Hopefully these instructions are enough to replicate this build, but I plan on making a quick assembly video for this updated design soon. Also, if I made any major mistakes in these instructions or something is unclear, just leave me a comment.

Shopping List: https://www.linkslist.app/DKsWRBx

**Printing Instructions:**
I've designed 2 different versions of this hilt. Head.stl is the default version- it can be printed normally without any modification, ready to go right off the bed. HeadAlt.stl is a variant that increases thread durability of the blade's set screw. For this variant, you'll need to pause the print at around 64-64.25mm high to insert one of the nuts provided with the Xenopixel core. This nut will be much more durable than the pure plastic of the default version, but print pauses can be risky. It also minimizes the size of the hole visible from the outside. Choose whatever feels right for you.

For slicer settings, I'd recommend about 4 walls and 15% infill. Layer height is up to you, but probably don't go above .2 mm. Re-orient the lower half (legs) upside down, the bowtie about 45º or so leaning back, and the button straight up. Supports are only needed in a few areas, so I recommend manually painting them in: underside of the upper half (head), back of bowtie, speaker holes inside the lower half (legs), within the bowtie cutout on the lower half (legs), and the feet. Everywhere else isn't really necessary- they'll just be more material to remove later.

Optional: If you have a multicolor printer and don't want to spray paint it later, you'll need to manually set/paint the filament colors in your slicer. Just look at photos for reference. If I get enough people requesting it, I might consider splitting each color of the design into separate models to make it easier to multicolor print.

**Assembly:**
After removing all supports, assemble the bowtie button by pushing the button pin through the hole from the inside. Dab a tiny bit of superglue onto the tip of the button (not too much- you don't want to accidentally glue the bowtie onto the body) and press the bowtie onto the button. Hold these together for at least 20 seconds.
You'll now need to use some of the hardware provided with the Xenopixel core. I've simplified the design so you only need to use one of the short set screws with a spike on one end and one of the self tapping fasteners. Start to screw the set screw into the back of the neck below the chicken's comb. (If you printed the variant using an embedded nut, you'll want to start threading this screw from the interior of the neck. I know this is clunky, but for some reason, I decided that it'd look more polished if the external hole was only big enough for the hex key.) Tighten this screw until it is just barely far enough away from the internal cutout (so you can insert the blade later).
Now take the self tapping fastener and screw it into the Xenopixel core- the proper hole is on the back side of the core, second above the battery. (Theres 2 of these holes directly behind the power button, with two lines '=' separating them. You want the lower of these 2). Screw this in until the power button starts to push forward. You'll want to keep screwing until the front of the button is fairly flush with the exterior of the core. (There is room for adjustment here- more on this later).
Slide the core into the lower half of the chicken, aligning the protruding screw with the chicken's internal cutout. Test the bowtie button- if there's way too much play and/or it's not engaging with the power button, pull the core out and tighten the screw on the back a little. If it's way too tight and you can't insert the core, then loosen the screw. (Tried my best to give enough wiggle room here to help get the proper fit.) Now slide the top of the chicken onto the core and twist to tighten it down- but don't over tighten, you don't want to break the plastic threads. Plus, you'll be unscrewing this often to access the charging port.
The hilt is now complete. Insert the blade into the chicken's throat and tighten the set screw just enough to secure the blade.

**Sound Files:**
The custom sound fonts for this build are still kind of a work in progress- if I make any notable changes, I'll update here.
If you've never loaded a custom sound font onto a Xenopixel core before, I'd highly recommend watching some tutorial videos on it. It's worth knowing how things work and how not to ruin your core.
I've provided 2 different sound fonts here- one that I call "Light Meat" and the other "Dark Meat", mostly based on the vibes of each sound. (I think I personally like the dark version better.) For a Light Meat chicken, it's as simple as dropping the font in like any other sound font (like I said, go watch a video specifically for this). But the Dark Meat font is mildly more complicated. Basically, I couldn't find an easy way to implement a custom preon that pairs with a particular ignition effect, so I modified the main Xenopixel settings file to include my custom preon effects. I'm sure there's possibly another way to approach this, but I couldn't find any documentation for it. So, when you import the Dark Meat sound font, you'll also need to replace your core's settings file with the one I've provided. Everything else about the saber should be untouched. I also recommend removing other sound fonts from your sd card if you don't plan on ever using them- you should probably store them in a safe place though, just in case.

**Operation:**
Aside from simply pressing the bowtie to operate, you should actually read your Xenopixel manual. This isn't really my product, so you should go to them for learning how to use it. I absolutely recommend using the Xenopixel app though- makes things a lot easier.

Rubber Chicken Lightsaber

Body.stl

This is a 3D-Printable model kit of the Red 3 Hero X-Wing model in 1/24 studio scale.

Designed with meticulous attention to detail, the use of the latest technologies like photogrammetry and with the originally used kit parts in hand, every curve, every panel line and every detail has been faithfully recreated to be as accurate as possible to the Red 3 Hero model, that was used for filming in the first STAR WARS movie.

With this STL set you can build your own studio-model-accurate replica of Biggs Darklighters Red 3 X-Wing.
But you can of course paint it in any desired color scheme and call sign you want. The included templets for the call sign markings will help you with that.

The last eight pictures show the main differences between Red 3 and Red 5.

May the force be with you!


**Features**
- 1/24 studio scale (studio scale = the size they used for the filming miniature)
- Articulated S-foils.
- Recesses for magnets in the wing mechanism to easily install the wing covers.
The magnets also make closing the wings more tactile and help keep the wings in horizontal position. 
Recesses for magnets in the wing tips to help keep the wings closed.
- Articulated targeting computer.
- Astromech droid with turnable head (R2, R4 and R5)
- 3 Pilots 
   - Live Action Pilot
   - Live Action Pilot with raised hand
   - ILM-Style Pilot
- 2 Cockpits 
   - Live Action Cockpit
   - ILM-Style Cockpit
- The Live Action Cockpit has 0,6mm holes for fiber optics
- Cable routing for engine lighting integrated in the wings
- The finished model can be mounted on a threaded stand 
- 3D-Printable templates to paint Call Sign Markings (Red3 and generic 1-12) included
- Optional Parts for CNC to make out of metal


**Data**
Length: 560 mm / 22 in
Width: 460 mm / 18 in
Hight (with S-foils locked in attack position): 190 mm / 7.5 in
74 STL-files for 3D printing (+ some Alternative Parts)


**Info**
You purchase digital STL-files for 3D printing!
All files are developed for resin printing. 
All files are tested, successfully resin printed and assembled.
Recommended printer build volume for the native scale: 192x120x250 mm (WxDxH)
(Min. required printer build volume: 192 x 120 x 200 mm (WxDxH))

Print the wings and the fuselage with engineering resin (or similar that has little to no flex) to prevent any sagging. Don’t use an ABS-like resin.
Cure the wings and the fuselage very thoroughly immediately after printing for at least 20-30 minutes (washed of course).

My resin recommendation: https://amzn.to/454ywQd


**Join the NerdMaker Community**
[YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@DominicSchwarz?sub_confirmation=1)
[Discord ](https://discord.gg/9jppu3AxJK)
[Instagram ](https://www.instagram.com/nerd_maker_engineer)
[Facebook ](https://www.facebook.com/nerdmakerengineer)


**License**
A Commercial License, to sell 3D-Prints of my Models, is available here:
[Patreon ](https://www.patreon.com/NerdMaker)

Model-X MK II 1/24 Studio Scale Red 3

Droid Strip.stl

This is a 3D printable model kit of the famous Incom T-65 X-Wing, used by the Rebellion in several Battels to fight the Empire.
The scale of the model is 1/12 to fit the pilot from the Hasbro 6 Inch Black Series (not included). 
STL-files for the astromech droid are included. If you choose to use a R2 unit from Hasbro, it needs to be cut to fit into the slot.
The 3D model is highly detailed to replicate the studio model used for filming in the original STAR WARS Trilogy.
It is designed like a giant model kit. You print it piece by piece and then assemble it.
The STL-files have a high resolution to achieve great print results.

These three pilots are available from Hasbro (you can repaint the helmet to be any other pilot, though):
Luke Skywalker: https://amzn.to/3EYBPPy *
Wedge Antilles: https://amzn.to/3X8spr2 *
Antoc Merrick: https://amzn.to/3QtBS8A *


**Features**
- Articulated S-foils.
- Articulated targeting computer. 
- Astromech droid with turnable head (R2, R4 and R5); R2 can be lit.
- Alternative parts for the different studio scale models are included.
- The canopy can be displayed closed and open.
- The finished model can be mounted on a threaded stand or it can be displayed landed with the included landing gear.
- The kit includes two ladders, if you want to display the X-Wing in a hangar scene. (One for the pilot and one for the hangar staff.)
- Cable routing for lighting is possible.

 
**Data**
Length: 1060mm 
Width: 870mm
Hight (with S-foils locked in attack position): 335mm
The fully assembled model weighs around 5kg (depending on your infill ratio).
166 STL-files for 3D printing
1 STL-file complete X-Wing, for viewing purposes only


**Info**
Recommended printer build volume for the native scale: 300x300x265 mm (WxDxH)
The model kit was designed that all details are visible when printed with a 0.4mm nozzle. If you scale the model down you should consider a thinner nozzle.
The parts are not oriented in the ideal printing orientation by default. Orient them in a way that fits best for your printer. Choose suited support structures, if needed.
The download includes a PDF with further information and instructions.


**Join the NerdMaker Community**
[YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@DominicSchwarz?sub_confirmation=1)
[Discord ](https://discord.gg/9jppu3AxJK)
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[Facebook ](https://www.facebook.com/nerdmakerengineer)

**License**
A Commercial License, to sell 3D-Prints of my Models, is available here:
[Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/NerdMaker)



For some video impressions visit:
https://youtu.be/SUxNJJH4eOM
https://youtu.be/L6XjmnLeqzE


May the force be with you!


(*) Alle amzn.to Links sind Amazon Affiliate Links. Werden Käufe über diese Links getätigt, erhalte ich eine kleine Provision von Amazon. Der Preis für dich ändert sich dadurch natürlich nicht.
All amzn.to links are Amazon Affiliate links. If purchases are made via these links, I receive a small commission from Amazon. Of course, this does not change the price for you. 

Model-X MK I (1/12 Scale)

DROID_STRIP.stl

Get commercial license and download newest models cheaply-   https://www.patreon.com/c/goodesign/

This mechanical planet ornament is a Christmas tree decoration inspired by science fiction movies.

I further developed the structure of the hinge used in existing Christmas ornaments and Jack O lanterns and designed it so that when folded and completed, the hinge is not visible at all. This is a great improvement over the existing folding hinge structure.

It was designed so that an LED tea light candle can be placed inside, and the light leaks out through numerous holes. As a result, it appears as if a mechanical planet is floating in outer space.

The part that opens and closes this is on the opposite side of the eye-like circular part, and is designed so that when the gap between the parts is widened with a thin object, the parts open.
Since you only need to move 4 parts to insert or remove the light, you can glue the remaining parts.

The supports that connect the parts must be cut and trimmed.

Please check the video for details.
https://youtu.be/MFutxDYhGGE?si=AF-2k5Y17eUQsx4G

I hope science fiction movie fans have a Merry Christmas with these Christmas decorations.

Largest part in printing, size = X 208mm, Y 93mm, Z 24mm, After full assembly size= X 68mm, Y 68mm, Z 84mm

Total Build Time : 20h 23m / Plastic Weight : 69g
Design by GOODesign

Mechanical planet ornament

GOODesign_Mechanical-Planet_Ornament_Hull.stl

This release includes the ship with full cockpit interior and all weapon accessories in 1/48 and 1/72 scale. 

The length in 1/48 scale is 373.5 mm (14.705 in)
The length in 1/72 scale is 249 mm (9.803 in)

All parts are optimized for resin printing.
Pre-supported STL files and Lychee Slicer Scenes for resin printing are included for both scales.


**Notes for assembly 1/48 scale**
The ship has a recess for a M6 nut on the bottom.
M6 Nuts: https://amzn.to/42J9tkB

The Gatling Guns and the Gatling Gun Hatches have recesses for Magnets to swap them out.
Magnets 5x1mm: https://amzn.to/418CW6S

The Bottom Gun and Bottom Gun Hatch have recesses for Magnets to swap them out.
Magnets 3x1mm: https://amzn.to/42QLAb5
The Bottom Gun comes in two versions. One solid and one hollow for LED lighting (1.5mm LED, holes for cable routing must be drilled)

The Canopy can be printed with or without glass.


**Notes for assembly 1/72 scale**
The ship has a recess for a M3 nut on the bottom.
M3 Nuts: https://amzn.to/4jSBEES

The Gatling Guns and the Gatling Gun Hatches have recesses for Magnets to swap them out.
Magnets 5x1mm: https://amzn.to/418CW6S

The Bottom Gun is too small for magnets. Therefore, you need to use double-sided tape (or similar) in order to swap the parts.
The bottom gun comes in two versions. One solid and one hollow for LED lighting (1mm LED, holes for cable routing must be drilled).

The Canopy can be printed with or without glass.


If you still need a good slicer for resin printing, I recommend Lychee Slicer:
https://lychee.co/pricing-and-subscription?utm_source=affiliae&utm_campaign=lychee&utm_medium=NerdMaker&ae=55 *


**Info**
Min. required printer build volume: 192x120x200 mm (WxDxH)
Print the wings and the fuselage with engineering resin (or similar that has little to no flex) to prevent any sagging. Don’t use an ABS-like resin.
Cure the wings and the fuselage very thoroughly immediately after printing for at least 20-30 minutes (washed of course).

My resin recommendation: https://amzn.to/454ywQd

For assembly guidance I recommend to import all STL files in Fusion. Then you can see the entire model in 3D, hide/show every part and see exactly where every part goes. An instruction how to do that and a color guide are included in the download.


**Join the NerdMaker Community**
[YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@DominicSchwarz?sub_confirmation=1)
[Twitch](https://www.twitch.tv/nerdmaker86) 
[Discord ](https://discord.gg/9jppu3AxJK)
[Instagram ](https://www.instagram.com/nerd_maker_engineer)
[Facebook ](https://www.facebook.com/nerdmakerengineer)


**License**
A Commercial License, to sell 3D-Prints of my Models, is available here:
[Patreon ](https://www.patreon.com/NerdMaker)



All amzn.to links are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. The price will stay the same for you of course!
*This is an affiliate link. If you purchase the Plus or Library license via this link, I get a small commission from Lychee. The price will stay the same for you of course!

Model-T Avenger - 1-48 and 1-72 scale

TIE Avenger 1-48 - Hull front.stl

This is a 3D printable Diorama of an X-Wing Cockpit in 1/6 scale for the Hot Toys / Sideshow figures. Since not everyone has the space to display a full 1/6 scale X-Wing in their homes, I decided to create this cutout diorama. It will fit nicely on your shelf :)

The flight stick, the targeting computer and the canopy are articulated. And not only is the canopy articulated, it also has a fully working mechanism (that can also be motorized, if wanted).
You can choose to either use a Hot Toys, Sideshow or Sphero R2-D2 or use the included STL files to 3D print R2 or R5 (It is a half R-Unit as in the X-Wing studio model).
R2’s head can also be turned.
The cockpit can be lit with 2 mm fiber optics.
R2 can be lit with 0.5 and 7 mm fiber optics.

**Data**
Length: 687 mm
Width: 353 mm (without ladders)
Height: 434 mm (with R2)


**Info**
Min printer build volume: 250 x 250 x 250 mm (WxDxH)
3MF Bambu Studio file included

**Join the NerdMaker Community**
[YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@DominicSchwarz?sub_confirmation=1)
[Twitch](https://www.twitch.tv/nerdmaker86) 
[Discord ](https://discord.gg/9jppu3AxJK)
[Instagram ](https://www.instagram.com/nerd_maker_engineer)
[Facebook ](https://www.facebook.com/nerdmakerengineer)


**License**
A Commercial License, to sell 3D-Prints of my Models, is available here:
[Patreon ](https://www.patreon.com/NerdMaker)


Model-X Cockpit Diorama 1/6

R2 Dome.stl

Get commercial license and download newest models by GOODesign cheaply- https://www.patreon.com/goodesign

This design is not for commercial use and should not be printed for sale.

The Star Wars AT-AT I previously designed gained great popularity. Since then, while working on various other designs, I started to think about how I could improve the AT-AT I had created.
So this time, I made several enhancements and designed the AT-AT Version 2.0.
In particular, I made significant improvements to the head section, allowing the lower part with the laser to move back and forth, just like in the movies.
Enjoy this newly improved, high-quality Star Wars AT-AT, featuring print-in-place technology!

Check out the video below for a step-by-step guide on how to put it together!

https://youtu.be/GytCs7XrmQQ
https://youtu.be/GrJVu2Va14s
https://youtu.be/hv90qwgkzS8

1 : 144 scale

Size, X 70mm, Y 191mm, Z 157mm

Print-in-place Articulated STARWARS AT-AT Ver2.0

GOODesign_Print-in-place_Articulated_STARWARS_AT-AT_Body.stl

The Millennium Falcon, which was extremely popular with makers, has been improved by color-separating several parts this time.
This Millennium Falcon that I designed was inspired by pizza slices and can be completed with high quality by dividing it in a way that is suitable for printing with an FDM 3D printer. This new approach to the shape of the Millennium Falcon has been popular with many makers.

However, it felt monotonous because it was printed in only one color, so this time I color-separated it to make it more complete.
You can check the entire assembly process in the video of version 1.0.

Version 1.0 Videos
https://youtu.be/1aUt0VfaD8U
https://youtu.be/yWF1ytgD-sk
https://youtu.be/TjLLNn7Cg6c

I hope this 2.0 version will continue the popularity of version 1.0.

Millennium Falcon Ver 2.0

GOODesign_STARWARS_Millennium-Falcon_Drive-Units.stl

The model is split in to several pieces to fit on to a printer with a build volume of 25 x 21 x 21 cm or 9,84 x 8,3 x 8,3 in. (Example Prusa MK3)
All parts are rotated for optimal printing with minimal supports.
Besides the printed parts you only need some filament strips and 6 mm black electric wire (for the side wire detail).
You can see more details in my build video: 
[YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT_OLkHsA_w)

The model is split so you can print all parts in the right color and then assemble it.

Edit 24.04.2022:

Use 3-4 perimeters for the black rods and go really low infill and max 2 perimeters for all the parts above the head, otherwise it will be too heavy. 
If your parts end up to heavy check out this remix by JPMakesStuff: [Link](https://www.printables.com/model/177328-star-wars-d-o-droid-head-support-block)

starwars

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Rubber Chicken Lightsaber

Model-X MK II 1/24 Studio Scale Red 3

Model-X MK I (1/12 Scale)

Mechanical planet ornament

Model-T Avenger - 1-48 and 1-72 scale

Model-X Cockpit Diorama 1/6

Print-in-place Articulated STARWARS AT-AT Ver2.0

Millennium Falcon Ver 2.0

D-O Droid