Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5322750.

This all started cause I didn't like how the E5+ has a moving bed.  I started filming time-lapse videos and in my opinion it doesn't look as good when the model is moving.  Another thing is I wanted my lithophanes look better.  With a moving bed in the z or even the y axis would transfer the vibrations into the model.  Now the panel will stay still while printing and filming.  

While planing this conversion there were 2 must-haves in the design. 1-It has to have a static bed.  2-I have to use as much parts that came with the printer as possible.  KEEP IT CHEAP!  If you downloaded and built my other corexy conversion for the E5+ (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5194386) then you will use everything that you already purchased for that.  With the exception of a few additional parts.

Lets start with you parts you will need - 
(3x) 405mm Linear Rails - https://tinyurl.com/bdzbh7ex
Idler pulleys (20 tooth) -  https://tinyurl.com/2p884ebw
Idler pulleys (smooth) - https://tinyurl.com/3psytbc7
GT2 belt - https://tinyurl.com/2wv6zey3
Stepper motor gear (20 tooth) - https://tinyurl.com/3tmjct2y 
2020 Extrusions - https://tinyurl.com/2p8u8fdd - 2 cut at 463mm and 2 cut at 547mm
Stepper motor 42-40 - https://tinyurl.com/4upu4dws - only 1 cause you already have 1
M3 screws assortment - https://tinyurl.com/yc3ykdbe
M5 screws 20-40mm - https://tinyurl.com/f745f39n
M5 screws 10mm - https://tinyurl.com/yjpr8uuj
M5 screws 12mm - https://tinyurl.com/2w7xjb6k
M5 Tnuts - https://tinyurl.com/5dy3dphr
M5 tap - https://tinyurl.com/2p83h9nd
1kg of ABS of your choice

Optional parts to upgrade - 
Stepper motors - https://tinyurl.com/kxrd2ae2
Idlers - https://tinyurl.com/b362f7mh

Now lets build - 
1) Dismantle everything on the top of the printer
2) Remove the bed from the linear motion assembly
3) Remove both side linear motion assemblies
4) Remove both upper 2020 extrusions from both linear assemblies and save one of them.  That will be your rear 2020 extrusion on the gantry.  Keep the lower 2020 extrusions together.
5) Mount the linear assemblies outside the printer frame.  The lower 2020 of the assemblies that you kept together sit on top of the bottom side 2020 of the frame.  Loosely mount it using the corner brackets that you print.
6) Now loosely mount the top of all 4 linear rods to the frame.  The whole assembly will be adjusted later.
7) Loosely mount 2 2020 extrusions cut to 547mm to the bottom of the frame with 4 corner brackets. 
8) Mount the bed assembly to the 2020 extrusions you just added with the 4  factory M4 bolts and Tnuts that you removed form the top.
9) Use the photos above to put together the gantry with the 2 2020 463mm that you cut and tapped with the M5 threads.

Please message me for any questions you have...


affiliate links above

Ender 5 Plus Corexy Conversion W/ Static Bed (Voron2 Style)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5313758.

This is a lithophane LED box that I designed so that you were not suck with one picture to use.  You swap out the lithophane panel whenever you want.  You don't have to be an electrician to wire this box.  It's just a simple 12v LED panel with a 12v power supply and a rocker switch.  Just follow the diagram in the first picture.  

As for the lithophane panel, all you have to do is go to https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ and create one.  For it to fix in the box you have to follow a few easy steps.  Take. any picture of your liking and crop it into a square.  It doesn't matter the size of the photo cause the software will make it to your settings.  Now that you have your square photo uploaded to the site, go to the settings tab on the top and change your Model Settings and Image Settings to the ones I have in the pictures.  Now you and download the stl and print it.  Almost any white PLA (or even PETG) will do but I prefer a very specific one from ESUNPLA+(link below).  It will give you a better looking image that doesn't look like and old western photo.  Or maybe that's what you're looking for.

When printing the lithophane you HAVE to make sure to stand the model upright and use a brim.  The brim should be 8mm or bigger.  Your first layer is key to a successful print.   Layer height should be between 0.12-0.18 and keep your speeds low. 40mm/s or lower is good speeds.  Infill is set to 100% or just set you perimeters to 20.  I prefer using only perimeters cause infill will have a lot of back and forth movement.  You can use a .4mm nozzle and have a nice print but the smaller the better.  Turn supports off.    

Parts needed - 
LED panel - https://tinyurl.com/kzc63jr5
12v DC power supply - https://tinyurl.com/2wtcaw5x
Rocker Switch - https://tinyurl.com/2bsxy9ea
Lithophane filament ESUNPLA+ - https://tinyurl.com/mshjjws3


affiliate links above

Lithophane LED Box w/ swappable panels

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5194386.

This is a corexy conversion for an Ender 5 Plus printer. ABS is best but PETG works too.  I made this in Fusion360. You need 3 linear rails MGN12H at 450mm, 12 idlers with a 5mm bore, I got the 10m roll of GT2 6mm belt and a bunch of 3mm and 5mm nuts and bolts. In the CAD picture you will see the idler diagram.  Each idler has a 5mm washer on the top and bottom of it.  Red is toothed and black is smooth. The best part of this is you don't use a 2020 extrusion for the x axis.  I made it like this to get rid of as much weight as possible for faster movement.  Be sure to download and print the Z axis linear rod mounts to delete the 2020 extrusion for extra space.  Hope you guys like it... 

Parts I purchased:
GT2 toothed idlers - https://tinyurl.com/mu66zadf
GT2 smooth idlers - https://tinyurl.com/yea4p447
GT2 20 tooth pulley - https://tinyurl.com/2p9c2nrw
GT2 timing belt - https://tinyurl.com/4zxe5r2p
450mm linear rails (x3) - https://tinyurl.com/255u2rwn
Steppers I used are the ones that came with my printers
These are the ones I'm using - https://tinyurl.com/2p8dxe83

Parts you should have:
3mm screws/nuts/washers - https://tinyurl.com/mr2xj5wz
5mm screws/nuts/washers - https://tinyurl.com/ysyn5ad7
3mm T-nut - https://tinyurl.com/y2ft26ep
5mm T-nut - https://tinyurl.com/4wpjujr8


amazon affiliate links above

Ender 5 Plus Corexy Conversion 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5279692.

This is an iPhone 13 case made with TPU.  It may look a little bulky but it protects your phone extremely well.  I have been using this case for about 4 months now and I dropped my phone a couple times.  Once from a height of about 4 feet right on the concrete.  I was surprised to see it just bounce.  The sides protecting the screen is a little high but your screen is safer because of it.  An added benefit is the phone stands on its side all by itself.  No need for a stand.

Fillament used - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0991R9427/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_glt_i_8XBB209BV694C6RAHHKJ?psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=brynamba-20

Affiliate link above


iPhone 13 case (tpu)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5296389.

This is a mount for a BIQU H2 on my corexy conversion with MGN12H linear rails. I made for the Ender5Plus. The fan section has a mount that adds extra support from twisting and has the BLTouch mount directly on it.  Make sure to use button head and not socket cap M3 screws so it will sit flat to the mount.  Here is the link to the conversion if you are interested - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5194386 

Coming soon a part cooling duct for the 120mm fan...

BIQU H2 - https://tinyurl.com/2p88seer
BLTouch - https://tinyurl.com/mckn8c83
MGN12H 450mm - https://tinyurl.com/2s4d8jmb
M3 screws kit - https://tinyurl.com/2p9xvz3c

affiliate links above

BIQU H2 extruder mount for an MGN12H linear rail

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5318362.

This is a simple LED mount to light up your print bed without having to mess with firmware or messing with your mainboard.  You don't even need your printer to be on to light up your print bed.  If you just want a light that works when you flip a switch then here you go.  I designed two different electronics boxes so it can be mounted on a lot of different printers.  If you have an open 2040 or 4040 face then this will fit.  I made these for my ENDER5+ and ENDER3V2.  The only thing different with the two boxes are the side the mount is on.  If you want multiple lights, you still only need one switch box.  Just run all your lights is parallel.  Also the arms can be mounted directly to the extrusion.  The pivot screws need a M3x30mm.

Parts you need -
LED panel - https://tinyurl.com/kzc63jr5
12v DC power supply - https://tinyurl.com/2wtcaw5x
Rocker Switch - https://tinyurl.com/2bsxy9ea
M3 screws kit - https://tinyurl.com/2p9xvz3c
3mm T-nut - https://tinyurl.com/y2ft26ep


affiliate links above.

Printer LED Light

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