Did you ever stop to think your printer maybe lonely? Print them a buddy that will always be there!

The Extruder Pal's nozzle is 4mm wide so I intentionally included that on the model. I also plan on making more filament shapes for it in the future. Most likely I will make holiday themes and such. If you have a suggestion let me know!

**Print Settings**
All parts can be printed without supports. I printed them at .2mm layer height with 15% infill.

Extruder Pal

Printer Pal.STEP

I designed a fun way to capture the joy of 3D printing! A Flexi Extruder Toy!

This 3D model is free for everyone but please consider supporting my work by subscribing to my Thangs.com Membership!

Thank you!

My model  is protected by Copyright law. You do not have my permission to sell my files or 3D prints of the model.

**Print Settings**
-.2mm layer height
-15-20% infill
-Supports are not needed

**Assembly**
-Print all parts
-Screw the flexi part through the nozzle into the top filament part

Flexi Extruder Toy

Extruder Toy Nozzle.STL

Extruder mod using Orbiter 1.5 gearing with a Hall Effect sensor for filament detection after the gears as needed for use with an ERCF or other MMU.  Can be used without the sensor as a mod for use of Orbiter v1.5 gears or Galileo kits using those gears that matches the aesthetics of the Stealthburner.  Use the x_frame carriage mounts as distributed with the Stealthburner beta package by Voron Design.  Requires Hall Effect sensor and an N52 6x3 neodymium if sensor is desired.

Click "Download All" to receive assembly manual, step file and freecad file.  Enjoy!

Please contact me if there are any issues, this is pretty much a beta release.


Macian's Orbiter v1.5 Mod for the CW2

MainBodyHallEffectN52Magnet.stl

Ender 3 and 3v2 or others using same motor. This is my X-Large version Extruder Motor Knob.

You can find my other matching knobs in my profile:
Drawer Knob:
Belt Tension Knob Covers:
Screen Knob: 
 
Print Settings
Rafts: No
Supports: No
Filament: Hatchbox MATTE PLA Black/Ash Grey

License: Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs
CC BY-NC-ND

Professional Ender 3 v2 Extruder Motor Knob

Ender 3 and 3v2 or others using same motor. This is my X-Large version Extruder Motor Knob.

You can find my other matching knobs in my profile:
Drawer Knob:
Belt Tension Knob Covers:
Screen Knob: 
 
Print Settings
Rafts: No
Supports: No
Filament: Hatchbox MATTE PLA Black/Ash Grey


Are you a fan of pop culture and 3D modeling? Grab this unique Christmas tree topper design by Digitally Forged Designs on Thangs.com. It's a fun play on 3D printing themes with a design featuring a 3D printer extruder as the main body, and customizable filament shapes jetting out from the top to add a sprinkle of festivity. This detailed model offers the perk of printing each section separately. That means you can vary the colors to customize it according to your personal aesthetics. Check out our visuals to get a glimpse of this intricate 3D model. Make your Christmas a little more technological this year with our 3D printer extruder Christmas tree topper. This 12mm extruder Christmas Tree Topper is sure to bring the cheer of the season while paying tribute to the world of 3D printing. Explore Thangs.com today for more pop culture 3D model designs!

12mm Extruder Christmas Tree Topper

Top-Part.stl

As the name says, a solution for the Filament Cutter (used with the SMuFF) on an Ender 3 and Microswiss direct drive combo.

**Please notice:** This model is kind of experimental, since I never tested it.


Filament Cutter for Ender-3 Microswiss Extruder

**Printing Printer Parts!**

This part is for mounting a NEMA 17 motor and an Extruder Drive assembly to a 2020 Extrusion.  Such as mounting it on the top of an Ender 3, thus removing the weight of the extruder from the Z-Axis. 

Some longer screws for your extruder may be necessary as this bracket measure 4.5mm thick between the Motor and Extruder Mounting faces.

------------------------------------------------------------------

- **Necessary Parts (Affiliate Links):**
  - BMG Style Extruder: https://amzn.to/3skkO8v
  - M3 Screws: https://amzn.to/3yXDjBY
  - Metric Screw Assortment: https://amzn.to/3B52FPX
  - T-Nuts: https://amzn.to/3seWeG0

------------------------------------------------------------------

- **INCLUDED FILES:**
  - CAD STEP File to learn how I designed these.
  - Extruder Mount Bracket

--------------------------------------------------------------

- **PRINT PARAMETERS:** 
  - No Supports Required
  - Orient with the Extruder Face on the Bed (has the RLY letters).
  - 4-5 Perimeters Recommended
  - 25%+ Infill (I used Rectilinear)

Mine were printed in GreenGate3D ["Ice Blue"](https://greengate3d.com/collections/recycled-pet-g/products/ice-blue-recycled-pet-g) & [Polymaker](https://us.polymaker.com?aff=28) ["Black" ASA](https://us.polymaker.com/products/polylite-asa?aff=28) filaments.

--------------------------------------------------------------

Want to Support what I do? Check out my social medias please!

**Link Tree:** http://www.HotRodHippie.com/links

--------------------------------------------------------------

**All of my Designs are covered by a Creative Commons Non-Commercial LIcense.**  Sale of prints using my designs are the sole right of myself, the designer, and those I license to do so. Please understand every design is hours of work and multiple prototype prints to ensure quality.  Unauthorized sales will result in new designs not being made public.

PLEASE Credit any and all Remixes of my designs: MandicReally

Extruder Mount Bracket for 2020 Extrusion

Extruder_Mount_V2.step

This is the new version of my previous mount, the last one was to close to the heater cable and ended up melting over a long period of time, this one will not have that problem.

It also uses brass inserts to make it easy to mount/remove the fan and bltouch when needed.

Biqu H2 - 5015 Fan and Bltouch Mount + Duct

Fan and BL Touch Mount.stl

Here is the string star add-on for the 12mm extruder Christmas tree topper.

String Star for 12mm Extruder Christmas Tree Topper

String-Star.stl

Most of the Creality K1 printers are facing the dreaded **UNDER EXTRUSION** problem. I too faced the same.

After lots of tinkering I found out that the extruder motor is getting too hot while printing. Which in turn heats up the pressure plate of the moving extruder gear and deforms due to the filament pressure between the gears.

Solution to the problem is first you need to reduce the current (to 0.4 to 0.45 amps) of the motor by getting the root access. Then you need to print this thin barrier out of some high temp. material like ASA/ABS etc. I printed it with PETG as I didn't have any ASA/ABS in stock. So far It's working fine (after reducing current).

But if you don't have root access then you **must print** using high temp. material. You may need to clean the part with a soft wire brush if too much stringing is there.

Keep the vents towards the motor while installing. This will reduce the contact area with the motor.

This model is 1.4mm thick. So you'll have to replace the screws to fit in.

Creality K1 Extruder motor heat shield with air vents

K1 - ExtruderHeatShieldVented.stl

_Re-Uploaded model for better visualization..._

 
**Yet another DDE variation for the SMuFF...**


This one utilizes the Orbiter Direct Drive Extruder V1.5. 
The most significant difference to the previous published BIQU-H2 version is, that the Filament-Cutter sits below the extruder and hence, the SMuFF isn't forced to purge the filament in the extruder in order to release the 2nd endstop switch.

Although this model is meant to fit the standard Ender-3 extruder, I've replaced the fan shroud with a smaller one that needs a 30 mm fan but also comes in a more compact size and offers the option to mount a BL-Touch or Tiny-Touch to it, as well as a 50x15 blower fan for a more sophisticated part cooling.

A decent BL-Touch bracket is included, the Tiny-Touch mounts without a bracket directly.

The STEP file is included, so you're able to adopt this design to your specific needs but also to examine which part goes where.

# BOM
To build this you'll need:
- an Orbiter  DDE V1.5
- up to 15 threaded inserts M3 x5.7mm
- a 30 mm fan (24V)
- a 50 x 15 mm blower fan (24V, part cooling)
- a couple of M3 screws in various length (8mm, 10mm, 16mm and 20mm)
- a couple of self tapping screws (2.2 x 6.5 mm, 2.2 x 9.5 mm, 2.9 x 6.5 mm)
- a micro switch (12.8 x 6.5  x 5.8mm) 
- a compression spring (5.5 x 20mm, 0.5-0.6 mm wire diameter)
- a cutter blade
- a standard size Servo (i.e. AMEWI)
- a couple of zip-ties
- a couple of wires

# Please Notice
The Filament-Cutter uses the same components as the ones I've published before. Hence, if you need to know how it works, visit the [SMuFF website](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/work-in-progress?authuser=0) for more articles on this item. 

The mounting holes for the blower fan are supposed to fit the standard Ender-3 blower fan.

Also, in order to run this DDE on the SMuFF, it'll need an firmware update to version 2.32.

SMuFF - DDE (Orbiter) mount with integrated Filament-Cutter for Ender-3

## Yet another DDE variation for the SMuFF...

This one utilizes the Orbiter Direct Drive Extruder V1.5. 
The most significant difference to the previous published BIQU-H2 version is, that the Filament-Cutter sits below the extruder and hence, the SMuFF isn't forced to purge the filament in the extruder in order to release the 2nd endstop switch.

Although this model is meant to fit the standard Ender-3 extruder, I've replaced the fan shroud with a smaller one that needs a 30 mm fan but also comes in a more compact size and offers the option to mount a BL-Touch or Tiny-Touch to it, as well as a 50x15 blower fan for a more sophisticated part cooling.

A decent BL-Touch bracket is included, the Tiny-Touch mounts without a bracket directly.

The STEP file is included, so you're able to adopt this design to your specific needs but also to examine which part goes where.

# BOM
To build this you'll need:
- an Orbiter  DDE V1.5
- up to 15 threaded inserts M3 x5.7mm
- a 30 mm fan (24V)
- a 50 x 15 mm blower fan (24V, part cooling)
- a couple of M3 screws in various length (8mm, 10mm, 16mm and 20mm)
- a couple of self tapping screws (2.2 x 6.5 mm, 2.2 x 9.5 mm, 2.9 x 6.5 mm)
- a micro switch (12.8 x 6.5  x 5.8mm) 
- a compression spring (5.5 x 20mm, 0.5-0.6 mm wire diameter)
- a cutter blade
- a standard size Servo (i.e. AMEWI)
- a couple of zip-ties
- a couple of wires

# Please Notice
The Filament-Cutter uses the same components as the ones I've published before. Hence, if you need to know how it works, visit the [SMuFF website](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/work-in-progress?authuser=0) for more articles on this item. 

The mounting holes for the blower fan are supposed to fit the standard Ender-3 blower fan.

Also, in order to run this DDE on the SMuFF, it'll need an firmware update to version 2.32.

Most of the Creality K1 printers are facing the dreaded **UNDER EXTRUSION** problem. I too faced the same.

After lots of tinkering I found out that the extruder motor is getting too hot while printing. Which in turn heats up the pressure plate of the moving extruder gear and deforms due to the filament pressure between the gears.

Solution to the problem is first you need to reduce the current (to 0.4 amps) of the motor by getting the root access. Then you need to print this thin barrier out of some high temp. material like ASA/ABS etc. I printed it with PETG as I didn't have any ASA/ABS in stock. So far It's working fine (after reducing current).

But if you don't have root access then you **must print** using high temp. material.

You can print it thicker if you want, but you'll have to replace the screws.

Creality K1 Extruder motor heat shield

K1 - ExtruderHeatSheild.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4724991.

# Yet another remix...
of my [Filament-Cutter](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650129). This one is explicitly meant to be used on a standard Ender-3-Pro (Creality) stock hotend.

**Please notice**: I'm using a MicroSwiss All-Metal kit (for better printing results) and the cutter was designed to match that. If you're still using a stock Creality hotend, you have to replace the fitting that screws on with some kind of collet.

Also: The spacer (the part that screws onto the carriage) will move your hotend about 17mm in Y-direction, so you may adjust your printbed size / offset accordingly.

I moved from the previously installed V6 hotend back to (more or less) stock hotend because of I felt the urge to reduce the length of the purged material (this is a drawback of using the Filament-Cutter). Due to the different sizes of hotends (and of course the slightly larger size of V1), I was able to reduce from about 200 mm down to 95 mm to avoid color bleeding and get nice color transitions ([here's a video on that](https://youtu.be/BZCdmnUz5Mw)).

So far, I'd say the Filament-Cutter is the right decision to use.
Although it wastes more filament because the cut-off remains in the heatsink/heatblock/nozzle until it gets purged out by the following filament, it makes tool swapping a lot less frightening (because of jams in the tube/heatbreak, which you have with bulged filament coming right out of the nozzle) and a lot more smooth and faster.

The BOM is mostly the same as in the Filament-Cutter V1 (except a couple of additional screws / bolts, which I'm sure you have lying around).
For the MicroSwiss All-Metal hotend you'll need a 23mm long PTFE tube into the cutter.

STEP file is included.

# UPDATE 1

Created a more stable junction between the Cutter and the Servo-Mount. You now need only one M3 x 30 mm bolt and nut to keep it in place.

# UPDATE 2

Made the Servo Mount a bit more stronger because the previous broke during operation due to the high forces.
I've also modded the Cutter base, which now is able to be combined with the 5-Way splitter I've designed. For those who don't use the splitter, there's an adapter for the standard M6 fitting included. Keep in mind: The adapter thread is left handed!


Filament-Cutter Ender-3 (Creality)

_Re-Uploaded model for better visualization..._

**This is...**
my latest addition for the SMuFF V6 as published [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4827853).

It's a Direct-Drive-Extruder mount for the BIQU-H2 extruder which also incorporates the Filament-Cutter as published [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4724991).
I've used it to update the SMuFF firmware for handling DDEs. 

More information about this project can be found [here](https://sites.google.com/view/the-smuff/work-in-progress?authuser=0#h.ssx9ayceh6f4) or join us on [Discord](https://discord.com/invite/BzZ3rBf).

Here's a [video](https://youtu.be/9xR9MkAh_Ww) where you can see this Thingi in action printing a dual color 3D Benchy.

The included STEP file contains all parts you see in the overview image. Use this to mod either the BIQU-H2 mount or the Filament-Cutter according to your needs.

**Please notice:** All credit for the BIQU-H2 model goes to maker [3DE2016](https://www.thingiverse.com/3de2016/designs), who did an excellent job creating and publishing this model, which can be found [here on Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4808811) as well. 


SMuFF - DDE (BIQU-H2) mount with integrated Filament-Cutter for Ender-3

I made this tool as a proof of concept. I was looking for a different method for the 2nd endstop on the [Filament-Cutter for LGX-Lite Extruder](https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/69552?source=mythangs), since the usual method (adding a switch to the tension lever) does not cut here.

So I decided to go with an optical sensor, which gets triggered by an encoder/flag wheel that is driven by one of the dual drive gears. This is the result and I quickly realized, it can also be used as an filament motion sensor.  I'm not using any filament motions sensors yet but I though it could be fun publishing it.

So, if you plan adding such an encoder to your extruder, feel free to give it a try and let me know the results.

**Please keep in mind:** I haven't tested this gadget on a real LGX-Lite and there might be an issue with the gear I've modeled. However the STEP file is included, so you can easily make some quick & dirty adjustments if needed.

Beside a couple of screws for mounting the optical sensor and the encoder itself to the LGX-Lite, you'll also need a flange bearing of type F623ZZ (ID: 3mm OD: 10mm height: 4mm), a M3 x16 bolt and a M3 (self locking) nut.

The encoder mount is split up into two parts for easier mounting. Attach the Encoder-Sensor-Mount part to the LGX-Lite first and bolt it down, then screw on the optical sensor. After that mount the Encoder-Gear-Mount (with the Encoder-Gear already mounted) and bolt that one down as well.

Here's a short video showing the device in action using a simple geared motor.

For using this gadget in Marlin, you'd have to recompile the firmware with these options enabled:
 
_#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM
#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR
_
For Klipper you'd need these settings:

__[filament_motion_sensor lgx_lite_encoder]
detection_length: _len_
extruder: extruder
switch_pin: _pin_
runout_gcode: FILAMENT_RUNOUT
__

Make sure you modify the detection_length and switch_pin accordingly.

**Credits**
Special credits go to Mad Hatman for the LGX-Lite model he has published on Grabcad. I had to make some modifications though, since the gears were not modeled very detailed (but I think that's mostly because it's based on the original Bondtech STEP file).

Filament-Encoder for LGX-Lite Extruder

this nozzle is for water cooling the shaper of the industrial extruder for extruding poly carbonate pipe 



nozel half1(optimized for printing).obj

This is a remix combining two other remixes of a planetary-geared filament guide.

I have a sealed box holding up to five commonly used filament spools at a time which feed out from the side and up to the printer which sits on top of the box. I also have more spools I store separately and use as-needed, which I mount on the standard spool holder attached to the top of the printer and feed downwards. To handle this I needed two guides, one for filament coming from above, and one for filament coming from below. Additionally, I have one of those cheap aftermarket dual gear extruders which raises up slightly from stock, so the upper roller had to be raised slightly.

The original design was uploaded by [FragrantAbyss](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3434928) on Thingiverse. This remix combines modifications to the support arm by [lennardrischen](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4766101) to make it longer for the dual gear extruder, and also modifications by [inheritthefire](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4796833) to mount a bearing lower for feeding filament from below the printer. To fit the two bearings next to each other I also modified the bearing to be slightly smaller on the outside.

Ender 3 Dual Direction Filament Guide

DUAL_GUIDE_ROLLER_SUPPORT_ARM.stl

I created this adapter to mount a 5015 to the E-fit direct drive extruder kit from Creality.

Prints with no supports and very little filament. Use the existing bolts in the kit to mount the adapter then use M3 bolts to mount the fan to the adapter.

This is tested and works but I am no fluid dynamics expert.

Show me yours if you print one!

@kwerkshop on Instagram

Creality E-Fit 5015 Cooling Fan Adapter

this nozzle is for water cooling the shaper of the industrial extruder for extruding poly carbonate pipe 

nozel half2(optimized for printing).obj

This STL is a component of the Hero Me Gen7 Printhead assembly for 3D printers.

**Hero Me Gen7 is a modular printhead platform for 3D printers with excellent part cooling and the most compatibility across printers, hotends, extruders, ABLs, and other components.**

 The Hero Me Gen7 is all about choice and personal preference. If you have been upgrading your 3D printer, you've made choices about what is important to you, Your choices are likely going to be different from everyone else. When choosing a hotend, extruder, and ABL combo (not to mention fans and accelerometers), where are you going to find a printhead platform that will accommodate all your selected components (which could be a rare combo), for your specific 3D printer AND provides part cooling that gives you great print results. **This is what the Hero Me Gen7 is all about!**

Think of the Hero Me platform as lego blocks for printheads, there are mounting parts for each component (hotend, extruder, fans, ABLs, etc.) that stack and mount to a core Base. Component specific mounting parts can be interchanged for another of the same type. So, should you change your component selection(s) in the future, you do not have to start over, you simple replace the single STL mount that is matched to the new component. There is no need to yet again go looking for a new set of mounting hardware that was not likely to have been designed to work with each other in the first place.

So to give you choice and fulfill your personal preferences in 3D printing, the Hero Me Gen7.3.2 now supports over 100 3D Printer models (plus clones), 46 Hotends, 34 Extruders (over 45 mount options), 17 ABL Sensors (34 mount options), 35 Part Cooling Duct options, 12 Cable Management options, 11 ADXL345 mounts, and 4 LED bar mounts (among many other options). Gen7.3.2 supports most of the popular 3D printers and components available. 

If you know your 3D printer model, hotend, fans, and optionally an extruder, ABL sensor, ADXL345 accelerometer (for Klipper), and any other options for your printhead assembly, you can scan through the Hero Me Gen7 Release 3.2 folder, or use the Thangs Advanced Search.  Be sure to set the creator filter to: ‘MediaMan3D’ then search for ‘HMG7’ which should bring up all the STLs. You can refine your search from there by component, brand, etc.

If you find that you have a 3D printer model or component that is not yet supported, send me information and preferably a STEP or STL (or link) if you know of one for the X carriage of that printer or the component and I will create a mount for it. Send to: MediaMan3D@gmail.com

If you want Hero Me documentation… The Hero Me Gen7.3.2 folder of STLs on Thangs is organized into sub-folders by component category, with sub—sub-folders for type and brand with well defined filenames to make it easy to find what you need. If you want documentation to help you select and assemble the Hero Me Gen7 for your specific 3D printer, you can get a membership plan here on Thangs.  You will get a detailed 56 page parts selection and illustrated assembly guide along with assembly videos, private Discord server access (with over 2,000 Hero Me users), technical support, and much more, You also get exclusive access to new STL releases 30 days before being posted to Thangs, and other STL libraries. Check out the membership plans here:  [https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d](https://thangs.com/designer/mediaman3d)

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