These components integrate the servo into the rest of the assembly.

Servo components

This holds the servo in place on the wrist plate horizontally using 40mm m3 bolts to affix the servo to the base, and 20mm m3 bolts to hold the base to the wrist plate. Several hex nut recesses are included for various securement options, but I recommend using at least 4 of them as far apart as possible.

servo base.stl

This is the assembly that holds the project to the limb of your choice. It was designed to be adjustable and modular for easy arrangement of the components needed for your gripping needs. The plate is TPU prints upside down, so the grooves will be on top on the build plate, but facing the limb during use. The through holes are modeled to comfortably hold the head of an m3 screw without digging into skin. The clips are printed in PLA with supports on the build plate only, and bolt together with a recessed hex nut to hold an elastic strap firm. Adjustment is a bit cumbersome, but the straps wont work loose during wear. 

wrist plate

This is where everything comes together. Elastic straps are fed through the rectangular holes, and the circular holes are modeled for m3 bolts. Hole spacing is 11.3mm on center in a grid to allow for easy component layout and modular design. This functions as the general orientation of components, but stiffeners printed in PLA will need to be added on top to constrain flex during use. 

full wrist plate tpu.stl

The proximal phalanx slides snugly into this part to easily attach it to a base plate of your choice, and quickly change arrangement and orientation. Two m3x30 screws affix the retaining clip, with a third accessory screw hole for expansions. 

proximal base

The main body of the base. No supports are needed. 

proximal base.stl

The case that holds the brains of this project. There are two holes in the bottom to fine tune the height of the divider plate, as well as push a screw through in case the fit is a bit too snug to pull the divider out. Fit one nut in the nut recess inside the box if you want to be able to fine tune the divider height with an m3 screw. The clip on the outside affixes it to a belt or strap so you can yeet it if your jank soldering causes an issue before the control box becomes a part of your flesh. 

control box shell.stl

Stand offs for the charge and servo control boards on one convenient plate that also serves as the fourth wall for the battery enclosure. Print with supports on build plate only to keep the nut recesses crisp. Use 15mm m3 screws to hold the boards down, and make absolutely certain they don't extend past the bottom of the plate. If in doubt, use washers, or only use the outside standoffs to avoid damaging the battery.

control box divider.stl

Stand offs for the charge and servo control boards on one convenient plate that also serves as the fourth wall for the battery enclosure. Print with supports on build plate only to keep the nut recesses crisp.

A fun little press fit lid for the control box printed in TPU. There are holes for the servo pins as well as the USB C charging port, and a notch for the servo actuator switch cables. Don't worry about getting the press fit pegs clean when printing, the more dirt nasty the stringing is, the better it'll hold the lid on. Double check that your servo pins are aligned correctly when you first install it. 

control box lid tpu.stl

Keep forgetting to eat before a stream? Put the solution right in front of you with this stylish and convenient survival pack. Every time you drop a component, you'll be reminded that, unfortunately, you have a flesh bag that requires maintenance, and viewers that need to be called to action. 

Printed at with a 0.8mm nozzle at 0.6mm layer height, single perimeters, and 10% infill so I could get back to other projects. Adjust your settings for desired sleekness.

Hallowearables #hallowearables

Models pictured
https://thangs.com/Trukku/back-ringstl-28081
https://thangs.com/Trukku/reminder-plate--call-to-actionstl-28079
https://thangs.com/Trukku/reminder-plate--hydratestl-28077
https://thangs.com/Trukku/reminder-plate--blankstl-28076

Loose components
https://thangs.com/Trukku/loose-component--miostl-28083
https://thangs.com/Trukku/loose-component--quart-mason-jarstl-28080
https://thangs.com/Trukku/loose-component--poptartstl-28078

stream survival pack.stl

Keep forgetting to eat before a stream? Put the solution right in front of you with this stylish and convenient survival pack. Every time you drop a component, you'll be reminded that, unfortunately, you have a flesh bag that requires maintenance, and viewers that need to be called to action. 

A container for a standard mio water enhancer bottle, for when you need caffeine, but no time or desire for coffee.

loose component - mio.stl

The component that takes this project from a holdable to a wearable. Lace 1.75mm filament through the holes printed into the pack around your body, looped through the ring, and tied off securely. Have a friend tie it on with a ferocious knot for long sessions where you can't say you're done until they agree, or you decide to put some flush cutters to use.

A friendly reminder to your viewers is kindly embossed to give them a bit more to look at when you forget to switch camera angles.

back ring.stl

A reasonable vessel for a reasonable amount of hydration. The notch in the front gives your viewers ample information on your current hydration progress while you hack. Don't forget to use a lid with a reusable straw you've got left over from an old project for easy sipping and saving the turtles.

loose component - quart mason jar.stl

Don't forget to call your viewers to action, but make sure you don't do it too much. Hand in hand with the analog counter display of the brim of the pack, you'll make sure you've either called sufficiently, or forgot to use the counter at the end of a long stream.

reminder plate - call to action.stl

A convenient tray for pop-tarts, preferably wrapped, since it's not food safe. If you decide to abandon all safety, there's a handy crumb tray at the bottom. Affix some tape to the bottom to keep the crumbs out of your keeb, and remove and reapply as needed.

loose component - pop-tart.stl

A reminder plate for when hydration is your number 12 priority, conveniently in a bold, italicized, and emphasized arrangement.

reminder plate - hydrate.stl

A blank reminder plate, for when you have nothing to remember, or want to emboss your own reminder for a very specific task.

reminder plate - blank.stl

The middle child of phalanges. They're easily used in any quantity to modify the gripping capabilities of a digit, and don't let your own biology convince you that the ideal number is one, because the geometry of this project suggests it's usually at least two to reach a full 360° of closure. Base and skeletal models are included to facilitate your design needs.

intermediate phalanx

The base model. Nothing fancy, less to worry about. Prints well up to a 0.3mm layer height. 2 verical, 2 bottom, and 3 top perimeters are plenty with 20% infill. 

intermediate phalanx 

This is the proximal phalanx, where the flexion begins. This is the base of the business end of this project, so mind your print settings accordingly. There are a base and skeletal model listed, the latter offering a few more prototyping options.

proximal phalanx

The base model. The safest bet to get you gripping life's opportunities ASAP. 20% gyroid infill, 2 vertical perimeters, along with 2 bottom and 3 top layers are the best bets at 0.3mm layer height.

proximal phalanx (1).stl

The distal phalanx is the end of the line. In certain gripping operations, it's just the last of the phalanges where the tendons are terminated, but in others, it's the critical element in creating a firm grasp. To this end, two models are included, a base model that's suited to general purpose use, and a skeletal model with an additional hole and hollow body to facilitate the use of purpose specific augments. 



distal phalanx

Well suited to 0.3mm or lower layer height prints using PLA or any other rigid filament. 20% gyroid infill is sufficient. This is the basic model that will get you gripping in no time.

distal phalanx.stl

A solid version of the interphalangeal element to be used if slicing of the original causes issues. 

interphalangeal element soild

::Thangs is too broken for me to finish submitting my entry. Had fun, don't care. Might come back when it matures.::

Short a thumb or three? Finding yourself lacking when it comes to being able to express just how much you approve of something in a non-verbal way due to insufficient length or girth in your current anatomy? Just bored with the bland symmetrical quadrupedal body layout that biology dealt you? alt-THumbs might be what you were longing for!

This project aims to be a contemporary bridge between modern adaptive prosthetics and transhumanist aspirations (the "TH" in alt-THumbs stands for Transhumanist, which I thought was clever after ignoring diurnal biological impulses for too long) using the bleeding edge technology of the 1980's - 3D printing! The project focuses on mechanical freedoms afforded to us by readily available manufacturing processes and materials. A wide range of skills are critical to the expansion of the project, and community contributions are highly encouraged.

This serves as a landing page for the project, where links to components and example designs are listed. Overall BOM listed at the bottom. 

Included below is the link that holds the project together, a simple joint analog, the interphalangeal element, which is a physical component that lets the entirety of the project get going, literally. A master list of relevant links (the electronic kind, not the physical kind) will be broken into two sections - components and builds, in their own subsections at the bottom of this description. Component links will have detailed print instructions and relevant design considerations, while the build links are higher level assembly guides. Feel free to use these as jumping off points to find a solution that's right for you, and share it in accordance with the license attached. 

---------------------------
interphalangeal element 

This element connects the phalangeal elements by sliding into their grooves. Ideally this would be printed in vase mode sequentially to get your required quantity with 1.2mm extrusion widths, but the thickness determines the force with which the joints are articulated, so feel free to play with the extrusion widths. I experimented with 0.6mm extrusion widths up to 100% perimeters, and the model was modified to accommodate any of these. If not printed in vase mode, make sure seams are set to random, and use the highest layer height available to you. an additional solid model has been added if you're having slicing issues.

---------------------------

Components list:
(coming soon)
interphanageal elements
-standard element
https://thangs.com/Trukku/work-in-progress-altTHumbs-home-page-hallowearables-27272
-solid element
https://thangs.com/Trukku/interphalangeal-element-soild-27356
proximal phalanges
https://thangs.com/Trukku/proximal-phalanx-27375
intermediate phalanges
https://thangs.com/Trukku/intermediate-phalanx-27433
distal phalanges
https://thangs.com/Trukku/distal-phalanx-27364
mounting plates
retaining clips
phalangeal pads

==============================
General BOM (tinyurl used due to character limit)

Entirely too many m3 hex cap screws and nuts
https://tinyurl.com/prf56tsp

Monofilament fishing line (30lb is a safe weight, as I had some issues with 8lb breaking)
https://tinyurl.com/a53knz8w

3/4" or 20mm elastic band
https://tinyurl.com/2z48s8dm

LiPo charge/boost board
https://tinyurl.com/2vsj4xna

Servo trigger
https://tinyurl.com/54ceu42u

Servo (sparkfun ROB-11885)
https://tinyurl.com/2paz5tn5

LiPo battery (sparkfun PRT-13856)
https://tinyurl.com/s4z2xzwr

Mini push botton on/off switch
https://tinyurl.com/32f9482a

TPU and PLA filaments of your choice, but these are the ones I used
https://tinyurl.com/2vxv9dhb
https://tinyurl.com/y2r5dhx7
https://tinyurl.com/4kadwwrc

Miscellaneous jumper wires or header pins for assembling the boards
https://tinyurl.com/wm52773w



:work in progress: alt-THumbs home page 

This element connects the phalangeal elements by sliding into their grooves. Ideally this would be printed in vase mode with 1.2mm extrusion widths, but the thickness determines the force with which the joints are articulated, so feel free to play with the extrusion widths. I experimented with 0.6mm extrusion widths up to 100% perimeters, and the model was modified to accommodate any of these. If not printed in vase mode, make sure seams are set to random, and use the highest layer height available to you. 

#hallowearables

interphalangeal element 

Activity related to collaborating with others on models

Likes, comments, and activity from your community

A roundup of models that we think you'll like

For when we think someone might have posted your content as their own

New content from your premium memberships

Emails and messages from designers you follow

Trukku

Achievements

Seedling

Servo components

wrist plate

proximal base

control box shell.stl

control box divider.stl

control box lid tpu.stl

stream survival pack.stl

loose component - mio.stl

back ring.stl

loose component - quart mason jar.stl

reminder plate - call to action.stl

loose component - pop-tart.stl

reminder plate - hydrate.stl

reminder plate - blank.stl

intermediate phalanx

proximal phalanx

distal phalanx

interphalangeal element soild

:work in progress: alt-THumbs home page