One of my more complicated 'from scratch' designs, this is a roller mill - or bottle roller - designed for mixing SLA resin without entraining large amounts of air.

The design is driven off a single motor, which provides both rotation and rocking motions to the bottle.

**Please note this is a STEP file of more than 100 unique parts, and I will not be uploading STLs.  If you're not able to import this file into a CAD package and export the STLs yourself, I would not recommend you attempt this project**

There is a lot of information to cover before attempting to build this, and the majority of it - including part numbers and quantities - is embedded in the CAD model.

What is not included is a circuit diagram for the motor speed and timing circuit, or the RPM meter circuit.  I will say that all point-to-point wiring is made with screw terminals on the devices themselves, and the connections are intuitive if you've done this kind of thing before.

**As this includes mains voltages inside the case, please exercise discretion and do not attempt if you are unfamiliar with electrical safety practices.**

Bottle Roller

Roller Assembly v67.step

Do you need a seriously **cheap** USB camera for remote machine monitoring or other low resolution tasks?  Have a look here.  This camera and lens combo cost me $4.81 and included free shipping.

The camera is an OV7675 module commonly used in laptops and other compact applications.  The resolution is 0.3MP (640x480), which is adequate for my need to monitor multiple (4 or more) machines, with all cameras streaming through a single RasPi 4.  

Yes, it's potato for sure, but I don't need more than that for my application.

BOM

Fisheye Lens, Qty 1 (Search for: High Quality Clip 180 Fish Eye Smartphone Professional Cinema Quality Wide Angle Lens Cell Phone)

Camera Module, Qty 1 (Search for: USB OV7675 Camera Module 66 Degree View USB Frees Driver Webcam 1/6.5" YUY2 Focal Adjustable)

Cheap CMOS Housing - Back, Qty 1
Cheap CMOS Housing - Front, Qty 1

M5x6x7 Heatset Insert, Qty 1
M2x10 round head tapping screw, Qty 2
M2x4 round head tapping screw, Qty 2

Assembly Notes

Install the M5 heatset insert from the front, into the enclosure back (see photo of the back of the enclosure, showing the insert installed from the opposite side)

While the plastic is still warm, run a 20mm M5 down the insert to form the threads behind the insert

M2x4 self tappers are used to hold the board down; M2x10 are used to attach the front plate to the back housing

The thread in the front plate is M18x1, and the lens is threaded M17x1.  Yes, it works fine

$5 USB Fisheye Camera

Cheap CMOS Housing - Back.3mf

This is a three part enclosure for a 5 inch AMOLED screen, Raspi 4, and X735 power control board with fan.  I am using it to run KlipperScreen as a frontend for simple activities on my print farm, but I would imagine it would be used for any number of alternate projects.

**NOTE: Please add a feature for your preferred method of getting power into the case.  There is ample room inside for LiPos, but you will need to provide a through hole and bulkhead fitting if you wish to power the device from a USB source.**

Bill of Materials (BOM)

Case Base (printed) x1
Screen Mount (printed) x1
Vented Lid (printed, no top or bottom layers, Grid infill, 8mm pitch) x1
Geekworm X735 power management board x1
Rasberry Pi 4 x1
5 inch display, AMOLED, 960x544, with touch, Waveshare 19299 or equivalent x1
Heatset inserts, M3x5mm Dia x 6 Length x4
M3x8 FHCS, Stainless preferred x4

Basic assembly instructions

Install two heatset inserts into the Case Base
Install two heatset inserts into the Screen Mount
Attach screen mount to 5 inch screen using M2.5 fasteners from the X735 kit.  Notch in frame indicates the bottom of the frame
Attach RPi4 to screen using threaded standoffs from X735 kit
Attach X735 to standoffs using M2.5 fasteners
Install Screen Mount to Case Base, using tab/slot feature to align
Install Vented Lid using 4 M3x8 FHCS; two into the Screen Mount & two into the Case Base.  M3 fasteners interface only to heatset inserts

KlipperScreen Enclosure

Case Base.3mf

I designed this case to hold a NodeMCU ESP8266 with an 0.96 OLED (SSD1306) display for a tVOC sensor (BME860), however the open volume behind the board could be used for any number of sensors

Printed with the largest flat surface on the buildplate, the model will require supports, however they are easy to remove through the air slots on the sides

The NodeMCU board attaches with four buttonhead M3x4 machine screws, and the lid attaches with four M2x8 pan head tapping screws

NodeMCU with SSD1306 OLED Case

Case.3mf

Enclosure for the Raspberry Pi 4 with a Geekworm X735 power management board

All required hardware is included with the X735 kit

Derived from stonedigger's work on an Rpi3 case (Thing 5459884)

Originally designed for an 0.4mm nozzle but also prints well with an 0.6mm

Raspi4 Case with X735 Board

X735_Pi4_V2_Bottom.stl

I decided I was tired of my CR-10 enclosure being dark all the time, so I rummaged up a 24V LED light bar and designed this mount for it.  

I have two different enclosures, with two different frame diameters, 16mm and 14.75mm.  I have included both versions in STL format and the STEP file for those wishing to modify the design for their own use.

I would suggest two of these mounts for each light bar.  The mounts incorporate a steel clip and fastener that is included with the light bar kit, and each mount uses one additional M3x25 SHCS and M3 nylon-insert locknut.

For a standard installation of one lightbar you would require the following:

Bill of Materials
- 12-24V LED Light Bar and Mounting Hardware (the mount was designed to fit one of the lights in this four pack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T8VG75B or equivalent), Quantity 1
- M3x25 SHCS (McMaster 91292A020 (sold qty 100) or equivalent), Quantity 2
- M3 Nylon-Insert Locknut (McMaster 93625A100 (sold qty 100) or equivalent), Quantity 2
- LED Strip Mount, printed, Quantity 2

Refer to the attached images to determine the assembly methods.

I chose to design this part for resin printing, using a toughened resin.  As I printed these on an mSLA printer, I cannot speak to the veracity of this part for FDM printing.  

If one chose to use an FDM I would suggest orienting the rod axis parallel with the printer Z axis, and print with supports.

LED Light Bar Mount For Round Rods

I kitbashed this HEPA + carbon air filter out of a couple of different source files in 2018, none of which I can remember the provenance of.  Let me know if parts of this look like your work and I'll be sure to add an attribution.

This uses a 24V blower from a MakerBot Rep2, however any common 50x50x15mm blower with the same bolt pattern will mount up just fine.

The Body, Lid and Blower Adapter glue together.  There is one Baffle in each side, and they should slide freely after installation.  Push them towards the top to redirect air coming in through the filters into the carbon column.  The blower mounts to the Adapter with long M2 bolts that tap directly into the Adapter plastic.

The HEPA filters are from the Roomba 800 and 900 series robotic vacuums and can be purchased online for $1 to $1.50 each.  This design uses two of them.

The activated charcoal that I use is "4x8 Activated Carbon - Virgin Coconut Shell Charcoal".  This material is manufactured specifically for vapor filtration and removing VOCs.  It's about $4.50 USD/pound and lasts an exceptionally long time.  I run seven printers with these filters and I'm still on my first 20 lb bag four years later.

This setup is great at mitigating both stinky FDM filaments (ABS, nylon, etc) and SLA resin printers as well.

Activated Carbon HEPA Filter

Filter_Body_x1.stl

I wanted to encapsulate everything I needed to print manually standing at the printer with a touchscreen, and upload files over wifi.  I built this idea around my cheapo TronXY X-1 to make a an easily portable unit.  This was the result.

This case has space to hold the stock TronXY 12V supply, a Mega2560 with RAMPS, an RPi 3B+ with a 3.5" touchscreen, an extra 40mm cooling fan, and an IEC socket with power switch.

The touchscreen used is a generic 3.5" LCD with the XPT2046 touch controller.  **This communicates through the GPIO pins not HDMI**.  The RPi is running OctoPrint with OctoDash as the touchscreen interface.

The IEC socket is an inexpensive, unfused model from a long time ago, so you may need to adjust the cutout to match your unit.

TronXY X1 Deluxe Case

X1_Case_Body.stl

This is an exact dimension-for-dimension copy of the wire clips that come with the Creality Ender 5+.  They're super handy, and do a great job of holding wires close to a 2020 extrusion by interfacing with the T-Slot.  I don't have enough of them for all my printers, so I whipped this up as a quick solution.

These clock in at ~ 1 gram of PLA per clip and take about 8 minutes each in a batch of ten.

Wire Management Clip

This is an exact dimension-for-dimension copy of the wire clips that come with the Creality Ender 5+.  They're super handy, and do a great job of holding wires close to a 2020 extrusion by interfacing with the T-Slot.  I don't have enough of them for all my printers, so I whipped this up as a quick solution.

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601225.

Three modifications I made to Adafruit's excellent heatset insert press:

* Top roller modified to use a 608 bearing.  This requires some very careful printing as the clearances are tight.  there is a 2mm circular channel for the string/monofilament to run in.  I did the 608 Pulley on a resin printer to get a better surface and tighter tolerances.  You must also flip the direction of engagement for the fasteners used to hold the 608 Top Idler to the idler-coupler (inserts now are set into the Top Idler and fasteners go through the idler-coupler, into the 608 Top Idler; see photo).

* Tri-Plate modified to use cap screws (SHCS) instead of flat head countersunk

* Modified the counterweight to accept standard US quarters.  Humorously enough, the weight of the quarters required is enough to buy the necessary mass of bearings

I have also included a v-slot wheel for 625ZZ bearings in the spirit of complete disclosure, as that is what is shown in the attached images.  I attempted to print these on my resin printer at 20µm layer height.  They were functional to some extent, however a machined component will provide a much (much) better experience.

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)

608 Bearing Idler - Adafruit Heatset Insert Press

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4716497.

This design interfaces only to my CR-10 v3 Filament Sensor Relocation Bracket: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4716470](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4716470)

This isn't a remix of __Biffo318__'s design, but its positioning and configuration was heavily influenced by their work on the __CR-10 v3 x-axis chain link__ which can be found at [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551763](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551763)

This design constitutes two printed interfaces that allow a pre-fabricated drag chain to be used on the x-axis travel of the CR-10 v3.  I believe the chain to be of the 10mm x 15mm variety, however I cannot be sure as it was originally salvaged out of the sliding door of a Ford minivan.  I was able to procure thirty-odd feet of this stuff for free a few years back and it has made its way into a number of different designs.  Hopefully this design is simplistic enough to allow it to be modified to your needs should you have a different cable chain geometry.

The 'hotend end' bolts to the filament sensor relocation bracket (Thing:4716470) via a single M3 SHCS.

The 'control end' requires an M3 heatset insert (M3x4mmx5mm) and M3 fastener, which bolts through one of the vacated extruder motor mounting holes.  I have opted to use another SHCS.

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)

CR-10 v3 X-axis Cable Chain

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:667301.

UPDATE: base4_fixed.STL includes extra material around the threaded region for the PTC fitting.  

Modified from Singh336's exemplary work, this remix:  

- Further encloses the filament  
- Reduces clearances around the idler bearing  
- Increases the force imparted by the spring on the idler lever  
- Realigns the idler lever for better contact with the filament  
- Adds a feature that can be tapped for a stock PTC fitting (M5x0.8)  
- Raises the filament entry above the idler lever for easier loading  

Also included is a flimsy adapter to allow the new cold end to be mounted in the stock position on an unmodified RoStock MAX V2 or on alextoff's slick Dual EZStruder Mount as shown in the photo.

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)

EZStruder modified for soft filaments & TPE

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4659679.

A modified version of Thomas' excellent 1/16 DIN enclosure (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3980806) lengthened to 140mm and with a modified faceplate.  The enclosure houses the PID controller, a timer and a 12V power supply.  

The PID is a ubiquitous REX C-100 clone with a set range of 0-400C and a single alarm output.  Note that the traditional DIN panel mounting ring cannot be used with this enclosure because... I forgot about it.  If time permits I'll mod the case to allow for it and upload the new version at some point.

The timer is an inexpensive PCB solution from [MPJA.com](https://www.mpja.com/Mini-Count-Down-Relay-Timer-1-999min/productinfo/34667+MI/), P/N 34667 MI, and allows for countdown times from 1 to 999 minutes.

The 12v supply is a random brick supply I had in my surplus rack and is used to power the timer and provide a low voltage source that the timer and PID use to trigger the SSR mounted inside the old controls volume within the oven itself.  Said SSR is cooled by the fan shown just above the enclosure.

The button stems for the timer are very small and I opted to print them on an Anycubic Photon at 50 micron layer height.  FDM/FFF may not be able to resolve them well enough to be functional but you are welcome to try.

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)

Oven Controller Box with PID and Timer

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3306391.

Mashup of a few different parts plus some adapter widgetry.  

Print one of each Thing File here and one of each of joint05a and joint05b from Thing 196372 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196372/files).

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)


Camera Mount for Creative Live Cam Sync HD 720

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806660.

Designed for those who can access a local IKEA.  I needed a large wire chase for my new desk and wanted to combine a cable bin to keep things tidy.

This design bolts a [ROMMA Cable Management Box](http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90308321/) to a [LINNMON Tabletop](http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10251352/) (or any 1.375"/34mm thick desktop) through a ~3 inch diameter hole cut with IKEA's handy $5 USD [FIXA Holesaw Set](http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20302332/).

I pulled the amazing threads used on this item off of [Thing 65922](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:65922), which I have used multiple times on different projects.  They're self supporting, lock exceptionally well and print quickly.  Kudos to [CreativeTools](https://www.thingiverse.com/CreativeTools/about) for the design.

Comments welcome.

3 inch Desk Grommet (Threaded)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1908515.

I needed a big spreader/squeegee to apply PVA release film to a huge (1000 x 2400 mm) 3D printer bed, so I bought a floor squeegee from HD and printed this handle to fit.  It's perfect!

Short Threaded Handle

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004360.

Simple sign to sideline solicitors.

No Solicitors Sign

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601214.

PHiAX's 86mm catfood lid remixed for a 66mm Purina Beyond can.

Cat Food Lid (66mm)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4716470.

After experiencing the awfulness of the CR-10 v2/v3 filament sensor location for myself, I opted to relocate the sensor onto the extruder carriage, immediately above the Titan direct drive.

This necessitated rerouting the filament sensor cabling to the carriage, at which point I opted to also create a cable chain for the extruder, see [Thing:4716497](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4716497).

I find this arrangement works quite well, with only a little bit of extra fiddling required to align the filament end for initial loading.  This caveat is that you will lose approximately 15mm of Z travel (max Z is no longer 400mm, it is now 385mm).

This design utilizes four brass M3 heatset inserts (4mm long) for the sensor mounting and an option to add two more M3 inserts for additional expansions.  If you opt to use the cable chain mount, it requires a fifth insert be installed on the left end of the bracket as viewed from the front of the machine when installed.  I have attached a photo with the insert locations marked in orange.  A sixth insert location is available for future expansion.

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)

CR-10 v3 Filament Sensor Relocation Bracket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:707701.

Modified E3D Dual Mount for the RoStock MAX V2; includes head clearance for all three M3 SHCS to mount/adjust 2nd extruder.  Also reworked "Mount 2" to include clearance for M3 nylocks.  

I'm thinking I'll do a V3 that incorporates M3 or 6-32 helicoils directly into the part.  

V2 parts have now been netfabbed.

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)

Dual E3D V6, Independently Height Adjustable Mount for Rostock Max V2 - Locknut Mod

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309035.

This adapter allows you to mount a cheap cellphone wide angle lens to a Creative 720 HD webcam.  

I have included before and after photos with the camera mounted on my [Camera Mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3306391) to show the difference in field of view.  I can now see the entire print be without having to mount the camera another 100mm above the bed.  

__**I have no confirmation that this particular model works, but the discontinued x0.4 Wide Angle lens I used appears very similar to the following item:**__

https://www.amazon.com/AMIR-180%C2%B0Fisheye-Screwed-Together-Smartphones/dp/B0179JX8GC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1545588164&sr=8-4&keywords=cellphone+lens

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)

Wide Angle Lens Adapter for Creative Live Cam Sync HD 720

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1291541.

I'm building a massive 3D printer (~41,000 cubic inches/670 liters) out of 40 series (metric) 8020 extrusion and I needed some wire management accessories.  I remixed this from a design destined for 10 Series service and added a whole mess of different 'bits' that I needed to round out the selection.

80/20 Extrusion 40 Series (Metric) Wire Management Series

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4716512.

After relocating the filament sensor with [Thing:4716497](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4716497) I wanted to raise the spool to maximize the potential printing height.  Since I was no longer using the filament sensor bracket I opted to make this interface block to go between the stock spool bracket and the filament bracket.  

This adds 35mm between the brackets, but could easily be modified to provide more or less height should you choose to do so.

This design makes use of two M4 SHCS fasteners, two M4 nuts, and four M3 heatset inserts.

I don't know about your machine, but Creality sent me some M4 screws that were too long to properly tighten the brackets against the 2020 extrusion, so I also replaced the M4s that interface to the extrusion T-nuts.

CR-10 v3 Spool Holder Riser Block

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4540275.

Adafruit's RPi Zero case with the GPIO header opening sealed off.

Shown here as printed on the Anycubic Photon in Clear Eco Resin at 50 micron layer height.

Adafruit RPi Zero Case - Solid Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3257696.

Replacement for a lost retention spring clip on a Foredom H.30 Handpiece, as I don't want to pay $9 to ship a $1 part.

Designed to be printed in PLA.

You still need the HP48-4 Catch Ball or equivalent.

Foredom Ring (Replacement for Foredom HP43 Sheath Spring Clip)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3594897.

I had some clearance issues with the original version of this nut and couldn't get it to turn a full 90 degrees once inserted into the slot.  To be fair, it's more than likely an issue with the 40mm extrusion I've recycled off of the biggest POS printer I've ever had the misfortune to work on, a Leapfrog Creatr HS.

In the process of tweaking the shape of the part I thought I'd give it a go with some heatset inserts, and this was the result.  Inserts are an M4x6mm, and I happened to use some mold-in style inserts because that's what I had on hand.  YMMV with legit heatsets.

40 Series T Nut, M4 Heatset Insert

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4340246.

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:726700

Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=726700



My Customized Hex Bit Holder100 Hex Bit Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2830186.

Replacement seat bolt cover for a [Kohler K-4888-0] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-Cachet-LED-Nightlight-Elongated-Quiet-Closed-Front-Toilet-Seat-in-White-K-4888-0/204840465)

Yes, I paid $50 for a toilet seat.

Toilet Bolt Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3111936.

This is a barrel extension/mod that lets you press a brass barrel for standard size Nerf darts into a Bigshot Nerf pistol.  The new brass barrel runs from the end of the print through the length of the gun barrel and is sealed at the bottom.  

The end of the brass barrel is wrapped with electrical tape to form an airtight seal into the original dart barrel, and if you're careful you can size the tape wrapping to make the barrel mod removable.

There's some other trimming done to the gun as you can see in the photo, however there are no required modifications to make the extended barrel or printed barrel mod fit.

If you found this Thing useful and you'd like to contribute to the development of future Things, you can buy me a coffee at [https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1](https://ko-fi.com/wcarver1)

BigShot Barrel Mod

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