Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575330.

Vase with semicircle twisted flutes

Vase with twisted semi circle flutes

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4581823.

A twist (pun intended) on my spiral vase  this one is double mirrored .

Three sizes shown The clear one is as designed, the colored one 150% and the black is 200%

Double Mirror Spiral Vase

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4625310.

Thanks for stopping in!

Please come back and post your makes! It motivates me and allows you to show off. It also encourages others to print it. 

I try to give you options here. That and the design work takes effort and time. Feel free to buy me an Ice Tea if you like by clicking that tip designer button. More filament means I can run more test prints!

There are three options. 
Hollow: use this one if you have a smaller nozzle or don’t like vase mode. Try three different colors. 
Solid: use this one for vase mode, especially if you have a 0.8mm or larger nozzle. Try different colors!
One piece: if you don’t want 3 colors and the illusion of three separate pieces use this one. I hid the connection points so nobody will know. 

Three part twisted vase 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4756251.

Minion Tim has arrived to join his tribe and (in his mind at least) watch over them like a father figure

He joins:

Kevin: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4713479
Bob:    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4722509
Stuart: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4729619

Supports on model will be needed only for the neck. 

Each part is already oriented as it should be printed. 

This is a multi part model that is friction fit. Simply print each piece and push them together.

There is one section that works best assembled in a certain order:

Put all the eye pieces into the goggles
Place goggle into the band. 
Place this to the skull with the flat side of the bridge towards the skull. The wider part of the skull touches the goggles.
Place the upper key through the goggle and band combination and into skull.

Assembling the rest is straight forward. You can see the hat is tilted, make sure you keep track of which side is down. As you place them on the upper key make sure they are titled as shown. 

If you read this far, you probably like this model, so do me a favor and scroll up and hit the like button. 

If you make him or any of the other Minions, please come back and post your make!






 Minion Tim multicolor

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568203.

Second half of my first project, a Rpi Case, Camera Mount and CR10 Upright support mount.

(The RPi Case was the first half - link below. This is the mount/clamp/Camera holder)

The Upright support on the CR-10 is a great place to mount things like a pi case and pi camera. I couldn't find one so I designed one. Designed to be compatible with most Go-Pro style attachments


If you are looking for a Rpi case also,  check out https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568162 

Pick a Top and bottom depending on your needs. Each one has either a horizontal, vertical or 45 deg angle bracket or no bracket.  I provided multiple size bars, multiple connectors and a camera holder. 

You will need M3x20 bolts with nuts (4ea) for the clamp and another one for each intersection.  The camera is friction fit.

CR10 Upright Support clamp and Pi Camera holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4801382.

UPDATE: Cura had a problem slicing one area. I think I corrected it. 
Number 6 in a series. 

Please hit the like button!

Minion Nic is a little known Minion. He just missed the casting call for the Minions Movie, butt you saw his brothers in the movie. He is of course naked because they hadn’t learned about clothes yet. As you can see, Nic is from Australia and was hunting with his boomerang. 

Like the rest, Nic is assembled by friction fit. 

The hair piece may benefit with a brim, unless you want a really messy hairdo. 

For assembly there is one tricky part. Insert hair into skull. Check hair carefully for elephants foot. Maybe even chamfer the bottom a little.  Once hair is in, lay goggles against skull. The side with the T printed on it goes against skull. Insert upper key into skull through goggles and then place band over key and into goggles. Continue on with the rest. 



Nic is right on the verge of being tipsy. His upper body can rotate to move the center of gravity a little - or just to pose him.  If you want a little more stability there is a “feet with stand” file. You can print that one with a change filament in your preferred slicer so that it prints the stand in say a light brown to represent sand and then change to yellow to do his actual feet. 

Minion Nic

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575309.

A vase with clover shaped twisted flutes

Vase with twisted Clover shape fillets

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4796435.

Number 5 in the series!

BEEE DOOOO BEEE DOOOO   BEEE DOOOO   BEEE DOOOO   BEEE DOOOO

Designed to be mostly friction fit. Couple of spot where glue may be smart

Assembly tricks

Place top key in skull
Place band and assembled goggle over key
Place assembly into neck

with right rib in shirt, place elbow pin in rib. 
Press lips into megaphone - it goes in only one way, you should see the alignment part
Glue Handle into megaphone
Glue R hand onto handle

Place wrist pin into arm.

Dry fit all of this onto rib and align lips to neck

with small amount of glue on lips and on elbow pin, reassemble and hold long enough for glue to set.


TEST FIT EVERYTHING BEFORE ANY GLUE!!!!  Oh yeah - also TEST FOT EVERYTHING BEFORE ANY GLUE


Shouldn't need any supports.   All the parts are aligned as the should be printed.

PLEASE post a pic of your make and hit the like button now.

See my designs for his brothers








Minion Carl (Bee Doo)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4856579.

** Update 5/17 - i had a typo in the instructions - the M5 Bolts needed are M5x12, not m5x8. Sorry about that  

* Update 5/13 - links were broken in instructions. Fixed

A Lighthouse design from my own mind. No real lighthouse exists!

This has a rotating LED light.

It can be printed without the electronics

Moderate level work in the Single Board Computer Parts. It uses an Arduino Nano, a Stepper Motor and a 7 LED NeoPixel Jewel. Instructions included. If you are new to SBCs - do that part first.

The toughest assembly part is getting the window rails lined up into the roof. Be careful.

The finial and entry roof are the only glued parts. All the rest are friction fit.

Assemble the railing, Railing top, Lamp House, Roof, finial and locking ring together as one assembly. Once the rest is put together, carefully lower it over the lamp and let is rest onto the three pillars of the stepper bracket. It is a tight fit over the lamp but it fits.

The Arduino Sketch and the instructions are in the .zip folder


 https://youtu.be/jBS85iyzyb0


Can be printed on a bed as small as 200MM x 200MM




Pt Arrowood Light

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4722509.

Continuation of a series. Bob is #2, after Kevin. ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4713479 )

Inspired by the artwork of reddadsteve.  https://www.thingiverse.com/reddadsteve/designs

Parts are oriented as they should be printed. 

You may want to use supports on the neck where the mouth prints. No other is needed.

Everything is friction fit. 

Please consider scrolling up and hitting the like button!
If you look at the bridge of the goggles - one side is curved other is straight. Straight goes up. 

Come back and post your makes. 

****Minion Stuart has arrived:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4729619

Minion Bob multi color

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4742837.

Before you ask, yes there is something wrong with me. Lol

This is a friction fit model of Humpty and his lessor known brother without a name. 

Pick your colors and have fun. 

For the egg, use your favorite slicer and insert a filament change after the first layer of the yoke starts. 

The eyes are the biggest challenge. I set the white into the black, then the color, then insert into shell.  Keep track of the parts and lay them out next to each other. They are mirror image and should be readily identified. 

The hat is tilted back. It must go together with the right face towards the front to make the peg align right. Insert the key into the top first. Then make sure the band is facing right and add it. Next the brim, then into the shell facing the right direction. 

The eye color pieces may need a brim. The shell may need supports for the openings. 

All pieces are arranged the way you should print them.

Enjoy the model

Please take a second to scroll up and hit like!

Come back and post your make if you print it, PLEASE. 





The Dumpty Twins

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4713479.

Inspired by the awesome art of reddadsteve ( https://www.thingiverse.com/reddadsteve/designs ) I set out to learn how to model Kevin in separate parts to assemble. Here it is. 

All of the parts are already oriented for proper printing with no supports. Everything is friction fit for MY PRINTER. 

Enjoy

UPDATE: he has a total of 5 brothers as of 22 Mar 2021
Follow me - Minion Bob is close to being done with design and I will start to print and then post
Minion Bob is here! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4722509
Stuart has also arrived. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4729619

Minion Kevin multi color

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4729619.

*** update 24 Jan:  asked on feedback uploaded a version 2 of the skull that has a little wider opening for the hair. Should make it a little easier to assemble.

Third in a series! If you like this, please scroll up and hit that like button. It helps get exposure. Check out the others in a link below. Follow me for future uploads. 

Minion Stuart! 

As I have said before, the great work of RedDadSteve inspired this collection.  Check him out!

Bob: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4722509

Kevin: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4713479

RedDadSteve: https://www.thingiverse.com/reddadsteve/designs





Minion Stuart Multi Color

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575484.

Five flute twisted vase

****Please post your makes!

Vase Twisted 5 flute

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4812368.

Three fluted vase 350MM tall

I included 3 options. 
A solid model so you can use “Vase mode” and set up how you like 
0.4 MM thick walls 
0.8 MM thick walls 
The last 2 have a 2mm thick bottom. 

If you want to make it extra stout, use vase mode model, print with zero top layer, zero infill and as many walls as you want. 

Three flute large vase

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4666301.

***Please consider hitting the like button. A small reward to me for sharing my efforts with you. 

This is a replica of an old fashioned bellows-style camera turned into a vase. 

It was designed for dry/fake flower and as such is not waterproof. 

I used Hatchbox PLA for all parts. 

The bottom and Lid are Medium Wood PLA
The supports and hinge are True Gold PLA 
The bellows is Magic Stone Brick
The top was started with Medium Wood and paused at layer to switch to True Gold PLA
The view finders are Carbon Fiber Black PLA. 



Mock Camera Vase

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4642262.

STOP! I appreciate you clicking this far, but do me a favor - scroll back up and hit that like button and the watch button. I expect there to be some additions and tweaks to this and I want you to see them. It also helps other folks see it.

This is a vase with an Adafruit Neopixel LED ring modeled on the INTERIOR of the vase. Hidden away! It magically shows the light when you plug it in.

This is a moderately advanced project. You'll not only be using your printing skills but also some single board computer skills - but don’t be intimidated - I was able to figure it out.

Some of my resources:

https://www.adafruit.com/

https://learn.adafruit.com/

https://www.adafruit.com/category/168

https://www.arduino.cc/

https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_DotStar/blob/master/examples/strandtest/strandtest.ino

PARTS LIST:

https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-NeoPixel-Ring-Integrated-Drivers/dp/B00KBXT9I0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=28LNWK21WU4X2&dchild=1&keywords=neopixel+ring+16&qid=1603968437&sprefix=neopixel+ring%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/LAFVIN-Board-ATmega328P-Micro-Controller-Arduino/dp/B07G99NNXL/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=VGAP22DETBZ0&dchild=1&keywords=arduino+nano&qid=1603968489&sprefix=ardui%2Caps%2C432&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFDOVBDNTRUVERNRVUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNzA4OTZRM0o2TlkyTDhNNDYmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDc0MTMwMEYwVlBGRkpMRzFTVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU
=

OPTIONAL:
https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3C4YV8023N2CZ&dchild=1&keywords=arduino+jumper+wires&qid=1603968584&sprefix=arduino+ju%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Project-Tutorial-Controller-Projects/dp/B01D8KOZF4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1ZD3WAONNAE2J&dchild=1&keywords=arduino+starter+kit&qid=1603968751&sprefix=arduino+%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNllNSTFOMzQzWUsxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDc1OTU5MzhaMkVUTlVLT0RKMiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDAxMzc2M1RTT1dKR0NNR05TQiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU
=

I can't try to teach you Arduino Nano stuff here, but the resources are above. The starter kit is a lot of fun.

You will need some basic soldering skills. Your first step is to solder leads onto the LED ring. The Jumper Wire kit listed above is cheap and will give you spare stuff to play with. the wires will NOT fit through the hole in the vase with the connectors on. Cut the wire and set the FEMALE end aside. Leave just enough wire on the female end to be able to strip and solder later. Cut the other end off at the connector. Solder the three wires (5V, Ground and Data IN onto the ring. Pay attention to the best routing of wires to one location.

This is a good time to test your Nano, your sketch and your soldering. Hook everything up and make sure it works. There is no going back to test soldering or function once you print without destroying your print.

The first thing to print is the base top and bottom. Those are easy. They are friction fit so you may need minor post processing especially if you have a little elephant foot. Set them aside.

OK - time to start the vase print. You need to set a pause at height command in your slicer at about 9MM. Begin the print when you know you will be available at the pause. When it pauses, route the wires through the hole and place the ring in place. I'd tape the wires to the bed just so they don't end up catching the print head. Complete the print!

Once the vase is done, solder the female connectors back on, protect the joint with tape or heat shrink and plug them onto the nano and plug it in!

Don't forget - LIKE LIKE LIKE, follow and feel free to tip!


Vase with hidden LED ring

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4881753.


Update! The cordless version is now available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4893048

Who doesn’t remember the magic 8 ball? Ask it a yes or no type question, turn it over to see the answer!

Two versions are available. One where magnets keep the two halves together and one that is just pressure fit. 

If you use the magnetic version double-triple check the magnet polarity as you push them in.  You have one chance to get it right.  Do one half at a time. Take a spare magnet and mate it with the one you are about to push in. Mark the outside face of the spare magnet. Keep them together as you press it in.  Use that spare magnet for the other two keeping that face out. When done, double check that the spare sticks to all with the marked face up. That face will now go down in the other half.

The “8” portion is a pressure fit. Should not need any glue. Might need small amount of convincing to get in place. 

The screen and Nano both pressure fit into place in the bottom. Screw holes for an M2 bolt of 5-8MM are available and you shouldn’t need more than one. You can chose to glue. 

All parts are listed below. You will need some jumper wires and/or soldering skills. The screen needs to either have right angle header pins or be soldered.  Normal header pins will interfere with the fit. You will also need a micro USB data cable to program and power the nano. 

I am not going to go into an Arduino or coding lesson here. https://www.arduino.cc/ has plenty of that available. 

Put a watch on this thing as I plan to tweak the sketch some to make the display more interesting. 

As always - please hit like above. 


5 Pieces 0.96 Inch OLED Module 12864 128x64 SSD1306 Driver IIC I2C Serial Self-Luminous Display Board Compatible with Arduino Raspberry PI (White)
by Chanketch
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LYL7QFQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_0JAK1WMK25DHMCT2DG7R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Arduino Nano 33 BLE [ABX00030]
by Arduino
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WV59YTZ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_3FZGS8AF0NVJMB469J3Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

=========== or. ===========

Arduino Nano 33 BLE with Headers [ABX00034]
by Arduino
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WXKWNQF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_79YQCE5D0Y090NFVS3JH



Round Refrigerator Magnets, 100PCS 6×3MM Small Cylinder Fridge Magnets, Office Magnets, Whiteboard Magnets, Durable Mini Magnets
by GBYMIUY
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07873ZCY4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_AM3FVMFF3WC0143B1CZB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Magic 8 Ball

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568162.

(My very first design!) 

A case for Raspberry Pi 4B with a 25 MM Fan and a clamp to attach to a Go-Pro style mount. A link to a mount for the upright supports on a CR 10 is attached below. 

This design is intended to be 100% friction fit. The first couple of prints I looked at for R-Pi all needed hardware. REALLY didn't want to go to the hardware store or wait several days for Amazon to deliver. (of course I did get a bolt assortment eventually).  If you chose you can use M3-16s to attach the fan. The posts are the weakest element but the work if you don’t twist them.

Be careful on post production and not overdue and ruin the friction fit.

You will need to print 3 of the key blocks and 2-4 of the fan posts. Unless you are dialed in on your settings you might want to print them one at a time instead of batch.

The clamp for the CR10 V2/V3 upright is located here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4568203


Watch the print in an Octolapse video here: https://youtu.be/qCqEPeU6B68


Pi Case for CR10 Z Axis Upright 25MM Fan and Pi Cam

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4893048.

Remake of my plug-in magic 8 ball. 

You will need some basic Arduino and soldering skills for this. You can get the info you need for the Arduino skills at www.Arduino.cc  

With a little bit of practice and training you can easily change all of the responses. 

Setting up electronics on a breadboard print to printing is a good idea. 

Wiring setup:
Battery holder:
Positive to B+ on Charger Board
Negative to B- on Charger Board

Charger Board:
Out+ to PIN 30 (VIN) on Nano 33
Out- to PIN 29 (GND) on Nano 33

Nano 33:
PN 4 (GND) to GND on OLED
PIN 17 (3.3v) to VCC on OLED
PIN 23 to SDA on OLED
PIN 24 to SCL on OLED


PART LIST:

Jumper wires and/or soldering setup.

Battery holder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LSG5BKO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_66Q4CJF6CMS4ZG26CWQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Charger board
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LTQU2RK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_SNPDM7BEHPXMW4NR1PA1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Nano
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WV59YTZ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_Z8989X72S619W05CXSWT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Screen
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LYL7QFQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CP87FPW8CZRK0F9EV4GM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Magnets:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07873ZCY4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MC788KGSXTP0GN3GPN6W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Any 18650 battery





Magic 8 ball with battery 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789656.

**** Check out this one also: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4812000  (I think it is better for the CR10 V2/V3 as less chance for interference on a tall print. It is what is on my printer now)

This one was designed to have the shorter sided of the heat block to the front and back. If you want the longer sides front and back, check out this remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4864920



Complete system to mount a BIQU H2 to a Crealty CR-10 V2 or V3.

Route heater and thermistor wire between mount and plate. Heater wire should exit heat block on the left side as you look at the printer. 

Will require M3 bolts and nuts. 

Attach mount to H2, assembly to printer, duct to H2 and finally the fan. 

My BTT Smart filament sensor mount is included. 

Recommend printing mount solid. (100% infill or 999 bottom layers however you wish). 

The fan duct was designed for a 0.4 nozzle and .12 layers. I have reports that .2 layers have worked. 



BIQU H2 System for CR-10 V2 or V3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4701766.

Added some LEDs that needed more power that RPi could provide. Needed to add a level board, 5V power and wiring for the LEDs. 

Decided to make a case for it all.  This is all self contained. The 5V adapter, and a 4PIN JST connector are press fit into place. A clip holds the RPi securely in place. The fan is bolted on with M2x8 machine bolts. 

If you are looking at my wiring: 
YELLOW: data from GPIO10
BLACK: ground
RED: 5V
GREEN: 3.3V

I am powered via POE and a splitter, on the LAN.

RPi Project Box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4764077.

STOP: Check out this first: UPDATE 10March: complete redesign posted as new model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789656

UPDATE 21 Feb 2021: provided a new mounting plate with less weight, updated sensor mount

Mount for BIQU H2 on a CR10 V2/V3

Use fan shroud from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4042492

BTT smart sensor bracket should mounted to H2, plug in, then mount sensor to bracket.

Mount H2 to adapter with M3x12

Mount adapter to carriage with M3x12 with nuts towards the front. Use the two oblong holes at top and two corner holes on bottom. 

Mount fan adapter to H2 with M3x8

Mount fan to duct and adapter with m3x25 with nuts. 

Use of washers is recommended.
Uses a 5015 fan 

New BLTouch offset is 59.5 for X axis. 

UPDATE V4 version of fan adapter is stronger and more height adjustment 

BIQU H2 mount CR10 v2/v3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4658808.

A bit of a torture test for checking your bed settings. Level? Z-offset? First layer height?

Print at 0.2 layer height as this is just a single layer.

Bed Calibration level and Z-offset

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4812000.

Update: 24 April 2021: moved the blowers 1.5 mm away from heat block

Update: 08Apr2021: fixed wall in one place. 

Fan duct for a 5015 Fan on a BIQU H2.  Designed to avoid interferences on X or Z

The two pieces are friction fit. Takes a tiny bit of convincing but they slid together.  

This is designed for setup where the heat block is aligned front to back.

 BIQU H2 Fan duct

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4835805.

Replace your control box exhaust and board fans on CR10 V2/3

You will need an assortment of M3 bolts and some nuts to complete this project. 

The design allows you to pull nuts into the base before attaching fans. Use a shorter bolt and some washers on the bolt head and pull nuts to slot. Remove bolts and just larger bolts to bolt fans on in a later step. 

Open case and disconnect fans from board. 

Set case bottom aside. 

Bolts two pieces together. 

Bolt fans on. The one towards the front should have sticker down (exhaust) the back one sticker up (intake). 

Test fit fan wiring. I had to extend the front one. 

Orient feet up

Print 6 foot cushions from TPU if you wish



CR 10V2/3 Control box fan stand 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4810599.

This one is pretty simple. Replaces stock sensor 

Updated upon further prototyping. 

4 M3 bolts with washers used. 

CR10 V2 BTT Smart Sensor mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4698159.

A direct drive mount for the BTT Smart Filament Sensor. 

Please scroll back up and hit the like button. Once you have it done, post a pic of your make here. 

STOP THE FLOP!

Places the sensor close to the extruder, reducing false read errors caused by slack during the X Movements and retractions. 

YES, we can see in the photo that BTT MUST HAVE printed the wording upside down. ;)

Ok - it just makes things more stable and the sensor works in either direction. 

I picked up this sensor at https://www.fabreeko.com/collections/essentials/products/bigtreetech-smart-filament-sensor





BTT Smart Filament Sensor Direct Drive Mount

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