Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5385388.

After researching the effectiveness of installing a barrel strap on my Benjamin Akela, I decided to make one.  I quickly realized there are actually 2 potential gun related sources of shot wander in the Akela:  barrel shift, and scope rail flex.  Both can happen due to jarring (bumps when handling or firing) and thermal expansion.  Ultimately, you want your scope and barrel to remain aligned with each other, regardless of minor jostling and temperature changes.  The best case is with a floating barrel that is rigidly affixed near the breach to the same reference as the scope mount, with no deformations due to temperature variations.  The Akela is good at this, but far from ideal, and can benefit from additional bracing.

Note:  While following these instructions, you might notice what appear to be scuffs on your barrel shroud.  If you use PLA like I did, you will discover they are simply powdered plastic deposited in the rough anodized surface, and they wipe off easily.

Instructions:

FIRST

1. Print all 3 sizes of each part.
2. Sand the barrel and rail supports wherever they will make contact with the barrel shroud, tank, and scope rail.  I used 600 grit.  Wipe the parts clean.
3. Install the shortest rail support.  It should require light pressure on the barrel shroud to deflect the shroud downward enough to fit the rail support under the rail.  If the rail support is loose, try the next size up.  The rail support should be lightly wedged between the shroud and the rail when you no longer press downward on the barrel shroud.

THE EASY WAY

1. Remove the rail.
2. Fold a piece of paper enough times that it fits snugly (with only enough pressure to cause upward shroud deflection) between the front air tank strap and the barrel shroud.  The idea is to deflect the shroud upwards, enlarging the space between the air tank and the shroud.
3. Perform steps 2-4 of THE HARD WAY.
4. Reinstall the rail.
5. Perform steps 5-7 of THE HARD WAY.

THE HARD WAY

1. Fold a piece of paper enough times that it fits tightly between the front air tank strap and the barrel shroud.  The idea is to deflect the shroud upwards, enlarging the space between the air tank and the shroud.
2. Remove the air tank cap.
3. Attempt to install the nominal size barrel support.  Slightly spread the barrel support open at the screw location, so it can slide over the end of the air tank, and gradually work it into position.  If you find it requires significant upward force on the shroud to make the barrel support fit between the tank and the shroud, then try one of the shorter barrel supports.
4. Remove the folded paper wedge.
5. Wiggle the barrel support while very lightly squeezing the barrel shroud towards the air tank in order to completely seat everything.
6. Install an M3 screw and nut in the barrel support, and tighten.
7. Test for fit by gently wiggling the barrel shroud up/down and left/right.  It shouldn't budge, and the rail support should still be firmly wedged.

If no combination of these supports fits properly, then you will need to experiment with slicer scaling and/or sanding.  The nominal sizes were designed specifically for my gun, but manufacturing variations do occur.

Benjamin Akela Barrel and Rail Support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4877248.

I designed this playground piece for my daughter's hamster, Brad.  Brad was bored (I don't know how she could tell, but that's what my daughter told me), so I designed the ladders and tubes to be a little challenging.  The top is an observation deck, but it isn't high enough to be a fall hazard.  Brad is happy now.

All pieces are printable in PLA without supports.  Obviously, PLA can have colorants and additives that are not good to consume, but that's the case for pretty much all plastic rodent toys sold in pet shops.

The tubes and their connections to the deck must be bonded together.  Although the ladders lock together and to the deck pretty well, you might want to bond them together, anyway.  In case your hamster likes to chew its plastic exercise equipment (Brad doesn't), make sure you use a benign glue or solvent.  I won't get into how different glues stack up in terms of potential harm to rodents, but my solution was to weld the pieces together using dichloromethane.  Dichloromethane is nasty stuff, so if you decide to use it, wear a chemical respirator, nitrile gloves, and do the work outside.  The good thing about using dichloromethane is that it is a volatile solvent, and fully evaporates quickly, leaving no residue (I gave it a couple days, just in case).  BTW:  dichloromethane is sometimes used to remove caffeine from coffee beans to make decaf.

Hamster Playground - The Corkscrew

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4873060.

This is a remix of Dog Bowl Water Bottle Carrier, thing number 119689.  I added a flat back for stability, a lanyard slot, and belt clip.

The belt clip is from the "KEY-BAK Key Holder, Belt Clip Key Accessory with Split Ring & Steel Belt Clip" available on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/KEY-BAK-Holder-Accessory-Split-Steel/dp/B081B6L7Y1).

The lanyard is common paracord.  Cut a little more than the length you want, fold in half, insert the folded center into the passage in the back of the water bottle carrier, and pull through the top.  Hold the 2 cut ends together, side by side, and heat with a lighter until they mushroom and stick to each other.  Let cool, and pull into the slot until it locks in place.

Dog Bowl Water Bottle Carrier With Lanyard and Belt Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4933099.

This K40 air assist solution consists of 3 printed parts:

(1) Nozzle (creates low volume airflow exiting the laser lens area to prevent smoke or vapor from settling on the lens)
(2) Splitter (directs most of the airflow through a blower tube at the site of the cut, and a lower volume of air to the nozzle)
(3) Clamp (holds the blower tube for directing air onto the cut site)

You will need to make the blower tube for directing air at the cut site.  I used a set of nested copper tubes soldered together to direct the air and increase air velocity by decreasing the tube diameter at the air exit.  You can bend copper tubing without collapsing it by packing it with sand or salt first.  Soldering can be done with electrical solder and a small micro torch (use solder flux).

I used PTFE tubing (same kind as used in FDM printers for 1.75mm filament paths) for the Nozzle, and 0.25 inch ID silicone tubing everywhere else.

The nested copper tubing I used:  K&S Precision 3404 Round Copper Telescopic Tubes, 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4 O. D. X .014" Wall Thickness x 12", Pack of 7

K40 Laser Air Assist Solution

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4808256.

A Qidi X-Plus carriage for the E3D Hemera (Hermes) extruder, instructions, and firmware settings file.

Files:

•	CarriageV3.stl (carriage base, minus blower mount)
•	LimitSwitchPlate.stl (striker plate for x-axis limit switch)
•	PCBstandoff.stl (Qidi printed circuit board mount)
•	BeltClamp.stl (x-axis belt clamp)
•	CableGuide.stl (flex cable routing guide)
•	LEDholder.stl (optional general purpose glue on LED holder)
•	My X-Plus configFile for Hemera.gcode

The PCB, blower fan, stepper motor cable, and thermocouple were salvaged from my standard Qidi extruder (don’t use the thermistor from the E3D kit—it isn’t compatible unless you use adapter electronics).

Additional items needed:  ¼ inch OD brass tubing for the filament cooling air nozzle, M3 screws (you will need to determine lengths yourself—sorry, I didn’t keep track), M3 nuts, CA glue, metal tubing cutter, double sided tape, other tools as needed for part clean up (sand paper, razor knife, ¼ inch drill bit, etc.).

I printed everything using a resin printer (Epax X1, in this case).  I originally printed prototypes using my Qidi X-Plus, which produced useable parts, but with all the support issues and material limitations (shrinkage, deformation temperatures when hot end is mounted), I found resin was best.  The resin I used was a 50/50 mix of Siraya Tech Blue and Siraya Tech Build.

Directions:

Once the supports are removed from the parts, you may need to clean out the bore of the bottom air duct using a ¼ inch drill bit in order for the brass tubing used as the air nozzle to press fit well.  You can also try a sandpaper wrapped pencil.

Press and glue 2 M3 nuts into the top of the carriage to receive the screws that hold the belt clamp.  You might need to clean the recesses with a hobby knife, depending on material shrinkage and how clean your print turned out.

Mount the Hemera to the carriage next.  Note that the screws barely engage the T-nuts, which is good, because you don’t want the screws to bottom out—that would break the T-slots on the Hemera (a commonly reported problem with screws too long).  The holes in the sides of the carriage are for inserting an allen wrench (provided with the Hemera) to the recessed screws.  Don’t tighten more than necessary, or you might deform the carriage.  If you are worried about the screws working loose, use weak thread locker.

The fan mount is slip fit into the opening in the blower.  When sized properly, the blower is held in place by friction (no screws or hold downs needed).  Since different blowers have slightly different opening sizes and shapes, you will probably need to file the mount to fit first (I had to).  

Next, mount the limit switch strike plate using CA glue.  The strike plate has a relief that ensures proper positioning against the carriage.  It will clear the fan, if the stock Hemera fan is used.

Clean the nut recess in the PCB mount, and press/glue an M3 nut into it.  Use 1 M3 screw (not provided in the kit—you’ll need to find one the right length, because I can’t remember what I eventually scrounged from my hardware bin) to bolt the mount to the upper left T-nut of the Hemera (E3D provides extra T-nuts in the kit).  Bolt the PCB to the nut you pressed into the lower left corner of the mount.  Attach the cable guide and upper right corner of the PCB+mount to the Hemera using another T-nut + long screw.  BE CAREFULL:  If any screw is long enough that it hits the T-slot wall, select a shorter screw, or shim the screw head with washers. 

Take the heater provided in the Hemera kit, and cut the wires to the correct length for routing to the PCB.

Modify the old Qidi stepper motor cable by removing pins and swapping them.  Refer to the wire colors in the pictures for the wire swaps I had to do (the Hemera stepper is wired differently).

Route and connect the rest of the wiring.  Use the old Qidi thermocouple (don’t use the thermistor from the E3D kit—it isn’t compatible unless you use adapter electronics).  The Hemera fan connector is not the right type to fit the Qidi PCB connector, so you’ll need to cut and splice it to the old Qidi fan connector wires; or, you can do it the better way, and buy a new connector and crimp tool.

Finally, cut a piece of brass tubing for the nozzle, compress one end to flare it, and press the round end into the opening in the bottom duct of the carriage.  Make any adjustments necessary to keep it at least 1mm above the extruder tip, or it will snag your prints.  Note that the closer it is to the extruder or heat block the more heat will be radiated into it and transferred to the carriage (with enough heat, the resin may soften).

With printer power off and unplugged, remove the flex cable from the old extruder, remove the extruder from the old carriage, and remove the belt clamp.  Pop the carriage off the 4 x-axis bushings and remove it.  It is press fit to the bushings, so just work at it, and make sure you don’t put too much pressure on the rods, or they might bend.

Take your new Hemera carriage assembly, and snap it down onto the x-axis bushings.  If by chance you carriage is loose on the bushings, you can shim them with small strips of tape until the fit is snug.  Check to see if the bushings are binding or dragging (mine weren’t on my first prototype, but were on the next version, even though I did not change dimensions).  This can be caused by surface imperfections in the bushing seats, dimensional issues with your print (shrinkage or warping), or crooked seating (remove and try again).  If you just can’t eliminate binding, loosen the screws holding the Hemera to the carriage, and see if the problem goes away (screws too tight, and it may flex the carriage).  Finally, you can try CAREFULLY heating the carriage center section with a heat gun while it is installed on the x-axis rods—the material may relax to the stresses imposed by the rods, then harden in a more accommodating position.  Use discretion—not all plastics and resins behave the same way.

Screw the belt clamp against the teeth of the belt, and make sure the belt is secure, and the carriage moves properly by hand.  You might have to loosen the x-axis stepper, and reposition it to get proper belt tension.

Connect the flex cable, power on, and check the System Info screen for anything unusual.  Temperatures should read somewhere around 25C.

Heat the extruder, then run some filament through it.  It will extrude very slowly, because you haven’t adjusted e-steps yet.  If it chatters, the stepper wiring has a problem.

Assuming all is okay up to this point, you should save your firmware settings before changing them.  To do this, create at text file with the extension “gcode” with this command in it, and print it from the usb stick:

M8512 'configFile.gcode' ; Download current config to file

Your machine’s default settings will now be in configFile.gcode on your USB stick.

Save the original file, then apply the following edits to make a new file (name it [whateveryouwant].gcode).  You can reference my settings file for what I ended up with.  VERY IMPORTANT NOTE:  My file has settings and customizations that are specific to my machine, so be careful, and understand the changes you make to your settings before using them!  There are several references on Thingiverse and other places that help explain.  Here are good starting values:

M8011 S0.002523;  CALIBRATED E-STEPS IN MM/STEP FOR HEMERA—Should be universal, but test and fine tune.

M8024 I287;  Max X (right limit switch X-value) adjusted for Hermera extruder carriage (DETERMINES ZERO LOCATION OF BED LEFT EDGE)—Yours should initially be around 287, but observe where your x-axis zero location ends up, then adjust.

M8025 I200;  Max Y (rear limit switch Y-value) adjusted for Hermera extruder carriage (DETERMINES ZERO LOCATION OF BED FRONT EDGE)

You might also need to change the maximum Z-height of the bed if your adjustment screws and springs don’t position optimally when you run bed leveling.  This carriage puts the Hemera extruder tip slightly higher in the build space (a good thing—allows more build height).  When adjusting this number higher, pay close attention to how much space is left between the z-axis bushings and the frame when the build plate is raised—don’t let it hit the frame.  In my case, for example:

M8026 I208;  MAX Z (BOTTOM LIMIT SWITCH Z-VALUE) (DETERMINES MAX BED TRAVEL AND MAX BUILD HEIGHT)

Put your new file on USB stick, and print it to set new values.

You should do a full extruder stepper calibration, and calibration cube print.  The e-steps given above are from my own calibration effort, and should get you close.

I found that I had to reduce extruder temperatures for all my filament types by 10-15 degrees, because the E3D extruder heated more efficiently.  That was okay with me, since I had to previously set them 10-15 degrees higher than recommended to get the Qidi extruder optimized.

NOTE:  The Hemera’s stepper motor operates best at higher nominal current than the Qidi motherboard produces.  Luckily, I’ve haven’t observed under extrusion nor missing extruder steps after making the change to the Hemera (probably due to tripling the torque from gear reduction), but it might cause skipping at high feed rates.  However, I believe there is a way to increase the current, if needed.  This is an advanced, UNPROVEN modification, so don’t take it lightly.  I found what I believe are stepper current sense resistors on the motherboard (next to the E2 stepper connector, chip resistors marked “R100” for 100mohms).  If I’m correct, they are used to measure the winding currents for comparison to the programmed reference voltage (which is hidden from us due to Qidi using “proprietary” firmware).  I suspect either changing these resistors to a lower value (R080), or paralleling something like 0.5ohms, will “trick” the drivers into sensing less current than reality.  I suspect this is the case, but never made the change, since the Hemera works well for me as is.  If you do try this somewhat risky mod, make sure you mount a better fan blowing directly down the length of the heatsink fins.  There are 2 of these resistors next to each stepper connector on the motherboard, corresponding to 2 motor windings.  According to information I found in forums, plus what Qidi and E3D have told me, here is what I figure:

•	Qidi stock driver current:  Unknown—somewhere between 0.6A and 0.8A
•	E3D Hemera “motor current”:  1.33A (from E3D datasheet—probably the maximum rating)
•	Driver current with 0.5ohm resistors in parallel:  increases from 0.72A to 0.96A (20% more current)

If you change your Qidi X-Plus or X-Max to use the E3D Hemera, please post questions and comments here.  I will try to be helpful.  I go through busy periods, and might not answer for a while, so please be patient.

As of the original date of this posting, I have put hundreds of hours on my Qidi X-Plus E3D Hemera mod with no issues, only with excellent results.  In my opinion, it increases the reliability and capability of the machine by an order of magnitude, and I highly recommend this upgrade.


E3D Hemera Extruder Carriage Upgrade to Qidi X-Plus

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4722055.

This drip hanger is designed for the Anycubic Photon Mono-X monochrome LCD resin printer.  It is intended to be installed permanently (no need to put it on or take it off for printing or drip function).  It allows one to print, then shift the build plate to the hanger for resin runoff into the vat prior to model removal.

One added benefit is the hanger acts as a guide to butt the build plate assembly against.  My build plate assembly has enough play (rotation with the clamp knob) that it used to require manual alignment to get it straight prior to printing.  This hanger prevents build plate twisting when tightening the knob.

Anycubic Mono X Drip Hanger

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4807233.

This is an airbrush stand and cleaning station that uses Ball brand wide mouth canning jars (the 16oz model is shown in the pictures).  It was designed for the SOTAR 20/20, but might fit other airbrushes as well.  You can print the included test file to check fit of your airbrush before committing the time and filament (or resin) needed to print the whole thing.

Features:

1. Great fit and positive lock on the SOTAR 20/20 airbrush.
2. You can flush out the airbrush by purging it while seated in the holder.
3. There is a conical washout funnel section for emptying and rinsing your airbrush paint cup.
4. The washout funnel has a discharge tube that prevents spray backflow from getting out the funnel (water level in the jar needs to be at least 1cm).
5. There is also a filter section with cap--load with cotton to prevent discharge of atomized paint when purging the airbrush.
6. For added convenience, you can mount the included cotton swab holder to the side for easy access when one is needed for wiping out your airbrush paint cup.  Use double sided tape to mount it.

Airbrush Station

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4763940.

This is a wet palette for acrylic model painting.  The top is held on by magnets, and is ergonomically designed to grip and open easily.  Here is an explanation of the included files:

WetPaletteV5Top.stl - Top cover of the palette
WetPaletteV5Bottom.stl - Bottom cover of the palette
WetPaletteV5TopCap.stl - Decorative patterned top surface of top cover (see notes)
WetPaletteV5CutTemplate.stl - A template used to tear properly sized sheets of parchment paper for use in the palette
WetPaletteV5.ini - My PrusaSlicer settings for the top and bottom sections of the palette
WetPaletteV5TopCap.ini - My PrusaSlicer settings for the decorative patterned surface of the wet palette top cover
WetPaletteV5CutTemplate.ini - My PrusaSlicer settings for the tear sheet cutter template

NOTES:

(1)  The palette can be resized up to roughly 10% smaller.  Smaller than that will result in the magnets not fitting in the recesses.
(2)  The Top Cap is not required--it is only decorative.
(3)  Both the Cut Template and the Top Cap are made with special slicer settings, such as no top and/or bottom layers (only patterned infill).  Refer to the ini files for these special settings.
(4)  This is designed for 5mm diameter, 1mm thick magnets.  They are easily available at Amazon (search).

Wet Palette

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4837425.

I take care of my daughter's dog once a week for a couple days while she works.  I needed a way to prevent this crazy 45lb puppy (a boxer) from eating every wood chip, rock, and piece of cat excrement in the yard, while also allowing her to wander in a limited radius, without the leash dragging on the ground and catching on things.  A retractable leash mounted high sounded like the best idea, but I could only commonly find them in 10ft and 16ft maximum extension lengths.  So, I made this device that provides a way to shorten the strap to whatever maximum length I want.

If Thingiverse keeps the photos I uploaded in the proper order, then they show the sequence followed for proper wrapping and securing of the strap on the Leash Keeper.

Leash Keeper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787089.

Brief description:

Curing platform expander (adds 1 inch to the diameter of the stock platform plus a short wall to prevent part from falling off if it moves), parabolic reflector, and raised platform (to allow simultaneous bottom side curing).

Purpose:

I've had many resin prints roll or vibrate off the stock Anycubic Wash and Cure rotating platform.  Also, the stock platform is smaller than it needs to be (it can be 1 inch larger).  So, I designed a simple drop in platform expander with a short retaining wall.  I also wanted to cure the bottom of my prints without having to reorient the model for a second curing cycle, so I designed a raised platform and parabolic reflector to direct some UV to the bottom of the model.

Curing Platform for Anycubic Wash and Cure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787119.

Paint bottle rack for Vallejo acrylic model paints.

Paint Rack for Vallejo Model Paints

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787123.

Paint rack for artist tube paints (such as Arteza brand).

Paint Rack for Artist Paint Tubes

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4790204.

Paintbrush rack with 2 water troughs for wash/rinse.  Made compact for a small workspace.

Paintbrush Wash and Rinse Rack

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4852428.

I made this drip stand to work with the excellent resin vat cover, Thing 4624023.  My goal was to have a drip stand that can be left on the vat stud, and coexist with a vat cover without any disassembly.  This drip stand was made from scratch in SolidWorks, but was inspired by Thing 4652029.

To use it:  Leave it in place during printing.  When print is finished, move the build plate with the finished print to the stand, and tighten the build plate attachment knob.  When finished printing for the day, return the build plate to the normal position, loosen (but don't remove) the nut where the drip stand is mounted, and rotate the drip stand 180 degrees, then install the vat cover.

Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K Drip Stand

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