**DANGER NOODLES!**

While running the AnyCubic Kobra Max I found that the part cooling ducts left something to be desired.  Yay the machine has dual 4010 fans, but they exit the shroud too far from the printer nozzle and are not well guided.  In comes my add-on Fan Ducts that guide the air much closer to the nozzle area AND block off areas where the part cooling blowers could suck in hot air! Fits both the AnyCubic Kobra Max and the Vyper line of printers.

**Installation:**_(See photos to help.)_ Remove the stock Fan Shroud from the print head.  Locate the screws that hold on the blower fan retainer pieces & remove (save screws).  Slip new Part Cooling Ducts into the opening of the old ducting (has a clip to "latch on"). Firmly press the Ducts into the shroud along side the Blower Fans until the ducts are flush against the fans. Reinstall original screw through the ducts.  Reinstall the Shroud onto the print head, being careful to not pinch the wiring as there is now less room.  

**AFTER ASSEMBLY:** Be sure to run an "Auto Level" run to ensure that the wiring and new parts are not interfering with the strain sensor and Bed Leveling functions properly.  If you find ANY issue, adjust the wiring inside of the shroud and repeat the process.

The 40mm "Guide" is meant to funnel the Heatsink air more directly to the Heatsink and slightly shield the Blower fans from the heatsink.  I don't know how effective it is, but I included it as I'm using it currently. 

---------------------------------------------------------------

- **Necessary Hardware (Affiliate Links):**
  - AnyCubic Kobra Max: https://tinyurl.com/KobraMax
  - AnyCubic Vyper: https://tinyurl.com/AnyCubicVyper

---------------------------------------------------------------

- **PRINT PARAMETERS:**
  - Print SLOWLY, Small areas require cooling time.
  - Recommend 4 Perimeters 
  - 10%+ Infill (I use Rectilinear) 
  - NO Supports Required
  - PLA works fine, but PETG or ASA would be better if printing higher temp materials.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.HotRodHippie.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

**All of my Designs are covered by a Creative Commons Non-Commercial License.**  Sale of prints using my designs are the sole right of myself, the designer, and those I license to do so. Please understand every design is hours of work and multiple prototype prints to ensure quality.  Unauthorized sales will result in new designs not being made public.

PLEASE Credit any and all Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

Anycubic Vyper & Kobra Max Part Cooling Duct UPGRADE! - Improved print quality

AnyCubic_Kobra_Vyper_Cooling_Ducts_V1.step

3D Printed Coaster in the shape of a wooden pallet! Make a few and see if your local bar or cafe would use them.

I originally designed the pallet to print in multiple pieces to reduce supports, but it's actually easier to print without supports and bridge the overhangs.

Best results for bridging with Wood PLA was 80mm/s at 200C. Higher temps like 220C sagged too much. Lower temps worked better!

Pallet Coaster

Pallet Coaster.STEP

Gridfinity block that will hold 4 18650s. Stackable, 1x1 grid space. Batteries hold top up. This makes it into a 1x1x10 gridfinity block. 
#gridfinity

Gridfinity 1x1 18650 holder

Gridfinity block that will hold 4 18650s. Non-stackable, 1x1 grid space.

18650 top.3mf

**Don't let your Neptune 3 cables be a DRAG! Neptune 4 either!**

The new Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus / Max (And Neptune 4 Max & Plus) lines are an excellent lineup of 3D printers, but they have one major flaw. The cable going to the toolhead drags on  your print bed while printing and can snag on printed parts causing print failure. Elegoo includes a single P-Clamp to mount this harness and it simply is not enough to do the job adequately. 

This design angles the cable upward, away from the print area. It also more securely mounts and strain relieves the harness for better long term reliability. 

Requires longer screws for mounting and a pair of Zip Ties.You can reuse the original harness M4 screw for the 3rd mounting hole of this bracket.

**Parts Needed (Affiliate Links):**
- 1x - M4x10mm Screw: https://amzn.to/40Csxzc
- 1x - M3x20mm Screw: https://amzn.to/3DRcZxA
- 3x - Zip Ties: https://amzn.to/3jKNV4Q
- Elegoo Neptune 4 Max: https://tinyurl.com/Neptune4Max
- Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus: https://tinyurl.com/Neptune4Plus
- Elegoo Neptune 3 Max: https://tinyurl.com/Neptune3Max
- Polymaker Filament: https://tinyurl.com/Polymakerr

---------------------------------------------------------------
 **Files Included:**
- Neptune 3/4 Cable Mount - STEP File
- Neptune 3/4 Cable Mount - STL
---------------------------------------------------------------
**Recommended Print Settings:**
- 3 Perimeters
- 10% Infill
- No Supports Required
- PLA filament is fine for this application.

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.MandicReally.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------



Neptune 3 / Neptune 4 Max & Plus - Gantry Cable Mount - NO MORE DRAGGING!!

Strain Relief Thin v1.step

**DIY Doubled Up!**

Remixed version of ["RepRack"](https://www.printables.com/model/129024-reprack-open-source-spool-holder-and-storage-syste) filament storage system that stacks 2 rows of Filament spools atop of each other.  Designed to sit on a shelf or shelving unit.  Uses 1/2" EMT conduit as the "Rack rails" of the system.  Requires screws to install the clamps that retain the rack rails.

**Requires additional hardware:** 
- Thread Cutting Screws
- M4 Hardware
- M3 Hardware
- M3 Heat Press Inserts
- 1/2" EMT Conduit

Brackets are sizable and won't fit on an Ender 3 (or similar 235mm) bed.  Measures 248mm x 208mm.  Sized specifically to fit within a Prusa Mk3 / Mk4 build volume (also fits the Bambu X1 & P1P bed).

---------------------------------------------------------------
**Parts Needed (Affiliate Links):**
- 1/2" Conduit: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-2-in-Actual-50-In-Metallic-Emt-10-ft-Conduit/3129551
- M3 Heat Inserts: https://amzn.to/3LEMezN
- Polymaker Filament: https://tinyurl.com/Polymakerr
---------------------------------------------------------------
 **Files Included:**
- Double RepRack STEP File
- Left Double Rack STL
- Right Double Rack STL
- Mid Double Rack STL
- M4 Clamp STL
- Thread Cutting Screw Clamp STL
- M3 Insert Clamp STL
- Double Rack DXF
---------------------------------------------------------------
**Recommended Print Settings:**
- 3+ Perimeters
- 20% Infill
- No Supports Required
- PLA filament is generally fine for this application. If near hot components ASA or ABS would be preferred.
- Bigger nozzle sizes & layer heights recommended (.6/.8) but not required.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.MandicReally.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

**NOTE:** Larger diameter spools may not fit. Only ones I know for certain are Printed Solid, their cardboard spools don't fit on the lower rack, but do on the upper.  Polymaker & even ProtoPasta spools do fit fine.

Double Rack - DIY Filament Storage - RepRack Remix!

Double_Shelf_RepRack_V3.step

**Do it for the 'Gram!**

Many 3D printers use "Calibration Cubes" as a way to test their machine to see if it is operating properly.  This is my version of a Calibration Cube that features various Social Media logos for... reasons.  It just seemed like a silly thing to make and that people could print for Social Media posts, so here it is! Features TikTok, YouTube, Twitch, Instagram, Patreon, and my own RLY on the cube.

Please consider checking out my Social Media Channels: https://www.hotrodhippie.com/links

The Cube is designed to measure 20mm cubed, so when you are completed printing it you can check the dimensions with vernier calipers and confirm if they are correct.  Each of the Logos should be 1.8mm deep at their deepest point (Except Patreon on top which is 10mm.). RLY on the bottom should be .6mm deep. This is handy to check for ghosting as well (where you see the edge continuing into the surface next to a detail). 

---------------------------------------------------------------

- ** PRINT PARAMETERS:**
  - .1 or .2mm Layer Height Recommended
  - .4mm Nozzle Recommended
  - 3 Perimeters / Walls Recommended
  - 10%+ Infill (I use Rectilinear) 
  - NO Supports Required

---------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.HotRodHippie.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

**All of my Designs are covered by a Creative Commons Non-Commercial License.**  Sale of prints using my designs are the sole right of myself, the designer, and those I license to do so. Please understand every design is hours of work and multiple prototype prints to ensure quality.  Unauthorized sales will result in new designs not being made public.

PLEASE Credit any and all Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

Social Media Calibration Cube - Flex your precision!

Calibration_Cube_Social_Medias_V1.step

**Voron CAN-do it!**

Switching your Voron 2.4 or Trident to CAN is an excellent way to lose the bulk and drag of cable chains. However it means you need to relocate your Y Endstop microswitch off of the X gantry. This design replaces the wire organizer on the right rear motor gantry. This mount holds a standard microswitch & PG7 wire gland for strain relief on you umbilical / can cable. 

Two versions are included a "Multi" version that has the Voron logo as separate bodies for multi-color printing. The other version has the Voron logo inset for single color prints.

Also includes a "Bumper" to actuate the Y Endstop in its new location. The bumper replaces the Y axis cable chain mount. 

---------------------------------------------------------------
**Parts Needed (Affiliate Links):**
- DF2-5L Microswitch (Voron BOM part): http://shrsl.com/422xl
- M3x8 Screws: https://amzn.to/3AYdAMc
- PG7 Cable Gland: https://amzn.to/43Kwfaj
- Polymaker Filament: https://tinyurl.com/Polymakerr
---------------------------------------------------------------
 **Files Included:**
- Y Endstop Relocation PG7 Mount STEP File
- Y End Stop Bumper STL
- Y Endstop Relocator STL
- Multi-Color Y Endstop Relocator STL

---------------------------------------------------------------
**Recommended Print Settings:**
- 4 Perimeters
- 20% Infill
- No Supports Required
- ABS or ASA Filament recommeneded.
- "Multi" STLs require using "Split -> To Objects" in your slicer.  Then you can color the individual bodies.  
---------------------------------------------------------------
Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.MandicReally.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

Design covered by GPL3 Open Source license. Any Remixes or Derivatives are required to adhere to license terms & use the same license.

PLEASE Attrubute any Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

Voron Y Endstop Relocation w/ PG7 Cable Gland Mount

PG7_Y_Endstop_Relocation_Voron_V1.step

Fidget Can cup, perfect for killing some time while drinking :P

Designed for standard 12oz(355ml) cans with 66mm diameter.

----------------------------------------------------------

- Print in 3 separate part so you can have the fidget part in a different color. 

- I also included 2 different top part so you can switch between Handle and No Handle version.

- NO Support required
----------------------------------------------------------

You don't have a printer...no problem, you can buy one here: www.Multi3D.ca

----------------------------------------------------------

Fidget Can Cup © 2022 by Alex Grenier - Multi3D is licensed under Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/

Fidget Can Cup

Fidget Can Cup.STEP

**Hexagons for your CAN... agon.**

The BigTreeTech SB2240 and SB2209 (EBB CAN Boards) allow for clean wiring & fine control with a StealthBurner toolhead on various Voron 3D printers. However these boards can run warm, so I designed a PCB Cable Door Cover that has Hex holes in it to allow some ventilation for cooling. Also it just looks cooler, cause hexagons are bestagon. Excellent to spruce up the StealthBurner toolhead on your Voron 2.4, Trident, or SwitchWire build.

REQUIRES use of a modified ClockWork 2 main body (included with the BigTreeTech STLs for the EBB SB2240 / 2209 found here: [EBB Master](https://github.com/bigtreetech/EBB/tree/master/EBB%20SB2240_2209%20CAN/Custom%20Printed%20Parts)

---------------------------------------------------------------
**Parts Used (Affiliate Links):**
- BigTreeTech SB2240 / SB2209: https://shrsl.com/4683c
- Polymaker Filament: https://tinyurl.com/Polymakerr
---------------------------------------------------------------
 **Files Included:**
- BTT SB2240 Hex Cable Door STEP File
- BTT SB2240 Hex Cable Door STL
- BTT SB2240 Clockwork 2 Main Body STL
---------------------------------------------------------------
**Recommended Print Settings:**
- 4 Perimeters
- 40% Infill
- No Supports Required
- ABS or ASA Filament.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.MandicReally.com/links
---------------------------------------------------------------

Design covered by GPL3 Open Source License.

Hex Cable Door for BigTreeTech SB2240 / 2209 StealthBurner PCB

BTT_SB2240_Hex_Cable_Door_V2.step

Wicked Star Wars Patreon is proud to present the Combat Droid model.

Combat Droid 1/6 Scale STL tested and ready for 3D printing.

Supported and Non-supported versions for 3D printing.

WICKED STAR WARS COMBAT DROID B1: TESTED AND READY FOR 3D PRINTING

Base_Full.stl

**Protect your fingers!**

A simple "Honey Comb" pattern fan grill for a 120mm Fan.  Has a grid of hexagon shapes that protect your 120mm fan from objects (fingers) intruding into them, and look good at the same time! Who doesn't love a HoneyComb look?

---------------------------------------------------------------

- **Necessary Hardware (Affiliate Links):**
  - 1x 120mm Fan: https://amzn.to/2XAR7EF 
 
---------------------------------------------------------------

- ** PRINT PARAMETERS:**
  - Recommend 3 Perimeters and 10% Infill. 
  - NO Supports Required.

---------------------------------------------------------------

- **POST PROCESSING:**
  - Take care when removing part from print surface as the hex mesh can be delicate and the design has a LOT of surface area on the build plate.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.HotRodHippie.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

**All of my Designs are covered by a Creative Commons Non-Commercial License.**  Sale of prints using my designs are the sole right of myself, the designer, and those I license to do so. Please understand every design is hours of work and multiple prototype prints to ensure quality.  Unauthorized sales will result in new designs not being made public.

PLEASE Credit any and all Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

Honey Comb 120mm Fan Grill

HoneyComb_120mm_v1.step

**Cut + Fold = Strength**

Recently I've been building a Voron V0.1 and decided to go with a "Kirigami Bed" on the build. To clean up the end and add some more "accent" pieces to the build I designed this new Bed Front piece.  It is purely decorative but cleans up the end of the Kirigami Bed well for a Voron V0 or V0.1 build

Inspired by the mod from [Demosth](https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/395-kirigami-bed-front/).

Note: Uses M3 threaded inserts for install.

---------------------------------------------------------------

- **Necessary Hardware (Affiliate Links):**
   - 1x M3x6mm Screw (to Mount the Buck Converter): https://amzn.to/3JPkTIz
  - 5x M3 Heat Inserts (if using Heat Insert vers.): https://amzn.to/3t6B6SN

---------------------------------------------------------------

- ** PRINT PARAMETERS:**
  - Recommend 2 Perimeters and 10% Infill (no need to add any weight). 

---------------------------------------------------------------

- **POST PROCESSING:**
  - Install 2x M3 Heat Inserts from the "bottom" and install the cover blow the bottom of the Kirigami Bracket.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.HotRodHippie.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

Design covered by GPL3 Open Source license. Any Remixes or Derivatives are required to adhere to license terms & use the same license.

PLEASE Attrubute any Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

PLEASE Credit any and all Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

Kirigami Bed Front - Voron V0 & V0.1 Mod

Kirigami_Bed_Front_V1.step

**Practical Printing - REPRAP Edition!**

This new Power Supply Cover allows for installing a 120mm Cooling fan on a Meanwell LRS350 power supply unit.  This is a revision of my cover for the base model Ender 3 power supply: 120mm Fan Mod

**CAUTION:** Modifying a Power Supply can be dangerous due to stored voltage in capacitors / transformers.  Take caution when installing!

_Designed to fit the Meanwell, model: LRS350-24 or LRS350-12 Power Supply that came on Ender 3 Pro and V2 models._

Soldering Required: To connect the fan to the JST connector of the stock PSU fan.

Fan is intended to pull air OUT of the PSU, drawing air in from the PSU vents and the cover venting.

Note: No Buck Converter required as the Meanwell PSU has a 12v fan stock. Just splice your new fan to the old fan's wiring and connector.

---------------------------------------------------------------

 **Necessary Hardware (Affiliate Links):**
  - Meanwell LRS350: https://amzn.to/35vr2KV
  - 1x 120mm Fan: https://amzn.to/2XAR7EF 
   - 4x M3x30mm screws: https://amzn.to/3JPkTIz
   - 5x M3 Heat Inserts (if using Heat Insert vers.): https://amzn.to/3t6B6SN

---------------------------------------------------------------

Spacer Plate design included is REQUIRED to make this design work. It moves the PSU away from the Z-Axis upright to clear the rollers on the X-Axis Carriage.

**PRINT PARAMETERS:**
  - Recommend minumum of 4 Perimeters and 10% Infill. 
  - PETG filament recommended, PLA has worked for me in the past though.

---------------------------------------------------------------

- **POST PROCESSING:**
  - Take care when removing part from print surface as the hex mesh can be delicate and the design has a LOT of surface area on the build plate.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.HotRodHippie.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

**All of my Designs are covered by a Creative Commons Non-Commercial License.**  Sale of prints using my designs are the sole right of myself, the designer, and those I license to do so. Please understand every design is hours of work and multiple prototype prints to ensure quality.  Unauthorized sales will result in new designs not being made public.

PLEASE Credit any and all Remixes of my designs: MandicReally



Meanwell LRS350 120mm Fan Cover - Quiet Mod!

Meanwell 350w 120mm Fan Cover v2.step

120mm_PSU_Spacer_v2.stl

This was a cool project, which I explained here in my video: 
😎👉 https://youtu.be/-gGEP4eyf9w

..more details will follow here soon.

This design is protected by License
License Type = CC BY-NC-SA
(CC Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike)

Marsgizmo - Elgato Stream Deck and Wave XLR - under Desk Holder

**Ready! Set! GO!!!** 

Testing Flow Rate for your 3D Printer hotend / nozzle isn't as straight forward as it should be. This is a Test file for exactly that purpose.  This "Race Track" is designed to maximize speed and thus flow rate of your 3D printer hot end.  I designed it specifically for a Voron V0.1 but it could be used on other machines.  See this guide on how to configure it: https://youtu.be/3iK2PWv8TNI?t=222

**WARNING:** The Included G-Code is meant for a Voron V0.1 running Klipper firmware ONLY! Use at your own risk, you should understand the limitations of your machine before running this or any G-code your download online!! It is intended to print with ABS or ASA (file is sliced at 250C). I recommend [Polymaker ASA](https://tinyurl.com/PolymakerASA) as that is what I used (affiliate link).

See the full video this comes from here: https://youtu.be/3iK2PWv8TNI
---------------------------------------------------

**INCLUDED FILES:**
- Race Track Flow Rate Test STL
- STEP File to scale to your needs.
- Voron V0.1 ONLY - G-code

------------------------------------------------------
**PRINT PARAMETERS:**
- No support required
- MUST Use ABS or ASA (G-code is 250C)
- Spiral Vase Mode ONLY
- 0% Infill
- .3mm Layer Height (for .4mm Nozzle)
- .45mm Extrusion Width
- Temps & Fan depend on material (ABS or ASA recommended)

I printed mine with [Polymaker ASA](https://tinyurl.com/PolymakerASA) _(Affiliate Link)_
-------------------------------------------------------
Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

Link Tree: http://www.MandicReally.com/links
-------------------------------------------------------

All of my Designs are covered by a Creative Commons Non-Commercial Share-Alike License .  Sale of prints using my designs are the sole right of myself, the designer, and those I license to do so. Please understand every design is hours of work and multiple prototype prints to ensure quality.  Unauthorized sales will result in new designs not being made public.

PLEASE Credit any and all Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

Voron V0.1 Flow Rate Test Race Track - 100mm Flowrate Test

Voron_V0_FlowRate_Test_V3.step

**Style & Substance for your Voron!**

Add a little flare to your Voron Trident or 2.4 with this touchscreen mount!  Klipperscreen is an excellent touchscreen interface for Klipper based printers. This mount allows you to use a BigTreeTech Pi TFT43 on your Voron. 

This is a Remix of [cneshi's design](https://github.com/MotorDynamicsLab/LDOVoronTrident/tree/master/STLs/BTT%20Pi%20TFT4.3%20Mount). Some geometry changes were made to clean up minor errors and fitment.  The largest changes are cosmetic.  I've created 5 faceplate variations. 2 are Multi-Color versions with Hex designs & the Voron logo (1 with the LDO logo). 

**Requires additional hardware:** 
- 5x - M3x8
- 3x - M3 Roll-In Nuts (or T-Nuts)
- 2x - M3 heat press inserts

---------------------------------------------------------------
**Parts Needed (Affiliate Links):**
- BTT PiTFT43: http://shrsl.com/422xl
- M3x8 Screws: https://amzn.to/3AYdAMc
- M3 Heat Inserts: https://amzn.to/3LEMezN
- Polymaker Filament: https://tinyurl.com/Polymakerr
---------------------------------------------------------------
 **Files Included:**
- BTT Pi TFT43 Mount & Faceplate STEP File
- BTT PiTFT43 Mount STL
- Blank Faceplate STL
- Voron Logo Faceplate STL
- Voron / LDO Logo Faceplate STL
- Multi-Color Hex / Voron / LDO STL
- Multi-Color Hex / Voron STL
---------------------------------------------------------------
**Recommended Print Settings:**
- 3 Perimeters
- 20% Infill
- No Supports Required
- PLA filament is generally fine for this application. If near hot components ASA or ABS would be preferred.
- "Multi" STLs require using "Split -> To Objects" in your slicer.  Then you can color the individual bodies.  
---------------------------------------------------------------
Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.MandicReally.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

Design covered by GPL3 Open Source license. Any Remixes or Derivatives are required to adhere to license terms & use the same license.

PLEASE Attrubute any Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

Voron BigTreeTech 4.3" PI TFT Mount - Hex & LDO designs!

BTT_4.3_Voron_Mount_MRLY_Remix_V3.step

I was inspired by the layer lines of 3D prints, to print prints that look like bigger prints! 

_P r i n t c e p t i o n !_

This is the Square Container from my Printception Collection. The model is designed to be entirely printable without support material, but the top of the container may test your printer's overhang capabilities! There is also an alternative version included with only the spiraling section, for a more minimal container.

Print at 0.16mm or lower for best results. 2 shells. 7-10% infill.

Printception Square Container

square-dish.stl

square-dish-alt.stl

noz-a-alt.stl

noz-a-blank.stl

**REANIMATE Your Printer!**

Want to take a classic MakerBot Replicator wooden box 3D printer (or similar clone) and print like a Voron with it???  This project is a full Core-XY conversion for the original Replicator! It replaces the original kinematics with all new printed parts and moves the motors to the rear of the case.  The original motors can even be used! Though I recommend replacement as mine were weak and overheated easily at higher speeds.

Some modification to the casing is required for the belts to pass through, and additional bolt holes for mounting! Some new hardware will be required as this was designed to use the same idler bearings and much of the same hardware as the Voron V0.1.  You can find links below to the necessary hardware!  No electronics parts are included as the configuration of that is up to you.

This project is not for the faint of heart, but I've provided the CAD STEP file of the complete design (in its orientation on the original MakerBot CAD model) so you can modify it as you need.  Or you could use it as a basis for converting a newer Replicator or a similar clone to Core-XY.

The X-Carriage and Toolhead assembly were designed to use the Phaetus DropEffect XG hotend, and the Annex Engineering Micro-Sherpa 3d printed extruder.

See the "README_Instructions" for photo references and more information about the build.

**Videos about this project:**
- https://youtu.be/4QKAGwknMiU
- https://youtu.be/V0_uvYiFAlQ
- https://youtu.be/sibyHlC4BQ8

---------------------------------------------------------------

 **Necessary Hardware (Affiliate Links):**
- Voron V0.1 Hardware kit (Contains of M3 screws, Bearings, Heat Inserts, & Bearings): https://amzn.to/3H2JydZ
- Motor Cogs: https://amzn.to/3WaOl1v 
- GT2 6mm Belt: https://amzn.to/3Gxj8zK 
- Omron Micro-switch (x-limit): https://amzn.to/3W8c1Ug
- DropEffect XG hotend: https://3dhub.ca/products/dropeffec-phaetus-xg-hotend?sca_ref=2790866.Fjs3GE1r9G
- Polymaker Filament: https://tinyurl.com/PolymakerASA
- Micro-Sherpa Extruder: https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Sherpa_Micro-Extruder
- LDO NEMA14 for Extruder: https://amzn.to/3kgZd0h
- 5015 Blower Fan: https://amzn.to/3QBHlto
- **OPTIONAL** 2A NEMA17 motors: https://amzn.to/3w3s8I2

---------------------------------------------------------------

**PRINT PARAMETERS:**
- Recommend 4-5 Perimeters 
- 40%+ Infill (I use Gyroid) 
- NO Supports Required (except on - hotend mount)
- ASA / ABS filament HIGHLY recommended!!

---------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.HotRodHippie.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------

**All of my Designs are covered by a Creative Commons Non-Commercial License.**  Sale of prints using my designs are the sole right of myself, the designer, and those I license to do so. Please understand every design is hours of work and multiple prototype prints to ensure quality.  Unauthorized sales will result in new designs not being made public.

PLEASE Credit any and all Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

MakerBot Replicator Core-XY Conversion - Project ReAniMaker

ReAniMaker_MakerBot_Replicator_Core_XY_V6.step

**DIY Doubled Up!**

Remixed version of ["RepRack"](https://www.printables.com/model/129024-reprack-open-source-spool-holder-and-storage-syste) Clamps for the RepRack filament storage system. Clamps the conduit onto the RepRack brackets (or my Remix, Double RepRack parts). 

Redesigned to be more streamlined (cooler looking), require less filament to print (barely), and off the option of either M4 hardware or use of M3 Heat Press Inserts.

**Requires additional hardware:** 
- Thread Cutting Screws
- M4 Hardware
- M3 Hardware
- M3 Heat Press Inserts
- 1/2" EMT Conduit

---------------------------------------------------------------
**Parts Needed (Affiliate Links):**
- 1/2" Conduit: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-2-in-Actual-50-In-Metallic-Emt-10-ft-Conduit/3129551
- M3 Heat Inserts: https://amzn.to/3LEMezN
- Polymaker Filament: https://tinyurl.com/Polymakerr
---------------------------------------------------------------
 **Files Included:**
- Streamlined RepRack Clamps STEP
- M4 Clamp STL
- Thread Cutting Screw Clamp STL
- M3 Insert Clamp STL
---------------------------------------------------------------
**Recommended Print Settings:**
- 3+ Perimeters
- 20% Infill
- No Supports Required
- PLA filament is generally fine for this application. If near hot components ASA or ABS would be preferred.

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Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.MandicReally.com/links

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RepRack Streamlined Clamp 

RepRack_Clamp_Remix_V1.step

**Make a MakerBot! Replicate with a Replicator!**

This is the Original MakerBot Replicator CAD file.  It is still available for download on Thingiverse HERE, but the files are missing some key components and it will not open properly in Fusion 360 or other CAD softwares. For my "Project ReAniMaker" build I had to spend some time sourcing the missing components and updating the file naming structure so it could be imported into Fusion 360.  

I make no claims of ownership over this design.  I just reconstructed the original CAD project file for  use in modern CAD software so others don't have to jump through the same hoops.  Also I colored various components in Fusion 360 so that they can be more easily visually seperated. I'm sharing this under the same "CC-SA" aka "Creative Commons Share-Alike" license as the original project is on Thingiverse.

Find MakerBot here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18813

You can find the design files for my "Project ReAniMaker" here: https://social.thangs.com/m/621414

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 **Files Included:**
- STEP File Version
- F3D Fusion 360 Version

---------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.MandicReally.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------



Original MakerBot Replicator CAD - REPAIRED! 

**Make a MakerBot! Replicate with a Replicator!**

This is the Original MakerBot Replicator CAD file.  It is still available for download on Thingiverse HERE, but the files are missing some key components and it will not open properly in Fusion 360 or other CAD softwares. For my "Project ReAniMaker" build I had to spend some time sourcing the missing components and updating the file naming structure so it could be imported into Fusion 360.  

I make no claims of ownership over this design.  I just reconstructed the original CAD project file for  use in modern CAD software so others don't have to jump through the same hoops.  Also I colored various components in Fusion 360 so that they can be more easily visually seperated. I'm sharing this under the same "CC-SA" aka "Creative Commons Share-Alike" license as the original project is on Thingiverse.

Find MakerBot here:

You can find the design files for my "Project ReAniMaker" here: 

---------------------------------------------------------------

 **Files Included:**
- STEP File Version
- F3D Fusion 360 Version

---------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.MandicReally.com/links

---------------------------------------------------------------



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