A stand for a Sequre ES126 electric screwdriver and the Wiha Go Box MicroBits Set.

SQ-ES126 and Wiha Go Box MicroBits Stand

# Case for Adafruit QT PY RP2040

This is a case for the Adafruit QT PY RP2040 board. The QT PY RP2040 is a small microcontroller board based on the Raspberry Pi RP2040 microcontroller. It has a USB interface and a very tiny form factor. I am using this to interface with an ADXL345 accelerometer for use with Klipper's Resonance Compensation (aka Input Shaper). I wanted something to hold the RP2040 so that it doesn't short out. The underside of the case has two magnets, which can be used to secure the case to a nearby ferrous object (like the X axis rods, or the heatbed on a Prusa MK3) during measurements.

## Hardware

* 5x5mm rare earth magnets [Amazon.com](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075PNR4W5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
* M2.5 x 0.45mm thread, 8mm long Socket Head Screw [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A102/) or [BoltDepot.com](https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6371) (Note: longer lengths should work too)
* Tapered Heat-Set Inserts for Plastic - M2.5 x 0.45mm thread [McMaster-Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/94180A321/)

## Assembly

1. Press heat-set inserts into top using heat-set press or soldering iron. 
2. Press magnets into the two large holes in the bottom. They should go in with a little resistance, but should not require gorilla force to insert. If you have issues inserting them, or if they are too loose, I have provided the Fusion 360 source (check the User Parameter, ```magnet_hole```).
3. Insert a zip tie through the slot in the cable retainer. This is used to provide strain relief for your the cable going to the ADXL345 (or whatever other electronic device you are controlling). The hole is big enough to accept ~5-6mm shrouded, 6-conductor cable.
4. Insert M2.5 screws in bottom, and into heat-sets on top.

Case for Adafruit QT PY RP2040

Smaller_Bottom.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3348838.

NOTE: This is an update to my [original rear plug PSU design] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3180564)

Although the original design was functional and served it's purpose, several users reported that it tends to warp during print. Although I have not completely eliminated warping with this design, I have minimized it to the point that it's not an  issue (you might notice the bottom of the case is a fraction of a millimeter not level, but the bottom component will easily flex to fit this small error). 

---

I wanted to use a Mean Well LRS-350 power supply with my Bear upgraded MK3, so I designed the case available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3111868

Some people asked about a version with the plug coming out the rear of the case, so I created this design. The Prusa MK3 plug has soldered directly to it a "power panic" board. This is a small PCB with a circuit that detects that mains power has failed and notifies the printer controller before the 24V supply from the PSU also fails so that the state of any in-progress print job can be saved. Because this board is soldered directly to the terminals of the power (IEC) socket, the layout of the case is somewhat constrained. This is why there is a large bulge around the socket.

Like the [side-plug version of my Bear PSU case] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3111868), it attaches to the frame in a manner similar to the Prusa PSU with the mounts in the Bear print list, however the "upper PSU mounts" are different (STL is included), so make sure you print those instead. The "lower PSU mount" is the same as that used for the Prusa PSU.

Like the Prusa PSU case, and unlike my other design, this case has a removable bottom. I connect the mains Ground/Neutral/Load wires and 24V/GND wires to the PSU outside of the case, and then slide everything together. Then I plug the mains wires into the plug and the switch using a pair of needlenose pliers.

**To attach the case to the PSU you will need 3 M4x8 flathead screws**. If you want to use longer screws, check carefully that the screws on the back of the PSU are not contacting the circuit board. **The brackets mount with M4x8 button head screws, just as with the original Bear parts for the Prusa PSU. Flat head can be substituted if that's all you have.** 

**To attach the bottom to the case, you will need 4 M3 square nuts (DIN 562), and 4 M3x8 flathead screws. Both of these can be sourced from the Prusa PSU cover.**

The case has a hole in the left hand side of the front. There is an additional component you can print, Voltage_Adjust_Guide.stl. This fits into this hole and provides a guide for a small screwdriver if you need to adjust the PSU output voltage after installation (the guide is there so that your screwdriver doesn't wander off target and short something out).

As with all my designs, the Fusion 360 source file is provided so that you can easily do any customization that you find useful.

---
EDIT (2019-01-27): Fixed an issue where the "foot" was inadvertently moved too far forward, and so would not line up with the frame bracket.

Mean Well LRS-350 PSU Case with Rear Plug for Prusa i3 Bear Full Upgrade (R3)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3255941.

I am a huge fan of the wonderful Bear upgrade to the Prusa MK3/MK2 printers from user pekcitron ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808408 ). I recently built an enclosure to house my Full Bear MK3 and wanted some additional cable clips to secure the LCD cables to the enclosure. In addition, I always felt that the ziptie cable clip that is included in the Bear parts would be better if the ziptie orientation was perpendicular so that the ziptie could more naturally hold cables oriented parallel to the extrusions.

This design includes source and STL for the following 5 cable clips:

* LCD cable clip with magnetic mount (two versions, one with magnet underneath, one with the magnet to the side).
* LCD cable clip with screw-down mount (two versions, one with the screw hole in front/behind the clip, one with it to the side).
* A cable clip that mounts into a 4020 or 2020 extrusion and which holds a ziptie.

All 5 are remixes starting with a design from pekcitron's cable clips. As always, Fusion 360 source is provided if you would like to customize these for your needs.

The cable clips with magnet mounts were designed for these magnets, but Fusion 360 source is provided if you would like to customize for a different magnet size:

https://www.michaels.com/promag-neodymium-magnets/10413548.html

---
EDIT: 2018-12-10

Added an alternative version of the ziptie mount. This version sits a bit more flush to the v-slot, while also providing a better surface to grip when you install it.

Cable clips for enclosures and Prusa Bear

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024407.

I was building my own drybox and needed a port/pass-through to route filament out of the box. I wanted something that would utilize a PTFE tube and a fitting to hold that in place. I also wanted to be able to seal it off when not in use, and have it be reasonably air tight to keep moisture out. Finally, I thought it would be good to be able to incorporate a small piece of foam filter to keep any dust or dirt before out of the PTFE tube and out of my extruder.

I couldn't find anything meeting all these criteria, so I designed my own. I feel strongly that people should provide the CAD source files for their designs, so that others can easily remix, and so I have done so here.

In addition to the Fusion 360 and STL files, you will find a PDF and SVG file. These are to be used for laser-cutting the gasket. I cut this gasket out of 2mm EVA foam using a Glowforge laser cutter, but you could also easily cut something out with a pair of scissors.

To use this, you will need some PC4-M10 fittings. These are available any number of places, including Amazon.com. Screw the fitting into the threaded section inside the pass-through. Pass the passhtrough through a hole in your drybox (a step drill works great for drilling through plastic boxes), add the gasket, and use the Nut to screw everything. 

Insert  some 4mm PTFE tube of appropriate length into the PC4-M10 fitting. It should go all the way through the fitting and be captured and held in alignment by a chamber inside the pass-through. You can now optionally add a small piece of foam to the little compartment inside the pass-through. I find it's easier to poke the filament through the foam before inserting. Don't forget to feed the filament through the hole in the cap before doing this. Screw on the cap, and you're ready to go. 

There's a separate closed version of the cap to seal everything off when a port is not in use.

Dry-box Filament Pass-Through

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4991777.

This is a very simple remix of the excellent PTFE tube cutter from the Bear Extruder and X-Axis for Prusa printers. I have just changed the length from 50mm to 35mm to accommodate the shorter PTFE tube that the Dragon-ST hotend uses.

PTFE Cutting Tool for Phaetus Dragon-ST Hotend

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170732.

The Bear upgrade for the Prusa MK3 is a wonderful bit of work ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808408 ). It now comes with some nice reverse Bowden adapters that attach to the Bear's v-slot frame. These adapters work great with the tee-nuts that come with the Bear kits, however they aren't compatible with the spring-loaded roll-in tee-nuts.

The spring-loaded roll-in tee nuts ( http://a.co/d/dPHTUTz ) are really convenient for adding things to your frame after you've got it all together. They don't require removing the end from the v-slot, and because of the spring they stay in place wherever you put them while you screw in whatever your'e attaching with them.

The Bear accessories have a 1.4mm deep v-slot profile, and unfortuantely with these tee-nuts, there just isn't enough room. While this deep profile is a good idea for structural parts, it isn't needed for things like the reverse Bowden adapters. So I have remixed these to use a slimmer profile which is compatible with these tee-nuts (It took me longer to type this than it did to make the change).

I've also included an extra adapter that I use to route the PTFE tube from the bottom of the frame to the top.


NOTE: This is a remix of 2 parts that are not on Thingiverse. They can be found here: https://github.com/gregsaun/bear_extruder_and_x_axis/tree/master/optional_parts/reverse_bowden

Bear Reverse Bowden adapters compatible with Spring-Loaded, Roll-In Tee-Nuts

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3332882.

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2124509

Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=2124509



Frankling Stud Finder Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3168763.

I love the little $20 cameras from Wyze ( https://www.wyzecam.com/ ), but the magnetic mount they come with is limiting. This design allows you to securely mount a Wyze Cam v2 to a tube. It's designed for a one inch tube, but Fusion 360 source is provided for those who want to mix their own. 

You will need to disassemble the the base of the mount. Save the pivot hardware, as you will use that to attach to this mount. You will also need some M3x20mm screws and hex nuts. I used Nylock lock nuts so that they don't come loose.

The Wyze hardware has a tendency to loosen if you adjust the mount a lot, so you may want to use a little purple thread-locker to secure things. 

Wyze Cam tube mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3255961.

I recently built an enclosure for my Prusa MK3 and wanted a way to secure the LCD to the outside of the enclosure. The attached LCD supports will allow you to secure the LCD/controller with a screw.

Note that these are remixes of the parts from user pekcitron's wonderful Bear upgrade: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808408

As always, Fusion 360 source is provided in case you would like to modify the design for a different screw size or some other purpose.

Prusa LCD Supports for Enclosure (Screw-Down)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2974262.

EDIT (2018-12-03) : I NO LONGER RECOMMEND THIS PART for users running recent Prusa firmware; this part adds a small margin of offset from the dimensions of the Prusa design so that the “endstop” impact point will be on this part and not the bearing as in the original design. One user has reported that recent Prusa firmwares detect this offset during XYZ calibration and treat it as an error. It is possible that reducing this offset could resolve this issue, but as I have converted my MK3 over to the Bear frame, I no longer have a way of verifying this. My apologies to anyone who wasted time and filament on this part only to find this issue. All I can say is that it worked great until someone at Prusa decided to Add what I consider an unnecessary check to the firmware .

-------

The plastic parts that Prusa ships with their i3 MK3 printer are printed with minimal infill (some reports as low as 10%). The designs are also a bit thin. As a result of these two things, some parts flex more than is desirable. 

I had printed and was using this replacement motor mount:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2777432

I had opted to drill the 3rd hole in the frame for this. 

Another MK3 design choice that I was not happy with, was the choice to use one of the y-axis bearings as the end stop for the y axis. Every time the y-axis collides with this bearing, there is some twisting of the bed and the potential to move the bearing out of position. 

User jltx created a modified motor mount that uses it and the belt holder together to create an alternative y-axis end stop. I wanted to combine both these ideas. Unfortunately, I didn't have access to CAD files for either, but I was able to find an older version of the "juiced" motor mount, and using some measurements of the end stop, create my own.

To attach the bracket to the motor, re-use two of the M3x10 screws from the Prusa bracket. The new motor mount hole (the one closest to the top when the bracket is installed) requires an M3x8. 

To attach the bracket to the frame, you can re-use 2 of the M3n nuts from the Prusa bracket. You will need M3x12 screws instead of the M3x10 used in the original. Use of the 3rd hole is optional, and requires drilling a hole in the frame. If  you want to do this, you can flip the mount around the other side of the frame, attach it via the 2 holes that are already there, and use the 3rd hole as a drilling template.







Prusa i3 MK3 Y-Axis Motor Holder with End Stop

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3165428.

My wife had a ratty old cardboard container holding her Q-tips, so I made her this one as a replacement. There are three parts. The handle screws into the lid and was designed as a separate part for ease of printing.

Note: photo shows an older version that didn't have both "Q-tip" labels on the lid.

Q-tip container

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3153637.

I am a big fan of the Bear upgrade for the Prusa i3 printers (See details here: https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade ). When i was assembling the frame, I wanted a tool to help me do the rough alignment of the Y-axis rods. This Thing provides just such a tool. 

I have tried to minimize the amount of filament required, while still providing a stable base so that you can get a nice perpendicular interface with the frame. To use, press the tool onto one of the side V-slot extrusions. Move the tool from front to back, making sure the rod is just touching on both ends, and is therefore parallel with the extrusion. The tool should extend out into the print bed area, and should just touch the rod. I recommend using this to do the rough alignment on the left-hand rod, and then use a pair of calipers to adjust the distance to the right hand rod precisely. 

Note that because the heated bed itself has a good bit of manufacturing slop, you may want to come back and tweak the final position of the rod after you've had a chance to review the XYZ calibration result. However, this tool should at least let you get close.

As always, Fusion 360 source is provided in case you want to tweak the design.

EDIT (2018-12-22): Cleaned up the sketch geometry in Fusion 360. This shouldn't impact the STL significantly, but I've regenerated the STL anyway. I parameterized the main dimensions, so if you have a customized Bear frame, it should be straightforward to adjust this design per your needs.


Y-Rod Alignment Helper for Prusa MK3 Bear Upgrade 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3153183.

This is a small clip that holds the bowden tube to the extruder wire bundle and optionally to a 3rd wire, for example that attached to a bed leveling sensor.  It lets you remove the tape that is used on some printers, proviinge an overall cleaner look and eliminating the chance for any sticky tape residue. 

I got the idea from "CR10 Bowden and Cable clip" by Juicybacon. However, there were a few small things I wanted to change in that design. Specifically I wanted to add a 3rd section to hold the cable for my EZABL sensor, and I wanted to angle the 3 sections to minimize space. I also decided to reduce the wall thickness a bit to make the clip more flexible.

Unfortunately, no CAD source file was provided, so I ended up having to recreate this from scratch. I have included the Fusion 360 source files with mine, so that others that want to make changes can readily do so. The F360 file has User Parameters for the wall thickness, diameters of each of the 3 sections, and the angle of the outer sections relative to the. center-line.

I have included STL for straight and 45-degree angled versions.

The clips shown in the pictures were printed in PETG, which is a little more flexible than PLA, but I expect that PLA will work fine as well.


CR-10 Bowden Tube Cable Clips

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3265544.

I love the little $20 cameras from Wyze ( https://www.wyzecam.com/ ), but the magnetic mount they come with is limiting. This design allows you to securely mount a Wyze Cam v2 to V-Slot extrusions that are commonly used for 3D printer frames. 

I have provided STLs for two versions of the mount. One has a standard v-slot profile depth, and is ideal when using a standard tee-nut. The other has a reduced profile depth so that you can use it with "drop-in" tee nuts. Fusion 360 source is provided for those who want to do further customization, such as changing the height of the mount (see attached photo to see the parameters that are available).

To use this, you will need to disassemble the the base of the Wyze mount. On the base there are 4 rubber pads that are affixed with adhesive. Remove these, and there will be screws underneath. After removing these screws, the base plate will come off, and it should be evident how to remove the base at the lower, horizontal, pivot. 

Save the pivot hardware, as you will use that to attach to this mount. You will also need a tee-nut and a M5x10mm screw (ideally flat head).

If the Wyze hardware comes loose, you may want to use a little purple thread-locker to secure things. You can tighten it down pretty firmly, though, as the plastic tabs are supported by the Wyze pivot.


WyzeCam V-Slot Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3165400.

I have some 32mm neodymium disc magnets (Amazon: http://a.co/d/3Qbnjnb ) that I use to hold things flat in the bed of my laser printer. These work great, but the magnets are so strong that it is challenging to find a safe way to store them. If they stick to each other, it is extremely difficult to get them apart.

So I wanted a container that would hold the magnets a safe distance apart, allowing easy removal and avoiding pinched fingers. I ended up making this two-piece design. It holds 6 magnets, and if it seems large for so few magnets, it's because the magnets have to be REALLY far apart or you won't be able to get them out of the container.

Pro tips: When inserting or removing magnets, open the holder up just enough to expose one magnet/slot This prevents the another magnet from hopping out and sticking to the magnet you are trying to insert (and possibly pinching your finger).

If a magnet is hard to insert, flip it over. The other magnets in the container will either repel or attract the magnet you are inserting depending on the orientation of its poles.

Place one magnet outside the container, on the closed end, and it will provide just enough force to stop the holder from opening accidentally (assuming you have magnets inside the holder).



Holder for super strong disc magnets

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3307148.

I am a big fan of the Bear upgrade for the Prusa i3 printers (See details here: https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade ). When i was assembling the upgrade, I found it quite tedious to get the Y idler and Y motor holder/pulley aligned with the belt center that is determined by the belt holder. The belt holder is out of sight underneath the frame (and the heatbed, if you've already installed that). In addition. to adjust the motor holder requires removing the motor.

This simple tool allows you to center the motor holder and the idler holder accurately and consistently, without need for iterative adjustments or peering under things with a flashlight. 

To adjust the idler, first loosen the idler holder frame screws. Next place the rounded portion of the tool on one of the Y rods. You want the shallower of the two sides pointing down. Slide the tool back near the idler, and then adjust the idler holder so that the idler is centered on the tool (see attached picture). Then tighten down the idler holder to the frame.

To adjust the motor pulley, if the motor is already attached, you will first need to remove it. Next loosen the screws on the motor holder. Adjust the pulley on the motor shaft so that the ribbed section is nearest the motor body, but offset slightly (1mm or so) so that it doesn't rub on the motor body. By placing the pulley in this position, you minimize any flexing of the shaft within the motor bearings caused by the tension on the belt. Place the tool on one of the Y rods, this time with the long section down. Hold the motor up against the mount, but do not attach it with screws yet. Now slide the entire motor holder + motor + pulley assembly to center the tool on the pulley. Tighten the motor holder to the frame, and then reinstall the motor using the 3 screws. 

Y-Belt Alignment Helper for Prusa MK3 Bear Upgrade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024428.

I have a drybox that uses PTFE tube to route the filament to my printer. When not in use, I needed a way to cap the PTFE tube to keep moisture from getting into the box. I also wanted something that would grab hold of the filament so that it doesn't go back up into the tube, requiring me to open the box. 

While there are several PTFE tube caps available on Thingiverse, I only found one that also captures the filament. However, it didn't work very well. I created my own design that has some flexible arms inside the cap that will latch onto the filament.

2018-07-30: Updated to fix issue in F360 source file, to reduce wall thickness, and to parameterize a few things.

PTFE Tube Cap with Filament Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419322.

I purchased the little mechanical computer toy/game called "Turing Tumble" ( https://www.turingtumble.com ). It is a really cool toy, but the board for ours was warped enough so that the plastic pieces that connect the marble release to the flippers at the bottom were touching the pegs in certain places. 

See these threads on the Turing Tumble Community web site for detailts:

https://community.turingtumble.com/t/connectors-touching-back-of-board-and-blocking-holes/623
https://community.turingtumble.com/t/bit-can-not-move-in-one-place/277

This Thing is a small piece that clips onto the connector and spaces it far enough out from the board so that the pegs do not impact it. 

As always, I've included the Fusion 360 (CAD) source file in case you would like to make changes to the design.

Turing Tumble Connector Spacer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3175043.

Many printers, especially those with a Bowden extruder, use PC4-M10 fittings to retain the PTFE tube at the extruder. Reportedly on Bowden printers it helps with retraction if the fittings at both ends have a firm grip on the PTFE tube so that it can't move during a retract. I saw a couple of clips that were designed to hold the fitting retainer up which helps firm up the tube retention. However, neither of them really fit the PC4-M10 fittings that are commonly available here in the US. So I designed this clip. 

I tested the clip on a couple of different brands of PC4-M10 fittings, and it worked well on both. It's possible your fittings have slightly different dimensions, so I've included the Fusion 360 file for the design. Ping me in the comments if you're not able to use that to make any needed changes on your own.

PC4-M10 Retention Clip

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