**Join the EnderXY community on Reddit:**
https://www.reddit.com/r/EnderXY/


I've made this as I've received a few messages on here asking if there was a way to fix the bed wobble without using triple-z. **This is untested as I use triple-z, but it should work and fix the issue completely.**

Remember to print 2040 linear rail guides before dissasembly to make the installation easier, I've included some to print (atleast 2).

You will lose 10mm on X as the motor had to be shifted, effectively moving the bed back 10mm so that the linear rail and lead screw are parallel, though this also depends on the thickness of the toolhead you are using.

_Note: If you are using the printed bracket and location designed by belt3dprinterkit then you will have to flip the bracket (check pictures)._

**Motor mount (Pic 7):**
- 4x M3x15mm (Socket or Pan head)
- 4x M3x10mm (Socket or Pan head)
- 4x M3x13mm (Socket or Pan head)
- 4x M3 spring nuts (Re-use stock)

**Arm (Pic 4, 5, 6):**
- 8x M3x8mm (Socket or Pan head)
- 8x M5x8mm (Re-use stock)
- 4x M3x13 or 15mm (Socket or Pan head)

**Z-endstop mount (Pic 8):**
- 1x M5x8mm (Pan head)
- 1x M5 spring nut (Re-use stock)
- 2x M3x6mm
- 1x M3x18mm (Adjustment)

**Dissassembly:**
1. Remove heated bed from bed carriage.
2. Remove stock arms (P4L/P4R in the manual) and 1020 extrusions.
3. Remove 1020 extrusions from stock arms (P4L/P4R in the manual).
4. Remove linear rails and carriage
5. Remove motor.
6. Remove Z nut from lead screw.
7. Remove lead screw from coupler.
8. Remove coupler from motor.

**As screws cross paths there is a very specific order that has to be followed for installation.**

**Linear rail and carriage installation:**
1. Use 2040 linear rail guides to align the rails.
2. The rail should touch the lower brackets (P3L/P3R in the manual).

**Motor installation:**
Connect mount to 2040.
Connect motor to mount.
Add Z rod coupler.

**Arm installation:**
1. Connect arm to MGN12H (top bolts ONLY).
2. Connect Z nut to arm.
3. Connect arm to MGN12H (bottom bolts ONLY).
4. Connect 1020 extrusions to arm.
5. Connect lead screw.

**Z-endstop mount:**
1. Follow the picture.


_Remember this is untested until I get confirmation but I'm pretty sure there won't be any issues._

_**If you'd like to support my work you can here [https://ko-fi.com/supavitax](https://ko-fi.com/supavitax)**_

EnderXY - Bed Wobble Begone

Left Motor Mount.STL

Join the EnderXY community on Reddit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/EnderXY/

These are untested on a stock machine as I'm using a Rapido UHF and my toolhead sits lower than stock but I've been running them for a few weeks now.

The Z endstop has to be removed for this mod but I assume most people are using some sort of probe.

I'd recommend printing with supports on the bed so the top faces for the bearing and extrusion are clean.

**Key Points:**
- Slightly improves rigidity.
- Perfectly aligns with motor shaft so it will prevent any binding on Z.

**Required Hardware:**
- 2x 608Z Bearings
- 4x M5 8mm
- 4x M5 spring nuts or T-nuts

EnderXY - Z-brace

EnderXY Z-brace(1).STL

Join the EnderXY community on Reddit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/EnderXY/

These are a direct replacement for the belt tensioners on the EnderXY. 

The stock tensioners have many issues when running higher speeds/accel such as belts slowly coming loose, rattling and just overall slop.

I wanted something that was a direct swap without having to remove and adjust the belts. I will eventually make a “stubby” version as there's no need for them to be as long as they are.

I have 100+ hours tested on this design before uploading so please let me know if you find any issues.

**Video of design and belt adjustment:**
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Emo_w6sp2IM


**Key Points:**
- Direct swap, same amount of adjustment.
- Single M3 screw to adjust tension.
- Much finer adjustment compared to the knob.
- Zero slop with tighter tolerances.
- Zero flex.
- Idler/belt window.

**Required Hardware:**
- 2x M3 35mm (Can be full or half threaded).
- 2x M3 square nut.
- 4x M5 8mm.
- 4x M5 sprint nut or T nut.
- 4x M5 0.5mm washers.
- 2x M5 Nyloc nut (Use one from the stock tensioner bracket).
- 2x M5 20mm Socket head screw (Use the one from the stock tensioner).
- 2x Original pulley from stock tensioners (I use smooth ones from Mellow).

**Printing:**
I've orientated the parts to how they should be printed.

**Installation:**
https://imgur.com/Tbhy1Qi
_
Tolerances are tight so depending on your printer you may need to file some areas for fitment._

Can be a bit fiddly to install but I'd recommend you put the housing onto the extrusion first.

 

EnderXY - Better Belt Tensioners

Left Belt Tensioner Housing v4 - Sensorless.STL

Join the EnderXY community on Reddit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/EnderXY/

This upgrade will require a mainboard that has 3 independent stepper drivers available for Z (I use an Octopus board).

Fixes the main issue with the EnderXY were the bed will slightly tilt forwards and backwards as it moves the Z axis up and down due to the linear rails being offset to the leadscrews.

I've oriented the parts to how they should be printed. The only part that requires supports is the "Triple-Z Upper Brace".

**Update:**

Added optional arms to replace the stock ones to improve bed rigidity even further. These have supports built in (Check the last image and carefully remove the red parts after printing). Does not work the the stock LCD location.  For the optional Z brackets you will remove the stock Z brackets, 1010 extrusions and bed adjustment knobs on the front.

**Pre-release video:**
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyYgVXCnr1U

**Key Points:**
- Greatly improves the rigidity of the bed.
- Improves leveling procedure.
- Reduced sag on the Z axis.
- Uses original bed adjustment knobs and screws to attach the printed carriage plate to - the original carriage plate.
- 2 tie wrap locations to hold wire harness.
- (Optional Carriage) 2 adjustable bolt locations to easily align steel sheet at rear.
- (Optional Z Brackets) Improves rigidity even further.

**Required Hardware:**
- 1x 330mm or 370mm 2040 extrusion (Image #4)
- 1x 42-34 stepper motor
- 1x 300mm leadscrew
- 1x T8 leadscrew nut
- 1x 5mm to 8mm shaft coupler
- 1x 608Z bearing (Image #7)
- 4x 10mm M3 screws (Printed carriage plate, printed upper brace)
- 4x 6mm M3 screws (Motor)
- 4x 6mm M5 screws (Printed motor mount)
- 1x M3 x 4mm x 5mm thread inserts (Printed upper brace (Image #6))
- 4x M5 T-nuts or spring nuts (Printed motor mount)
- 1x Stepper motor cable
- (Optional Carriage) Requires 2 square M3 nuts.
- (Optional Z Brackets) Requires 2x M5 nuts.

**Klipper Settings:**

[z_tilt]
z_positions:
    # Left
    -23, 118.4
    # Right
    251, 118.4
    # Rear
    117.5, 302
points:
    # Front Left
    29, 50
    # Front Right
    210, 50
    # Rear
    123.5, 225

_*These will need adjusting slightly depending on your probe offsets. The video above shows it probing where the Z Rods are, but the settings above is what I use to probe the front._

EnderXY Triple-Z

Triple-Z Carriage Plate - With Alignment Bolts.STL

Triple-Z Left Arm.STL

Triple-Z Right Arm.STL

Reverse engineered to allow others to create custom toolheads.

EnderXY Stock Backplate 

Reverse engineered CAD model for the EnderXY. Printer was dissasembled and each part measured and printed to compare for maximum accuracy, though it won't be 100% accurate as I don't have the original CAD model.

The only thing I didn't add was the spring nuts.

If you find any errors please let me know so I can re-measure/print that part and verify it.


**_Update v1.0.03:_**
- Added 2 missing screws.
- Fixed minor issue with bed positon.

**_Update v1.0.08:_**
- Added 4 missing screws.
- Fixed a minor issue with Z alignment on lead screws.
- Remade the Z motor brackets to match the EnderXY ones.

**_Update v1.0.10:_**
- Fixed misaligned hole on “Rear Upper Brace”.
- Fixed a measurement on “Rear Upper Brace”.

**_Update v1.0.11:_**
- Fixed misaligned hole on “Rear Upper Brace”.

**_Update v1.0.17:_**
- Fixed mismeasurement of Lead screws (now 290mm).
- Fixed minor mismeasurement on "Belt Tensioner Mounting Plate" holes.
- Fixed minor mismeasurement on the belt tensioner inner bracket.
- Cosmetic fixes on belt tensioner handle to correctly match stock.

**_Update v1.0.18_**
- Fixed the centre hole on the “Rear Upper Brace”.

**_Update v1.0.26_**
- Fixed misaligned holes on “Rear Lower Brace”.
- Fixed two misaligned holes on “Bottom Plate”.




I'm not affiliated with belt3dprinterkit.com or Aditiva3D but I wanted to see the community and support for the EnderXY grow. 



The core parts to the EnderXY are made from aluminium and are easy to bend/strip a thread so this will allow people to recreate/repair/improve the EnderXY.



If you want to purchase the kit to build your own EnderXY you can get it from https://belt3dprinterkit.com/products/enderxy-conversion-kit-for-ender-3-series

EnderXY CAD Model (Unofficial)

Reverse engineered CAD model for the EnderXY. Printer was dissasembled and each part measured and printed to compare for maximum accuracy, though it won't be 100% accurate as I don't have the original CAD model.

The only thing I didn't add was the spring nuts.

If you find any errors please let me know so I can re-measure/print that part and verify it.









I'm not affiliated with belt3dprinterkit.com or Aditiva3D but I wanted to see the community and support for the EnderXY grow. 



The core parts to the EnderXY are made from aluminium and are easy to bend/strip a thread so this will allow people to recreate/repair/improve the EnderXY.



If you want to purchase the kit to build your own EnderXY you can get it from https://belt3dprinterkit.com/products/enderxy-conversion-kit-for-ender-3-series

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2924187.

This will fill the gap between the SD card slot and the outer case on the Ender-3 so that there will be no chance of slipping the SD card into the case.

May need to rotate the model in Cura like I've shown in the pic.

Requires an M3x10mm

This appears to no longer be required for the newer machines. 

Ender-3 SD Card gap filler

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5466553.

The T12 soldering iron doesn't fit correctly in the Hakko FH-300 soldering stand as it sits at an angle and the tip of the soldering iron will touch the bracket inside the FH-300 stand.

This prevents that from happening and allows the soldering iron to correctly sit in the FH-300 stand. This adapter has a notch added so it can't spin and will seat correctly, snug push fit onto the FH-300.

Check pics to see fitment.

Hakko FH-300 to T12 Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6045527.

Kusba Accelerometer mount designed for the Satsana Dual 5015 Fan Duct. 

Very simple print, extremely sturdy with locating pins. Supports 4010 fans and 4020 fans.

Simply unscrew the two top screws for your fan and put the two locating pins inside the screw holes for the fan then insert the screws and tighten. Can be left mounted or removed afterwards.

Add "axes_map: x, z, y" to [adxl345] section config for proper orientation.

https://github.com/xbst/KUSBA
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5750189

Kusba X Mount for Satsana Dual 5015 fan duct

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6131638.

#Citadel - Dual 5015 for EnderXY#


This is still a work in progress but I've tested multiple configurations and I'm currently running this setup.


#Key Points:#
<ul>
<li>Designed specifically for the EnderXY for required clearances</li>
<li>Dual 5015 part cooling</li>
<li>3010 Heatsink cooling with directed flow</li>
<li>Rear mounted probe (allows better view of the nozzle but slightly reduces probe-able area)</li>
<li>High flow fan ducts to maximize 5015 air flow</li>
<li>Kusba Accelerometer mount</li>
</ul>

Specifically designed for my setup that has the following parts:
<ul>
<li>Stock Ender 3 Heatsink</li>
<li>27mm Titanium Alloy Bi-Metal Heatbreak</li>
<li>Volcano Heatblock</li>
<li>CRTouch</li>
</ul>
	
If you have the same or very similar hotend setup it should be a straight swap.


#Bolt Sizes:#
<ul>
<li>3010 Fan Holder to 5015 Duct 		- 2x M3 6mm to 8mm
<li>3010 Fan to 3010 Fan Holder			- 2x M3 14mm to 18mm
<li>CRTouch to Probe Holder 			- 2x M3 6mm to 8mm
<li>Overbeam Bracket to Probe Holder 	- 2x M3 8mm to 14mm
<li>Gantry Adapter to Overbeam Bracket 	- 2x M3 12mm to 16mm
<li>5015 Duct to Gantry Adapter 		- 2x M3 25mm Countersunk
<li>5015 Fan to 5015 Duct				- 4x M3 6mm to 14mm if using Heat inserts in 5015 (22mm+ + 4x M3 Nuts)
<li>Hotend to Overbeam Bracket			- 2x M3 25mm to 30mm</li>
</ul>

#Hotend to Gantry adapter order assembly:#
Bolt > Hotend > M3 spacer(/printed spacer) > Gantry Adapter > Overbeam Bracket


#Required Hardware:#
<ul>
<li>2x 2mm M3 spacers or drill the thread out of 2x M3 nuts</li>
<li>11x M3 x 4mm x 5mm thread inserts (+ 4x if adding them to 5015 fans)</li>
<li>1x 3010 fan</li>
<li>2x 5015 fans</li>
</ul>
	
If you use the Kusba Mount you will simply remove the two M3 screws for the 3010 fan mount and place the Kusba Mount over the 3010 fan mount and screw it back in.


#Printing Settings:#
<ul>
<li>4 Perimeters</li>
<li>25% Gyroid infill</li>
</ul>	
I've manually added easily removable supports and correctly oriented the models.
	

#Post Print:#
<ul>
<li>Remove supports (see picture with red sections).</li>
<li>Add heat inserts (see pic with purple sections).</li>
</ul>


#Klipper Settings:#
<code>
	[bltouch]
		x_offset: 0.0
		y_offset: 61.0
		
	[stepper_x:
		position_max: 225
		
	[stepper_y]
		position_max: 235

	[safe_z_home]
		home_xy_position: 112.5, 56.5
	
	[bed_mesh]
		mesh_min: 2, 63
		mesh_max: 219, 233
</code>

Citadel - Dual 5015 for EnderXY

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2513113.

This can be a replacement for a missing wiper cap cover on the Mazda Mx5 Mk1 or Mk2. 

Made using measurements from the original to match as close as possible. 

This is a snug fit so you might need to gently tap it in.

This can be a replacement for a missing wiper cap cover on the Mazda Mx5 Mk1 or Mk2. 

Made using measurements from the original to match as close as possible.

Printed in PLA. 

Use support and print with the same orientation as the pic (or rotate 90 degrees so the flat side is on the bed).

Mazda Mx5 Mk1 Mk2 Wiper cap cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6204141.

Rear cable guide to hold toolhead cables vertically at the rear of the EnderXY.

May need supports depending on cooling.


Required Hardware:
1x M3 x 4mm x 5mm thread insert
1x M3 x 8mm button head
2x 3mm(max) wide cable ties

Post Print:
Add heat insert to the only round hole

EnderXY Rear Cable Guiide

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5181625.

These are some extensions for the Parkside Hand Drill Set vice. The original was too narrow for what I needed so I made some extensions that allows 115mm over the original 53mm.

It has 2 interface points to allow the original width to still be used on the lower section of the jaws as you can see in the 1st picture.

Uses all the original screws and mounting holes.

I'd recommend printing vertically for the extra strength. Simply print and use.

Parkside Hand Drill Vice Jaw Extensions

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2934313.

This will smooth out the passage on the 20x40 frame underneath the bed where the cables sit to prevent them from rubbing on the sharp edges of the frame.

Simple push fit design.

**Rotate the model in Cura like I've shown in the pic before printing.**

(Last picture is upside down and wouldn't allow it to be rotated)

**Doesn't fit the Pro model. Check comments for scale suggestions**

Ender-3 Cable Protector

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230.

**24/05/2018: Updated to v2 which reduces filament by about 25% and print time by about 15%.**

This will support the Z-motor and align it correctly to prevent the leadscrew from binding. You will no longer have to use paper/card or leave the motor loose to prevent the binding. 

Check pics for installation.

**Rotate the model in your slicer like I've shown in the pic before printing.**

Ender-3 Z-motor spacer / support

Join the EnderXY community on Reddit:https://www.reddit.com/r/EnderXY/

 Join the EnderXY community on Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/EnderXY/

EnderXY Reddit Community

Triple-Z Motor Mount.STL

Triple-Z Upper Brace.STL

Triple-Z Carriage Plate.STL

(Optional) Triple-Z Left Arm.STL

(Optional) Triple-Z Right Arm.STL

Left Belt Tensioner Housing v4.STL

Pulley Bracket Ramp v4.STL

Pulley Bracket v4.STL

Right Belt Tensioner Housing v4.STL

**Check my creations on Printables for the most up to date versions.**

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Seedling

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EnderXY CAD Model (Unofficial)

EnderXY Triple-Z

EnderXY - Better Belt Tensioners

EnderXY - Bed Wobble Begone

EnderXY - Z-brace

EnderXY - Better Belt Tensioners

EnderXY Triple-Z

EnderXY Stock Backplate

EnderXY CAD Model (Unofficial)

Ender-3 SD Card gap filler

Hakko FH-300 to T12 Adapter

Kusba X Mount for Satsana Dual 5015 fan duct

Citadel - Dual 5015 for EnderXY

Mazda Mx5 Mk1 Mk2 Wiper cap cover

EnderXY Rear Cable Guiide

Parkside Hand Drill Vice Jaw Extensions

Ender-3 Cable Protector

Ender-3 Z-motor spacer / support