Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921875.

A small self anchoring (in one direction) spacer that can be attached to Ikea Skadis board.

Skadis partition spacer 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5444774.

This is a stand for a monitor I bought used, that did not come with a stand.

I was going to make a VESA mount for this screen, but there are many out there, and most would cover the inputs on the back.

The paper template, I used to make a base from 12mm plywood. I don't think the shape is particularly critical.

And I just screwed the plywood to the bottom of the 3d printed part.

The two screws to mount are M4 16mm long.

I printed in PLA 2mm walls 2mm top and bottom, and 20% infil.

I made 2 for the screens I bought and they work great.



LG 24mp88hv-s Monitor Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2243211.

These are a couple of tool storage boxes I made to fit various parts.
The boxes were stuck to the sides with some light duty double sided tape, in case we need to remove them.
Just be aware if you make them, the sides of the Brother cutter are slightly bowed in, at least on ours they were, so you may need extra layers of tape in the area where there is a gap.

0.8mm perimeters
0.2-0.25mm layer height
10% infill

'Brother Scan n Cut' Side storage boxes

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4746553.

This is a remix of  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4692711

I made this because the air nozzle was too high for my laser, I have reduced the height so the aim is where the beam focuses, 2mm below the shield. 

Air Assist Atomstack A5 remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1963097.

This is simple file handle suitable for small needle files with 3.5mm handles.

The handle is 50mm long and 11mm diameter.

I made this because most of the ones on Thingiverse were too big for my liking.

If the hole is too small when printed, just use a cordless drill running in reverse with a 3-3.5mm drill as required. 
Don't run the drill forwards as this will cause it to 'grab' and you'll probably end up with a misaligned hole or injury.


Print this on a raft or brim with 3 perimeters and 25-35% infill 



Small needle file handle 3.5mm hole

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4588849.

This is an adapter to allow a 20v Aldi 'Activ Energy' to connect to other power tools.
I have made the battery connector part which can be screwed (with the original screws from the original battery in my case) 

The adapters v1 and v2 differ only where the battery is positioned relative to the adapter.

I've also included a template stl for the battery connector part alone in case anyone is interested in making this fit other power tools.

There is a stl for the metal contacts which is the only other part you will need to make this work. 
I cut the contacts from an old computer backplate and filed to deburr them before fitting into the 3d printed part. They can be pressed in or lightly tapped in with a small hammer.

One of the pictures shows the contacts pressed into the correct holes, Which are 2 (Ground) and 5 (20v) These outputs are written on the battery as B2- and B2+. 

The top part of the original battery with the contacts removed from the battery pack 
and wires soldered for the power, then secured in the top of the original part with hot glue (be careful with polarity when soldering) and the other ends of the wires soldered to the upper side of the pressed in contacts. The top part is then screwed to the 3d printed part. 

Holes are not included so that this can be fitted to different upper parts so make the top skin thick enough.to self tap, 1.2mm seems fine.

You need to print the battery adapter with support everywhere. this is to support the slide slots, but some support may block the clips that secure the adapter to the power tool, so these will need removing too.

If I've missed anything here that the pictures don't explain then by all means let me know in the comments,

Ferrex 20v battery To Powercraft (and maybe others) adapter.

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2760743.

This is a replacement part for a GT52 garage door opener.

I never got a chance to try this out as I ordered one online before I decided to make one and it arrived before I'd finished it.

But someone may find it useful.

I'm not guaranteeing this part will work.

Just a thought, the spring parts on the bottom make me think this part would be best printed horizontal with supports

Replacement Einhell GT52 sled/carriage

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4715233.

This is replacement blade holder.

My original had cracked in several places and been glued, but was never quite right afterwards.

This model prints vertically, it needs support, but not much.

In Cura I had to use 85 degree overhang angle and increase support density to 30%.

I printed in PLA, with 3mm walls and 2mm top and bottom, this ensures that any infill is actually done at the speed of the internal walls, and also creates a nice solid part.

Tests show that my plane is now working as good as new, (it's actually about 40 years old)





David Plane blade holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1515973.

This is a wall mounted storage box, intended to be fixed to the wall by double sided tape.
Alternatively it can be screwed to the wall. 
The design has no holes in the back so they will need to be drilled if required. 


Wall mounted storage box

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5445031.

This is an io shield I made for a motherboard I bought without one.

It fitted my motherboard fine, and is held in place by the io frame in the PC case once mounted.

Printed from PLA 

choose whatever settings work for you.

Asus Z370-p IO shield

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2206010.

This is a simple replacement foot just glue in place.
It should fit all the way to the flat part as in the picture.

Sizzix Big Shot replacement foot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921868.

Just a quick and simple mosfet mount, none of the ones I tried were the right size so here is mine.

25A Mosfet mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5445034.

This is a belt I made to repair my floppy drive.

It must be printed from flexible material like TPU, possibly others, but TPU worked for me.

It just takes a couple of minutes to print.

Atari STFM floppy drive belt

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2243333.

Small key to reset Fire alarm or panic alarm etc, whatever uses FP2 key.
Just be aware key only needs to turn about 5 degrees or so until resistance is felt, don't try to turn fully as this is unnecessary and may snap the key.
Print as  supplied, use support (it wont take much and key prints in about 6 minutes)
Cura support angle 40 degrees gave good support and peeled of easily.

0.2mm layer height.
100% infill

Fire Alarm Reset FP2 Key

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921885.

This simply plugs in at the bottom of one of the wire parts to stop it accidentally disengaging and falling out.

Ikea Skadis wire lock

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1920763.

This is a simple fix I made to repair the cracked lid of my laptop.
I simply superglued the pieces over the broken corner after gluing the cracks closed.
Closing then opening the lid slightly closed the gaps to keep everything tight,

If you do this be careful not to use too much glue, just a few small dots on the back of the part and position carefully, it probably wont slide or move once you position it, you have been warned!!

I printed mine in PLA, 0.2mm layer height and 100% infill.

My actual metal hinges were in good shape but the lid had cracked after a few years use.

This might work for you and might give me a few years more


My laptop is a Dell E5500 

Laptop lid corner repair

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2132715.

I've adjusted the text and cleared the calibration hole.

Nice case though, thanks!

DSO138 top remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783436.

This is a long bearing holder that can be mounted with four screws with standard spacing.
It can take two bearings but only needs one set of mounting holes.

This should also ensure that two bearing are perfectly aligned with each other.

A quick remix of my own holder.


Super long LM8UU linear bearing holder (90mm) 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3137133.

If you have some broken clips that secure your wooden dado to the wall but cannot find anywhere that sells them, then this might be what you're looking for.

they are a nice snug fit unlike the loose fit of the original part.

I believe dado was made by Richard Burbidge.

I printed with .8mm shell 100% infil .2mm layer height

Depending on your print bed a small brim may help it stick.

Replacement dado clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798632.

I could not find any other adapters on Thingiverse that allowed the replacement of three C cell batteries with a single 18650, many of them replace the three C cells with two 18650 cells, I believe that this is most likely to damage an LED torch/flashlight...

This is simple battery adapter to allow three C cells to be replaced with a single 18650 lithium cell.

After printing, solder a small washer to a suitable piece of wire, then feed it through hole inside the adapter (the end where the 18650 fits), the wire should hold itself in place, but if not push an 18650 cell inside to hold it in position. 

Then simply cut the wire where it exits on the outside, leaving enough wire to solder on another washer to create the positive terminal.

Make sure the solder is relatively flat after soldering or adapter may not fit correctly.

Triple C Cell to 18650 battery adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1515955.

This is a simple mini bin/container 150mm wide 150mm high and 100 front to back at the top, tapering to 90mm at the bottom.

The walls are quite thin, 2mm, so bear this in mind if scaling down.

Flat back Mini Bin

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1465644.

I'm currently trying out a Bowden extruder on my. Hictop aluminium and previously the hot end and fan cables were tied to the stepper motor cable and seemed pretty solid.

However since the stepper motor is no longer on the carriage, the cables seem to bend as the printer prints and I don't want to fatigue the connections.

So I have made a simple support  to keep them from flexing.

The support uses the top linear bearing screws and the cables should clip into the end (see pic). I have left a half slot at the back to allow a cable tie if needed, mine seems ok.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Mine looks slightly different, I radiused the rear corner afterwards.



Hictop carriage cable support

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