Keep your hands dry and enjoy your beer!

I live in Texas and my beer bottles sweat instantly when going outside.

I love koozies for my beers, but they fall apart pretty quick or can get nasty.

So, I made this simple koozie for my favorite beer right now, Michelob Ultra 12oz bottles, and printed it in TPU and have been using it for over 6 months without a single issue.

I have two versions…

1. with 2 holes (my daily driver) that I put a small ball chain through so I can hold it and other things while moving around to free up the hand better..
2. no holes

I printed these in TPU so they are flexible and will last longer without issues.

I also tried two printed methods using Cura.

1. As-is - plain print (left in the side-by-side pic)
2. Fuzzy Skin (right in the side-by-side pic)
And I LOVE the fuzzy skin much better. It has a better grip, and looks a bit better, but it is up to you.

My final one, not pictured, was printed in black… just a better color overall I think, but having other colors like blue, red, green, orange, etc., for holidays is fun too. :) Throw in a few filament changes and you could have a nice Red/White/Blue or Red/Green or Orange/Black koozie for the holidays or to match your favorite team's colors! 

I have not tried this on other beer bottles, so you may need to change the X & Y dimensions. Just print an inch or two to test before printing at max if you don't think your beer of choice will fit. 

Beer Bottle Koozie - TPU

my koozie v4 (ring holes).stl

My first model was good, but I wanted better.

This one is a simple print, all in one, with a slot to drop your NES game manual straight into.

The base is thicker and taller than before.

It just looks and works better this time (at least for me).

If you use a protective sleeve on your game manual, it may stick out the top (see pics). I may add another STL that extends higher for that, but I like it sticking up a tad so I can easily pull it when needed… but for aesthetics, I will probably add another soon. Let me know if that is something you may want.

I printed mine:

- Polymaker Black Matte PLA
- .28 height / . 48 line width / .4 nozzle
- 33% line infill (Cura) for weight on the bottom, but you can go much lower
- 90mm/s infill
- 40mm/s outer walls
- 50mm/s everything else
 - except support which was at 25mm/s - Cura 5.2 tree supports

NES Game Manual Frame v2 (new design)

NES Game Manual FrNES Game Manual Frame v2 (new design)ame (SLEEVED) (4).stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5901641.

This Rupee by default is about 1" wide, just under 2" tall and  ½" thick.

You can scale it if you wish. I used 100% for the Silver, Gold and “Diamond” ones and then 75% scale for the basic colors (approx. 20mm x 26mm x 10mm).

The display stand bases fit the 100% size Rupee, so if you scale your Rupees, make sure to scale the stands the same! (I forgot twice! haha).

There is a single stand, a row of 6, 7 & 8 stands, a “tri” stand of 6 and a “tri” stand of 3.

So you can mix and match or just print what suites your needs.

I haven't played in a long time, so I found a few WIki entries and based my prints on the following colors/point scale:

* Green: 1
* Blue: 5
* Yellow: 10
* Red: 20
* Purple: 50
* Orange: 100
* Silver: 200
* Gold: 300

There is no actual Diamond Rupee, but I wanted one, so that is pictured in my images for fun.

I printed the ‘tri’ 6 and ‘tri’ 3 stands after printing many of the single ones and deciding to make those.

I used a few different filaments:

Polymaker Matte PLA, Overture Matte PLA, Overture Silk PLA, Fillamentum Clear PLA and Prusament Orange PLA

I didn't have any purple, so I printed in White and used a purple Sharpee marker. I think it looks rather nice for now.

For the 1" ones, I printed at:

* .24 height / .44 width / .4 nozzle - 3 walls/perimeters - 0% infill - top/bottom 3 layers

for the 75% versions:

* .16 height / .32 width / .4 nozzle - 3 walls/perimeters - 0% infill - top/bottom 3 layers

For the bases/stands:

* .28 height / .52 width / .4 nozzle  - 20% infill (I printed these upside down so I could have my textured PEI pattern visible - you can rotate this if you want or leave as is) 

No supports were needed for the Rupees or the bases/stands.

Legend of Zelda Rupee & Display Stands

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5873714.

This is a remix, but it works well for the PSVR2.

The remix adds a few choices for the base to add extra weight in the front to reduce tipping over backwards. See the STL files for the base choices. I printed the simple ‘front bar’ one at first and then the black & white layer change solid bottom (no logo) one. There is also another more solid one but with ‘VR’ text embossed into it - not PS branded, just generic ‘VR’.

**3/4/23: Added two more bases - thick bottoms. One with a VR logo, the other without.**

**2/26/23: Added two more base versions that use a small lip at the front so the base has a little ‘tray’ that you can put things like spare parts for your DualSense Edge controller or those silicon ear bud alternate sizes. Just a place to keep them handy. I just printed this one for my final version for personal use.**

I printed mine at .28 height / .52 line width with a .4 nozzle  / 50% grid infill (for more weight only) and at 90mm/s.

The original suggested using M4x16 screws. I didn't have them, so I ended up using M4x20 self-tapping screws and they worked well.

*You can also just use the holes to align the top and base while you apply CA glue.*

* ***Feb 28 - Added two alignment ‘pegs’ to help those without screws.***
* ***The round ones print vertically, but will be weaker. The ones that have flat sides and print horizontally should be a bit stronger, but the caps will look ‘weird’ and give a lot more wiggle room and will need more attention to center. I think the glue on the base will be all the strength you need, so I would use the round ones if I didn't have screws to use.***
* ***Either way, to use these, print two and check the fit and resize in your slicer if you feel you want more or less of a tight fit. Add some CA glue to the base top and then some to each peg before inserting.  Insert the pegs, eyeballing the centering a little may be needed, and then just hold for a few seconds until the glue sets enough to hold it for you.***

I also used 5 clear rubber cabinet bumpers (about ½") for anti-slip on the bottom of the stand. Any similar type non-slip pads can be used of course.

**Images note: the solid base one (no logo) on the PS5 box has the base printed with a layer change so it starts black and then white and then the top is printed black. It is still the 2 part stand.**



Playstation VR2 (PSVR2) Headset Stand (updated Mar 4)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5897768.

I lost my original keys (found them eventually) so I found a few 3D printable ones, but I didn't really like them, They were nice and functional, but I wanted more of a standard key looking one that could sit on a keychain.

There are 3 different lengths to choose from depending on what you want.

Also, there is a second set that has fake teeth added for fun and to indicate the position you would normally insert these keys (teeth down). Makes it easier to insert without closely looking at the key.

I printed mine at:

* .16 line height (adds another couple of layers which helps a bit with the angle cut of the lower notch)
* .32 line width using a .4 nozzle
* Printed at 40mm/s
* Polymaker Matte PLA (orange in pics and black not pictured)

The actual functional part of the key is roughly 4mm x 4mm x 4mm, so use your best judgement for printing settings.

My key is a tad tight, which is fine, but depending on your slicer, you may want to adjust the size in your slicer up or down a tad for what feels best. If testing, use the small one to save time and plastic.

I keep the smallest one on my actual key ring and the longest one in orange secured next to my NAS'.

I tested the keys on:

* DS1812+
* DS1817+
* DS1621+

Synology Drive Bay 'Keys'

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5867723.

I only have one arcade stand up that doesn't even take quarters (Jamma Board 60-in-1) but I still love having a line of quarters setup. It just kinda feels right to have.

But, they fall all the time.

Someone recently asked on Reddit where they could get a quarters holder and in one of the replies there is someone selling an 8 slotted one. I had no idea that was a thing that existed.

I thought it was a simple design so I made this simple one in Tinkercad.

There are two versions.

8 US quarters
4 US quarters

Each slot can hold up to 2 US quarters for those pesky 50c games.

You can print them as is (you may need to rotate the 8 quarter version to fit your bed as it is about 220mm.  I rotated mine on my Ender 3 S1 Pro a bit and printed with a raft just to be sure I had no lifting on this.

The numbers are inset and you can leave it as is, or you can print the numbers in a different color and glue them in so they stick out / stand out better.

The numbers come all in one or each number can be printed separately in case one gets messed up.

OR - as I did - I used the individual numbers and scaled each to 99% for the X & Y and left the Z at 100% so they just fit a tad better fit.

I printed the numbers upside down so the user-facing side have my PEI texture which I like the look of better. The same would apply for other bed types like glass. This also removes any chance of elephant foot preventing the fit.

But print as you wish.

I printed both slow (30mm/s) and it finished in less than 2 ½ hours with some trial an error on the numbers (they are fast, even printed slow - about 5 minutes for the set of 8).

I just used the good old 3M double sided tape to stick it to the cab instead of VHB. We'll see how long that lasts.

Print in the color(s) of you choice to match the cab or your style.

If you want to re-Tinker this, [https://www.tinkercad.com/things/lNos9xaPQsY-next-up-8x2-quarters-holder-for-arcade](here it is on Tinkercad.)

Game On! 



Next Up! Arcade Game Queue Quarters Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5845009.

I liked mwolson's controller stand and printed a bunch for all my controllers and they are great.
For a PS Dualshock or Dualsense, I just had to widen it to 70mm and the stands were great.
However, the Dualsense Edge has the bottom buttons and rear buttons/paddles, so it didn't sit well.
I am no 3D modeler, but I was able to import the stand into Tinkercad and then add simple cutouts to allow the controller to rest without touching those buttons.
Sturdy and looks great. Yeah, a proper 3D modeler could make it form-fitting, but for me, this just works.

I printed it on its side with tree supports in Cura for the one side's notch.

Print however you wish.

The Tinker: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3tErHMnFH5S-ps5-dualsense-edge-stand-v2

PS5 Dualsense Edge Controller Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5845700.

Just a simple design you can alter using the Z Height in your slicer to make it any length you want. You can also adjust the Y axis to allow for more cables inside.
I just used some VHB tape to secure, but you could use other materials to fix to whatever surface you want.

The size is about an inch overall with about 20mm inside as is.

I used TPU for mine for the flexibility of putting the cables inside and also 'stuffing' them in.

I have a bunch of them.
The one image shows a few short runs (6" I think) on the back of my TV right under the LEDs near the top and there are other vertical ones that aren't really shown.
Crappy photo, sorry.

Simple and 'flexible'.

Print however you think works best for you since it is purely functional.


Yet Another Simple TPU Cable Channel

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5851718.

I wanted to reduce the size of the original for a couple of reasons:
Less Plastic
Storage Space

There are two widths: 30mm and 20mm

Print as you want... you can go high in infill for extra weight or not....
You can also pop on some small 10mm-12mm round cabinet bumpers to reduce slip incase of the kart hitting them, but it won't matter too much I think. Maybe?

I only tested these quickly and since they are small, they should only be used in certain situations.

I will be uploading a different design that is more like the original ones later, but that are a bit smaller so they fit in my 220mm bed size. These will be much better for distance.

Mario Kart LIVE Dual Sided Mini-Turn Signs

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5889112.

**This is NOT 100% a 35mm film cannister. It is close and just meant to resemble one. It measures approximately 33mm x 33mm x 50mm.**

This was designed so I could carry or keep close, two different pills, like Tylenol and Aleve for example.

There is one cannister with a center divider. It has a thin version (1mm thick) and a thicker one (2mm thick). I wasn't sure how durable the thin one would be long term, so the thicker one is an option and doesn't take much more volume from the inside.

The other cannister has no divider. It can fit the standard glucose tablets.

OR - use either one to hold screws or other small objects in while having an old school familiar looking object.

I printed mine in Polymaker Matte Black PLA for the cannister and the black caps pictured.

For the grey caps, I used eSun Grey PLA+. The caps fit, but were a little looser than the main cap, so I scaled it down a tiny bit for a nicer fit.

I used Cura to slice and used the ‘Exclusive’ Slicing Tolerance setting and the main cap fit perfect with a nice ‘snap’ when using the same material. 

I printed mine at .28 layer height / .52 line width / .4 nozzle at 90mm/s (Klipper).

(35mm Film Cannister) Pill/Glucose Tablet Cannisters

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5859209.

I only have one NES manual (Zelda) but I wanted to display it next to the cartridge.
This is just a simple frame, a stand to slide the frame into and a back plate help keep the manual inside.

The manual I have is inside a protective sleeve from an eBay seller 'RetroProtection', that adds a little extra length and width, so I designed this frame to accommodate the manual inside this sleeve.

I'd recommend doing the same for better protection rather than putting a manual inside with nothing. But if you do, you will need to scale down at least the vertical direction a few mm and do the same for the back plate.



NES Game Manual Frame

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5845670.

Simple Elmers glue stick holder for the Ender 3 S1 Pro (or any similar frame).


Print as whatever level of detail/resolution you wish in whatever material.

I just used PLA at .28 layer height and .52 line width.

Two different glue stick tube sizes:

* smaller - 6g glue stick
* large - 40g glue stick

*I should be able to get the 22g tube size done and added size soon.*


Ender 3 S1 Pro Elmers Glue Stick Holders (6g & 40g tube versions)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5853492.

I didn't like having to print the arrows and frame separately and glue them in, so I remixed this in Tinkercad to be printed all at once and just change filament at a certain layer.
You could also paint it I guess.

I also wanted this to print on my Ender 3 S1 Pro bed and take up as much space as possible, so the sign is 220mm wide and works perfect on my bed.
Just make sure that you do not have a brim or skirt enabled and if you print a primer line, either don't do it, or pull it really fast before the main print starts (what I do).

For me, I used .28 layer height and in Cura added a filament change at layer 13 and it worked awesome.

I used ironing on the first sign I made, but decided it wasn't worth the extra time, so I stopped that so I could bang out a bunch more.

For me, it was 68grams for a single sign and about 5g for each foot (you need at least 2 or could change the z height dimension to get away with just one.

The 'feet' are just barely tight enough to hold on in my printer, but depending on how your tolerances are, you may need to scale it up or down as you see fit.

Thanks for the original design!

Mario Kart LIVE Turn Sign - Layer Change Version

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5859677.

I printed these in the color changing filament. Not sure what brand, but those filaments that change at certain lengths.

Fun and cool looking… at least for me.

You could scale these up or down for different cubes (I did not for my 2x2 - I will some day).

Anyway… these were just for a more fun display of the cubes.

Print as you want. I don't remember my settings, but they were probably about the average standard quality profile for a .4 nozzle I think.

Rubik's Cube Display/Holder

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