Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4750431.

This is a push-on cable chain mount for the Ender 3 (Pro/V2). No screws required, no disassembly of existing parts required.

This pushes on to the top of the sled near the X stepper motor and provides an attachment point for a cable chain for the hotend cables.

This is compatible with most of the popular cable chains, such as https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060

Notes: 
- This is designed to be a tight fit. If you find that it won't fit, you may need to reduce your flow rate a bit.
- The first chain link is backwards from the rest of the chain, this is so that portion doesn't bend as sharply up.

Ender 3 Cable Chain Gantry Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4859361.

This is a custom mount point for this camera mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849

The articulating camera mount is great, but I wanted to mount it to the gantry of my Ender 3's. There is an existing remix that is similar but the design required it to be printed with supports.

This mount fits over the top of the right Z sled. It's a tight fit and should stay in place with friction alone. If your sled was assembled with the nut facing forward you will need to swap the bolt around so the bold head is facing forward instead.

This can be printed without supports in this orientation:
![orientation](https://i.imgur.com/nRm7aQc.png)


Gantry Mount for Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4681566.

This is a small box that houses 2 push buttons, with covers. The base can be attached in front-right of an Ender 3 (pro), just in front of the LCD, using the existing 2 screws at the end of the 40x40 rail.

These buttons are hooked up to a Raspberry Pi that runs OctoPrint which controls my printer. One button is a cancel button, the other runs a 'reset wifi' script (the wifi on the RPi can be quite flakey at times). I designed this to have covers because I did not want to accidently press one of them during a print.

This is designed to use [these buttons](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WPYBYDX/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNVUpCS0VUMU0zUUUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5MzcyNTExM0Q2TzdDREdUQ1FFJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMjg2OTczQ0tOUFJKRlc0TjlFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU%3D&fbclid=IwAR3OX7jw7kSsM_QeA---vmIueNUdh4KcrtKKKBsmVTMCPKwhJDVM8u7KHm0), but I expect any similar size button should work.

For reference, those buttons have a diameter of ~6.75mm (where the threads are) and are about 12mm tall from the base of the threads.

*update 2021-01-30:* 
 - Added base_left_single.stl - this is another single button base that fits on the left side of the printer, on the front of the 40x40 rail next to the board enclosure, with a single screw.
 - Made the holes in base.stl a bit bigger (both for the screws and the buttons)

Push button mount housing and covers - Ender 3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4902336.

This is a *landscape* oriented case and mounting bracket for the color DWIN LCD screen included with the Ender 3 v2. Brackets for mounting to either the left or right side of the printer are included (left pictured).

![Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/FZBSaB0.jpg)

**No**, the landscape UI shown in the pictures is not the stock UI! The UI shown is an implementation of 'MarlinUI' for the Ender 3 v2's LCD that is now available in Marlin release 2.0.9.2. To use this specific layout, build Marlin 2.0.9.2 (or bugfix-.2.0.x) and use the [MarlinUI config example](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/release-2.0.9.2/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20V2/MarlinUI). Don't forget to flash the DWIN too!

**Additional parts required**
 - M3 6mm screw x 3
 - *(optional)* M3 8mm screw, M3 nut x 3 (to be used with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3050607 instead of stock M4 screws and tnuts)

**Parts to print:**
Both:
 - ender 3 v2 dwin case-Back.stl
 - ender 3 v2 dwin case-Front.st

One of the brackets:
 - Stock 4mm screws and t-nuts from the v2's lcd mount:
  - ender 3 v2 dwin case-MountLeft-stockscrews.stl
  - ender 3 v2 dwin case-MountRight-stockscrews.stl
 - M3 screws with t-nuts (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3050607):
   - ender 3 v2 dwin case-MountLeft.stl
   - ender 3 v2 dwin case-MountRight.stl

**Printing**
Print each part 'face down', 0.2mm layer height, 10-20% gyroid infill, 3 perimeters, no supports. If you are using a translucent filament like I did, you may want to print the front 100% infill instead.

Print orientations:
Front:
![Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/ggbo42C.png)

Back:
![Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/NQLl9xV.png)

Mount:
![Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/sJo6z5r.png)

**Assembly/Notes**

*Don't forget: you have to remove the encoder knob to remove the LCD from the stock case!* It will come off, but it may take a bit of force since it's probably been glued on.

The back part has a thin layer over the screw holes. This is intentional and is done so that the part will print properly without supports. Use the small screwdriver that comes with the printer or one of the hex wrenches, and 'punch' through this thin layer before assembling the case.

The 4 M3 screws holding the stock case together can be used to secure the back part to the front.

Ender 3 v2 LCD Landscape Case and Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4843677.

A simple tool to release the pressure from a pinlock keg ('corny' style). Most pinlock kegs do not come with a lid that includes a manual release valve, so this fits onto the 'air' post (2 pins) and depresses the poppet, allowing the pressure to be released.

Knurled surface should make putting it on and removing from the air post easy.

2021-04-30 - For some reason the first model I uploaded had a small lip around the top. It didn't seem to actually get printed that way, but I've fixed it anyway. The STL is named the same.

Pinlock Keg Depressurizer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4674660.

These are BoothyBoothy's 5015 35 deg fan ducts for the Hydra, but with the 'bump' on the inside removed.

See my comment here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242/comments#comment-4098757

I found that bump was causing the ducts to warp (PLA) or crack (ABS) due to the stress it was putting on the very thin wall opposite. And, the fan fits very well without it, so it doesn't seem to be needed at all.

Print with supports from bed only, the same as the original fan ducts.

Hydra Fan Duct - 5015 35deg ducts with no 'bump'

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4593244.

A beer faucet ('tap') handle with the World of Warcraft Horde symbol on it.

This has threads for a standard 3/8"-16 faucet lever. It fits like most handles, a bit loosely, so you'll need a nut to tighten up against the bottom of it.



Horde Tap Handle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575297.

This is a simple beer faucet (tap) handle with the word "STOUT" on it. Obviously for use on a tap that has a keg of stout hooked up!

It's a pretty compact and short handle because I have my faucets at the top of my refrigerator door, and anything too high would be hit by the freezer door when it opens.

The threads are built in and should thread onto a standard beer faucet lever that has 3/8"-16 threads. Like most handles, the threads are a bit loose, so you need to use a bottom nut to tighten up against it (as I do in the picture). It should be nice and solid once you do that.

"Stout" Tap Handle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4700263.

A case or box to hold nozzle cleaning needles. This holds needles that are about 80mm in length (the case itself is about 84 mm long on the inside). Included are lids with 015, 025, 035, 040, and 050 on the top to identify the needle size (ie. 0.15mm, 0.25mm, etc.)

Nozzle Needle Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761038.

This is an alternate mount for the 'Ender 3 stock lcd case.' I like that case, and decided to use it to mount an old LCD to my new Ender 3 v2, to replace that DWIN LCD that sadly doesn't work well with Marlin/Octoprint (yet).

*But*, unfortunately, the rails on the Ender 3 v2 are not threaded where the LCD would normally mount on the v1 and Pro models. So I created this mount that mounts on the side of the rail instead.

Use M3 bolts (10mm or so) and these v-slot nut adapters: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3050607

Side Rail Mount for Ender 3 Stock LCD Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4622928.

This is a simple top to use with the Hydra Fan Duct with the bowden setup, and the wiring to the side, instead of out of the top. Nice and clean.

I love the Hyrda Fan Duct, and I liked the idea of routing the wiring out of the side, to the gantry mount instead of up and back like the standard bowden setup. It works well for use with a cable chain.

But, at that point the wiring duct on the 'Bowden Top' piece just sticks up into the air, empty. I was surprised there wasn't already a version with just a flat top for this reason, but since there was not, I made this one from the bowden top model included with the Hydra Duct.



Hydra Fan Duct - Bowden top without wire duct

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4566473.

This is a wrench for removing and tightening the posts on a pin-lock ('corny' or cornelius style) 5 gallon keg.

The posts normally require a 13/16" socket with either 2 (gas) or 3 (liquid) slots cut out for the pins. This fits both gas and liquid posts.

If you've purchased a used keg and need to remove the posts for the first time, you will need a metal socket on a ratchet with a long handle, since those kegs usually have blown o-rings and the posts have been way over tightened to compensate.

But otherwise, this will work well for removing and tightening posts on kegs with good o-rings. If you tighten your posts down hard enough to break this tool, you will destroy your o-rings. If your keg won't hold pressure without them being tightened that far, you already have!

Pin-Lock Keg Post Wrench

Activity related to collaborating with others on models

Likes, comments, and activity from your community

A roundup of models that we think you'll like

The-EG