping the adaptor.

M2x12mm screws for mounting the microswitch.  You may need to drill the holes slightly larger to make the 2mm screw tap properly.
Microswitch is an Omron SS-5 with no lever.

SCAD file included for your customization.

E3D Heater Block Probe Adaptor

Just tape the strap to the can.

Tube snaps in place

Spray can tube holder thangs

tube holder.stl

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