Hero Me Documentation - Details.stl

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Cable guide

The hot end cables were dragging along the bed & pushing on the heated bed cables, causing the bed to move up and down during a print. (Ender 3 v2). 

So, I designed this little guide to hold the hot end cables up slightly so they don't interact with the bed. One side of the hook is chamfered so that the cables don't touch any sharp edges as they move. The guide slots into the frame of Ender/other 3d printers on the back left side. 

If you want to cable tie the cables into the guide, then just make sure it has enough slack for the hot end to reach the top right of the print area before tying it. 

It prints without supports, just make sure it's oriented with the long flat side down to the bed. Doesn't require supports.


Ender 3 series PTFE-to-Creality Direct Drive Extruder Arm Conversion

Since humidity is an issue in my area, I use Rubbermaid 21 cup dry boxes with a reverse Bowden setup on all my printers to minimize the filament's exposure to the air. My Ender 3 Pro is setup for direct-drive extrusion. The stock Creality extruders (plastic and aluminum) don't have a threaded inlet for a PTFE fitting. I'm not content with using a stop at the top 2020, which leaves a good amount of filament exposed, subject to getting brittle, causing breakage. I designed this glue-on conversion for the Creality extruder arms and will work with any PTFE fitting that use the M6 threaded ends.

My top-most criteria was to have it strengthen the plastic version of the Creality extrusion arms, hence the thickness or height of the conversion piece. I also wanted to make sure torque on the PTFE fitting, while the hotend was traversing the X-gantry, wouldn't cause the conversion to loosen up or break due to flexing.

I decided to tap the threads instead of designing them in. Ample reinforcement has been added around the hole so that tapping won't break into the infill. With this method the size and shape of the threaded hole is guaranteed regardless of the filament used and the accuracy of the printer.

If you don't have an M6x1.0 tap, and aren't interesting in acquiring one, you can make one by:

1 - filing two opposing grooves along half the length of an M6x1.0x10+mm screw with a jeweler's file

2 - running it in and out of the hole a little at a time, until the threads are cut all the way through the hole.

15% infill with a Grid pattern is ample as long as you use at least 4 walls (perimeters) I recommend 6. 5-minute epoxy and small hobby clamps will secure the conversion piece to the topside of the extruder arm, which should be done with the arm removed from the extruder. Make sure no epoxy gets into the PTFE threaded area or in the filament hole of the arm. Leave overnight to fully cure.

The two extruders shown are the plastic model that comes on the Creality Ender 3 series and the red anodized aluminum one (on my Ender 3 Pro) that comes with the Creality direct drive kit.


Ender 3v2 x-Axis Tradfri Remote Mount.stl

Prints without supports. There's a pocket inside of the model to insert a 10x2mm magnet, remote could be glues in place as well.

The remote mount slides over the x-axis belt tensioner from the left side and is only friction-fitted.

To find the toggle threshold just home your printer and move the hotend to the right bit by bit until the remote gets pressed. I advise moving the x-axis back a few milimeters as the mount could be deformed with constant force after the printer has been turned off.

Ender3v2

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Hero Me Documentation - Details.stl

Caution Hot !!! Symbol

Scrub Daddy Holder - Big Daddy Base

Cable guide

Ender 3 series PTFE-to-Creality Direct Drive Extruder Arm Conversion

Ender 3v2 x-Axis Tradfri Remote Mount.stl