A remix for 3D Printing World's Curved Katana model (https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Collapsing%2520Katana%2520with%2520Curved%2520Blade-48843) - A Katana is supposed to be a two-handed sword and the original handle was way too short.

THIS is ONLY the revised handle, for all the other parts please refer to the original creator's page (and follow his printing advice to ensure a successful print).

If you want to incorporate color / filament change as in the picture, the heights are 7,6mm for the lower and 238,2mm for the upper change.

CurvedKatanaLongHandle.stl

A remix for 3D Printing World's Curved Katana model (https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Collapsing%2520Katana%2520with%2520Curved%2520Blade-48843) - A Katana is supposed to be a two-handed sword and the original handle was way too short.

THIS is ONLY the revised handle, for all the other parts please refer to the original creator's page (and follow his printing advice to ensure a successful print).

Need to attach a light, microphone or whatever to your camera, camera grip or other accessory - only to find yourself with a cold shoe on one end and a 1/4" thread on the other? Here's to the rescue, a cold shoe mount!
Helpful too in these not so rare cases when you know you should have one but can't find it. BTDT.

Prints in the orientation as-is, infill 15% recommended for the thumb screw, no supports needed. Prints fine in PLA or any material of your choice.

Cold Shoe Mount

ColdShoeMount.stl

When you have one of these small but versatile domestic ultrasonic cleaners you may have noticed that a lot of them come without any basket or container to place your items in. 
This model is to the rescue. It is taylor made to fit a Fysic FC-18 (sold under various names and brands), step file included for all your adaptation needs.

The model prints in place without supports, but beware, the hinges are designed with extreme close tolerances (0.2mm max). If your printer can't handle such tolerances or your part cooling is not up to task to cope with the overhangs you may want to adapt the model and/or use supports.

Basket insert for ultrasonic cleaner

UltrasonicInsertBasket.stl

One of these indispensable life hacks ... when printing with embedded magnets you will experience that for a few layers upon insertion every time the CR Touch passes the magnet the probe is getting sucked out onto the print. Depending on your print either the probe might get damaged or the print - or both. This cap prevents just that. 

BTW it is recommended to use a coated steel print bed - this way the magnets certainly will not pull out of the print on the first passage right after insertion (which may happen with a glass bed and a loose magnet fit)

Needless for a BL Touch since this probe is plastic. 

CRTouchCover

One of these indispensable life hacks ... when printing with embedded magnets you will experience that for a few layers upon insertion every time the CR Touch passes the magnet the probe is getting sucked out onto the print. Depending on your print either the probe might get damaged or the print - or both. This cap prevents just that. 
Needless for a BL Touch since this probe is plastic. 

This model is a mashup of two of my favorite hotend/part cooling solutions for my Ender 3v2. The basis is Victor Bared's Minimalist hot end shroud (https://youtu.be/TJxpiLG73dM), reconstructed and modified; and Whistleblower's 5015 part cooler (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4666359k).

The combination offers a compact and efficient replacement for the stock solution and provides good and reliable part cooling. Plus it is possible to do almost any hotend maintenance without removing the cover, nozzle swaps are easy with everything left in place. 
Blower fans are just slotting in and, when using the "for optics" cover, don't need any additional fixture screws.

It is strongly recommended to print in ABS (or, in my case, Extrudr Green-Tec Pro) to avoid heat damage over time - due to the compactness vast parts of the model are very near to the heater block!
Normal PLA is a definite No-Go, PETG may last a while but requires frequent replacing. 

Edit 22-10-22: added a model with fixing holes 1mm up = cooling ducts 1mm down

Ender 3 v2 minimalistic hotend cover + dual 4010 blower part cooler

MiniHotendCover+Airguide.stl

MiniHotendCover_1mmLower.stl

Yet another ... here are some replacement grips for our beloved flush cutters. 
The model is quite ergonomic, it prints nicely in 95A TPU, 3 walls, no infill.

Make sure you print the grips upright standing on the opening - otherwise you will need supports (which may be a real PITA to remove) or run into bridge issues.
Enjoy!

FlushCutter replacement grips

FlushCutterGrips.stl

A replacement for the Thule Wing Bar rubber profile which might come loose and lost when driving at higher speeds.

The model is just updated to slide in easier, the standard length is just about 10cm so you need some to fully cover your bars.

Prints nicely in TPU95A standing upright with no supports, I recommend you use LostInTech's fine TPU cura profile (https://www.lostintech.co.uk/profiles/) to slice this particular model.
Prints with 3 perimeters, no infill.

For best results print one at a time - multiples may lead to some unwanted stringing where you least expect it. 

Thule WingBar Profile

A replacement for the Thule Wing Bar rubber profile which might come loose and lost when driving at higher speeds.

The model is just updated to slide in easier, the standard length is just about 10cm so you need some to fully cover your bars.

Prints nicely in TPU95A standing upright with no supports, I recommend you use LostInTech's fine TPU cura profile (https://www.lostintech.co.uk/profiles/) to slice this particular model

If you own a Toyota RAV4 (5th model, 2019 onwards) and feel the need to mount anything to your dashboard, look no further:
Here's a simple no-tools-needed mounting clamp that slides nicely around the dash cushions just under the side air vents and is strong enough for your everyday phone, garage door remote, picture frame - whatever.
 
The clamp installs on the car, the mounting plate clicks on to the clamp - bingo!
If you feel it is too thin, scale it - sideways only, since otherwise it won't fit any more. You knew this, didn't you?

But ... wait ... just how do I ... ??? 
Easy: Since you're here you're into making things - good! Just design a custom case for whatever you want to mount,  marry this case with the mount plate (in any 3D software that handles .stl or .step files) and you're done.

Mounting: 
Mount from below, i.e. hook the 90° side of the clamp between cushion and dash body, then push on the upper part until it snaps between cushion and vent frame and you're done.

Printing: use PETG since in cars you might expect higher temperatures than what PLA could handle. Print the clamp lying on the side to ensure strength due to the layers nicely go along the clamp to carry the load and not to worry about layers becoming detached - they won't. As for "your" case / hook / whatnot - print in a direction that covers for the forces the case has to take up.

**Update** : If you rather rely on screws than click solutions there's new parts for standard M3 screws and nut, both .stl and .step

AirVentBracket for Toyota RAV4 (2019+)

If you own a Toyota RAV4 (5th model, 2019 onwards) and feel the need to mount anything to your dashboard, look no further:
Here's a simple no-tools-needed mounting clamp that slides nicely around the dash cushions just under the side air vents and is strong enough for your everyday phone, garage door remote, picture frame - whatever.
 
The clamp installs on the car, the mounting plate clicks on to the clamp - bingo!
If you feel it is too thin, scale it - sideways only, since otherwise it won't fit any more. You knew this, didn't you?

But ... wait ... just how do I ... ??? 
Easy: Since you're here you're into making things - good! Just design a custom case for whatever you want to mount,  marry this case with the mount plate (in any 3D software that handles .stl or .step files) and you're done.

Mounting: 
Mount from below, i.e. hook the 90° side of the clamp between cushion and dash body, then push on the upper part until it snaps between cushion and vent frame and you're done.

Printing: use PETG since in cars you might expect higher temperatures than what PLA could handle. Print the clamp lying on the side to ensure strength due to the layers nicely go along the clamp to carry the load and not to worry about layers becoming detached - they won't. As for "your" case / hook / whatnot - print in a direction that covers for the forces the case has to take up.

AirVentBracket-1.5mm.stl

MountingPlate_screwfit_M3.stl

AirVentBracket_screwfit_M3.stl

MountingPlate_screwfit_M3.step

AirVentBracket_screwfit_M3.step

Just a quick'n'dirty transport case for EN-EL23 batteries (used in some Nikon Coolpix models).

EN-EL23Case.stl

A bracket to fasten the fantastic RAZPro bicycle tail light to your saddle. As is zip ties are intended for that purpose, but they can be  severed too fast, plus fastening the light with zip ties is a very shaky solution.  

Print as oriented, there are sacrificial layers designed into the screw holes. My bracket goes together with the original saddle mount, you need two 3x20 bolts plus nuts (press fit into the hex holes), the bolts fit through two holes in the original mount, providing a very secure fit. 

PETG recommended, no supports. 

RAZPro_SaddleBracket.stl

A bracket to fasten the fantastic RAZPro bicycle tail light to your saddle. As is zip ties are intended for that purpose, but they can be  severed too fast, plus fastening the light with zip ties is a very shaky solution.  

Print as oriented, there are sacrificial layers designed into the screw holes. My bracket goes together with the original saddle mount, you need two 3x20 bolts plus nuts (press fit into the hex holes), the bolts fit through two holes in the original mount, providing a very secure fit. 

This is a contact carrier to replace a broken original one inside the ignition lock of an ancient Yamaha XT500 motorbike.
Yes, complete replacement locks are available at around 30€, but - hey, we're makers, so we make 😄 

Prints best upside down, needs supports. PETG recommended. Doesn't win any beauty price but is highly functional. 

XT500_IgnitionLock_ContactCarrier

This is a contact carrier to replace a broken original one inside the ignition lock of an ancient Yamaha XT500 motorbike.
Yes, complete replacement locks are available at arount 30E, but - hey, we're makers, so we make 😄 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5318024.

This is a holder for a bluetooth remote for print timelapse videos.

Some do Octoprint, some don't - I belong to the latter so I needed an alternative, Bluetooth remotes are not exactly a dime a dozen but fairly cheap anyways - for this project I harvested a Hama BRS3 (sells widely for around 10€) and added a standard micro switch soldered to the BT actuator button (see picture).

The holder is constructed so that it easily bolts on the X rail with a 10mm M4 screw plus T-nut; if/when you download my cable strain relief provided (in the files) you will see that it incorporates a trigger that activates the BTSwitch at X245.

If you use a cover on the slot of the x belt tensioner housing you might want to use mine (provided) as the switch case slightly protrudes over the "hole" in the tensioner housing and other covers do not fit anymore.

All prints without supports, maybe you need a brim, maybe you don't.

For timelapse gcode, there's a plugin for cura (two actually), for Prusa Slicer there's instructions found onthe internet on which code to add where in the slicer settings.

And - if you want to use a different BT remote with a different dimension PCB, feel free to play around with the step files provided.

Want to see it in operation? Head over to youtube: https://youtu.be/HmZ_PsGQPUY

Enjoy!

Ender3 v2 BT-Remote Switch for print timelapse video

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5271566.

A lanyard loop threading into a standard 1/4" tripod mount.
Secure your camera or phone gimbal to your wrist when in use or attach a shoulder strap.

Works just great with Paracord (coreless for flexibility).

Prints flat without supports, PETG preferred for strength, infill >25% 

Update: added two spacer disks to cover the unsightly gaps in the thread hole

Update 2: added parts for 3/8" thread, handy for some tripods lower main column thread to attach a weight, or carry it upside-down


Tripod mount Lanyard loop

Spacer_disk_8mm.stl

Spacer_disk_10mm.stl

3-8_10mmLoop.stl

3-8_disk.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5239845.

When I tried the original model "for size" I found two issues - one, the filament path was off a few mm, two, my BMG all metal clone wouldn't fit because the filament guidance channel had no place to go (that black round thingy provided to screw a PTFE retainer in). I couldn't leave it off 'cause without it the PTFE would not have any guidance at all on the upper end, which is bad. 

So here's my remix of asd913's remix adressing the issues. 
Changes to the original model:
- made room for the filament guide
- changed the form of the extruder back plate to allow full opening of the extruder lever
- somewhat thinned the bottom plate
- provided a cutout so that the stepper motor cable can insert from the bottom, 
  for cleaner looks and better cable management
- added some zip tie holes in the back support to neatly tie all hotend wiring behind the extruder plate. 

Prints nice without any supports when you orient the model as indicated by the arrow in the picture, a raft might be needed depending on just how good your printer is dialed in. 

For future remixes of the remixed remix the .step file is included

Update: added a version with a trigger for my BTRemoteSwitch

Ender3v2 BMG direct drive adapter (Drivinator Remix)

BMG-DD-Adapter_Trigger.stl

Just another Retro Rocket Piggy Bank - the concept makes it a remix (from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:689004 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2714573) but it is an original design from scratch. Anyways. 

Different from the orignal designs the closure went to where it belongs (bottom), plus I added some decorative rivets along the rocket body and some additional jets on the tail fins - mainly to give it some surface to stand on while printing.

The Lid (two variations) prints without supports, the rocket body however needs some - but remember to put a support block on the nose and well beneath, otherwise you end up with supports inside the rocket body - and you do not want that.

The model prints just over 20 cm high, to the delight of the future owner of your model the coin slot will accept Swiss 5-Franc coins (and, of course, bills ...)

Enjoy

Retro Rocket Piggy Bank

RetroRocketPiggybank_Rocket.stl

Here's yet another Buck converter / voltage regulator case. The one I've got is a display type unit with only one set button.

The case is custom fit for this particular converter and comes in different tastes - whatever you like best: There are ventilated and plain versions, one uses 3x20 hex screws with a cylindrical head, the other needs 3x25 screws with a countersunk head.

If you want to attach the case to your printer frame using the extrusion slots, there is a frame mount stl which, when modeled into the case will mount the converter face up, either right or left. It is a separate file - if you want to use it just import both case and frame mount into your slicer, make sure all models will drop on to the build plate! If you want to alter the orientation of the mount, just turn it 180°. There is a one-layer flap protruding on one side, I had to model that into the frame mount to ensure it will stay in position when turned (otherwise the center would have shifted).
There is a version of the base with slot mounts (4mm holes for T-nuts), depending on what extrusion you chose to mount it to the display may end up sideways, if that is what you want, there you are.

If you like what you see but need an adaptation, STEP files of all parts are available on Thingiverse (no .zip allowed here ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5158164) for all your tinkering needs, enjoy.

Buck Converter Case, yet another

BuckConverterCase_Case_M3x20_HexCylinder_Vents.stl

Here's a honeycomb attachment fitting Doerr Photo video lights SVL180 and 112 for anyone who hasn't got one or lost the one coming with his light.

Prints in just under 6 hrs, PETG recommended, no supports needed

Honeycomb attachment for Doerr photo lights SVL 180 and 112

Here's a honeycom attachemnt fitting Doerr Photp photo/video lighhts SVL180 and 112 for anyone who hasn't got one or lost the one coming with his light.

We've been all there I guess - you own a fancy Samsonite (or other brand) cabin trolley and over the years the wheels wear out. How do you notice? Well, you hear it ... trust me, you will.
Now there are two (three, actually) solutions to this - one, go to the manufacturer's web site and look for a replacement. Bad luck if you're out of warranty or if your particular luggage (baggage?) is discontinued. Two - go to the next sports store and get yourself some inline skate wheels with a fitting outer diameter (and a 8mm axle, most luggage rollers run on 8mm axles). These are easy solutions, but, hey!, easy is for sissies, we are makers, are we?
So here is a replacement wheel (not the actual wheel, just the "tire") for you to fiddle around with - 78mm diameter preconfigured, but a .STEP file is included to adapt to your needs.

There's a sacrificial layer designed into the model, so no supports are needed.

TPU recommended (we want our luggage to run quiet again).

Word of warning: you will need a vice of sorts to fit the "tires" on to the skeleton wheel. Once they're on, they're on for good (until they wear out again, that is - but then you're covered 'cause now you kow the secret how to replace them)

Replacement Wheel for Samsonite Cabin Trolley

TrolleyWheel-78mm-v5.stl

This is an universal fit trigger lock for Dyson handheld vacuums to keep the unit operational without the need to keep a finger on the trigger.

Should fit any Dyson handheld vacuum, certainly fits the V10 ('cause I designed it for mine).

Works right and left handed, just flip it 180° and you're good to go.
Store on the handle when you do not need it.

Extremely simple one piece, no frill design - amazing apparently no one came up with something like it here on Thangs (neither on Thingiverse).

Update:
added v2 model, with a small back ridge to make it a bit "springier" (and a v3 model if you experience overhang issues).


Dyson Trigger Lock

DysonTriggerLock

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4786689.

This is a special "thing" to solve a very special problem, so it certainly is not for anyone. 

What was the problem? When (or if) you own a new Toyota RAV4 (2019 onwards) you may find the need for some electricity somewhere, in my case I needed a connection for a glove box light. Now there are wire tap connectors around that simply plug in to the fuse box, either in an empty slot or as a shared slot with an existing fuse. Unfortunately these connectors add to the height of the fuses so the original cover (which at the same time is the indicator for the fuse allocation) does no longer fit.

In comes my thing - an adapter to go between the fuse carrier and the cover, enabling to use a wire tap connector and cleaning up everything just nicely afterwards.

The design is two-part in order to print without supports, glue it together with some superglue (strength is not an issue, there is no stress whatsoever on this part). 

Update: If you want to print this in PETG which is notoriously difficult to glue I uploaded a revised model using clips instead (download ... noglue.zip)


Fuse carrier adapter for Toyoty RAV4 Hybrid (from 2019)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5019081.

This is a coffee container extension for "Finessa" coffee machines (MioStar, Koenig, Turmix, etc., Tchibo Esperto Caffe)

Above mentioned coffee machines are widely popular for their low footprint, requiring only minimal space in the kitchen. However, their coffee container is limited to just around 200 g coffee beans - which required frequent refills, especially if you drink a lot coffee in the course of a day.

Some machines actually do come with a coffee container extension, but I have been unable to locate it as an accessory or replacement part, therefore I decided to build my own. Here's my approach to this "problem" - a coffee container extennsion that allows you to keep 500g coffee beans right on top of your machine, ready to be freshly grinded and converted into just the coffee you like.

Coffee container extension for "Finessa" coffee machines (MioStar, Koenig, Turmix, etc., Tchibo Esperto Caffe)

coffe_bean_container.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4961316.

An oil funnel for the BMW chopper models R1200C and R850C. 

The motor oil filling cap is situated on top of the left cylinder just "under" the chrome cylinder head. It is just 1.5 cm wide, making it quite hard to top up motor oil with the usual built-in extensions on oil cans as sold ... you do not really want to spill motor oil over your Chromehead (these models go under that name, too). 

This custom funnel mimicks the oil filler cap making it a perfect fit, the funnel is angled forward, making it easier to use especially if you have crash bars installed. 

Oil funnel for BMW R 850 / 1200 C

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4923960.

My bicycle is fitted with a Tubus Fly Evo luggage rack - a very minimalistic, elegant design. But - every now and then it is nice to have a wider load base, like when carrying small packets to the post office f.ex. - they keep slipping, making that particular trip an exercise in balancing (which is bad since your attention should be on the road, not on what's on your luggage rack).
So I came up with this idea of a base extension, providing a wider base to rest items on without having them sliding and slipping, leaving you with a package at an awkward angle hanging off your bike in the middle of the road.

The design is "slip on and forget", it clicks in at the front so that the whole contraption doesn't come loose when braking and overall just performs how I intended it to perform. 

Easy to see I had quite an inconsistent first layer, but that does not affect the functionality of the part.

Bike rack extension for Tubus Fly Evo

BikeRack_v2.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5037683.

When you (for whatever reason) have uncoupled your hotend cables from the bowden tube you will find out rather soon that some sort of cable guide / strain relief is necessary to make everything look neat'n'tidy. 

Here's my solution - a combined cable strain relief / bowden support bracket that simply snaps on the upper X carriage guide roller axles. 

Update - due to request I uploaded a .step version for you to tweak as needed

Update - added a version with a "trigger finger" to work with my BT remote switch


Ender 3 v2 cable strain relief (w/ bowden support)

StrainRelief+Trigger.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4960578.

Dual Z leadscrew setups, especially when fitted aftermarket, usually need a timing belt to keep both Z axis in sync. A belt is even a good thing to have if your dual Z setup incorporates a second stepper motor - because both Z axis might get out of sync when the printer is not powered (and you work on the gantries, or even just move the printer around)

So, these setups usually come with a belt tensioner. But - these tensioners normally adjust on one side of the belt only, resulting in one very large stretch of belt where the tensioner does not touch it and, opposite, to shorter stretches of belt with the tension idler touching it somewhere - ideally in the middle, but YMMV.

This certainly leads to uneven tension which in turn might affect timing, shortening the life of your belt and quite possible leading to other problems, hence my (now revised) design of a symmetrical belt tensioning device applying even tension on both lengths of the timing belt.

What has changed to yesterday's original version?

- back mounted bracket, keeps the top clean :)
- tensioner arm moved closer to top extrusion (21 mm is the correct distance to leadscrew center axis)
- prints without supports
- bigger idlers (based on Rickysol's design of his Tronxy pulley (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4167751), running on standard 16mm V-roller bearings
- alternative bracket included for those who prefer a (lock) nut to attach the tension bar
 

 


Dual Z symmetric Belt Tensioner (revised)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4946134.

This is a remix of a vital part of Stilwell's power switch mod (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4864993) - the actual relocated switch mount on the front end of the right base extrusion on the printer. 
Why? Because ... apparently Creality uses different parts on the same printer, maybe dependent on where it ships, whatever. On mine I found the original switch would never fit Stilwell's switch mount, so I did this remix.

There's three iterations - two recessing the switch as to avoid accidental activation (my printer sits on my "everyday" desk and I do not want to accidentally switching it off while a print is going on). One recessed version is narrow, one widens up a bit - whichever you like best.
The third iteration adds a flip cover (thus keeping the base plate sleek), the cover is best printed in a transparent filament (it will not become see-through, unfortunately). The hinges line up perfectly with the extrusion slots, so if you have fitted any of these fancy extrusion slot covers you maybe want to print the flip cover in the same color.
I pondered about PIP hinges but decided against - one, to open a possibility for multi color / multi material printing, second becaude it is a functional part and I choose strength over cleverness of design - just use a 2mm drill and use the good old (but extremely reliable) filament hinge: push a length of filament through the holes and flatten the ends with a heated nail head. This will give you a very strong and lasting hinge.

All three parts are push-in and fit quite snug, the may require some careful wiggling to seat them properly but in the end they will just slot in - and stay there, no shifting about or anything (I feel that for a switch, or in fact ANY electrical fitting, you do not want any movement or falling out or what).

Ender 3 V2 Power Switch Mod - Remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803046.

I needed a small double hook to attach a self-created key fob to my kar keys for easier identification when in service etc. Good I came across the original design (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1990212) which has just the right size and is really strong - I combined two of these hooks, editing away the curtain ring which was noc longer needed (for my purposes). Result - a nice small lightweight but strong keyring carabine hook.

Double Hook

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