Post Cap

POST CAP-ASSY_REF_ONLY.stl

Paint bottle cap toppers

paving stones topper supported.stl

Through-hole simple UFO pencil topper

Closed Lattice Christmas Topper

**NOT TO BE SOLD**
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

**WHAT IS IT?**
This is a topper for small to medium Christmas trees. It will work well on trees that are anywhere from about 4 feet (1.3 meters) up to 7 feet (2.3 meters) tall.

**CHALLENGING PRINT**
If you just got your first 3D printer and are looking for your first thing to print, this isn't it. Using the settings I recommend below, an experienced maker should be able to get a good print without many failed attempts. However, if you are not intimately familiar with the detailed settings in your slicer, add this to your favorites and come back when you have a little more experience. If it's frustrating, it's no fun.

If you're looking for an even bigger challenge, try my Open Lattice Christmas Tree Topper: https://thangs.com/designer/dazus/3d-model/Open%20Lattice%20Christmas%20Topper-472732?manualModelView=true.

**COMMON PROBLEMS PRINTING**
Assuming you use the print settings I recommended below, here are some common problems and possible fixes:
*Comes off bed:* Increase brim/raft size. Reduce print speed. Add more supports.
*Print looks rough:* Reduce print speed.

**PRINT TIME
With my settings, it will take 12-15 hours depending on the exact support and build plate adhesion settings you use.

**PRINT SETTINGS**
*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15mm
* Wall thickness: 0.4mm and choose the “alternate extra wall” option so it alternates between 0.4 and 0.8mm walls with each layer (if you're using Cura – other slicers may not have this option). The alternate extra wall seems to prevent gaps in the print while minimizing the overall weight of the ornament.
* Top/bottom thickness: 0.3mm

*Infill*
This doesn't need any infill. Seriously.

*Speed*
You'll want to use slow printer settings to that the print is accurate and to reduce the pull on the thin arms of the topper.

* Overall: 60mm/s
* Outer wall: 20mm/s
* Inner wall: 40mm/s
* Travel Speed: 65mm/sec

*Build Plate Adhesion*
You'll need to use either a brim or a raft. The base of the ornament is a thin, narrow circle. It just won't stay attached to the bed without a little help. I'd use an 8mm brim 8mm or a 15-20mm raft.

*Supports*
I used the custom support plug-in in Cura, choose the “freeshape” option whose icon looks like an extruded star, then chose “arch-buttress” from the drop-down. I attached overlapping supports to both the middle of the large and medium bulbs on all 4 sides. This results in a single support on each of 4 sides that makes contact with the ornament in 2 places. I used 20% gyro infill and a 1 layer wall. 

After the print was done, I found that the supports only just survived the printing process – and if they failed, the whole print would fail. I would now recommend using the “custom” option from the drop-down instead, making the walls 2 layers thick, scaling the width of each support to 150%, and reducing the infill to 8% gyro. Granted, I haven't tested this exact combo, but I know it'll be a lot stronger. The main difference in the “custom” vs. the “arch-buttress” is that the “custom” option provides good lateral support so sideways forces don't break the support in half. The new settings will add about 90 minutes to the print time. However, when this print fails, it generally does it after 75% or more has printed. Adding 90 minutes to the print may save you from printing for 9 hours only to have to start over.

I've attached screenshots from Cura so you can see both options.

If your slicer doesn't have an option for something similar to custom supports, you might try these settings, but I do not know if they will work:

* Overhang angle: 52 degrees
* Support wall line count: 2
* Support pattern: Gyro
* Support density: 8%
* Support placement: touching buildplate

If you do use them, add a support blocker to the center of the model to prevent supports from being added to the central shaft. There's no need for the supports there. It'll only add time to the print while giving you even more supports to remove when the print is finished.

Pizza Stool.STL

Here is a pizza stool actually modelled with a pizza on top.
ps. A pizza stool is basically an object kept on top of pizzas inside pizza boxes so that the lid does not touch the surface of the pizza and prevents cheese and toppings sticking onto the lid.

Topper

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Post Cap

Paint bottle cap toppers

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Closed Lattice Christmas Topper

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