George the Gourd - 2 Models - Possessed vegetable - medium creature - Pre Supported - 32mm scale 

George the Gourd - Toung.stl

Rhino Beetle Steel defender - Artificer Construct - PRESUPPORTED - 32mm Scale 

Rhino Defender.stl

Giant Mantis Shrimp - Large sea Creature - PRESUPPORTED - 32mm Scale 

Mantis shrimp - Full.stl

Minimalist V-Slot Handle - No tools, No parts - Ender 3, Pro, Cr-10, Anycubic, Anet, Geeetech, etc.

**Goal**
* A clean, minimalist handle for my Ender 3 Pro
* No additional screws or t-nuts or tools
* Doesn't add to the profile of the printer
* Doesn't collide with any extruders or errant tubes and cables

**Printing**
__Wrench Required__
1. Print on its side and with supports as shown (tree) to build it sturdy. It's so thin that infill amount is not particularly relevant.
2. Remove any screws necessary.
3. Slot into the underside of your top v-slot bar(s).

__Alternative: No Tools__
1. I discovered while doing a test print (on its side as shown) that printing without supports creates a nice, springy side that you can press fit into place.

**Notes**
* When printed without supports can be press fit directly into the v-slot without removing any screws (as the lower side of the v-slot inserts will not be a stable print, press firmly and trim if necessary to get the fit you need)
* I personally like the straight edge as it's nice and clean against the profile of the rod, if there is interest for a smoother edge version, lemme know!

**Credit**
* V-slot inserts graciously taken from 3D Printer Handle [thing:4702410](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4702410)
* Inspired by the Ender 3 Carry Handle [thing:4088938](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4088938)

Hero Me Documentation - Details.stl

Documentation Membership Details.stl

Filament Roll Extruder Knob - Ender 3

Filament_Roll_Mid_Section.stl

CR-10 and CR-10S Screen Control Box with Optional Mermaid Decal

Base with Mermaid Decal.step

Timelapse Rig (Ender 3 and similar printers)

flexible-finger.stl

CR-10 Standalone/All-in-one

MAinboard Case.obj

HMG7 Longer LK5 Pro Gantry Adapter.stl

This STL is a component of the Hero Me Gen7 Printhead assembly for 3D printers.

**Hero Me Gen7 is a modular printhead platform for 3D printers with excellent part cooling and the most compatibility across printers, hotends, extruders, ABLs, and other components.**

 The Hero Me Gen7 is all about choice and personal preference. If you have been upgrading your 3D printer, you've made choices about what is important to you, Your choices are likely going to be different from everyone else. When choosing a hotend, extruder, and ABL combo (not to mention fans and accelerometers), where are you going to find a printhead platform that will accommodate all your selected components (which could be a rare combo), for your specific 3D printer AND provides part cooling that gives you great print results. **This is what the Hero Me Gen7 is all about!**

Think of the Hero Me platform as lego blocks for printheads, there are mounting parts for each component (hotend, extruder, fans, ABLs, etc.) that stack and mount to a core Base. Component specific mounting parts can be interchanged for another of the same type. So, should you change your component selection(s) in the future, you do not have to start over, you simple replace the single STL mount that is matched to the new component. There is no need to yet again go looking for a new set of mounting hardware that was not likely to have been designed to work with each other in the first place.

So to give you choice and fulfill your personal preferences in 3D printing, the Hero Me Gen7.3.2 now supports over 100 3D Printer models (plus clones), 46 Hotends, 34 Extruders (over 45 mount options), 17 ABL Sensors (34 mount options), 35 Part Cooling Duct options, 12 Cable Management options, 11 ADXL345 mounts, and 4 LED bar mounts (among many other options). Gen7.3.2 supports most of the popular 3D printers and components available. 

If you know your 3D printer model, hotend, fans, and optionally an extruder, ABL sensor, ADXL345 accelerometer (for Klipper), and any other options for your printhead assembly, you can scan through the Hero Me Gen7 Release 3.2 folder, or use the Thangs Advanced Search.  Be sure to set the creator filter to: ‘MediaMan3D’ then search for ‘HMG7’ which should bring up all the STLs. You can refine your search from there by component, brand, etc.

If you find that you have a 3D printer model or component that is not yet supported, send me information and preferably a STEP or STL (or link) if you know of one for the X carriage of that printer or the component and I will create a mount for it. Send to: MediaMan3D@gmail.com

If you want Hero Me documentation… The Hero Me Gen7.3.2 folder of STLs on Thangs is organized into sub-folders by component category, with sub—sub-folders for type and brand with well defined filenames to make it easy to find what you need. If you want documentation to help you select and assemble the Hero Me Gen7 for your specific 3D printer, you can get a membership plan here on Thangs.  You will get a detailed 56 page parts selection and illustrated assembly guide along with assembly videos, private Discord server access (with over 2,000 Hero Me users), technical support, and much more, You also get exclusive access to new STL releases 30 days before being posted to Thangs, and other STL libraries. Check out the membership plans here:  [https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d](https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d)

MS DD Linear rail mount for Creality / Ender printers

Made this a full size version from my original that is also here on Thangs.
Minimal supports needed. I block the nut recessed areas, they don't need support but the slicer will want to put them there.
I included some pics of the blockers and the supports form Cura.
Printed with .2mm layers.
Recommend 1.2 mm walls and top, I went with 3mm on the bottom, this gave it a nice rigidity for the belt grooves. 
Pop in the M3 nuts after printing and secure them in place with a screw before installing on the printer, this will seat them well and let you know if you have an issue.
All the holes are in the same locations as the MS metal version, so attachments like CR or BL touch can be added without any issues, as well as fan shrouds.
I flipped the hook on the right for the wiring (ender 5 MS plate has this), it made more sense to me the way I have it.
You still need the Micro Swiss extruder hardware for this to work, if switching from rollers to linear rails and you already have a MS DD extruder, then this is perfect for you.
Pica aren't the best but you get the idea.


PTFE Tube Pneumatic Fitting

.STEP model of the pneumatic fitting commonly on Creality hotends with bowden tubes.

PTFE Tube Pneumatic Fitting.step

LED Light Bar Mount For Round Rods

I decided I was tired of my CR-10 enclosure being dark all the time, so I rummaged up a 24V LED light bar and designed this mount for it.  

I have two different enclosures, with two different frame diameters, 16mm and 14.75mm.  I have included both versions in STL format and the STEP file for those wishing to modify the design for their own use.

I would suggest two of these mounts for each light bar.  The mounts incorporate a steel clip and fastener that is included with the light bar kit, and each mount uses one additional M3x25 SHCS and M3 nylon-insert locknut.

For a standard installation of one lightbar you would require the following:

Bill of Materials
- 12-24V LED Light Bar and Mounting Hardware (the mount was designed to fit one of the lights in this four pack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T8VG75B or equivalent), Quantity 1
- M3x25 SHCS (McMaster 91292A020 (sold qty 100) or equivalent), Quantity 2
- M3 Nylon-Insert Locknut (McMaster 93625A100 (sold qty 100) or equivalent), Quantity 2
- LED Strip Mount, printed, Quantity 2

Refer to the attached images to determine the assembly methods.

I chose to design this part for resin printing, using a toughened resin.  As I printed these on an mSLA printer, I cannot speak to the veracity of this part for FDM printing.  

If one chose to use an FDM I would suggest orienting the rod axis parallel with the printer Z axis, and print with supports.

Low Friction Spool Holder Adapter

Low Friction Spool Holder Adapter

Are you like me and upgraded your bowden tube, but held on to the old one?

Well you are in luck!  Use it as part of this adapter to reduce friction between your spool and the spool holder.

Designed primarily for the Ender 3, but any similar spool holder should work.

Yes this is a mashup, however it does have significant changes and qualifies as unique work.  See license.txt for more details.

1. Cut two bowden tubes to fit in side of each track.
2. Remove the tube from your spool holder and snap on the adapter.
3. Put the tube back on the spool holder.
4. Enjoy

- Easy snap fit!
- Bowden tubes are low friction by design.
- The curved shape further reduces friction by limiting contact with the spool to two points.
- The curved shape uses gravity to keep the spool centered on the spool holder.

Supports are required. I would suggest using support blocker on the bowden tube holes, they seem to print fine.  

* I used tree supports and a brim.
* I printed at 5° hotter than normal to help with layer adhesion.
* I printed at 0.12 for a smoother look. However during testing I printed at 0.2 and it worked without issue.


CR10 S5-First Layer Calibration

A simple first layer calibration test for the CR-10 S5 (or similar 500x500 mm bed size).

I made this after finding that the generated skirt (on similar layer tests) on my slicer was not what I needed. This removes that variable.

Actual Dimensions are 440.2 x 440.2 x .2 mm (LxWxH)

The pattern is .2mm thick. Skirt not necessary, or intended, for printing.

CR-10

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Minimalist V-Slot Handle - No tools, No parts - Ender 3, Pro, Cr-10, Anycubic, Anet, Geeetech, etc.

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CR-10 Standalone/All-in-one

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MS DD Linear rail mount for Creality / Ender printers

PTFE Tube Pneumatic Fitting

LED Light Bar Mount For Round Rods

Low Friction Spool Holder Adapter

CR10 S5-First Layer Calibration

RBJ magnetic cooling system