Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6124062.

I made the lego man toilet paper holder and I got the comment from my daughter that it was not a girl... Yes indeed...

This is a remix from the original Lego Man Toilet Paper Holder.

I remixed the hair from : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1427220.

You can multi-color print it directly or print it separatly and assemble it.
The scale factors here below are indicative.



Lego Girl Toilet Paper Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5114531.

I am using the Sunlu Dryer for storing and using my filament. But the simple hole for letting the filament out is not enought.

To fix this I designed an adapter to connect a pc4m10 or pc6m10 (conical) pneumatic connection.

The hole being 6 mm in the box, the adapter consists of a bottom part M6 screw with a hole inside connecting to the top part receiving the pneumatic connector.

 Sunlu Dryer PTFE adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5165883.

Simple pot cover.


Simple pot cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5184387.

I made a container to store the small books from Peppa pig's advent book collection 2021 for my daugher. 



Peppa Pig Box for Advent Book Collection

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5147881.

I made a joyeux Noël sign that I can stick on my entrance door (metal).

I designed it wtih fittings to be able to put small 6x3 mm magnets.



Joyeux Noël sign for door (magnetic)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4674313.

I am using the Polybox for storing and using my filament but the way the big 6mm ptfe tubes are attached to the box are really poor.

To fix this I designed an adapter to connect the 6mm ptfe tube to a pc6m10 pneumatic connection.

The hole being 8 mm in the box, the adapter consists of a bottom part M8 screw with a hole inside connecting to the top part receiving the pneumatic connector.


 PolyBox PTFE adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4858243.

I am using the nice enclosure provided by 3d upfitters and I wanted to improve a little bit the air management system (fancy name for number of fan) of the enclosure.

To do so I need to find a way to add a second fan but the only way to do it was to use the grommet holes available on the back/top of the enclosure.

So, I made up an adapter for a 60mm fan to the 49.5mm diameter hole. It is simply a screw/nut solution.

The nut has a grid for safety purpose. I also add a grid for the fan itself. We never know.
As per mounting instruction you should first mount the fan to the adapter and then screw the whole assembly with the nut to the enclosure wall.



3d upfitters 60mm fan adapter for the grommet holes

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4660535.

I was not happy with the door knob given with my 3dupfitters enclosure so I designed a new one.

Is uses a M4x12  screw and the corresponding flat head given with the enclosure.



3dupfitters door knob

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4783427.

I loved the idea of using Octoprint along with a UI accessible from a touch screen. Though, all available solutions I found for the front panel are considering touch screens using Raspberry Pi’s GPIO interface. For me this was inconvenient for many reasons.

Using available solutions would force me to attach the screen directly behind the screen and therefore in the LCD panel. This is for me problematic because this way I lose the possibility of using the GPIO interface for other purposes (such as enclosure control application) and also I would have many cables popping out of the front control panel.

Secondly, I wanted to have the Raspberry Pi elsewhere. Typically, I have it located above the RAMBO board.

To tackle this, I wanted to use the DSI interface to be able to connect a touch screen trough this interface. Benefit from my point of view is that with the help of a DSI ribbon cable I could basically uncouple screen and raspberry pi and have my GPIO free. Also a nice advantage is that these types of screens are plug n play solutions.

So, I chose this screen a 3.5” touch screen from OSOYOO with DSI interface. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08634Y16L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Doing so I also notice that I could not directly use any Ribbon cable connected to the screen, I need to use ribbon cable from the same supplier. As said before, my raspberry Pi is located “far away” from the control panel, therefore I need either to purchase a longer ribbon from the supplier or use a DSI/CSI extender and be able to use any cable I wanted. 
I went for the second option and purchased from Adafruit such device:  https://www.adafruit.com/product/3671 

Starting from the original panel I extended it to right and created a slot for the touch screen. 

To compact the setup, I am not using the 11mm hexagonal spacer that comes with the screen but instead replace it by a 5mm hexagonal space with a 4mm M2.5 screw.
The supports used to attach the panel to the frame of the Prusa is directly merge to the panel. There is no need to add any bigger foot to the printer to fit the panel.
For cable management basically I am following the same path as the LCD ribbons. So it’s neat.

In the available file you will find also the letters if you want to have a 2 color print.

Bill of Material:
•	OSOYOO 3.5” touch screen https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08634Y16L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
•	CSI/DSI extender https://www.adafruit.com/product/3671
•	M2.5 hex Brass spacers size male to female spacers are 5+4 mm.
o	I got mine from the Heatsink shield I am using for the Raspberry Pi. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z3Q417K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 
o	You can check my case using this shield by clicking this link.
•	Long DSI/CSI cable, function of your needs.
•	4 M3 6mm screws.
•	4 M2.5 hexagonal nuts.
•	2 M2.5 6mm screws to attach the DSI extender (Optional).
•	2 M2.5 nuts for the DSI extender (Optional).





PRUSA MK3S Front panel for DSI OSOYOO 3.5" touch screen

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4918063.

Replacement part for your Xouxou rope if you loose them...



Xouxou rope replacement parts

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4681805.

I wanted to use the amazing support from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849 to be able simply to use the Raspberry Pi camera as surveillance camera.

So I remixed the mounting to be able to mount the ballnutt / gbloak / thumbolt assembly.

My foot can be printed in PLA where I recommend using harder material for the ballnut and screw (PETG).

So to have the full assembly you need to print the foot plus these part from the Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3 and MK2 :

- raspiCamCover 
- raspiCamBack
- BallNut (PETG)
- Thumb_Bolt (PETG)
- gBlock_v2


Foot Mount for Raspberry Pi Camera

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4757335.

I am using an enclosure from 3dupfitters for my Prusa MK3 and I wanted to use the multicam possibility offered by octoprint.
Only problem was to find an elegant way to position the second web cam in the enclosure knowing I am already using a raspberry pi camera installed with the amazing Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3 and MK2 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849.
The system is so nice I have decided to reuse it for my second camera. For this purpose, I have purchased an Arducam 8MP 1080P USB Camera module which is similar to the raspberry pi camera but a little biger.  https://www.arducam.com/product/b0196arducam-8mp-1080p-usb-camera-module-1-4-cmos-imx219-mini-uvc-usb2-0-webcam-board-with-1-64ft-0-5m-usb-cable-for-windows-linux-android-and-mac-os/
I remixed the case to fit the module with the previous mentioned attachment system : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754707.
To mount the new bracket once printed it is important to mount the first link prior to mounting the bracket back to the enclosure. But the nut on the face facing the outside of the enclosure.
 Also for cable management you can use the pretty l shape bracket to use a zip tie to hold the usb cable from the additional camera. https://www.3dupfitters.com/blogs/news/mount-stuff-on-your-enclosure-with-new-bracket-design
In a nutshell, it is a remix bracket for the 3dupfitters enclosure to mount a new web cam. No support needed.


3dupfitters corner bracket with male link for articulating raspberry pi camera

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4899613.

I am using Octoprint (https://octoprint.org/) to manage my 3d printer and I bumped into a really nice plugin called “OctoPrint-Enclosure” (https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/enclosure/). 
I found the functionality brought by this plugin useful as I am myself using and Enclosure for my printer.

The very same person who wrote this plugin, vitormhenrique, posted a thing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2245493) where he was sharing his hardware set up. 
At this point I got really scared by the amount of cable swarming everywhere as I am myself trying to keep my “working place” as neat as possible.

So, I started to look around trying to find an all-integrated solution for my enclosure. This is where I found the nice project on hackaday called “Octoshield” (https://hackaday.io/project/172223-octoshield). It is basically a HAT rerouting Raspberry Pi’s GPIO and having all electronics component already assembled (handy). So, you simply need to connect your sensor, your switch, LEDs and other fans to your Raspberry Pi and install the plugin for having everything operational (cool).

Only problem is that you need to build it yourself and because I am  not found of soldering tiny things I decided to “subcontract” the production of the HAT to the company mentioned in the Youtube video link of the Hackaday project. This project has been realized by goodwin for which I must give all credit to (good job).

In a nutshell the “Octoshield” HAT allows you to :
-	Plug a temperature sensor
-	Plug a 5V fan to cool the Raspberry Pi
-	Plug a 12V fan for your enclosure
-	Add an input (switch or sensor)
-	Plug RGB LED stripes
-	Plug Neopixel LED stripes
-	Control a relay
-	Power the raspberry pi with a 12V power input instead of the 5V USB C.

To keep things shorts, you must purchase the Printed Circuit Board (or PCB) which is cheap to be honest (You get 5 pieces for 40$ I think). Then you have the possibility either to weld all components by yourself, meaning that you must source all parts yourself, or you have the possibility to ask the PCB company to do it for you (yes!). They will source the components and have them mounted for you. This will cost you an extra 40$. Otherwise, I think you can get all component for 10$.

I am attaching the component list for the HAT, other relevant information to have the HAT built and the details of the purchasing basket I used. The team is friendly, and they will help you build it easily. I must admit my interest in electronic does not go that deep, but you do not really need to know a lot to order the PCB fully assembled.

Once I received my “Octoshields” (I order more than one fully assembled) and after making the different test to have all component working with  “OctoPrint-Enclosure” plugin I started designing the case for the Raspberry Pi + Octoshield + All component. As mentioned, before I wanted to have enclosure function all included in a box so to have something compact and neat (bad cables, bad).

For this project, my requirements were as follow (following Octoshield capacities):
-	Have a temperature + humidity sensor to monitor my enclosure environment.
-	Be able to control the printer’s PSU trough a relay (On/Off)).
-	Control the air management in the enclosure (Fans).
-	Cool down the Raspberry Pi4 (Must be done it is over heating).
-	Have a Raspberry Pi Cam plugged.
-	Have a Webcam plugged.
-	Have a DSI screen plugged.
-	Power the Raspberry Pi.
-	Mount it to my printer’s frame.

I designed a case as compact as possible to be able to fit all component and have opening for every cables.

Mounting instruction are given here below


Octoshield Case for Raspberry Pi 4 for Prusa Mk3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754707.

I wanted to use the amazing support from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849 to be able simply to use the Raspberry Pi with an Arducam IMX219 camera module camera as surveillance camera.

So I remixed the raspiCamCover_NoLense file and raspiCamBack file to be able to fit the camera module who is bigger than the raspi cams.

This allows me to use multiple camera with small form factor to monitors my printing.

Update : added a new version of the back part with a hole for a M2.5 screw allowing to block the assembly in position.

Arducam IMX219 USB camera case for Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3 and MK2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4773724.

This is a remix from the project https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579935.

The goal was to mount an Raspberry Pi 4 directly on the frame of the Prusa i3 MK3S+ a look alike.

As per previous made version the case is small and as compact as possible.
Main change is the new opening for the DSI connector of the Pi allowing me to plug a screen to the Pi.
The spirit was for me to be able to plug such screen without having to use the GPIO connector that would require me to have the board right behind the screen.
With this setup I am able to have the Pi positioned above the Rambo board and have the screen deported somewhere else connected with a ribbon cable.

Other esthetical modification is that I used honeycomb pattern for the vent opening.

All peripheral ports accessible (not the Pi headers).
Break away window for Pi-cam and screen DSI connector.

To complete the assembly you will need 

For this you will need this shield :
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z3Q417K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

4 M2.5x5 Screws (not included with the kit)
4 M2.5x8 Screws (not included with the kit)
2 M3x10 Screws (for mounting the case to the printer)

Assembly instruction (as per previous project):

- Follow the instructions for preparing the plate to attach it to the Raspberry Pi4.

- Take the 4 of the smallest standoffs included with the kit. There will be 8 of these, make sure these are the standoffs with the shortest posts. This is important as, the threaded holes on the cooling plate are not segmented. This might cause conflict in trying to tightening things up (found this out from personal experience) if using the longer of the two options.

- Take the Pi4 and slot it into the case bottom. Take the plate and align it to the top of the Pi4. Slip the 4 M2.5x8 screws into the holes, tighten the screws lightly, in a diagonal fashion in order to ensure the plate stays aligned. Once all of them have been started, tighten to snug, be careful not to over tighten.

- Take the 4 standoffs and screw them into the holes on top of the plate, making sure they are secure but again, do not over tighten. Plug in the fan per the instructions for the cooling plate.

- Take the case top and slot it into place over the Pi4, being careful to not pinch the fan cable. Secure the top with the 4 M2.5x5 screws.

- Secure the case to the back of the printer with the 2 M3x10 screws. Plug in the cables and insert your SD card and you are done

Raspberry Pi4 case for Prusa MK3S+ with DSI opening 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4884122.

I needed another Nozzle for my Dyson Vacuum cleaner.

Most of the work has been done by Lawrence Cuthbert on Grabcad https://grabcad.com/library/dyson-quick-release-adapter-1 .
I simply finish the work by adding the nozzle shape of my needs.

I made 2 version.

On simple tube that I can use for vacuum bags. The tip is always round and Dyson does not provide such nozzle shape...
A another one which is a rectangular tip end but smaller than the one provided.

The nozzles are compatible with the Dyson's locking system.
You need to print both nozzle and lock.
You need also to get on spring: 0.6mm diameter wire, 10mm diameter uncompressed length 17mm ~3 working coils at least.
For printing the nozzle, I would suggest to use support for the hanging parts.
For better finishing I print the lock with 0.1 resolution.
For the nozzle I choose 0.2mm



Dyson Quick Release Nozzle V7 V8 V10

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4874258.

I needed a case to assemble my Raspberry Pi 4 with the cooling solution from GeekWorm (P165-A) and a DSI screen from Osoyoo (3.53).

The designed is composed by 2 part that are assemble together with 4 M3x20 screws.

Instead of using the screws provided with the P165-A, you need to use 4 M2.5x16 screws.
This way you can assemble both bottom part of the case, the raspberry pi board, the heat sink and the screen all together.

On top of this I remixed the Raspberry Pi camera case from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849 to be able to mount a camera with the case.
Use again a M3x20 screw and a M3 nut to assemble it.

You might need to do some ribbon cable management to avoid the ribbon touching the fan inside.

Here below the different things you need for this assembly :

https://www.amazon.com/Geekworm-Raspberry-Embedded-Compatible-Expansion/dp/B07Z3Q417K/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=p165A&qid=1622456210&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Touchscreen-Raspberry-Capacitive-Compatible/dp/B08634Y16L/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=osoyoo+3.5&qid=1622456229&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Camera-Module-Megapixel/dp/B01ER2SKFS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=raspberry+pi+camera&qid=1622456250&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y6ZZ674/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5 M3x20 screws
1 M3 nut

Case for Raspberry Pi 4  + GeekWorm P165-A + Osoyoo Screen 3.5"

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4897586.

Designed a magnetic connector for a 3 pins spring loaded pogo header from millmax.

https://www.mill-max.com/products/socket/854-xx-xxx-10-003101
https://www.mill-max.com/products/socket/858-xx-xxx-10-001101

You will need to assemble everything for each pair :

- 8 neodymium 6 mm diameter 2 mm thickness  
- 4 M2.5 8mm screws
- 4 M2.5 10mm screws





Magnetic connector for a 3 pins spring loaded pogo

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4858344.

I am using the nice enclosure provided by 3d upfitters and I wanted to improve a little bit the air management system (Change the fan size) of the enclosure.

The enclosure is provided either with an 80mm fan or 60mm depending on if you use the filter or not.

Well, I needed to use an old 92mm fan, so I simply did a “me-too“ of the 80mm adapter part compatible with my 92mm fan.

Also made a fan grid for safety reason.

92mm Fan to 60mm Adapter for 3d upfitters enclosure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4642110.

I have the Cosmo Ride light for my bike but the support provided with the remote and the light is really bad and felt apart after few month.

I have then decided to replace it with a system allowing me to quickly attach/detach it using magnets (6mm diameter x 3 depth).

The remote support is designed for a 24 mm rode and for the light used as rear light a 27 mm rod.

Use zip ties to attach them.

Cosmo Ride magnetic support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4858269.

I am using the nice enclosure provided by 3d upfitters and I wanted to improve a little bit the air management system (Change the fan size) of the enclosure.

The enclosure is provided either with an 80mm fan or 60mm depending on if you use the filter or not.

Well, I needed to use an old 92mm fan, so I simply did a “me-too“ of the 80mm adapter part compatible with my 92mm fan.

Also made a fan grid for safety reason.


92mm Fan Adapter for 3d upfitters enclosure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4876047.

This is a simple "cable case".

I am controlling my 3D printer's PSU with a relay.
So I need to derivate the "live" line from my power cord toward the relay and back the the power cord connecting to the # printer.

To make it easier , I use a power cord extension cut half.
The "female part" of the power cord extension is connected (welded) to the 3D printer's power cord.

The  "male part" of the power cord extension is connected to the relay controlling the PSU.

This allows me 2 things : having a well protected 2 wire power cable and be able to connect and disconnect the Relay from the PSU power cord if I need to do some maintenance.

After printing the 2 halfs of the cable case, cut your PSU's power cord in half, take the sheath away and  do the same for all 3 wires.
You need actually to shorten the blue and green cable (ground and phase cable) on both ends. The reason is that the brown wire (live) should be longer to reach the other side of the T junction.

Same operation with the power cord extension, cut it in half, and take away the extremal sheath and expose the wires.

I recommend using a 2 wire power cord (the PSU power cord is a 3 wire type).

Now you need to reconnect the cables, I mean weld them.
I don't enjoy soldering, welding things so I found this really nice and neat solution to reconnect cables :

https://www.amazon.com/Kuject-Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B073RMRCC3/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Welded+and+Sealed+Wire+Joints+awg+22-18&qid=1622639308&sr=8-4 

It is a welded and sealed wire joints. Really easy to use and not messy at all.
I used the red ones.

You need to reconnect:
- the green wire (ground) to the other green wire (ground).
- the blue wire (phase) to the other blue wire (phase)

So far so good we simply reconnected what we cut before.

Now we need to take one brown wire (live) and connect it to on of the wire of the extension cable , in my case white wire.
Do the same with the remaining brown cable and the remaining wire on the extension cable.

Once every thing is connected assemble the "cable case " arround the joints.

Use M2.5 screws to assemble to 2 halfs ad you are set.
 





T junction for PSU to Relay power cord 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4905740.

Big Joyeux Noël Sign for Christmas.

Big Joyeux Noël Sign

UN grand Joyeux noel a poser devant son sapin

Grand Joyeux Noel

Joyeux v4.1.stl

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