Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3899683.

**New nozzles uploaded for dual blower configuration**
The nozzles with "2" in the name are better for the dual-blower configuration, as the original (smaller) ones are too restrictive and cause the blowers to stall. The smaller ones *may* still be better for the single-blower configuration.

-----------------------------------


**QMB** == **Q**uiet, **M**odular, **B**lower-based Ender 3 hot-end and part cooler
*(if you have an idea of a catchier name, feel free to suggest it!)*

------------------------------------

**Work in progress**
I've only tested the single-blower version at this point, and it works great.
This was designed for the Ender 3. I don't know if it will fit an Ender 5 or a CR10 or not (I've heard parts are swappable, but don't have access to try). Please let me know the results if you test it on one!

----------------------------------------

I designed this with several things in mind:
**1. Forced air through the hotend heatsink.**
I'm amazed at how well the Ender 3 works with fans only blowing *at* the heatsink with no exit ductwork. I wanted to correct this and have air ducted *to*, *through*, and *away from* the heatsink.
**2. No spillage of air from the heatsink to the part.**
This is important for when you don't want airflow on your part, such as when printing with materials that like to shrink. The air is forced *behind* the heatsink, through back-to-front and straight up and away.
**3. Larger openings for the part cooler ducts.**
Far too many coolers put a high restriction on the fans with very small duct nozzle openings, and fans typically do not flow well through restrictions.
**4. Blowers instead of fans.**
Fans are great at airflow. Blowers are much better at (an designed for) maintaining pressure through restrictions.
**5. Low noise.**
Axial fans with the intake facing forward produce *a lot* of noise. They were *by far* the noisiest parts of my printers.
I've found that 4020 and even 4010 blowers are *a lot* quieter than 4010 fans, while moving more air through restrictions. The largest source of noise from blowers is the *intake*. I aimed the intake away from the room to help mitigate this. This is far from perfect, I believe a shroud can be attached to further quiet the intakes down (I may design one in the future), but at this point, the power supply and mainboard fans are *by far* the loudest part of my printer.
**6. Airflow to the part with a place to go.**
I've angled the airflow coming out of duct nozzles from both sides so the air flows across the extruder nozzle at an angle to the rear. This will draw in air from the front as well, pulling air across the tip of the extruder nozzle, where you want it. Many part coolers do this, but many simply blow straight at the nozzle from both sides, leaving a dead-zone in the middle with no airflow.
**7. Swappable/adjustable/removable duct nozzles**
I made the duct nozzles very simple for remixing in case anyone wants to experiment with different shapes, angles, opening sizes, etc. The two sides are mirror images of each-other, so you really only need to design one (you can mirror a part in cura with a mouse-click). The nozzles in the uploaded picture (of just two nozzles) are actually an earlier version, the uploaded model is an improvement on that. Printing variations on the design is quick and uses very little material.
You can trim the duct top (or simply slice it with it lowered slightly through the built plate) if you want it raised higher once pressed all the way in, or lower it easily just by pulling it down a little (it should fit snugly enough to hold, more on that in the Assembly section).
The duct nozzles can be removed if you're not using the part cooler while printing materials prone to shrink when cooled, providing even more visibility to your work.
**8. Modular for different fan arrangements.**
The back plate forms a duct for cooling the heatsink, and acts as a platform for the front plate which holds the part cooler fan(s) and ductwork. The front can easily be remixed for different blowers. I provided a model for a single 4020 blower and another for dual 4020 blowers for part-cooling.
**9. Open view of the nozzle for remote viewing**
I didn't want the part cooler making it difficult to see the nozzle from a camera.
**10. Good clearance from the heat-block.**
My favorite part cooler melted while printing at 280C recently (*yes, with an all-metal insert in the hot-end*) because it was too close to the heat-block.
The single-blower front housing has decent clearance, and the dual-blower front housing has a very open area shaped to allow convection up from the heat-block.
Note: I've not *yet* tried printing at 280C with this cooler! It should hold up, but I can't say for certain yet.
**11. Access to service the bowden tube**
Both front housings provide full access to the bowden tube fitting. The dual-blower front housing also has a full relief for the set-screw (grub-screw) holding the heatbreak into the heatsink.

Backplate octolapse:  https://youtu.be/zC_PO1anxJs
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zC_PO1anxJs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Single-blower front housing octolapse:  https://youtu.be/bAtzbjC3eqs
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bAtzbjC3eqs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Dual-blower front housing octolapse:  https://youtu.be/Z1cdWggT7Hg
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z1cdWggT7Hg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Duct nozzle octolapse:  https://youtu.be/qX8zVnqQ4UM
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qX8zVnqQ4UM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Large opening duct nozzles octolapse:  https://youtu.be/KrtulF2xaNU
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KrtulF2xaNU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

**October 6th, 2019, 2pm:**
Uploaded fixed version of dual-blower front housing (was missing attachment points for 2nd blower - d'oh!).

**October 6th, 2019, 6pm:**
Uploaded slightly improved version of the dual-blower front housing.

**October 13, 2019, 9:40pm**
Uploaded version 2 of the duct nozzles. These are far more open and a bit further away from the heater block. These are good for the dual blower version, as the smaller ducts nozzles restricted the blowers to the point of stalling.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

**Things I may change / possible improvements**

As mentioned above, I *may* create a shroud to quiet the fans even further. Right now they're quiet enough that I can't hear them over the obnoxious stock main-board fan or the power supply fan (upgrading those will come first).

I *may* add a bit more clearance around the heatsink fins (*but not at the top and bottom*) to provide for a bit of air to bypass the fins (since they're so close together) allowing the 4010 blower to operate a bit more efficiently. It'll be interesting to see if it still cools as well (*or better*).

I *may* put some finishing touches on the single-blower front housing that you can see on the dual-blower front housing. Aside from aesthetic tweaks, I may add a relief for accessing the set-screw (grub-screw) to the single-blower front housing.

I *may* experiment with and upload some more duct nozzles. Those are easy to swap and very economical to print.

~~I have a Chinese all-metal hotend I've been thinking about trying. I will likely make a remix/variant of this that will work with that hotend.~~
I have uploaded remixed [thing 3947323](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3947323) that supports a Microswiss clone hotend.

QMB Ender 3 hot-end and part cooler

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015353.

I was planning to print some of the other vertex models I found on thingiverse, but they appeared to have a bit too much clearance for my liking, or they didn't quite fit [the 3D model I was using](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2965780) (which I've found to be extremely accurate).
I started playing around in FreeCAD and realized that the Anycubic Linear Plus does not use the method (that I'm familiar with) of aligning the outside arc with the junction of the lines extended from the inside of the extrusions - it's off by a very odd amount which alters the relationship of the extrusions. Once I figured this out, I was able to model a reinforcement bracket that fit extremely snugly and slides into place without so much as filing.

I designed this to have a broad shell, rather than a skeleton, as it's much more rigid. After printing it, I think it looks better too. :)
The bracket has protrusions that go into the extrusions, ensuring the alignment is consistent.
The opening for the vertical extrusion also has two more shallow ones along its sides that allow the part to be snapped into place, then slid (with resistance, it's very snug by design!) down to the horizontal extrusions.
The legs are longer than the more common models, matching up with the length of the stock vertex parts.

You may notice what appears to be a lack of holes in the model. The holes are there, but with a 0.4mm wall on the ends of the vertical holes and a 0.16mm floor on the bottom of the horizontal hole. This is to prevent the need for supports when printing small-side-down as simple bridges will be printed (preview in your slicer to see this).
See below for post-print cleanup.

The holes and reliefs are sized for M5 button-head cap-screws (as can be seen in the pictures). If you use all available holes, you'll need 10 screws per bracket.

---------------------
The cube in the pictures was printed after I installed these reinforcements and switched to a [flying extruder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015227) (and reduced my retractions to 0.4mm).

---------------------

I picked a font that was as close as I could find to the stencil font Anycubic uses.
If anyone knows of a (free) font that's closer, please let me know and I'll switch and regenerate the STLs.

Anycubic Kossel vertex reinforcement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3947323.

This is a remix of my QMB cooler for the Microswiss clone hotends. It has not been tested with a genuine Microswiss yet! Please let me know the results if you test it with a real one!
-----------------------------------

**QMB** == **Q**uiet, **M**odular, **B**lower-based Ender 3 hot-end and part cooler
*(if you have an idea of a catchier name, feel free to suggest it!)*

------------------------------------

Unlike the original QMB, I only made a dual-blower version of this as I figure if you're printing with extra heat, you're going to want the possibility of extra cooling!

This was designed for the Ender 3. I don't know if it will fit an Ender 5 or a CR10 or not (I've heard parts are swappable, but don't have access to try). Please let me know the results if you test it on one!

----------------------------------------

I designed this with several things in mind:
**1. Forced air through the hotend heatsink.**
I'm amazed at how well the Ender 3 works with fans only blowing *at* the heatsink with no exit ductwork. I wanted to correct this and have air ducted *to*, *through*, and *away from* the heatsink.
**2. No spillage of air from the heatsink to the part.**
This is important for when you don't want airflow on your part, such as when printing with materials that like to shrink. The air is forced *behind* the heatsink, through back-to-front and straight up and away.
**3. Larger openings for the part cooler ducts.**
Far too many coolers put a high restriction on the fans with very small duct nozzle openings, and fans typically do not flow well through restrictions.
**4. Blowers instead of fans.**
Fans are great at airflow. Blowers are much better at (an designed for) maintaining pressure through restrictions.
**5. Low noise.**
Axial fans with the intake facing forward produce *a lot* of noise. They were *by far* the noisiest parts of my printers.
I've found that 4020 and even 4010 blowers are *a lot* quieter than 4010 fans, while moving more air through restrictions. The largest source of noise from blowers is the *intake*. I aimed the intake away from the room to help mitigate this. This is far from perfect, I believe a shroud can be attached to further quiet the intakes down (I may design one in the future), but at this point, the power supply and mainboard fans are *by far* the loudest part of my printer.
**6. Airflow to the part with a place to go.**
I've angled the airflow coming out of duct nozzles from both sides so the air flows across the extruder nozzle at an angle to the rear. This will draw in air from the front as well, pulling air across the tip of the extruder nozzle, where you want it. Many part coolers do this, but many simply blow straight at the nozzle from both sides, leaving a dead-zone in the middle with no airflow.
**7. Swappable/adjustable/removable duct nozzles**
I made the duct nozzles very simple for remixing in case anyone wants to experiment with different shapes, angles, opening sizes, etc. The two sides are mirror images of each-other, so you really only need to design one (you can mirror a part in cura with a mouse-click). The nozzles in the uploaded picture (of just two nozzles) are actually an earlier version, the uploaded model is an improvement on that. Printing variations on the design is quick and uses very little material.
You can trim the duct top (or simply slice it with it lowered slightly through the built plate) if you want it raised higher once pressed all the way in, or lower it easily just by pulling it down a little (it should fit snugly enough to hold, more on that in the Assembly section).
The duct nozzles can be removed if you're not using the part cooler while printing materials prone to shrink when cooled, providing even more visibility to your work.
**8. Modular for different fan arrangements.**
The back plate forms a duct for cooling the heatsink, and acts as a platform for the front plate which holds the part cooler fan(s) and ductwork. The front can easily be remixed for different blowers. I provided a model for a single 4020 blower and another for dual 4020 blowers for part-cooling.
**9. Open view of the nozzle for remote viewing**
I didn't want the part cooler making it difficult to see the nozzle from a camera.
**10. Good clearance from the heat-block.**
My favorite part cooler melted while printing at 280C recently (*yes, with an all-metal insert in the hot-end*) because it was too close to the heat-block.
The single-blower front housing has decent clearance, and the dual-blower front housing has a very open area shaped to allow convection up from the heat-block.
Note: I've not *yet* tried printing at 280C with this cooler! It should hold up, but I can't say for certain yet.
**11. Access to service the bowden tube**
Both front housings provide full access to the bowden tube fitting. The dual-blower front housing also has a full relief for the set-screw (grub-screw) holding the heatbreak into the heatsink.


Backplate octolapse:  https://youtu.be/ieJv_NF62Cg
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ieJv_NF62Cg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Front housing octolapse:  https://youtu.be/Iz27TH-qa0U
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Iz27TH-qa0U" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Duct nozzles octolapse:  https://youtu.be/KrtulF2xaNU
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KrtulF2xaNU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


**Things I may change / possible improvements**

As mentioned above, I *may* create a shroud to quiet the fans even further. Right now they're quiet enough that I can't hear them over the obnoxious stock main-board fan or the power supply fan (upgrading those will come first).

~~I *may* add a bit more clearance around the heatsink fins (*but not at the top and bottom*) to provide for a bit of air to bypass the fins (since they're so close together) allowing the 4010 blower to operate a bit more efficiently. It'll be interesting to see if it still cools as well (*or better*).~~
This is not needed with this hotend as the gaps between the fins is much greater than stock. The 4010 blower shows no signs of stalling and runs very quietly  on mine.

I *may* experiment with and upload some more duct nozzles. Those are easy to swap and very economical to print.


QMB Ender 3 Microswiss (clone) hot-end and part cooler

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015280.

This is a mount for an SKR v1.3 into a Kossel printer. I'm using it in an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus for an easy upgrade to TMC2130 drivers (makes it super quiet) along with a Raspberry Pi (see [thing 4015230](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015230)) to run Klipper firmware. The cables can be routed as shown, or, if you use feet (if your printer is slightly raised), you can route the stepper cables under the board and up through the slots next to the stepper drivers.

The part named "power-port" provides a mount for the fan, the duct, and an XT60E-M connector. I wanted this so I could easily disconnect my power supply, and to prevent anything that might snag the power cord from putting strain on the SKR v1.3 board's connectors. I used Amazon item B07YJMCDC3 (in case you want a bundle of them or are in too much of a rush to buy from Mouser or Digikey).

The duct mounts to the above part, sandwiching a 4020 blower fan. Having the intake of the fan within the ductwork reduces noise significantly, since the intake is the major source of noise in that type of blower. The air is drawn partly through the obvious holes in the face of the duct and partly through the gap between the drivers and the duct opening. Having the heatsink fins aimed so air coming through the duct holes goes straight into them is likely beneficial here. The warmed air is ducted out of the printer through the "power-port" part.

The main mounting holes are sized for M5 screws, but smaller will work with washers.
The XT60E-M (if you bought from Amazon using the item mentioned) comes with its own M2.5 screws, the holes are sized for those.
The SKR v1.3 board mounts with M3 screws, directly into the printed plastic. The holes are 2.8mm diameter, so the M3 screws will cut threads into the plastic if you turn slowly with pressure at first. This works best with PETG, but also works with PLA.

I'm using a 24V fan on the 12V power ~~and it draws enough air through that I've not had any signs of the drivers heating up,~~ and the fan is nearly dead silent. The loudest part (aside from the power supply fan) is the endstop switches. :)
~~Update: I raised the amperage of my steppers to 1.1A and started having problems that I suspect may be due to overheating of the TMC2130s. I lowered the current back down and the problems stopped. I'm going to switch to a 12V fan, but drive it through an MP1584EN buck-converter to lower the voltage to keep the fan quiet, but run it a bit faster than the current one.~~
**Update: It turns out that cooling wasn't the problem. I was overdriving the TMC2130s beyond Trinamic's specs (0.96A RMS) based on the (FYSETC) vendor's spec (1.2A RMS). Keeping the amperage under 0.96 solved the problem, even with the underdriven 24V fan. Be sure to have all driver sockets populated to prevent too much air from bypassing the heatsinks!**

Kossel SKR v1.3 mount with quiet ducted cooling

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4088469.

This is a remix of my other [flying extruder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015227). If you're using the stock extruder motor, you want that one instead.
This one was specifically designed for 23mm NEMA17 pancake motors, like the ones from Zyltech.

I'm using a gear-reduced dual-drive (Bondtech BMG clone) extruder, so the stock motor is serious overkill, this one works great.

I designed this so a simple 3mm cap-screw could be used in each of the holes to attach surgical tubing (with a zip tie) going to the carriages. Then I found [these mini-bungie cords at Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-10-in-Mini-Bungee-Cords-Assortment-8-Pack-56052M/307324603), so I made the bungie-loop to mount them. They turned out to be the perfect length.
The position of the holes for the bungies (whatever type you end up using) was as close as I could get to evenly distributing the mass among the 3 carriages. This does make the rear bungie a bit loose (if you use the ones mentioned above), so I simply tied a knot in the cord behind the metal hook to shorten it up (if you see the design of those bungies, this will become obvious). Because of how lightweight this motor is, I may just remove the knot and shorten up the remaining bowden tube even more.
This lightweight assembly doesn't seem to need any counterweight at all, so I've removed the bridge and top attachment points.

After installing this, I dropped my retractions all the way to 2mm. After switching the bowden tube to a 1.9mm ID one, I was able to drop my retractions to 0.4mm!
The cube in the pictures was printed in 3D Solutech See Through Blue PETG. The two things that helped the most were this flying extruder setup and [my corner reinforcements](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015353).

Flying Extruder for Kossel w/23mm NEMA17

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015227.

This is my stab at a flying extruder using the stock motor.
I'm using a gear-reduced dual-drive (Bondtech BMG clone) extruder, so the stock motor is serious overkill. If you have a pancake motor 23mm or less, you'll be more interested in my other [flying extruder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4088469) design.

I originally designed this so a simple 3mm cap-screw could be used in each of the holes to attach surgical tubing (with a zip tie) going to the carriages. Then I found [these mini-bungie cords at Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-10-in-Mini-Bungee-Cords-Assortment-8-Pack-56052M/307324603), so I made the bungie-loop to mount them. They turned out to be the perfect length.
The position of the holes for the bungies (whatever type you end up using) was as close as I could get to evenly distributing the mass among the 3 carriages. This does make the rear bungie a bit loose (if you use the ones mentioned above), so I simply tied a knot in the cord behind the metal hook to shorten it up (if you see the design of those bungies, this will become obvious).
The reason for the row of holes along the diagonal top beam is I wanted a bit of flexibility with a counterweight. I saw someone post elsewhere (sorry, forgot where) about a nice (professional-quality) retractable key-ring that has plenty of pull (made for a huge keyring) called a "KEY-BAK SUPER48". I got the 13oz model since I'm using the heavy stock extruder. I actually haven't installed it yet as the stock motors actually hold this setup when unpowered (which I didn't expect).

------------------

After installing this, I dropped my retractions all the way to 2mm. After switching the bowden tube to a 1.9mm ID one, I was able to drop my retractions to 0.4mm!
The cube in the pictures was printed in 3D Solutech See Through Blue PETG. The two things that helped the most were this flying extruder setup and [my corner reinforcements](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015353).

Flying Extruder for Kossel w/stock motor

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015230.

This is my version of a Raspberry Pi mount for the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus. It will likely fit any printer with 2020 extrusions with a 6mm slot. The Pi sits recessed 1mm from being flush with the outside of the extrusion, so access to the USB & Ethernet ports is simple.
The mount has a protrusion that fits into the extrusion's slot for alignment and a single 5mm (or smaller, with washers) screw for attachment.
I've uploaded two versions. One has holes 1.8mm for M2 screws (they'll cut their own thread if you start slowly with pressure, works best with PETG), the other is for M2.5 screws (with 2.3mm holes). The Raspberry Pi's mounting holes are too small for M3 screws, and when I first designed this, I had no M2.5 screws, hence the M2 version (I'm in the US, so metric screws are typically a mail-order item).

I made this for my conversion of my Linear Plus to run Klipper firmware.
See [thing 4015280](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015280) for an SKR v1.3 mount that I'm using with this (mainly for the simple configuration of TMC2130 drivers).

Kossel Raspberry Pi mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3643870.

I have a bunch of 4020 blowers and found they're quieter than the 4010 fans I have. Plus they tend to flow better when there's a restriction (blowers maintain pressure better than fans).
I couldn't find an adaptor on thingiverse, so I made one.

The part where the blower attaches is from another design I'm planning to upload in the future. The blower slides neatly in place with the mounting tab within a recess and the guides on the opposite side on the inside of the blower. Those guides keep the blower from wiggling (since it's attached by only one screw) and reduces the air leakage from the high pressure side back to the low pressure side of the squirrel cage (at least for the small portion it covers).

If it's noisy when you assemble it, please be sure you don't have over-extrusion on the guides going into the blower. Sand them down if you do to make it smooth and provide clearance. Please also be sure that the blower is pressed onto the adaptor completely.

I uploaded two versions, one with a recess for the head of a 3mm socket head cap screw, the other with a recess for a 3mm nut (in case you want the screw coming through from the other side, this is handy if you have button-head cap screws). Either will allow you to use a 20mm screw. The one in the picture doesn't have the recess, so I had to use a 25mm screw (that's why it's sticking out so far on the other side). I didn't feel like reprinting it after I added the recesses.

Edit: I had the fan mounted with a horizontal axis at first, but rotated it so it had a (near) vertical axis with the intake on top and it seems to have reduced the noise in the room even further. I've uploaded more pictures showing it in both orientations on an Ender 3.

4020 blower to 40mm (4010) fan adaptor

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4015278.

I wanted a very quiet Raspberry Pi 4B case for playing around with it as a desktop, but knew it needed active cooling.
I ordered some 28mm x 28mm x 20m heatsinks and designed this around them.

Design considerations:
* Use a large heatsink so minimal airflow is required. I provide an easy to print alignment tool to ensure the heatsink is properly positioned for the cover to fit.
* Duct the airflow through the heatsink, don't leave proper airflow to chance.
* Duct air in one side and out the opposite to maximize the likelihood of pulling fresh air.
* Squirrel-cage blowers can be much quieter than fans and handle pressure differentials (from restrictions) far better, so I used a 4010 blower.
* The primary source of noise for a blower is the intake, so I wanted the intake fully inside the case, that meant it's going to be used as an extractor.
* The second loudest source of noise from one of these blowers is the backside, where the motor is mounted. Fully enclosing the blower inside the case helps block some of that noise.
* Underdriving a fan or blower is a common way to reduce noise. I'm using a heatsink with a huge surface area, so it doesn't need a tremendous amount of airflow. However, I wanted to run a 12V blower faster than 5V would drive it, so I chose an MT3608 boost converter (Amazon product ID: B07RNBJK5F) to raise the voltage to the blower. This boost converter has no mounting holes, so I made it snap in place.
* External control of the blower speed would be handy so you don't have to take the case apart for an adjustment. I provided a very small hole in the top for you to access the potentiometer with a small screwdriver, adjusting the output voltage.
* Single power source drives both the Pi and the blower. The boost converter is connected to the Pi's power lines for supply voltage.
* Many cases recess the connectors too much for some cables. I made all connectors flush with the outside of this case, with very close clearances and a bevel to accommodate the flared edges of the connectors. Keeping these openings very small is important to force airflow through the heatsink.
* Air that is sucked out of the case by the blower is replaced by air that is ducted through the heatsink to optimize convection.
* The boost converter is actively cooled by a small bypass hole, directly inline with the chip that heats up. Air that flows into that cavity then flows around the coil and into the rest of the case to be sucked out by the blower.
* To be able to use the camera, I provided a thin slot on the end of the cover. It comes up at an angle so should print without issue. I made it thin enough that the amount of airflow through it would be insignificant, while still being large enough that it's easy to slide the camera cable through.
* The microSD card is easily accessible from the outside, with just enough room for it to easily slide in, but not under the Pi's socket. Removal is easy as I provided a relief for a thumbnail or fingernail to grab the ledge that microSD cards have. This small opening also minimizes airflow, although a small amount of airflow across the bottom may be desirable.
* The LEDs provide valuable feedback, especially when shutting down. I provided very tiny filleted holes that allow the LEDs to be easily seen.
* I wanted recessed screws so the heads can't scratch anything. I designed this for flat-head (countersunk) socket-head cap-screws ("allen screws"), M3 for the case, M2 for the blower. The screw holes are sized so the screws cut threads as you drive them into the plastic. The M3 screw holes are 2.8mm diameter and the M2 is 1.8mm diameter. This works very easily with PETG, but requires a little bit more force with PLA (still works fine, you just have to push a little harder). The M2 screws are very short, 3mm, IIRC. The M3 screw holes are fairly deep, so can accommodate a range of lengths.
* I wanted it to be self-aligning, so I added an overlap where the two case parts come together, one fitting inside the other, almost snapping into place (but please use screws).

----------------

I used these 28mm x 28mm x 20mm heatsinks:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32618788162.html
You can use other heatsinks of the same width, the height isn't as important. The important part is that it fills out the duct. If the heatsink is too narrow, too much air can flow around the outside of it, reducing its effectiveness.

I used 3M thermal adhesive padding (sort of like double-sided tape, without the tape) to attach the heatsink:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32794560201.html

I also used a copper shim as a heat-spreader between the heatsink and microcontroller:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32826278552.html
I'm not sure if the shim is providing a benefit or not. The adhesive is extremely sticky, you have one chance to apply it correctly, so I didn't test multiple configurations.

If you don't want to use a boost converter and don't mind the increased volume of a fully driven fan, they do make 5V 4010 blowers:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32998581988.html

--------------------------

In my testing (comparing with a coworker's Pi 4), this case keeps the Pi 4 cooler than the Flirc case can, while still running almost dead silent. I'm glad I finished this before the Flirc was introduced, else I would not have designed it. The advantage of the Flirc over this one is it has no moving parts. This one has the fan. However, this doesn't block wifi signals, and my coworker has found the Flirc definitely attenuates the wifi signal.

--------------------------

Update (2020/01/11): 5V 4010 blowers can be found if you don't want to use the buck-converter and don't mind running the blower at full speed (it will be louder than when underdriven). I'd recommend my approach if you want it to be as quiet as possible.

Quiet Raspberry Pi 4B case with active cooling

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4088582.

Edit 2021/06/28: Please see part 2, the heater block section. There is finally a new one available. :)

Edit 2020/01/20: I just came across Thomas Sanladerer's video review of a hotend very similar to the one I cobbled together for this, so I guess I'm on the right track. :)
The one in his video looks like it has significantly different dimensions, but the same basic design. It's from a company called Deltaprintr. I like what I put together better as it uses standard threads for the nozzle, and has a variety of nozzles available.

-------------------

**TL;DR:** This knocked 51g off the effector. I was able to print 400mm/s with fairly nice results (very minimal ringing) using TMC2130 drivers ([plus my other modifications](https://www.thingiverse.com/glabifrons/collections/glabifronss-anycubic-kossel-mods)) with this hotend using Klipper firmware. The limit turned out to be the TMC2130 drivers, as I ran into problems when I raised the current past 0.9A (the chip has a design-limit of 0.96A). I've since switched to TMC2208 drivers so I can raise the current further, but I've not yet run any more speed runs. I may upload a video later.

-------------------

I wanted to try a combination of parts I had in my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus, but it doesn't look like anyone else has put this combination together, so I made my own mount for it.

This uses the following parts:
1. Heatsink & heatbreak from Trianglelab.
It doesn't have a name, sadly, as I'd like to be able to refer to it by name. It's the external dimensions of the heatsink used in the Ender 3, but with fewer/thicker fins and a heatbreak closer to that of a MicroSwiss.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000083295807.html
2. Heatblock, heater, & nozzle from Trianglelab.
This also needs a name. It's miniscule and not much more than a piece of threaded aluminum tube with a cylindrical heater wrapped around it. If it's currently listed as "unavailable", check back. I asked them about this and they said they were improving the design and would be bringing it back soon.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32697889176.html
Thanks to RockerX4 for the comment pointing me to another source for what appears to be the exact same hotend (even uses the same pictures).
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32828646261.html
**Update: I've been going back and forth with Trianglelab since they pulled the original heater block I used and they seem *extremely* confused (being very kind here). After changing their answer numerous times, they said they will not be making a replacement. Today I found this (which looks like an updated version of the same thing): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002781227348.html
One big difference is the new one is listed as "copper" (although it's obviously brass) so will be a bit heavier than the older aluminum version. If anyone has a lathe, it should be ultra-simple to make the block out of aluminum.**
3. 3010 fan driven at 80% to reduce noise.
4. Various hardware, including 2x M3 nuts (pressed in the part cooler side), some longer M2.5 screws to mount the fan duct, and the rest (I think) were stock. I may have used screws 1-2mm shorter for the part cooler blower, but I'm not sure (I've been running this for a couple weeks now, haven't had to modify anything).

Note that this combination does lower the nozzle by a few millimeters, this is intentional (see below). Spacers are provided for moving your favorite part cooler duct down by 2.5mm or 3mm.


Ultra-compact ultra-light hotend for Anycubic Kossel

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4946616.

I wanted to use a 4010 blower instead of a larger fan for the inside of my FilaDryer as it doesn't need a huge amount of airflow, just a bit of circulation. I also wanted it quiet, and these are typically quieter than axial fans, but I wanted it even quieter, so I made a mount designed to be printed in TPU/TPE.

The bottom of the fan is angled so it circulates air circularly (is that redundant?) down across the heater plate and back across the top. When it's on, you can feel the air coming up as soon as you open the lid (whether the heater is on or not).

Inserting the fan is super easy, just flex the side out and slide it in. The TPU/TPE will spring back and grip it.

I printed this with 0.16mm layer height (standard 0.4mm nozzle) in some Inland TPE that I bought years ago. I used 2 walls, 10% grid infill (IIRC), with support interfaces enabled and the interface angle set to 50 degrees. Cura throws down two unneeded short lines on the bed that can be ignored and a tiny amount of support in the slots for the fan. This support is easily removed with hemostats or needle-nose pliers. 
Don't use too many walls or any more infill or you'll reduce any effectiveness this has towards sound isolation.

I may remix this to add  a spot for a MP1584EN adjustable voltage reducer to slow the fan down a bit to make it even quieter. Please say something if you have any interest.

These are the instructions I used to wire in my fan:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FG4O5l9XpE

Note that there is a labeled point on the board for a fan connector, but the mosfet, resistors, and protection diode are all missing. I don't know if the firmware will actually try and control it or not, but I'm interested if anyone can identify the missing mosfet. The resistors and diode on the other mosfet can be identified, but the other mosfet is huge and cannot be used in the fan position so I can't just buy another one of those). It would be very nice if the fan could be controlled by the firmware and not always-on.

Please let me know if this works with any other brands/models and I'll add them to the title to make this easier to find.

Sunlu/Jayo FilaDryer S1 filament dryer 4010 blower fan mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3120924.

Two Monoprice Select Mini bed mounts for sneaks's very nice "Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3". One is vertical and one is horizontal.

I used this on a V2, but it should work on a later model V1 as long as it has the pairs of holes in the bed (I understand the bed mount changed at least once during the V1 runs).

WARNING: Use a regular nut and screw for the link attached to the horizontal bed mount, else the knurled nut will impact the body of the printer when it attempts to home Y.
The vertical one shouldn't have this issue.

Monoprice Select Mini bed mount for Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4924948.

Update 2021-09-18:
I added a version with a flexible cutout so you can push the button without sliding open the case. *Note that I printed mine in PETG. Please let me know how well the button relief works in PLA.* If needed, I can narrow the connection and/or extend it to make it more flexible.
I also added a version with a hole to make the LED visible, in case you don't print with a translucent filament like I did.
Lastly, I added a version with both the button relief and an LED hole.
All lids are interchangeable, so if you've already printed one, you just need to print a new lid if you'd like to switch.

If you want one with a hole for accessing the button (so you can't accidentally press it), see the remix by pd2000_1. He also added a hole for the LED. :) His work inspired me to make this update.

------------------

I wanted a compact and simple case for a Raspberry Pi Pico that I'm using as a portable resonance test interface for Klipper for doing input shaper calibration.

Connected to the Pico is an ADXL345 using a 6 wire ribbon cable.
I created a pass-through for this cable into the case.
The case is designed to print quickly and without support. I'm using 0.16mm layer height and it turned out fairly nice IMO.
The case snaps together easily and fits snugly, but can be opened up without damage if needed (only tested in PETG).

Instructions for getting the Pico working with Klipper for resonance compensation testing:
https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/owqvo2/raspberry_pi_pico_as_a_secondary_mcu_for/

Raspberry Pi Pico snap-together case with slot for 6-wire ribbon cable

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967836.

This part replaces the fragile stock disk inserts for the swivel points of a 16" Rand McNally globe (the kind usually seen in schools).  I couldn't get the axle pins out without doing significant damage, so I split it in half and it worked great. (photos are of top and bottom)

Rand McNally 16" globe replacement swivel inserts

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3947324.

This thing is a mount for the FYSETC 12864Mini LCD, to mount it to the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus.
This should work on any delta printer made with 2020 extrusions set 20mm apart with a 6mm slot (typically 6.15mm+).
Use a pair of M5 button-head screws to mount it using a nut type of choice for your extrusion. Smaller screws will work with washers as the mount has guides to align it tightly with the extrusions.
The display drops in easily, but fits snugly (very little play) if your printer is well dialed in.
Use M3 button-head screws to secure the display in place (if you wish, may not be necessary). The holes are 2.8mm, so an M3 screw should form threads in it as you screw it in (be slow and deliberate, it will form threads). PETG works very easily. PLA requires a little more effort, but will cut threads into it if you use a bit of pressure and are steady.
The cover is designed to snap onto the base of the mount.


FYSETC 12864Mini V2.1 B mount w/snap-on faceplate for Kossel Delta

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4917258.

These hygrometer/thermometers are super cheap on Amazon. I wanted to be able to view one on the outside windowsill from inside the house, but I couldn't get the angle the way I wanted.
I designed this to solve that problem.

It's ventilated to ensure an accurate reading, and holds the LCD at a 45 degree angle.

If your printer has decent part cooling and can bridge well, you won't need supports.
If it doesn't, the support should be minimal with only a single support line under the top of the main opening. Hint: set your "Support Overhang Angle" to over 45 degrees. You may need to use support blockers for the side openings, but they should print well with a low layer height.
I used 0.16mm for mine and they came out great with no supports at all.


These are the ones I bought. Many vendors sell them. They also come in centigrade/Celsius for those of you not using barbarian units. :^)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PVLF8LD

Hygrometer/thermometer housing/stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4077476.

This is not the common 5015 blower. This is a 5020 blower (squirrel-cage radial fan) with dual intakes and a much bigger outlet that is significantly quieter than the 5015 blowers.

I've been using this in some custom designs and needed the model for FreeCAD.
I'm uploading the STL as I think it's required to publish a part, and including a STEP file which should work for any CAD package in case anyone else finds this useful.

I couldn't find a decent model of this on any site, so decided to model it, myself. I got carried away and made it more detailed than needed.
The biggest problem was figuring out what dimensions were accurate for the mounting hole location and orientation, as I found many conflicting and incomplete drawings online. I took many measurements directly and compared those to narrow down the field. I finally printed a 1mm slice of it and laid it up against my fan and it's a near perfect match.


5020 50mm x 20mm blower with dual intakes

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4317364.

If your soap gets soft and gooey in your soap-dishes, this may help.
I designed it to not only drain the water dripping off the soap directly back into the sink, but also allow airflow all around the soap to quickly dry it. The longer water stays on the soap, the deeper it soaks in and softens the soap.

I've been using this for a month now and it has worked out great.

The file named soapdish2.stl has 45 degree angles and prints with no infill and no supports with the drain spout pointing up (print it on its back).
The only requirement is that your printer has adequate cooling to print a 45 degree overhang and bridge a ~12mm gap (should be easy). Use two walls in your slicer. I printed it at 0.16mm layer height. If you want the part that comes into contact with the soap extra smooth, print at ~0.08mm or less (based on your printer's "magic number").

If your printer is exceptionally good at printing overhangs, soapdish.stl has rounded corners, in case  you prefer that look to the angles. The same as above applies, print it with the drain-spout at the top and use no supports.


Goo-less soap dish

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4917242.

My wife loves La Fermiere yogurt, so we're constantly throwing out the small ceramic jars they come in. I used a few for planters, but we've not found a lot of uses for them. We occasionally use one for a container for something, but that necessitated a lid.

So I designed one. :^)

I actually designed this back in February 2020, but I never thought to upload it until now.
I printed it in a flexible (TPE or TPU, don't remember, but I think it came from Microcenter) and it came out perfectly. It fits very snugly, seals well, and looks nice (personal opinion, of course).

Print with 3 walls and you won't need infill.
I personally like setting the bottom initial layer and the top surface skin (experimental setting) to concentric with the "top/bottom" setting to "lines" (default) in Cura.

La Fermiere ceramic yogurt container lid (tight seal)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094231.

This itty-bitty super fast print makes it incredibly simple to assemble Traxxas style heim-joints/balljoints/rod-ends/whatever you want to call them.

All you need to do is press an M3 nut into the recess and use an M3 bolt through the ball, then the joint, then this tool into the nut. Anything 18mm or longer will work. It takes almost zero effort to press the balls into the joints with this tool, and it's very quick to take back apart and set up the next one.

I hope this helps someone. :)

I uploaded a picture taken from FreeCAD so you can see what it looks like, as it seems Thingiverse is having trouble rendering the STL (too small?).

Also, FWIW: I wouldn't bother with the Traxxas style press-in joints from Aliexpress for a delta-printer. Far too much play. They were cheap and I thought I'd try 'em. I may find some non-3D printer related project that needs them.

Ultra-quick mini-balljoint press (Traxxas style rod-ends)

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