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Ender 3 (Pro) Direct Drive Dual Gear Extruder Mount

Direct Drive and Dual Gear Extruder mount for Ender 3 (Pro).

I bought a [Dual Gear Extruder](https://www.amazon.com/Bigtreetech-Extruder-extruder-Ender3pro-Filament/dp/B08D9CNHVN?&_encoding=UTF8&tag=r2j3d-20) and a [Direct Drive Extruder conversion](https://www.amazon.com/Extruder-Conversion-Printer-Creality-Aluminum/dp/B08YN6B5TN/?&_encoding=UTF8&tag=r2j3d-20) kit for my Ender 3 Pro knowing they wouldn't work together out of the box.

So I designed a mount to make them work together. The only thing you need to mount everything with this mount is a couple of [M3 bolts and nuts](https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Assortment-Precise-Beautiful-Printed/dp/B0714FLXND?&_encoding=UTF8&tag=r2j3d-20);

- 2x M3x20 to fix the mount to the Dual Gear Extruder
- 2x M3x8 to fix it all to the Direct Drive
- Extruder conversion
- 2x M3 nut to work with the two M3x8
- 1x M3x12 to fix the spring mount instead of the original M4
- M3 washers (optional)

Make sure you fix the spring holder and then the mount to the extruder first with the M3x20 bolts.

Unfortunately It isn't possible to change tension on the spring with this setup so make sure you test the Extruder tension before without tensioning the spring on the extruder arm. With the right spring you don't need to adjust the tension. If needed you can fill in the space needed with a few washers when mounting.

For strength I used 4 outer wall lines with my 0.4mm nozzle and fill-density of only 15%

Safety clip (Clip de racor)

It is a safety clip for the pneumatic fitting or for a 4mm outer diameter quick connector for 3D printer.

The G-code is created with PrusaSlicer for Prusa mini with an ultra definition of 0.05 mm; but it can also be printed for Creatity and other printers that use Marlin, (if you have a glass bed with clamps, make sure before putting it on, to remove the front clamp on the left, to prevent the nozzle from colliding with it, when doing the first line of filament checking), since PrusaSlicer does it on the front of the hot bed, not like Cura, which does it on the left.

 

Il s'agit d'un clip de sécurité pour le raccord pneumatique ou pour un connecteur rapide de 4 mm de diamètre extérieur pour imprimante 3D. 

Le code G est créé avec PrusaSlicer pour Prusa mini avec une ultra définition de 0,05 mm ; mais il peut également imprimer pour Creatity et d'autres imprimantes qui utilisent Marlin, (si vous avez un lit en verre avec des pinces, assurez-vous avant de le mettre en place, que vous retirez la pince avant gauche, pour éviter que la buse n'entre en collision avec (lors de la vérification de la première rangée de filaments), puisque PrusaSlicer le fait sur le devant du lit chaud, pas comme Cura, qui le fait sur la gauche.

 

Se trata de un clip de seguridad para el racor neumático o para un conector rápido de 4 mm de diámetro exterior para impresora 3D. 

El código G está creado con PrusaSlicer para Prusa mini con una ultra definición de 0,05 mm; pero también se puede imprimir para Creatity y otras impresoras que usan Marlin, (si tienes una cama de cristal con abrazaderas, asegúrate antes de ponerla, de quitar la abrazadera frontal de la izquierda, para evitar que la boquilla choque con ella, al hacer la primera línea de comprobación de filamento), ya que PrusaSlicer lo hace en la parte frontal de la cama caliente, no como Cura, que lo hace en la izquierda.

Ender 3 series PTFE-to-Creality Direct Drive Extruder Arm Conversion

Since humidity is an issue in my area, I use Rubbermaid 21 cup dry boxes with a reverse Bowden setup on all my printers to minimize the filament's exposure to the air. My Ender 3 Pro is setup for direct-drive extrusion. The stock Creality extruders (plastic and aluminum) don't have a threaded inlet for a PTFE fitting. I'm not content with using a stop at the top 2020, which leaves a good amount of filament exposed, subject to getting brittle, causing breakage. I designed this glue-on conversion for the Creality extruder arms and will work with any PTFE fitting that use the M6 threaded ends.

My top-most criteria was to have it strengthen the plastic version of the Creality extrusion arms, hence the thickness or height of the conversion piece. I also wanted to make sure torque on the PTFE fitting, while the hotend was traversing the X-gantry, wouldn't cause the conversion to loosen up or break due to flexing.

I decided to tap the threads instead of designing them in. Ample reinforcement has been added around the hole so that tapping won't break into the infill. With this method the size and shape of the threaded hole is guaranteed regardless of the filament used and the accuracy of the printer.

If you don't have an M6x1.0 tap, and aren't interesting in acquiring one, you can make one by:

1 - filing two opposing grooves along half the length of an M6x1.0x10+mm screw with a jeweler's file

2 - running it in and out of the hole a little at a time, until the threads are cut all the way through the hole.

15% infill with a Grid pattern is ample as long as you use at least 4 walls (perimeters) I recommend 6. 5-minute epoxy and small hobby clamps will secure the conversion piece to the topside of the extruder arm, which should be done with the arm removed from the extruder. Make sure no epoxy gets into the PTFE threaded area or in the filament hole of the arm. Leave overnight to fully cure.

The two extruders shown are the plastic model that comes on the Creality Ender 3 series and the red anodized aluminum one (on my Ender 3 Pro) that comes with the Creality direct drive kit.


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Hero Me Documentation - Details.stl

Ender 3 (Pro) Direct Drive Dual Gear Extruder Mount

Safety clip (Clip de racor)

Ender 3 series PTFE-to-Creality Direct Drive Extruder Arm Conversion