Well its a lampshade, it shades my lamp, makes a snazzy pattern on ceiling, looks fancy.

Much better than paying for a poopy one from a shop or something, unless you like spending money, me i have filament and lots of it.

Did this in shiny grey, cause its what was in the printer (not taking this too seriously).

Lampshade init!

lightshade-Mount80.stl

This is my sons insole to make him straight, has one leg longer than other due to spinal issues, they gave him one from orthopaedics, NHS with the experience and equipment, and they gave him a wedge of hard foam that looked like it had come out fo an amazon delivery box...

I designed one the right size, hes size 8 shoe, this fits in either shoe, and you can print it in TPU, i used a 12% gyroid infill to make it squishy unlike the hard foam rubbish the "professionals" made for him. Bout time the NHS bought some 3d printers i think.

Try scaling it for other shoe sizes.

Insole.stl

This is my best attempt yet at a wind turbine.... a small modular one that can generate 6v to 40v depending on wind, current yet to be gauged, it charges large ish batteries at present.

This is still in testing, but its up on the outhouse roof and it spins like fury, the magnets are pretty powerful, on a low wind day its over 6v, charging a 7.2v 5a battery, i left it 24 hours and was fully charged (RC battery), im playing with larger banks and buck converters now.

I need to get this project laid out better, with instructions etc, but for now its on here so you guys take take a look over it.

Its not tiny, stands about half a meter high, 250mm ish wide.

So lets give you some more information on this.....

Latest tests show it to be pulling in about 50ma at around 8v for a low/med wind, i have it charging a 7.2v 10a battery stack with a boost converter permanently connected, its running through a simple 3 phase rectifier and a large cap before it gets to the batteries... The batteries then feed into the boost converter. this thing ran flat over 4 or 5 days with no wind at all, I came down this morning to find the boost converter on and going off now and then as the winds picked up here a little. The boost converter is pulling about 30-40ma, not converting anything but thats what its drawing doing its thing, and the wind is kinda sporadic as it dips and raises a little.

We have more options here, this thing was designed to be stacked, magnet rotor, coil, magnet rotor, coil and so on as much as you like. I am running this with two magnet rotors either side of a coil pack. you coild make a second coil pack and stack that too... two coil packs and three magnet rotors sandwiched. that would double your output.

Coil winding is important... we group the windings in 4's... daisy chaining them with the start being the phase terminal and the end being the common star join (so this gives us 3 single wires and the ends all connected together in star formation) as per photo. Coil winding direction is important, as is uniformed turns on each bobbin.

Magnet configuration is also important, as the magnets are paired to pull and push on opposite sides of each bobbin... but... we staggger the magnet pairs by a slot each time giving us 8 magnet pairs against 12 coils... now i did extensive testing on configurations to get the best output, and this works best out of all the formations i tried. See attached image. If you are going to use a second magnet rotor, one on top and one underneath, they need to be matched, so build your magnet rotors all the same and just stack them and line them up so the flux travels from rotor to rotor.. effectively the top rotor south should be facing the bottom rotor north which they will want to do naturally anyway. this added about 40% to my output... so another coil pack and rotor would increase again (you would then have two rectified 3 phase outputs)

I need to get this all better typed up but this should give you enough to go on.

Bearings are standard skateboard bearings, and the magnets i used where 10x5x3 strong neo's

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C28H23TN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the wire i used was 0.28mm gauge copper wire, which i believe is about 29awg, you could go finer for more voltage, thi sis what i had in my den at the time, i was going to use 30awg but got up to 40v from the low speed of a drill so thought hey ho go with that... in reality im finding a low wind to be around 6v... med wind to be about 16v and so on.





VAWT Vertical Axis Wind Turbine - Sinusoidal Blade using Pelton Effect 

sinusoidal-large.stl

sinusoidal_long.stl

V2+ UPDATED

Note, i have updated these as V2+, with slightly thicker walls and obvs a redesigned bottom plate, adjusting all boxes, v1 and v2+ are not compatible!!! sorry about that but when i started putting heavy shiz in them, they started to pop into the box below on some, these bad boys are now perfect. Ohhh i added more boxes to say sozbags, will add way more over the next few weeks as my OCD goes bananananas...

Added few more, also added markers and text to side so you know which tub is which

Carry on

Sick of parts bins breaking, are your nuts in a mess, screws too... if like me your tired of stupid plastic bins with your goodies in them breaking and spilling your life on the floor, and you want to look bad ass at the same time, try KablAmmo organiser, the ammo organiser that fits inside an ammo box.

Do your self a favour son, buy these...

https://preppersshop.co.uk/genuine-ex-military-50-cal-ammo-storage-box-9154-p.asp?v=0&variantid=74197

and fill them with those organisers and hey presto, you can walk to your next job like Chuck Norris wading into a bar to fix that squeeky tap. Personally i like the battered been dragged through the front line look, scares off the other contractors, get some rust sealer, paint the thing and embrace in its patina. 

These things retail used cheaper than plastic poop boxes and they last... well... their ammo boxes, you can drive stuff over them, they have been dropped from planes, and you can give the police a heart attack as you walk to your next plumbing job through the centre of town.

PRINTING

Print without support, but if you do, make sure your overhang is set to 45 degress to the model to stop long overhangs... otherwise use a support

KablAmmo Ammo Box Organiser

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x3x2.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x4x2.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x4x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x4x4.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x4x6.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x4x9.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x4x10.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x6x2.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x4x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x5x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-5x5x1.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-5x5x2.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-5x10x1.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-5x10x2.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-6x4x9.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-6x4x10.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-6x6x4.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-10x1x10.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-10x3x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-BaseHalf.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x4x2.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x4x4.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x4x6.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x4x9.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x4x10.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-10x4x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-4x4x10.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-5x5x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-6x6x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-5x3x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x3x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-4x6x4.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x6x1.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x4x5.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x4x7.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x6x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-3x6x4.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x3x3.stl

AmmoBoxInsertsV2-2x3x4.stl

Needed a simple bracket for TV, VESA100 type, these things dont need to take too much weight. Needs some m3/m3 countersunks for your TV and countersunk wall screws... oh and some m3 x 12 ish to screw lugs on and all that.

But here it is, nothing special but clean, prints well, strong enough... dont forget to do a hang test, small child clinging on TV once fitted, if you don't have a small child handy, family pet, etc.

VESA100 TV / Monitor Wall Bracket

vesa100-MountA.stl

So I had a new printer arrive, and it turns out i have two spare enders now, one donated thanks to my friend and my old one. I wanted a bigger printer, so i made a big ender, i made Bender.

Bender is two enders in one, with a footprint of 565 x 235 x 250, yes i can print half a meter!

What you are seeing is all the parts i had to make to create him, if you want me to flesh this all out with instructions let me know, i will. Otherwise have fun

Bender (Big Ender) V1

Head-MainHead.stl

Bought a kenwood Stand Mixer, Vintage A701A.... well it arrived broken, with a smashed bowl and a smashed control knob for turning it on and speed control.

The bowl, well amazon sorted that, plastic one, but the control knob, good look trying to find parts online, like rocking horse poop.

So.... Tadaaaaa

Control knob inner

Control knob outer

Control knob caps (branded and unbranded so you can brand as Mr Dough B*****d if you like)

Knobs all round people!

Peace out... 

Print Settings
Notes:
Print how you like, i used a support for the outer knob or your knob sags.

0.4 nozzle, pla, blah blah blah

kenwood-a701a-power-speed-knob-Bottom.stl

So i've made 2 wallets now, so now i have made some trays the same size as a credit card to put stuffs in.

Theres one that fits a tile tracker and has space for coin sized stuffs and maybe notes or a secret mini cigar.... The tile cavity is 4mm ish.

Theres then varying sized cavity ones to put other stuffs in. So you could get keys or coins or maybe a small slice of cheese in them.

They all fit the same sliding lid and the tile one has a different sized lid, but same thing.

These should fit in any wallet that fits credit cards and have a thick enough gap for them. top bottom are 1.2mm thick added to cavity., so these will fit in my wallets.

So now you can plop your coins, lock picks, cheese and any others stuffs in your wallet.

enjoys

UPDATE: Added card shield.... print this bad boy off, get some double sided sticky tape and kitchen foil, put the tap on the foil and cut it to fit the insert, then stick in place. Make two and place them either side of your cards to stop them from being scanned or picked up from card scanners whilst in wallet.

UPDATE: shrunk the lids a little and the tile slot to make a little easier to get in/on/out etceterarrrr

UPDATE: Added new tile mate 2022 tray, its a fraction taller (0.6mm) and the opening fits the new size tile mate 2022 which has longer range too. fits same lid as older version

Credit Card Tray 

CardTray-tile-tray.stl

CardTray-shield.stl

CardTray-tile-tray-mate-2022.stl


COMBINE WITH: https://thangs.com/designer/ulsmith/3d-model/Credit%20Card%20Tray%20-274388?manualModelView=true my card tray to get further options for insertable card sized stuffs for shielding, storing trackers and putting coins in.

So i already have a wallet, RF shielding, here on thangs, had it in use for a year, and its lasted well. But its a bit bulky as it has a tracker and was designed to drive a car over it, just in case you know, drunk, whoopsies and squished wallet.

I fancied a smaller one now to match my phone which the bar maid told me the other day looked like a gameboy, how rude.

I also wanted a print only, with no other parts needed (bar some glue). And here we have it, I have named it Wallet 2, catchy hey.

So choose shielding or not, shielding parts have 2 shields with a sticky bit of aluminium foil in the marked area to stop card scanning through the wallet, the non shielding version is quicker to print and only two halves (shielding is four parts).

So pop the clips in, check the work, and tidy any burrs to ensure good action..... then pop a little stupid glue in the holes and the edges, click the lid on and sandwhich in a vice or under a large heavy object like a teenager on a book for half hour.

Fits 8 cards or in my case, 4 cards, driving licence, doner card, picture of my daughter, 2 stamps i will never use and a business card for the chiropractor.

Print on a nice clean flat bed, if you have one of those glass beds with that black coating on that makes it harder to remove than a door salesman with a box fresh catalogue, turn that puppy over and print on the pure glass side, mirror like finish baby.

Enjoys.... 

UPDATE: Made the clip a little more thicker, and shifted it out more to make the holes clearer by adjusting the overall size to 70x95 instead of 69x94.... thi shas mae for better print and stronger spring. Then i added screw versions so you can screw shields/lids on with 3x 6mm/8mm countersink screws (16off shielding 8off normal)

UPDATE: Made 10 and 12mm base versions for more cards

UPDATE: Added 14mm bases

UPDATE: Added 10mm, 12mm and 14mm clips, all files now complete

UPDATE: Tweaked all clips to make them a fraction shorter to stop binding on case when screwing lid on

Wallet 2 (normal or RF shielding)

wallet-base-8mm-shielding.stl

wallet-shield-screw.stl

wallet-lid-shielding-screw.stl

wallet-lid-screw.stl

wallet-base-10mm.stl

wallet-base-12mm.stl

wallet-base-10mm-shielding.stl

wallet-base-12mm-shielding.stl

wallet-base-14mm.stl

wallet-base-14mm-shielding.stl

wallet-clip-14mm.stl

wallet-clip-12mm.stl

wallet-clip-10mm.stl

wallet-clip-8mm.stl

So i got a flip 3, nice little phone, bit more faster than the pixel 5 and guess what... it bends in half.... no way.... So feeling rather like a 1980's Shatner right here, looking like a total knob asking hte wife to beem me up scotty, its a tad on the slippery side naked (the phone not me), kinda like tryin to hold a sea bass fillet whilst havin your hand dipped in grease.

that said, most of the cases both suck and blow at the same time, too fat, too flimsy, so i designed one. Printing in PLA works like a charm, carbon fibre too brittle, trying nylon pla for laughs cause im a masochist.

You will need a little double sided tape to stop the case slipping off over time, all the flip cases have this anyways.

Best to print these flat side up with support, its a lot of support sure but you get a nice finish on the top side instead of the impressions of your bed. Added little snap off parts to stop warping on ends.

Happy days people, print no faster than 60mms people cause she canny take it any more captain!  

Galaxy Z Flip 3 Case

case-Top.stl

WIP! - Subject to changes

This is my latest idea, i'm a bit OCD to be fair, and i love things in order, i like tool boards, I love the idea of gridfinity, I also like drawer systems (like my boxy drawers stl's) and I also needed a new set of monitor stands for my desk, which is a dump right now.

So thats the background, I took my boxy drawers, the idea of gridfinity and my drawers and other tidy systems and started making a modular ecosystem for organising.

It not just a gridfinity clone, Im making two desktop monitor bases with drawers, using the blocks as walls and drawers for a base to sit on top and my monitor to sit on.

So you could use this to make storage racks, sets of storage bins for say nuts and bolts, desk tidy's, draw stacks.

We could then even start to fill the blocks with inserts for holding specific sized items kinda like gridfinity, but then mix in drawers, tubs and match and build into small modular furniture blocks.

This is still very early doors, the basic blocks have been designed to fit into a matrix grid. The grid can be screwed to things, or loose. they also sit flush next to each other to extend the grid size, so think print loads and lay them next to each other and the blocks will fit over the joins. Grids also allow for bases to screw up into blocks to secure to the grid.

The blocks so far are just basic tubs, different sizes as I build them. can be used for building structures or holding things. The blocks have holes for securing with screws or a centre hole to take a 6x2 magnet, with a magnetic base plate coming at some point.

Leave some comments, let me know if people are interested, if so i will go nuts on this, for now im building two monitor stands with drawers and will put all files on here, if people want this i will go to town on it.

Everything is modular and designed to be extendable to make things as big as you like. Storage sets as tall as you want etc.

Designed for tradeoff of rigidity vs print speed. Currently printing in wood PLA.

Added image of first run off of my monitor stand, will take a drawer or set of drawers in the middle and drop a 10mm thick laminate floor offcut on the top for the monitor base.

Blocker Organiser

Blocker-Block-2x2x2.stl

Blocker-Grid-Base-Screw.stl

Blocker-Block-Surface-8x1-10mm-Side.stl

Blocker-Block-Surface-8x1-10mm-Edge.stl

Blocker-Block-Surface-10x1-10mm-Side.stl

Blocker-Block-Surface-10x1-10mm-Edge.stl

Blocker-Grid-Base-10x5-Screw-Sheet.stl

Blocker-Block-3x3x2.stl

Blocker-Block-4x3x2.stl

Blocker-Block-3x2x2.stl

Blocker-Block-1x1x2.stl

Blocker-Block-1x2x2.stl

Blocker-Block-4x3x3.stl

Blocker-Block-1x2x3.stl

Blocker-Block-1x1x3.stl

Blocker-Block-3x3x3.stl

Blocker-Block-3x2x3.stl

Blocker-Block-2x2x3.stl

Blocker-Block-4x4x3.stl

Blocker-Block-4x4x2.stl

Blocker-Block-4x2x3.stl

Blocker-Block-4x2x2.stl

Blocker-Block-5x4x3.stl

Blocker-Block-5x3x2.stl

Blocker-Block-5x2x3.stl

Blocker-Block-5x2x2.stl

Blocker-Drawer-Drawer-4x10x3.stl

Blocker-Drawer-Enclosure-4x10x3.stl

Blocker-Drawer-Drawer-2x10x3.stl

Blocker-Drawer-Enclosure-2x10x3.stl

Blocker-Drawer-Drawer-3x10x3.stl

Blocker-Drawer-Enclosure-3x10x3.stl

Blocker-Drawer-Enclosure-8x5x3.stl

Blocker-Drawer-Drawer-8x5x3.stl

Blocker-Grid-Base-Magnet.stl

Blocker-Grid-Base-10x5-Magnet-Sheet.stl

So i made this to take one sneaky night time cigar down the pub, yes that's right, its a sneaky "I only want one on the way home" holders.... fits a cafe creme or signature mini cigar but would prob fit a few secret rolled up notes too...

Pocket Screw Tube - Fits Mini Cigar

Tube-bottom.stl

There is a few out there to be fair, but none that offered what i wanted which was a flat screen TV style mount.

So here is my own articulated nest hub bracket. Comes with various size arms and the ability to add as many or little arms as wanted to get desired reach.

Requires a few screws, M3x14/16 should work, holes should self tap.

Has a nice tight ball joint on the end for final tilting... plug in the ball into the socket with the flats matching, then twist 90 degress (might need pliars or a vice, can be a little hard), this will lock the ball in place. Ball joint is pretty tight at first.

ring slips over nest hub base once unplugged, snug fit...

Printing: Make sure you print the wall mount 100%, this is the week point in the whole setup, i hav made this slightly smaller and stronger so you can print 100% infill

Enjoys peoples!!

Google Nest Hub Articulated Arm Mounting Bracket

Nest-Hub-Articulated-Bracket-Nest-Mount.stl

Nest-Hub-Articulated-Bracket-Arm-Clip.stl

Worried about your bank cards being scanned? Keep your wallet in your back pocket? Want a smaller, slimmer, rugged alternative to a normal wallet? Loose your wallet a lot?

The RF contactless shielding wallet, protects up to 8 full sized bank cards at once from RF scanning using a thin layer of aluminium foil between top and bottom. With the optional hair bubbles for money clips and tile plate, you can securely place a tile tracker in your wallet too, to help you find it.

With internal springs to keep cards in place, notches all round for easy grip, or maybe you want to wrap a hair bubble around the wallet in the grooves to use as a money clip, this nifty wallet allows you to keep your cards safe and secure.

Comes with branded plates, clean plates and tile recessed plates for options.

Requires:
8 off 3mm D (M3) x 6mm H countersunk screws
8 off 3mm D (M3) x 12mm H countersunk screws
Optional 2 off small hair bubble in grooves as money/receipt clip
Optional 1 off Tile Tracker for finding your wallet (use tile plate stl)

Parts:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0819QXRBR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/nuoshen-Elastic-Bobbles-Ponytail-Elastics/dp/B099R4VVS3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tile-Mate-Item-Finder-Pack/dp/B07W9BBCTB

Filament:
PLA Green - https://www.amazon.co.uk/SUNLU-Filament-Tangle-Free-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B07TPS5P87

Carbon Fibre - https://www.amazon.co.uk/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-Carbon-1-75mm/dp/B01IICFS4Y

Printing:
I use PLA internally for holder and springs, carbon fibre for plates. Printing with 04 nozzle at standard quality. Speeds are not an issue, go for 30% ish infill.

Tile plate requires support such as tree touching build plate at 60 or more overhang

Assembly:
Easy, 4 off 6mm H and 4 off 12mm H M3 screws for each side (once springs in place), Some holes screw, some go through to screw to the holder behind. So 4 screws hold plates, 4 hold plates and screw to holder behind.

Don't forget to sandwich aluminium foil between lower and higher plates to shield (tested on various machines).

3D PRINTING SETTINGS
I use PLA internally for holder and springs, carbon fibre for plates. Printing with 04 nozzle at standard quality. Speeds are not an issue, go for 30% ish infill.

Tile plate requires support such as tree touching build plate at 60 or more overhang

Wallet by Ulsmith

wallet-plate-higher-tile-circle.stl

Here you have my bathroom light cord pull, its a lightbulb, cause its for a light...

Print in two parts, put the thread on the pull cord, tie a knot, then screw the bulb on the thread... donedid!

Print in two parts to allow thread different colour.

Light Bulb Cord Pull

LightBulbPull-Bulb.stl

LightBulbPull-Thread.stl

This is my soil free microgreens sprouter. It has a 3D printable substrate, that flexes to allow roots to penetrate. Sit this in a tray to grow a small crop of microgreens.

Sit seeds in water for 24hours to soak, put a little water in tray, sit sprouter in tray and spray daily until the roots hit the water in the tray.

This was designed to fit in a mini propagator, the likes you find at wilko or B&Q here in the UK.

Grows a decent crop in two weeks.

Print from PETG for food safe with 0.4 nozzle

MicroGreens Sprouter

This is my soil free microgreens sprouter. It has a 3D printable substrate, that flexes to allow roots to penetrate. Sit this in a tray to grow a small crop of microgreens.

Sit seeds in water for 24hours to soak, put a little water in tray, sit sprouter in tray and spray daily until the roots hit the water in the tray.

Grows a decent crop in two weeks.

Print from PETG for food safe with 0.4 nozzle

Sprouter-SubstrateLine.stl

A modular based hydroponic tree, fits 2inch netcups (or print them too). Sit the tree on a bucket with a lid, fill it with nutrient, pop a water pump into the bucket, feed the tube up the center and connect it to the spout at the top.

Printed best (and quickest) with a .8 nozzle, but can print with .4 (increases time).

Best printed in food grade material such as PETG (as PLA is somewhat water sensitive)

UPDATE: I have found that .6 nozzle seems to be the best of both worlds, decent print on .28 low quality and .2 standard quality heights, and pretty fast expsecially with cura 5. set seem to back and print with pod facing forward. I get 5 hour prints on the pods now in PETG with decent results.

HydroponicTree

A modular based hydroponic tree, fits 2inch netcups (or print them too). Sit the tree on a bucket with a lid, fill it with nutrient, pop a water pump into the bucket, feed the tube up the center and connect it to the spout at the top.

Printed best (and quickest) with a .8 nozzle, but can print with .4 (increases time).

Best printed in food grade material such as PETG (as PLA is somewhat water sensitive)

HydroponicTree-Pod-3bay.stl

Here we have an ender 3 spool roller bearing, printed in place.

Sick of having the thing jerk and snag and more, so I made a print in place roller bearing, but then went further and created a runner for it to run smoother on, a stop and sprung inserts to go into the spools, all to give you a nice snug roll.

This works better than a metal bearing, they are too smooth, the spool unravels, but this has enough friction to limit that.

The roller turns on its printed bearings, with the runner increasing the diameter of the spool holder and inserts making the spool fit snugly on it all.

Print in place, no supports, no in fill for everything.

Spool roller is print at 20mms walls max speed.

Once printed, creek each wheel to separate and turn until all free.

This may fit other spool holders out there but fits the ender 3 holder perfect so should fit other enders too.

Will fit over a 36mm diameter spool lip, runner making the shaft thicker and inserts fitting various size spools being sprung (2 per spool)

Enjoy

 Ender 3 Filament Spool Roller Bearing

spool roller bearing.stl

My modular storage organiser drawers... yes i know i know, there are loads out there all ready, some better looking, but then i have one thing in mind unlike the others....

Needs to print faster, needs to use less material, needs to still be strong....

So based on this i came up with the Boxy Drawers (which kinda sounds like a cheap bond girl) but there you go people.

These bad boys/girls clip together with joiners, so to join or not to join! They also fix to a wall through the centre of any of the modules.

There are also bits to clip on the edge modules to "make em nice", if nice is your thing.

I would tell you how to print these, but well, thats your bag, I have included the cura profiles i use, but then my machine is an ender 3 with many mods.....

I get best results with .4 nozzle up to 80mms and no supports needed, print as they are.

I will expand on this more, as I am really OCD and have nothing better to do with my free time, if you likey then likey, no likey don't likey.

I have an extended full set upload to cults3d including many more parts and first releases of new add ons.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/boxy-drawers-full-set

Bye!

3D PRINTING SETTINGS
All print in place no support and 0% infill 0.8 wall

roller bearing print no faster than 20mms (9 hours)

others printed well up to 40mms wall speed

Boxy Drawers Small Parts Storage

drawer_v4.stl

The Penkey by ULSMITH,

Organise your keys with this smoothly designed key holder. Fits as many keys as you wish, with a range of washers and tubes and finished off with a coloured logo insert, this key organizer not only looks good, but works well too.

Printed from carbon fibre and using a dayglow green insert, this holder has 5 of my keys plus a trolley jacker for freeing trolleys (not included).

Print any speed with or without support for logo area.

REQUIRES:

3 Off M3 screws of length to fit amount of keys as dome head or countersink
3 Off M3 nuts
Dab of glue for logo insert



 ULSMITH - Penkey Pocket Key Organizer

penkey-side-bolt-dome-hex.stl

Problem solver, engineer, programmer, nerd...

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