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##Not to Be Sold
**I'm sharing my files so that you can make them for yourselves or give them away as gifts. I hope you enjoy them. I do not authorize sale of my work by anyone. Please don't ask me.**

##About the Design
This is an elegant abstract sculpture masquerading as a Christmas ornament. It almost seems to change shape as you rotate it in different directions.

This ornament prints well with just a single perimeter. That makes it very light and lets the most light through is you use transparent/translucent filament. In fact, it positively glows. It also looks amazing printed with bichromatic or trichromatic filaments. 

The print shown in clear was printed with Matterhackers Transparent PLA. They were printed on an AnyCubic Mega S and sliced using Cura. I'll be adding pictures soon that show the ornament printed with Matterhackers Quantum Raspberry Gold and Translucent Blue printed on a Prusa MK3S+ sliced using PrusaSlicer.

##Resizing
These should scale up well, but I'm not sure how much smaller you could print them using a consumer FDM printer. Using a resin printer, you could probably print them much smaller.

##Print Time
About 5 hours

##Print Settings
The trickiest parts to print is the top of the stems. Using FDM, if you don't temp, speed, flow, and cooling right, the thin parts of the stem will melt as you print. Thinner walls help. If that's not enough, try increasing the layer height.

*Thickness*

* Layer thickness: .15 mm
* Wall thickness: 0.4 mm.

*Infill*
Using PrusaSlicer, you won't need infill. Just set top and bottom to 1 layer and minimum shell thickness to 0.15 mm. That will keep the ornament light (about 13 grams) and will let the most light through if you use translucent/transparent PLA. 

If you use Cura, I would use support blockers set to 1-3 layers high to add infill just in those areas that are unsupported.

*Speed*
With PrusaSclier, I used the default speed settings for my printer and generic PLA. In cura, I used:
* Outer Wall: 35 mm/sec
* Inner Wall: 40 mm/sec
* Travel Speed: 60 mm/sec

*Build Plate Adhesion*
I used a brim. With the supports, you shouldn't need a raft.

*Supports*
You will probably need supports for both bed adhesion and the overhang on the first few layers. You shouldn't need supports for the loop at the top. Adding them would just increase the chances the supports broke and caused the print to fail. If you get supports inside the ball, just add a support blocker.

* Support Structure: Normal
* Support Placement: Touching Buildplate
* Support Overhang Angle: 60 Degrees (Cura) and 67 (PrusaSlicer)

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